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Results for Skeleton Dial

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Skeleton Dial

A dial (or watch) cut away to expose the movement. 18th-century French origin.

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont with a Lacquered Case SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont with a Lacquered Case

While Cartier has unveiled fancier and more complex watches at W&W; 2022, one of its standout new launches is amongst the more affordable, at least in steel. The Santos-Dumont Large Model in lacquer is unusual and interesting; very different from any recent Cartier yet clearly a product of the Parisian jeweller. Available in steel, gold, or platinum, the new Santos-Dumont has its case and bezel finished with coloured lacquer, while the dial has a concentric cube pattern. Though the lacquered case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a similar decoration, it is unique amongst Cartier’s current line up. Initial thoughts The new Santos-Dumont is inspired by a 1920s watch with a lacquer bezel, giving it an unsurprising vintage vibe, yet it is entirely original. With its square bezel and Roman numerals, it is clearly a Cartier Santos, but it stands apart from its more mundane counterparts. I like everything about it, though I would have preferred it in the Extra-Large size, rather than the Large as it is now. Of the three versions, the steel model has the strongest vintage vibes with its black lacquer. The platinum model is striking and almost over the top in its colour, while the rose gold version lacks contrast. In steel with black lacquer While the platinum and gold versions are limited edition – as would be expected for such an unusual watch – the steel version is regular production, which is both unexpected and welcome news. And the watch is fairly priced in all its v...

Cartier Introduces the Masse Mystérieuse SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Mar 30, 2022

Cartier Introduces the Masse Mystérieuse

Cartier’s wide-ranging new launches at Watches & Wonders 2022 naturally encompasses new takes on its historical designs, including the Tank Chinoise and lacquered Santos-Dumont. But its most extraordinary creation stands apart from the brand’s contemporary timepieces. The Masse Mystérieuse is essentially a floating movement within an oscillating weight. As the weight oscillates around the central axis of the dial, it winds the mainspring contained within itself. Initial thoughts Cartier abandoned its once ambitious push into highly complicated watches when its current chief executive Cyrille Vigneron took charge in 2016. Mr Vigneron has stated publicly on several occasions that Cartier should not stray from its historical strength in simple, elegant watches in unusual forms. So the Masse Mystérieuse is definitely atypical, but that doesn’t take away from its fascinating mechanics. The complexity and creativity of its mechanics bring to mind an earlier era of Cartier watchmaking. While Cartier states that the Masse Mystérieuse was eight years in the making, it doesn’t mention who was responsible for the idea. It goes without saying that is was Carole Forestier-Kasapi, the former head of development at Cartier’s manufacture who now has the same role at TAG Heuer. The Masse Mystérieuse is instantly recognisable as her work, appearing to be evolved from the Astrotourbillon. Ingenious as it is, the Masse Mystérieuse is also similar to Ms Forestier-Kasapi’s pa...

INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity Time+Tide
Longines Elegant Collection Mar 28, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity

Longines is a brand that knows how to use their heritage, which you would expect from the company with the world’s oldest active registered trademark in the iconic winged hourglass. Even when a design is completely new and modern, their logo on the dial is just instantly tied to a lineage of watches that seems … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Introduces the Series 8 870 First Anniversary SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 24, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Series 8 870 First Anniversary

Not long after Citizen unveiled the Caliber 0200 in early 2021, it followed up with an affordable alternative, the Series 8 870. Resembling its bigger brother with an integrated bracelet, the Series 8 outperforms in its price segment. And just as Citizen unveils a limited edition Caliber 0200 in shades of grey, it is also taking the covers off the Series 8 870 First Anniversary Limited Edition, which features an all-black case matched with a carbon-composite dial. Initial thoughts While the standard 870 has excellent fit and finishing considering the price, it is available with just two dial options – black or silver – that are pretty plain, especially when bold textures or colours are all the rage. The new 870 caters to current fashions, but still remains low-key in a manner that’s typical of Citizen’s higher-end watches. With its cleaner look, the all-black case is an improvement from the two-tone standard model, while the carbon composite dial adds a degree of interest that is only obvious up close. It’s also an unusual take on the patterned dial, which is typically stamped. Unlike the standard model, this has a see-through back. The movement has been made a little more interesting with a gilded rotor, which stands out even more than usual as the case is entirely black. In fact, the gilded rotor is the sole bit of colour on the watch, but one that will only be known to the owner. Arguably the only shortcoming of the new 870 is the lack of a bracelet. Th...

Citizen Introduces the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armor” SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 23, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armor”

A year ago, Citizen debuted its first all new, high-end mechanical watch in decades, The Citizen Caliber 0200. A wristwatch par excellence, the Caliber 0200 was so good that it was one of our tops watches of 2021. Now Citizen is following up with the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armour”, the first limited edition of the model that’s available globally. Topped with a black ceramic bezel and textured dial, the samurai-inspired Caliber 0200 has a low-key aesthetic that still distinguishes it from the all-steel models. Initial thoughts Even though production hasn’t yet caught up with demand – there’s still a waiting list for the watch – the Caliber 0200 is still a niche product, just because it is a high-end, mechanical offering from a brand better known for its solar-powered or quartz watches, and mostly affordable ones at that. So a limited edition makes sense, since the small run will boost desirability and create buzz worldwide (Citizen did launch a 50-piece limited edition last year that was sold only in Japan). That said, the new edition is still very much a restrained design that’s almost monochromatic. It’ll be one of those watches that are recognised only by those in the know. Interestingly, both the new limited edition and the standard model stick to the same palette – grey, silver, and black – with the difference between the two being the quantity and intensity of each colour. On the limited edition, black becomes the dominant colour thanks to the ...

LIVE PICS: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra is the new thinnest mechanical watch in the world at 1.8mm Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Mar 21, 2022

LIVE PICS: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra is the new thinnest mechanical watch in the world at 1.8mm

With a marketplace that thrives on the emotional connection between consumer and brand heritage, anniversary milestones have become a prominent moment for manufacturers to celebrate their creations. Typically we see a storied reference executed in limited numbers, with a new special dial, and, perhaps, a precious case metal, with a commemorative caseback or winding rotor. … ContinuedThe post LIVE PICS: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra is the new thinnest mechanical watch in the world at 1.8mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: the new The Longines Legend Diver in Gray Deployant
Longines Legend Diver Mar 19, 2022

Review: the new The Longines Legend Diver in Gray

Longines have often produced interesting pieces for its Heritage collection, and the new Legend Diver is no exception. The new gray colored dial comes as an addition to the growing colorways namely blue, beige and burgundy of the model. It gives fans of the LLD more options to choose from, without deviating from the iconic design of the watch. The watch is priced at S$3,590.00.

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Mar 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green

Jaeger-LeCoultre are seemingly incapable of producing a watch that doesn’t melt the hearts and wallets of watch enthusiasts worldwide, as they have proven again with the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in a glowing green. The watch comes in three dial colours with matching straps including deep blue and luscious burgundy, but this green machine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” on Loupe This [Updated with Result] SJX Watches
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” Mar 13, 2022

Auction Watch: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]

A limited edition launched at the end of 2021, the Zenith Chronometer Revival “Poker Chip” was the result of a collaboration between our founder and the watchmakers in Le Locle. One of them just popped up for sale at online auctioneer Loupe This – the first example to go under the hammer. The 200 pieces sold out at launch, making this a perfect opportunity for anyone who missed out last year. If the funky dial appears familiar, that’s because the Poker Chip reimagines the G383, one of the standout designs from the first references of the El Primero. While the G383 had a lavish, gold-on-black palette, the Poker Chip is entirely contemporary. Its dial is generously “lumed” – even the strap glows in the dark – bringing it to life at night, with the aesthetic alluding to the disco era of 1960s and 1970s when the G383 was born. [Update March 17, 2022: The Poker Chip sold for US$16,500 including fees on Loupe This.] The case is a micro-blasted titanium coated in DLC, which complements the military-esque dial. Notably the Poker Chip was the first – and remains the only – classic, 38 mm El Primero with a titanium case. Continuing the blend of new and old, the movement is the original El Primero 400 that’s almost identical to the 1969 original. As it is being phased out, this movement was chosen instead of the latest-generation El Primero 3600 (which has a lightning seconds), making the Poker Chip one of the last watches with the landmark calibre. Accompani...

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5057G “Cortina Mar 10, 2022

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”

Conceived for the jubilee of Singapore-based retailer Cortina Watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G-010 is a throwback to the nineties in both size and size, but given a contemporary flavour with a dial in smoked grey. In fact, it is a remake of the original model, the ref. 5057R that was in rose gold. Interestingly, the reference was specifically created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary in 1997, giving the ref. 5057 the distinction of being a reference unique to a retailer. Initial thoughts Though it’s small by modern standards – it’s a bit over 36 mm in diameter – the ref. 5057G instantly stands out with its nineties style. The triple-row hobnail bezel and straight lugs instantly evoke Patek Philippe’s aesthetic of that decade. They set the ref. 5057G apart from the brand’s current offerings that have a more modern style. I like Patek Philippe’s style of that era, so I like the ref. 5057G. With the wide hobnail bezel, it’s a bit fancier than it should be, but that’s the appeal. And the bezel is the very feature that gives the watch presence. It catches the light well and is essentially “bling” for an otherwise conservative design. At the same time, the ref. 5057G is more attractive than the original model in rose gold, which lacked contrast due to its white-on-rose gold palette. By today’s standards the original is old fashioned. The ref. 5057R of 1997 that was created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary and also a limited edition of 100 wat...

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Mar 2, 2022

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby

Unveiled last year as part of Hermes’ annual collection of metiers d’art watches, the Arceau Space Derby is typical Hermes with its equestrian motif, but also strikingly different since the dial depicts a jockey riding a robot horse past planets and stars. The Space Derby is actually a pair of watches, a smaller one for ladies with the dial in pink opaline glass, and a larger model for men with an aventurine glass dial that is detailed below. But both have a similar motif on the dial that was taken from an Hermes scarf designed by French filmmaker and cartoonist Ugo Bienvenu. The larger, 41 mm Space Derby Initial thoughts Hermes adapts many of its most famous scarves for metiers d’art watches. Most of the resulting dials are whimsical and subtle in a manner typical of the brand. And Hermes does more of such watches, both in terms of range as well as number, than its immediate rivals Louis Vuitton and Chanel. The diversity of its offerings with artisanal dials is impressive in both style and technique – though horses, big cats, and birds are recurring themes – but even so the Space Derby is unique. While the theme of the Space Derby is still equestrian, it is has a pop art aspect that sets it apart from the usual metiers d’art fare from Hermes. So it’s still recognisably an Hermes watches, but a bit more funky and very much different. But the Space Derby is more than just a fancy dial. As is increasingly the case with fashion and leather goods brands, it is eq...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SLA055J1 Save The Ocean Limited Edition Time+Tide
Seiko SLA055J1 Save Feb 28, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SLA055J1 Save The Ocean Limited Edition

Seiko’s Save The Ocean series has been a favourite among the brand’s fans for years, with the charitable contributions and environmental associations delivering a host of fun new dial variations of established watches. While those Save The Ocean editions have definitely been a great option for anyone looking for something a little more unique straight … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SLA055J1 Save The Ocean Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Feb 26, 2022

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray”

One of the four original models that Nomos launched as its inaugural collection in 1992, the Tangente is the brand’s longest-running model, having grown both literally and metaphorically – the case has expanded from a tiny 35 mm to today’s 41 mm, while the line has grown to include dozens of models. Now the Glashütte watchmaker has just given the automatic model an update to create the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” with a restrained dial that has a subtly sparkling grained finish and a case available in either 35 mm or 39 mm. Initial thoughts Despite being a simple iteration of an existing model, the Platinum Gray is a pleasing addition to the range. The highlight is the elegant dial, which calls to mind another watch made in Nomos’ hometown, the platinum Lange 1 nicknamed “Stealth” for its silver-on-silver palette. But the Tangente is clearly different – and far more affordable – as it looks less formal with its large Arabic numerals (and ironically the typography was inspired by vintage Lange wristwatches). Like other recent Nomos watches, the Platinum Gray is a variation on a theme – essentially just a new dial – which makes it repetitive. The lack of innovation or novelty can leave Nomos feeling unexciting at times, though the strong design identity and affordability of the brand remains appealing, as does its affordability. With a price tag that starts at US$3,070 and rises to US$3,780 depending on the case size and back, the Platinum ...

HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style Time+Tide
Nomos Tangente neomatik platinum grey Feb 24, 2022

HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style

Synonymous with high quality and original design, NOMOS serves up an update to one of their most emphatically Bauhaus designs. This pairing of Tangente models showcases the new platinum grey dial colour, which adds welcome variety to the line-up of mostly white and blue offerings thus far. Tangente – Bauhaus personified Famously conceived by Walter … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: A Vulcain Cricket With Presidential (or Vice-Presidential?) Provenance Hodinkee
Vulcain Feb 22, 2022

In-Depth: A Vulcain Cricket With Presidential (or Vice-Presidential?) Provenance

You may know the Vulcain Cricket as the watch worn by several US Presidents, but today Eric takes us deep into the background of the piece and shows us one incredibly rare watch - a 1950s Vulcain Cricket complete with the Presidential Seal printed right on the dial. This you do not see every day, people. Click on for a really detailed look at the Cricket, plus an examination of this very special piece.

More compact, thinner and “time only” – the Hublot Big Bang Integral in 40mm Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Feb 22, 2022

More compact, thinner and “time only” – the Hublot Big Bang Integral in 40mm

The Hublot Integral, as its name suggests, has been a core representation of the sports-watch brand for quite some time now. It’s seen its fair share of evolutions in regards to case materials and colours, but it has always been found with its high-tech skeletonised dial and UNICO flyback chronograph movement, with the exception of … ContinuedThe post More compact, thinner and “time only” – the Hublot Big Bang Integral in 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary DLC Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Feb 20, 2022

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary DLC

With the introduction of the new TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Chronograph 60th Anniversary Silver dial, the brand bought back a classic design to one of its most storied lines. This alone would have been enough for TAG Heuer fans. However, they didn’t stop there. Instead, they doubled down on the design to give us … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary DLC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chinese Artisans Team Up Under the Aegis of Celadon SJX Watches
Feb 17, 2022

Chinese Artisans Team Up Under the Aegis of Celadon

Having commissioned a series of double-crown, cloisonné world time wristwatches from Andersen Genève, Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee now turns to Chinese artisans for his latest collaborative project. The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century is the work of AHCI member Lin Yong Hua and Xiong Songtao, a third-generation enameller who created the cloisonné dial. Initial thoughts The watchmakers are proficient at making – and marketing – métiers d’art, but Chinese watchmakers are fairly new entrants to the high-end of this field, making the Century an unusual offering. The Century is an entirely different animal from the low-end watches that are often associated with the made-in-China label. Both in terms of the dial and movement, the Century takes things to another level, while possessing a refined, clean style. The entire dial is cloisonné enamel comprised of an impressive amount of gold wire to form the intricate motif. In fact, the fine cloisonné work resembles brush strokes from afar. It’s certainly appears to be top class work in both complexity and quality. And the movement is comparable in quality, which is unsurprising since it was developed by Mr Lin, who is best known for his quirky, hand-made wristwatches. The finishing is excellent, as evidenced by the rounded bevelling on the three-quarter plate. But while the Century does well in intrinsic quality, it seems to lack identity. While the watch is well designed and finely made – especially con...

Oris Aquis Sun Wukong Artist Edition: Creating An Uproar (In Heaven) Quill & Pad
Oris Aquis Sun Wukong Artist Feb 15, 2022

Oris Aquis Sun Wukong Artist Edition: Creating An Uproar (In Heaven)

Fantasy, high artistry, and solid watchmaking whimsically coalesce in Oris’s limited edition Sun Wukong Artist Edition, the just-introduced timepiece inspired by the Chinese animated film 'The Monkey King: Uproar in Heaven.' And in a novel twist for this usually affordably priced brand, the dial presents hand-rendered cloisonné enamel, an art form used by Oris for the first time.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 15, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial”

Already “fool-proof” as complicated watches go, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar has just been given a stylish facelift, resulting in a pair of watches bearing the signature smoked blue dial. The first of the two is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue that is almost identical to its predecessor but even more minimalist with a barely-there logo in transparent lacquer. But the headline model is surely the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, which has a whimsical user guide on the dial. The Tutorial (left) and the Funky Blue Initial thoughts I like the Tutorial because it has an ingenious movement and a sense of humour. Though the dial is the only element that’s different with the Tutorial, it is certainly an improved watch than its predecessor, simply because it perfectly encapsulates the quirkiness that defines H. Moser & Cie. The dial is so obvious that the watch really does stand out – it is certainly s a conversation piece. But it is the juxtaposition of the tongue-in-cheek schematics on the dial and the serious mechanics underneath gives the watch an amusing, original character. Perhaps only the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker that can pull this off without looking silly, given its technical competence and humorous spirit. That said, the “cheat sheet” dial is entirely practical, as it helps with both adjusting and reading the calendar – somewhat ironically since the Moser perpetual calendar mechanism is one of the most fuss free on the ma...

With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711 across Feb 13, 2022

With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne

I know that 5711 Nautilus talk is getting a bit old. Run ending green dials, Tiffany blue dial madness, $6.5m dollar bids at auction etc. But now it really is gone. Done. The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711, across all metals, have been removed from the catalogue. While this discontinuation has skyrocketed the secondary premiums … ContinuedThe post With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.