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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet used Oct 30, 2022

VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision

It’s well-known that between 1975 and 1985, the Swiss watch industry collapsed and its chances of survival looked slim. Many manufacturers went bust or were forced to join larger conglomerates. The primary cause of the disruption was, of course, the innovation of electronic quartz movements. On Christmas day, 1969, Seiko released the Astron, the first-ever … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits Oct 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size

There’s really nothing else like the look of a Panerai, such is its visual singularity. A long-time favourite of Hollywood (and real-life) tough guys, it’s a legend among those whose default wristwear leans hard into “bold statement”. In fact, I’d say it’s nearly as recognisable as a Submariner, if less ubiquitous, and frankly, one of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina PAM01501 “Kids Horizon” SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Oct 24, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina PAM01501 “Kids Horizon”

Historically a maker of military dive watches, Panerai has since evolved into a maker of distinctively-styled sports watches encompassing complications and precious metal cases. The watchmaker has just revealed an all-gold version of its trademark dive watch as a unique piece conceived for a good cause and a special occasion, the Luminor Marina Automatic PAM01501. Engraved to indicate it’s a one-off creation, something Panerai rarely does, the PAM01501 will go under the hammer during the upcoming charity gala dinner for Kidz Horizon Appeal, a Singapore-based charity that funds medical treatment for children from disadvantaged backgrounds, which will take place on October 29, 2022. The PAM01501 is engraved with “1/1” on the back Initial thoughts The PAM01501 is a metallic olive green – certainly a familiar colour. But keep in mind Panerai was one of the first brand to utilise green as a dial colour, most famously for the Submersible Bronzo a decade ago. This happened well before the current fad for green dials, so Panerai is sticking to historical precedent rather than jumping on the bandwagon. In fact, the green dial and rose gold case brings to mind the original Bronzo, which had a similar palette (before it developed a patina). But the crucial point is that the PAM01501 distinguishes itself by being a unique piece, and one for a good cause no less. For the kids Founded in 2004, Kidz Horizon Appeal (KHA) is a Singapore charity that supports children with chroni...

Interview: Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director at TAG Heuer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Oct 20, 2022

Interview: Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director at TAG Heuer

A Briton who has been the Heritage Director at TAG Heuer since March 2021, Nicholas Biebuyck is in charge of the brand’s museum and archives. Like his peers at other brands, Mr Biebuyck’s role goes beyond historical papers and vintage watches. He participates in product development and marketing, while being a brand ambassador, especially in bringing the brand to enthusiasts and collectors. But Mr Biebuyck also experienced a swathe of the watch industry prior to his role at TAG Heuer. He was previously a watch specialist at Bonhams and then Christie’s before joining Blackbird Watch Manual, a specialist magazine based in Hong Kong. Mr Biebuyck, who now lives in Switzerland with his family, also gained an insight into the art of managing clients with earlier stints as a “Genius” in an Apple Store and then marketing private-jet charters in Africa. The hand-finished movement in the one-off Monaco Only Watch 2021, a hint of where TAG Heuer might be headed And so Mr Biebuyck was wearing several hats when he was in Singapore recently during the Formula 1 Grand Prix weekend, when TAG Heuer staged an exhibition dedicated to its history in motorsports. We got the opportunity to quiz him on several topics, including where TAG Heuer is headed and how the brand balances its glamorous motorsports history with its avant-garde innovation. And we also gain his thoughts on the vintage Heuer market, especially after the high watermark of the Heuer thematic auction in 2017. SJX: ...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution Time+Tide
Maen Oct 17, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution

The concept of evolution over revolution is more than a catchy phrase, it also shows the dedication that a company has to perfecting a concept. Between the Manhattan, the Skymaster and the Hudson, Maen are a brand of structure and refinement. No detail goes unconsidered, and the result is something both charming and holistic. The … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 17, 2022

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...

VIDEO: TAG Heuer rev up to pay tribute to the first Porsche Carrera Time+Tide
TAG Heuer rev up Oct 5, 2022

VIDEO: TAG Heuer rev up to pay tribute to the first Porsche Carrera

TAG Heuer and Porsche have been on a high-octane roll since their partnership began last year, releasing collaborative models left, right and centre. The brand new TAG Heuer 911 Carrera R.S. 2.7 goes the only direction not yet explored – up. Celebrating the first 911 model to bear the iconic Carrera name, TAG Heuer created … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer rev up to pay tribute to the first Porsche Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We glow with the flow, but is lume really necessary? Time+Tide
Oct 5, 2022

We glow with the flow, but is lume really necessary?

Radium was discovered by Marie Curie in 1898, and it was already showing up on the dials of wristwatches by the early 1900s. This goes to show how intertwined the idea of luminous markings and watchmaking really are, as the industry has been a constant point of innovation for the technology. From the dark past … ContinuedThe post We glow with the flow, but is lume really necessary? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How I managed to buy the MoonSwatch full set without paying one cent over the retail price Time+Tide
Sep 30, 2022

How I managed to buy the MoonSwatch full set without paying one cent over the retail price

Ronald Chew (aka Horologym) is a watch collector based in Singapore. But he’s also one of the few people in the world who has managed to beat the queues and the flippers to assemble a complete set of the MoonSwatch. What makes this achievement even more impressive is that Ronald didn’t spend big on the … ContinuedThe post How I managed to buy the MoonSwatch full set without paying one cent over the retail price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why would anyone put a dive watch on a leather/synthetic hybrid strap? Time+Tide
Sep 19, 2022

Why would anyone put a dive watch on a leather/synthetic hybrid strap?

The debate has raged on for years over putting dive watches on leather straps. It’s a fairly straight-forward argument for and against, with compelling reasonings on both sides. It’s true that having a leather strap goes against the subaquatic purposes that a dive watch is built for, but it’s also true that people rarely even … ContinuedThe post Why would anyone put a dive watch on a leather/synthetic hybrid strap? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in green Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Sep 17, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in green

The world of feminine watches definitely draws the short straw more than it should, but the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One is finally now available in what could be considered the new blue - a dark emerald green. The best way to describe the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in this new verdant guise would be “eye-catching”, with every … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else Time+Tide
Cartier Tank better than anyone Sep 3, 2022

Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else

The Cartier Tank is hardly a watch lacking in high-profile endorsements. From Andy Warhol to Mohammad Ali and Fred Astaire to Steve McQueen, many great men have fallen for its square-jawed linearity, Roman numerals and cabochon crown that looks like an erotic police siren. But, let’s face it, the bad guys are always more interesting. … ContinuedThe post Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret take on Swiss giants Time+Tide
Aug 22, 2022

Movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret take on Swiss giants

I’m fairly certain that the E, T, A, 2, 8 and 4 keys on my keyboard have faded more than others. Despite their claims of no longer supplying off-the-shelf movements, ETA still has a significant stronghold on Swiss movement manufacture, partly due to supplying the Swatch Group. This makes it incredibly difficult for any newcomers … ContinuedThe post Movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret take on Swiss giants appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko Thailand makes the world green with envy, British survey reveals why people truly wear watches Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Thailand makes Aug 5, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko Thailand makes the world green with envy, British survey reveals why people truly wear watches

Welcome to the Friday Wind Down. Let’s dig into some of the horological headlines of the week! Grand Seiko regional limited editions cause some of the greatest amount of FOMO in the collecting community, often producing really striking and distinct creations that people want but, due to the region they live in, cannot buy. The … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko Thailand makes the world green with envy, British survey reveals why people truly wear watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tea for two, plus you? Killing Time podcast serves fresh flavours after lots of whiskey and watches Time+Tide
Jul 25, 2022

Tea for two, plus you? Killing Time podcast serves fresh flavours after lots of whiskey and watches

It is no secret that the watch community and industry is a rather male-dominated space. With people of all genders, however, becoming more and more familiar with the world of watches there is a hunger to hear from new voices and perspectives. Most watch coverage is rooted in the male gaze, reviews and verdicts stemming … ContinuedThe post Tea for two, plus you? Killing Time podcast serves fresh flavours after lots of whiskey and watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole is the way to do a vintage reissue Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Orange Diver Jul 13, 2022

The Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole is the way to do a vintage reissue

Brands have always taken plentiful inspiration from their back catalogue – just look at some of the biggest recent releases. There are two ways to go about this. You either take subtle cues from a past model (think TAG Heuer Orange Diver in reference to ref. 844), or you go the way of the Rado … ContinuedThe post The Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole is the way to do a vintage reissue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin boutique Jul 8, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron

Hello everyone - Borna here! Thank you to Zach for letting me hijack this portion of the FWD. Last night, through the joint efforts of the Time+Tide Club and the Vacheron Constantin boutique in Melbourne, two dozen of our club members squeezed into the cosy store. Chit-chat was had before a presentation by Warren Ho, boutique … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Behind The Lens: Beat Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jun 25, 2022

Behind The Lens: Beat Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon – Reprise

In GaryG's view, every successful independent watchmaker has elements of a “house style” that may attract some buyers and put off others, but nonetheless set them apart. And, at the highest level, this style goes beyond “branding” to become an expression of the personality and artistic vision of the creator. Beat Haldimann and his small team distinguish themselves by focusing on technical virtuosity of the highest order as typified by the Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon.