33,645 articles · 3,716 videos found · page 156 of 1246
Monochrome
It’s easy to almost exclusively think about Longines’ Heritage or Spirit models, for them to be visually attractive, vintage-inspired models with a lot of arguments for a seasoned crowd. Recent watches, such as the Ultra-Chron Classic, the Spirit Pilot Flyback or the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, have somehow stolen the show. There’s (much) more […]
Worn & Wound
The great paradox of many brands being so good at what they do is that they’re often so technically precise they lose a bit of personality in the process. Somehow, there’s a trade-off that many watch brands make in striving for the best, only to just miss the mark when it comes to anchoring their product to anything beyond technical specs, brand recognition, and the (oftentimes) half-hearted attempts to jump on a trend. We have, in many ways, become accustomed to this middling way in which watchmakers (and the same can be said for fashion brands and penmakers, truth be told). We have grown used to a sanitized, diluted version of personality for the sake of quarterly targets and minimizing social media backlash. It has, in effect, caused a chilling effect in risk-taking, in humor, in anything new beyond a different dial color here or a new steel bracelet there. It was with this sort of cynicism in mind that I was pleasantly surprised to see the latest release between Studio Underd0g and Massena LAB: the 03SERIES Champagne & Caviar. Finally!, I thought, scrolling through the photos, now this is a watch with personality. And then, of course, my second thought: if it isn’t actually made in the Champagne region of France, should it technically be called Sparkling Wine & Caviar? I’ll leave the purists among us in the comments to weigh in. The two collaborators couldn’t have been better suited for one another in partnering together on a release that’s as cheeky as it ...
Monochrome
In 2009, A. Lange & Söhne unveiled a timepiece unlike any other in the brand’s collection – past or post-resurrection. With no hands and a digital display powered by a mechanical heart, the Zeitwerk, translated from German as “time machine”, was the first mechanical wristwatch to feature a jumping digital display for hours and minutes. […]
Hodinkee
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
Hodinkee
On the eve of Phillips' auction to sell a steel Patek Philippe 1518, a select group of experts, some competitors, occasional business partners, and veteran collectors discuss a shared passion for the historic reference and brand.
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Teddy Baldassarre
In the wild world of watches, the words “affordable” and “complicated” are most often mutually exclusive. The more complicated a piece is, I think, the more we all brace ourselves to expect the correlation of a dramatic surge in price. It’s par for the course. But in recent years, there have been some watchmakers out there that have dared to do the unexpected, to bring high complications down to the realm of mortal purchasing power. As always, measuring affordability remains a personal conundrum, but there is no denying that there are now options for perpetual calendars, jump hours, and the like that are now paired with a more easily digestible price tag. In today’s guide, I’m tipping my hat to the various watch brands out there that have invested time and resources into leveling the playing field, crafting pieces of high horology that are more accessible than ever before. Across 10 pieces, we’re running the gamut of style and utility, but each piece is unique in its own way, and definitely worthy of your consideration if you’re looking for a complicated watch at a not-so-complicated price point. Christopher Ward Bel Canto Case: 41mm Material: Grade 5 Titanium Movement: Caliber FS01 Automatic Water Resistance: Price: Starts at $3,995 The only logical jumping off point for a guide such as this is with the watch that revolutionized haute-horology bells and whistles at an unheard-of price tag: the Bel Canto from British maker Christopher Ward. You’ve...
Worn & Wound
There is something about mother-of-pearl that seems to be catching watchmakers’ eyes lately. While I highly doubt it has to do with the fact that “Mother of Pearl” is a phenomenal drag name, I can’t totally rule that out as a possibility. Instead, more likely, it has to do with the ease in which adding the iridescent substance onto an existing design gives it new personality without really reinventing the wheel. Case in point: Yema’s Navygraf Pearl. Undoubtedly, the Navygraf is a handsome watch. But, like a drag queen, sometimes it’s hard to describe something as both “handsome” and “pretty” simultaneously. At least, that was my first impression of this French-made watch. Using the classic dive watch model, like the Navygraf, and inlaying mother-of-pearl seemed, in a way, incongruous to the steely, masculine athleticism of the silhouette. But, upon examining the bezel and dial a little more closely, I’m more inclined to think this is less of a gimmick and more of a thematic appreciation for the beauty and sport that the ocean provides (unfortunately, I’m only speculating – the press release was more focused on the technical specs of this Navygraf). So, what are the specs? This is a thinner Navygraf variant, equipped with a micro-rotor caliber CMM.2, meaning that the 316L stainless steel case measuring 39mm, only clocks in at 9.75mm thickness. The CMM.2 caliber also promises around 70 hours of power reserve, making it suitable for any diving trips ...
Fratello
If you’re celebrating 270 years of uninterrupted watchmaking history, you’ve seen it all, and sometimes you need to find new challenges to keep things exciting. A new collection of Les Cabinotiers timepieces titled La Quête (The Quest) keeps the watchmakers at the world’s longest continually operating watch brand on their toes and the collectors happy. […] Visit Introducing: A Complicated Trio Of One-Offs From Vacheron Constantin With Astronomical Themes to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Titanium is by no means a new material in the watch industry. In fact, it’s been used on a commercial level in case construction for more than 50 years. Titanium in its raw form as a structural metal is 40% lighter than stainless steel while still just as hard. Among its appeal for watchmaking purposes are the facts that it is also highly resistant to corrosion by the elements as well as being hypoallergenic. There are different grades of titanium as well, which offer different characteristics based on how it’s alloyed with other metals. Titanium ranges in color from dark gunmetal grey to a steely silver which gives it versatility in different applications. Perhaps the most enticing aspect of titanium, particularly from the consumer side, is that despite its high-quality characteristics, there isn’t a massive discrepancy between its price versus that of stainless steel. With that in mind, we've compiled a list of 30 outstanding titanium watches in a range of price categories. Citizen Promaster Super Titanium Armor Case Size: 41 mm, Integrated 23.5 mm Bracelet, Thickness: 10.5 mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43.7 mm, Water Resistance: 100 m, Movement: Eco Drive J810, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: $625 In 1970, Citizen launched the very first titanium wrist watch called the X-8 Cosmotron Chronometer. Today, Citizen uses what it calls Super Titanium, a titanium alloy coated with a proprietary hardening agent that increases the hardness of the metal to five times that of stainless steel. ...
Fratello
Having iterated upon its Sailcloth and Signature Nylon ranges to near perfection, Artem turns its attention to unexplored territory. The typically adventure-focused Australian strap maker seeks to put its spin on classic leather straps. Its well-renowned Sailcloth and HydroFlex watch straps suit all climates and excursions, standing up to whatever you can throw at them. […] Visit Artem Takes A Bold Step With The Introduction Of Barenia Leather Straps In Its Loop-Less Style to read the full article.
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Monochrome
With well over a century of watchmaking from the day the brand was founded until today, the world of Rolex can be a daunting one. As the most prolific and widely known brand, and with countless references, generations and innovations coming from the Swiss manufacture, it’s understandable some might get absolutely lost in the details. […]
Monochrome
“What could have been…” is a remark often heard when talking about cancelled racing programs, failed prototypes or one-hit wonders. In the world of motorsports, there have been plenty of examples of this. Cars that raced just once, never managed to move beyond the development stage, or existed only in rumours, even. Think of the […]
Fratello
So far, we’ve introduced you to Abraham-Louis Breguet, who set up shop 250 years ago, and the “Breguet of the 20th Century,” English watchmaker and inventor of the Co-Axial escapement, George Daniels. In the spirit of independent watchmaking and the brand’s 30th anniversary, Fratello now invites you to get acquainted with Monsieur Roger Dubuis (1938–2017), […] Visit Who Was Roger Dubuis? - The Life And Work Of The Master Watchmaker With A Taste For The Extravagant to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Yema brings mother-of-pearl to new territory with the Yema Navygraf Pearl, a watch featuring a bezel and dial crafted from the iridescent material.
Monochrome
Independent and intentionally small, Brellum is the brand of fourth-generation watchmaker Sébastien Muller, and is built on three constants: COSC certification across the board, full movement decoration under a domed exhibition back, and direct-to-consumer production capped at 299 pieces a year. The catalogue splits into clear families. The Duobox, with its twin box sapphires and […]
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Hodinkee
The anOrdain Founder will discuss the details of grand feu enamel and the different techniques employed in its production.
Monochrome
French brand Yema got a foothold in the watch world with its rugged tool watches, exemplified by models like the mighty 300 water-resistant Superman skin diver of 1963. Proud of its French roots, Yema secured strategic alliances with the French Navy (Marine Nationale) to develop military tool watches. Based on its 1970s Navygraf dive watch, […]
Monochrome
Citizen… The very name of the brand is highly meaningful. “Watches made for all citizens.” Last year, when we visited the exhibition retracing 100 years of the brand, it became clear to me that the brand was doing things in a very particular way. The idea behind Citizen isn’t just to be accessible; it is […]
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders can be a blur of new releases in and of itself. So, when a brand asks if you want to preview some upcoming introductions for the year ahead, it can start to make your head spin. However, at my Raymond Weil appointment this past spring, I relinquished. The brand had a small display of archival pieces in a vitrine at their booth, and its Chief Marketing Officer Jeremie Bernheim assured me the reveal would be worth viewing alongside the mini museum of vintage designs. What he shared with me was a new capsule within Raymond Weil’s Toccata collection drawing from the retro models and aptly named Toccata Heritage. Today, this collection comes to you in nine styles, each more beautiful than the next, and with the option of either quartz or mechanical, manually wound movements for the first time. If you have followed Raymond Weil through any point of its nearly 50-year history, you know the brand loves to play with shape and case architecture. The existing Toccata collection explores this with a combination of rectangular and round models. For the new Toccata Heritage capsule, the maison has refined this design language even further. Here, you have a shape the brand simply calls oval, but in my humble opinion, this description does not do the case justice. The case design of the new Toccata Heritage models is decidedly not the harsh, egg-shaped oval profile you might associate with other watch brands. Instead, it takes the structure of the current rectangular m...
Worn & Wound
It’s well understood that anniversaries in the watch world are fertile ground for new projects. We see it on what amounts to a weekly basis at this point, brands celebrating milestones for collections, movements, and of course the founding of the brand itself. Collaborations are also at the heart of pushing new products to watch enthusiasts, which again needs no further explanation at this point. So in that sense, the new limited edition release from Unimatic in partnership with the Armoury should be the least surprising thing ever. It’s a watch that represents the continuation of a collaborative relationship and a celebration of a pair of anniversaries. The Armoury, the menswear retailer founded by Mark Cho, turns 15 this year, the same year that Unimatic turns ten. It’s a good opportunity to reflect on the impact both the Armoury and Unimatic have had in the watch space in that time. Unimatic has developed into one of the leading design focused, approachable, independent brands. Like Ming, Fears, and a small handful of other brands that have hit their stride in roughly the same time period, they have an unmistakable aesthetic that is recognizable from across a room, as well as a committed contingent of fans that hang on every new release. And while the Armoury did not begin as an outpost for watches, it’s become an important part of the community thanks to Mark Cho’s genuine dedication to watches. He’s a true collector and admirer of great watches (at all p...
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Worn & Wound
It’s hard to overstate the impact that Salvador Dalí-and, by extension, the Surrealist movement-had on popular culture. What might now feel like a strange detour in an art history textbook was, in reality, a radical reimagining of what art could be. Dalí’s obsession with the unconscious, symbolism, and dream logic reframed art as a psychological response to culture, rather than just a mirror of it. In doing so, Surrealism paved the way for the Avant-Garde, Pop Art, and the way we think about art today. It’s no surprise, then, that Dalí’s legacy continues to ripple through design and (not to be dramatic here) time itself. Brands have long used his vision as a jumping-off point for their own explorations of time and perception, most notably, of course, through reinterpretations of some of Dali’s most famous works, like his 1931 The Persistence of Memory. The Cartier Crash, with its iconic “melting clock” case, is probably the most famous representation of this style; but it is not the only one. In fact, Exaequo has been producing its own version of a melting watch since 1990, with its latest references, the Polyhedron series, debuting at Time to Watches in Geneva earlier this year. While there will undoubtedly be comparisons between Cartier’s and Exaequo’s two versions of a wobbly little timepiece, there is a marked difference between the two brands’ approach to the same reference source (not least of all the price). For the Polyhedron, Exaequo...
Monochrome
Launched in 2021, the Tonda PF collection fulfilled two needs with one deed. On the one hand, it celebrated Parmigiani Fleurier’s 25th anniversary and the illustrious career of master watchmaker and founder Michel Parmigiani; on the other, it marked a trial by fire for the new collection, overseen by the newly appointed CEO, Guido Terreni. […]
SJX Watches
Phillips’s upcoming sale in Geneva has the most attention-grabbing roster of the Geneva auctions, including the return of a record-setting Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in steel. Yet it was the J. Player & Son No. 11’901 that most affected me. Dubbed the “hyper” complication by Phillips, the watch belongs to a rarified group of swan-song supercomplications that memorialise the final days of English fine watchmaking. Despite being over a century old, the watch easily holds its own against the fine watchmaking of today, both in decoration and mechanics. By the turn of the century, the traditional watchmaking centers of England and France were besieged by vertically integrated American super-factories from the West, and cheap but skilful Swiss labour from the East, both of which benefited greatly from mechanisation. During the waning years of English fine watchmaking, the most prestigious firms responded by attempting to move even further upmarket with highly complicated watches, and the firms remained confident in the appeal of their products. “If they are more expensive, as they must necessarily be, they last the purchaser a lifetime,” said a representative of Nicole, Nielsen & Co., the company that built this watch, said of English watches in 1912, “The better classes, indeed, have always bought, and will always buy, English-made watches, and will not buy any others”. Swiss prelude This watch started life in Switzerland as ebauche number 7’321, according to Fr...
Deployant
In this video, we answer the newbie question of what are complications in watches, and talk about our personal favourite complications.
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
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