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The Unusual Suspects: Curating A Watch Collection Outside Of The Obvious Fratello
Mar 11, 2024

The Unusual Suspects: Curating A Watch Collection Outside Of The Obvious

At Fratello, we love hypothetical collecting exercises, challenges like “What if I could spend 5K or 10K on a three-watch collection?” for instance. Today, I want to do one that isn’t limited by a specific budget or number of watches. Instead, I would like to simply stray off the beaten path and go for unusual […] Visit The Unusual Suspects: Curating A Watch Collection Outside Of The Obvious to read the full article.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge Meteorite SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Mar 11, 2024

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge Meteorite

Girard-Perregaux (GP) is dressing up its entry-level “bridge” model with meteorite panels that flank the visible barrel and going train. The Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite retains the model’s 44 mm steel case with a domed crystal and ergonomic lugs, with the centrepiece being the free-sprung balance wheel and escapement in silicon. Initial Thoughts GP’s flagship complication, historically speaking, was the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges. The Free Bridge is an abbreviated, affordable take on the Three Bridge concept. Although the Free Bridge is a simple watch – it’s a two-hand timepiece indicating just hours and minutes – it has been executed fairly elaborately in terms of the movement. In that sense, the Free Bridge is similar to the Ulysse Nardin Freak X, which is not surprising since the two are sister companies. However, past versions of the Free Bridge were fairly plain in terms of design. The Free Bridge Meteorite is a bit more stylish in terms of aesthetics thanks to the meteorite panels that frame the open-worked movement. The silvery-grey tone of the meteorite is a good match for the black and grey palette of the watch. At CHF24,600, the Free Bridge Meteorite isn’t too expensive, though it isn’t the same sort of value proposition that the Freak X is. Though the two watches are similar thematically, the Freak X has a more complex movement but only costs about 10% more. The Free Bridge Meteorite would have been a similar value propositio...

Exploring Our Curated Gift Guides Worn & Wound
Mar 8, 2024

Exploring Our Curated Gift Guides

If you are like us, you’ve realized how difficult it can be to shop for others. Whether it is the recipient’s particular nature or the overload of options at your disposal, finding and choosing the right gift is an art. Fear not, though: we’ve assembled four gift guides right here in the Windup Watch Shop – each is designed with a focus in mind. The first guide is aimed squarely at The Watch Collector (you know well who they are). The next category is a more general array of products that will appeal widely to the everyday man or woman, in other words, The Professional. Thirdly, we round up some of the best gear and accessories that The Adventurers will appreciate. And if you make it all the way to the end, you’ll find our top picks for gifts under $100. Let’s take a closer look at each one. Every guide is a living entity that is updated regularly, so don’t hesitate to bookmark them and revisit whenever you need reference points or ideas. Happy shopping! If you are like us, you’ve realized how difficult it can be to shop for others. Whether it is the recipient’s particular nature or the overload of options at your disposal, finding and choosing the right gift is an art. Fear not, though: we’ve assembled four gift guides right here in the Windup Watch Shop – each is designed with a focus in mind. The first guide is aimed squarely at The Watch Collector (you know well who they are). The next category is a more general array of products that will appea...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Tourbillon Openworked “Sand Gold” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Audemars Piguet has firmly Mar 7, 2024

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Tourbillon Openworked “Sand Gold”

Audemars Piguet (AP) has introduced the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in a new proprietary 18ak gold alloy known as sand gold. Essentially a precious-metal variant of the steel version released in 2022, the new Tourbillon Openworked showcases the brand’s commitment to interesting materials – possible in part due to AP owning its own case maker. While the hype for integrated-bracelet sport watches has ebbed, AP has continued to deliver successive variants of its popular Royal Oak in exotic materials ranging from brown ceramic to frosted gold. Priced at CHF250,000, this latest variant pairs a warm-hued gold case and bracelet with one of the brand’s most modern movements. Initial thoughts Unlike its “Holy Trinity” peers Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet has firmly embraced a contemporary, architectural aesthetic throughout its collections. The new Tourbillon Openworked is emblematic of this theme, eschewing traditional decorative finishes like Côtes de Geneve in favour of minimalist graining and sharp angles. Featuring the brand’s latest generation flying tourbillon movement plated to match the case, the sand gold tourbillon presents a striking monochrome appearance. While skeletonised watches can often look fussy and chaotic, the geometric bridges of the cal. 2972 were clearly designed with openworking in mind. As a result, the overall aesthetic is clean and organised. The 41 mm case is well-proportioned at just 10.6 mm...

VPC Debuts with the Type 37HW SJX Watches
VPC Debuts Mar 7, 2024

VPC Debuts with the Type 37HW

Founded last year by Thomas van Straaten, VPC is a Dutch micro brand making its debut with the Type 37HW. Mr van Straaten, who formerly works for an Amsterdam-based watch dealer and now writes for media platform Fratello, started VPC with the goal of creating the “ultimate” everyday watch in his words. VPC is short for Venustas Per Constantiam, Latin that translates as either  “beauty through constancy” or “charm through restraint.”  Featuring numerous clever details, the Type 37HW is the result of Mr van Straaten’s own experience owning, and later growing bored with, numerous watches that, in his view, featured compromised designs. He appears to have approached this problem forensically, considering everything from the bracelet end-links to the typography on the dial. Initial Thoughts The Type 37HW is an impressive debut that manages to stand out in a crowded segment of the watch market thanks to several interesting details. The central premise of the Type 37HW is that it is a “go anywhere, do anything”, or GADA, watch. Almost every aspect of the watch appears to have been designed with this use case in mind.  The Type 37HW offers goldilocks proportions, and is unusually slim at just 9.8 mm thick (including 2 mm for the domed sapphire crystal). The svelte profile is likely possible thanks to the use of a manually wound Sellita SW216-1. Unfortunately, the combination of a screw-down crown and a manually wound movement – one with a relatively short 45...

Introducing: The Ominous Minase Horizon GEN DLC Limited Edition Fratello
Minase Mar 6, 2024

Introducing: The Ominous Minase Horizon GEN DLC Limited Edition

At Fratello, we have a particular taste for the creations of Japanese brand Minase. We have done two collaborations that seemed to resonate with many of you. Today, I would like to introduce you to another limited-edition Minase, though Fratello had no input this time. For this watch, Minase took its popular Horizon model and […] Visit Introducing: The Ominous Minase Horizon GEN DLC Limited Edition to read the full article.

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata Louis Mar 1, 2024

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata

Louis Vuitton has received much press recently for the Tambour, a restrained, sleek watch with just three hands. But the brand also makes watches at the other end of the spectrum, as personified by the Tambour Opera Automata. A large watch with an even larger presence, the Opera Automata is an extremely complicated watch with a kinetic dial – that is also enamelled by Anita Porchet. The pusher at two o’clock activates the automata on the dial, which also serves to indicate the time with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. Although mechanically identical to the earlier Carpe Diem automata watch, the Opera Automata is more striking thanks to its vivid colours, and also more relatable for East Asians given the theme. Initial thoughts The Tambour Opera Automata is a statement watch that is hard to miss by virtue of its size and colour. Although the extravagant style is typical of Louis Vuitton, the details of the enamel dial are particularly fine. Moreover, the motif is more appealing to me personally compared to its predecessor, the Carpe Diem from three years ago. I was impressed by the Carpe Diem, both for its complexity and execution, particularly the delicate enamelled snake, but the skull-and-snake motif was too much for me. It was also less relatable, since it is a vanitas, a familiar concept in Western culture. With a Chinese opera motif, the Opera Automata, on the other hand, is more relatable. The Opera Automata is impressively decorated on the front – unsurp...

Louis Erard Introduces New Entries in their Excellence Petite Seconde Collection Featuring Elaborate Guilloche Dials Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces New Entries Feb 27, 2024

Louis Erard Introduces New Entries in their Excellence Petite Seconde Collection Featuring Elaborate Guilloche Dials

The latest release from Louis Erard expands their Excellence Petite Seconde range, and includes another release in that collection’s 39mm case size. Louis Erard has really become a collector favorite over the last few years with their many collaborative limited editions and (relatively) affordable ways to buy into design codes that traditionally represent true high luxury watchmaking, and they’ve done it mostly on the back of a 42mm case. It’s always notable when we see them release something new in their easier to wear 39mm case size, and with the Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloche (in two sizes) we also have a watch that’s really playing into that high luxury aesthetic with an unusually complex dial. These watches are really a celebration of guilloche itself, and seek to present the decorative technique in a more classical way than something like the brand’s much more contemporary guilloche LE from a few years ago. The larger 42mm watch features gray and black tones, while the smaller 39mm watch features a rich blue and gray for contrast.  The dials are made in four parts, and highlight contrasting guilloche patterns. The central section has a traditional wave-like pattern that is meant to cast light directly from the dial’s center. An outer section, where you’ll find the hour track, features what’s known as a “panier” motif, which has the appearance of slightly staggered scales. This pattern is repeated in the small seconds subdial at the 6:00 posi...

Hands-On: the ARDIO Caribe Worn & Wound
Isotope green gilded black Feb 27, 2024

Hands-On: the ARDIO Caribe

ARDIO is an independent U.S. brand based out of Pennsylvania and founded by Ron Oley. The Caribe is the brand’s first watch and is the product of over three years of design effort. ARDIO keeps a fairly quiet online presence, with their main website and an Instagram page being the most accessible sources of information for prospective buyers. According to Oley, each component of the Caribe is designed from scratch and the watches are assembled in small batches. This particular run is capped at 300 pieces per colorway with each watch triple-checked by three separate parties and hand-regulated before shipping. There are five dial colors offered at this time: light blue, gauge brass, isotope green, gilded black, and sunrise orange. I had the opportunity to review the blue and brass options. My first impressions of the watch were very positive. I had initial concerns about how it would wear on my wrist, since it looked sizable in the travel case it came in and felt fairly hefty before trying it on. Case diameters of 40mm can wear a myriad of ways depending on other factors – it seems to be a size where the number on paper doesn’t give the wearer the full picture of the fit. However, the Caribe really feels like it wears true to size due to its well-proportioned lugs and slim bezel. Part of the illusion of its overall dimensions can likely be attributed to its height: a double domed sapphire crystal adds two millimeters to its vertical presence, but also offers a nice effe...

Baume & Mercier Miniature Pierre Soulages Painting on a Watch Dial (Again) SJX Watches
Baume & Mercier Feb 26, 2024

Baume & Mercier Miniature Pierre Soulages Painting on a Watch Dial (Again)

To commemorate the 10th anniversary of the Musée Soulages, Baume & Mercier (B&M;) is launching a second edition inspired by Pierre Soulages (1919-2022). The Hampton Polyptyque Edition “Musée Soulages 10th Anniversary” features a dial modelled on Peinture 324 x 362 cm, 1986, Polyptyque I. Inspired by the style of the French abstractionist, the dial reproduces the dense impasto of texture and shapes of the artwork. As with the first edition, it has an all-black case and an overall composition devoid of colour, except for the branding and hands. Initial thoughts While watchmakers often partner with museums, Baume & Mercier’s tie-up with the Musée Soulages’ that started in 2022 yielded the brand’s most compelling watch to date – which is saying a lot for this anaemic brand. The second edition is essentially identical to the first, but with a different artwork on the dial. Though simple, the latest Soulages watch still manages to capture the essence of his work on a tiny canvas.  However, as is always the case with limited editions, the number of editions is inversely proportional to desirability and appeal. While the first edition was special – it reputedly sold out swiftly – the second edition is intrinsically less unique. If there are much more on the horizon then the concept will lose much of its interest. The Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” edition from 2022 Priced at US$6,900, the new Soulages edition costs US$1,050 more than the first edition...

A Grand Seiko “First” 3180 Remake in Titanium and Powder Blue SJX Watches
Grand Seiko First” 3180 Remake Feb 24, 2024

A Grand Seiko “First” 3180 Remake in Titanium and Powder Blue

Having just opened its first boutique in Singapore, Grand Seiko has now announced a limited edition especially for the store. The Elegance Collection Singapore Boutique Exclusive SBGW315 is essentially a new take on the “First” cal. 3180 remake. Instead of traditional colours and materials, the SBGW315 renders the familiar design in titanium with a patterned, powder blue dial. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko releases a lot of limited editions – a Spring Drive pair was just announced two weeks ago – but the SBGW315 unexpectedly manages to be different. For one, the base model of the edition is infrequently iterated. The last variant of the “First” remake I can think of was from early 2023 when Grand Seiko unveiled a version with a maki-e lacquer dial. Additionally, past “First” limited editions were more traditional in colour, with plain dials in either silver, cream, or dark colours like black or blue. The SBGW315, on the other hand, combines the aesthetics of the “First” with a decidedly contemporary powder blue dial finished with a radial feathered pattern. While the colour and pattern are hardly novel, they give this watch a distinctive look. Even amongst the numerous Grand Seiko limited editions, the SBGW315 stands out. And it will continue to be uncommon as long as Grand Seiko doesn’t roll out more version of the model in additional colours – which is an overly optimistic assumption given the brand’s inclination towards such watches. A new(ish)...

Up Close: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Feb 20, 2024

Up Close: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

Announced a year ago as only a computer-generated rendering, the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription finally arrived in tangible form earlier this year with a finished prototype that was exhibited at LVMH Watch Week. At a distance the Tourbillon Souscription is practically indistinguishable from the originals that inspired it. But up close it stands out for the high quality of execution, which in many respects is superior to the originals, as well as the subtle tweaks to the design. The Tourbillon Souscription certainly bodes well for the revival of the brand, though its future will hinge on novel and original creations. Like all future Daniel Roth watches, this was produced by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the Geneva manufacture owned by Louis Vuitton that has vertically integrated itself at a rapid pace in recent years. Initial thoughts I was surprised when I first examined the Tourbillon Souscription prototype. It manages to capture the feel of the originals, but even surpasses them in some aspects, most notably the guilloche dial. It’s worth noting the dial is done in-house by LFT’s recently-acquired guilloche workshop, though the production examples will have a dial made by Voutilainen. This level of quality certainly raises exceptions for future watches from Daniel Roth and the wider LFT stable, which includes Gerald Genta. Amongst the other visible upgrades are the decoration on the base plate visible below the tourbillon. This reflects the new calibre within that...

Vero Debuts a Collection of Officially Licensed USDA Forest Service Watches on the Workhorse Platform Worn & Wound
Feb 19, 2024

Vero Debuts a Collection of Officially Licensed USDA Forest Service Watches on the Workhorse Platform

Hot on the heels of a pair of well received watches paying tribute to Smokey Bear, Vero is back with a new collection made in partnership with the USDA Forest Service. Vero has really dug into a niche with these recent releases, bolstering their image as an authentically outdoors focused brand. I really like it when brands fully embrace something that’s obviously important to them, and Vero’s release strategy is a great example of the best example of this idea. The coolest thing about these watches, though, is that they aren’t merely exercises in licensing – they have a distinct design language in conversation with Vero’s other watches.  The Forest Service collection is made up of four watches, with each colorway inspired by Forest Service teams charged with protecting US forests and grasslands. The Airtanker has a red/orange dial that matches the color of the fire retardants used in fighting forest fires, the Ranger has a black dial with green and khaki accents meant to evoke the iconic Forest Service uniforms, the Hotshot features bright yellow accents that match the uniforms of the teams who go by the same name and have a particular expertise in forest fire behavior, and the Service Green watch has a bright green tone that matches Forest Service utility vehicles. Looking at the collection as a whole, it’s clear that Vero is having fun with color here, something we always appreciate in a space still dominated by conservative choices and monotone design decis...

Hands-On: the Foliot Scubanaut Collection Worn & Wound
Feb 19, 2024

Hands-On: the Foliot Scubanaut Collection

Anyone who has been in the watch world long enough knows how hard it is to be surprised. New releases often feel like a revolving door of familiar brands tweaking existing models. Maybe that means a blue Pelagos FXD instead of a black one, or adding a piece of flair such as Kermit the frog to a date wheel without changing any complications. Iterations such as new dial colors and puppets on wheels make for temporary amusement, but fall short of evoking genuine surprise from enthusiasts who are no stranger to seeing their favorite childhood characters adorning their wrists. When bombshells from the big brand fizzle out, I often turn to the microbrand space in my quest for a bit of shock. I foster a special affinity for microbrands and applaud any brand that dares to enter a crowded arena to contribute something new. But even in a constantly shifting microbrand landscape, things can be predictable. Slimmer versions of existing dive watches and fan favorite brands jumping on the integrated bracelet bandwagon can start to feel a bit formulaic. But in a rare occurrence, I had the opportunity for surprise by spending time with two travel watches from Foliot, a brand not previously on my radar. And, spoiler alert, one of these watches actually did manage to scratch that awe inspiring itch. Fighting the urge to research brand history and sleuth for fellow enthusiast’s opinions on the forums before the mail truck arrived, I decided to go in blind with this review. Afterall, how of...

Introducing - A Small Second Version and New Colours for the Affordable Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Monochrome
Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Unveiled Feb 16, 2024

Introducing - A Small Second Version and New Colours for the Affordable Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic

Unveiled in 2022 and already a great success worldwide for the brand, the Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic NJ015 was the direct descendant of another important collection for the Japanese watchmaker, the NH299 series. But above all, the Tsuyosa collection offered the ability for many watch enthusiasts to access the highly desirable sporty-chic integrated style of high-end […]

Introducing - The New Classic-Looking Vulcain Grand Prix Collection Monochrome
Vulcain Grand Prix Collection Drawing Feb 16, 2024

Introducing - The New Classic-Looking Vulcain Grand Prix Collection

Drawing on its historical references, Vulcain has been building a strategy to resurrect its emblematic past collections. The newly added series is inspired by the elegant Vulcain Grand Prix watch from the 1960s. The original timepiece was introduced to commemorate the prestigious award bestowed upon the brand at the Barcelona International Exposition from May 29th, […]

Breitling Collaborates with Victoria Beckham on the Compact Chronomat 36 SJX Watches
Breitling Collaborates Feb 16, 2024

Breitling Collaborates with Victoria Beckham on the Compact Chronomat 36

Breitling has just launched the Chronomat 36 Victoria Beckham, a limited-edition variant of its 36 mm sports watch that was conceived together with footballer David Beckham’s wife. The Victoria Beckham edition is essentially the standard model with new dials that feature the “VB” logo as the second hand counterweight, and also engraved on the case back and clasp. Notably, the model range includes a (very) pricey yellow gold model, a first for the current Chronomat. Initial Thoughts Breitling relaunched the Chronomat with the retro Rouleaux bracelet, giving it something of an integrated bracelet design. Though the fad for such sports has faded, but the Chronomat remains an attractive option among its competitors, particularly the chronograph version with the in-house B01 movement. The Victoria Beckham edition doesn’t change much of the standard model, other than dial colours and the use of yellow gold. Rather than a watch catered to enthusiasts, it is clearly is more of an effort to enlarge Breitling’s audience, which is clearly mostly male and oriented towards larger watches. This new launch instead tries to target fashion-forward women and Victoria Beckham fans. That said, it does look quite stunning in yellow gold, especially with the peppermint dial. Granted, all iterations would look better without the Victoria Beckham logo, which are fortunately subtle for the most part, but the emblems are a necessary evil in a collaboration. The steels versions start at US...

The Grand Prix is the Latest Historic Reference to be Revived by Vulcain Worn & Wound
Vulcain Building Feb 15, 2024

The Grand Prix is the Latest Historic Reference to be Revived by Vulcain

Building on a rich heritage spanning over 165 years, Swiss watchmaker Vulcain continues to draw attention in the watch industry with each new reissue. Under the leadership of Guillaume Laidet, Vulcain’s Chief Revival Officer, the brand has been on a trajectory of reinterpreting its iconic timepieces, breathing new life into past references. Since 2022, Vulcain has been setting the tone for each season with strategic launches of emblematic collections, including the Cricket, Skindiver, Nautical, and more. Today, Vulcain has rereleased another popular model, the highly anticipated Grand Prix. Originally introduced in the 1960s to commemorate Vulcain’s triumph at the 1929 Barcelona International Exhibition, the Grand Prix returns with a diameter of 39mm, a great contemporary size with plenty of presence for a variety of wrists. The Vulcain Grand Prix 39mm really exemplifies Swiss elegance. Its slim and uncluttered design is a no-fuss interpretation of a clean, vintage watch that will surely garner the attention of those looking for that “Old Money” aesthetic we hear so much about on TikTok nowadays. Equipped with a Swiss Landeron automatic movement, the time-only watch features a domed crystal over a dial in Champagne, Light Grey, or Black with a semi-glossy sunray finish. With a brushed/polished steel case and polished hour markers on the dial, these vintage-inspired elements are complemented by a double-dome sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, ensuring op...

First Look - The new Omega Constellation 41mm Meteorite Collection Monochrome
Omega Constellation 41mm Meteorite Collection Feb 15, 2024

First Look - The new Omega Constellation 41mm Meteorite Collection

One of the oldest collections in Omega’s history, the Constellation has been around since 1952 (only surpassed in longevity by the Seamaster). First a classic, elegant chronometer-rated watch, the Omega Constellation drastically changed in the 1980s with the introduction of the Constellation Manhattan distinguished by its integrated design and hallmark claws. Revived in 2019 with […]

Announcing 2024 Windup Watch Fairs - New Venues, New Partners, Same Approachable Setting for Enthusiasts Worn & Wound
Feb 13, 2024

Announcing 2024 Windup Watch Fairs - New Venues, New Partners, Same Approachable Setting for Enthusiasts

Since 2015, the Windup Watch Fair has attracted watch enthusiasts from all walks of life to celebrate their passion and discover new brands and products. Over the last three years, the Windup Watch Fair has become one of the world’s largest consumer-facing watch events, serving as a powerful platform for brands and enthusiasts to come together in a one-of-a-kind setting. In 2024, this evolution continues with three shows, two new venues, and some new partnerships that will further enhance your Windup experience. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco May 3 – 5, 2024 Fort Mason – Gateway Pavillion San Francisco, CA We are thrilled to be returning to San Francisco, in an even more impactful way than ever. The Windup Watch Fair will be one of the first events in the newly reopened Gateway Pavillion on Pier 2 at the Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture. With stunning views of The Golden Gate Bridge, this architectural renovation is an idyllic spot to gather, meet new brands, try new products, and experience enthusiasm together. It comes complete with breakout rooms for live podcasts, special guest speakers, and enthusiast group meetups. You won’t want to miss this iconic San Francisco experience. Windup Watch Fair Chicago July 12-14, 2024 Venue West Chicago, IL We’ll return to our beloved Venue West for our Chicago Fair in the West Loop neighborhood of the Windy City. Once again, we’ll bring brands from around the world to share their wares and tares. With more live podca...

Up Close: Piaget Polo 79 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin 222 Feb 13, 2024

Up Close: Piaget Polo 79

In an unsurprising move given recent fads, Piaget just announced the Polo 79, a yellow gold wristwatch that is essentially a remake of the original, with a slightly larger case that captures the proportions of the original and an impressively slim movement. Initial thoughts The Polo 79 is a predictable launch, coming shortly after the Vacheron Constantin 222 and IWC Ingenieur, which are of course products of Piaget’s sister companies. The new Polo sticks to the same formula, gently updating the aesthetics and installing a new movement, but largely preserving the same design. So the Polo 79 can’t be commended for creativity, but it is executed well. That said, creating a new design in the spirit of the original – namely geometric forms, slim, and sporty – would have certainly made it a more interesting watch. The Polo 79 is slightly larger than the original, but substantially thicker thanks to a self-winding movement. The original, on the other hand, was equipped with the quartz cal. 7P, an incredibly thin movement that fit the trends of the time. The increase in size means the new Polo feels like a bulked up version of the original, which was small and flat in keeping with 1980s style. To accommodate modern tastes, the Polo 79 sacrifices the thinness of the original. That is regrettable but forgivable, since it would not be possible to achieve sufficient water resistance (the Polo 79 is rated to 50 m) as well as automatic winding in the dimensions of the original c...

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon with In-House Micro-Rotor Movement SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Feb 12, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon with In-House Micro-Rotor Movement

To inaugurate its first-ever in-house automatic movement, Konstantin Chaykin created the Wristmon Zebra Piece Unique, a one-off based on the brand’s signature best-seller. Though it retains the familiar “rolling eye” time display, the Zebra is equipped with the K.33-3, a newly-developed automatic movement with a micro-rotor. Initial thoughts Ever since the launch of the Joker, Konstantin Chaykin has continued to iterate on the Wristmon with its amusing “rolling eye” display. While the Zebra might look like more of the same, it is notable for having an all-new, in-house movement, which replaces the ETA and Vaucher movements that powered past Wristmon models. Mr Chaykin has long hinted that a workhorse in-house movement was in the works, an endeavour that was probably accelerated by the difficulty of sourcing components from outside Russia due to the ongoing war and resulting sanctions. With the launch of the K.33-3, Konstantin Chaykin becomes one of the few independent watchmakers with its own self-winding movement, let alone an automatic calibre with a micro-rotor. The K.33-3 is basic in terms of aesthetics and certain specifications, but it is a feat to be applauded, particularly for Mr Chaykin given the relatively scarcity of specialist suppliers close to him. The Zebra is a one-off conceived to debut the new calibre, but we can expect more watches with the K.33-3 in the future. And if Mr Chaykin retains the same pricing for the new models with an in-house mov...

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Sport Titanium SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Feb 12, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Sport Titanium

Zenith has just taken the covers off the Chronomaster Sport Titanium, essentially a lightweight variant of the bestselling sports chronograph. Entirely in brushed and polished titanium, the new Chronometer is powered by the El Primero 3600 and like most sports chronographs today, available with either a matching titanium bracelet or an integrated rubber strap. Initial thoughts The Chronomaster Sport Titanium doesn’t do anything new in terms of styling – the design still remains derivative of the Rolex Daytona – but it feels good in the lightweight alloy. The watch has the large size required of a sport chronograph, but is easily wearable thanks to the lightness. As an accessible alternative to the Daytona, the Chronomaster Sport is not particularly interesting in steel, but more appealing in titanium. Granted, it retains the same design, but the titanium case and bracelet give it a tangibly different feel. Of all the Chronomaster Sport iterations, this is the most appealing, particularly since it’s the only variant dressed in low-key, monochromatic colours. The grey hue of titanium complements the palette, with the tri-colour sub-dials in shades of grey being a clever touch. The Chronomaster Sport Titanium is priced at US$11,800 on a bracelet and a bit less on a strap. It’s priced comparable to other Zenith models with the same movement, and broadly speaking a good value proposition as far as sports chronographs go, with the Daytona being about 40% more expensive...

Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired by Studio Ghibli SJX Watches
Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired Feb 12, 2024

Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired by Studio Ghibli

This year is the 40th anniversary of Hayao Miyazaki’s Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, a 1984 Japanese anime film portraying the titular heroine’s valiant adventures in a post-apocalyptic world. To mark the occasion, anime studio Studio Ghibli and Seiko created the Presage Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind SPB437, a limited edition with an unusual combination of finishes, namely a blue enamel dial and a brushed steel case. Initial thoughts Seiko has long incorporated Japanese pop culture into its timepieces, drawing inspiration from iconic franchises such as Gundam and the Street Fighter video game. While the new Presage isn’t the first collaboration between the watch brand and Studio Ghibli, the Nausicaä edition is arguably amongst the best due to its classical, almost minimalist design. Even though it is a cartoon-inspired watch, the Nausicaä edition has a restrained aesthetic with stylish details. Particularly notable is the blue enamel dial featuring the emblem of the Princess Nausicaä and elongated indices. The simplicity of the dial design, combined with a steel case featuring an unusual aged finish completes the aesthetic that sets it apart from the typical Presage model. Its clean styling stands out even compared to the earlier Presage Castle in the Sky from 2021. The Nausicaä edition is priced at US$1,600, a modest increase over the previous Studio Ghibli model but still affordable. As is often the case with affordable Seiko limited editions, the m...

More New Watches Celebrating the Year of the Dragon Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer uses Feb 9, 2024

More New Watches Celebrating the Year of the Dragon

This Chinese zodiac assigns an animal to represent each lunar new year, cycling through the 12 animals who according to myth came down from heaven to help the Chinese people celebrate the spring. This year is the year of the dragon, which promises to bring good fortune and strength-and, of course, year of the dragon special edition watches. Worn & Wound has already covered some of the best ones out there, but one article (and even two) isn’t enough to cover them all. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph might be the most beautiful year of the dragon watch to come out thus far. The wine colored dial with gold numerals and hands that just ooze luxury, and pays tribute to the Chinese new year on its movement, which features an intricately carved gold dragon rotor. The watch comes with a black calfskin strap, but the rubber strap in a wine that matches the dial provides a stunning complement. IWC has done a few Chinese new year models in the past-this one is far and away the best. The brand’s year of the rabbit had a similar wine and gold coloring, but lacked a two-subdial chronograph complication like the year of the dragon. 2022’s year of the tiger was a chronograph but as a three-subdial chronograph with day and date windows, the dial just feels crowded and lacks the more elegant simplicity of this year’s model. And the metal work on the dragon rotor blows away the last two years’ animal rotors. Tag Heuer uses the inverse color scheme of the special edition Portugi...