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Happy Chinese New Year!
Today, we welcome the Year of the Fire Horse, and take the day off our usual publishing schedule to wish all our readers, friends and family a very Happy and Prosperous New Year! Gong Xi Fa Cai!
Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement
6,485 articles · 78 videos found · page 157 of 219
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Fratello
Hands-On: The Brellum Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother Of Pearl Chronometer
We continue to be impressed by the watches from Brellum. The small brand produces a maximum of 299 pieces per year, which comprises several limited-edition releases. Today, we go hands-on with the latest model, the Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother of Pearl Chronometer. Yes, that’s a lot of words, but the important details worth noting […] Visit Hands-On: The Brellum Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother Of Pearl Chronometer to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Extravagant Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series
Sometimes, extravagant timepieces come along and light up my life as a watch writer. You should have seen the look on my face when three Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic models landed on my desk. I knew that they were coming in, but they still surprised me. These extravagant watches display bold Italian design that looks like […] Visit Hands-On With The Extravagant Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series to read the full article.
Fratello
Here Is What’s New In Timekeeping For The Winter Olympic Games 2026
The incredible wins of Jutta Leerdam (left in the header image) and Jordan Stolz (on the right) probably did not go unnoticed if you watched the Olympic Games Milano Cortina 2026. Or what about the silver medal for the Italian biathlete Dorothea Wierer (center)? You also might have witnessed Lindsey Vonn’s crash on the slope. […] Visit Here Is What’s New In Timekeeping For The Winter Olympic Games 2026 to read the full article.
Fratello
Inclusive Exclusive Watchmaking - What’s It All About?
You can be a fan of Van Gogh while knowing you will never, ever have one of his works hanging on your wall. Can you be a fan of watches while being aware that you can’t afford the objects of your desire? Yes, you can, but only if you can let go of the concept […] Visit Inclusive Exclusive Watchmaking - What’s It All About? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm
Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 has spent much of its life living in the shadow of the Royal Oak, but the latest 38 mm iteration suggests the collection might be finding its footing. The smaller Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding 38 mm refines the line’s distinctive case architecture with more convincing proportions, slimmer leather straps, and richly textured embossed dials. Neither overtly sporty nor conventionally dressy, the 18k rose gold Code 11.59 positions itself as a modern dress watch with real character that is quite convincing on the wrist. Initial thoughts It’s no secret that the Code 11.59 lives in the shadow of AP’s flagship product, the Royal Oak. In the seven years since its debut, the Code has yet to have its breakout moment. Many may remember the troubled launch of the collection, which met with an unnecessarily negative response from the market. But there’s a thin line between love and hate, and AP has been steadily improving the proportions, textures, materials, and complications over the past few years, and the tipping point could be imminent. The Code claims the middle ground in the false dichotomy between dressy and sporty, which makes it difficult for casual enthusiasts and collectors to fully understand. The 38 mm size, now with a new strap design, helps position the Code more concretely in the the dress watch camp, where its 9.6 mm thickness and 30 m water resistance rating feel more appropriate. Despite the criticism that’s been l...
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Luxe Presage SPB495 Review: An Enamel Value Proposition
Seiko has one of the most expansive catalogs in the watch industry, which is key to the Japanese brand’s prowess, but its nuances can also make it quite overwhelming at times to sort through from a consumer perspective. Today, I’m going for hyperspecificity on multiple levels, not only focusing on the brand’s “Luxe” tier, but also on a specific series within that tier, and on one watch, well, specifically. As you’ve likely already noticed from this article's title, we’re gathered here today to jump into the deep end with the Presage Classics Craftsmanship Series SPB495. Though its name doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, the Seiko Presage SPB495, to me, truly demonstrates the dynamic range to be found within the contemporary Seiko lineup, given that you have the patience to sort through the complexities of the brand’s collections and naming convention nuances. [toc-section heading="History And Context"] Seiko’s Craftsmanship series officially made its start in 2013 as the brand celebrated its centennial anniversary. Positioned within the larger Presage collection, this initiative has been a way for the brand to further enhance the collection's foundational elements, mainly being a mechanical line, guided by and harkening to Seiko’s centuries-long history, with a focused attention to its dials. Essentially, the Craftsmanship series adds in more sophisticated, high-end elements into the mix, paying tribute to many traditional, artisanal techniques th...
Monochrome
First Look - The Praesidus Jungle Field Automatic 38mm
Praesidus is well known for military-inspired collections, and the Jungle Field line is a modern take on the GG-W-113 US military specification introduced in 1967. The spec called for a lightweight pilot and aircrew watch at 33mm or 34mm with a matte black dial, 12/24-hour numerals and hacking seconds. The 34mm Jungle Field OG was […]
Time+Tide
New releases from Sarpaneva, Niton, Vacheron Constantin and more
Niton and AP revive historical jumping hour watches, Sarpaneva and Urwerk go intergalactic, and Louis Vuitton teams up with De Bethune.The post New releases from Sarpaneva, Niton, Vacheron Constantin and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Introduces A New Overseas Tourbillon In Titanium With A Deep Red Dial
Vacheron Constantin unveils a new Overseas Tourbillon model with a captivating deep red sunburst dial. The aperture at 6 o’clock provides an unobstructed view of the tourbillon regulator, with the 22K gold peripheral rotor allowing light through the case back’s sapphire display. This model is the third iteration of the Overseas Tourbillon in a Grade […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Introduces A New Overseas Tourbillon In Titanium With A Deep Red Dial to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
A New Batch of Worldtimers from Farer Have Arrived
It’s hard to keep track of all the watch trends that come and go over a calendar year, and while it’s not been as smoking-hot-popular as skin divers and GMTs, the worldtimer complication has been enjoying some time in the sun recently. Joining the herd is the Farer World Timer 2026 Collection, which beefs up an already-impressive (and early to the trend) lineup with three new colorways. In fact, the Farer World Timer was first launched in 2019, well before recent additions that have piqued the watch world’s interest, and it’s that confident backlog that has allowed Farer to introduce three new pieces with a level of design refinement that other relative newcomers may lack. Before we dive into the new colorways, let’s get the basics down: each Farer World Timer sports a 39mm 316L stainless steel case (and varying finishes depending on the model) with an impressive 11mm of thickness, and a democratic 45mm lug-to-lug measurement. One crown, inset with a Farer “A”-embossed bronze cap, sits at the 3 o’clock position, while the other, wearing a World Timer marque, rests at 10 and operates the outer rotating bezel. The crowns, domed sapphire crystal, and exhibition caseback ensure a decently robust 100 meters of water resistance. Inside, a Sellita SW331-2 Elabore movement should guarantee reliability, accuracy, serviceability, and a 56-hour power reserve. A bespoke Farer rotor is color-matched to the central 24-hour disc on the dial. Speaking of that disc, it...
Monochrome
First Look - The Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project, With a Rare Sympathetic Clock
Here’s the third of the five collaboration watches done by Louis Vuitton with some of the most revered independent watchmakers. Indeed, following the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie made with Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Atelier Akrivia, and the LVKV-02 GMR 6 made with Finnish-born watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, it’s time now for LV to unveil its project […]
Monochrome
A Technical Perspective - Sellita Introduces The SW200-2 Power+ Family Of Calibres, An Updated Version Of The SW200
Sellita has introduced a new evolution of its most ubiquitous automatic movement: the SW200-2 Power+. This new calibre is designed to sit alongside the well-known and widespread SW200-1 during a transition phase, before progressively replacing it across collections. At first glance, nothing seems to have changed. The SW200-2 Power+ shares the same dimensions, architecture, and […]
SJX Watches
Masterpieces of Modernism: Swatch Debuts Guggenheim Collaboration
Having previously collaborated with almost every major art museum in the world, from MoMA to the Louvre, Swatch has licensed four masterpieces of 20th-century art from the Guggenheim, including works on display in New York and Venice. Accessibly priced, non-limited and available online, the Swatch x Guggenheim collection brings works from Monet, Degas, Klee, and Pollock to a wrist near you. Initial thoughts Painted dials have a long history in watchmaking, but the difficult nature of the work meant that for most of history they remained out of reach for all but the wealthiest clientele. While hand-painted dials are vanishingly rare and breathtakingly expensive, modern production methods mean that legendary masterpieces can now be easily scaled down and mass produced. Swatch was a pioneer in this regard, introducing its first artist collaboration with Kiki Picasso in 1985, just two years after the company launched its revolutionary plastic watch. The Picasso collaboration was the first of many, and since then there’s hardly a major art museum that hasn’t licensed selected works to Swatch. The works selected for this collaboration come from two different Guggenheim collections. Three of them are famously on display at the Guggenheim New York, while the fourth may be seen at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice. The odd-looking double-length seconds hand is an homage to this transatlantic duality. The Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice. Functionally, the four quar...
Fratello
Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In A Tantalizing Two-Tone Configuration
Two years ago, Piaget reintroduced its iconic Polo watch. The Polo 79 in full 18K yellow gold was a very appropriate way to celebrate the maison’s 150th anniversary. For those who thought that version was a bit too flashy, last year, Piaget introduced another variant in all 18K white gold. Now, if that one went […] Visit Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In A Tantalizing Two-Tone Configuration to read the full article.
Fratello
Going Yellow: Why I Bought A Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar
Buying a watch you already know is a very different experience from buying one you’re curious about. There’s no discovery phase, no anxious waiting for the honeymoon period to either validate or undermine the decision. Instead, it’s quieter, more deliberate. In many ways, that’s exactly how I felt when I purchased my Doxa Sub 300T […] Visit Going Yellow: Why I Bought A Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar to read the full article.
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - Some of the Most Iconic Watches to Appear in Movies
Watches are so ubiquitous that just about every movie has characters wearing them. Most go unnoticed by audiences as a generic part of daily life, although when bigger actors or “movie stars” flash a watch on screen, it often gets noticed. For the most part, however, watches are simply part of the given wardrobe and […]
Fratello
Why Do You Wear An Analog Watch In A Digital World - The Psychology Behind It
Ask yourself: why do you wear an analog watch in the digital world? Before you answer this, think beyond prestige, status, or luxury. Also, go deeper than the history of wristwatches, the mechanical movements and complications you admire, and the models you desire. Instead, think about wearing a mechanical watch in your digitally dominated world. […] Visit Why Do You Wear An Analog Watch In A Digital World - The Psychology Behind It to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Blancpain’s Chinese Calendar Meets “Salmon” Grand Feu Enamel
Now an annual affair, Blancpain has just released the Villeret Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel 2026 for the year of the fire horse arriving on February 17, 2026. Though it’s based on a longstanding model, the 2026 edition is dressed in striking new livery. A 50-piece limited edition in platinum with a salmon-coloured grand feu enamel dial, the Calendrier Chinois marks the Year of the Fire Horse in a way that few brands can: with a fully-mechanical Chinese calendar complication. Initial thoughts Building a traditional Chinese calendar complication on wristwatch scale was a real first back in 2012 when Blancpain first unveiled the Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel. While many brands introduce yearly limited editions to honour each year’s symbol of the Chinese zodiac, Blancpain’s annual edition is elevated by a thematic sincerity that comes along with the dedicated complication. This specific edition aside, the Blancpain Chinese calendar is notable and interesting for being one of the few such calendars on the market. It’s a technical achievement and is further upgraded with Blancpain’s patented under-lug correctors for the calendar. The defining colour of the 2026 Chinese calendar comes from its warm, salmon-tone dial. Executed in milky grand feu enamel, the dial is as glossy as ever, and features twin Blancpain ‘secret signatures’ on the lower half of the dial. The often underrated Villeret collection is one of the subtler gems in modern high horology, and it is...
SJX Watches
Richemont Unloads Baume & Mercier
Today Richemont confirmed the rumoured sale of its entry-level Baume et Mercier brand to the Damiani Group, a key distributor of the brand in Italy through its retail chain Rocca. While Baume et Mercier is understood to not be profitable, the acquisition should give Baume et Mercier the home-field advantage, as Italy is one of the most important markets for the brand today. According to the Baume et Mercier website, 325 stores in Italy carry the brand, compared to just 150 in France, 130 in the United States, and only 66 in Mainland China. A leaner Baume et Mercier focused on the Italian market, in the same vein as Eberhard & Co., is likely in the long-term, but in the meantime it must be untangled from Richemont. The deal is expected to close this summer, after which Richemont will provide “operational services” for the brand for at least 12 months. It is unclear whether the brand’s “Baumatic” movements with 5-day power reserves will survive the transition, as there are made by ValFleurier - Richemont’s counterpart to ETA. For more information, visit Richemont.com.
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Sleek, Flight-Ready Bremont Altitude Date
British watchmaking company Bremont has made some key changes in the last couple of years, not least bringing on a new CEO in 2023, Davide Cerrato (well known for releasing the Tudor Black Bay in 2012 and for working at Montblanc and Panerai). A new direction was revealed at Watches & Wonders 2024 with an updated logo and a broader […]
Monochrome
First Look - Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Victory Green Chronograph
Since its rebirth in 2015, Czapek & Cie has produced a focused but diverse family of collections: the elegant Quai des Bergues, the sporty-chic Antarctique, the recent Promenade, the exceptional Place Vendôme, and the refined Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph series. Introduced in 2018, the Faubourg de Cracovie was Czapek’s first chronograph, powered by the calibre […]
Monochrome
Introducing - Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Fire Horse”
Blancpain unveiled its Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar in 2012, an extraordinarily complex watch that fuses the traditional lunisolar Chinese system, elements of the Gregorian calendar, and a moon phase. A world first, Blancpain’s masterpiece coincided with the Chinese Year of the Dragon. For 2026, Blancpain returns with a 50-piece limited edition in platinum dedicated to […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold
A. Lange & Söhne launched the Odysseus Honeygold last year and it’s easily the brand’s most luxe sports watch. Presented end to end in 18k Honeygold, this Odysseus is impressively well made, impressively heavy, and impressively expensive. I recently got the chance to spend some time with one of the 100 pieces made, and it was certainly a good experience. Initial thoughts The Odysseus was never a pretty watch, and this isn’t more visually appealing than the titanium or steel version. The design doesn’t have the finesse of its rivals, most notably the Royal Oak or Nautilus. But the Odysseus does have tactile and intellectual appeal, and that translates into physical attraction. The Odysseus is impressive like many Lange watches are thanks to its build quality. In Honeygold it looks and feels even more luxurious. The warmth and weight of the metal give it greater appeal, in fact Honeygold gives this a large-yacht-on-the-Mediterranean type of feel that its counterparts in more common metals lack. Look and feel aside, this has all of the strengths and weakness of the earlier versions. Strengths include the quality of course, as well as good ergonomics, which matter more here because of the weight. One of the weaknesses is the clasp, which is practical and easy to operate, but a little too large for a sports watch that is also supposed to be elegant. With a price tag of US$110,000, the Odysseus Honeygold is very expensive for what it is, even by Lange standards. But wha...
Deployant
New: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime
The Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime returns in 2026 with a pair of platinum models, one with a tourbillon and enamel dial elements. Press release with commentary in italics Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Commentary The Escale Worldtime has been a defining model for the Escale collection since its debut in 2014. In fact, I’d go oneRead More
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Comparing The New Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Black & White Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.004 With The Rolex Daytona Ref. 126500LN
From case to bracelet and everything in-between, we go into the nitty-gritty on two of the best sporty chronographs between $10,000 and $20,000 dollars
Worn & Wound
Teddy Baldassarre and RGM Collaborate on the New 501
Many a modern watch collaboration is born from a combination of content creation and independent watchmaking; larger companies are often not as open to letting YouTubers or other creators see their inner workings, leaving microbrands and independents (who need the press) as the ideal subjects of mini documentaries and deep dives. Because of this, many creators forge relationships with the folks who run those smaller companies, which paves the way for collaboration efforts that go beyond YouTube or podcasts. Teddy Baldassarre is one of the most recognizable talking heads on horological YouTube, and has taken his passion into the world of retail as well, heading his own website and business and rocketing his name into upper reaches of watch enthusiasm. So, it makes sense that Baldassarre has sought to link his name with actual timepieces as well, and the new RGM Watch Co. 501 Teddy Baldassarre Edition hits the market as his second collaboration with an established watchmaker. Forged through a years-long friendship with RGM namesake Roland G. Murphy, the 5011 Teddy Baldassarre Edition takes the already eye-catching 501 model, and adds a touch of Baldassarre’s personality to the mix. First, though, it may be helpful to know a little bit about RGM as a brand: founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1992 by Murphy, an ex-Hamilton master watchmaker, RGM has long produced bespoke, custom-made watches with in-house movements. The company emphasizes domestic production of all part...
SJX Watches
Stellar Sequel: Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space Blue
British designer Oliver Gallaugher (O.G) has unveiled the Deep Space Blue, a compact follow-up to the debut Deep Space launched two years ago. The refined sizing is thanks to a new movement that’s both smaller and better-equipped than the out-going Unitas 6498-based platform. The 35-piece limited edition features a blued-hued dial with the same stellar theme of the original. To top it off, each dial features a unique pattern of engraved stars, making each individually numbered watch distinct from the next. Initial thoughts Oliver Gallaugher’s original Deep Space, launched in 2023, delivered an interesting and well-executed dial in a watch that wasn’t unnecessarily expensive. I appreciate that O.G has not moved aggressively upmarket with the sequel, as seems to be the trend for independents. Instead, the Deep Space Blue is slightly smaller and slightly nicer, while being only slightly more expensive, resulting in an improved value proposition. The revised dial is largely identical to that of the first generation Deep Space, aside from its blue colour and smaller size. The intersteller theme is conveyed clearly by the design, and no two will be alike; each dial will have unique and recognisable star pattern. The design looks as good in blue as in its original grey, which makes one wonder what it might look like in black or even burgundy. The brand did redesign the hands for the new edition, which were previously flat, matte, and bimetallic. The hands are now polished a...
Teddy Baldassarre
The 38 Best Dress Watches for 2026
Most watch aficionados consider a go-to dress watch to be a necessary addition to any collection, whether it’s a piece designated for wear only on special occasions or one worn daily to the office. Along with sports watches, dress watches represent one of the most sought-after styles, so we’ve curated a list of the best dress watches that offer style, value, and quality at every price range. We sought out as much variety and diversity as possible with options ranging from a Timex that costs a few hundred dollars, one of the best Seiko values out there, a solid gold Rolex Day-Date, and independent options from the likes of Moser and F.P. Journe. So, here are our standout dress watches for 2026 organized from least to most expensive (and with some handy chapters organized for you). [toc-section heading="Under $2,000"] Timex Marlin For decades, Timex focused on affordable, mass-produced quartz watches, but recently the company has tapped into the mechanical market with the Marlin Collection. There is a 40mm automatic movement option with a wider array of dial options including eye-catching “Cali Dials”. Timex is light on the mechanical movement specs other than to note they are provided by a Chinese supplier, which isn’t surprising given the $319 price tag, making it one of the more affordable mechanical options available. Case: 34mm, Thickness 10mm, Lug-To-Lug: 41mm, Lug Width: 18mm Crystal: Acrylic Movement: Hand Winding or Automatic Mechanical, Water-Resist...
Monochrome
Introducing - The RGM 501 Teddy Baldassarre Edition
RGM Watch Company is part of a small and exclusive club of American watchmakers that are truly vertically integrated. Based in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania, Roland G. Murphy’s atelier produces multiple in-house calibres and complex, hand-made Guilloché dials via antique rose engine lathes. Teddy Baldassarre is a huge figure in the watch community with over 1.3 […]