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Results for Spring Drive (9R65 / 9R86)

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How a Rolex Sky-Dweller inspired this boxer to go from working in McDonalds to become World Champion Time+Tide
Rolex Sky-Dweller inspired Mar 24, 2021

How a Rolex Sky-Dweller inspired this boxer to go from working in McDonalds to become World Champion

There are easier ways of making a living than becoming a professional boxer. To win a world title requires almost pathological commitment with boxers typically training three times a day, doing roadwork first thing, strength and conditioning at midday, before honing their ringcraft with sparring, pads and bags in the afternoon. Throw in the dietary … ContinuedThe post How a Rolex Sky-Dweller inspired this boxer to go from working in McDonalds to become World Champion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What super-collector Roni Madhvani thinks about the steel sports watch craze Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Jan 6, 2021

What super-collector Roni Madhvani thinks about the steel sports watch craze

Roni Madhvani is one of the biggest vintage watch aficionados on the planet. His Instagram page – @roni_m_29 – is the stuff of legend and showcases his treasure trove of some of the rarest and most eccentric timepieces from the likes of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Cartier. Conspicuously, however, it’s one of the few … ContinuedThe post What super-collector Roni Madhvani thinks about the steel sports watch craze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: De Bethune DB28XP SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28XP Despite being only Jul 16, 2020

Up Close: De Bethune DB28XP

Despite being only 18 years old, De Bethune has managed to create a surprisingly large number of unique and emblematic case designs, along with a slew of complications and movement innovations. But its signature case design is probably the DB28, a large, thin watch with a pair of sprung, pivoted lugs. For the 10th anniversary of the DB28, De Bethune has slimmed it down to create the DB28XP. Significantly thinner and slightly more wearable, the DB28XP is still instantly recognisable for what it is. Dial detail of the DB28XP Starry Sky Initial thoughts The DB28XP is a smartly conceived watch because it manages to capture everything that made the DB28 special, except in a thinner case that feels more refined and is clearly more elegant. The original DB28 wasn’t excessively thick, but the DB28XP is substantially thinner, thin enough it feels a little like a sci-fi dress watch. The DB28XP wears sleek and light, with the “floating” lugs hugging the wrist comfortably, while the aesthetic is clearly quintessential De Bethune, which means polished or heat-blued titanium. And though it’s slimmer than the original, the DB28XP is still executed to the same level of quality, down to the smallest of details. The teeth of the barrel ratchet wheel of the movement are polished, for instance, while the hands are either polished titanium or pink gold, depending in the version. The original DB28 (top) and the DB28XP But the DB28XP is a little fancier than the original in design, with...

IN-DEPTH: The Rolex Explorer II Ref.216570, sleeper classic or on the brink of extinction? Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer II Ref.216570 sleeper May 19, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The Rolex Explorer II Ref.216570, sleeper classic or on the brink of extinction?

Let me start this review with an admission: I thought the Big Crown was going to turf many of its current models in 2020. The Milgauss, for example, is well past due for an evolution from its current form, if it remains at all. Likewise, the Air-King – which stylistically borrowed heavily from a set … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Rolex Explorer II Ref.216570, sleeper classic or on the brink of extinction? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: De Grisogono Declares Bankruptcy SJX Watches
Jan 29, 2020

Business News: De Grisogono Declares Bankruptcy

Swiss jeweller De Grisogono, which in its prime was one of the most extravagant brands on the planet, has just filed for bankruptcy in Geneva, as a result of Luanda Leaks, the financial scandal that has engulfed Isabel dos Santos, the daughter of Angola’s former president, reports Swiss newspapers Tribune de Geneve and Le Temps. Luanda Leaks, a trove of leaked documents published by investigative news organisation ICIJ, revealed Angolan state funds were allegedly channeled to Ms dos Santos, helping make her the richest woman in Africa. Even before the leaked documents, Ms dos Santos and her family were already under pressure from her father’s successor, who has vowed to root out corruption in the oil-rich African nation. According to the documents, a portion of went to fund De Grisogono, which was acquired by a Angolan investors in 2012. The investment was led by Ms dos Santos’ husband, Sindika Dokolo, but allegedly funded by Sodiam, Angola’s state-owned diamond company. With De Grisogono continuing to lose money since 2012, the brand’s owners had been hawking De Grisogono for some time with no luck, and Luanda Leaks were the final nail in the coffin – the brand declared bankruptcy on Tuesday, January 28, 2020. The King of Black Diamonds Founded by Fawaz Gruosi in 1993, De Grisogono was perhaps most famous for its incredibly lavish annual party at the Cannes Film Festival – reputedly costing as much as 3 million francs in some years – that everyone who ...

Recommended Watching: Roger W. Smith Explains History of the Mechanical Watch SJX Watches
Roger W. Smith Dec 18, 2019

Recommended Watching: Roger W. Smith Explains History of the Mechanical Watch

Just over two weeks ago the annual George Daniels lecture took place at the City University of London, an institution supported by the late watchmaker’s charitable trust. This year’s speaker at the sold-out event was none other than Roger W. Smith, protege and successor to Daniels. Just over an hour long, including questions, the lecture is erudite, accessible and packed with nerdy trivia, like the fact that a movement running at 28,800 beats per hour will make 252,288,000 vibrations per year. Roger explained the history and rationale behind the mechanical watch, and how watchmakers are working to improve it even today. That naturally led into the lubrication-free co-axial escapement invented by Daniels (pictured above), which Roger delves into in a satisfyingly detailed manner, like comparing the sliding friction of a lever escapement against the tangential impulse of the co-axial. Fortunately, the entire proceedings were recorded and are now available online:  

Cartier Opens ‘Crystallisation Of Time’ Exhibition in Tokyo SJX Watches
Cartier Opens ‘Crystallisation Oct 8, 2019

Cartier Opens ‘Crystallisation Of Time’ Exhibition in Tokyo

In the tradition of its extravagant exhibitions, Cartier has recently opened Cartier, Crystallisation Of Time in Tokyo’s National Art Centre. Made up of some 300 items, ranging from jewels to clocks to objet d’art, the exhibition is the third Cartier exhibition in Japan since the 1990s (and the 34th globally). Notably, half the exhibits are on loan from private collections, with the rest being from the Cartier Collection, the jeweller’s own trove of over 3000 items spanning 1860 to the modern day. More unusually, this is the first exhibition that includes contemporary Cartier creations from the 1970s and later, in contrast to past events that only included historical objects. The exhibition explores the jeweller’s rich history by juxtaposing vintage jewels, timepieces and objects against their modern equivalents or relations. So a lavish portico mystery clock made of gold, rock crystal and onyx from 1923 sits beside a 2016 mysterious tourbillon pocket watch hanging in its rock crystal and jade stand. Large ‘Portique’ mystery clock (left); and mysterious tourbillon pocket watch with stand Desk clock, circa 1929, made of ebonite, mother-of-pearl, and coral (left); and magnetic clock from 2016, in white gold, lapis lazuli, and mother-of-pearl It’s organised into three themes, detailing the jeweller’s work in materials, design, and cultural inspiration. The two scarab motif jewels, for instance, are six decades apart, but share the same Ancient Egyptian theme...

Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue “The Hour Glass” SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue Jul 24, 2019

Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue “The Hour Glass”

De Bethune is the latest amongst a number of watchmakers to take the covers off a commemorative edition to mark the 40th anniversary of Singapore watch retail powerhouse The Hour Glass. For the occasion, De Bethune has put together a variant of its signature DB28 with sprung lugs that’s entirely clad in brilliant, blued titanium. First unveiled in polished titanium in 2018, the Steel Wheels is essentially a DB28 wearing a little less. A partially open-worked dial – which is actually the delta-shaped barrel bridge – reveals its pair of skeletonised barrels and gears. While the original Steel Wheels captures the essence of De Bethune, combining its trademark design with the brand’s fundamental technical innovations, it was lacking a generous dose of blued titanium, a gorgeous, heat-treated alloy that is synonymous with the brand. Colour consistency That has now been rectified with the DB28 Steel Wheels Blue, arguably the purest – and bluest – distillation of the brand’s core values and technical achievements. It features an intense, mirror-polished, blued titanium case and dial that form a striking contrast against the exposed inner mechanics. Though blued titanium is also used by other brands today, De Bethune was amongst the first to mirror-polish its titanium cases and more crucially, started using heat treatment to blue titanium way back in 2006. An example of an early De Bethune using blued titanium, a DB25L from 2010 with a blued dial...

EVENT: Watches, whisky, Brownlows – Tissot hosts 6 of the best for AFL’s big night Time+Tide
Tissot hosts 6 Sep 24, 2018

EVENT: Watches, whisky, Brownlows – Tissot hosts 6 of the best for AFL’s big night

Last night the Australian Football League (AFL) celebrated its night of nights, the Brownlow Medal. Regarded as one of the most important events on the Australian sporting calendar, it’s akin to American Football’s Heisman Trophy or the world game’s Ballon d’Or. Needless to say, it’s kind of a big deal around these parts. Especially (at … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Watches, whisky, Brownlows – Tissot hosts 6 of the best for AFL’s big night appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: 15 exceptional watches from the Omega Museum Time+Tide
Omega Museum Editors note Jul 2, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: 15 exceptional watches from the Omega Museum

Editors note: At the moment, the Time+Tide team members whose names don’t begin with ‘A’ and end with ‘ndrew McUtchen’ are pretty jelly of Andrew McUtchen, who is, as we speak, ensconced in the bosom of Omega’s home turf, to celebrate an incredible (and incredibly rare reissue of Omega’s first ever chronograph - the handsome … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 15 exceptional watches from the Omega Museum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Seamaster Railmaster Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Railmaster Mar 11, 2018

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Seamaster Railmaster

The story in a second: Behind the ultra-hyped trilogy models lays this cool, calm and not-in-any-way limited take on the Railmaster. Odd as it may seem today, but many of the enduring designs of mid-twentieth century watchmaking sprang from a very specific purpose: scientific exploration and the quest for accuracy. The Omega Railmaster, one of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Omega Seamaster Railmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Retro Rado – the funkadelic HyperChrome 1616 Time+Tide
Rado Feb 19, 2017

HANDS-ON: Retro Rado – the funkadelic HyperChrome 1616

When our good friend Justin Mastine-Frost was assembling his lists of last year’s best watches at various budgets, one entry in the 3-4k category sprung out – the Hyperchrome 1616. And no, not just because of how huge it is. The reason it stood out is because it challenges many of the stereotypes and preconceptions about Rado watches. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Retro Rado – the funkadelic HyperChrome 1616 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHSPOTTING: Forget Roger Federer’s Rolex Batman – his wife Mirka’s Day-Date is the real champion Time+Tide
Richard Mille RM 27-02 tourbillon worn Jan 31, 2017

WATCHSPOTTING: Forget Roger Federer’s Rolex Batman – his wife Mirka’s Day-Date is the real champion

While most eyes were on Roger Federer and the Rolex GMT Master-II BLNR he strapped on to hoist his 18th grand slam trophy at the Australian Open in Melbourne on Sunday night, there were other watches nearby worth noticing. Yes, there was the Richard Mille RM 27-02 tourbillon worn by Nadal throughout all five sets – … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: Forget Roger Federer’s Rolex Batman – his wife Mirka’s Day-Date is the real champion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: See the world in colour with Montblanc’s 4810 Orbis Terrarum Time+Tide
Montblanc s 4810 Orbis Terrarum Nov 2, 2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: See the world in colour with Montblanc’s 4810 Orbis Terrarum

[su_vimeo url=”https://vimeo.com/157997150″] When I was in high school we had to buy an atlas/geography textbook from a publisher called Heinemann. Don’t ask me why I remember this – it’s just one of the scores of useless trivia facts that are stuck in my head, while much more important information (such as reference numbers and calibre names) seem … ContinuedThe post GONE IN 60 SECONDS: See the world in colour with Montblanc’s 4810 Orbis Terrarum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor complex for complexity’s sake? Revolution
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor complex Jan 21, 2013

Is the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor complex for complexity’s sake?

The design of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor is the most interesting thing about it. This statement is not as disparaging as it sounds. In fact, it’s quite the opposite. What I’m saying is - despite the intriguing premise of a watch equipped with four sprung balances of identical frequency linked by differentials to form what […]