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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Piaget It’s Trading Faces time! Jul 19, 2023

TRADING FACES: Why I just gave up five Kurono watches for this one Piaget

It’s Trading Faces time! For those tuning in for the first time, Trading Faces is a column in which I break down genuine watch trades I have made in my collection. I love writing this column, not only because it means there is a new and exciting, at least for me, watch in my collection, but also because it … ContinuedThe post TRADING FACES: Why I just gave up five Kurono watches for this one Piaget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Nodus Auctions off their Limited Jul 18, 2023

Nodus Auctions off their Limited Edition Collaboration with the Atlanta RedBar Chapter for a Great Cause

Nodus fans take note: a rare version of the Sector GMT is about to be sold at auction for a worthy cause, and you can bid on it until the auction closes tomorrow. This limited edition was created in partnership with RedBar’s Atlanta chapter, and features some distinctive details that make this version particularly rewarding for Atlanta residents, but it’s also just a nice looking execution of an already attractive watch, and we think it can be enjoyed just as easily north of the Mason-Dixon line. Or in Nodus’ hometown on the west coast. You get the idea.  The dial is black with red accents, a nod to the colors of the Atlanta Falcons football franchise, and features an image of the Atlanta skyline on the caseback, along with the RedBar logo and limited edition number. This particular watch carries the “00/50” designation, and is the last remaining of the limited run (all 50 watches in the limited edition were claimed by Atlanta RedBar members when the watch was unveiled in April). The Sector GMT is a classically proportioned sports watch (it measures 38mm in diameter) filtered through the Nodus contemporary design language and point of view. Like other watches in the Sector collection, the GMT makes use of a multi piece dial with distinct layers, creating a unique sense of depth and calling attention to the finishing and materials Nodus is using. This collection has grown and matured a great deal in just a few years, with a total of six models spanning every vari...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Formex Gets Jul 18, 2023

Formex Gets in on the Summer Watch Act with the New Essence Splash Collection

Windup Watch Fair Chicago is officially in the rearview mirror, and as we come up for air from another successful event in the Windy City, it’s time to take stock of some of the new releases that saw their debut at the show. Windup is increasingly becoming a venue for brands to unveil new releases to a captive audience, and this year’s Chicago show saw a handful of both completely new and iterative drops that had watch enthusiasts buzzing all weekend. Formex is just one example, bringing a new collection of Essence references in 39mm and 43mm case sizes with bold colors that make an already fun sports watch just a little more vibrant.  The new Essence Splash Chronometer Limited Collection feature dials that are hand-sprayed with bright and bold colors in the brand’s Swiss dial manufacture. The colors range from pastel shades to bold neon, with the full lineup including Sunflower Yellow, Jungle Green, Sunset Orange, Baby Blue, and Lavender Purple. The distinctive feature of the Essence dial, the CNC machined horizontal lines that are run across it, remain in this collection. These dials have a matte finish, which makes the colors pop and appear more uniform, and stands in contrast to other Essence dials that are a bit more reflective.  The Splash collection appears across both the 39mm Essence in stainless steel as well as the 43mm Essence Leggera with a case made from carbon and ceramic components. Seeing them in person at Windup, the larger Essence Leggera dials r...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Patek Philippe Jul 16, 2023

Thai Customs admits selling fake luxury watches in auction including pieces from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Richard Mille

Watch lovers are always on the lookout for ways to source highly in-demand pieces at prices that aren’t totally bananas. One potential avenue for this are those auctions held by police or government authorities. These often feature items that have been seized or repossessed, because if an asset was used in a crime, owned by … ContinuedThe post Thai Customs admits selling fake luxury watches in auction including pieces from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Richard Mille appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won Jul 16, 2023

HANDS-ON: Why the new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won me over with its quiet luxury appeal

This year the Bulgari Octo Roma received a long overdue makeover that brings it more in line with its more flashy sibling Finissimo. Not only do the changes add welcome continuity across the collection, but also a little extra elegance to the collection’s more affordable but no less delightful offering. I would hazard a guess … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Why the new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won me over with its quiet luxury appeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Doxa Sub 300T Caribbean – Jul 14, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Ben Roth

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Ben Roth shares a trio of all-time classics that span genres and styles. We love this collection for its authenticity and inspiration, with all three of these watches actually appearing in Ben’s collection.  If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I gave myself an additional challenge when choosing my three watches for $5,000, in that I didn’t want to put anything on the list that I actually own. What I wanted to dig into is exactly what I look for in the watches I wear and what pieces completely reflect what I’m looking for (and stay within the price limit.) What came from this challenge is a sharp and subtle collection that references my favorite books and movies while also being completely functional for everything life can throw at a person. Doxa Sub 300T Caribbean – $1,890 A Doxa Sub 300T was the first watch I thought of for this collection, and I was originally going to pick the black Sharkhunter colorway. The blue Caribbean won out, however, because if I were ever to do the impossible and become a one watch guy a blue dive watch would be my pick. The Caribbean colorway honors that, and if the Sub 300T is good enough for the likes of Dirk Pitt and Robert Redford in Three Days of the Condor then it’s certainly good enough for me. It would also be amazing on a nato strap for the summer, and I could see myself wearing...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

TAG Heuer 5th Ave Boutique Well Jul 14, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Skippers and stars celebrate opening of new TAG Heuer 5th Ave Boutique

Well, it is fair to say that TAG Heuer made the biggest waves this week – opening their new 5th Ave Flagship Boutique and launching a new and long awaited watch in the same day. Located at 645 5th Avenue in New York City, TAG Heuer invited press, friends of the brand, and TAG Heuer … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Skippers and stars celebrate opening of new TAG Heuer 5th Ave Boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Omega Seamaster Jul 13, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Diver Chronographs, & One Full Kit Benrus

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Wittnauer Geneve Starting this week off with a unique vintage Wittnauer Geneve. The 34mm stainless steel case has a neat octagonal design, one you don’t see often. I think they really pulled it off in this case (pun intended), especially with the large lug bevels. Case looks unpolished and still shows the brushed finish. The two-tone silver bullseye dial with crosshairs is a stunner, and in fantastic condition. No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs, and that the movement is a manual wind. Speaking of which, the winding crown is signed with the Wittnauer “W” logo to boot. View auction here. Vintage Omega Seamaster This vintage Omega Seamaster is a real beauty for those that love patina. This is housed in the classic fat lug, wide bezel Seamaster 34mm steel case that is so desired by Omega collectors. The fat lugs have nice, sharp chamfers as they should since the case is unpolished. It is sadly becoming more and more of a rarity to find an unpolished Seamaster. The dial has stylized Arabic numerals at 12, 3 and 9, with slim arrows for the other markers, and a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. This dial used to be a silver/white, but has developed a beaut...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Bulova Oceanographer Watch collecting has Jul 13, 2023

Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer

Watch collecting has a few rites of passage: Buying an Invicta on vacation. Eagerly purchasing too many watches and quickly filling a watch box. Experiencing buyer’s remorse and selling those watches to recover funds for future purchases. Seller’s remorse setting in, followed by repurchasing watches. With one exception, the Bulova Oceanographer helped me check all of those boxes. I purchased my first Oceanographer during the buying/selling frenzy many enthusiasts go through. Seeing watches in stores and at meetups is cool, but can’t compete with the experience of ownership. Ownership removes the fear of scratching a watch while learning how it feels in 90% humidity. It allows you to test if a bezel still turns after a day at the beach, and to find those annoying design flaws that only become apparent after a few days on the wrist.  $750 Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 821D Dial Black Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Bracelet/rubber strap Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 44 x 46mm Thickness 15mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $750 For a couple years, I had a watch coming and going every month. It was a constant game of hunting for opportunities, always selling, trading and buying. Sometimes I’d make $50, sometimes I’d lose $50. Sometimes I’d organize a trade on Reddit, and anxiously wait to see if the person on the other end of the deal was scamming me (they never were)...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

TAG Heuer Hits Jul 13, 2023

TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph

These are the kinds of midweek surprises I can get on board with. TAG Heuer has revealed a new Carrera Skipper chronograph in the 39mm chassis we saw (and loved) earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. This is a regular production variant of the Carrera that makes excellent use of the sublime Skipper colorway we first saw in the late ‘60s, and most recently in the 2017 limited edition Carrera Skipper for Hodinkee. The color scheme feels right at home in the modern Carrera shoes, with plenty of small details to discover along the way. Best of all, it doesn’t feel like a vintage recreation, it feels purely modern through and through, taking full advantage of the new ‘glassbox’ design of the Carrera.  The latest Carrera sports a range of blue, green, and orange hues in a reflection of the original colorway which made the watch so distinctive. The base dial is a deep blue with contrasting seafoam hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and multicolor minute totalizer at 3 o’clock, which splits the counter into 5 minute segments to more accurately find your position going into the start of a yacht race. The final five minutes, as well as the timing seconds hand, are rendered in orange, denoting their importance to the operation. There is a running seconds hand within a third, almost hidden sub dial appearing at 6 o’clock, which isn’t framed and thus is the same color as the base of the dial. Only the indexes and the hand itself give its position away. The unique new ‘gl...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Frederique Constant Review Brand History Jul 12, 2023

Frederique Constant Review: Brand History and All the Major Watch Coll

Frederique Constant has been making watches for only 35 years, but the Geneva-based brand’s list of accomplishments, and its impressive and diverse roster of timepieces, might well convince you that it has been at the horology game much longer. In this feature, we trace the history of Frederique Constant, showcase its plentiful milestones over the course of three-plus decades, and introduce you to the standout models in the current Frederique Constant collection. 1988: The Foundations When Dutch entrepreneur Peter Stas and his wife Aletta Stas-Bax set out to establish the Swiss watch manufacturer Frederique Constant in 1988, they were rolling the dice on a business plan that was anything but a sure thing. The Quartz Crisis that had ravaged the traditional Swiss watch industry since the 1970s was still ongoing and the return of the luxury mechanical watch to prominence and collectibility had yet to ramp up in a major way. However, both the timing of the launch and the underserved niche that it targeted - affordable, elegant watches with Swiss mechanical movements for enthusiasts with relatively modest budgets - proved to be wise, as evidenced by the company still going strong in its 35th year, with an impressive string of milestones under its belt, which we’ll touch on below. Frederique Constant is today one of the largest Swiss watchmaking firms; the company doesn't disclose production numbers, but Peter Stas stated in 2019 that the goal was to increase capacity fr...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

H. Moser & Cie Jul 12, 2023

Biver’s Creation for Only Watch 2023: A Repeater with No Hands

Shortly after the release of their initial timepiece, the Carillon Tourbillon, Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre are making their debut at Only Watch with the Catharsis. A bold take on the chiming watch, this unique piece has no hands on the dial, but indicates the time with the carillon minute repeater. The dial is instead decorated with a mixture of gemstones, semi-precious stone marquetry, and guilloché to create an abstract scene depicting the Moon over a seascape. Inside is a variant of the movement as Biver’s first watch, but with an hour hand on the reverse. Initial thoughts  The father-and-son duo behind Biver have to be commended for a daring debut at Only Watch, even though the watch will no doubt be polarising. They have gone extremely conceptual with the Catharsis. The idea of creating a watch with no visible way of telling the time is nothing new, having been done recently by H. Moser & Cie. in 2019 and earlier by Haldimann and Romain Jerome. However, the Catharsis aims to make a statement and chart a course for this newly minted independent brand. The aesthetics of original Biver repeater model were mixed, so this watch actually addresses that issue in a weird yet logical manner. The visual focus of the watch is the dial, which is not really a dial but a canvas for elaborate decoration. The 89 sapphires that make up the waves have been invisibly set and create a pleasing effect alongside the meteorite moon, silver obsidian sky and mother of pearl stars...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Jul 12, 2023

Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan 2026

Patek Philippe recently concluded its biggest Watch Art Grand Exhibition to date with the Tokyo exhibition. The event in the Japanese capital showcased almost 500 timepieces, along with limited editions and Rare Handcrafts created especially for the event, which were seen by some 60,000 visitors at the end of its two-week run in Shinjuku. Now the event will return to Europe in October 2026, taking place in Milan, the commercial capital of a country that was historically a great consumer of Patek Philippe wristwatches. The Rare Handcrafts Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-025 “Snow-Covered Landscape” made for Watch Art Tokyo 2023 The Milan exhibition will be the seventh Watch Art exhibition after Dubai (2012), Munich (2013), London (2015), New York (2017), Singapore (2019), and Tokyo (2023). Originally planned for 2025 but later rescheduled, the Milan event will take place October 2-18, 2026. It will be open to the public at no charge. More details will be provided in due time. Update August 15, 2025: Dates of exhibition corrected.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Richard Mille Jul 12, 2023

Only Watch 2023 Lots 49 - 62: Including the Wildest Story (Richard Mille) and a Light Sabre Clock (Urwerk)

In this last of the four-part series, we look at Only Watch 2023 Lots 49-62. While there are many fantastic watches here, Ian Skellern particularly likes the imaginative story of Lot 51, the Richard MilleTalisman Origine and the space-age design of Lot 60, the Urwerk Space-Time Blade.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Jul 11, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in Chicago This Weekend…

Now in its ninth year, and second in Chicago, the Windup Watch Fair is quickly becoming a fixture of the Chicago watch community. This weekend, enthusiasts, collectors, and newbies alike will gather to shop and talk watches-and this year, there are even more events to participate in! Not only are there over 60 brands to check out at the Fair, as well as a full slate of FREE panels and programming. Read through the full rundown of special events below, but first, let’s remind everyone of the basics. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. We’re able to offer this open access with the support of our presenting partners and, most importantly, our Lead Sponsors. This year’s Lead Sponsors include Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, Oris, and Zodiac. All of these brands will have a significant presence within the Fair, with dynamic booth spaces and special events. Throughout the days, attendees can expect the latest watch releases, a live auction, a full cash bar, dedicated lounge spaces, outdoor space, as well as an on-site watchmaker to adjust and swap straps for your newest or favorite collection pieces. We’re beyond excited to be joined by over 60 presenting brands this year. The full roster of brands includes: And as a reminder, the event location and hours are as follows: Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 14: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Now, ont...

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SJX Watches

Jul 11, 2023

Business News: Watches & Wonders Announces 2024 Dates

Building on the success of this year’s edition, the world’s largest luxury watch fair returns next year: Watches & Wonders 2024 will take place once again at the Palexpo convention centre in Geneva from April 9-15, 2023, with the last three days being open to the public. The 2023 event saw a record 43,000 visitors attend, almost double the number in 2022. Next year’s Watches & Wonders (W&W;) will probably be even bigger. The list of participating brands for next year’s fair will be announced at a later date, though it is expected that the tally will rise compared to this year’s instalment. At the same time, W&W; next year will include three “public days” at the end where anyone can buy a ticket to enter, an increase over the two days of 2023. The growing list of exhibiting brands and additional public days furthers the event’s goal of making itself more accessible, while still enabling members of the trade, namely press and retailers, to attend the fair during the trade-only period during the first four days of the event. The increase in both exhibitors and public days brings the event closer to the model of Baselworld, which welcomed exhibitors and visitors from everywhere. And as was the case this year, brands with boutiques in downtown Geneva, mainly on the Rue du Rhône, will organise in-store events in addition to the goings-on inside Palexpo. These city events will be primarily for the public and clients.  

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Jul 11, 2023

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R

Because it has a strongly defined identity and direction, Patek Philippe rarely surprises. The limited editions created for the recent Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, for instance, were interesting and occasionally exceptionally complicated but predictable. However, Patek Philippe did surprise, albeit subtly, at Watches & Wonders earlier this year with the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R. Though the ref. 5224R is typical Patek Philippe in every aspect, from the slim case to the vintage-meets-modern design, it is distinctly different from the brand’s other offerings in both look and feel. Besides the 24-hour dial, a first for the brand in the modern day, the 42 mm case is also oversized by Patek Philippe standards. Despite being novel amongst current Patek Philippe offerings, the ref. 5224R is rooted in the brand’s history, being almost a direct descendent of the 24-hour-dial Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. Initial thoughts The ref. 5224R was instantly appealing when I saw it at Watches & Wonders. It is a large watch, but still elegant. And despite being a relatively simple watch – it’s essentially a two-time zone watch – the ref. 5224R has several interesting features both in terms of design and mechanics. The most obvious is the 24-hour dial. At a glance, it’s a peculiar feature for a modern Patek Philippe wristwatch, but it looks good and actually makes sense. Though it takes some getting used to when readin...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Zodiac Adds Jul 10, 2023

Zodiac Adds a White Ceramic Super Sea Wolf to the Collection in Three Bold Colorways

At the end of last year, Zodiac introduced a new ceramic version of their popular Super Sea Wolf dive watch. The stealthy black diver put a new, contemporary spin on a platform that’s existed for almost as long as dive watches themselves, and felt like a natural evolution of the Sea Wolf line. After all, plenty of brands are using ceramic these days – it’s a worthy material by any measure and makes a lot of sense for sports watches in particular, given its light weight and resistance to scratches and wear. Now, Zodiac has introduced a follow up, a ceramic Super Sea Wolf in a crisp white with brightly colored dials, just in time for the true dog days of summer.  These watches play into a tried and true formula that has served Zodiac remarkably well over the last years, which is to lean into bold colors layered over their classic dive watch design. The new white ceramic watches will be available in three variants: dark blue, lime green, and a silver and orange watch that feels like a nod to their popular “Sherbet” GMT from a few years ago. All of the dials have a subtle sunburst finish and the traditional rectangular hands and hour markers that are common to the Super Sea Wolf line. The case construction is the same as last year’s black ceramic model, which means these watches have what is essentially a ceramic shell that is fit over a steel core. The white color of the case and bezel makes for a great complement to the bold dial colors and accents, and immediat...

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D Deployant

Deployant

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde ... Jul 10, 2023

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

‘Tis the season for retrograde date displays here at Vacheron Constantin, a functionality that has been in the family since the 1920s. This year, no fewer than three new models were introduced at Watches & Wonders celebrating the spritely complication, one of which was the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. Review: VC Traditionnelle Tourbillon RetrogradeRead More

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SJX Watches

Omega Jul 10, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC30 “Only Watch 2023”

For its second outing at Only Watch, Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) created the AdC30, which takes the independent watchmaker’s proven formula to a new level with an in-house movement, a new case design, and a handmade dial.  Initial thoughts The AdC30 stands out from most of the other lots in the upcoming Only Watch auction due to its restraint. While most of the other lots are characterised by their use, or overuse, of bright colours, the AdC30 sticks to the mid-century motifs that have enabled the brand to establish a distinctive brand identity in just nine years – no easy feat for a brand that exclusively produces one-off watches by special order. This coherent aesthetic is no doubt thanks to founder Santi Martinez’s cultivated eye for detail. AdC’s watches are perhaps best described as a love letter to classical designs and the single-minded chronometric purpose of wristwatches of the 1940’s. Since its founding in 2014, the brand has focused on producing bespoke watches built around vintage Omega and Venus movements, which are upgraded in-house to meet contemporary haute horlogerie standards.  But earlier this year, AdC introduced the AdC22 featuring the M284, the brand’s first in-house movement. The AdC30 is the second publicly announced watch to use this movement, though the gap between the model numbers (which are usually consecutive) suggests there may be other watches with this movement that have been commissioned by collectors. Rega...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Jul 7, 2023

Guide: Some of Our Favorite Summer-Ready EDC Gear

Whether it’s travel or staying close to home and relaxing, there’s always some room in your EDC to add some new gear. That’s half the fun of it – looking at your daily essentials and refining them to fit your individual needs. It’s an ongoing journey that focuses on having the right gear for the job. It’s no secret that we’re all pretty big gear fans at the Windup Watch Shop, so putting together some of our favorite Summer-ready EDC gear was a no-brainer. Let’s take a look at some brand new gear in the shop that’s sure to come in handy. Whether it’s travel or staying close to home and relaxing, there’s always some room in your EDC to add some new gear. That’s half the fun of it – looking at your daily essentials and refining them to fit your individual needs. It’s an ongoing journey that focuses on having the right gear for the job. It’s no secret that we’re all pretty big gear fans at the Windup Watch Shop, so putting together some of our favorite Summer-ready EDC gear was a no-brainer. Let’s take a look at some brand new gear in the shop that’s sure to come in handy. The post Guide: Some of Our Favorite Summer-Ready EDC Gear appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono Back Jul 6, 2023

Celebrating 50 Years of Being Fashionably On Time with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono

Back in January of 1973, Citizen, a pioneering Japanese watchmaking house, released a unique riff on a watch that they’d launched only a few months earlier. The watch was their very first mechanical chronograph. This version had the chronograph pushers situated at the top of the case, rather than on the side, in what’s affectionately referred to as a bullhead configuration called the Citizen Challenge Timer. Fans would soon nickname the “Tsuno Chrono” and its instantly recognizable 70s tones and panda dial layout would make this particular variant a legend. Fast forward to August 1, 2019, when a young watch journalist, and co-founder of a particular watch enthusiast publication, would rush home from a movie theater to research a timepiece he’d seen on screen. Zach Weiss had just finished viewing Quentin Tarantino’s critically acclaimed ninth film, Once Upon a Time … In Hollywood. Here’s an excerpt from the article he penned and published immediately thereafter. The film went on to be nominated for a total of ten Academy Awards at the 2020 Oscars and won two including Best Supporting Actor for Brad Pitt, which further cemented his role and this watch into absolute icon status. Despite a blatant continuity error, it’s clear that this was not a miscasting. It was still the right watch, on the right wrist, in the right role, at the right time. Now, 50 years later from the introduction of the original Tsuno Chrono, Citizen has reimagined the concept, form fact...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Tudor launched Jul 6, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: The Black Bay 54 - A Black Bay to Rule them All?

It’s amazing to look back to 2018 and see the utter excitement and disbelief I felt when Tudor launched the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, a sentiment that was shared by many. It seemed as though our hopes and prayers had been answered. Finally, a vintage-inspired dive watch with a great movement at a smaller size, by a brand with provenance. While that seems like daily news in 2023, a sub-40mm dive watch, at the time, from a major Swiss brand was still hard to come by. It was clear Tudor had a hit. And, as per usual, we expected they would capitalize on that hit. In the conclusion of my review from 2019, I say “…it’s likely they will expand greatly on the collection.” I was wrong, and this is where the story of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, and Tudor, takes a slightly different direction. Rather than doing what most brands do, including themselves with other models, they pumped the brakes. The rainbow of options never came, instead, there were a total of five variations broken down as two in steel, a silver model (still crazy), a solid gold, and a bronze boutique edition. Not what we expected. 37mm is just right Tudor then left the Black Bay Fifty-Eight behind for a while, coming out instead with a series of unexpected sports watches in new-ish platforms. The Pelagos FXD, while part of their larger tech diver line, featured a different case, modified dial and bezel designs, and a genuine military tie-in. The Black Bay Pro put their GMT and a date complication into a 39mm c...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Girard-Perregaux Introduces Jul 6, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Neo Constant Escapement for Only Watch

A regular participant at Only Watch, Girard-Perregaux’s latest contribution to the charity auction, the Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch 2023, revisits its innovation constant-force escapement. Girard-Perregaux (GP) first unveiled the Constant Escapement in 2013 as a wristwatch with a unique, dual-wheel escapement with an integral constant-force silicon buckling spring. Ten years on, the Neo Constant Escapement is a revamp of the original concept with incremental upgrades to the mechanism. Initial thoughts The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is not merely a rehash of the original. It is a technical evolution, which is at the very minimum an academically interesting take on an already exotic escapement. The Only Watch edition is dressed in predominantly monochromatic livery with a pink gold case and movement bridges – even the mainspring barrels are pink gold. The generous use of pink gold might be polarising, which arguably makes it perfectly suited as a one-off piece that will inevitably find an eager buyer at the auction. In the grander scheme of things however, the NCE Only Watch edition marks the beginning of GP reviving the Constant Escapement. Even by today’s standards of advanced tech in watchmaking, the Constant Escapement is an integrated design comprised of a double-wheel escapement with a remontoir spring, making it an escapement unlike any other. It is admirable that the escapement has been updated for better reliability, while preserving its original ide...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ Jul 5, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On With The Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ in Steel

Last month, Oris introduced a followup collection to their incredibly popular Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection, this time rendered in 38mm steel cases. The bright dials and steel bezel works just as well here as they did in the bronze case variants from last year. These new dial colors feel right at home in the 38mm steel case, which is a first for a regular production Divers Sixty-Five watch. It should come as no surprise that the watches retain their big personality in person, which we discover in this first look at the new summer ready batch of Diver Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection. We haven’t been shy about our preference for this case size in the Diver Sixty-Five range, and we’re happy to see it make its way into a steel configuration. The bright dials feel fresh and modern, creating some potential conflict with the riveted three link bracelet that’s on offer. Thankfully that’s an easy opportunity to create a vibe of your own with a different strap, or even the perlon fabric strap that’s also offered by Oris for these watches. It’s a look that could take a number of forms depending on the strap choice. As fun as the Cotton Candy collection is, seeing this case size take hold in the regular production range of the Diver Sixty-Five offers an exciting prospect of seeing other variations take shape in the same size. It feels like only a matter of time before we see a regular black or blue dial or even a complication make its way over. Either way, t...

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W WatchAdvice

WatchAdvice

Tissot Sideral! Over Jul 4, 2023

What Its Like To Have A Holiday On Your Wrist With The New Tissot Sideral!

Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been playing around with the new Tissot Sideral collection, and at first I wasn’t sure of what to make of them. But after trying them on and wearing them, I now get it! What We Love Bright colours really popSuper comfortable to wearTotally unique look What We Don’t Strap fastening systemBezel action is roughNot an everyday watch or for everyone Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 7.5/10 Initial Thoughts When I first saw the press release on the Tissot Sideral collection (Which we covered here), I wasn’t sure what to make of them. A colourful re-invention of a sports watch from 1971 with a regatta timer – would it work? The short answer is yes, it does! A fun and playful watch, these are not to be taken seriously. Whilst the original was a serious watch 50 yeas ago, the 2023 Sideral takes that seriousness and flips it on its head. The new Tissot Sideral collection – colourful and playful! At $1,550 AUD, these are not overly expensive pieces in comparison to the larger world of luxury watches where many pieces are now into the $10,000+ range. And I’ll go out on a limb here and say these are not entry level either, despite their price. Why? Because they’re not an everyday wearing watch, they are designed to have fun with, and in my opinion, this is a watch that even seasoned collectors can add to their collection for that reason. After having all three models for a couple...

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Time+Tide

Audemars Piguet Jul 3, 2023

Holding court: Wimbledon and the next generation of tennis’ young watch ambassadors

With the recent retirements of tennis superstars Roger Federer (Rolex) and Serena Williams (Audemars Piguet), and with veterans like Rafael Nadal (Richard Mille) on the back nine of their careers, watch brands have been snapping up next-gen talent. At the start of the 2023 Wimbledon tournament, here’s a look at some of the tennis young … ContinuedThe post Holding court: Wimbledon and the next generation of tennis’ young watch ambassadors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Jul 3, 2023

Dumoreau Follows Up their Debut with an Attractive Contemporary Dress Watch

The DM02 is the sophomore release from California-based micro brand Dumoreau, following the DM01 we touched on here. Designed by architect and designer Carlo Aiello, this dress watch takes his expertise in architecture and product design into the realm of the dress watch, while drawing on basic principles of proportion to create a compelling new release that slots in nicely with his debut. The dial features a two-piece construction with recessed concentric circles at the center, complemented by a brushed circular section for numerals and minute track. The indexes maintain their orientation as they encircle the dial, while the only branding present is the hand-applied Dumoreau name, seamlessly integrated into the concentric circles. The curvaceous all-polished 39mm case directs works to draw the eye to the dial, with lyre lugs providing additional visual interest. The stated goal of the design was to create a “dynamic organic geometry,” and the end result is a case with both gentle and dramatic curves that cohere nicely with the details of the dial. The screw-in sapphire caseback exposes the manually wound Sellita SW 210-1 movement, decorated with Geneva stripes and circular graining. With dimensions of 39mm wide, 46mm lug to lug, and a slim profile of 9.5mm thanks to the hand wound caliber, the DM02 is designed to fit comfortably on wrists of all sizes. Conveniently, it boasts a water resistance rating of 100 meters, uncommon for a manually wound dress watch. The DM02 ...

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Deployant

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Jul 3, 2023

Review: the new Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph

Following the release at Wonders 2023, we had the Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph for a week. Here are our impressions after a week on the wrist.

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Worn & Wound

Furlan Marri goes Big What Jul 2, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 56: Omega goes Blue + Furlan Marri goes Big

What a week! On episode 56 of A Week in Watches we cover a lot, yet barely even scratch the surface of what launched (don’t worry, we’ll get back to it next week). We start off with a look at the second collaboration between Louis Erard and Massena LAB. From there, we descend the depths of the Omega Seamaster catalog with a special collection of 11 new watches for the lines 75th anniversary. After, there’s a speed round where we quickly cover the Tissot PRX 35mm, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Steel 38mm Cotton Candy Collection, and the Cara Barrett x Timex collab. Whew. The last segment focuses on a truly epic project by Furlan Marri, the Secular Perpetual Calendar for the upcoming Only Watch auction in November. Quite a week. This week’s sponsor is Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023! After a successful weekend in San Francisco, the highly anticipated Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the vibrant city of Chicago from Friday, July 14, through Sunday, July 16, 2023. The fair will be held at Venue West, located at 221 N Paulina St in the West Loop neighborhood of Chicago, and feature over 40 brands. Visit and follow windupwatchfair.com for the full list of participating brands. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 56: Omega goes Blue + Furlan Marri goes Big appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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