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Results for GMT & World Time

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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Chiming Watches: 12 Exceptional Minute Repeaters, Alarms, Sonneries, a Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 19, 2024

Chiming Watches: 12 Exceptional Minute Repeaters, Alarms, Sonneries, a

Chiming watches represent one of the most coveted types of complicated watches in the world - despite the fact that they are also one of the most archaic and, in practical terms, obsolete. The most popular type is the minute repeater, which chimes the time audibly on demand; it was invented for pocket watches in the 18th and 19th Century as a practical method of alerting its wearer of the current time in the dark, in the era before electric lighting and luminous details on watch dials. Definitively regarded as more a luxury today than a tool, a minute repeater has an independent chiming mechanism with two small hammers striking coiled metal gongs, generally activated by a slide on the side of the case, to produce different tones for the hour, quarter hour, and minute. The most sophisticated of these chiming watches might also include a grande sonnerie, and/or petite sonnerie: the former perpetually strikes the hour every hour and the hour plus the quarter-hour at every quarter, without any need for the wearer to activate it with a slide; the latter strikes the hour every hour, and the quarter-hour (but not the hour) every quarter, also independently of any activation by the wearer. Sometimes the chiming functions are even coordinated with moving, elaborate dial animations called automata. Watches with chiming functions tend to be rather rare and almost always prodigiously expensive, but a handful of watchmakers have managed to create examples that are slightly less compl...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Watches With Discolored Dials - Featuring A Datejust, An Explorer II, A Cosmograph Daytona, And More… Fratello
Rolex Watches Feb 16, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Watches With Discolored Dials - Featuring A Datejust, An Explorer II, A Cosmograph Daytona, And More…

Another Friday, another Top 5! After last week’s Chinese New Year watches, it’s time to look at some production errors, specifically discolored dials. Paying extra money for a production defect seems like a crazy thing to do. In the world of Rolex, however, this is far from an uncommon phenomenon, with dials like these sometimes […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Watches With Discolored Dials - Featuring A Datejust, An Explorer II, A Cosmograph Daytona, And More… to read the full article.

A Guide to Modern California Dials Worn & Wound
Panerai which has featured watches Feb 16, 2024

A Guide to Modern California Dials

The watch industry is rife with examples of watch brands turning to the past for new releases. The interest in vintage designs has led to some fun and unique long-forgotten or long-inaccessible designs finding a new audience. Consider the Timex World Time 1972 Reissue bringing some 70s funk to the 2020s. Or the Tudor Black Bay 54 giving Rolex Submariner fans the closest thing you can get to an original Sub without spending tens of thousands of dollars. And now, in the last few years watch brands have seen fit to revisit one of the most interesting and obscure vintage designs out there: the California dial. The California dial is the nickname given to watches that have Roman numerals on the upper half of the watch and Arabic on the lower half, typically with lines at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock spots and a triangle at the 12. This unique dial has a strong association with Panerai, which has featured watches with the dial in its catalog for some time now, but, like many developments in watchmaking, it was actually created by Rolex. Patented in 1942, the dial was originally known as the “error-proof” dial, designed to be more easily read because the different style numerals “clearly distinguishes these two halves” of the watch and “the Roman numerals chosen are those which are the simplest to perform and the easiest to read.” (Seems unnecessary, but it certainly wound up looking cool.) The modern PAM01349 The error-proof dial picked up the “California” moniker w...

IFL Watches Introduces The Fun Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Space Surfer Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Space Surfer Jan 29, 2024

IFL Watches Introduces The Fun Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Space Surfer

IFL Watches is one of the remarkable success stories of the past few years within the world of watches. I vividly remember seeing the brand’s Tissot PRX Arctic Sky and Midnight Sky models for the first time. At the hands of IFLW’s artists, the PRX had transformed into something even more unique with beautiful handpainted […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Fun Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Space Surfer to read the full article.

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 900P is just 3.65mm thick yet still looks like an actual watch Time+Tide
Richard Mille Jan 27, 2024

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 900P is just 3.65mm thick yet still looks like an actual watch

I have been very happy to see ultra-thin watchmaking make a comeback as of late, but the race to be the thinnest does have its concessions. For Richard Mille, to achieve the ‘thinnest mechanical watch in the world’ title it, in my opinion, had to sacrifice looking like an actual wristwatch – more like a … ContinuedThe post The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 900P is just 3.65mm thick yet still looks like an actual watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: Monta Oceanking (Version III) Worn & Wound
Monta Jan 12, 2024

Review: Monta Oceanking (Version III)

It was early summer in 2020 and it felt like the entire world was on fire. The Coronavirus was running rampant, and the Quebec Government had instituted draconian lockdown measures, which included a nightly curfew. If residents were not in their homes by 8pm, fines were issued. It was a horrible time. My wife and I had no choice but to work from home, and both of my boys were attempting homeschooling for the first time. My oldest was in his second year of college and my youngest was in his last year of high school. We all struggled with this new way of doing things. On the bright side however, all this togetherness allowed me to introduce my kids to some of my beloved film franchises. We went through all the Die Hards, Lethal Weapons, Beverly Hills Cops and Aliens. The latter really stuck with them and my oldest found a video game called Alien Isolation, which he insisted we try. So, we did. Coincidentally Monta had sent me an OnceanKing to review and to this day, in my brain, this watch is linked to the Alien franchise and the great time I had with my boys kicking Alien posterior! I really, really liked the Monta OceanKing version II, nevertheless it was not without its flaws. Some of which have been addressed with the new version III which I’ve been lent for review. So, let’s dive in and see what they have done. The dimensions have remained very similar, with a diameter of 40.5mm (down from 40.7mm), a thickness of 12mm (same as the previous model) and a lug-to-lug le...

The Latest Oris Big Crown Pointer Date LE is a Bronze Tribute to an Iconic Cricket Ground Worn & Wound
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Jan 9, 2024

The Latest Oris Big Crown Pointer Date LE is a Bronze Tribute to an Iconic Cricket Ground

Over the last few years, the world of watches has continued to expand its reach beyond watch enthusiasts. This, in turn, has allowed brands to speak to wider audiences and forge meaningful relationships with celebrities, charities, and more. Oris is no stranger to significant partnerships with a variety of outlets, and its latest Limited Edition tells a particularly unique and historically interesting story in the world of cricket. Introducing the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Father Time Limited Edition. A bit of context: Lord’s Cricket Ground in London is widely considered the “home of cricket”. Established in 1814, it is the oldest cricket stadium known to man and is beloved the world over. The ground’s owners, the Marylebone Cricket Club (or MCC), have partnered with Oris, making the Hölstein, Switzerland based watchmaker the very first official timekeeper over the ground’s two centuries. As a result of this partnership, the Oris branding sits proudly on the famous clock tower and near the iconic Father Time weathervane, after which this new limited edition watch is named. Father Time himself is cast of iron and is seen stooping over cricket stumps as he watches over the passage of time. Now onto the watch: unsurprisingly Oris has chosen to use the Big Crown Pointer Date as the foundation. As Oris’ most famous model, the BCPD has been in constant production since 1938 and has its roots in aviation. However it has since been seen as Oris’ calling card and a...

New Year’s Resolutions Friday: Travel Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 29, 2023

New Year’s Resolutions Friday: Travel Watches

The last few months are, and always have been, the busiest time of the year to travel. In many ways, the Thanksgiving crowd is far more predictable since the holiday falls on the same day each year. The opposite is true for the end of December as family and friends hustle to jet around the country (and the world). Having a timepiece you can rely on as you make and execute your travel plans is more than a practical consideration; it can also be a comforting companion when far from home. On this edition of new Year’s Resolutions Friday, we want to highlight watches that can be such companions – this one is for all of you who are traveling this season and for those who intend to travel more in the new year. Bon voyage! The last few months are, and always have been, the busiest time of the year to travel. In many ways, the Thanksgiving crowd is far more predictable since the holiday falls on the same day each year. The opposite is true for the end of December as family and friends hustle to jet around the country (and the world). Having a timepiece you can rely on as you make and execute your travel plans is more than a practical consideration; it can also be a comforting companion when far from home. On this edition of new Year’s Resolutions Friday, we want to highlight watches that can be such companions – this one is for all of you who are traveling this season and for those who intend to travel more in the new year. Bon voyage! The post New Year’s Resolutions Fri...

Go exploring with The Ace x Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar Dec 7, 2023

Go exploring with The Ace x Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar

The Amsterdam-based Ace Jewelers are really making their name known throughout the watch world thanks to their collaborations, especially with the likes of Nomos and the Diversity Series with Elka. Nivada Grenchen have had quite an extraordinary comeback in recent years, simultaneously embracing their storied heritage and experimenting with fun collabs. The new Ace x … ContinuedThe post Go exploring with The Ace x Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Universal Genève Polerouter Gets the Reference Treatment in a Gorgeous New Book Covering the Enormous Breadth of the Collection Worn & Wound
Universal Genève Dec 6, 2023

The Universal Genève Polerouter Gets the Reference Treatment in a Gorgeous New Book Covering the Enormous Breadth of the Collection

Over the last several years, something has happened to the humble Universal Geneve Polerouter. This watch, once a go-to recommendation for collector’s looking to get their feet wet in the world of vintage, has risen in stature, value, and overall name recognition as the watch market has expanded. As with any niche hobby that, over time, approaches the mainstream, hidden gems become less hidden. The Polerouter, while not a household name like the Speedmaster or Submariner, is not nearly as under the radar as it used to be.  While those of us who have been around this stuff for years might mourn the availability of great examples of the Polerouter on the cheap, it’s hard not to be happy that people are discovering and appreciating the watch. As a gateway to the hobby, and vintage specifically, it’s a collection that could lead a curious collector down any number of paths, each one rewarding in a different way. That’s because there are so many ways to approach the Polerouter: as a creation from the mind of the biggest name in the history of watch design, as an elegant sports watch that helped set a template for some of the most popular watches of the current era, and as an uncommon mechanical triumph. And, of course, it’s still a relatively accessible piece of a key part of watch history, and a great representation of Universal Geneve, a brand that exists today as a time capsule.  Perhaps one of the clearest signals that the Polerouter has crossed a threshold of s...

Adding Some Spice to Life with Colorful Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 6, 2023

Adding Some Spice to Life with Colorful Watches

The realization hits like a freight train. At some point in the intrepid collector’s journey, he or she comes to a stunning revelation. The watch box is full but every piece is monochromatic and paired with plain nato straps. He’s living in a black and white world, and maybe he’s been doing it wrong the whole time. He checks his Internet history: yet another forum argument, another online cart full of the same watch he’s always bought. It was never meant to be this way. Let this cautionary tale resonate as the days grow short and gray. The road back to joy and laughter in watch enjoyment is simple; just add some color. The realization hits like a freight train. At some point in the intrepid collector’s journey, he or she comes to a stunning revelation. The watch box is full but every piece is monochromatic and paired with plain nato straps. He’s living in a black and white world, and maybe he’s been doing it wrong the whole time. He checks his Internet history: yet another forum argument, another online cart full of the same watch he’s always bought. It was never meant to be this way. Let this cautionary tale resonate as the days grow short and gray. The road back to joy and laughter in watch enjoyment is simple; just add some color. The post Adding Some Spice to Life with Colorful Watches appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Book Review: ‘The Polerouter’, a Universal Genève Odyssey SJX Watches
Universal Genève Dec 6, 2023

Book Review: ‘The Polerouter’, a Universal Genève Odyssey

The Polerouter. By Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi. Time Honoured Ltd. £225. A timepiece intertwined with the allure of pioneering trans-polar flights flown by Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS), the Universal Genève Polerouter is a symbol of 1950s glamour and adventure. Ardent Polerouter enthusiasts Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi embarked on a collaborative journey four years ago on comprehensive book dedicated to the iconic watch, aptly titled The Polerouter. The book delves into the fascinating world of the Polerouter, a timepiece fondly regarded by many in the world of vintage watches. This is demonstrated in the forewords written by individuals like John Goldberger, author and collector; Virginie Liatard-Roessli, watch specialist at Phillips; and Alessandro Fanciulli, a well-known social media figure and dealer better known as “Mr A”.  The authors themselves, however, are scholars but amateurs – Mr Willis is a mathematician while Mr Mazzucchi is a nautical interior designer. The narrative unfolds across various chapters, each dedicated to a specific model, highlighting key milestones in the Polerouter’s evolution. Across almost 400 pages, the authors meticulously document each model’s distinct characteristics, from the SAS Polarouter to the Polerouter Sub. The information unfolds chronologically, beginning with the SAS Polarouter and systematically exploring each Polerouter model. Notably, the book intentionally omits esoteric models such as the P...

Ressence Brings Some Color to the Type 1 Worn & Wound
Ressence Brings Some Color Dec 4, 2023

Ressence Brings Some Color to the Type 1

In the big wide world of watches, there is nothing quite like a Ressence. The Belgium-based brand has made its name through futuristic designs that utilize co-planar revolving discs and other dial elements to create a cohesive and interesting time-telling experience. In the brand’s lineup, the Type 1 Round is positioned as the foundation and the most distilled vision of what Ressence stands for. The new Type 1° M, however, reveals a playful side that has not been seen before. Out with the staid black and gray tones for which the brand has been so well known for; it’s time for some color. The Type 1 Round’s case is, well, round, and measures 42.7mm wide, 47mm lug to lug, and 11mm thick. It is made of Grade 5 Titanium and does away with a traditional crown (more on winding in a moment). The dial is in the classic Ressence regulator style and displays days, hours, minutes, and seconds. Without a number in sight, which is which? On this multi-colored version it’s a little easier to ascertain: the blue chapter ring along the edge of the dial marks the seconds while the green dial tracks the hours. Yellow is for running seconds, and the red segmented ring marks the days of the week with the two outlined sections representing the weekend. Under the hood, Ressence’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS) enables the modules for the hours, minutes, seconds, and days to continuously revolve around one another. The movement is based on a (heavily) modified ETA-2892 and runs...

Introducing – The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Seddiqi Special, With Meteorite Dial Monochrome
Gerald Charles Nov 29, 2023

Introducing – The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Seddiqi Special, With Meteorite Dial

Gerald Charles has pulled off something quite extraordinary in the watch world: all its collections revolve exclusively around one case design. And what a case design that is! Created by legendary designer Gérald Genta in 2006, the flamboyant Maestro case design is the backbone of Gerald Charles. Ranging from time-and-date models to skeletonised versions and […]