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Striking Improvement: Armin Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 SJX Watches
Armin Strom s Minute Repeater Resonance Oct 26, 2026

Striking Improvement: Armin Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59

Armin Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition doesn’t just chime the current time, it chimes the best time (12:59) to show off its Westminster Carillon of four hammers chiming on four gongs. The watch combines the clever chiming complication with a clever chronometric innovation: a pair of sprung balances connected by an elastic “resonance clutch spring”, one of the brand’s signature invention. And all of that somehow squeezed into a water-resistant, 42 mm case that is slimmer than most chronographs. Initial thoughts Armin Strom’s repeater probably deserves an award for the brand’s most improved product. Its predecessor was 47.7 mm in diameter and 16.1 mm tall, while this is a wearable 42 mm and only 11.7 mm thick. That makes it slimmer than a Rolex Daytona — though most of the height is borne by the mid-case, making the watch look thicker than it is. It’s also somehow more water resistant, up to 50 m from an already solid 30 m, yet it costs just 2% more at the current retail price. That is before mentioning the Westminster Carillon, demonstration-chiming mode, and the more attractive design. The “demonstration mode”, which allows the watch to chime 12:59 on demand regardless of the current time, is well executed and suits the job of the repeater in the 21st century, which goes beyond simply telling time in the dark. Furthermore, the sound is good — pleasant and audible — but wristwatch minute repeaters have improved dramatically in ...

Introducing - Warm Autumnal Colours for the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton Monochrome
Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton Although Oct 26, 2026

Introducing - Warm Autumnal Colours for the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton

Although Rado is synonymous today with high-tech ceramic watches, it got a head start in innovative materials with the launch of its DiaStar model in 1962. Made from brightly polished tungsten carbide sintered under intense heat, it was the world’s first scratch-proof watch. A child of its time, the futuristic flying saucer case featured a […]

The New Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph - Sleek Looks, Edgy Mechanics Fratello
Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph — Oct 26, 2026

The New Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph - Sleek Looks, Edgy Mechanics

There’s something special about combining a chronograph and tourbillon. One complication measures elapsed time, while the other uses a rotating cage to counteract the effects of gravity on the regulating organ. Bringing them together is no small feat, as both mechanisms demand considerable energy. Starting or stopping the chronograph also changes the load and torque […] Visit The New Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph — Sleek Looks, Edgy Mechanics to read the full article.

Van Cleef & Arpels Celebrates 20 Years Of Poetic Complications: The Mechanics Behind The Magic Fratello
Oct 24, 2026

Van Cleef & Arpels Celebrates 20 Years Of Poetic Complications: The Mechanics Behind The Magic

A magician never reveals his secrets. That would ruin the magic. Creating magical complications with a poetic soul is what Van Cleef & Arpels is all about. This year, the brand celebrates 20 years of the Poetry of Time philosophy, a way of thinking that led to a string of so-called Poetic Complications. The creations […] Visit Van Cleef & Arpels Celebrates 20 Years Of Poetic Complications: The Mechanics Behind The Magic to read the full article.

Introducing: Clemence Photic MKII Swiss Edition (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Oct 23, 2026

Introducing: Clemence Photic MKII Swiss Edition (Live Pics)

What We Know Clemence, the English microbrand, has launched a new limited-edition take on its incredibly good (and deservedly popular) Photic dive watch. The main difference between the new LE and the standard Photic MKII diver (which Jason Heaton spent time with earlier this year) is that it uses a Swiss Soprod M100 movement instead of the Miyota movements Clemence has used previously. While the new Clemence is largely identical to its non-limited-edition sibling, other changes include a fully luminous bezel with a numbered layout and a new color Clemence calls “Atoll Blue.” Clemence is deservedly known for its excellent use of color, and the addition of a new color to that palette is notable for a brand that has been deliberate in its rollout of new models. Like the Photic MKII, this new watch measures 38.5mm across (though the overhanging bezel measures closer to 39mm) and is about 46.5mm lug-to-lug. It’s also thin, at just 10.5mm thick (the switch to the Soprod movement hasn’t led to any dimensional changes). The watch comes on a three-link bracelet, features a micro-adjust in the clasp, and the Soprod M100 movement is regulated to tremendous accuracy (+/- 4 seconds a day). The Photic MKII Swiss Edition is priced at £949—or about $1,275—so it commands a slight premium of £599 (about £350) over the standard Photic. The Photic MKII Swiss Edition is limited to 25 pieces. What We Think Do I even have to say it? I absolutely adore this watch. The Clemence Pho...

Auctions: Monaco Legend Group's Fall Auction Is A Return To The Classics Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Moon Phase Oct 23, 2026

Auctions: Monaco Legend Group's Fall Auction Is A Return To The Classics

We're back in the saddle again, riding the bucking bronco that is the auction market. But as a salve to the wounds of the usual suspects of whatever the market is hyped on these days, today we're looking at the Monaco Legend Auction catalog, which takes place October 31 and November 1 in—you guessed it—Monaco. I won't be there this time (though I am hoping to return in the future), but here's my view from afar. I haven't seen any watches in person, so I won't go into depth on quality—do your own research—but hopefully this gives you a jumping-off point. The Top Lots Lot 50, Rolex ref. 6062, with an estimate of €1,000,000 to €2,000,000 As I like to do, I feel like I have to acknowledge some of the top lots. The auction feels more like a return to Monaco Legend's older catalog, where much of it is super rare, but it's not the loud, flashy stuff you'd find elsewhere. But to have your top watch be a very, very clean Rolex ref. 6062 in steel, carrying an estimate of €1,000,000 to €2,000,000, is a massive flex. The watch comes from the collection of Auro Montanari and, frankly, the estimate may be a bit conservative. Watches like this, especially in this condition, are rare, and the buyer pool is also thin. The watch could go for triple the low estimate without surprising me, as long as the right buyers don't already have one. Lot 208, Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Moon Phase, estimate € 200,000 –⁠ 400,000. Lot 181, Patek Philippe ref. 3974, estimate € ...

Bring a Loupe: A Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M, A Ulysse Nardin 'Big Aviator' Pilot's Watch, An Eterna "Majetek," And Much More Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Oct 23, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M, A Ulysse Nardin 'Big Aviator' Pilot's Watch, An Eterna "Majetek," And Much More

There's no way to keep up, Baller. It's true. There's too much to do and too little time, and somehow it's another Friday, and before we relax together and look at some interesting watches available over the next week, let's take some comfort in the fact that, here in the States, two small-market teams are squaring off in the World Series. Incredibly, the Brewers ranked 19th in total payroll for 2026, while the Rays ranked 25th. I bring this up only to note that anything is possible, and huge congrats to fans of both teams. Sure seems like it's gonna be an amazing series. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Boucheron remains available, the Breguet sells today, the IWC Aquatimer passed at auction, and the LIP Paul Newman sold for €820. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. Mr Clymer, Mr Wind, and Mr Dunne raised a good point that Jaeger-LeCoultre is still underrated, and while this one's unlikely to be a $1M watch, I can think of a few DuoPlans that look more fetching. For those still seeking a slightly under-the-radar integrated-bracelet sport watch from the 70s and 80s, may I present this Omega 'Alveoles.' Here's a vintage anonymous beauty with an 18k gold case and running seconds at the top rather than the bottom of the dial, and, from the same auction, if there's a better-looking vintage regulator than this Eterna on auction anywhere in the coming week, I haven't seen it. Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M Photo courtesy of The Saleroom. The upcoming Dr Crott auction goes down on ...

Louis Erard Introduces the Dia De Los Muertos Black Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces Oct 21, 2026

Louis Erard Introduces the Dia De Los Muertos Black

We’ve arrived at the time of year where we can finally highlight my favorite seasonal watch niche. Skull watches, most often created to underscore the philosophy of memento mori (an acknowledgement of our mortality) tend to pop up in October to coincide with Halloween and Day of the Dead celebrations. This is a watch design rabbit hole that has snuck up on me over the years, but if you think about it, it makes a certain amount of sense that a skull represented on a dial surface could be an interesting platform for a variety of craft techniques. We’ll have a (long) list of some of our favorite skull watches on the website a little later this month.  But today, we’ll focus on the latest addition to the skull watches canon, the Louis Erard Dia De Los Muertos Black. This is a fairly straightforward skull watch, with a bold and colorful skull clad in floral motifs dominating the dial. This limited edition (only 10 are being made) has a black coated case and black dial, which feels appropriate and also properly frames the colorful skull.  The floral motifs on the skull are recessed, and the brand’s own images suggest a skull design with subtle depth when explored closely. The brand’s logo is blended into the skull at around 12:00, and the name of the brand appears across the skull’s teeth at 6:00. A total of 6 color transfers have been placed on the skull applique, with the dominant tones being white, gray, orange and yellow. The hands are pear shaped and anthracit...

Introducing - Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition Monochrome
Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Oct 20, 2026

Introducing - Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition

Oris supports environmental causes through its watches, like the Aquis Date Yangtze Jiangtun or the New York Harbour limited editions, participating in projects dedicated to protecting marine ecosystems and bringing attention to issues beyond watchmaking. The new Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition is made with Francis Pérez, the award-winning underwater photographer and long-time Oris […]

Fratello On Air: What Will It Take To Turn The Vintage Speedmaster Market Around? Fratello
Oct 20, 2026

Fratello On Air: What Will It Take To Turn The Vintage Speedmaster Market Around?

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we have an open chat about what it might take to turn the vintage Speedmaster market around. Let’s face it, it has been quiet for a long time. We’d love nothing more than to see the enthusiasm return and hear your thoughts on what […] Visit Fratello On Air: What Will It Take To Turn The Vintage Speedmaster Market Around? to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust Fratello
Tudor Royal Vs Rolex Oysterquartz Oct 18, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a hot cup of coffee, some breakfast, and another installment in our ongoing Sunday Morning Showdown series. This week, the question is whether you’ll go modern or vintage. Daan picked the updated Tudor Royal that debuted at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. It goes up against Jorg’s […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust to read the full article.

Introducing The Trilobe Château Trente-Deux - Let’s Drink To That Fratello
Trilobe Oct 17, 2026

Introducing The Trilobe Château Trente-Deux - Let’s Drink To That

For many of us, at least native English speakers, our brains seem “wired” to read from left to right, top to bottom. Now, scientifically speaking, doing this is learned behavior, but our parents drill it into us from the first time we pick up a picture book. Indeed, we do crave linear progression. And as […] Visit Introducing The Trilobe Château Trente-Deux — Let’s Drink To That to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Elegant IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34 Le Petit Prince! WatchAdvice
IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Oct 16, 2026

Hands-On With The Elegant IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34 Le Petit Prince!

The poetic world of Le Petit Prince meets the understated elegance of IWC’s compact Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34! What We Love: Beautiful integration of the Le Petit Prince for the first time in a Portofino model. Poetic day-and-night display Slim, elegant, and exceptionally comfortable What We Don’t: 34mm sizing limits its broader appeal No view of the movement Limited choice of suitable alternative straps Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.8/10 Wearability: 8.7/10 Design: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.8/10 IWC Schaffhausen’s Portofino collection is one that can seem overlooked at times. With collections such as the Portugieser, Ingenieur and Pilot’s Watches taking centre stage more often, the Portofino can feel like a line that frequently flies under the radar. For me personally, however, it remains one of IWC’s best-kept secrets. View this post on Instagram A post shared by IWC Schaffhausen (@iwcwatches) Unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2026 is the first-ever Portofino to feature IWC’s Le Petit Prince theme! The Portofino collection also has a distinctive design within IWC’s broader range, allowing it to stand entirely on its own. How this design originated is a story in itself, as the Portofino emerged during a period when the world of mechanical watchmaking was going through considerable turmoil. By the early 1980s, quartz watches were dominating the market, forcing IWC to explore different ideas that would make its mechanical timepieces appe...

Bring a Loupe: A Breguet's Breguet, A LIP Chronograph, An IWC Aquatimer, And A Boucheron Carree Hodinkee
Breguet s Breguet Oct 16, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Breguet's Breguet, A LIP Chronograph, An IWC Aquatimer, And A Boucheron Carree

It's a big world out there, Baller, full of seductive objects to pursue beyond watches. In the course of finding stuff to fill out BAL each week, I come across delights galore, and it feels essential to pass along that, should you have an excess of time and money and a dearth of memorabilia, there's a full auction of items from Paul Reubens (aka Pee Wee Herman), titled, appropriately enough, Paul Reubens' Big Auction, and yes, there's a bike. Scorekeeping last weeks picks, the Orvis Solunagraph auctions next Thursday and the LIP Mach 2000 later today. The Patek 5107 sold for €13,500, and the Omega DeVille Emerald sold for $650. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. Your affordable vintage diver of the week is from that least-loved of brands, Invicta. Yes, Invicta is a punchline now, but their vintage stuff can offer surprises. Here's Alan Bean's personal BA 145.022-69, for all you space cadets, and here's a trio of early electronic Wittnauers that will be 'fun' for someone, depending on how capacious their definition of fun is, given that the watches are listed as not currently running. This gold chronograph from Juvenia felt, on first seeing it, like the most charming watch I'd find this week, but then there's this incredible Zenith purse watch, which takes the cake charm-wise. For all you Pogue heads (the watch/astronaut, not the band), neither of these are 'true' pogues, in that they're both 6139-6002s, but both look great, and Seiko 6139s are great fun. Finally, I covered...

Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10 SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10 Oct 16, 2026

Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10

The Ressence Type 10 DN pairs the brand’s proprietary base calibre with its oil-filled display module for the first time. The organically shaped case is a natural evolution of Ressence’s minimalist style, finished in dark blue DLC-coated titanium for this 100-piece debut. The new movement brings a practical benefit, extending the power reserve from 36 to 60 hours compared with its ETA-powered oil-filled siblings. Initial thoughts Ressence debuted its first proprietary base calibre earlier this year in the Type 11, and it was only a matter of time before the Belgian independent paired this platform with its signature oil-filled display module. We didn’t have to wait long, which suggests the industrialisation of the new movement is progressing well. Inspiration for the Type 10’s organic shape came from founder Benoît Mintiens’ curiosity about what a watch would look like if shaped by the laws of nature. The result is an organic form that smoothly integrates the lines of the crystal into the case, with scalloped lugs meeting a colour-matched rubber strap. The case surfaces meet along one of its few sharp edges, while the absence of a conventional crown preserves the symmetry. Like other Ressence watches, the Type 10 is set and wound via the case back ring. The case is made of polished Grade 5 titanium with a DLC coating in a shade Ressence calls “Dark Night” — a rich navy that continues across the dial, which has been simplified beyond the brand’s typical m...

Business News: Former AP CEO François-Henri Bennahmias Brought In As Consultant To Hublot Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Oct 15, 2026

Business News: Former AP CEO François-Henri Bennahmias Brought In As Consultant To Hublot

François-Henri Bennahmias, the high-profile executive who served as the CEO of Audemars Piguet for more than a decade and grew annual sales beyond $2 billion, is being tapped as a consultant to Hublot in a surprise move by the LVMH-owned watch brand. Bennahmias was recently brought on to advise and consult for the brand, according to people familiar with the matter. Julien Tornare, the long-time LVMH executive who has served as Hublot's CEO since 2024, remains in the role, according to people who asked not to be named because Bennahmias' appointment hasn't been publicly disclosed.  The Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons Bennahmias's move to consult for Hublot, founded in 1980 by Italian entrepreneur Carlo Crocco and known for its innovative, irreverent approach to watchmaking, including rubber straps on precious-metal timepieces, is an unexpected shift. The former professional golfer, who led Audemars Piguet until 2024, launched The Honourable Merchants Group in 2025 and promised to bring watch brands to the new luxury conglomerate that also included an electric bicycle company. While Bennahmias held discussions to acquire stakes in existing watch brands, none have been completed. THMG, as the luxury constellation is known, said in July that it would create a brand called 'N3W5' that will launch at Dubai Watch Week in 2027.  François-Henri Bennahmias at an event in Switzerland launching The Honourable Merchants Group.  LVMH, meanwhile, has been making c...

Urwerk Takes a Quantum Leap with the UR-300 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Oct 15, 2026

Urwerk Takes a Quantum Leap with the UR-300

Urwerk’s latest interpretation of the wandering hours complication ventures beyond classical physics with the UR-300 Time Quantum, which debuts a cleverly constructed jumping display inspired by quantum mechanics. Housed in a sleek new titanium case with a choice of finishes, the UR-300 is almost as cutting-edge on the inside as its futuristic design makes it out to be, with LIGA-formed levers and wheels that catapult the display forwards in the blink of an eye. Initial thoughts According to Urwerk, the design of the UR-300 was inspired by the property of quantum entanglement, which informed the functional design of the new jumping wandering hours module. This explains why when one of the two “atoms” responsible for the hours flips, so does the other. I got a preview of the prototype movement earlier this year and was immediately taken by the new display and the elegance of its mechanism, which takes a familiar look and adds a surprising, jumping twist. The final design of the space ship-like case suits the concept, making it immediately recognisable as an Urwerk. Ultimately, the unique selling proposition of this watch is aesthetic, but it’s an aesthetic that only works thanks to clever engineering. That said, the roughly US$200,000 asking price is steep by the standards of high-end wandering hours complications, whether from Urwerk or larger brands like Audemars Piguet that, admittedly, have vastly different economies of scale. But no brand does futurism quite li...

Hands-On With Two Cônillons: Trying Out The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art Fratello
Oct 15, 2026

Hands-On With Two Cônillons: Trying Out The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art

This is not the first time you’ve read about cônillons. Do you still remember what a cônillon is? Let me jog your memory. It is a tilted tourbillon regulator with a tilted balance that follows a conical path rather than a conventional flat plane. It’s not a new concept. The American watchmaker Andrew Holden Potter […] Visit Hands-On With Two Cônillons: Trying Out The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art to read the full article.

Owner’s Review: the Straum Jan Mayen Stormy Seas Worn & Wound
Straum Oct 14, 2026

Owner’s Review: the Straum Jan Mayen Stormy Seas

Spirit Halloween stores are popping up around the city, pumpkin beer has hit the shelves, and 80-plus-degree highs in Brooklyn are in the rearview mirror (please remain true). I’ve returned my most worn summer watch to the display box and this one included quite a few “firsts”. I received my Jan Mayen Stormy Seas, a collaboration between the Norwegian brand and The Real Time Show (a podcast I’ll admit I’m still ignorant of) in late May after a production issue with the rubber straps delayed the promised delivery date by about three months. I grew up on the west coast sailing with my parents (who until very recently lived fulltime on their 43ft Hans Christian Ketch named “Galatea”) so perhaps that’s why I’m drawn to a watch called “Stormy Seas”, but regardless I found the contents of the precision machined capsule absolutely stunning. This was the first watch I’ve ever pre-ordered. While it’s not my favorite business practice, I knew the risks involved and was quite happy when they included a second strap gratis for the inconvenience. It remained on my wrist almost exclusively for the next three months. As well as my first pre-order and first Straum, it is also the first watch I’ve owned on a rubber strap, my first titanium case, and first integrated bracelet (more on that later). Straum has been on my radar since a Limited Edition Jan Mayen they released with Fratello back in the Spring of 2023. I loved the textural details in that fiery red dia...

Photo Report: The 2026 Audrain Newport Concours d'Elegance With A. Lange & Söhne Hodinkee
Ming weeks Oct 14, 2026

Photo Report: The 2026 Audrain Newport Concours d'Elegance With A. Lange & Söhne

Every year in early October, the car world descends on Newport, Rhode Island, for a weekend of revelry at the Audrain Newport Concours d'Elegance. We've covered the event in years past: Malaika had a dispatch in 2023, James strolling the lawn in 2024, and last year, TanTan took a ride with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid. This year, it was my turn, and I was thrilled—it was my first time at Audrain and my first time in Newport, and over four days, set against the town's dramatic, historic backdrop, I was immersed in the smell of gasoline and the sound of pre-war cars shifting from first to second, trying not to stall. The weekend kicked off on Thursday at the Faxon Lodge, and set the tone for the rest of the week.  Now in its fourth year as a sponsor of the Concours, A. Lange & Söhne, the partnership feels like a natural one. While the cars got top billing, I kept glancing at wrists. Plenty of Langes were on display, naturally, including Jay Leno's Datograph Perpetual Calendar and Tony de Haas's limited-edition Triple Split. There was even a surprise appearance from former President Joe Biden, whose Goodwood Green 1967 Chevrolet Corvette Sting Ray Corvette was on display (sadly, I couldn't get a wrist shot). Scroll through for photos from the weekend, and stay tuned in the coming weeks for an itinerary to help you plan your own trip to Audrain next year, something I highly recommend. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moonphase. Maserati Khamsin. A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilh...

Introducing: Ming x Massena Lab 57.09 'Secret Honey' Hodinkee
Massena Lab 57.09 Secret Honey What Oct 14, 2026

Introducing: Ming x Massena Lab 57.09 'Secret Honey'

What We Know It's been five years since Ming and Massena Lab released their first collaboration. In that time, both Ming — the Malaysian-born microbrand founded by Ming Thein — and Massena Lab — the concept studio and curatorial brand created by collector William Massena — have grown and evolved somewhat dramatically, with Ming having moved through several generations of iteration, and Massena having worked with a somewhat staggering number of brands. Now, with each brand having grown up quite a bit, they've come back together to announce the Ming x Massena Lab 57.09 Secret Honey. The new watch, built on Ming's latest design platform, is a time-only watch that evokes similar ideas to the two brands' first collaborative effort half a decade ago, but updates them, bringing to the new watch many of the tricks Ming has developed over the last few years. Put another way, this is still a honeycomb-dialed Ming, just with a little more cheek. Here, Ming has blended the honeycomb concept with their multi-layered "secret" dial to create something dynamic and fun, with a lot of the charm of midcentury favorites in an undeniably contemporary package. Like so many Mings, the dial here is multi-layered, with a dark brown lacquered base dial sitting below a trio of rotating sapphire discs, each of which rotates at a different rate. These three discs are perforated with a different pattern and finished in a different color, with the bottom two layers finished respectively in orang...

Inside The Swatch Sistem51 And Bioceramic Production Sites Fratello
Swatch Oct 13, 2026

Inside The Swatch Sistem51 And Bioceramic Production Sites

In September, I ended up spending more time in airport lounges than in my living room at home. Sometimes, that’s not so bad, especially when it means new opportunities! One highlight was visiting Switzerland to tour two Swatch Group production sites. At one, I saw how movements are made, and at the other, I watched […] Visit Inside The Swatch Sistem51 And Bioceramic Production Sites to read the full article.

Talking Watches: With Eric Wind & Charlie Dunne, Where Every Watch Tells A Personal Story Hodinkee
Rolex Oct 13, 2026

Talking Watches: With Eric Wind & Charlie Dunne, Where Every Watch Tells A Personal Story

For Eric Wind and Charlie Dunne, watches connect them to the past and help them build lifelong relationships with others. For the first time in Talking Watches, Ben sits down with two guests to discuss how a passion can be learned, sharpened, and passed along. The watches they bring not only reveal the charming details that define an exceptional vintage watch, but also the friendships and experiences that give collecting its meaning. There's *a lot* of inside jokes in this episode. Most of them on the casebacks. Longtime Hodinkee readers need little introduction to Eric. Before Wind Vintage, before Christie's, and before his many appearances in Reference Points, he was one of the site's earliest and most prolific contributors. Through Bring A Loupe, auction coverage, and deeply researched stories, Eric helped introduce a wider audience to the nuances of vintage collecting.  His enthusiasm could make an obscure chronograph as compelling as a six-figure Rolex, and his scholarship gave collectors the tools to distinguish a merely old watch from an exceptional one. Since founding Wind Vintage in 2017, he has continued to approach the category with the same curiosity, exacting eye, and belief that great watches can be found at nearly every price. The Wind Vintage duo. Charlie entered the watch business through a different route. Before entering the trade, Charlie was a collector of watch books and a researcher; in 2021, while working in digital marketing, he used several weeks...

Vacheron Constantin And Phillips Announce 34 Finalists For The Inaugural Concours D'Élégance Horlogère Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Oct 13, 2026

Vacheron Constantin And Phillips Announce 34 Finalists For The Inaugural Concours D'Élégance Horlogère

Earlier this year, we covered the announcement of a novel idea from the minds at Vacheron Constantin and the Phillips auction house: an open call looking for the best vintage Vacheron Constantin watches in the world for display, appreciation, and eventually the potential to be crowned the best in its category. It was a Concours D'Élégance like any held for cars, except this time for Vacheron timepieces. The underlying raison d'être was not just to show the best of vintage Vacheron but also to show support and appreciation to the collectors who have carried the passion for the brand (and maybe to draw some watches out of hiding). A platinum ref. 6448 from 1962 with JMV RA 13-ligne ultra-thin hand-wound movement (left) and a ref. 30030 from 2006. The jury (all fourteen members) reviewed 550 entries from vintage collectors worldwide. Now we know the 34 finalists in the seven categories (chronographs, Métiers d'Art, Chronomètre Royal, astronomical complications, multiple complications, design, and chiming mechanisms),  and there are some truly phenomenal pieces, including some that I did not know existed. And for those in Geneva during the lead-up to GPHG and the fall auction season, you can see the watches on display from November 4th to 8th before the winners in each category—plus a potential "Best in Show"—are announced at a ceremony on November 10th. The legendary retrograde full date and 'Don Pancho' minute repeater from 1940, with a replacement dial faithful to...

The Art of Cloisonné at Patek Philippe SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 12, 2026

The Art of Cloisonné at Patek Philippe

For some eight decades, Patek Philippe has been an important patron of cloisonné enamel, commissioning work that helped sustain the craft when demand for it had all but disappeared. From the enamel maps of Louis Cottier’s world time watches to the signed dials of Anita Porchet, its commissions trace a history of both the technique and the changing recognition of the artists behind it. Today, demand for artisanal dials, particularly those in cloisonné enamel, is at an all-time high. In May 2026, a Patek Philippe wristwatch sold for about US$10.2 million at an auction in Geneva, as collectors competed for a dial featuring a map of South America made with gold wire and enamel. The outcome ended up making headlines. The watch was a ref. 2523 from 1953, and the artist responsible for the dial — supplied by Stern Frères — remains anonymous. The Patek Philippe ref. 2523, with South America map. The story of cloisonné enamel at Patek Philippe is also one of artistic patronage. By choosing subjects, commissioning enamellers and eventually allowing them to sign their dials, the Genevan watchmaker has acted as a curator, shaping a body of work that reflects both its own tastes and the talents of individual artists. Drawing in fire Cloisonné is only one of several enamel techniques. Cloisonné begins with gold wire. The enameller bends it by hand, sometimes working with wire just 0.05 mm thick, to draw the design on the dial. The resulting compartments, or cloisons — Fren...