Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

F Fratello

Fratello

May 23, 2024

Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron

Dive watches are the go-to for many watch collectors. They outstrip the standard “tool watch” moniker with, usually, enhanced specs, such as better water resistance. As a result, dive watches are usually aimed at those professionals for whom they are designed. You know, divers. These days, this results in an instantly recognizable aesthetic that is […] Visit Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron to read the full article.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

MB&F; Apr 27, 2024

New Release: MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 - The Supercar for the Wrist turns Blue

Supercars are not designed and developed for your daily commute or to do the shopping run, although they can do those automotive tasks, they are made to get your pulse racing, adrenal pumping, and putting a smile on your face. And that's just what MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 does as well.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Patek Philippe 5330G World Time Date Apr 26, 2024

Hands-on - The Patek Philippe 5330G World Time Date, A New Generation of the Brand’s Iconic Traveller’s Watch

Patek Philippe’s World Time models have remained a timeless presence for over three-quarters of a century. Intriguingly, the concept and presentation have undergone little change since introducing the “cleverly designed watch for men with international interests,” as touted in an early advertisement for World Time 1415. Since the inception of the World Time complication, Patek […]

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

IWC Portugieser Collection Apr 9, 2024

A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection

For IWC, 2024 is the year of the Portugieser. The collection receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42 (previously known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronograph, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. In addition, IWC has introduced an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, however, is without question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cover in a separate story. With the facelift, IWC has refined its core collection with subtle nips and tucks, including slimmer cases, while retaining the familiar design. The revamp includes new liveries including metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne. The champagne finish, known as “Dune” Initial thoughts I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Portugieser collection, which is perhaps the only collection of dress watches of any brand where the (over)sizing is a feature rather than a drawback. The new collection is no exception; each piece is attractive and several models have received thoughtful technical upgrades, including an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials are not merely new colours, but sport detailed finishing and thoughtful details. Of course, there’s little in the way of true novelty in the collection outside of the Eternal Calendar that is a rare complication executed smartly but for an hard-to-believe six-figure price. Even the Tourbillo...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Mar 21, 2024

Watch Lume 101: The Complete History and Primer on Reading Time in the

Luminous material on watch dials - referred to in shorthand as “lume” by both industry insiders and avid enthusiasts - is an element taken for granted nowadays. It can be said without hyperbole that a watch dial without lume is a stylistic outlier in this modern era, but this wasn’t always the case. Discerning the time in the dark presented a major problem for watchmakers in the early days before the widespread use of electricity in homes, and at first the only solution that could be offered was an audible rather than visual one: watches that chimed the time on demand, like minute repeaters and sonneries. Only a handful of wealthy individuals could afford these highly complicated timepieces, however, so a more widely accessible technology was needed as wristwatches spread to the general populace. Around the dawn of the 20th Century, watchmakers turned their attention to making watch dials that could be read in the dark, paving the way for the luminous materials that are still used commonly today. The road to perfecting the technology, however, would not be easy, and at times would even be dangerous. Radium The first material applied to watch dials for nighttime luminescence was a paint made from radium with zinc sulfide, which, thanks to radium’s half-life of 1,600 years, offered a long-lasting glow during that period before dimming - the catch being that radium, as its name implies, is radioactive. One of its earliest uses can be traced to a pioneer of devel...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Mar 7, 2024

First Look - The Time-and-Date Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm

While there have been time-and-date and triple calendar versions since the mid-1990s, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore or ROO, has always been primarily known as a chronograph watch. It was actually designed as such when it launched in 1993. In modern days, non-chronograph ROO watches were mostly known as the Diver version, which was […]

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet ref 5516 which was Feb 27, 2024

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today

As we approach the leap day of February 29, the unofficial day of commemoration for perpetual calendar owners, it’s worth considering the technical advances in perpetual calendar movements of the past 20 years. The perpetual calendar is, and has always been, a staple of haute horlogerie. But for most of its history, the technology remained largely stagnant. It wasn’t until the beginning of the modern era, in the 1980s when Swiss watchmaking was regrouping after the Quartz Crisis, that a new generation of watchmakers revisited this complication in earnest. In particular, they sought to address fundamental weaknesses in the way traditional perpetual calendar designs switch from one date to the next. The quintessential perpetual calendar layout, here in the first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with a leap year indicator, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5516, which was produced in the late 1950s One of the more recent – and most notable – efforts at reimagining the complication came from Stephen McDonnell, who developed the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual. According to Mr McDonnell, the traditional approach to the perpetual calendar was a flawed premise. “For decades in the Swiss watch industry, and even until the present day, it has been accepted and expected that [perpetual calendar] watches would often be damaged by owners while trying to correct them,” explains Mr McDonnell, “This was seen simply as an unavoidable factor of [perpetual calendar] owner...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Tudor Predictions 2024 – Feb 13, 2024

Tudor Predictions 2024 - The Potential Return of the Tudor Oysterdate Big Block Chronograph

A few days ago, the MONOCHROME team delivered our yearly forecast of potential launches for the 2024 Rolex Collection. As always, we try our best to guess what the Crown will be presenting at the watch industry’s largest fair, Watches and Wonders. While trying to imagine and design these potential Rolex models, we also started […]

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Brew Metric Black & Gold Jan 11, 2024

Lookbook: Keeping It Classic with the Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon

The funny thing about classic designs and the good old days is that you often recognize them only once they are over-when you are no longer experiencing them in the present. But how remarkable would it be to own and wear something knowing that it was made precisely for its time but with potential as a future classic? The Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon chronograph seeks to accomplish just that: to be a watch designed for this very moment but distinctive enough to be recognized for generations to come. As the latest evolution of the Metric chronograph, the Black & Gold is at once evocative and alluring. The Metric is perhaps Brew’s most famous design with its off-centered sub-dials and curvaceous case and bracelet. The elapsed seconds dial at ten o’clock curiously marks the optimal window of time to extract the perfect espresso shot, which is just the kind of anachronism and modern charm that has come to define Brew as a whole. The stealthy 36mm case and bracelet, subtle touches of carbon along the edge of the dial, and gold accents all combine to make a beautiful watch that is just different enough from the mainstream today. In other words, it just might be a future classic. The post Lookbook: Keeping It Classic with the Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Citizen Drops Jan 9, 2024

Citizen Drops a Pair of Godzilla Themed Ecozillas for the 70th Anniversary of the King of the Monsters

Godzilla, as he does from time to time, is having a moment. Godzilla Minus One was an unexpected hit in theaters at the end of last year, and as the first Godzilla film from Toho Co. studios to break through in America in years, it has some fans discovering a different side of the King of the Monsters. The Toho films, going back decades to the original Godzilla movies of the 1950s, have generally been a little more character driven and subtle than the bombastic, special effects laden American films. And a new Godzilla themed watch from Citizen is similarly subtle. It doesn’t beat you over the head (or…breathe fire at you) with Godzilla references, but it’s still clearly inspired by the iconic movie monster.  It makes perfect sense for the Citizen Eco-Drive Professional Diver 300 to be the platform for a new Godzilla watch – the dive watch has long been known as the “Ecozilla” to collectors, and Citizen is happy to play up the connection. The watch arrives in a year that’s important to both Godzilla and Citizen, as each has a milestone birthday to celebrate: Godzilla turns 70, and Citizen marks the 100th anniversary of their first watch this year.  The dial and bezel assembly of the new Godzilla piece feature a camo pattern that’s meant to recall the scales of Godzilla’s skin, and you’ll also find very small renditions of Godzilla within the pattern itself. There are two dial variants being offered, one in a classic black and another in a more in-your-...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Dec 21, 2023

Tool/Kit: Bush Flying in Alaska with Steve Davidson and the Vaer S3 Calendar Field

Every once in a while, you come across someone who can only be described as “The Real Deal” and we’re excited to tell you that Steve Davidson is just that. Steve is an Alaskan bush pilot and backcountry guide who spends his days flying around Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. He’s an avid outdoor enthusiast who grew up surfing and skiing and now takes adventurers, two at a time, deep into the Alaskan wilderness for wildlife spotting and backcountry skiing. Steve knows a thing or two about having the right kind of gear and he relies daily on his 36mm VAER S3 Calendar Field watch. For this final edition of Tool/Kit in 2023, Steve takes us through what it’s like to rely on a watch as a mission critical piece of gear for his life of flying in the bush. The post Tool/Kit: Bush Flying in Alaska with Steve Davidson and the Vaer S3 Calendar Field appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Bulgari x Gran Turismo Partnership Dec 6, 2023

Interview - Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani on the Bulgari x Gran Turismo Partnership, And Designing Both a Watch and a Hypercar

As the Product Creation Executive Director at Bulgari Horlogerie, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani is renowned for his keen focus on design. While our discussions with him at MONOCHROME typically revolve around watches, this exceptionally versatile designer harbours various talents. The announcement of Bulgari’s collaboration with cult video game Gran Turismo provided the opportunity to unveil not […]

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Château Latour Edition Dec 5, 2023

First Look - The Grand Cru Girard-Perregaux 1966 Château Latour Edition

Collaboration watches are a dime a dozen these days as watch brands turn to high-profile players and marques on the sports and cultural scene to add some pizzazz to their collections. Even some of the oldest Swiss watch brands are not immune to the appeal of collaborations, especially if the partner is as reputable as […]

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Parmigiani Fleurier Nov 29, 2023

Business News: Sincere Opens SHH Concept Store in Kuala Lumpur

Singapore watch retailer Sincere Fine Watches has opened its newest Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) concept store in Pavilion Mall located in Kuala Lumpur prime shopping district. As the biggest of the retailer’s many stores, the new establishment will serve as Sincere’s flagship, not only in Malaysia but throughout Southeast Asia.  Covering 5,000 square feet, this boutique is dedicated to independent watchmaking, as all SHH stores are. Amongst the 17 brands on offer are Greubel Forsey and H. Moser & Cie. Alongside the watches is a private lounge with a bar, and an upscale dining area. The street-front facade with a custom LED screen An further expansion of the SHH concept Established almost two decades ago as a concept store focused on independent watchmaking, SHH is a vital part of Sincere, which was founded in 1954, making it Singapore’s oldest watch retailer. In 2020, fellow retailer Cortina Holdings acquired Sincere and revived the SHH concept, rolling it out in other markets including Taiwan and Thailand. The store is set to offer timepieces from 17 mostly independent brands, including Parmigiani Fleurier and Ferdinand Berthoud. The offer, however, is diverse, ranging from the classical to the extravagantly modern with Jacob & Co. And limited editions crafted specifically for SHH Kuala Lumpur will be released in due time, as was the case with its boutique at Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands. The boutique’s interiors are embellished in gold and copper tones to e...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Nov 28, 2023

Historical Landmarks in Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places”

In the Les Cabinotiers collection for 2023, titled “Récits de Voyages”, Vacheron Constantin draws inspiration from its historical international expansion for Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places” – a quartet of unique timepieces, each featuring a micro-sculpted gold dials inspired by significant architectural landmarks in cities across Asia as well as Vacheron Constantin’s home of Geneva. Initial thoughts As a collection, Les Cabinotiers embodies the quintessence of haute horlogerie, placing a distinct focus on crafting highly decorated timepieces for those who exclusively pursue the highest standards in watchmaking and artisanal craftsmanship. Though these unique creations are not entirely novel – Blancpain debuted a series of similar watches several years ago – it is truly delightful to witness the brand consistently surpass conventional expectations and create wearable works of art for the wrist. Among the four timepieces, a standout is the model featuring the entrance gate to Angkor Thom in Cambodia. The brand’s engravers have meticulously replicated every detail, capturing the foliage and serene visages of the past rulers of the Khmer Empire atop the temple. This intricate work is accomplished through hand engraving in various shades of gold.  The choices of landmarks – namely two in China, one in Cambodia – no doubt reflect the brand’s client base. While it could be seen as a little incongruous to feature Geneva among these Asian wonders, it st...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Nov 19, 2023

Three Pilot’s Watches Worthy of Any Collection

Of all the archetypal sport watches that have so gripped our ever-growing community, the pilot’s watch might be the most enigmatic. It’s not as singularly focused or popular in the mainstream as the dive watch, and it doesn’t revel in the romance of travel or flaunt a colorful bezel like a GMT does. Its function is ostensibly straightforward enough – tell the time legibly in the air – yet the how and with what is so undefined that no singular complication or model is the obvious poster child from which all other designs are merely descendents. With a pilot’s watch, you can truly understand how brands flex their creativity and interpret what they see as an aviator’s invaluable tool. The three watches in the spotlight today may all fall under the same broad category, but each takes such a different approach that it wouldn’t be farfetched to have all three in a collection. It might even be a good idea. Of all the archetypal sport watches that have so gripped our ever-growing community, the pilot’s watch might be the most enigmatic. It’s not as singularly focused or popular in the mainstream as the dive watch, and it doesn’t revel in the romance of travel or flaunt a colorful bezel like a GMT does. Its function is ostensibly straightforward enough – tell the time legibly in the air – yet the how and with what is so undefined that no singular complication or model is the obvious poster child from which all other designs are merely descendents. With a p...

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T Two Broke Watch Snobs

Two Broke Watch Snobs

Oris I Actually Buy After Nov 17, 2023

Why The ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser May Be The First Oris I Actually Buy

After years of tiptoeing around it and covering releases from Oris, I have to say that the recently announced Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser may be the watch that conquers me. Back when Oris announced the original Pro Pilot X, I found the design compelling but at the same time, a little too industrial-looking for me. I say that even as someone who is affectionately drawn to aviation themes, which Oris does very well. But now, Oris just had to add frickin’ lasers to the equation, pulling me closer to the ProPilot X.

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

F.P. Journe Nov 7, 2023

Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023

Regarded as a bellwether of the market, the Geneva auction season just concluded with the main players – Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum – having staged their sales over four days. Several records were set over the season, including CHF2.1 million for an immaculate Rolex ref. 6062 triple calendar in steel at Phillips, and CHF2.2 million for the George Daniels Millennium also signed by Roger W. Smith, both including fees. Trending one way Despite the record holders, the tone of the season was set by moderating or even weak prices. This was already evident with the most faddish of the “hype” watches last season six months ago. The May auctions saw prices for such watches gap down substantially, reflecting a new reality. Now the same appears to be happening for independent watchmaking – a good thing in my view as it will hopefully shake out the opportunists and no-hopers. The Roger W. Smith Series 2 hammered for CHF400,000 at Phillips (or CHF508,000 with fees), which is below the current retail price for the model and a third below the price of the lower-priced Series 1 that sold in the same venue in May 2023. The Phillips saleroom at La Reserve. Image – Phillips This phenomenon was not unique to Roger W. Smith, with prices gapping down for significant independents like F.P. Journe and Voutilainen. However, these brands remain buoyed by their relative reasonable retail prices, which still remain below recent auction valuations. Even if some exa...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Nov 7, 2023

Fall is Here: Saying Bye to Bracelets and Hello to Straps

It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covered with several leather-paired watches that fit the fall theme and are ready to slip under that cozy sweater you’ve been looking forward to wearing all year. It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covere...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Zenith Oct 13, 2023

Zenith Watches: A Brief History and Overview of the Modern Collection

Zenith SA, a Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots all the way back to 1865, is best known these days for its historic and hugely influential El Primero chronograph caliber, but the company can lay claim to many other horological milestones and accolades as well, some of which might be somewhat less than common knowledge. Did you know, for example, that Zenith has won more chronometry awards than any other watch brand? Or that it was once owned by an electronics company of the same name? Or that it is the only brand that’s allowed to put “Pilot” on a pilot’s watch dial? In this in-depth feature, I explore these and other aspects of Zenith’s fascinating history and also offer a primer on the manufacture’s modern watch collections. Georges-Favre-Jacot and Historic Integration Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot (above) was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer Le Corbusier, embraced a similarly modern approach to making watches, taking his cues from the American firms Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal business. His company, originally called Georges Favre-Jacot & Co., was the first Swiss watch producer to bring the various disciplines of horology under one roof - as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which h...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Ball Watch Co but any fan Sep 18, 2023

Aeronom Aero One BLK

Industrial watch design comes up a lot when discussing brands such as Hublot and Ball Watch Co, but any fan of Rammstein can assure you that nobody does industrial like the Germans. Aeronom was founded to be brash and bold, inspired by the urban sprawls of city architecture, streetwear and hip-hop. Their first release focused … ContinuedThe post Aeronom Aero One BLK appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

MB&F; Aug 28, 2023

MB&F; Stuns Again with the Incredible HM9 Sapphire Vision

Back in January 2021, MB&F; released what remains one of my all time favorite watches in the “This is Totally Insane” genre of watchmaking. Regular readers will understand that this is actually one of my favorite genres – one that I wish more in our little world would aspire to, because, really, how many black dialed dive watches does one really need? The HM9 SV, short for Sapphire Vision, is, as described, a vision in sapphire. The design of this watch takes the already bonkers HM9 and essentially cases it in an elaborate array of sapphire crystals, with a metal frame holding it all together. The result is an incredible view of the HM9’s movement, which has two independent balance wheels joined by a central differential that averages out their rates for, in theory, more stable timekeeping. And it’s all arranged in a shape inspired by automotive design dating to the 1940s and 1950s, because this is MB&F;, and that’s what they do.  Last week, MB&F; announced new versions of the HM9 SV, which is noteworthy because component for component, this has to be one of the toughest watches to make in the entire industry. The reason, of course, is because of the extensive use of sapphire, which has to be custom made specifically for these watches to very precise tolerances. And every piece of sapphire used in the HM9 SV is curved. MB&F; points out that sapphire cased watches made by some of their competitors are using mostly flat pieces of crystal, held together by screws. Th...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Aug 28, 2023

[VIDEO] Watches & the Stories they Keep: Matter of Time x Astor+Banks

Watches aren’t exactly a practical necessity these days, and while that element certainly still appeals to some of us, there’s generally something deeper at work that’s provided them with the staying power they’ve enjoyed for the past few decades. We like the way they look and feel, as well as appreciate the mechanical artistry at work under the hood. Further still, we attach stories and experiences to these objects that imbue them with personal meaning and significance to us, many of which we do our best to explore and share in these very pages. Recording and preserving these experiences is the motivation behind a new outfit called Matter of Time, who have teamed up with Astor+Banks to create a run of watches meant to do just that.  Matter of Time is a “purpose-driven club” that works a little differently than you might expect. Members are allowed to purchase watches created for the club given they agree to two stipulations: “The member will share and document special experiences on [the Matter of Time website] that they had with the watch through their life together and 2. Within two years, that watch will be given away.  Not sold, but given away to recognize somebody’s good deed, effort or accomplishment.” Additionally, 50% of the proceeds of every collection go to a charitable cause. The first effort from Matter of Time is a collaboration with Astor+Banks on the Founder’s Collection. The watch, which is based on the Fortitude, takes inspiration fr...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Parmigiani Fleurier has again partnered Jul 25, 2023

Parmigiani Releases the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Pacific Blue”

Parmigiani Fleurier has again partnered with Singapore-based Sincere Fine Watches, resulting in the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel Pacific Blue SHH Edition. Conceived for the retailer’s independents-focused store, Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), the watch features a unique, light blue hue for the barleycorn guilloché dial, while retaining the characteristic integrated-bracelet design and an ultra-thin automatic movement. Initial thoughts The Tonda PF has been a crowd favourite due to the fact that it’s an original take on the popular integrated bracelet design, while also having excellent proportions. At the same time, the barleycorn guilloché dial arguably boasts amongst the finest engine turning on a sports watch. So a new shade for the dial is a welcome thing, since it adds an good looking option to an already appealing watch. However, I would have hoped for something more distinctive to set apart the SHH Edition beyond the dial colour. Another guilloche pattern for the dial, for instance, would have made it truly stand out. While the standard model has proven extremely popular – Parmigiani has since unveiled many complicated iterations of the model – it is nice to see that this will only be produced in a limited quantity, adding a level of exclusivity to the new dial, which will surely be appreciated by clients of SHH. Priced at around US$27,000 before taxes, this carries a 10% premium over to the regular-production version. Considering that this is a limited ed...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Jul 22, 2023

Could this obscure Submarine have been the first waterproof wristwatch?

Despite being a multi-billion dollar industry with hundreds of years of development, there don’t seem to be that many people dedicating their time to chronicling watch history. You have the rare enthusiast and some museum curators, but overall the amount of brands clamouring their achievements without much accuracy significantly muddies the water. As a technology … ContinuedThe post Could this obscure Submarine have been the first waterproof wristwatch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Linde Werdelin Jul 19, 2023

Linde Werdelin Debuts a New Oktopus with a Bold Moon Phase Complication and Stark Contrasts

Last time we brought you news of a Linde Werdelin Oktopus, it was to highlight a limited edition project with Black Badger that took what can only be described as a maximalist approach to luminescent material. As a bonkers expression of independence and personal style, I’ve always been a fan of this type of watch, and Linde Werdelin in particular does a nice job of doing exactly their own thing (and maybe picking some well thought out collaborators along the way). The latest Oktopus, a nearly monochromatic expression of the Oktopus Moon with a case made from a space age carbon material, is an under the radar statement piece for a very specific type of watch nerd that finds big, bold sports watches from the usual suspects just a little too middle of the road.  The Oktopus Moon 3DTP White Black Ink starts with the case, specifically the material, which is a three dimensional, thin ply carbon (3D, TP, naturally). Linde Werdelin says this material differs from other carbon composite materials or forged carbon in that it uses a technique of layering ultra thin layers of carbon atop one another to achieve the desired strength while remaining very light weight. This technique apparently also allows for maximum design flexibility, and lets Linde Werdelin do its thing with the case shape of the Oktopus, which is a complex 8-sided structure with broad facets at the top of the case, adjacent to the bezel. We’ve seen a lot of highly angular, sculptural, integrated bracelet sports...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Yema Jul 11, 2023

Yema Urban Traveller Joins Chorus of Integrated Bracelet Sport Watch Releases

Yema is fleshing out their young Traveller collection, which made its debut just last year, with a new family of integrated bracelet sport watches called the Urban Traveller. The new family is on-trend with a design that features the now familiar hallmarks of the genre, such as a flat link bracelet that integrates with the case, a flat octagonal mid case with single piece bezel, and a textured dial. Check, check, and check. The Urban Traveller does take a unique approach in a few ways, however, and more options of a good thing is, well, a good thing.  Yema is a French brand that was founded in 1948, with an increasing selection of in-house labeled movements, which we’ve discussed before launched, somewhat curiously, via Kickstarter. The Traveller collection of watches have been no exception, with the template for the Urban Traveller, called the Wristmaster Traveller, hitting funded status in late 2022. That watch, which recalled Yema’s heritage with the use of the Wristmaster label, featured a colorful selection of in-house ultra-thin micro-rotor movements, a playful choice that set that watch apart from other integrated sport watches. The Urban Traveller takes a more direct approach to the design, using Yema’s YEMA2000 movement, which is around 80% in-house, instead of the colorful micro-rotor movements seen in the Wristmaster Traveller. This change means a slightly thicker case and a closed caseback, as well as a dramatic reduction in pricing. The ultra-thin Wrist...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Zodiac Adds Jul 10, 2023

Zodiac Adds a White Ceramic Super Sea Wolf to the Collection in Three Bold Colorways

At the end of last year, Zodiac introduced a new ceramic version of their popular Super Sea Wolf dive watch. The stealthy black diver put a new, contemporary spin on a platform that’s existed for almost as long as dive watches themselves, and felt like a natural evolution of the Sea Wolf line. After all, plenty of brands are using ceramic these days – it’s a worthy material by any measure and makes a lot of sense for sports watches in particular, given its light weight and resistance to scratches and wear. Now, Zodiac has introduced a follow up, a ceramic Super Sea Wolf in a crisp white with brightly colored dials, just in time for the true dog days of summer.  These watches play into a tried and true formula that has served Zodiac remarkably well over the last years, which is to lean into bold colors layered over their classic dive watch design. The new white ceramic watches will be available in three variants: dark blue, lime green, and a silver and orange watch that feels like a nod to their popular “Sherbet” GMT from a few years ago. All of the dials have a subtle sunburst finish and the traditional rectangular hands and hour markers that are common to the Super Sea Wolf line. The case construction is the same as last year’s black ceramic model, which means these watches have what is essentially a ceramic shell that is fit over a steel core. The white color of the case and bezel makes for a great complement to the bold dial colors and accents, and immediat...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Bravur Jul 4, 2023

Bravur Releases the La Grande Boucle III Chronograph, their Latest in an Ongoing Series of Cycling Inspired Watches

Every year, the Tour de France captivates the imagination and competitive spirit of those who are interested in cycling. While many Americans probably associate the sport with Lance Armstrong, there is an entire population of cycling enthusiasts who watch with bated breath as some of the top athletes in the sport traverse 2,115 miles over 23 days across France. It’s a spectacle of dedication, athleticism, and, yes, a bit of national pride. Swedish watch brand Bravur has tapped into the enthusiasm of the sport with the release of their series of watches dedicated to the Grand Tours, the top three most prestigious cycling events of the year. With the 2023 Tour de France upon us, Bravur has just released their third edition of Le Grand Boucle. The latest in the series to honor the Gallic event, Bravur has taken design elements of previous versions, while making the Le Grand Boucle III entirely new.  Starting with the visuals, the latest from Bravur is a vibrant pairing of yellow (long associated with the Tour winner) and a ceramic black coating on the case, giving it a sporty look that still remains sophisticated. The small details of this watch show that Bravur has done their homework, including the frosted white dial features and dot markers, reminiscent of the legendary polka dot patterns found on the King of the Mountains jersey, awarded to the race’s top climber. Further design themes that nod to the Tour’s history include an inverted “13” on the chapter ring,...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Hamilton Worn Jun 30, 2023

Zach Goes to the Movies: The Ancient Mechanical Device at the Center of Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny, and the Vintage Inspired Hamilton Worn on Indy’s Last Great Adventure

There are endless stories in the watch community of the random things that spark an interest in this hobby. We’ve all heard many variations on the watch as a hand-me-down artifact from a relative being the curiosity driving agent behind an interest in horology. Just the other day, an old friend sent me an Instagram post from an account that specializes in cataloging toys from the 1980s – it was a Transformers watch, and when I saw it I immediately remembered that I’d begged in vain for this weird item as a Hanukkah gift, only to come up empty. This very well could have been my Rosebud – the thing that without even realizing it set the stage for an adulthood of staying up way too late on internet forums looking for a great deal on a pre-owned Seiko. When I saw Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny a few weeks ago, it occurred to me that this movie could be that defining moment for a new generation of watch enthusiasts. Hyperbole? I don’t know, maybe. The movie features, as a primary plot point, a mechanical watch-like device, referred to in the film as the Antikythera. Hardcore watch enthusiasts and horology scholars know that the Antikythera is very much a real thing, even if the version in the new film comes out of the imagination of the screenwriters. But it’s that nebulous “real or not real?” status that I imagine will make some younger, future watch nerds curious, and set them down a path that leads, inexorably, to sites like this one, and spending way ...

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