Deployant
Reviewed: two new Breitling Chronomats in collaboration with Erling Haaland
Breitling collaborates Erling Haaland, on 2 new Chronomat models: Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 in steel and platinum, and the Chronomat B01 42 in red gold.
706 articles · 62 videos found · page 16 of 26
Deployant
Breitling collaborates Erling Haaland, on 2 new Chronomat models: Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 in steel and platinum, and the Chronomat B01 42 in red gold.
Fratello
It’s that time of the week again, and we are back with a heated Sunday Morning Showdown. This time, Daan and Jorg will battle it out in a clash of lightweight titanium divers that they would love to wear this summer. Daan picked the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. Its solar-powered quartz caliber makes […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Vs. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive U.F.A (SLGB003) sets a new benchmark in mechanical watchmaking with an astonishing ±20 seconds per year accuracy. Wrapped in a new slimmer Evolution 9 case and finished with a dial inspired by winter in Shinshu, it’s a masterclass in subtle innovation and timeless elegance. What We Love The Calibre 9RB2 delivers an incredible +/- 20 seconds per year, redefining what is possible from a mainspring-powered mechanical movement The new 37mm case size makes the timepiece highly wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The beautifully textured dial captures Grand Seiko’s unique blend of craftsmanship and storytelling. What We Don’t While very comfortable, the standard three-link bracelet feels a little too plain for a release of this calibre. For a groundbreaking caliber, the caseback view feels a little subdued. For such a significant release, the design feels a little too in line with previous Evolution 9 models. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Grand Seiko was first established in 1960 as a sister brand to Seiko, created to combat the Swiss watchmakers and their high-end luxury timepieces. While Seiko made affordable everyday timepieces, It was Grand Seiko’s role to create unique, innovative pieces that would cater to the luxury and high-end watchmaking market. Among the many different innovations and stunning dial aesthetics, one key aspect that truly makes Grand S...
SJX Watches
J.N. Shapiro’s Infinity Series Pure is a new entry point into the American brand. This follows the top-of-the-line Resurgence, the most American-made mechanical wristwatch built since Hamilton shut down in the 1960s. This new model focuses purely on the dial and hands, which are excellent, while trusting Swiss suppliers with ancillary details like the case and caliber. The result is a much more accessible, though less impressive, watch than J.N. Shapiro’s usual fare. Initial Thoughts When the original Infinity line was discontinued in 2023, it left the brand without an entry-level watch, and the company put all of its efforts behind the ambitious Resurgence project. Now that things have settled down, the team once again has the bandwidth to support a second model. The Infinity Series Pure uses an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret (LJP) movement. While a good, slim movement with an extended power reserve, the LJP F200/7380 isn’t particularly premium, and a downgrade from the UWD cal. 33.1 used in previous infinity models. For example, Ralph Lauren uses the LJP movement in its Vintage 67 line priced at around US$3,000. The case is also outsourced, likely to a Swiss manufacturer, through the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a consortium of independent brands that J.N. Shapiro helped found. This focuses all of Shapiro’s attention on the dial and hands, though both are significantly less complex than on the Resurgence. At US$26,000 the Infinity Series Pure is about a ...
Fratello
The Rolex Land-Dweller was the most talked-about release of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Regardless of whether the watch appealed to everyone, due to the groundbreaking new caliber and revival of the Oysterquartz design, the general impact of the Land-Dweller was palpable. We had an opportunity to experience the 36mm and 40mm models during Watches […] Visit What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? to read the full article.
Fratello
Breitling and Fratello hosted an event at the brand’s beautiful boutique in The Hague a few weeks ago. During this event, guests could try out the new Breitling Top Time B01 models, including the new Martini Racing edition. To boost the event, Breitling arranged for a Lancia Delta HF in Martini execution to serve as […] Visit Photo Report: Fratello × Breitling Martini Evening to read the full article.
Fratello
Rolex surprised friend and foe with a new movement at this year’s Watches and Wonders. While that’s always a relatively big deal in our little horological sub-universe, caliber 7135 represents a particularly big milestone. Rolex developed a brand-new escapement dubbed Dynapulse. We felt it was about time we took a closer look at it. Of […] Visit An In-Depth Look At The New Rolex Dynapulse Escapement to read the full article.
Hodinkee
In the third installment of our four-part series in partnership with Omega, an entrepreneur and medical professional shares his pre-Moon caliber 321.
Hodinkee
In the second installment of our four-part series in partnership with Omega, the Washington National shares his pre-Moon caliber 321.
Hodinkee
The brand celebrates it's 270th anniversary with a brand-new caliber, limited to 127 pieces.
Hodinkee
A new case size also brings a new caliber, the brand's 75th.
Hodinkee
A new collection, a newly reworked vintage Caliber 135, and Zenith's 160-year pursuit of accuracy.
Hodinkee
The storied brand releases a brand-new minute repeater and revisits the 4th caliber of their Gyrotourbillon exploration.
Hodinkee
A new hand-wound caliber with advanced architecture yields a beautiful 8 day power reserve in a Calatrava case.
Hodinkee
Don't call it XL, but maybe "Jumbo," the newest Tank LC features a self-winding caliber, for the first time in decades.
Fratello
In celebration of its quarter-century anniversary, Gerald Charles presents the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition. This is a jump-hour watch with an in-house-designed caliber. Naturally, the new timepiece features the brand’s signature baroque case shape, but it is fully modernized with Grade 5 titanium construction. We’ve covered the majority of new releases from Gerald Charles […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition to read the full article.
Deployant
Angelus releases a new collection with the Flying Tourbillon Titanium, adopting the maison's signature open work style and a new hand-wound caliber.
Fratello
Today, Grand Seiko introduces the SLGH027 “Mountainscape,” a limited-edition watch celebrating the brand’s 65th anniversary. The piece features the automatic Hi-Beat 9SA5 caliber, which debuted in 2020. As part of the Evolution 9 collection, this watch is not retro at all but a modern reference with stunning details. Grand Seiko always has a strong start […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
Ever since the Big Bang Meca-10 came out in 2016, the watch has stood out thanks to its 10-day caliber with a Meccano-inspired architecture. This year, though the 10-day power reserve isn’t new, some other things are. The re-engineered Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 now measures 42mm in diameter and comes in three variations. You can […] Visit Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Twenty-twenty four marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s 9R Spring Drive movement platform, an occasion the brand has chosen to mark with a range of anniversary editions including the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary SBGC275. A large, richly detailed watch with a captivating dial, the SBGC275 is robust, interesting, and capable of nearly anything, short of fitting under a short cuff. Initial thoughts At first glance, the SBGC275 looks like just a Spring Drive chronograph with a red dial. But a closer look reveals a highly nuanced colour that changes from red to orange depending on the angle – the result of a proprietary dial coating technique. At 44.5 mm in diameter and nearly 17 mm thick, the SBGC275 is unapologetically big and bold. That said, the watch feels smaller than it is thanks to the use of titanium for the case and bracelet, and the unusually wide 23 mm lug width helps reduce the visual size. This latter dimension may limit the options for aftermarket straps, but since most owners will likely stick with the bracelet, this concern is largely academic. The watch is powered by an upgraded version of the familiar cal. 9R86 Spring Drive chronograph GMT movement, which made its debut in 2007. But eagle-eyed movement geeks will notice the SBGC275 is equipped with the fine-tuned cal. 9R96 first seen in 2017, which was also used in the Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary edition. In many ways, the SBGC275 captures Grand Seiko’s strengths and weaknesses. The b...
Fratello
The new Berneron Mirage 34 joins last year’s 38mm models in the small brand’s growing lineup. As we’ll see, these aren’t simply downsized editions. Each model showcases a stone dial and a new caliber. Hint: these are my favorite watches of this year so far. Sylvain Berneron is the name behind the eponymous brand he […] Visit The New Berneron Mirage 34 - My Favorite Watch Of 2024 to read the full article.
Fratello
Three years ago, I had the pleasure of wearing the Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet for a little while. The combination of a 40mm steel case with a characteristic stepped bezel, a classic white dial, and a complete-calendar caliber proved an impressive watch at a competitive price. I wrote that the watch that bucks the retro […] Visit A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet to read the full article.
Fratello
On this very day, October 1st, 25 years ago, I bought my first Omega Speedmaster watch. I was a student at the time and obsessed with watches, specifically, Omega Speedmasters. My first purchase was a Speedmaster 145.012 with caliber 321. One evening, I was cycling in the city center of The Hague and passed a […] Visit My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional to read the full article.
Fratello
The Seiko Astron GPS Solar with an easy-wearing tonneau case design debuted in the spring of 2022. This series started with four models housing Seiko’s 5X53 dual-time movement, and after that, several models followed, including ones with the chronograph caliber 5X83. Now three new, simpler references assume their places in the core collection. The dark […] Visit Introducing: Three New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Watches - SSJ023, SSJ025, And SSJ026 to read the full article.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we continue our exploration of legendary movements. For this list, we have selected five classics with the famous Valjoux 72. As you will see, this chronograph caliber powered some of the most legendary watches that horology fans love. That’s why creating a list of the five standout Valjoux 72-powered […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
When shopping for a new watch, the movement is often a point of consideration for many enthusiasts. But what does it do? Simply put, the movement, often referred to as a “caliber,” is the engine powering the watch and regulating the rotation of its hands. While some may feature additional features called complications, their primary duty is accurate time-telling. Today, we’ll walk through the basic differences between manual, automatic, and quartz movements. When shopping for a new watch, the movement is often a point of consideration for many enthusiasts. But what does it do? Simply put, the movement, often referred to as a “caliber,” is the engine powering the watch and regulating the rotation of its hands. While some may feature additional features called complications, their primary duty is accurate time-telling. Today, we’ll walk through the basic differences between manual, automatic, and quartz movements. The post The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko announced the new 9SA4 caliber and the first two watches featuring it, the SLGW002 and SLGW003. As a refresher, the 9SA4 is a manual hi-beat (36,000 bph), 80-hour, time-only caliber featuring their in-house dual-impulse escapement, first seen in the 9SA5. With a power reserve on the back of the movement, beautiful bridge designs and finishing, and a unique “wagtail-bird-shaped” winding click, it set a new bar for Grand Seiko’s mechanical calibers. But, perhaps just as exciting as the movement itself was that the watches featuring it were sized at an idyllic 38.6mm diameter and 9.95mm thickness with a 20mm lug, addressing the naysayer’s concerns around Grand Seiko’s sizing. While a pair of fantastic releases, since introduction, we have been wondering where we will see this movement next. Well, we just got our answer, and I have to tell you, I’m equally surprised and delighted. They went vintage rather than with the new case and a different dial, which would have been most expected. Yes, they decided to bring back, as a limited edition, of course, a “recreation” of the 45GS from 1968. A little history, the 45GS came out a year after the 44GS and featured the same case design, but differed in that it featured the brand’s first hi-beat manual wound movement, the 4520. The SLGW005 – the return of the 45GS The 44/45GS case defines the Grand Seiko “Grammar of Design” as set out by Taro Tanaka, with flat, Zaratsu poli...
SJX Watches
Breitling marks its 140th anniversary with a new calibre, the B19. Based on its longstanding B01, the B19 adds a perpetual calendar on top to create the most complicated in-house calibre in the brand’s stable. The B19 is making its debut in three different models, all clad in 140th anniversary livery: the Premier B19 Datora 42, Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar, and Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar. Initial thoughts One of the most sophisticated chronograph constructions in the mid range of the price spectrum, the B01 gains a worthy upgrade with the perpetual calendar. Granted the additional complication adds substantial height to the case – all of the three models are well over 15 mm high – but that’s acceptable for a self-winding chronograph with perpetual calendar. Interestingly, the B01 base movement of the B19 has been upgraded over the standard version with some improvements (no doubt courtesy of Kenissi, which bought the rights to the B01 construction), though it’s uncertain if these will make their way into the plain B01. Though all three are identical mechanically, they look and feel different. The Super Chronomat is super chunky and the largest of the three, while the Navitimer and Datora are slightly more compact and definitely more retro in terms of style. The old-school, four-register calendar layout arguably suits the vintage-inspired style better. All three retail for US$59,000, which is par for the course for this double com...
Fratello
This past June, Breitling invited me to its Chronometrie facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The tour offered an opportunity to see the various Breitling manufacture calibers in different production states. The meticulous yet efficient nature of the assembly leads to a robust and reliable B01 chronograph movement along with modules for calendar and GMT functions. […] Visit Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches to read the full article.
Deployant
Grand Seiko releases a new watch in the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGA499.
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