Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH003 Hi-Beat 60th Anniversary LE, Featuring The New Dual Impulse Escapement
Grand Seiko's new Hi-Beat caliber 9SA5, in steel for the first time.
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Grand Seiko's new Hi-Beat caliber 9SA5, in steel for the first time.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has progressively introduced a diverse line up of watches to mark its 60th anniversary, ranging from a remake of the vintage 3180 to the heavily jewelled 8 Days to the T0 Constant Force Tourbillon, while also opening the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi production facility. Now the brand has finally reached the last of it anniversary watches with the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Caliber 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours SLGH003. Although the 60th anniversary watches are numerous, the most significant was the Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002, which was powered by the newly-developed 9SA5, the first of a new generation of movements that will underpin the Grand Seiko collection. The SLGH002 was available only in 18k yellow gold and correspondingly pricey, but now the movement is available in the all-steel SLGH003. Initial thoughts From the perspective of being a more affordable version of the yellow-gold SLGH002, the SLGH003 is appealing. It’s still an expensive watch – the retail price is US$9,700 – but a lot less than the US$43,000 of the gold model. But from the perspective of it being one of several anniversary editions, many of which share the same dial colour, it is less appealing. That is especially so given that the 9SA5 movement will inevitably be made available in regular-production models that will probably cost a bit less. So if the colour and design is a big draw, then the SLGH003 is a buy. If not, just wait for the next one. Anniversary livery The SLGH003 h...
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Grand Seiko unveils a concept caliber T0 - Constant-Force Tourbillon with an interesting new double cage design for a remontoir tourbillon.
Grand Seiko's new concept tourbillon is its first tourbillon, and its first constant-force caliber as well.
Quill & Pad
Fifteen years after its original launch, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone gets a mechanical upgrade in the form of a new caliber that includes a daylight savings time indication among other new features. Elizabeth Doerr looks at the Lange 1 Time Zone's evolution and what's so very special about this new model.
A classic Patek caliber is reworked to become a museum on the wrist.
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The Lange 1 Time Zone gets an update with a new in-house caliber movement and dial changes 15 years after its introduction. What has changed? What remains?
Hodinkee
The new Hi-Beat caliber offers the first new series-produced escapement in over two decades.
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F. P. Journe celebrates 20 years of the Chronomètre à Résonance with a new rendition of the resonance watch, with a new movement - the caliber 1520.
A complicated Portugieser is the new home for IWC's caliber 89900.
The Privé Collection Asymétrique debuts with an openworked in-house movement, caliber 9623 MC
Revolution
On its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko goes modern with a new Spring Drive caliber, that takes its modern watchmaking to a new level.
Time+Tide
The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Fratello Exclusive is produced in a limited run of 29 pieces, and are all individually numbered on the caseback. The 42mm 3 parts-case holds a convex sapphire crystal and clear caseback revealing the inner workings of the FC-712 caliber. The two counters of the moonphase and date are respectively … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Every year there’s a couple of timepieces that, for one reason or another, slip under the collective radar of us watch enthusiasts. There were more than a few examples in 2019: think the Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100, Rado Golden Horse, Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic … the list goes on. But the watch that tends … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection Ref. L2.673.4.92.0 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Omega has delivered on what the Speedmaster community has been demanding for a while now. The big difference between the previous Omega 1863 Caliber and the new Omega 321 Caliber is that the 321 has a column wheel actuator for the chronograph. This is in contrast to the 1863 Caliber's cam-actuated chronograph function.
The third-generation watchmaker will discuss the evolution of Caliber 321. (The movement that went to the Moon!)
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The Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar in steel is priced at €15,000 and is easily one of the lowest priced, if not the lowest priced Swiss made perpetual calendar in the market at retail. It's a good looking watch with a good caliber.
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Breguet’s big novelty this year is the new Classique Tourbillon Squelette 5935. Ultra thin caliber 581 automatic movement with peripheral rotor has about 50% of the mass removed in the skeletonising process. The case in RG, 41mm. Next the range of the Reine de Naples is extended with two new additions. One with a blueRead More
Time+Tide
Sid Mashburn is a veteran menswear designer with an eponymous label. He also has quite nice taste in watches. Mr Mashburn, his clothes and his watches are all on show in this video from US-based retailer Crown & Caliber. I’ve found that there’s usually a degree of overlap in the Venn diagram of clothes guys and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Menswear legend Sid Mashburn explains his watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Grönefeld introduces a new tourbillon for this year. New caliber for the Grönefeld 10th Anniversary – Decennium. Automatic flying 1 Minute tourbillon in a SS cage. Plat case 39.5mm x 10.5mm height. Slate grey dial in solid silver. LE 10pcs numbered 1 out of 10. Price €145,000 before taxes. Peter Chong Live from Baselworld
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F. Berthoud has always been a favorite of ours. And this Basel, they introduce a new caliber. Equipped with an age of the moon display, the movement is based FB-1 but 30% of the caliber has been reworked to add the new functionality. The age of the moon is displayed on a sector dial atRead More
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We have admired Citizen and their technical prowess since we visited their facilities in Japan last year and have had extensive hands on with a few of their watches. For 2019, the caliber 0100 which was shown as a prototype with a sapphire crystal case in pocket watch format last year makes its commercial appearanceRead More
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Grand Seiko's new slim design in the Elegance Collection. Four new watches in a new case design with a new manual-winding caliber, 2 with urushi dials.
Revolution
Omega creates a fittingly special watch to mark the 125th year of the 19-ligne caliber that gave the company its name.
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We divi right into the novelty. The Bridge. The first rectangular case with a firm movement. New caliber from LF. Two dial variations. In white enamel grand feu and in slate grey silver dial. CHF33,000 before taxes and CHF 37,000 for the enamel dial. Spherical sapphire over the dial. Laurent Ferrier Gallet Traveller and theRead More
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We hit the Independents next. First stop Speake-Marin. Four new watches. First off a new two timezone watch, new caliber, the 1 and 2 Dual Time Retrograde. Avail in Ti and gold. Two sizes 38mm and 42mm. Limited edition in gold 22×2 and in Ti 33×2. From S$32,000 for Ti and S$50,000 in gold. TheRead More
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Parmigiani Fleurier next. Here are the novelty highlights. Toric Perpetual Calendar. Two dials are available. The hand guiloche dial version is 1k more at CHF 69,000. Case 42.9mm rose gold case. Caliber PF333, automatic, with a 22k gold rotor. The slate color dials are quite muted in tone, allowing the guilloche to shine. Toric HemisphereRead More
Time+Tide
In the wonderful world of Grand Seiko, if it’s not using a quartz crystal – and, yes, that includes the Spring Drive – then inside is a Caliber 9S movement. Introduced in 1998, the Caliber 9S is the staple of all mechanical Grand Seikos and forms the base for everything from humble three-handers to hi-beats … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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This new SBGJ229G Ceramic Hi-Beat limited edition speaks of both the past and the future and does so in the spirit of the 9S caliber that it celebrates.
Oris’ manual-winding 10-day power-reserve movement now comes with a universally appealing GMT function in the Caliber 114.
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