Hodinkee
This Lucky Man Buys Thousands of Watches For a Living
An interview with Crown & Caliber's Mark Hackman.
Results for Crown Guards
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Hodinkee
Revolution
Introducing the Oris Okavango Air Rescue Limited Edition
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Okavango Air Rescue Limited Edition celebrates the landmark achievements of Botswana’s aeromedical rescue organization
Deployant
Review: new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli - super quick switcheroo
Detailed review of the new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli, with quick interchangeable bezel, crown and strap mechanism.
Time+Tide
Fitness model Jen Selter understands the robust elegance of a Rolex Datejust
When it comes to wristwatches, Rolex is the manufacturer known as “the crown”, but the queen of fitness is American model Jen Selter. With over 12 million followers on Instagram, Selter took the world by storm with the “Seltering” pose trend and became widely known for having “the best butt on Instagram”. But to get … ContinuedThe post Fitness model Jen Selter understands the robust elegance of a Rolex Datejust appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge
The new Seiko Presage Style 60’s range may be initially confusing. The inspiration lies in their 1964 Seiko Crown Chronograph, except that this new imagining doesn’t have a chrono pusher or a stopwatch function at all. Instead we have a slim, stylish interpretation in a three-hand elegant 40.8mm case, and all the right vintage cues. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Just Because: We Are Dying To Play Backgammon On This Vintage Rolex-Themed Set
Roll the dice, take the crown.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Is Getting Into Pre-Owned Watches. What Does That Mean for You?
It's an honor to welcome the entire Crown & Caliber family into our community.
Hodinkee
Culture Of Time: How One Rolex Became The NBA’s De Facto Starter Watch
Even the King wears this particular solid gold Crown.
Quill & Pad
The Schmidt List: Top 5 Funky Clicks
The click spring is one of the smaller components of a mechanical watch, but it is of enormous importance. Ever wondered why the crown doesn’t retaliate furiously and unwind every time you crank it? Without the click spring, a wound mainspring would immediately – and explosively – uncoil like a raging viper in a hat box.
WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Extreme Hands-on Review
Pros: Love the easy quick change strap systemScrew-in crown and 200m water resistance Sapphire dial and increased legibility Cons: Wrist sizes smaller than 6.5ich won’t be able to enjoy the 45mm case size Some may find it to be too thick on the wrist Some may find it expensive compared to Defy 21 range Over All Rating: 8.4/10 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 If there is one phrase I don’t hear enough of, it’s “put the watch on your wrist”, as that is where it’s meant to go, and that is the best place to judge whether a watch suits you or not. Watches are immensely personal, and quite often how it wears and how it looks on your wrist is completely different to how a watch looks on a fancily posed, laid out and propped image on Instagram. Always try the watch on. Reference : 95.9100.9004/01.I001 on a 6.5 inch wrist However, isn’t this the case today? We scroll through images, each getting perhaps a fraction of a second of attention, and even if we do stop to read the text, it’s a quick skim, and then, just as quickly, a comment is left, and without any further thought, we move on to the next shiny new thing. Before touching or even seeing something in person, a judgement call is made. Reference : 87.9100.9004/03.I001 on a 6.5 inch wrist The Zenith Defy Extreme is one such watch where it was dismissed online too quickly because of a number (in this case the diameter), which many deemed too high up...
Time+Tide
The 2021 Rolex Collection ranked from least to most surprising
Rolex is known for incremental change so “surprising” is not really the brand’s forte. Having said that, the new range definitely contains some curveballs this year, both in terms of the Crown’s choices and a few unexpected pieces in particular. That’s why I decided to rank all of the new 2021 Rolex Collection novelties from … ContinuedThe post The 2021 Rolex Collection ranked from least to most surprising appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Cartier Debuts Ballon Bleu Automatic 40 mm
Having made its debut 15 years ago, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier is an upstart by the Parisian jeweller’s standards – the Santos and Tank, for example, are both over a century old. But the Ballon Bleu was an instant hit, thanks to its classically round case with a quirky and captivating crown, making it one of the brand’s best sellers. Now a new size has joined the line up, the Ballon Bleu 40 mm powered by the in-house 1847 MC automatic movement. It sits in between the 36 mm medium and 42 mm large automatic models, neither too big nor too small for current tastes (Cartier already has a 40 mm that is hand-wind). The new 40 mm automatic also incorporates a practical upgrade: the brand’s proprietary quick-release system for the bracelet and strap. And finally, the new size also includes new dials in a simpler, metallic finish – in either blue and grey – giving it a more contemporary look. The most traditional of the Ballon Bleu variants with a silver guilloche dial Initial thoughts The Ballon Bleu is over a decade old but still attractive in a timeless manner that Cartier’s classic designs always manage to be. But it’s unusual among the brand’s best-known watch designs. While the signature Tank and Santos watches are characterised by straight, hard lines, the Ballon is a made up of spheres and domes of varied sizes – the crown, case, crystal and even the case back are all lightly rounded, giving it a pebble-like feel that’s a little organic. Given the B...
Time+Tide
The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST Ceramic is a super deep diver (to the tune of 1km)
Ball’s Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST has been known for many things – the monobloc titanium case, an automatic helium escape valve built into the crown, lume you could light a nightclub with – but it’s fair to say it hasn’t always been fêted for handsome looks. Sure, last year’s DeepQUEST II had a personality to match … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST Ceramic is a super deep diver (to the tune of 1km) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Oris TLP Albacete Limited Edition
Originally launched in 2016, the Oris Big Crown Propilot Big Day Date is now available as a limited edition in partnership with the Tactical Leadership Programme, an elite pilot training school in Albacete, Spain.
Time+Tide
Study explores the psychological reasons for posting on Rolex forums. Here’s what it found…
Let me pose a little thought experiment. How much have Rolex online forums cost the global economy in terms of wasted productivity in the workforce? How many hours are lost speculating over the Crown’s possible new releases, comparing advice on how to change an Oysterflex, or conducting snap polls on whether to buy the GMT … ContinuedThe post Study explores the psychological reasons for posting on Rolex forums. Here’s what it found… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Day Jewelry Watch
Having first unveiled one set with diamonds and blue sapphires last year – that no doubt sold out briskly – Grand Seiko has just announced the Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Day Jewelry Watch 140th Anniversary (ref. SBGD207). This is similar to last year’s model – a Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8 Day with the dial, flange, and crown set with diamonds and garnets – combining the refined, artisanal movement finishing of the Micro Artist Studio with lavish gem-setting. Initial thoughts Last year’s sapphire-set 8 Day watch was impressive and truly special, being the first highly-jewelled, mechanical men’s watch from Seiko (or Grand Seiko) in two or three decades. The new SBGD207 in green is equally impressive, though it does reduce the unique nature of the original. Being a variant of the Spring Drive 8 Day, the SBGD207 will wear much like the standard model, which is extremely hefty and large for a Grand Seiko, and slightly top heavy on the wrist. The mass of the watch probably works better with the lavish gemstone setting, making the sparkle as over the top as the size. And because the SBGD207 has a green mother of pearl dial, it probably has more flash than last year’s model that had a grained, silvery dial finish. And the movement will be equally refined, having all the hand-finished intricacy of the 9R01 in the standard model. Though finely decorated, the movement lacks visual detail, because almost all of it is hidden under a single, massive barrel b...
Quill & Pad
All 4 New Rolex 2020 Collection Updates Plus One Watch You Might Have Missed
While 2019 brought subtle improvements for Rolex’s mainstay watch lines, a rocky 2020 brought uncertainty – first we weren’t sure Rolex would release anything at all given the pandemic, which was followed by widely talked about updates for four of the crown’s pillar collections. The new 2020 models saw subtle changes for improvement and perfection rather than anything revolutionary. And lots more color!
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Sinn R500 Chronograph
Announced just a few months ago, the R500 Chronograph was unexpected for Sinn. Retro and funky at the same time, the R500 departs from the typical Sinn fare of no-nonsense, aviation-instrument watches. The R500 is straight out of the 1970s in style, with a hockey-puck case that has the pushers and crown at 12 o’clock, a retro configuration often known as “bullhead”. But like all Sinn watches, the R500 is a big, robust, and functional timepiece. The diametrically opposite blend of retro fun and tangible seriousness lies behind the R500’s appeal. Initial thoughts Though best known for their utilitarian, and almost military, style, Sinn sometimes creates novel designs, often for specific markets, like the many limited editions made for Japan. But such watches are mostly out of reach for the average buyer, if for nothing but geography and logistics. The R500, on the other hand, is a limited edition available at Sinn retailers globally, but is also different enough from the brand’s usual watches to make it interesting, especially with the retro “bullhead” layout matched with red and green accents on the power reserve scale. And the R500 is also unusual in being titanium, instead of steel, which is the metal most commonly used for Sinn watch cases. The handful of titanium watches that Sinn offers are also mostly dive watches. In fact, the only intrinsic downside of the R500 is the strap, which is a perfect fit in terms of design, but stiff on the wrist and also dif...
Quill & Pad
Ulysse Collin: Grower Champagnes With Serious Elegance
It seems only appropriate that such a fascinating champagne Grower as Ulysse Collin has an even more fascinating backstory. David heading toward toppling a sparkling Goliath. For well over 200 years, since 1812, the Collin family had worked vineyards in the region and for a century of that time also worked as coopers. The family vineyards were first lost, then recovered, and now the firm goes from strength to strength, slowly but surely building the crown as king of the Grower movement.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial
Last year, the time-only Octo Finissimo watches received a major upgrade in the form of a screw-down crown and improved depth rating of 100 metres. They also received contrasting finishes to the highly faceted surfaces of the case and bracelet. This resulted in a greater play with light and a watch that became both more … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: Why the Rolex GMT-Master II “Bat Girl” trumps the original Caped Crusader
Rolex … oh dear, Rolex … love the watches, hate the limited amount of product available. As much as it would be easy to chalk it up to brand power and allure, the reality is the crown manufacturer makes one hell of a wristwatch. The Rolex name may draw all-comers into purchasing their pieces, but … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Why the Rolex GMT-Master II “Bat Girl” trumps the original Caped Crusader appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Culture Of Time: The Waldorf-Astoria's Iconic Clock, A Gift From Queen Victoria, Is Ready To Run Again
A year-long restoration lets this horological jewel in the crown shine like new.
Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding: All-Gold, Off-Beat Elegance
With the Égérie collection, Vacheron Constantin created a very tempting assortment of watches appealing to contemporary women. While the design of the Égérie is rooted in tradition, these watches always come with a little twist. In the case of the new Égérie Self-Winding, quite literally as the crown is at two o'clock with the date of this self-winding model occupying the same corner of the dial. While also available in steel, Martin Green thinks that the pink gold version on a gold bracelet is an especially precious proposition.
Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Astronomic Souveraine: Reigniting Zest
The Astronomic Souveraine with minute repeater at its core is an astronomical grand complication, and like most F.P. Journe pieces it is incredibly well suited to any wrist and supremely easy to use because all the functions are set and adjusted by the crown. But is that the only reason Joshua Munchow loves it?
Quill & Pad
Steve McQueen, The Set Of ‘Le Mans,’ And A Surprising Cartier Tank - Reprise
In the 1968 film 'The Thomas Crown Affair,' Steve McQueen played the title character, a millionaire businessman and avid sportsman involved in a cat-and-mouse game with an insurance claims investigator played by Faye Dunaway. McQueen chose two of his personal watches to wear in the film: an elegant Cartier Tank Cintrée and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox. But when Nick Gould looked further into this, he discovered that contrary to popular opinion McQueen also surprisingly owned a Tank.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field
The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a noteworthy remix. It takes the tried and true, double-crown, super compressor-style case of the original and breathes fresh life into it with the new material. The warmly toned bronze eliminates all of the conservative, vintage-inspired character of its steel sibling, and dramatically increases the level of rustic charm … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag
To the average punter, casual enthusiast or proper aficionado, there is one brand that manages to muscle itself into just about every current conversation about watches. And the king rightly wears the crown. But there’s a problem for many, should they intend to deepen their own relationship with Rolex. Namely, the inflated prices that we … ContinuedThe post WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Legend Diver Watch in Bronze
For watch enthusiasts, Longines’ forte is its Heritage collection, a series of well-priced vintage remakes that began with the Legend Diver of 2007. Based on the ref. 7042 of 1960s, which had a distinctive, twin-crown “Super Compressor” case, the Legend Diver is a bestseller thanks to its convincingly retro style. And now Longines has just unveiled the Legend Diver Watch in bronze, which has a new case material for the model, but does away with the date function long panned by aficionados. Initial thoughts Bronze is a popular case material for dive watches that was once exotic but is now a bit too faddish, being found on watches priced as low as a few hundred dollars. Its desirability comes from its unusual, evolving appearance from the patina that develops on its surface as its oxidises. A Legend Diver in bronze is a natural move – and the watch looks good, while retaining the appealing affordability typical of Longines. While the material is the highlight, the dial has been tweaked to match the bronze case. Most notable is the elimination of the date display found on the standard, steel Legend Diver but not on the original, which brings the design of the bronze model closer to the vintage model. At the same time, the dial has a smoked, green finish that matches the colour of bronze well. With a price tag of US$3,000, the bronze Legend Diver is about 30% more expensive than its steel counterpart. It’s a modest and fair premium, considering both the case mate...
Deployant
Franck Muller Master Banker 7880
The Franck Muller Master Banker is the brand's take on a travel watch. Opting for a multi subdial display, three timezones are shown and can all be adjusted via 1 crown. This timepiece is part of the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex collection and available in various size and colors.
SJX Watches
Hermès Introduces the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in Titanium
Originally introduced in pricier precious metals – in gold and also platinum – the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel has been given a makeover that renders it more affordable, and arguably more striking. And like last year’s time-only Slim d’Hermès, the key feature is a titanium case. The new perpetual calendar features a twin-metal case made up of a titanium middle along with the bezel, crown, and pushers in either rose gold or platinum. That, combined with the two-tone grey dial, gives it a modern look that goes well with the Slim d’Hermès font that was designed specifically for the model. The Slim d’Hermes font was created by graphic designer Philippe Apeloig to go with the eponymous watch Initial thoughts Hermes’ house style is always elegant, often quirky, and usually distinctive. Already the Slim d’Hermes design is slim and wears well, and probably slightly better in this iteration since the use of titanium would reduce reduce its weight. A simple design characterised by clean lines, the Slim d’Hermes is recognisable in all its iterations thanks to its smart details, like the angled lugs and custom typography. Though the layout of the perpetual calendar is fairly conventional – everything is arranged into four sub-dials – it manages to be slightly unusual thanks to the seemingly random armament of numerals for the second time zone at six, a minor, offbeat detail that is in keeping with the brand’s style. The titanium-and-platinum versi...