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[VIDEO] Tudor Black Bay Retrospective, A Watch The Launched An Era Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Retrospective Jan 13, 2023

[VIDEO] Tudor Black Bay Retrospective, A Watch The Launched An Era

Much has been said about the Tudor Black Bay, here and elsewhere, and it’s ushering in of a new era of heritage inspired watches that’s taken hold throughout the industry. The Black Bay family has grown to include a broad range of watches, from GMTs and chronographs, to two-toned 36mm field watches, but the charm of the classic divers remains as strong today as when they were first released more than 10 years ago. Most of us here, and presumably many of you reading, have seen a Black Bay or two come through our collection at some point over the years, and each year we hold out hope for a particular spec or version of the watch we’d like to see released. It’s just had that kind of an effect on enthusiasts.  As luck would have it, we recently found ourselves with an abundance of Black Bay watches in the office, so we took the opportunity to get them together and discuss the impact it’s had on each of us over the years. Below find a selection of our Black Bay reviews that we’ve published, including some of our favorites like the Black Bay 58, the Black Bay Pro, and the Steel & Gold Chrono. How has the Black Bay impacted your collecting? Which examples have you owned or do you hope to own? Let us know in the comments and be sure to share your ideal Black Bay that you’d love to see Tudor release this year. Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue The Black Bay 58 in blue was a bright spot in an otherwise tumultuous 2020. This was the second version...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 10, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325

When Grand Seiko (GS) made its return in 1998, the inaugural SBGR001 model was powered by the 9S55, the first modern-day GS calibre. Now the brand is marking the 25th anniversary of the 9S movement family with a pair of limited editions. The Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH311 and the Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGR325. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 has a patterned dial, while the more affordable SBGR325 has a dial with a brushed finish. Both are modelled on the original model of 1998 and sport the same 37 mm case. SBGH311 (left) and SBGR325 Initial thoughts With their 37 mm cases and clean styling, the new 9S pair hark back to the GS watches made from the late 1990s to mid 2000s. That is unsurprising since they are meant to commemorate the first model with the 9S movement, which made its debut in 1998. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 does have a fancier pattern dial, but one that is relatively subtle in its shades-of-grey texture. As a result, they will appeal to anyone who wants a smaller, simpler GS watch. Another upside of the relatively simpler execution are the prices, which place the pair amongst the most affordable self-winding GS watches. The SBGH311 is US$6,600 and the SBGR325 about 20% less. SBGR325 Old-school size The SBGH311 has a textured dial in silvery grey inspired by clouds that’s matched with a blued-steel seconds hand. And the “GS” emblem is gilded in a nod to the fact that this is an anniversary edition. Not...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: ‘Tis the season for Christmas Gin Time+Tide
Dec 23, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: ‘Tis the season for Christmas Gin

As a boy, Cam Mackenzie remembers it as the smell of Christmas. There was the rich sweetness of raisins and dates pepped up with cinnamon and infused with the deep tang of brandy. That was the smell that would fill Cam’s family home every Derby Day – the Saturday before the Melbourne Cup – when his late … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: ‘Tis the season for Christmas Gin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; Introduces the M.A.D. 1 “GMT Milano” SJX Watches
MB&F; Dec 15, 2022

MB&F; Introduces the M.A.D. 1 “GMT Milano”

Designed and assembled by MB&F;, the M.A.D. 1 was initially conceived as a limited-edition thank-you for the brand’s longstanding collectors known as the “Tribe” and its suppliers. It then became a standard production model, allowing the wider public access to the most affordable creation ever released by the independent watchmaker. Now MB&F; has created a limited edition for GMT Italia, the retailer owned by the Corvo family, the M.A.D. 1 “GMT Milano”. Initial thoughts MB&F; embodies independent watchmaking, in my opinion, because it creates a whimsical yet alluring timepiece with authentic design and ingenuity. But its creations, typically priced in the six figures, are out of reach for the average collector. That’s where the M.A.D. 1 comes in. The M.A.D.1 “GMT Milano” costs the same as the regular production model, making it an appealing proposition for something with the flavour of avant-garde independent watchmaking without breaking the bank. With only 30 pieces, it will no doubt sell out immediately, but lucky 30 buyers will definitely have an uncommon M.A.D. 1 edition that stands out from its peers. More broadly, the M.A.D. 1 is avant-garde in terms of design and certainly looks like an MB&F; creation – but it is executed in a very economical manner. While the design is striking, one reservation I have with the M.A.D. 1 is the case construction, which relies on glue to secure all the parts together. But again, for what it retails for, that is accept...

Gwendoline Christie never felt more beautiful on Netflix’s ‘Wednesday’ set wearing Cartier Tank Louis Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Louis Netflix’s Addams Dec 5, 2022

Gwendoline Christie never felt more beautiful on Netflix’s ‘Wednesday’ set wearing Cartier Tank Louis

Netflix’s Addams Family spin-off Wednesday has taken the world by spooky storm, with Jenna Ortega’s self-choreographed dance scene going certified viral. But, while much attention has been given to Ortega’s performance as Wednesday Addams, watch enthusiasts may have clocked Game of Thrones actor Gwendoline Christie sporting a Cartier Tank Louis Large in her role as Nevermore … ContinuedThe post Gwendoline Christie never felt more beautiful on Netflix’s ‘Wednesday’ set wearing Cartier Tank Louis appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jennifer Lawrence joins Longines as an Ambassador of Elegance Time+Tide
Longines as Nov 2, 2022

Jennifer Lawrence joins Longines as an Ambassador of Elegance

We used to run a series called Fantasy Watch Ambassador where the Time+Tide team had a fantasy draft on behalf of various watch brands, pairing them with who they believed would make a great ambassador for the brand. But this is real news. Jennifer Lawrence has officially joined the Longines family as an “Ambassador of Elegance”. While … ContinuedThe post Jennifer Lawrence joins Longines as an Ambassador of Elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Why the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 puts versatility first Time+Tide
Nomos Club Sport neomatik 37 Oct 28, 2022

VIDEO: Why the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 puts versatility first

The Glashütte brand recently introduced a new entry into their affordable Club family with the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37. While this line-up features some of the most affordable models that NOMOS offers, the Club Sport neomatik is a different beast, though its diminutive sizing and simple looks may not suggest so. Through a few … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 puts versatility first appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Which Rolex Movement Takes The Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison Of Rolex Calibers 3135 And 3235, And Which Is Better? - Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Movement Takes Oct 22, 2022

Which Rolex Movement Takes The Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison Of Rolex Calibers 3135 And 3235, And Which Is Better? - Reprise

Ask any watchmaker about the Rolex 31 family of calibers and the story will be the same: it has stood the test of time. Ashton Tracy hasn’t met a single watchmaker who doesn’t love working on these workhorse Rolex movements. They are easy to service, keep great time, and stand up to abuse. Put simply: they work. So how does it stand up to big brother, Caliber 3235? Find out right here!

Delma Introduces the Quattro Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Seiko s many Prospex dive Aug 25, 2022

Delma Introduces the Quattro Diver’s Watch

A small, family-owned brand that focuses on affordable sports watches, Delma already has a half dozen-strong lineup of dive watches, but its latest is certainly the most novel. Rated to 500 m, the Quattro is a chunky dive watch with an unusual feature: the case module can be detached from the lugs and installed on a decompression plate. Initial thoughts Chunky dive watches are common across a wide range of the price spectrum, but most so at the affordable end. So the latest from Delma seems like yet another player on a crowded field. But the Quattro is interesting in a few respects. For one, the wide bezel and recessed crown give it an unusual enough look that it stands apart from the competition. Then there’s main attraction, a bayonet mechanism that allows the watch to be installed on a decompression plate. It’s questionable whether this has much functionality for a diver, but it does make the Quattro different. But detachable case notwithstanding, the Quattro is pricey for a watch powered by a Sellita movement. Seiko’s many Prospex dive watches are about a quarter less expensive, while Sinn’s ultra-robust U1 is only slight more expensive. Three ways Massive at 44 mm wide and 15.3 mm high, the case of the Quattro locks into a frame with the lugs via a bayonet-lock mechanism. A tiny sliding button on the side of the case releases the locking mechanism, while the frame is essentially a milled steel ring with the lugs at each corner. The release button is next to th...

IN-DEPTH: The Titoni Seascoper 600 is a dive watch from a brand you should know more about Time+Tide
Jul 23, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Titoni Seascoper 600 is a dive watch from a brand you should know more about

With the advent of Kickstarter it seems that anyone can start a watch brand these days, but there will always be a certain level of cachet required to be truly respected as a Swiss luxury brand, no matter the price point. So, with over 100 years of honest family-owned operation and consistent high-end products, why … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Titoni Seascoper 600 is a dive watch from a brand you should know more about appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price Time+Tide
Jul 11, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price

There are plenty of watch brands that have been resurrected from the past. But Circula set themselves apart with their authentic German heritage and the benefit of original family ownership. Focusing mostly on high-quality mechanical watches at an attainable price, their latest release is a neat blend of modern functionality and vintage quirkiness in the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Norqain Introduces the Independence 22 Skeleton SJX Watches
Norqain Introduces Jun 27, 2022

Norqain Introduces the Independence 22 Skeleton

A young brand that’s managed to pull together impressive knowhow across the supply chain – most notably by turning to Kenissi for its movements and recruiting Jean-Claude Biver – Norqain is all about affordable, sporty watches. Most of Norqain’s offerings stick to a similar formula, but of its more interesting watches is the newly-launched Independence 22 Skeleton. Sellita-powered and open-worked, the model was originally released as a 100-piece run with a DLC-coated case and bracelet. The limited edition sold briskly, which explains the new, regular-production version in steel with a tone-on-tone look that’s arguably better looking than its all-black predecessor. Initial thoughts Skeletonised watches that are affordable – meaning a retail price of US$5,000 or less – often look the part. Such watches are usually plain and occasionally cheap looking, purely as a consequence of price constraints. But the Independence 22 Skeleton manages to avoid that and it looks good as the sum of its parts. The Independence skeleton gets a lot right. To start with, the case measures 42 mm wide and 11.8 mm tall – it’s a big watch but the width-to-height ratio is well balanced; a smaller case would have made it seem disproportionately thick. The movement has been intricately open worked and most of the brass wheels have been rhodium-plated for a consistent, monochromatic appearance that illustrate the attention to detail in its design. Combined with the raised chapter ...

EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer Time+Tide
Patek Philippe ad if you will Jun 19, 2022

EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer

EDITOR’S NOTE: Blame it on a certain Patek Philippe ad if you will, but the idea of the watch as a family heirloom passed down from father to son retains a special emotive power. Today, in many parts of the world, it’s Father’s Day and that’s a good enough reason for us to revisit D.C’s … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch celebrate The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee with “How Majestic”, a colour-changing watch Time+Tide
Swatch Jun 2, 2022

Swatch celebrate The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee with “How Majestic”, a colour-changing watch

The British royal family has endured another calamitous year. Prince Andrew cemented his position as a global embarrassment after settling his sex abuse case out of court, Megan and Harry polarised the nation with their self-serving interview on Oprah, and it’s barely a year since Prince Phillip died. As an institution, the monarchy appears increasingly … ContinuedThe post Swatch celebrate The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee with “How Majestic”, a colour-changing watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Top 100 Jewelers In America Teddy Baldassarre
Raymond Weil Victorinox & more Ware May 27, 2022

Top 100 Jewelers In America

The United States of America is home to many fine jewelry and watch retailers, many of them family owned, nearly all of them the product of an inspiring story of American entrepreneurship and perseverance. Here we showcase our choices for the Top 100 Jewelers in America, with each state represented by at least one exceptional business, in alphabetical order by state. Along the way, we’ll name a few important watch brands carried at each retailer, and share some tidbits about their histories, awards and honors, and local charitable efforts in their communities.  Alabama Bromberg & Co. Being in business for more than 185 years has allowed Bromberg to establish a solid reputation in Alabama for selling jewelry timepieces, engagement rings, and gifts. In fact, it is the oldest business operating in the entire state. City: BirminghamStore Hours: Monday - Saturday 10:00 AM - 6:00 PMReputable Brands Sold: Rolex, TAG Heuer, Raymond Weil, Victorinox, & more Ware Jewelers This is a jewelry store that considers its customers to be friends, and it delivers service as if that were the case. Ware Jewelers was founded in 1946 and has strived to hold its strong reputation ever since. City: MontgomeryStore Hours: Monday - Saturday 10:00 AM - 6:00 PMReputable Brands Sold: OMEGA, TAG Heuer, David Yurman & more  Alaska Zhaveri Caribbean Gems Established in 1986, Zhaveri Caribbean Gems has been serving its local community for over 30 years. It is uniquely positioned in the busies...

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultr... May 5, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

The Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a newcomer duo to the Traditionelle collection. It packages Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking prowess in a more feminine product, positioned to be one of the most complicated members of the family alongside a couple of tourbillon models. Complicated watches have often been reserved for larger sizes, so seeing them with proportions … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick” SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser which Apr 29, 2022

English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick”

A pair of watchmakers with English roots, Fears and Garrick have banded together to create a wristwatch that bears the aesthetic of the former while relying on the mechanics of the latter, the Fears Garrick. Founded in 1846 but having gone out of business during the Quartz Crisis, Fears is an English brand that was revived in 2016 by a descendant of its founder. Though it was not in continuous operation, Fears is now one of the oldest, family-owned English watch brands. Its modern-day offerings are all about clean, simple designs inspired by watches from its past catalogue, which are sometimes paired with period-correct, vintage movements. Garrick, on the other hand, was founded in 2014. Sitting in a higher price point than the typical Fears, Garrick’s offerings are constructed with the help of Swiss specialists, including Andreas Strehler, and dressed up with traditional decoration such as engine turning. David Brailsford of Garrick (left), and Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of Fears’ founder Initial thoughts The Fears Garrick is essentially a Garrick S1, the brand’s most impressive offering to date, but redesigned to give it a simpler aesthetic. Though intriguing, the open dial of the S1 has been done away with and the result is minimalist but appealing. I actually prefer the look of the Fears Garrick over the S1. But the Fears Garrick does bring to mind the IWC Portugieser, which is a good thing. For anyone who found the movement of ...