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3,323 articles · 321 videos found · page 16 of 122

The Urwerk UR-230 Arrives in White Ceramic Composite SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-230 Arrives Dec 11, 2024

The Urwerk UR-230 Arrives in White Ceramic Composite

Urwerk is best known for its all-black, sci-fi watches, so the UR-230 Polaris departs from the norm. Cased in white ceramic composite, the UR-230 Polaris incorporates several advancement in terms of materials: the white case is milled from a proprietary fibreglass-reinforced ceramic that is more resistant to impact than conventional ceramic. Notably, the material was developed in-house according to Urwerk. Initial thoughts Although Urwerk has introduced many iterations of the UR-210/220/230, the Polaris is arguably the most interesting to date because of the material. It retains the familiar design of the series, but represents an achievement for Urwerk with the proprietary ceramic-fibreglass composite. The fact that Urwerk is going beyond complications and case design is laudable. The composite addresses one of the weakness of pure ceramic, which is vaunted for its durability and immunity to scratches – that very hardness makes it fragile. Dropped onto a hard surface, for instance, ceramic may crack or break. Moreover, such damage is impossible to repair, making case replacement necessary (and inevitably expensive). The UR-230 Polaris is more expensive than the other models in the series that sport conventions case materials. The higher price is arguably justified considering the new material, although if this new material makes its way into more affordable Urwerk models, then the material would lose some of its novelty. Satellite complication Fibreglass-reinforced cera...

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Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models Fratello
Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models Blancpain has Dec 1, 2024

Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models

Blancpain has been hard at work filling out its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection. Earlier this year, we saw the introduction of two new ceramic Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet models. Several months later, we were treated to the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune and Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback, both in 18K […] Visit Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Line Expands with New Ceramic Models Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Line Nov 12, 2024

Introducing – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Line Expands with New Ceramic Models

A classic from Blancpain‘s range of sports watches, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is a sleeker and more daily-oriented vision of a dive watch. Available in a host of materials (titanium, gold or ceramic), in various sizes and with an array of complications, the brand now returns to classic functions with two new time-and-date editions and […]

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Zenith and Porter-Yoshida Pilot Watches in Green Ceramic SJX Watches
Zenith Oct 30, 2024

Zenith and Porter-Yoshida Pilot Watches in Green Ceramic

Porter, a Japanese cult brand famous for its functional nylon bags, has lent its signature colours to Zenith to create the Pilot Central Automatic Porter and the Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph Porter. The new Pilot duo retain the familiar aviation-inspired design, but in green with orange accents, including for the first time a case in khaki green ceramic. Both models are delivered with two straps: a conventional Cordura-effect rubber strap and a green nylon strap made by Porter. Initial thoughts While the Pilot Porter isn’t an iconic classic like Zenith’s El Primero, it is a unique take on the traditional aviator’s watch that is different but still functional, not unlike Porter bags that are popular for their no-frills quality. The green and orange livery is appealing and avoids the usual pilot’s watch look, but remains entirely legible and utilitarian. Priced at US$11,300 for the time-only variant and US$15,500 for the chronograph, the Pilot Porter is priced comparably to the equivalent regular-production Pilot models. Though both are more expensive than Zenith’s offerings in steel, they are priced reasonably enough considering the material and movement, as well as the competition. Khaki green Porter is the most famous label owned by Yoshida & Co., a Japanese maker of luggage and bags. Usually in dark-coloured nylon with contrast-colour lining, Porter bags are multi-pocketed and useful (and also quite pricey for nylon bags). The Pilot Porter models adopt th...

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Breitling Expands Its Avenger Collection With Five Black Ceramic Night Mission Watches Fratello
Breitling Expands Oct 28, 2024

Breitling Expands Its Avenger Collection With Five Black Ceramic Night Mission Watches

Breitling just unveiled a bunch of new Avenger models. With a handful of new black ceramic Night Mission editions alongside new 46mm titanium and 42mm stainless steel Avenger chronographs, there is plenty to talk about. The Night Mission versions that stand out immediately are the 42mm chronographs with Sand and Turquoise colorways. And what do […] Visit Breitling Expands Its Avenger Collection With Five Black Ceramic Night Mission Watches to read the full article.

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IWC Reveals Details of Ceramic Matrix Composite SJX Watches
IWC Reveals Details Oct 15, 2024

IWC Reveals Details of Ceramic Matrix Composite

Having made its debut with the Big Pilot AMG G 63 a year ago, ceramic matrix composite (CMC) is an innovative material currently unique to IWC in watchmaking. Little was disclosed about the material at launch, but IWC has just released additional detail on CMC. Notably, the material was developed in collaboration with the Deutsches Zentrum für Luft- und Raumfahrt (DLR), or German Aerospace Center, a national research institute specialising in aerospace, travel, energy, and even quantum computing. While novel materials are common in watchmaking, brands rarely reveal the origin of the materials, making this collaboration notable. Moreover, the DLR is a highly regarded, independent technical institute, which arguably gives CMC more credibility (and cachet) than most composites employed in watchmaking. Utilising a space-qualified like CMC in a watch tied to a high-performance SUV, however, seems to be a missed opportunity, though it’s a certainty IWC has plans for the the material. Blocks of CMC Staying true to size Fibre ceramic composites are a new class of materials, which combine the surface hardness of conventional ceramics with high tolerance to mechanical and thermal shocks. DLR’s previous work with ceramic composites revolved around making large components for aerospace applications, namely rockets or satellites. The institute was looking to adapt its short-fibre pressing technology for making smaller, near-net-shape parts – not unlike a watch case. Near-net-sha...

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Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph Fratello
Oct 11, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph

It has been a while since I published a Pre-Owned Spotlight, so I figured I should return in style with watches I can only dream of owning and wearing. Today, I will go on a pretend shopping spree for a pre-owned, high-end chronograph. Do I need a pre-owned, high-end chronograph? Yes, I do, thank you […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph to read the full article.

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Breguet Introduces the Type XX in Rose Gold and Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 chronograph Sep 24, 2024

Breguet Introduces the Type XX in Rose Gold and Ceramic

Having launched the latest-generation Type XX last year, Breguet is adding to the family with the Type XX Chronograph 2067 in rose gold, a new take on the “civilian” aviator’s chronograph. Inspired by a historical design, the latest Type XX features the a 12-hour bezel and three registers, along with a sophisticated, high-frequency chronograph movement. The cal. 728 Initial thoughts While the new Type XX is described by Breguet as being inspired by the vintage Type XX no. 1780 – one of just three vintage Type 20s in gold – it is an entirely modern watch in look and feel. The vintage inspiration is visible,  but the colours, materials, and finishing bestow a polished, modern look, which is a good thing. This contrasts with last year’s Type XX in steel that tried too hard to look vintage with faux-aged lume and lance-shaped hands, which was at odds with the overall look and feel. The new Type XX, on the other hand, looks coherently contemporary. With a dial and hands resembling that of the 1990s-era Type XX, the new chronograph also looks more proportional and balanced, though it retains the same dimensions as last year’s model. Interestingly, though the new Type XX has the date window in exactly the same place as last year’s watch, the date does not look as obvious here. Priced at US$37,900, the new Type XX 2067 is more affordable than the competition. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 chronograph in pink gold, for example, retails for US$49,700. Admittedly, t...

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First Look – The New Gold & Ceramic Breguet Type XX Chronograph (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Breguet Type XX Chronograph Incl Sep 16, 2024

First Look – The New Gold & Ceramic Breguet Type XX Chronograph (Incl. Video)

Probably one of the most emblematic pilot’s chronographs around, and an icon from the Breguet collection, the Type XX was revamped last year, with historic design cues and a high-end flyback movement. The comeback of this important and historically relevant model was made with two watches, one with military inspiration, the Type 20, and one […]

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The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Ceramic and Gold SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 10, 2024

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Ceramic and Gold

First launched in 2021, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph now returns in an appealing combination of materials. The new model shares many similarities with its predecessor, namely the same case design and movement. But it’s now rendered in black ceramic and 18k white gold, matched with pink gold hands. Initial thoughts With the design having been refined over time, it is now clear that the negative reaction to the initial Code 11.59 collection was overdone. Granted, some criticism was justified with the original line-up, particularly for the time-only variants with plain dials (now replaced by guilloche). The most appealing versions of the Code 11.59 are the complications, particularly those with open-worked dials, like the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. The open working of the dial transforms what was a design weakness into strength. Not only does the open dial showcase the mechanics and finishing of the movement, but it also complements the large, contemporary case. The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph a watch executed excellently with little to criticise – except for the case dimensions, which could be more compact. The Code 11.59 design looks larger than it is, so the case wears larger than it measures. Although the price is only available on request, it is in the region of CHF250,000. It’s a big number but comparable to similar complications from Audemars Piguet’s rivals like Vacheron Constantin. But unlike the competition,...

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In-Depth – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric, Sartorial Elegance and High-End Watchmaking Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Sartorial Elegance Sep 6, 2024

In-Depth – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric, Sartorial Elegance and High-End Watchmaking

Coinciding with the arrival of Guido Terreni as CEO of the brand, high-end Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier has undergone a complete restructuring for the past years. This move was initiated by the launch of a significant collection, the Tonda PF, which not only modernized the vision we had of PF but also pushed it into […]

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It Can Dive As Deep As The Mountain Is High: A Hands-On With The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 Fratello
Montblanc Iced Sea Jul 25, 2024

It Can Dive As Deep As The Mountain Is High: A Hands-On With The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810

The new Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 might be the perfect watch for spec-loving divers. Let’s look at the data, the numbers, and the cold, hard facts. Montblanc’s latest dive watch, the flagship of the newly formed Iced Sea collection, has a 43 × 19.4mm case containing no oxygen and is water resistant […] Visit It Can Dive As Deep As The Mountain Is High: A Hands-On With The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 to read the full article.

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Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jul 11, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic

A new livery for one of Zenith’s most popular models, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic shares the styling of its siblings like the Defy Skyline 36 mm but with a few notable tweaks including a white ceramic case and blue-treated skeletonised movement. And though it appears to be a simple time-only watch, the Defy Skyline features a discreet complication in the form of a “lightning” small seconds hand that completes one rotation every ten seconds. Initial thoughts Zenith has recently been playing it safe with new launches by building on current bestsellers, like the Defy Skyline. The new skeleton in white ceramic is a good looking watch, and an excellent execution of one of Zenith’s modern-day classics. The combination is also novel. Although each key element of the watch is common in itself – a skeleton movement plus the white ceramic case and bracelet – they are relatively uncommon together. The Defy Skyline Skeleton on the wrist However, the Defy Skyline arguably tries too hard to capitalise on the recent (and waning) popularity of integrated-bracelet sports watches. It is not difficult to see a resemblance to the Royal Oak, in particular the one-off Royal Oak made for Only Watch 2023, making it a bit cliché. Priced at US$17,500, the Defy Skyline Skeleton in white ceramic is a decent value proposition compared to similar watches, most of which are from pricier brands like Hublot or Audemars Piguet. Besides the ceramic case and bracelet, it stands out ...

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Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe with Ceramic Bracelet SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe Jul 5, 2024

Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe with Ceramic Bracelet

Blancpain just unveiled an all-ceramic bracelet to match the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe models in black ceramic: the time-and-date, flyback chronograph, and Quantième Complet (or triple calendar). Positioned as the entry-level model in the Fifty Fathom collection of historically-inspired dive watches, the Bathyscaphe has long been available in ceramic, so a bracelet is long overdue. According to Blancpain, each link of the bracelet unique in shape and size, so each link has to be manufactured individually, requiring an enormous amount of skilled labour – which helps to explain the price of almost US$8,000 for the bracelet. All three are now available with a matching bracelet Initial thoughts Though it was a pioneer in the dive watch as we know it, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has remained fairly under the radar, despite its relatively strong price-quality ratio. The ceramic bracelet for the Bathyscaphe helps it stand out, as few brands offer a matching bracelet for ceramic watches. While ceramic watch cases are common and found across the price spectrum, ceramic bracelets remain relatively uncommon, especially bracelets that are hand finished with a brushed surface like this. All links are manufactured individually, with each link differing in shape and size The ceramic bracelet is expensive – it costs just under US$8,000 extra compared to the same on a strap. That means the three-hand diver costs US$21,300, while the flyback chronograph and triple calendar are both US$...

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