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Monochrome
The Defy Skyline is Zenith’s answer to the trend of elegant sports watches with integrated bracelets. Introduced in 2022, it has become one of the pillars of the brand’s collections. With its octagonal case and dodecagonal bezel, its design is a modern nod to the 1969 Defy. The Defy Skyline chronograph joined the lineup in […]
Time+Tide
Integrated bracelets and steel? There's more to Genta than just that.The post Gérald Genta perfects colour play with the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith’s latest release is an evolutionary take on its popular sports chronograph with an integrated bracelet: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton builds upon the original version by open working the dial and main plate of the El Primero calibre. The dial is skeletonised to form a star, Zenith’s longtime emblem and a recurring theme of its skeleton watches. Apart from the open-worked dial, the new Defy remains essentially unchanged from the standard model, keeping the same 42 mm octagonal case topped by a 12-sided bezel. Initial thoughts Zenith’s El Primero was a milestone as one of the first automatic chronograph calibres. The new Defy is equipped with the second-generation El Primero, the cal. 3600, which is one of the biggest strengths of the watch. Notably, the movement has a lightning chronograph seconds completing a full revolution every 10 seconds, allowing the chronograph to measure up to 1/10th of a second (if your fingers work the pushers fast enough). That said, the watch does feel a little derivative in terms of design. While the look is not particularly creative or original, it nonetheless presents a visually striking aesthetic. The combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet are done well. Compared to other watches it resembles (from the likes of Audemars Piguet and Hublot), the Defy is arguably better value. Priced at US$15,500, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton is one of Zenith’s pricier offerings, but arguably...
Monochrome
The L.U.C Lunar One was Chopard’s first calendar and astronomy complication. Unveiled in 2005, the model combines a perpetual calendar and a precision orbital moon phase display in a rotating aperture. Twenty years later, Chopard revisits its L.U.C Lunar One with a more compact basin-style case, a trimmer, more legible dial decorated with hand-guilloché in […]
Time+Tide
James McVey is not only a celebrated musician and member of The Vamps, he is also a certified watch lover down bad with "The Sickness".The post James McVey and Andrew each share 3 watches they like to travel with appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix has long been known for its take on accessible luxury, offering nice horological content at decent prices. Back in 2018, ML presented the Aikon Automatic collection, a wide range of models that answered the growing demand for elegant sports watches with integrated bracelets – by using the 1990s Calypso design and remodelling it, […]
Fratello
Time flies when you’re having fun! It has been a full two years since I set off on an adventure to build my dream watch, the VPC Type 37HW. Fratello offered me the fantastic opportunity to chronicle and share the journey with you all. Today, after having fulfilled all preorders, I would like to finish […] Visit Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Something we’ve learned about the Speedmaster over the years is that it can be, quite literally, anything. The Speedy is effectively a brand unto itself, with watches in the collection that strike just about every note possible in watchmaking. There are traditional vintage inspired Speedmasters, modern and tactical Speedmasters, Speedmasters with a jewelry focus, Speedmasters that exist to display Omega’s prowess in chronometry, and Speedmasters that are overtly obsessed with NASA and space exploration. There are even plastic Speedmasters and Speedmasters with Snoopy on the dial (which of those Speedys is made for children is an open question). Speedys come in all sizes, are made in every metal imaginable (plus some not-metals), and, even though Speedmasters are, if nothing else, chronographs, they’ve been made with a whole bunch of other complications as well. This is all just to say that in the world of Speedmasters, it’s hard to be surprised in 2025. So when Omega began teasing a new Speedy on social media recently and the guessing game began, every suggestion seemed possible. Today, Omega announced the new Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite, a 43mm stainless steel Speedy with a meteorite dial (in two finishes) and double moonphase display at 6:00. It also features a new caliber capable of displaying the correct moonphase for both the northern and southern hemispheres. This isn’t the first time Omega has incorporated meteorite into a Speedmaster. My personal ...
Worn & Wound
It probably goes without saying that here at Worn & Wound we think watch collecting is a rewarding hobby that if approached in the right way can bring you a lot of happiness over the course of many years. And unlike, say, tennis, there’s very little risk of injury. And unlike a pursuit like car collecting, you won’t need to buy a separate parcel of real estate to store your collection, unless you happen to be John Mayer (allegedly). And in our opinion it’s an easy hobby to recommend because you can get deep into it without spending a fortune, and we also happen to know there’s a great community of like-minded enthusiasts out there who can provide support, advice, and general expertise along the way. But it’s not all sunshine and daisies. Oh no, not at all. Eventually, the time will come when you need to send a watch in for service, and this is the point where enthusiasts are either made or perhaps run away from watches, never to return. OK, I’m exaggerating somewhat. But the watch servicing process is something that binds all of us together in a way that only shared trauma can. Nobody likes to service a watch. It’s expensive, anxiety inducing, and frequently the process is less than transparent. It can also take what seems like forever to get a watch back once it’s been sent out. Plus, to state the obvious, you have to go without your watch for some indefinite period – the greatest indignity of them all! We love these things as much as one can love “t...
Hodinkee
It's the first of a number of big releases and news to celebrate a major milestone for MB&F;.
Quill & Pad
2025 is MB&F;’s 20th Anniversary and their celebrations kick off with two 20-piece Limited Edition “Longhorns” in stainless steel with rhodium-plated base plates, glossy black lacquer dials, and blued hands.
Monochrome
First presented for the 222nd anniversary of the venerable watchmaker Vacheron Constantin, the 222 was the brand’s answer to the then-growing demand for luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets. The third member of the iconic Holy Trinity of luxury sports watches, next to the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, all three sharing the same base […]
SJX Watches
First launched in 18k yellow gold a little over two years ago, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 finally debuts in stainless steel. Sticking to the familiar vintage-remake template established by the gold model, the 222 retains the familiar “bottle cap” bezel and applied Maltese cross emblem, but in brushed steel. Like the gold model, the 222 “Jumbo” in steel is executed to a high level of fit and finish – certainly superior to that of the vintage original – and it’s presented in the classic livery of a matte blue dial (great) and faux-vintage lume (not so much). More importantly, the steel 222 substantially more affordable than the gold version, about half as expensive in fact. Initial thoughts The 222 in gold was well received at launch in 2022; it helped that the roll-out took place when integrated bracelet sports watches were all the rage. That success made the steel version a certainty. Vacheron Constantin (VC) took a little longer than I expected to unveil the steel 222, but now it’s finally here. The watch is, admittedly, predictable. It has all of the familiar elements found in the vintage originals and then the gold reissue. But it is still appealing, because the quality of execution is high and the proportions of the watch are good. Compare this to a vintage 222 and the improvement in build quality, particularly of the bracelet, is immediately obvious. Although the steel 222 is compact by modern standards, it has the refined quality of a con...
Worn & Wound
With the release of their Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour watch in 2024, Fears built on the already elegant jump hour platform that debuted with their Alliance 01, built in collaboration with Christopher Ward in 2023. Continuing this form, the Bristol-based company has announced the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Edwardian Edition’ to celebrate British Watchmaker’s Day 2025. Limited to 10 pieces and available exclusively at the British Watchmaker’s Day event on Saturday, March 8th, the Edwardian Edition features much of the same elegance as its predecessors, albeit with a few special details. The full-polished sterling silver case-Fears’ second such case in 100 years-wears a London Assay Hallmark, Fears’ own maker’s mark, and a flawless diamond-set crown, while the strap sports a matching sterling silver buckle. Like the original Brunswick Jump Hour, the Edwardian Edition is powered by the Christopher Ward JJ01 jumping hour module, which features automatic winding and a 38-hour power reserve. What sets the Edwardian Edition apart, though, is the stunning, hand-polished white lacquer dial, which features numerals and a Fears’ logo derived from the brand’s Edwardian-era pocket watches; a hand-varnished and diamond-cut glossy black minute hand pops against the multi-layer lacquer. In addition to the dial, an exclusive heritage-inspired hour disc and a maple red Alcantara strap (lined with English Tan calf leather) further elevate the Edwardian Edition. Each watch ...
SJX Watches
To celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, Breguet has done something adventurous with its typically formal dress watch. Created to mark the upcoming Year of the Snake, the Classique 7145 “Snake” is still ultra-thin and time-only, but features a solid gold dial bearing a stylised serpent motif realised with a combination of guilloché and engraving, with translucent green lacquer for colour. Initial thoughts The new Classique has been masterfully reworked to give it an entirely different look that departs entirely from the traditional silvered engine-turning that is a Breguet signature. For fans of Breguet’s old-school aesthetic, this is probably too far from tradition, but for someone seeking something different, this might strike a chord. Aesthetics aside, the guilloché and engraving entail a higher level of craftsmanship than ordinary engine-turned dials. In fact, the snake dial is arguably more complex and refined in technique than the dial on last year’s Dragon edition. The dial complexity is reflected in the price of US$74,600, which is substantially more than the basic time-only Classique, but on par with prevailing retail prices for metiers d’art dials. Exquisite dial work The Classique “Snake” is all about the dial, which highlights the art of engraving, guilloche, and miniature painting. The engraving employs a bas-relief technique that gives the snake a sculptural form. The motif is first sketched and then sculpted by a skilled artisan using chisels...
Monochrome
Lately, it seems that Tissot can do little wrong. Release after release shows an impressive sense of style, historical inspiration and solid mechanics, all the while remaining true to the brand’s relatively affordable pricing strategy. Following the immense success of the PRX Powermatic 80 and subsequent PRX Chronograph collections, Tissot is now pushing the PR […]
Worn & Wound
It’s certainly no surprise that our inboxes here at Worn & Wound continue to be inundated with new releases heralding the year of the snake. The first weeks of January are traditionally a slow period for new watch releases in every category except lunar new year novelties. It’s safe to say that if this type of thing is your primary interest in watch enthusiasm, we are in the midst of what is surely your Super Bowl. While a lot of the new lunar new year releases are extravagant, high end demonstrations of a brand’s craft, there are, thankfully, examples of watches in this vein that are far more approachable. That brings us to the Year of the Snake collection from Swatch, a pair of impressionistic snake themed designs for those who are looking to celebrate the new year on a budget. First up is the Golden Red Bamboo reference, a ultra slim 38mm quartz powered watch with a glimmering gold dial. The dial’s motif appears to be a somewhat abstract idea of a snake rather than a zoologically correct representation of a serpent, and I think it’s better off because of it. The orange accents on the hands and dial make for a nice contrast with the gold, which is extended to the case, crafted from stainless steel and given a PVD gold coating. The strap is described as “leather and textile” and has matching orange embroidery and gold accents. If something a little bigger is more your speed, Swatch has you covered with the Blue and Gold Lithe Dancer reference, part of th...
Monochrome
Unlike the Western tradition of celebrating New Year on a fixed date, the Chinese celebrate it on the second new Moon after the winter solstice. In 2025, Chinese New Year falls on the 29th of January and welcomes the Year of the Snake. Seizing the opportunity to show off the brand’s more creative aptitudes, Breguet […]
Worn & Wound
It is not common practice for us to spend time crafting a hands-on review for watches that sit outside of our personal periphery. There needs to be a thread to pull, some emotion to lean on, and an opinion worth sharing. So, in full disclosure, when arranging a loan for the Gerard-Perregeaux Leureato Chronograph 42mm I did so based on the fact that it had been a while since I had spent any considerable time with a GP and didn’t have any solid thoughts on writing about it. The model is a bit overlooked in the market, has a higher and extremely competitive price point, and has been overshadowed a bit by the titanium version released earlier in 2024. But sitting there with the Laureato Chronograph dial dancing in the light shooting bursts of blue at me, I really began studying the piece. To understand the Laureato though, you must understand the history and a bit of the controversy surrounding it. An oft-forgotten integrated bracelet watch originating from the “golden” Genta age of design, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato can trace its roots back to 1975. While not a Genta design, some believe the Laureato bears a striking resemblance or is a love child of the iconic AP references that gained him eventual fame. For full context, we had the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972, the Baume et Mercier Riviera in 1973, the original Laureato in 1975, the IWC Ingenieur and Patek Philippe Nautilus in 1976, and then the Vacheron Constantin 222 following in 1977. Of course, there are...
Fratello
We’re finally back with another episode of Fratello On Air after a lengthy break from the holidays, illness, and travel! This week, we’re reflecting on 2024 and some key events that shaped the year. Enjoy the episode, and we look forward to 2025! For our listeners, the watch content begins after 27 minutes. This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: Reflecting On 2024 to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Chinese Lunar New Year is just around the corner, and on the 29th of January, the Chinese zodiac welcomes the Year of the Snake. To celebrate the event, Longines unveils a 2,025-piece limited edition of its Conquest Heritage with a rich red gradient dial and a special engraving on the caseback of a snake […]
Monochrome
In an unexpected move and with great noise, LVMH officialised a partnership that was rumoured to be closed for several weeks in October last year. Indeed, LVMH, the world’s largest luxury conglomerate, officially signed on as a Global Partner of Formula 1 in a groundbreaking 10-year deal, with what was certainly one of the most […]
Time+Tide
2024 saw TAG Heuer revive multiple fan-favourite designs, collaborate with tastemakers (including us!), continue to iterate on the popular Carrera Glassbox and even dabble in haute horlogerie.The post Our favourite TAG Heuer watches of 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Apple Watch Here’s a really neat piece and one I haven’t seen before. It’s a vintage original-logo Apple watch. Although this watch looks like it’s from the 80’s, MacOS wasn’t released until 1999, and with the MacOS logo on the original rubber strap, I’m guessing that’s when this watch was released. It has a cool multicolor hands and bezel setup that matches the six color Apple logo. Very unique design with what looks like a blue anodized bezel and integrated hidden lugs with the crazy shaped hands. And the original rubber strap with blue buckle and MacOS logo on it. Great vintage Apple piece if you’re an Apple fan like me. View auction here 1950s Benrus This vintage 1950’s Benrus is super cool and in spectacular condition. The yellow gold fill tank style case has unique sculpted lugs giving it a look that really stands out. The fancy case is excellent with virtually no wearthrough that I can detect from the pictures. The crown is original and signed “Benrus”. The silver dial is about as clean as it gets with these types of 50’s watches and has the cool three color logo bar under the Benrus at 12 o’clock. The movement is clean and runs well per th...
SJX Watches
I was there when the Zeitwerk “Luminous” was launched at SIHH in January 2010, just a few months after the launch of the original Zeitwerk in May 2009. To say that I was impressed with the Zeitwerk “Luminous” when I first saw it that year is an understatement. Already the original Zeitwerk was, and is, a landmark in contemporary watchmaking. A luminous version, well, what could be better? Even though the most complicated Lange debuted that year was the Tourbograph Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange” for the 165th anniversary (an odd milestone to celebrate but that’s another story), the glow-in-the-dark Zeitwerk was the star. Enough of a star that Johann Rupert, the controlling shareholder of Richemont, has been spotted wearing one on several occasions. I was already a longtime fan of the brand, but that Zeitwerk “Luminous” was astonishing. Even though it was, strictly speaking, merely a cosmetic variation, the Zeitwerk “Luminous” was cool – and that was a big deal for a brand like Lange. I wrote this about the watch at SIHH 2010: “[It] is absolutely unconventional… even avant-garde… During the day this has a dark, almost brooding look, but at night it glows tenaciously… This avant-garde PVD Lange is utterly cool (yes, “Lange” and “cool” in the same sentence). It is a tad gimmicky, but the lesson is this: gimmicks are forgiven if a watch is truly high quality and innovative.” I wasn’t the only one who thought that way, because thoug...
SJX Watches
Building on the success of the Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches, an annual design-focused exhibition inaugurated last year, Seiko has just opened the 2025 event Tokyo’s trendy Harajuku district. Open from now till February 16, 2025, this year’s exhibition delves further into combining watchmaking and design in innovative and whimsical ways to create concept watches that are distinct from the brand’s conventional offerings. Amongst the watches designed by six of Seiko’s designers is one conceived for the perfect boiled egg, and even a watch for a vampire that distinguishes between day and night. The “Vampire” watch, distinguished by its red dial and gemstone-accented bezel Among the exhibition’s other notable creations is a “tool watch” for a ninja. Entirely in black, this tells the time in a tactile manner. It’s even paired with a wrap-around strap inspired by the traditional Japanese archery glove. Featuring an all-black aesthetic that evokes the stealth of a ninja. Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches 2 takes place from December 20, 2024 to February 16, 2025, at Seiko Seed, an exhibition space owned by the watchmaker. It’s open to the public from 11:00 am-8:00 pm daily (with the last admission at 7:45 pm). Admission is free. Seiko Seed Harajuku 1-14-30 Jingumae Shibuya-ku, Tokyo For more, visit seiko-design.com.
Fratello
Happy New Year, everyone! I hope you celebrated in style last night! As you may know, every year, we recap all the Seiko and Grand Seiko releases we covered here on Fratello. Last week, we published an overview of all the 2024 Seiko releases we wrote about. This time, we’ll focus on the Grand Seiko […] Visit A Condensed Guide To Grand Seiko Releases From 2024 to read the full article.
Deployant
As usual, we take a break today to celebrate the new year. It is the first day of 2024, and we made it through yet another year. Happy New Year! 2024 was a great year for us. Our best year, in fact. We grew readership. We grew on social media. We revived our YouTube channel.Read More
Worn & Wound
I have a confession: I previously dismissed Orion for the wrong reasons. As an avid collector of microbrands, somewhere along the way I subconsciously created an arbitrary value scale based solely on movements. Collecting primarily in the sub $500 range, most watches that have passed through my watchbox have been powered by Seiko NH movements- the long reigning king of budget friendly 3rd party workhouse movements. On the occasions that I crossed that $500 threshold, I’ve been conditioned to expect a Miyota 9000 series, slightly more expensive, and considered an upgrade largely thanks to an extra two beats per second and the resulting sweeping second hand. Truth be told, I could care less about beat rates, but owning something deemed more premium is hard to pass up. It’s this human desire for the seemingly better thing that led me to shy away from Miyota powered watches over $700. Afterall, having $700 to drop on a microbrand opens up the option to own a watch powered by a Sellita SW200, a Swiss movement synonymous with luxury. Of course, this is a deeply flawed way to collect watches and judge value. And, (spoiler alert) a guaranteed way to miss out on value-packed brands that don’t blow their entire budget on a movement. After spending time with Orion’s Miyota 9039 powered Sylph collection, which hovers just over $700 like much of their catalog, I’ve gained a new appreciation for brands that prioritize finishing and design over being the best bargain by spec sh...
Quill & Pad
GaryG's first rule when it comes to collecting is to avoid setting too many exclusionary rules. With watches, he believes that it's the passion that separates collectors from investors and accumulators. Which brings him to another rule: deriving the full enjoyment from the things you own.
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