Hodinkee
Introducing: Watch Out, 'Rainbow' Daytona – Patek Philippe Drops A Gem-Set Aquanaut
It's the first self-winding Patek Philippe ladies' chrono ever made – but at 39mm, we think it's equally suited for the boys.
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6,269 articles · 58 videos found · page 162 of 211
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003
Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...
Time+Tide
Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President
Celebrity watchspotting can be a bit trivial at times – a Royal Oak here, a Richard Mille there. These are snapshots of individuals who have made it and have the means and access to strap any watch to their wrist that they desire. Which is why it is that much more interesting to hear the … ContinuedThe post Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Five Vintage-Style Diver’s Watches To “Seas” The Day From Blancpain, Seiko, Longines, Oris, And Tudor – Reprise
Sabine Zwettler dives back through time to have a closer look at five vintage-style diver’s watches. With their robustness and air of discovery and adventure, diver’s watches leave a striking impression on the wrist – whether on dry land or in the water.
Revolution
Legends of Independent Watchmaking: Rexhep Rexhepi
Wei speaks one-on-one with Rexhep Rexhepi, a panelist from our Legends of Independent Watchmaking Horological Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2022, to learn about his journey of becoming one of the most celebrated watchmakers in the modern era. It has been 10 years since Rexhep founded AkriviA and in that time he has had to […]
Time+Tide
Three ways that heritage reissues can differ from real vintage watches
At this rate it seems like we’ll end up with more vintage reissues in the world than actual vintage watches, if that’s not already the case. We started out with homages and vintage-inspired watches, then moved towards the meticulous and accurate recreations, before the current era of watches that look old no matter what vibrant … ContinuedThe post Three ways that heritage reissues can differ from real vintage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Formula 1 X Mario Kart
With a near-unparalleled history in auto racing, TAG Heuer’s latest is a light-hearted take on its storied past. Inspired by the famous plumber now driving a go-kart, the Formula 1 X Mario Kart pair are both limited-edition chronographs, each opposing ends of the price spectrum. The base model is the Formula 1 X Mario Kart Chronograph with an “Easter egg” date display, while the top-of-the-line model is a variant of TAG Heuer’s tourbillon-chronograph with the COSC-certified Calibre Heuer 02T movement. Initial thoughts Pop culture adds levity to mechanical watchmaking and usually enhances the appeal, which is why the approach is a familiar one. Gerald Genta did it, and more recently RJ-Romain Jerome. TAG Heuer did it for the first time last year with the Connected × Super Mario that sold out swiftly, proving the appeal of the Italian plumber. But the Connected was a smartwatch, while the pair of new releases are both mechanical, so they have appeal for watch enthusiasts. The Formula 1 Chronograph is basic but affordable, and livened up by subtle-but-clever Mario elements, like a date display with symbols from the game instead of numerals. The Formula 1 chronograph The tourbillon, on the other hand, is essentially an amusingly whimsical iteration of TAG Heuer’s standard tourbillon-chronograph, while not costing that much more, making it a more compelling proposition than the somewhat plain regular-production model. Mario around the track Inspired by the Nintendo...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Smash and grab theft of MoonSwatch suitcase the latest symptom of watch crime epidemic
During the early hours of Monday morning, there was a brazen smash-and-grab raid at the Swatch store in Amsterdam. After forcing entry, a hooded man broke into a glass cabinet and made off with the window-display suitcase containing the entire BIOCERAMIC MoonSwatch collection. Police were called to the crime scene but, at the time of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Smash and grab theft of MoonSwatch suitcase the latest symptom of watch crime epidemic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
You Are There: Horology Forum 8 New York By Dubai Watch Week
GaryG represented Quill & Pad at the 2022 DWW Horology Forum in New York (and he took a few favorite watches with him). Here's his take on the weekend event with lots of photos.
Deployant
New Release: IWC’s Mark XX edition
The IWC Mark XX is a highly wearable military timepiece with simplicity and functionality at its core. It has 120 hours power reserve which is significantly more than the average 3 days movement today. You may recall that the designers took their inspiration from the 1930s Junkers Ju 52 cockpit instruments, which have served as the model for classic pilot’s watches. The displays are round, generously sized and clearly arranged. The Arabic figures, big and round, stand proudly in position, with just two exceptions: instead of a “12”, we see a white triangle with a single dot on either side for better legibility, and at “3 o’clock” a date window, as a concession to modernity. The 40mm watch is well sized without being bulky at 10.8mm, uses contrasting dial and displays come very close to the ideal of the classic pilot’s watch. The watch is priced at US$5250 on leather and US$6150 on bracelet.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Manime La F is a watch dedicated to the theme of friendship
The most popular watches at the moment are often surrounded by a contextual suffering. Military watches have quite a dark theme, and you could make the argument that dive watches are also the embodiment of surviving harsh conditions. In practice, most watch fans use their watches as extensions of their own tastes instead of life-or-death … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Manime La F is a watch dedicated to the theme of friendship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video
At Time+Tide we love a good ambassador and brand pairing. I even recently prompted the team to participate in a Fantasy Watch Ambassador Draft, matching up celebs who have never been watch ambassadors with various brands. Ambassadors irrefutably draw attention to the brands they represent and, when done properly, create a cultural imprint that ultimately … ContinuedThe post Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Rado DiaStar Celebrates Its 60th Anniversary
Eléonor speaks with Rado CEO, Adrian Bosshard and internationally-renowned, multi award-winning product designer, Alfredo Häberli at the launch of the 60th Anniversary editions of the Rado DiaStar. The original DiaStar was futuristic in its design and groundbreaking in its use of advanced materials, and the 60th Anniversary editions pay homage to that spirit by incorporating […]
Revolution
BVLGARI Octo Finissimo, The New Icon Part I: The Beginning of a Journey
In a new four part series, we look back at one of the most seminal watch designs to have emerged in the last decade, the BVLGARI Octo Finissimo, and its rapid ascendancy to the lofty heights of haute horlogerie. In part one, Wei speaks with two of the key individuals at BVLGARI who were instrumental […]
Time+Tide
For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge
First released in 1962, the Rado DiaStar Original is one kooky watch design. Recognisable at a glance thanks to its striking, oval case, it exudes a retro-futuristic vibe – the sort of watch you can imagine George Jetson wearing in his flying car. But this quirky veneer disguises it’s horological significance. The DiaStar is, in … ContinuedThe post For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition
The concept of the open heart dial is nothing new, but it’s not necessarily a popular one. For the last few decades, watch snobs have dismissed open heart dials because of how often they appear on lower-end mechanical watches, sometimes as imitations of tourbillons or placed seemingly at random. Although the luxury market tends to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Book Review: MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years
MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. By Suzanne Wong and William Massena. La Martinière/Abrams; CHF198 for M.A.D. Gallery edition; US$170 for standard edition. To celebrate its 15 years – from 2005 to 2020 – of making extraordinary watches, MB&F; commissioned a 312-page book, MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. In its short foreword, MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser states he did not want a biography since they are “only written at the end of a journey”. Instead, he puts forward the rhetorical question: developing 18 calibres for over 160 products over the period “deserves to be documented, right?” He adds “hundreds of artisans, engineers and watchmakers” came along for the ride and “this is the story I love to tell”. He describes the tome as a catalogue raisonné, adding that it is something “never been done for a watch brand; a world first in the watchmaking industry!” Defined by the New York Public Library, a catalogue raisonné in the visual arts serves as an important tool not just to establish an artist’s oeuvre, and thus record history, but also to aid in authentication by cataloguing all the known works of an artist. The New York Public Library also adds “Essay(s) on the artist” and “Critical assessments and remarks” as desirable content in such a publication. All the watches and all the friends The main part of the book is such a catalogue of 254 pages, divided into three sections: “Horological Machines”, “Legacy Machines”, ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide
The Longines HydroConquest features a boldly contemporary design and a sturdy, water-resistant construction that have made it one of the most popular dive watches in its sport-luxury price segment. Since its debut in 2007, the Longines HydroConquest has expanded into a versatile collection with an array of sizes, colorways, and materials to appeal to a wide audience of dive watch enthusiasts. Here are seven things to know if you're looking at adding a Longines HydroConquest watch to your collection. The Longines HydroConquest has its roots in Longines’ very first named collection from 1954. Longines, which derives its name from “les longines,” aka “the long meadows” that surround the Swiss village of Saint-Imier where it was founded, has been making timepieces since 1832. It wasn’t until 1954, however, that Longines began engaging in the modern marketing practice of introducing product families with distinctive names. “Conquest” was the first such name to be registered, on April 3, 1954, with the Swiss Register of Intellectual Property. The original Longines Conquest (reproduced above) was designed as one of the first generation of “modern” wristwatches, i.e., equipped with a highly accurate automatic movement and a water-resistant case that also protected the movement from magnetism and shocks. Despite its utilitarian elements, the original Conquest was undeniably a dress watch, with a very modest 35mm case; a clean, minimalist dial; applied diamond...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US
When the Zenith Chronmaster Revival went pink for the Pink Dial Project Auction, many bidders were excited at the prospect of winning such a vibrant piece unique. Sadly, this meant many missed out – until now. In a manner that allows more people to have a pink-dialled Zenith watch, while protecting the integrity of the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Story Of The Cartier Cheich – An Ultra-Rare Piece Heading To Auction
The ultimate trophy watch comes to auction at Sotheby's in Paris.
Time+Tide
George Clooney and Hyun Bin showcase the Omega Speedmaster ’57
Omega have been at the forefront of vintage-inspired sports watches for quite some time, and the latest revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ‘57 shows what a great place watchmaking is in right now. We seem to have made it through the onslaught of strait-laced vintage reissues, and now their evolutions featuring daring and creative dials … ContinuedThe post George Clooney and Hyun Bin showcase the Omega Speedmaster ’57 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Insight: The Last Pilot’s Watch – Tutima’s Military Chronograph
Pilot’s watches, and specifically military-inspired pilot’s watches, are a pillar of the modern, luxury watch industry. Dozens of brands, notably IWC, Breitling, Bell & Ross, Bremont, and Yema, have made military aviation a core theme of their image. So it’s somewhat ironic that today’s elite military pilots don’t wear mechanical watches in the cockpit. A recent survey of pilots at MCAS Miramar, the airbase once home to the prestigious “Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor” programme – better known as TOPGUN – revealed that not a single pilot was wearing a mechanical watch. Instead, military pilots increasingly wear smartwatches designed specifically for aviators like the Garmin D2 that can monitor oxygen levels and act as a backup navigation system. Modern pilot’s watches made by luxury brands are more like “fan fiction”; a designer’s dream of what might have been. But this wasn’t always the case. Mechanical watches were once state-of-the-art technology and vital instruments for navigators and pilots before being rendered obsolete by quartz technology. This is the story of how the urgency of the Cold War gave the humble balance wheel one last chance to patrol the skies. The jet-shaped counterweight on the IWC Top Gun SFTI calls to mind the airplane-tipped chronograph minutes hand of Cold War-era pilot’s watches like the Tutima 798 A brief history of the pilot’s watch Pilot’s watches have been around for almost as long as there have been p...
Quill & Pad
Geneva Watch Days 2022 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy
The third edition of the sunny, COVID-19-friendly Geneva Watch Days came to a close on September 2, so of course we must talk about it. And this time we brought our friends Robert-Jan Broer of Fratello and Łukasz Doskocz of CH24! Please join this Quill & Pad round table discussion of what we did and didn’t like at Geneva Watch Days 2022.
Time+Tide
The Benetict Cumberwatches: Why so many watches have overcomplicated names
Benedict Cumberbatch, decorated actor, deserves recognition for his work in The Imitation Game, The Power of Dog and Patrick Melrose. Today, however, we’ll poke a bit of fun at something the Internet has been having a go at for years – his name. Re-christened as Blubberbutt Cunningsnatch, Bendyboot Coffeecup and Bendydick Thundersnatch, he’s had a fair share of grief … ContinuedThe post The Benetict Cumberwatches: Why so many watches have overcomplicated names appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sincere (Re)Opens SHH Concept Store in Singapore
With edgy decor that set it apart from a typical luxury-watch store of the period, the inaugural Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) in Singapore’s Hilton hotel was one of the world’s first “concept” stores dedicated to high-end mechanical watches when it opened in 2005. After a run of well over a decade, the original SHH store closed in 2019, but the format has now made a comeback at Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino complex. Located along a stretch of the mall dominated by watch and jewellery brands, the new SHH once again focuses on niche and independent brands. Its stable of brands total 19 and include Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie., Laurent Ferrier, Parmigiani, and Ferdinand Berthoud. Reboot and revive Being amongst the first retailers in the world to offer brands that were then just startups but would go on to do great things – Sincere took on Franck Muller in 1992, Lange in 1995, Panerai in 1998, and F.P. Journe in 2000 – SHH was a logical progression of Sincere’s retail strategy in the early 2000s. “[SHH in Hilton] was meant to be a touch point for very fine mechanical watches and high end brands,” says long-serving Sincere chief executive Ong Ban, “At the same time, it was also a launchpad for what we thought were the future stars of the industry.” Projects like the first SHH helped established Sincere as one of the three biggest watch retailers in Southeast Asia, alongside Cortina Watch and The Hour Glass. But after several changes in ownership, S...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Norqain impresses with the new Adventure Sport 37mm Limited Edition
Norqain has become one of those brands that is synonymous with adventure. From tackling the great outdoors to becoming at one with mother nature. Yet, as other brands interpret adventure differently for men and ladies (often creating a dumbed down version of a more adequate watch), Norqain breaks the mold. They continue to highlight what … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Norqain impresses with the new Adventure Sport 37mm Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Baume & Mercier Watches: A Complete History and Guide to the Collectio
Baume & Mercier is a watch brand that prides itself in its pursuit of classical watchmaking mixed with timelessly elegant style and in offering its timepieces at a price point that defines "affordable luxury." If you're new to Baume & Mercier watches, there's likely a lot about this nearly two-century-old watchmaker that you don't know. Here we explore the history and watchmaking milestones of Baume & Mercier, from its origins in 1830 to today. 1830: The Brothers Baume Baume & Mercier is the sixth-oldest watchmaker* currently in operation, having begun its existence in 1830, founded by Louis-Victor Baume and his brother Pierre-Joseph Celestine Baume. In the beginning, the company, at the time known as “Frères Baume" (“Baume Brothers”), sold its pocket watches out of a shop in the Swiss Jura village of Les Bois. By the 1850s, Frères Baume had built its business, and its reputation for quality watchmaking, enough to set up a branch in London, a major market and an important center for international expansion - first throughout the United Kingdom, then into India, Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, and other nations that at the time were part of the British Empire. The watches the Baume brothers produced toward the end of the 19th Century included high complications like chronographs, calendars, tourbillons, and minute repeaters. They were also renowned for their precision and accuracy, winning 10 Grand Prix awards and seven gold medals for time measurement ...
Time+Tide
Borna’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days
Geneva Watch Days, a trade show that began as a pandemic special, has now expanded way beyond its initial eight founding brands, with more than 20 exhibiting partners for its 2022 edition. I was happy to see so many independent brands showcased at the event, which will become painfully obvious in my top five picks … ContinuedThe post Borna’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Quick Takes: the new (W&W;22)Montblanc 1858 GMT Automatic Date
Montblanc offers an intuitive way of keeping track of time in different time zones without hands. One of the most practical complications, the Montblanc 1858 GMT watch function limit of time in two different places at the same time. So, wherever you are on the planet and whatever you are doing, your watch can indicateRead More
Quill & Pad
Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures Du Monde: An Exquisite Double-Signed Trip Around The World
Despite having made more than 100 pièces uniques among a grand total of approximately 1,500 timepieces spanning 42 years of a truly inventive career, independent watchmaker and co-founder of the A.H.C.I. Svend Andersen has become particularly known for the worldtimer, a complicated timepiece displaying the time in 24 time zones. Here Elizabeth Doerr shares a brief history of worldtimers and blue gold while looking at the Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures du Monde.