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Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741 Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741 Hands-on Jul 4, 2022

Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741 Hands-on Review

What we love: Great colour combinations are available, our pick is the green dial A watch you can buy now, no waitlists Legibility and dial design and layout and good-looking movement through the caseback What we don’t love: The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Some may find the push-button clasp dig into the underside of the wristSome may find the lugs to protrude on the leather and aid in wearing large Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5/ 10 Design: 8.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 RAYMOND WEIL is one of the few mainstream watch brands that are still independent and family-owned. So it is no surprise that they have re-invigorated their flagship Freelancer line and taken it up a notch for their 2022 release of the new Freelancer Chronograph 7741 line. I had the privilege of going hands-on with the new releases; the black and white  ‘Panda’ on both steel bracelet and black leather strap, the two-tone with Rose Gold on the brown strap, and a striking green dial and bezel with silver Tri-Compax dials on the green leather strap. Young in Age, but Mature in Nature RAYMOND WEIL is a young brand in terms of watchmaking. Compared to other brands that have their roots put down in the 1800s and in some cases, late 1700s, this makes RAYMOND WEIL, born in 1976, a horological child in age (so to speak!) RAYMOND WEIL is known for style and being heavily aligned to music, and looking at RAYMOND WEIL watches, you’d be forgiv...

Up Close: Hot-Hammered Haute Horlogerie – Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX” SJX Watches
Rolex Submariner Todd Rexford Jul 1, 2022

Up Close: Hot-Hammered Haute Horlogerie – Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”

One of the more intriguing watches debuted by an independent watchmaker in the year to date is the Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”, a collaboration between Hungarian watchmaker Aaron Becsei and American knife maker Todd Rexford. Conceived at the behest of a Thai collector living in Japan, the Project XX is based  on Bexei’s time-only model but its case, dial, and movement plates in zirconium, a resilient metal with properties similar to titanium. Mr Becsei is already known for his high-quality movements and regular readers will remember the Vox Vinum grande sonnerie wristwatch he completed in 2019. His partner in his project is a leading artisanal knife maker whose one-off knives regularly sell for more than a Rolex Submariner, Todd Rexford. An artisan who works with metal in ways similar to a watchmaker, Mr Rexford uses the many of same tools found in a watchmaker’s workshop, like lathes, jig borers, and drills; he even makes his own screws. And he clearly works to the same tolerances since he produced the movement bridges for the Project XX. A defining element of the Project XX are its “hot hammered” zirconium components, namely the dial and movement bridges. It’s the signature material of Mr Rexford’s that he often uses for the handles of his knives. The zirconium dial and movement parts were produced and then hot hammered by Mr Rexford, resulting in a textured finish that sharply contrasts with the lustrous movement decoration applied by Mr Bexei. I...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Yankee Stadium, Billion Oyster Project, and the best of Oris Time+Tide
Oris Jul 1, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Yankee Stadium, Billion Oyster Project, and the best of Oris

This week is a special edition of the Friday Wind Down, dedicated to all things Oris. Ricardo and I had two action-packed days with Oris earlier this week, spending one day at Yankee Stadium and another getting hands-on with the work of the Billion Oyster Project on Governors Island. As a New Yorker, I have … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Yankee Stadium, Billion Oyster Project, and the best of Oris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Every Watch Tells a Story: “How long will it take you to namedrop Hugh Jackman?” Time+Tide
Jun 29, 2022

Every Watch Tells a Story: “How long will it take you to namedrop Hugh Jackman?”

It was the end of last year at the Time+Tide Club party. Drinks were poured and Santa hats were circulated. Watches were admired and discussed. There were further drinks. Impressed by the horological range on display, Andrew suddenly decided we should shoot some video of different people discussing their watches and unpacking the personal stories … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: “How long will it take you to namedrop Hugh Jackman?” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Delma Montego is a classic, sporty chronograph Time+Tide
Jun 28, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Delma Montego is a classic, sporty chronograph

Producing watches from their headquarters in Lengnau, Switzerland, Delma offers a wide array of options, from ’50s-inspired dress watches to bold DLC-coated divers rated for depths of 4000 metres. After looking at the Cayman Bronze earlier this year, the watch we’re introducing today is the new Delma Montego chronograph, the brand’s take on a classic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Delma Montego is a classic, sporty chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Grand Seiko SBGC249 and SBGC251 are complicated additions to the Evolution 9 collection Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGC249 Jun 28, 2022

The Grand Seiko SBGC249 and SBGC251 are complicated additions to the Evolution 9 collection

Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 collection greatly expanded at this year’s Watches and Wonders, with no less than five new additions. Among those we find today’s offering - the Grand Seiko SBGC249 and SBGC251 Spring Drive Chronograph GMTs. The idea isn’t exactly novel for Grand Seiko; in fact, one of the models celebrates the 15th anniversary of … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGC249 and SBGC251 are complicated additions to the Evolution 9 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Tissot PRX Gold Quartz brings the ’70s alive on your wrist Time+Tide
Tissot PRX Gold Quartz brings Jun 26, 2022

The Tissot PRX Gold Quartz brings the ’70s alive on your wrist

Tissot knew exactly what they were doing when they kickstarted the budget-friendly integrated bracelet trend with the PRX. Looking at one instantly throws your mind back to the 1970s, regardless of whether you were actually alive then or not. Between the flared jeans and ABBA, one thing the 1970s had was an appreciation for gaudy … ContinuedThe post The Tissot PRX Gold Quartz brings the ’70s alive on your wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Every Watch Tells A Story: “My Vacheron had disappeared from my wrist”  Time+Tide
Jun 24, 2022

Every Watch Tells A Story: “My Vacheron had disappeared from my wrist” 

EDITOR’S NOTE: These videos for our Every Watch Tells A Story series were filmed off-the-cuff at the Time+Tide Club Christmas party. Here, Editor Luke tells the story about how he lost his watch and learned that “vintage” is sometime just a euphemism for old and decrepit. At the end of 2018, I quit my day … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: “My Vacheron had disappeared from my wrist”  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Pierre Rainero, Guardian of Cartier’s Heritage SJX Watches
Cartier s Heritage Having been Jun 20, 2022

Interview: Pierre Rainero, Guardian of Cartier’s Heritage

Having been at Cartier for almost four decades, Pierre Rainero is part of the institutional memory of a jeweller that was founded in 1847. He is the brand’s “Image, Style and Heritage” director, a post he has held since 2003 and one that also puts him in charge of the Cartier Collection, the brand’s own trove of historical timepieces, objects, and jewels that numbers over 1,500 items – the physical manifestation of the jeweller’s storied history. Mr Rainero’s title, along with his encyclopaedic knowledge of the house, means he determines whether something – anything really, ranging from watches and jewellery to marketing and strategy – is truly Cartier. We spoke with Mr Rainero during Watches & Wonders 2022 to unravel the process behind the development of new watches at Cartier. And he also tells us about the time Igor Stravinsky had a Cartier clock thrown at him. The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Congratulations – it’s an impressive collection [launched at Watches & Wonders]. Pierre Rainero (PR): Thank you, thank you. SJX: The Crash is incredible of course. PR: Indeed, it’s just a step further [than we usually go]… It’s always difficult to rework the Crash because it’s such a statement in itself, so here was a certain finesse needed to take it further. In this case we capitalised on the original shape, but created something something else entirely because of the decoration, colours, and how it is perceived. The Crash Tigr...

Every Watch Tells A Story: How Borna got lucky with his Universal Genève Polerouter Time+Tide
Universal Genève Jun 16, 2022

Every Watch Tells A Story: How Borna got lucky with his Universal Genève Polerouter

It was the end of last year at the Time+Tide Club party. Drinks were poured and Santa hats were circulated. Watches were admired and discussed. There were further drinks. Impressed by the horological range on display, Andrew suddenly decided we should shoot some video of different people discussing their watches and unpacking the personal stories … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: How Borna got lucky with his Universal Genève Polerouter appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The blacked out H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Chronograph UNDEFEATED Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Chronograph Jun 15, 2022

HANDS-ON: The blacked out H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Chronograph UNDEFEATED

It’s a Tuesday night in New York City and I’m a few blocks away from Times Square. To anyone on the street, I’m just heading down a set of stairs to the subway. Instead, I’m knocking on an inconspicuous door at the bottom of the first flight of steps. It’s to a small bar called … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The blacked out H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Chronograph UNDEFEATED appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Sam Hines Joins Online Auctioneer Loupe This SJX Watches
Cartier Crash “London” Jun 14, 2022

Business News: Sam Hines Joins Online Auctioneer Loupe This

A watch auction veteran who has had stints at all the major auction houses – Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Phillips – Sam Hines has just been named managing director of Loupe This, the online-only watch auction platform that was established last year. Mr Hines will be based in Hong Kong, where he will oversee the soon-to-open Loupe This operation in the city. Unlike traditional auctioneers that hold seasonal sales with the online sales in-between, Loupe This has auctions opening and closing every weekday. In the 12 months it’s been in operation, Loupe This has sold over US$15 million of watches, including major lots like a 1967 Cartier Crash “London” that sold for over US$1.5 million. Now also a shareholder in Loupe This, Mr Hines (pictured above left) joins cofounders Eric Ku (centre) and Justin Gruenberg (right), who are both prominent vintage watch dealers in the United States. Having turned a teenage hobby into a profession, Mr Ku got his start as a specialist in vintage Rolex, though he has since diversified into other genres of collectible watches as well as watch restoration and repair. Mr Gruenberg, on the other hand, had watches in his blood, having been born into the business; his father, Donald, was a major vintage watch dealer since the 1980s. The record-setting 1967 Crash that sold on Loupe This in June 2022 The pair decided to form Loupe This to cater to the increasing and unending demand for watches. “The appetite for watches is all year long,...

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Jun 7, 2022

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

At Watches & Wonders 2022 Vacheron Constantin introduced watches in a diverse range, but sandwiched in between the artisanal decoration and complications was a new addition to the Historiques collection of vintage remakes. An unexpected launch given that Vacheron Constantin (VC) already has a luxury-sports watch in its lineup, and largely focuses on dress watches and complications in any case, the Historiques 222 was nevertheless a highlight amongst the new launches, especially given the current appetite for such watches. But the 222 is more than just something that caters to today’s fads. It is a sympathetic remake that manages to incorporate substantial, hidden improvements while preserving the look of the original – but not the feel thanks to a significantly improved bracelet. Initial thoughts As the Overseas has long matured into an established collection amongst VC’s offerings, the return of its predecessor is surprising. My initial reaction was that it is confusing to offer two different luxury sports watch models simultaneously, but it makes sense given that the 222 is a Historiques model, a vintage remake in other words. Not only does VC have a track record of reviving vintage models in style, the 222 can cater to an audience that seeks something more elegant and compact than the Overseas. It’s likely that the return of the 222 was a deliberate decision on VC’s part to create a luxury-sports watch that is different. Of the three luxury sports watches ...

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 2, 2022

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver

Historically a prominent participant – and winner – at observatory chronometer trials, Longines once had a stable of extra-precise, high-frequency movements, though the calibres have been long discontinued as were the chronometer competitions. Several decades later the watchmaker from Saint Imier pays homage to that history by reviving the Ultra-Chron, which is based on its namesake 1968 original but with a newly-developed high-beat movement contained within vintage-inspired, cushion-shaped case matched with a similarly retro steel bracelet. Initial thoughts The vintage Ultra-Chron is a good basis for a remake as it avoids being yet another vintage-inspired diver with a round case. While the design isn’t new, the cushion case distinguishes it from the competition, offering enthusiasts something less common. Personally, I like the functional, 1970s style of the Ultra-Chron; the red accents lend the watch the feel of an instrument. But going by how Longines has expanded the palette of the Legend Diver, additional, modern colours for the Ultra-Chron are a possibility (and a certainty if it sells well). But the new Ultra-Chron is notable not just for its style. Though the Longines catalogue has an impressive tally of historical remakes, all of its Heritage models to date contain standard movements identical to those found in the brand’s other models. The Ultra-Chron, on the other hand, stands out for the high-beat calibre that was developed specially for it (though t...

HANDS-ON: The evolution continues with the new Rado Captain Cook Chronograph Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook Chronograph Jun 1, 2022

HANDS-ON: The evolution continues with the new Rado Captain Cook Chronograph

The Rado Captain Cook. As one of the brand’s bestselling lines of watches, the Captain Cook does a great job of showcasing what Rado can do. Interesting use of materials? Check. Amazing, vibrant dials? Check. All this accomplished while staying at a reasonable price point. And for years now, the line has continued to slowly … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The evolution continues with the new Rado Captain Cook Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

These are Patrick Dempsey’s three favourite TAG Heuer watches Time+Tide
TAG Heuer watches May 31, 2022

These are Patrick Dempsey’s three favourite TAG Heuer watches

This past week Andrew and Marcus found themselves in Monaco for the Formula One Grand Prix with TAG Heuer. During the festivities, Andrew had the chance to meet up with Grey’s Anatomy star, and TAG Heuer Ambassador, Patrick Dempsey. But before they could get into the subject at hand, Mr McUtchen had to settle a cheeky … ContinuedThe post These are Patrick Dempsey’s three favourite TAG Heuer watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Honey, I shrunk the PAM! Hands-on with the Panerai Quaranta collection Time+Tide
Panerai Quaranta collection From May 27, 2022

Honey, I shrunk the PAM! Hands-on with the Panerai Quaranta collection

From the 47mm Destros and Bronzos to the monstrous 60mm Egiziano, Panerai has never shied away from large diameters, nor should they, for that matter. The first watches Panerai made were modified pocket watches – the 1936 ref. 2533 measured in at 47mm. Today, however, is about the more wearable spectrum of Panerai’s catalogue. The … ContinuedThe post Honey, I shrunk the PAM! Hands-on with the Panerai Quaranta collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Top 5 Reasons Why Watch Brands Need To Tread EXTREMELY Carefully with NFTs Quill & Pad
May 26, 2022

Top 5 Reasons Why Watch Brands Need To Tread EXTREMELY Carefully with NFTs

In the wake of the current crypto crash and NFT markets taking a nosedive, and sharing sentiments here at Quill & Pad, Joshua Munchow goes over five very good reasons why NFTs could be a looming crisis for the watch industry. He feels that the watch industry needs to choose its next steps very carefully lest it become both latest victim AND inadvertently a criminal grifter in the NFT space.

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Régulateur Massena Lab SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces May 26, 2022

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Régulateur Massena Lab

Having made collaborations a habit, Louis Erard’s latest joint venture is with Massena Lab, an American brand that is equally adept at collaborations. Together the two have put together the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Massena Lab. In contrast to its recent abstract or Bauhaus collaborations, the Louis Erard’s new regulator is resolutely classical. It takes inspiration from the aesthetics of 18th century timepieces, which were all brass, steel, and frosted gilt, explaining the colours and granular dial finish. Initial thoughts Demonstrating Louis Erard’s versatility when it comes to collaborations, the Massena Lab regulator is basically a new dial style for the brand’s signature model yet it manages to look different enough that it’ll please someone who already owns a Louis Erard regulator. Although the grained dial is produced with industrial methods, it is a good approximation of a traditionally frosted dial and looks good on the wrist. Between the two I favour the gold-plated dial for its contrast, though the large case size means the rhodium version is appealing for its restrained palette. But because the new pair are essentially the standard regulator model at heart, they also has the dimensions of the standard model, which is bigger than would be ideal, especially in terms of thickness. At the same time, the two watches are priced in an accessible fashion typical for Louis Erard – just under US$3,900 in this case – making them well-priced propositions...

RECOMMENDED READING: Watches of Switzerland boss reveals Rolex scarcity is spreading to Cartier and Tudor Time+Tide
Cartier May 23, 2022

RECOMMENDED READING: Watches of Switzerland boss reveals Rolex scarcity is spreading to Cartier and Tudor

It’s no secret that buying a Rolex at retail is getting harder than ever – with many referring to their sports watches as “unobtanium”. But this booming demand and chronic shortage of supply is now having a knock-on effect and driving greater interest in other luxury brands according to the boss of Watches of Switzerland. A … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Watches of Switzerland boss reveals Rolex scarcity is spreading to Cartier and Tudor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in Titanium and Sedna Gold SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 5057G May 23, 2022

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in Titanium and Sedna Gold

Singapore retailer Cortina Watch is marking its 50th year in 2022 with progressive launches of anniversary editions, which started with the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057G that made its debut at the beginning of the year. Now it’s the turn of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary, the first of the brand’s dive watches to feature a two-tone case in titanium and 18k Sedna gold. Initial thoughts The Bathyscaphe is probably the best looking amongst Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms range of dive watches. It has the right degree of retro style, while also being relatively compact and wearable. And it avoids being too different, too vintage, or too big, as many of other Fifty Fathoms divers are; the Bathyscaphe is just right in many ways. The new edition is a modest variation on the original, but a good one. In contrast to the almost-monochromatic standard model, this version looks a little fancier without being over the top thanks to its gold elements. At the same time, the gold parts are balanced; the bezel, for instance, is set off by the gold crown. But the look is restrained with the brushed bezel insert and dial, so it doesn’t stray too far from the original. What the watch is missing, however, is a bracelet as it is delivered on a fabric strap as standard. Blancpain does have a titanium bracelet available as an additional purchase, however, it is not two tone though it should pair well with this watch. Retro diver Though inspired by th...