Results for Frequency / Beat Rate (vph, Hz)

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SJX Watches

Louis Erard stands out Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights - Value Propositions and The Not-Quite

Maybe unsurprising given the state of the industry – watchmakers enjoyed record sales in 2022 – value buys were few at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) this year. Amongst the independent watchmakers, just two stood out for being value buys, the Kudoke 3 and Urwerk UR-102 “Reloaded” – both of which I covered in my highlights amongst the indies. Not quite an independent watchmaker but niche nonetheless, Louis Erard stands out for the Excellence Marqueterie. Probably the best value amongst its many limited editions, the Excellence Marqueterie brings the art of wood marquetry to a previously unheard of price segment. Although it costs only about US$4,000, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial decorated with tiny pieces of exotic wood that have been sawn and applied by hand to form an M.C. Escher-like pattern. The Excellence Marqueterie. Image – Louis Erard Like most other niche brands, Louis Erard exhibited outside the halls of W&W;, where all of the establishment brands were located. Amongst the big names, only Tudor offered substantial value with its new models, although that is not news in itself since value is a fundamental characteristic of the brand. (Though it is arguable that Rolex offers strong value in all its models regardless of price, but certainly not as much as Tudor.) Two watches stood out amongst Tudor’s 2023 line-up. One is the Black Bay 54, a watch clearly conceived by aficionados with an eye for detail. Just 37 mm in diameter, it resembles a vinta...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights - Independent Watchmaking

As is often the case when the wider industry is doing well, independent watchmaking is on fire. This was illustrated by the numerous and diverse exhibitors, many of them brand-new entrants, showing their wares alongside Watches & Wonders in Geneva. But as is often the case when independent watchmaking is on fire, quantity far exceeded quality, and the good and great were rare. Not wanting to go up against brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe for eyeballs (and also because most independent marques now enjoy long, long waitlists), many watchmakers didn’t launch anything new. Some talented watchmakers are merely making slow but steady progress, like Yosuke Sekiguchi, the Japanese watchmaker based in Switzerland who presented the final version of his Primevère along with new dial variants for the same. One of the best new launches is not really a new model, but it’s good enough it deserves a top spot on the list. The F.P. Journe FFC is the regular production version of the unique FFC Blue made for charity auction Only Watch in 2021. Indicating the time with a five-fingered hand, the time display is simple but driven by a clever and complex movement, illustrating the brilliance of its creator. Granted it costs CHF820,000 before taxes, which is probably too much even considering the complication. But according to Mr Journe, the movement is complex enough that it can only be assembled and adjusted by a watchmaker who is otherwise working on the Astronomic grand complication....

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Time+Tide

Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 – Apr 4, 2023

The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 - the first fully mechanical chronograph movement from GS

Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 marks the first-ever fully mechanical chronograph from GS Tentagraph stands for TEN beats per second, Three days, Automatic chronoGRAPH New 9SC5 calibre built upon Grand Seiko’s 9SA5 calibre At last year’s Watches & Wonders, the Grand Seiko “Kodo” SLGT003 Constant Force Tourbillon was irrefutably among the top, if not the top, … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 – the first fully mechanical chronograph movement from GS appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Hublot Has Made Apr 3, 2023

Hands On with the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire, the Most Audacious Sapphire Watch Hublot Has Made

And now, readers, we’ve come to that portion of our Watches & Wonders coverage that I know at least two of you have been anxiously anticipating, Yes, it’s now an annual tradition I guess, where I will wax rhapsodically about a mind bending Hublot novelty fit for a modern version of an 18th century French king. I can’t really think of a better way to describe the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire than to contextualize it with something commonly understood to be shorthand for over-the-top indulgence, but that’s what this watch is all about, in the best possible way. It’s a huge swing, which is exactly what I like to see from brands at Watches & Wonders. If I’m going to fly across an ocean and deal with travel delays at every step, I’d like to see things that I can only see in a presentation in the back of one of those enormous booths.  Last year I wrote about the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire and characterized it as one of the best watches of last year’s Watches & Wonders because it succeeded at being compelling from a watchmaking perspective while also being completely outlandish in a way that Hublot is uniquely great at. It marked a point in my own appreciation for the brand where they rose above the level of a mere curiosity and reached a point where, in my opinion, they are deserving of the respect given to any other serious innovator in contemporary watchmaking.  This year they’re back with a sequel of sorts to last ye...

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Worn & Wound

Oris ProPilot Altimeter Mar 30, 2023

A New 3D-Printed Carbon Fiber Composite Case and an Upgraded Mechanical Altimeter Takes The Oris ProPilot Altimeter to Greater Heights

I think it’s safe to say that we’re past the initial shock and awe moments from the first couple of days of Watches & Wonders. As we all digest the barrage of releases, the next day or so is my favorite because now we really get to sift through each and every novelty to discover the watches that may have been overshadowed by the preliminary excitement. To look past the first glass case surrounded by all the fancy lights and signage to find the brand’s deep cuts from this year’s showing. Oris came out of the Watches & Wonders gates in a playful way by featuring their ProPilot x Kermit Edition, but a more serious, utilitarian ProPilot that has legitimate expedition-watch chops has also garnered some of our attention. Compared to its ProPilot predecessor, it’s significantly lighter and capable of pushing to greater heights – it’s the new ProPilot Altimeter. The Oris ProPilot Altimeter confidently stands as the only wristwatch at Watches & Wonders, and the world, to utilize an integrated mechanical altimeter. By way of some ingenious engineering and a series of numerals and markers located within the segmented dial cut-outs, as well as a metric scale (either feet or meters depending on the reference you opt for) on the rehaut, an accurate reading of your current altitude can be read. The crown at 4 o’clock signed with an “ALT SET” wordmark manages the entire altimeter system. Unscrewing the crown activates the altimeter by allowing air to enter the case. On...

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Time+Tide

Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces Mar 29, 2023

The Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces and dresses-up the atypical complication

The Ulysee Nardin Freak ONE has surpassed its shock-factor roots and embraced beauty, The time is adjusted via the 5N gold bezel, negating the need for a traditional crown. Its train of wheels and flying tourbillon are all integrated into the minutes hand. Mechanical watchmaking has evolved drastically over the last few decades, which is … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces and dresses-up the atypical complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Sinn EZM1 When started Mar 27, 2023

A Lange & Sohne Odysseus Gets Trick Automatic Chronograph

A Lange & Sohne came to Watches & Wonders with just a single release this year, and that’s all they needed to make a big impression. The watch is a new member of the Odysseus family, and it welcomes the brand’s first automatic chronograph. Like all of Lange chronograph movements, the new L156.1 within this watch is quite special, both mechanically and aesthetically. It should come as no surprise that the Odysseus platform accepts a chronograph compilation with ease, given the existing set of pushers that are integrated into the case, which are normally used to adjust the day and date. They still are, however their main function has been shifted to operating the chronograph. The Odysseus Chronograph retains the outsized day and date apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively, as well as a running seconds hand nested at 6 o’clock. There are no other sub dials present. The timing seconds and minute hands are stacked together and centrally mounted, just like the equally fabulous Sinn EZM1. When started, the red anodized aluminum timing seconds hand kicks into action, and the second timing hand records each minute that passes, up to 60 minutes. One unique detail here worth noting is that, when reset, that seconds hand will retrace every lap it’s taken around the dial. So if you’ve timed something for 15 minutes before resetting, the seconds hand will make 15 laps in quick succession back to its starting place. These operations are routed through the integrated pusher...

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Two Broke Watch Snobs

Alpina Mar 27, 2023

Alpiner Extreme Automatic Blue From Alpina - A Welcomed Change For The Band…I mean Brand

The Alpina Alpiner Extreme now has an integrated bracelet. The overall impact? Something Genta familiar that still embodies Alpina's ethos!

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Worn & Wound

Rolex Milgauss Mar 27, 2023

(Hands-On)The Genta IWC Ingenieur Era Returns With New Automatic 40

The Ingenieur pivots back to its Gerald Genta design era this year with the introduction of a new collection that references the Ingenieur SL, reference 1832 from 1976. This is a move we (and likely, many of you) have anticipated since asking IWC CEO Chris Grainger about it back in 2021 on the Worn & Wound podcast (listen to that episode right here). The new Ingenieur collection welcomes three steel references that feature unique textured dials in silver, black, and aqua, and a full titanium reference with a gray dial. Each feature the new integrated bracelet design made famous by Genta in the ‘70s that we last saw in 2013 with the Ingenieur reference 3239. The new Inge takes a slightly softer approach and places an emphasis on ergonomics, and during our time with the watch in London last month, found it to be exactly that. This is the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 and yes, it still has a soft-iron inner case.  The Ingenieur has a rather interesting history that reaches back to 1955 with the reference 666, where it embraced a classic round shape and simple dial befitting of the era. It was launched around the same time as the Rolex Milgauss, and filled a similar role, making use of a soft-iron inner case to protect the movement from magnetic influence (up to 80,000 Amperes per meter). The name has roots in Old French and Medieval Latin, according to IWC, evolving from “ingeniator” or “one who makes or uses an engine”. The word Inegnieur evokes a similar vibe, and b...

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Time+Tide

Alpina brings four new models Mar 27, 2023

Alpina brings four new models to their Alpiner Extreme range

Alpina adds four new models for 2023 to their newly relaunched Alpiner Extreme line. Three of the new models feature a first for the Alpiner Extreme: an integrated bracelet. The unique Regulator Automatic sees two new versions, limited to 888 examples apiece. It’s time again for Watches & Wonders, where watch brands trot out their … ContinuedThe post Alpina brings four new models to their Alpiner Extreme range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

Mar 27, 2023

Watch Market Trends and Predictions: 2023 and Beyond

Throughout 2022, there has been an economic shift globally. Thankfully, we have moved forward from the pandemic, however, we are now entering a period of higher interest rates in response to inflation. With this, consumer patterns will change and the watch industry will be affected. So Raman Kalra thought it might be interesting to look at historical watch trends and give his predictions on what shifts we will see on our wrists over the next 5-10 years.

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Time+Tide

Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks Mar 27, 2023

The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case

The new Tudor Black Bay 54 takes its inspiration from the 1954 reference 7922. Its 37mm case offers a great gender netural option for accurate vintage vibes. The steel bracelet is fitted with Tudor’s T-fit clasp. For thousands of watch collectors, the introduction of the Black Bay 58 was a phenomenal release that turned even … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture Mar 27, 2023

The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture is a high-end flex from an accessible brand

The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture celebrates the brand’s 35th birthday. The calibre FC-980 returns as the brand’s flagship in-house movement. It’s a limited edition of 150 pieces. Frederique Constant is often referred to as an affordable luxury brand, which I believe does them somewhat of a disservice. While they do have a large range … ContinuedThe post The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture is a high-end flex from an accessible brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Baume & Mercier Mar 27, 2023

Baume & Mercier Riviera 33mm celebrate half a century of the Riviera model

For the model’s 50th anniversary, Baume & Mercier is launching three striking new dial variants for the Riviera 33mm. The flagship Riviera 33mm features a satin gold dial, automatic movement, and diamond bezel accents. The quartz Riviera 33mm offers two new lacquered dial choices, in vibrant blue or purple. The Baume & Mercier Riviera is … ContinuedThe post Baume & Mercier Riviera 33mm celebrate half a century of the Riviera model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Speake-Marin Mar 27, 2023

The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans exudes casual elegance

Speake-Marin’s history is one drenched in luxury with bespoke offerings and a blend of tradition and futurism that very few brands can pull off as well. Last year, they changed gears by introducing the Ripples - their first integrated bracelet watch in steel. This is one of the most competitive markets for luxury wristwatches, and … ContinuedThe post The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans exudes casual elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Baume & Mercier Mar 27, 2023

Celebrating 50 years: Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm and Riviera Azur 300M

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Baume & Mercier’s integrated model, the Riviera. For the first time, there’s a new unisex 39mm version of the Riviera. Also new is a dive version called the Riviera Azur 300m, a reinvention of their 1981 diver. It seems like everyone in the watch industry has jumped on … ContinuedThe post Celebrating 50 years: Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm and Riviera Azur 300M appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

IWC Ingenieur gets Mar 27, 2023

The IWC Ingenieur gets a modern makeover that better honors its past with new Automatic 40

Four new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 watches – three in steel one in titanium Better reflects the design codes of the original 1976 Gerald Genta Ingenieur SL ref. 1832 design Uses latest IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre with a power reserve of 120 hours We have long remained in throws of the integrated steel sports craze. But, while … ContinuedThe post The IWC Ingenieur gets a modern makeover that better honors its past with new Automatic 40 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph SLGC001

Grand Seiko made a big splash at last year’s Watches & Wonders with the launch of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, the brand’s first complicated mechanical wristwatch. For 2023, the brand is back with another first-time complication that will likely be one of the most talked-about watches of the show, the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. The first purely mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph ever, the Tentagraph is a high-spec sports chronograph that fills a hole in the Grand Seiko portfolio. “Tentagraph” is a portmanteau of the four key features of the watch: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and of course, the chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph is an important watch for Grand Seiko that enables the brand to stand toe to toe with Rolex, Omega, Zenith, Breitling, and other stalwarts in the popular category of mechanical sports chronograph. Not only is the category a hitherto untapped commercial opportunity for Grand Seiko, it is an opportunity for the brand to demonstrate its technical know-how and ambition. In this context, I would have expected the brand to release an integrated chronograph movement, perhaps based on the 6S movement family. But Grand Seiko has chosen to build a modular chronograph calibre based on the 9SA5, the flagship Grand Seiko automatic movement introduced in 2020, signalling the brand’s commitment to the calibre and its proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. My colleague Richard Lee notes that the 9S...

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SJX Watches

IWC Introduces Mar 27, 2023

IWC Introduces the Ingenieur Automatic 40

After years in the doldrums – and several unsuccessful reboots – the Ingenieur has been given a much-needed refresh inside and out. The IWC Ingenieur 40 emulates many of the best characteristics of the original Ingenieur SL from 1976 that was famously designed by Gérald Genta, but adds a proprietary automatic movement into the mix. Initial Thoughts While there was nothing wrong with the outgoing Ingenieur ref. IW3570, it was uninspired and lacked the charisma found in the original 1976 designs. Unsurprisingly, it failed to resonate with buyers who increasingly favoured sports watches with integrated bracelets. The ref. IW328903 features an aqua dial and a bracelet with polished center links The resulting surge in demand for integrated-bracelet sports watches was a trend that IWC missed out on since the last Ingenieur with an integrated bracelet was the ref. IW3239 discontinued in 2017. With everyone else launching an integrated-bracelet sports watch, it seemed inevitable that IWC would eventually refresh the Ingenieur and bring back the original design. In this context, the launch of the Ingenieur 40 is welcome, even if it does feel slightly anti-climactic.  The Ingenieur ref. IW328902 in steel with a silver-plated dial The new Ingenieur is essentially a blend of the 1976 original and the more recent integrated-bracelet models. The design appears thoughtful. For example, the bezel with five notches from the original returns, but with a twist (no pun intended). Whi...

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SJX Watches

A. Lange & Sohne Mar 27, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Chronograph

Unveiled in 2019, the Odysseus was A. Lange & Söhne’s first foray into sports watches. A commercial success since launch, the Odysseus has since become one of the brand’s most desirable watches. Though it has been iterated in different metals (including titanium), it has remained the same model, until now. Long anticipated and alluded to by chief executive Wilhelm Schmid, the Odysseus Chronograph has finally arrived. While powered by a brand-new automatic movement that incorporates a novel and fanciful reset feature, the watch retains the same Odysseus styling. Initial thoughts The Odysseus Chronograph is not unexpected. From the start the Odysseus case was designed to feature integrated pushers resembling crown guards, making it ideal for a chronograph. And the Odysseus Chronograph looks exactly as expected. Though the design is not surprising, the Odysseus Chronograph is cleverly designed. It manages to retain the aesthetics of its predecessor despite being substantially more complicated. The key visual difference is the addition of just two central chronograph hands. The consistent design was accomplished by smartly endowing the large integrated pushers with dual functionality of activating the chronograph or calendar adjustment. Predictably, the new movement inside is automatic – atypical for Lange but sticking to industry convention for a sports watch. However, being automatic means that most of the chronograph mechanism is hidden under the bridges and rotor...

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Worn & Wound

Mar 24, 2023

Enthusiast Spotlight: On the Job, Street, and Trail with the G-SHOCK GM2100C Utility Metal and Outerwear Expert Wallie Luu

When we first laid eyes on G-SHOCK’s new additions to the GM-2100 line called the Utility Metal collection, we knew we’d need to call in an expert in utilitarian style. In order to help us tell the story of these three rugged watches-each with a touch of casual sophistication-we reached out to our pal Wallie Luu. Not only is Wallie a G-SHOCK aficionado, he’s a gear enthusiast with one of the most expansive collections of rugged outerwear designed for the toughest of conditions. We caught up with him at work, on the street, and on the trail where he demonstrated for us the versatility of this new collection. He also told us some great stories and imparted his words of wisdom, all while sporting the now iconic octagonal form and metal-clad design of these GM2100 standouts. We’re featuring the new G-SHOCK Utility Metal collection in the story, can you give us your first impressions? Did you find it easy to pair them with your style? All of the G-SHOCKs I’ve owned have always been pretty big, burly watches that can take the abuse I put them through, whether I’m at the shop, exploring the city, or on a trip. I really like how sleek and low profile these G-SHOCK Utilities wear, without sacrificing how robust they are. I feel like these work great as a solid, everyday watch thanks to their metal cases. I’m also really impressed with the quality of the strap. I wasn’t sure what to expect with a fabric strap on a G-SHOCK, but for me it’s an intriguing combo. I...

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Worn & Wound

Bremont Broadsword Gets Armed Forces Mar 23, 2023

Bremont Broadsword Gets Armed Forces LE Treatment

Henley, Oxfordshire. Pimm’s and Regattas. The splendid River and Rowing Museum.  Particularly vindictive traffic wardens. And ‘The Wing’, Bremont’s HQ. There are plenty of reasons to try to wangle an invitation to look around. Nick’s dog Pedro, for a start – he’s lovely.  The coffee’s good. The building itself is remarkable. Where else do you find a regularly changing selection of classic cars in a reception area? Last time I was there it was a restored Land Rover half-ton Lightweight. And, if you’re into your military watches, there’s an entire wall of them with an example of every unit, squadron or crew model the firm has made. Some you’ll have heard of, others are, quite deliberately, not exactly household names. It’s not surprising. Bremont tend to build their watches (‘build’ seems like a better word than ‘make’ in this context) to take a knock or two. I’ve had one of their MBIIs since 2011 and, despite almost G-Shock levels of abuse, it’s never missed a beat. So even though you’re more likely to see a G or an F-91W on exercise (losing a $15 Casio in the mud is easier to stomach than a nearly $4k Bremont), there’s little doubt they’d hack the pace.  Now there’s a new watch for the Armed Forces Collection – the Broadsword Recon. Bremont’s Broadsword range has been around since 2019, the year the firm signed the Armed Forces Covenant to support those who serve or have served. Practically, in the case of the Broadsword, ...

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Worn & Wound

Czapek Embraces Titanium Mar 21, 2023

Czapek Embraces Titanium in New Dark Sector Antarctique

One of our favorite high-end independent brands of late has been Czapek, and their Antarctique collection, which has a seemingly endless range, from their remarkable openworked Rattrapante Chronograph, to the serene time-only Frozen Star. This week, the collection welcomes a new addition, in a new material, it’s the Titanium Dark Sector. This is a slightly different expression of the Antarctique design language that we’ve seen in the likes of the Passage De Drake, bringing a slate like appearance to the monotone frame with enough small details to capture your attention. It’s still a modern integrated design and houses the brand’s own showstopper movement, so if you’re a fan of the Antarctique but prefer toned down symmetry, this watch is likely to check all the boxes for you. The Titanium Dark Sector features an integrated case and bracelet design that’s rendered fully in titanium, which should make the 40.5mm diameter and 10.5mm thickness all the more svelte on the wrist. The bracelet integrates to the case via articulating central link that fits into the center of the case, allowing for an even flow around the wrist. Unlike the 38.5mm case Antarctique, this titanium bracelet will not feature chamfers on the final production model. Additionally, there will not be customization options on this watch other than a trio of strap options. The flat gray dial of the Dark Sector is sparse, with all the action happening toward the dial’s perimeter. Applied sections o...

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SJX Watches

F.P. Journe boutique It will be Mar 21, 2023

Business News: Tudor New Launches Available on First Day of W&W; in Geneva

In a first for an establishment watch brand, Tudor is making all of its new launches available on the first day of Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the trade fair that is the watch industry’s largest. The trade fair opens in the morning of Monday, March 27 and starting at noon the same day, the entire Tudor line-up of new models will be available at its pop-up store in downtown Geneva. Located off the city’s main shopping street of Rue du Rhône, the Tudor pop-up store is situated right beside the F.P. Journe boutique. It will be the first store in Switzerland to offer the Black Bay 58 Bronze (pictured above), a model available only in Tudor boutiques. While historical practice for the watch industry was to introduce new models in spring and have them available in stores in summer or later, availability has been slowly inching forward as watch brands realise the advantage of having watches for sale as soon as they are visible online. While W&W; remains a trade fair for industry insiders, namely retailers and journalists, to see new products, Tudor’s pop-up store essentially makes its “novelties” available to the public at the same time. It is not unimaginable that one day new models will be available on the spot at W&W; or its future equivalent. Pop-up details Operated by Swiss retailer Bucherer, the pop-up store opens on the first day of Watches & Wonders, Monday, March 27, 2023 at from 12 pm. It will be open from Monday to Saturday for a month. Place de Longemalle 15 120...

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Worn & Wound

Girard-Perregaux Goes Full Aston Martin Mar 15, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Goes Full Aston Martin Racing Green in New Ceramic Laureato

It’s a good time to be an Aston Martin fan. Review embargoes finally lifted on their next generation hypercar, the Valkyrie (spoiler alert, it’s bonkers); their Formula 1 team is showing a shocking amount of pace with the legendary Spainiard, Fernando Alonso (don’t call him old) at the wheel; and finally, as of today, that iconic Aston Martin Racing Green is now available in the new fully ceramic Laureato from Girard-Perregaux. The Laureato is low key one of the great integrated sport watches at the high end, and this is the first time it’s been offered in AMR green, as well as being fully rendered in ceramic.  The newest limited edition additions to the Laureato range will be offered in both the 38mm and 42mm sizing, mirroring what is currently offered elsewhere in the collection. More options is never a bad thing in our book, though in my brief time with the watch I found the 38mm to wear exceptionally well given the shape of the case. Unlike other integrated watches, the Laureato manages the lug transition in a way that more closely resembles the footprint of a more traditional lug placement, leading to a more ‘true to size’ experience with the watch. With that in mind, the 42mm doesn’t wear overly large, and given the weight of the watches will not present much in the way of heft, either. Both sizes are relatively scant, with the 42mm measuring 11mm in thickness, and the 38mm measuring a hair over 10mm in thickness. With a case and bracelet constructed o...

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Worn & Wound

H. Moser Mar 13, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Partners with The Lavish Attic on Ultra Limited AdC33

Earlier this year, we saw the debut of a new ‘in-house’ caliber from Atelier de Chronométrie called the M284 within a beautiful watch called the AdC22 which we introduced to you right here. Today we’re getting a glimpse at the next chapter for this movement in the form of the AdC33, a limited edition collaboration with The Lavish Attic, a Hong Kong based collective that curates exclusive high craft products and experiences, serving as area distributors for Urwerk and H. Moser. Here, the outfit is collaborating with Atelier de Chronométrie on an exclusive watch that offers buyers a few interesting choices, including white “Grand Feu” enamel dials with ancient Chinese characters, and an alloy called Gray Gold.  Precious metal cases have expanded beyond the likes of just yellow and rose gold, with stuff like tantalum, black platinum, and proprietary mixes like Omega’s Moonshine offering a wide selection of pricey yet tantalizing choices when it comes to cases. Let’s add gray gold to that list, a gold alloy with high palladium content that apparently lands somewhere between white gold and platinum in appearance. In the case of the AdC33 seen here, it takes on the stepped 37mm case in beautiful fashion, and it’s offered alongside more traditional yellow and rose options. Not to be outdone by the case, the dial brings plenty of intrigue as well thanks to its finish as well as the markings at the 3, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. The white grand feu dial is ins...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Nivada Grenchen Racing Chronograph Mar 13, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Nivada Grenchen Racing Chronograph for Fratello

Nivada Grenchen has enjoyed an inspiring renaissance under Guillaume Laidet’s leadership ever since their revival, and there’s been no shortage of amazing releases, both limited and non-limited in nature. There was, of course, the whimsical, yet somewhat dystopian Chaosmasters series we brought you with the help of seconde/seconde/, though today’s release leans more towards the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Nivada Grenchen Racing Chronograph for Fratello appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Panerai celebrate Mar 11, 2023

Panerai celebrate the opening of their first stand-alone boutique in Australia

Panerai recently celebrated the opening of their first Australian stand-alone boutique with an event at the new store in Sydney’s King Street peppered with all the Italian flair and charisma their clients have come to expect from the brand. While the availability of Panerai in Australia is not new and may not seem like big … ContinuedThe post Panerai celebrate the opening of their first stand-alone boutique in Australia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Maurice Lacroix Updates their Pontos Chronograph Mar 10, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Updates their Pontos Chronograph with a Pair of New References

Just ahead of Watches & Wonders, Maurice Lacroix has unveiled a pair of new chronographs in their Pontos line. While most enthusiasts are probably looking at Maurice Lacroix’s Aikon line of integrated bracelet sports watches, collections like the Pontos have their own charm and help paint a fuller picture of the brand, which is always straddling a line between sporty and refined, and doing it at a price point that welcomes a wide range of collectors.  The new Pontos chronographs seen here feature dials in black and slate gray, the former with white accents, and the latter with hints of rose gold. The Pontos has a familIr three register layout, but the sub registers at 12:00 and 6:00 (minute and hour totalizers, respectively) are larger than the running seconds subdial at 9:00. It’s a subtle shift from the norm but gives the dial a little bit of additional visual interest and funk. It’s like a “Big Eye,” but with two eyes. I’m sure the community can come up with an appropriate nickname.  The most significant changes in these new versions of the Pontos concern the hour markers and handset. Time is now read via Arabic numerals at the dial’s perimeter, with a minute track located in the rehaut. Maurice Lacroix has also refined the hands with a modest bit of skeletonization at their base.  Both the black and gray have a sunburst effect applied to their surfaces, and in these Maurice Lacroix supplied photos, it looks particularly striking in gray. Black dials, o...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Nomos watch will imagine Mar 9, 2023

The Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold is Very Blue and Unexpectedly Gold, Kind Of

I don’t have any way to scientifically prove this, but I’m willing to bet that most people, if asked to close their eyes and picture a Nomos watch, will imagine a Tangente of some kind in their head. Nomos has been around long enough to create a whole bunch of beautiful watches, and some that are not the Tangente have become icons (or close to it) in their own right. Every model family has its ardent supporters, from the Zurich world timers to the funky and colorful Tetras, you can find watch enthusiasts who are obsessive about each and every Nomos watch. But the Tangente remains the halo piece, the signature. It’s the one that you can most easily see all the things that make Nomos special within it. The Bauhaus influenced design, the playful use of color and shape, and, above all, a very specific type of casual elegance.  Perhaps understandably, Nomos has iterated almost endlessly on the Tangente over the years. I’m sure someone is keeping track of the many variants, case sizes, dial colors, and so forth, but that task is well beyond my own capabilities at this point. Suffice it to say, they’ve made a lot of Tangentes. And the new one, which they’ve dubbed the Neomatik Blue Gold, is a very nice looking one indeed, if not immediately easy to understand based on name alone. That’s OK. I might not have an encyclopedic knowledge of every Tangente ever released, but I’m a professional watch person, and you better believe I’m up to speed on the new one.  The...

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