Hodinkee
Inside Grand Seiko: The Evolution Of The Spring Drive Movement
In the second installment of our three-part series in partnership with Grand Seiko, we go in-depth on the history and development of Spring Drive.
Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement
6,485 articles · 72 videos found · page 166 of 219
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Panerai: The Making Of A Design Icon, Part 3
In part three of this series, we look at the advanced manufacturing and testing processes that go hand in hand with old-school watchmaking at Panerai.
Hodinkee
Orient Star M Collection - Heaven and Earth
Orient Star’s new M34 F7 Semi Skeleton and M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase models combine cosmic inspiration with in-house automatic movements.
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Exotic New Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold with a Tiger Iron Dial
Traditionally, Rolex sports (a.k.a. professional) watches are very often paired with black dials. As for the GMT-Master II, of all references available in the collection – and there are quite a lot of them, in all possible materials except platinum – only the white gold editions have had the privilege of colours: Pepsi with a […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm Now in Polished Steel
One of the first purpose-built modern dive watches produced in the mid-1950s, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms was a key player in the development of “skin diving” and the watch selected by several elite diving corps. Taken out of production in the 1980s, Swatch Group’s Marc A. Hayek resuscitated the Fifty Fathoms in 2003. In 2007, the […]
Worn & Wound
A New, Record Breaking, Bulgari Tourbillon
You have to give it up for Piaget. When they introduced the Altiplano Concept Tourbillon last year, they made a hell of a play for the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. At 2.0mm, that watch was (as most ultra-thin watches are) inconceivably thin. I have to imagine that, when Piaget introduced that watch last year, they felt pretty good about holding onto the record for at least a while but, as these things go, eventually, Bulgari has to have its say in the matter. A year later, we have Bulgari’s seemingly inevitable response: The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. At just 1.85mm thick, Bulgari’s latest Ultra-Thin masterpiece represents their 10th world record for thinness in watchmaking and reunites Bulgari with a record it has held on and off since 2014 - which, by way of comparison, was a record they had previously held with watches measuring 5mm and 3.95mm thick. Hard to imagine it, but each of those now seems downright chunky by comparison. There’s a good reason why you often see watches like this held up next to credit cards: Devoid of context, it’s almost impossible for your brain to compute just how little three-dimensional space these watches take up. Bulgari has achieved this stupendously mind-blowing level of thinness by applying the design and construction techniques introduced with the 1.80mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra and the 1.70mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. Most notably, Bulgari has integrated the case and movement of the Octo Finissimo Ultra ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex 1995 Intrepid Reissue: The Affordable Sailing Watch You Didn’t Know You Needed
Timex, as usual, is still on a roll, bringing back some of its best hits from the past few decades. The brand’s recent reissues-like the Marlin and Q Timex-have become cult favorites, but now, Timex is going deep into the archives for something a bit more unexpected: the 1995 Intrepid Reissue. This isn’t just any retro throwback; it’s a nod to a time when sports watches were as much about functionality as they were about style. Designed for sailing and water sports enthusiasts, the Intrepid is back with a 46mm case, a highly legible white dial, and a history that’s a little more interesting than your average watch revival.
Quill & Pad
Ken Gargett’s Run-In with the KGB at the Kremlin
Midnight in Moscow, in the 80s during the Cold War,and Ken Gargett thought it would be a clever idea to head off down a dark alley with two strange Russians. What could possibly go wrong?
Fratello
Fratello Talks: The Watches And Wonders 2025 Debrief
Welcome to this special installment of Fratello Talks. This is the Watches and Wonders 2025 debrief episode, where Nacho, RJ, Daan, and Lex share their highlights from this year’s show. We also discuss just about every brand and novelty released at the fair. Honorable mentions go to some of the novelties released at the other […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Watches And Wonders 2025 Debrief to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Fair San Francisco is Back, Baby! May 2-4, 2025
That’s right-Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the Bay Area, and we couldn’t be more excited. From Friday, May 2nd to Sunday, May 4th, 2025, the Gateway Pavilion at the Fort Mason Center is the place to be for watch lovers, collectors, and anyone who just appreciates great design and craftsmanship. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Friday, May 2 – Sunday, May 4, 2024 Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture San Francisco, CA Free and open to the public. If you’ve never been to Windup before, here’s the scoop: it’s a free, three-day event created by Worn & Wound to bring together the watch community. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just getting into the hobby, this is your chance to see amazing timepieces up close, chat with the people who make them, and connect with fellow enthusiasts-all in a fun, laid-back atmosphere. Not to mention, Windup SF is easily held at one of our most iconic venues: Pier 2 in San Francisco Bay with unforgettable views of both Alcatraz and The Golden Gate Bridge. This year, we’re stoked to have an incredible lineup of lead sponsors, including anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Frederique Constant, and Oris. These brands are bringing their A-game with some seriously cool watches, and you’ll get the chance to check them out firsthand. Expect a killer mix of independent and well-known brands, hands-on experiences, and the opportunity to buy watches directly from the people who craft them. Plus, there...
Deployant
Quick impressions of Time to Watches & Masters of Time
While our coverage of WWG ends, Stanley popped over the road to the villa where Time to Watches and to IceBergues where Masters of Time showcased the independents.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Konstantin Chaykin Joker
When GaryG encountered Konstantin Chaykin's Joker, whose “face” is literally just that with two googly eyes showing the hours and minutes with their respective pupils and a lolling red tongue displaying the phase of the moon, he was transfixed. And moments later he placed an order.
Quill & Pad
Omega Speedmaster 50th Anniversary Snoopy: The Beagle has Landed!
The Omega Speedmaster 50th Anniversary Snoopy has a wonderful story to tell. Its face and case back are pure fun with a mindful message of what was almost lost. All wrapped in the latest edition of what is without a doubt an iconic watch.
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II with a Green Ceramic Dial
Rolex has launched its first-ever ceramic dial with the GMT-Master II ref. 126729 VTNR. Left-handed like the “Sprite” of 2022, the new GMT-Master II is available only in 18k white gold – unsurprising since Rolex typically rolls out new innovations or features in precious metals. Dial aside, the rest is classic GMT-Master II. The movement is the latest-generation cal. 3285, while the bezel insert is in the same material as the dial, Cerachrom, Rolex speak for ceramic. Initial thoughts Unlike the game-changing Land Dweller, the new GMT-Master II is typical Rolex in being an incremental improvement over past models. Ceramic dials have been present in watchmaking for several years now, though this is a first for Rolex. Over time, ceramic dials will probably filter downwards into more affordable models as is the norm at the brand. Besides being a perfect match for the green half of the bezel, the ceramic dial is presumably more robustness than conventional lacquered dial, particularly in terms of scratch resistance and colour fastness (over decades or even centuries). Even though it’s not majorly novel, the ref. 126729 VTNR is a good looking watch and, in the usual Rolex fashion, is priced reasonably for what it is (though not cheaply). But it will also be a major hit, which makes availability scarce for some time to come. Two time zones One of the iconic travel watches, the GMT-Master II does a simple job very well. It can indicate up to three time zones with its combi...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual (Live Pictures, Thoughts, And Comparisons)
Ben's thoughts on where this grand complication sits relative to its cross-border rival and reigning champ in the category, the Patek Philippe 5374G.
Fratello
Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds
For Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to go big with its Reverso collection once more. Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced this watch meant for polo players nearly a century ago. Today, however, watch enthusiasts and collectors consider the Reverso a dress watch more than anything else. With the latest Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in full pink gold […] Visit Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.
Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With Three Traditionnelle Openface Models
Vacheron Constantin’s anniversary celebrations do not go unnoticed. The 270-year-old horology house kicked things off in January with the stainless steel version of the Historiques 222. Yesterday, it unveiled a high-end follow-up to that release with the stunning new Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch ever created. Add the Traditionnelle Tourbillon […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With Three Traditionnelle Openface Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer
For many years, the only two Nomos models that offered traveler-oriented functions were the Zurich Weltzeit (a.k.a Zurich Worldtimer) and the Tangomat GMT, which had airport codes to denote the 24 time zones. This year at Watches and Wonders, the Glashütte-based brand presents a new movement to power its Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer series, which […]
Worn & Wound
Alpina Re-Issues a Classic with the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding
The original Alpina Tropic-Proof, released in 1965 under mysterious origins-even the Swis brand itself can’t pinpoint the exact date-was emblematic of the newfound adventurous spirit ushered in by the now-accessible boom of transatlantic air travel. With a case designed by François Borgel and a handwinding movement, the Tropic-Proof was meant to be a watch-of-all-trades that could travel the globe with ease, rather than a specialized tool. Six decades later, Alpina is reissuing that design with key nods to the model’s history and future. Appropriately dubbed the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding, the watch is enveloped in an understated stainless steel case that measures 34mm in diameter. Both dial options-shiny-finished white or black-contrast well with the applied silver indexes and polished silver hands, and the dial design excels in its simplicity, without conceding elegance. The hour and minute hands, as well as the dotted minute track, are coated in beige Luminova to give the Tropic-Proof ease of use in darkness. A beige Alcantara strap with a pin buckle adds a touch of sophistication, but not overzealousness, keeping the watch within the boundaries of subtle class. A threaded solid caseback with an engraved Heritage pattern hides the handwinding AL-480 caliber movement, which touts a 42-hour power reserve. Capping off the simple but elegant design is an anti-reflective glass box sapphire crystal, which curves downwards to maintain viewing ease at all an...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th Anniversary
Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th birthday in style with a clever limited edition of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding featuring a unique dial pattern that depicts the brand’s emblematic Maltese Cross. In total, 740 pieces will be made, with production split evenly between the platinum and 18k rose gold editions. Initial thoughts The 38 mm Traditionnelle has long been a staple (and fan favourite) within the Vacheron Constantin (VC) catalogue. Over the years we’ve seen numerous limited editions for specific boutiques and the brand has even made one-off pieces for its best customers. So it makes sense that VC would return to this watch as part of its milestone 270th birthday. On paper, the anniversary edition is classic Traditionnelle, featuring the model’s goldilocks proportions of 38 mm by 7.77 mm. One of my favourite characteristics of this watch, and the Traditionnelle collection more broadly, is VC’s unique take on the Dauphine-style hands, which are divided along their length into polished and frosted sections. This touch catches the light in a truly special way, and brings a great deal of life to the dial. The Traditionnelle is powered by the well-known cal. 4400, but it’s dressed up with special ‘côte unique’ finishing for this anniversary edition. It’s an interesting choice, being more muted in its appearance than typical Genevois finishing. The only other difference between the anniversary Traditionnelle and the regular production models is...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces a Compact 1815 in Blue
Among the new releases from A. Lange & Söhne this year, the blue-dialed 1815 34 mm might be the most surprising. Lange has a well-earned reputation for making chunky, complicated watches, but watches like this show the brand has good instincts when it comes to the opposite end of the spectrum and is equally capable of making simple, graceful watches. Available in 18k white or rose gold, the 1815 34 mm is a not a limited edition, and it is an alternative entry-level model in addition to the Saxonia Thin. Despite its simplicity, the 1815 is equipped with an all-new movement, the L152.1. Initial thoughts I’d argue few brands are as committed to understatement as Lange, and this watch is a testament to that. While there’s been an undeniable trend toward smaller, thinner watches in recent years, 34 mm is aggressively small, which makes it a statement of sorts; it’s the polar opposite of the big ostentatious watches that are all-too common. Candidly, a 34 mm watch is not for everyone, but that’s kind of the point. The key difference between this new 1815 and those we’ve come to know is its diminutive 34 mm case, which makes it the smallest 1815 to-date, matching the diameter of the original Saxonia. In fact, at just 5.9 mm thick, it’s the smallest watch Lange has ever made. But despite its small size, the new 1815 retains the brand’s signature faceted lugs and brushed case band. The movement fills the case neatly, and even though the case back is slim, it still f...
Time+Tide
Frederique Constant continues its value-driven upmarket evolution with the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
Is this the best affordable perpetual calendar around? For under US$10k, we're struggling to find an alternative.The post Frederique Constant continues its value-driven upmarket evolution with the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon
Laurent Ferrier introduced the Classic Auto with a warm sandstone-colored dial just half a year ago. Today, we see the introduction of a new version. This time, the result is much cooler looking, completely changing the nature of this fine piece of Haute Horlogerie. I got a chance to go hands-on with the new Laurent […] Visit Hands-On With The New Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Review: Luxury & Precision With The Cartier Santos Dual Time
The Santos de Cartier Dual Time was a hit at Watches & Wonders 2024. So with one week to go until we’re back in Geneva for this year’s fair, why not review the perfect travel companion? What We Love The two-tone grey dial works incredibly well The dark grey alligator leather strap gives the watch a whole new look The versatility of the watch for different occasions What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet (Still) There could have been more contrast in the dial to aid legibility in low light Could lumed numerals make this more of a complete swatch? Overall Score: 9/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 This will be a review with a difference. Normally when one of us at Watch Advice reviews a watch, we try not to review another one that is very similar to it, rather we would opt for another team member to do it and give you their experience with it. After all, we all have different tastes in watches, dress styles and most importantly, wrist size. But, I decided to break the rules a little with this one. I reviewed the Santos de Cartier Large Brown Dial in June last year, but while I was reviewing that, I kept thinking it would be great to have reviewed the new Dual Time as well. So fast-forward almost a year later and we got our hands on the Dual Time thanks to our friends at Cartier and without giving too much away too early, I think it’s better… First Impressions The Santos dual time was one of the major rele...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Watches From Micro-Brand Watch Show District Time 2025
I recently had the chance to drop in to the District Time watch show in Washington, D.C., a microbrand-centric watch expo that has grown steadily over the years, with this year’s edition featuring more than 50 brands. Loren Sciurba and his team from The Time Bum blog, along with co-sponsor McDowell Time, did a fantastic job bringing the horological heat to a traditionally underserved Mid-Atlantic market, and based on the wall-to-wall crowds over two days, the event was a resounding smash. I had a blast on this run-and-gun road trip, getting to spend the day with our intrepid media maestro, Danny Milton, connecting with old friends and making new ones in this celebration of watch culture at its absolute finest. Even with a larger space this year, lines at the booths were stacked, with queues for brands such as Christopher Ward extending halfway through the length of the hall. There was plenty to see and try on, with Danny having way too much fun posing with the Heisman Trophy at the Axia Time booth. And if you didn’t get the chance to check it out yourself, we’ve got you covered. Some of these watches are brand new, and some new to us with our first in-hand impressions, but it was fantastic to experience a lot of these microbrands up close, given the difficulty in seeing many of them first-hand before clicking the “Buy It Now” button. So here, in alphabetical order, are ten standouts that really won our hearts and minds, and will likely be lightening our wallet...
Fratello
Introducing: The Maen × Nico Leonard Jump Hour
Late last year, I had the opportunity to go hands-on with the Maen collection for the first time. I’d heard of the brand but had only seen photographs. I was highly impressed with the case finishing, dials, and bracelets. Best of all, the watches felt far more expensive than their price tags suggested. With today’s […] Visit Introducing: The Maen × Nico Leonard Jump Hour to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Christopher Ward gets arty with a double-British collab, the Mr Jones Celestial limited edition moonphase
Two of Britain's most beloved independent watchmakers team up for a whimsical take on a moonphase, melding CW's technical expertise with Mr Jones' art.The post Christopher Ward gets arty with a double-British collab, the Mr Jones Celestial limited edition moonphase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Enough, Watch Brands! Stop Releasing Sports Watches With Integrated Bracelets
Well, I said “please” in the subtitle, so I hope the title didn’t come off too strong. But I do mean every word I wrote. Something snapped after having yet another edgy, sporty watch creation with some very particular and recognizable features show up at Fratello HQ. I couldn’t help but shout, “Stop releasing sports […] Visit Enough, Watch Brands! Stop Releasing Sports Watches With Integrated Bracelets to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Private Wine Collection of Jörg Bucherer, Who Sold Family Watch Retail Business To Rolex, Will Be Auctioned at Christie’s
Sale of rare wines, including first growth Bordeaux, as well as Burgundy and Spanish wines, expected to raise more than £1 million for the Jörg G. Bucherer Foundation
Teddy Baldassarre
Glashütte Original Reveals New "Frosted" Dials for Senator Excellence
German luxury watchmaker Glashütte Original has been on a streak of masterful moon-phase creations in recent years, releasing some absolutely exquisite dial colors in its PanoMaticLunar model (including the green-dial model I review here) and unveiling the first PanoLunarInverse model toward the end of 2024. Today, the brand continues shooting for the moon, in a visual and horological sense, with the launch of two new versions of its Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase family boasting two eye-catching - and historically inspired - new dial colors. Both of the watches’ dials - one in frosted silver, the other in frosted copper, achieved in a galvanic process - are created in homage to the rich mineral deposits once mined in the Ore Mountains, near the state of Saxony and the watchmaking town of Glashütte. Their finely grained surfaces, meant to evoke the thin layers of ice on the mountain rock, play host to the familiar and elegant details of the Senator Excellence family - including hand-applied, blued Roman numeral markers in gold and blued, polished poire hands complemented by a central seconds hand with the brand’s “double G” symbol as counterweight. The watches’ signature functions occupy carefully chosen spots on the dial without disrupting its overall clean, harmonious look. The large “Panorama” date display settles snugly in a double window at 4 o’clock, while the moon-phase elegantly balances it in the opposite corner above, its ...