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Patek Philippe Pays Tribute to Philippe Stern with the Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Pays Tribute Nov 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Pays Tribute to Philippe Stern with the Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P

To celebrate Philippe Stern’s 85th birthday, Patek Philippe has released the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P-001. The 30-piece limited edition is a minute repeater with a novel alarm function that chimes the programmed time, powered by a new calibre that will never be repeated. The watch is also a tribute in a literal sense: the fired enamel dial bears a monochromatic portrait of Philippe Stern, now the honorary president of Patek Philippe and the man who laid the foundations of the Geneva watchmaker’s present-day success. Initial thoughts This watch was long anticipated since it was first teased for Only Watch 2023, where it was announced as a unique piece made for the charity auction followed by a limited edition release. Now we have the specifics of the watch and it is impressive in technique, even if the dial is surprising at first sight. Evocative of the iconic black-and-white portrait of Francis Ford-Coppola’s 1972 film The Godfather, portrait of Mr Stern initially feels out of place in such a classical watch. But then it is perhaps not as apparent on a wrist when reading the time, and more importantly, considering Mr Stern’s achievements he deserves an overwhelmingly prominent place on a watch. It is a certainty that the buyers of the 30 watches will be clients personally acquainted with Mr Stern – word has it that all were allocated by Geneva prior to launch – and I imagine all of them would be happy to concede part of the dial to him. With four new pa...

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Recent Limited Editions: MAEN and BOLDR Creations with Worn & Wound Worn & Wound
Boldr Creations Nov 9, 2023

Recent Limited Editions: MAEN and BOLDR Creations with Worn & Wound

It’s been a busy year here at Worn & Wound and the Windup Watch Shop, and one of the most enjoyable aspects of being in this space is the ability to get creative and collaborate with our partners on exciting new products. Limited Editions, or LEs, allow creative juices to run wild while conceptualizing something on a smaller scale for those who are in the know. They also provide avenues for new folks to join the hobby and for everyone to have the chance to own something extra special. Two of our recent LEs are the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan and the BOLDR x Worn & Wound 3xT GMT. Offered at similar price points, these are two very different but equally intriguing collections – let’s take a closer look. It’s been a busy year here at Worn & Wound and the Windup Watch Shop, and one of the most enjoyable aspects of being in this space is the ability to get creative and collaborate with our partners on exciting new products. Limited Editions, or LEs, allow creative juices to run wild while conceptualizing something on a smaller scale for those who are in the know. They also provide avenues for new folks to join the hobby and for everyone to have the chance to own something extra special. Two of our recent LEs are the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan and the BOLDR x Worn & Wound 3xT GMT. Offered at similar price points, these are two very different but equally intriguing collections – let’s take a closer look. The post Recent Limited Editions: MAEN and BOLDR Creations ...

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The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968 Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Nov 9, 2023

The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968

Now in their fourth collaboration together, Swiss brand Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB have once again brought their individual strengths to give us the Chronograph ‘68. This vintage-inspired watch is the best of both worlds: providing a great timepiece, while also being a stylish, vintage inspired accessory for anyone looking for an upgrade to their wrist rotation. The impetus for this watch’s design comes from the tumultuous year of 1968. As Mathey-Tissot recounts the various cultural shifts during this period in history, one really has the sense that there was a dramatic change happening as the world was preparing to ring in a new decade. Mathey-Tissot and Massena cite events like Arthur Ashe’s historic victory at the U.S. Open and the emergence of “mod” culture in London as important cultural touchstones from the year, and the Chronograph ‘68 exists as a kind of tribute to a very specific point in history by adhering to particular aesthetic choices rooted in late ‘60s watch design. To commemorate this period, Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB looked at various reference points of watches that were sold during the 1960’s. The result is an amalgamation of design elements that work seamlessly together to make a timeless watch that could easily be made today or 60 years ago. From the black dial against the 41mm stainless steel case, to the reflective hour markers, to the three colorful registers in red, white, and blue, the balance of neutral design and pops of ...

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Fall is Here: Saying Bye to Bracelets and Hello to Straps Worn & Wound
Nov 7, 2023

Fall is Here: Saying Bye to Bracelets and Hello to Straps

It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covered with several leather-paired watches that fit the fall theme and are ready to slip under that cozy sweater you’ve been looking forward to wearing all year. It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covere...

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Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture Worn & Wound
Nov 3, 2023

Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture

To this day, one of my favorite reviews that I’ve written for the website is that of the Ophion 786 Velos. Sometimes, you get a watch in your hands and it just kind of blows you away, shifting your perspective about what’s possible in a particular genre or price bracket. It can also subtly change your own taste. I still think about those Ophions fondly, and have been excitedly awaiting new work from the brand. Today, Ophion introduces the 411 Vesper, which feels like a significant step forward for the brand in terms of their ambition and the levels of intricacy introduced into the manufacturing process, particularly with respect to the dial.  The Vesper’s design inspiration comes from an influential work of architecture that was never actually built. The Newton Cenotaph, a conceptual work by the architect Étienne-Louis Boullée designed as a tribute to the English scientist, is dominated by an enormous spherical structure 500 feet tall, surrounded by two circular barriers dotted with cypress trees. Boullée was particularly interested in spherical shapes, and his work includes a study referred to as his “theory of bodies” which asserts that the sphere is nature’s most beautiful and perfect shape.  The Newton Cenotaph Ophion’s new Vesper incorporates many of the key design ideas from the Cenotaph into the watch itself. First and foremost, spheres and circular shapes are everywhere. Not just within the dial, but the case (39mm in diameter, 11.45mm tall) , lu...

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Breguet Navigates Tradition and Ambition with the Marine Tourbillon 5577 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Nov 2, 2023

Breguet Navigates Tradition and Ambition with the Marine Tourbillon 5577

In the realm of haute horlogerie, few names hold the same level of esteem and reverence as Breguet. The newly unveiled Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577 is no doubt intended as a tribute to the brand’s visionary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, by drawing inspiration from his deep ties to maritime navigation, astronomy, and the spirit of innovation.  Initial thoughts By introducing a tourbillon for the first time in the Marine collection, Breguet aims to leverage the prestige of the complication to enhance its sport watch offering. Like many other Breguet complications, the Marine tourbillon possesses a high level of quality, particularly in the sophisticated and impressively constructed movement that’s just 3 mm high, making its one of the thinnest tourbillon calibres on the market. The thinness gives the watch elegant proportions, despite the relatively wide case that’s 42.5 mm, as it stands well under 10 mm high. Besides its height, the cal. 581 is notable for having a decoration unique to this watch. The Geneva stripes are modified to feature engraved channels separating the stripes, creating the impression of a sailboat’s decking. However, the devoted Breguet purist might see the addition of a tourbillon to the Marine as a departure from tradition, likely driven by the ambition to compete with comparable sports watches like the Vacheron Constantin Overseas and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.  Abraham-Louis Breguet never incorporated a tourbillon into a marine chronom...

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The Certina DS Super PH1000M dives deep for cheap Time+Tide
Certina DS Super PH1000M dives Oct 31, 2023

The Certina DS Super PH1000M dives deep for cheap

As one of Switzerland’s most underrated brands, it’s great to get reminders of Certina’s place in watchmaking history. By the 1970s dive watches had begun to reach their peak of popularity which still lasts today, and Certina had established their DS or ‘double security’ range which emphasised both water and shock resistance. The DS-2 SuperPH … ContinuedThe post The Certina DS Super PH1000M dives deep for cheap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Meg Tocci Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 27, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Meg Tocci

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Meg Tocci (@minutemeg on Instagram) brings us a well balanced collection hitting on a variety of enthusiast favorites – and all with blue dials, a constraint Meg chose to challenge herself to stick to with these picks. This collection has bronze, an integrated bracelet sports watch, and a bezel that will help you leave an appropriate tip. Between these three watches, you’ve got virtually any situation covered, even if you can’t use a slide-rule.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. If your watchbox is getting a little unwieldy and you’d like to pare down, the three watch collection seems to offer a solution. It frees you from the burden of becoming a One Watch Person (who needs that pressure?) while providing reasonable constraints to shield you from the black hole of price drop alerts and the illusory refrain of “just one more.” It leaves the collector with enough space to make choices without feeling restricted by them. With countless combinations, I knew this project required a strategy. While I considered dropping significant dough on one heavy-hitter and two inexpensive options, I wanted to challenge myself to stretch those dollars as far as I could, with all three choices weighing in above the $1,000 price point. I knew I wanted to prioritize real-life applicability by picking options for both work and leisure. Whee...

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Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 SJX Watches
Panerai Leans Traditional Oct 27, 2023

Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385

Pared back in style, this vintage-inspired limited edition from Panerai takes a simple approach in revisiting a historical design. With a faux-aged dial colour and conical crown, the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 celebrates the anniversary of the original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Priced well at just over US$5,000, it’s a limited edition with just 300 examples being made.  Initial thoughts  The execution of this is clean and will please those who appreciate historical Panerai design. There is nothing added on that doesn’t need to be there, and there are small details which play to those who know their Panerai history. It’s not an exact remake of a vintage model, but has a functional aesthetic that sticks to the spirit of the originals. As an aside, while I’ve never been a fan of mock ageing, the “tropical” dial is an even colour that doesn’t have a fake gradient to it, and so it can arguably be seen as a simple colour choice, rather than recreating faded pigment.  Another notable detail is the 45 mm case. Oversized by most standards, it’s actually more compact than the average historical Radiomir as well as modern-day remakes, which were usually 47 mm. This makes it more wearable, while still looking big enough to retain the Panerai feel. Given the historical background of this design, and the appealing, no-frills design, the price of US$5,400 is good value, particularly when compared against Panerai models like the Radiomir California. With just 300 piec...

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Nodus Introduces a Limited Edition Sector Sport with Bronze Accents Worn & Wound
Seiko NH38 While Nodus has Oct 26, 2023

Nodus Introduces a Limited Edition Sector Sport with Bronze Accents

One could argue that the core of a modern watch company is a competent sports watch. If that were true, it would be no surprise that LA-based Nodus Watches has really found its stride by building a strong catalog of durable, interesting models under $1,000. The so-called Sector Series encompasses – among others – Dive, GMT, and Pilot’s watches. The foundation of this line is simply called the Sector Sport, and today Nodus is adding a limited Sector Sport in steel and bronze. Based on the platonic ideal of a “sports watch” as it was defined in the mid-century, the Sector philosophy is grounded in two defining tenets: 1) an adaptable midcase amenable to varying finishes and future add-ons and 2) a sector dial demarcated by differences in texture and finishing. Specs-wise it means a 38mm x 12.5mm x 47mm case with 20mm lugs, accompanied by an H-link bracelet that tapers from 20 to 18mm. The bracelet also includes the proprietary Nodus NodeX clasp for on-the-fly adjustments. Inside is the Seiko NH38. While Nodus has historically iterated on the Sport with bold colors like Glacial and Marigold, it is taking a new approach with this bronze and steel reference. The anthracite dial is composed of two brass plates. One is the inner sector where the hour hand neatly terminates; the outer sector is home to gilt PVD-coated hour markers. The hands have the same gilt treatment and, paired with the dial, make for a warm and subdued aesthetic. The most noteworthy update here is t...

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Opinion: What Makes a Great Bracelet? Worn & Wound
Rolex sports watch Oct 19, 2023

Opinion: What Makes a Great Bracelet?

We talk about them all the time, but they’re often the component of a watch that is least examined. The bracelet, whether attached to a sports watch, a dress watch, or something in between, can make or break how a watch actually wears on the wrist, and impact the overall look of a watch dramatically. And when it comes to bracelets, collectors and enthusiasts are never short on strong opinions – we all have things we love and hate, and it goes way beyond whether you prefer an Oyster or a Jubilee.  Today, members of the Worn & Wound team weigh in on the question: what makes a great bracelet? Be sure to let us know what you think in the comments below.  Zach Kazan  The question of “What makes a great bracelet?” is deceptive in its complexity. There are a variety of factors you might consider and weight as you evaluate a bracelet. Comfort and appearance, of course, are chief among them. But there’s also the idea of durability, and adjustability, and the overall cohesion of the bracelet design with other elements of the watch. I’d argue, for example, that the classic Seamaster bracelet is nice looking on its own, but perhaps not suited to the watch it’s paired with.  The fact is, I prefer wearing my watches on bracelets, particularly when they are conceived that way. A Rolex sports watch on a strap, for instance, is something I’ll never fully get behind. At a time when integrated bracelet sports watches are at the height of their popularity, there’s no sho...

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The James Brand and Timex Debut a Colorful New Ironman Worn & Wound
Timex Debut Oct 18, 2023

The James Brand and Timex Debut a Colorful New Ironman

If there’s one thing we love around here, it’s an affordable collaboration between two brands we admire. And if there’s a second thing, it’s the 1990s. Well, it just so happens that the latest from our friends at The James Brand and Timex check both of those boxes. The new TJB edition of the classic Timex Ironman comes during a period where brands have fully leaned into collaborative watches to the point that they are the norm, rather than special. But if you are old enough to have a living memory of the 90s (the heyday of the Ironman) it’s hard not to love a release like this one.  The James Brand, for those who might not have been fully wrapped up into the everyday carry scene quite yet, is a Portland, OR based brand making knives, tools, and other EDC items with an eye toward a contemporary and minimalist design language. They can still employ some serious color when called upon though, as their recent collaboration with Topo Designs more than illustrates. This new Ironman incorporates James Brand practicality with a color palette that leans into their more adventurous side, as seen in products like their Redstone and Palmer knives. But it’s turned up to 11 here, in a way that will feel familiar to devotees of the original Ironmans from years ago.  The 39mm resin case is dominated by a vibrant yellow bezel, and is accented with bright red buttons on the case flanks and a turquoise strap made from #TIDE up-cycled ocean plastics. Of course, there’s also an...

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A Week In Watches, Episode. 65: Seiko Prospex Welcomes New Land References; Baltic Changes Course Worn & Wound
Montblanc /Minerva Oct 15, 2023

A Week In Watches, Episode. 65: Seiko Prospex Welcomes New Land References; Baltic Changes Course

A Week In Watches returns with big news from Seiko, who revealed a pair of new Prospex references which celebrate the brand’s history in land-based watches. The pair of limited editions each pick up something special from Seiko’s history, starting with the SPB411 GMT, a watch that recalls the Navigator Timer of the ’60s, which was Seiko first GMT to feature a rotating bezel. The second is a revival of the Landmaster in celebration of its 30th anniversary, where Seiko has brought back the 3 dimensional compass bezel and blue gradient dial. Both work exceptionally well, and highlight the brand’s deep tool watch roots at their very best. Elsewhere we were thrilled to see a new release from Baltic this week, which shifted away from old-school-cool dive watches and put focus on classic field watches. The frame works brilliantly here with lumed applied numerals, a svelte case, and a trick crown that sits flush with the case wall. The watch boasts 4 different dials at launch, and is a welcome expansion of the brand’s refined sense of design. Finally, new releases from Nomos and Ming, as well as a collaboration between Montblanc/Minerva and Collective round out the news that’s caught our attention this week. Catch the full episode below for the run down, and be sure to leave a comment on your thoughts in the video for us to highlight in the next episode. Thanks to this week’s sponsor, Shinola, for their support. To commemorate 10 years of American design and manufact...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Alec Dent Worn & Wound
Blancpain doesn’t have heritage Oct 13, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Alec Dent

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Alec Dent brings us a trio of amazing and historic tool watches, each with a story to tell. This is a selection with loads of character and a surprising amount of flexibility. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. In putting together the perfect three watch collection, I’m looking for diversity. Who wants a collection where each watch is competing against the others? A well-rounded trio gets you more bang for your buck and can provide some assurance that each watch will get a decent amount of wrist time. With only three watches it’s hard to make sure you’ve got a watch for every occasion-like measuring radioactivity, keeping highly-accurate time for a thousand years, or calculating your rate of martini consumption-but I feel confident I’ve covered most of the important bases. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf – $1,500 Every watch collection needs a dive watch. (Or, as many in the watch community seem to think, two or three or four or five or…) There is no better value proposition than the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf. 200 meters of water resistance with a screw down crown? Check. Heritage? I don’t know how you could argue a 141-year-old Swiss made brand that launched one of the first true dive watches alongside Rolex and Blancpain doesn’t have heritage. And unlike those other two brands, which have seen their prices balloon exorbitant...

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Rowing Blazers, Eric Wind, Bamford, and TAG Heuer Team Up for a Colorful Yachting Take on the Carrera Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Team Up Oct 13, 2023

Rowing Blazers, Eric Wind, Bamford, and TAG Heuer Team Up for a Colorful Yachting Take on the Carrera

Even for those who don’t follow menswear closely, I’m sure you’ve undoubtedly heard of Rowing Blazers in the last year or so. Whether it be from their limited releases with Seiko or Tudor, or their recent partnership with Target, Rowing Blazers’ star continues to rise and it’s due, in part, to their proven success in the collaborative business model.  Released today, their latest collection shows how deeply a collaborative spirit is ingrained into the spirit of the brand. The limited edition 42mm “Yacht-Timer” Carrera by Rowing Blazers is the product of founder Jack Carlson, industry veteran Eric Wind, and Bamford Watch Department to bring to life a reimagining of the classic TAG Heuer Yacht-Timer of the 60’s and 70’s. The original Heuer was used by competitive sailors during regattas and it was this sporting history and colorway that stuck with Carlson as they began to design this watch. With a white dial, bright blue text, and hits of red, blue, green, and pale yellow, it was only a matter of time before this preppy color scheme was incorporated into a Rowing Blazer project. By partnering with Eric Wind of Wind Vintage and George Bamford of Bamford Watch Department, the trio was able to create a timepiece that is deeply inspired by the original while still making it a uniquely modern interpretation. The stainless steel Carrera case sits handsomely at 42mm with a matching steel bracelet. The dial of this watch takes elements of the original’s colorway...

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Equine Artisanal Craft with the Hermès Masan Masan Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Ming Oct 13, 2023

Equine Artisanal Craft with the Hermès Masan Masan Pocket Watch

Hermès’ pocket watches consistently demonstrate the brand’s limitless creativity across a spectrum of artisanal crafts. Bringing forth a delightful blend of surprise and anticipation, the Slim d’Hermès Masan Masan Pocket Watch is decorated with horsehair marquetry, a weave technique that forms a finely textured motif. The one-off creation stands as a remarkable achievement, underscoring Hermès’ exceptional talent transforming the distinctive designs drawn from its scarves into works of art for the wrist or pocket. Initial thoughts Hermès’ creativity appears boundless, characterised by an impeccable sense of understated aesthetics that sets it apart from the more extravagant approaches taken by many other manufacturers. Even when Hermès endeavours to go over the top, the outcome remains remarkably restrained, aligning seamlessly with the company’s approach to other product lines. Its collection of exceptional watches always demands a second look to truly appreciate the craftsmanship required to achieve these results, as they often showcase techniques and skills seldom employed by more renowned watchmakers. This is evident in the unique Masan Masan pocket watch, where the artistic craft of marquetry, typically executed with small pieces of various kinds of wood, takes an unexpected turn with the use of woven horsehair, resulting in a beautiful outcome. Applied to the dial of this white gold timepiece, this technique creates a brownish oblique texture, agains...

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Christopher Ward Introduces the Twelve Halo, a Gold Accented and Minimal Take on their Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Oct 12, 2023

Christopher Ward Introduces the Twelve Halo, a Gold Accented and Minimal Take on their Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

Christopher Ward seems to have gotten some divine intervention with the latest release of theirs, the Twelve Halo. Based on the sporty series that boasts a dodecagonal (that’s 12-sided for those of you who failed geometry, like me) case, the Halo has a luxurious update with a ring of gold around the dial. The gold itself is the perfect accent against the otherwise plain appearance of the watch, showing that simple is sometimes the best. Contrasting against the brushed steel case, the 18-karat gold is a bit of mixed-metal done right. While the choice of either a silver or black dial only adds to the simplicity of the overall offering, meaning nothing is detracting from the Halo’s minimalism. Whether one is picking the silver or black dial, you’re treated to small, intentional design features which tie the whole thing together. Gone is a distracting day-date, indices, or numbers and what you’re left with is a lumed handset and a rose gold logo. While I shudder at the term, one can’t deny that this restraint is quiet luxury in its truest form. Coming in at just 36mm, the Twelve Halo is suitable for both men and women. The exhibition back lets one see the Sellita SW 200-1 automatic movement in action. Both models are available on an integrated steel bracelet with a price tag of $2,555. The Twelve Halo is available now via the Christopher Ward website, with delivery expected in December. Christopher Ward Images from this post: The post Christopher Ward Introduces the ...

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A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain Worn & Wound
Rolex Richemont or Oct 12, 2023

A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain

When writing about brands, we often use the words “micro” or “independent” to describe any brand that is not a Swiss luxury powerhouse or part of a mega conglomerate. Think of Rolex, Richemont or the Swatch Group for example. Most micro and independents we write about are, more often than not, brands that are more about design and a certain lifestyle philosophy than engineering and manufacturing. 99% of brands I love are the former. This doesn’t mean, however, that the latter don’t exist. Instead, an independent brand can be qualified as being one which goes beyond design to create stuff. A lot of new and cutting-edge stuff. This brings us to Horage, the Swiss that has been covered in these pages extensively, and more recently, most recently when Ed Jelley reviewed the Lensman 2. What we know about Horage is this: they make their own movements, good ones at that, and unique looking watches. I recently attended an event hosted by Horage through which I discovered that the brand actually does much more. Not only does Horage make its own movements, but it’s also at the forefront of technology to make watch manufacturing more sustainable. Or, should I say, watch collecting more sustainable. Through the discovery of their newest model and caliber-which I will tell you about in a second-I realized that everything in life does indeed work in cycles. Think about this: Rolex started as what we now describe as being a microbrand. It bought parts from many places to...

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Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko models Oct 11, 2023

Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411

Following the release of the 1970s diver reissue and a solar chronograph inspired by a 1990s design, Seiko has reintroduced another historical model as the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411. This remake draws inspiration from the Navigator Timer from 1968, the brand’s first dual time zone watch with a 24-hour rotating bezel. Now it’s been given a modern update with a new calibre and tweaks to the dial design while retaining the retro tonneau-shaped case. Initial thoughts The Navigator Timer is not quite as famous as its diving or chronograph counterparts, but still an important vintage “tool” watch amongst vintage Seikos. The Japanese brand has executed its long-awaited revival admirably, offering a contemporary interpretation with a modern movement while maintaining the essence of its original design. It’s worth noting that this reissue should be more accurately described as a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a genuine GMT with an adjustable local-time hour hand, a feature usually seen in higher-end Grand Seiko models. This distinction means that setting the watch for different time zones involves a few extra steps. However, given its price point, this compromise remains entirely reasonable. Priced at US$1,600, it’s a US$100 increase from the standard Prospex Diver’s GMT. Despite this modest cost bump, opting for this limited edition still offers great value. That said, collectors might be less...

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Omega Constellation Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Constellation Guide Oct 9, 2023

Omega Constellation Guide

The Omega Constellation is not only the Swiss luxury brand’s oldest collection (if we’re tracing the Seamaster back to its first “Professional” dive-watch model in 1957); it’s also the dressiest, with a design heritage that hinges on two classic and very iconoclastic watches from two distinctively different eras: the cult-classic original from the 1950s and the influential revamp in the 1980s. Here’s an in-depth look at the Omega Constellation, its half-century-plus of revolutionary design, and what the collection looks like today. 1952: Making a Pie Omega, founded in 1848 by an ambitious young Swiss watchmaker named Louis Brandt, celebrated its 100th anniversary in the postwar year of 1948. The most memorable watch the company released during that milestone year, most would agree, was the first Seamaster, which introduced the innovative waterproof system that would give rise to today’s sprawling Seamaster Professional collection of dive watches. A rarer and more obscure timepiece introduced that year was the Centenary, Omega’s first chronometer-certified wristwatch. An iconoclastic gold dress watch, highly limited in production, the Centenary took its name from the 100-year anniversary it commemorated and its design would provide the template of a collection that would debut several years later, in 1952, called the Constellation. (Both the Seamaster and the Centenary, incidentally, were the brainchildren of watch designer René Bannwart, who would go on to...

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Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Yema Debuts Oct 6, 2023

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary

Celebrating 75 years in business, French watchmakers Yema have recently released their Yachtingraf Tourbillon Maréographe, a tribute to classic design and Franco-Swiss watchmaking mastery. Ringing in a milestone is never an easy feat; but, somehow, Yema has been able to accomplish not only a timeless design, but something that showcases the pursuit of excellence that has defined the brand over the course of its history.  Don’t let the plain black and steel (or bronze) design fool you – this watch is anything but simple. Yema has incorporated a balance between yachting heritage design and function to show what this watch is capable of – while also doing it with a certain je nais sais quoi, courtesy of a somewhat unexpected tourbillon caliber. The tourbillon is visible at the 6 o’clock mark, giving one an interior look into the precision mechanisms of this masterpiece. Opposite that, at the 12 hour, the Maréographe has a unique lunar time complication with a display of tide cycles, complete with a decorative bearing the traditional Yema “Y” logo. While maybe not part of your day-to-day needs, it’s nonetheless a showing of Yema’s technical capabilities and a bit of a unique offering for an important anniversary. This watch measures in at 42.5 mm, giving it a sense of presence on the wrist that matches the various finishes of the design. The rotating bezel is beautifully crafted with additional scratch protection, while the double-domed sapphire crystal will...

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The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking Time+Tide
Oct 5, 2023

The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking

The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon embraces symmetrical and whimsical design. The Purity Tourbillon movement boasts a huge 17mm tourbillon cage that beats at 4Hz. Close inspection of the openwork movement reveals a lot of hand-finished detail. Although it remains quite a niche genre for the wealthy elite, the list of sapphire-cased watches is quickly growing. … ContinuedThe post The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A Roundup of High End IWC Releases from the Last Month Worn & Wound
IWC Releases from Oct 4, 2023

A Roundup of High End IWC Releases from the Last Month

If you think IWC has been catching their breath after reimagining the Ingenieur earlier this year, think again. The Schaffhausen-based brand has been busy dishing out high end watches over the last month – headlined by the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler – as well as heavy hitters through partnerships with automotive powerhouses. From complications to composite materials, there’s a lot to dig into here. Travel back to winter 2008 for a moment. The global economy is still roiled in recession, the federal funds rate is zero, and IWC marches out one of the rarest and most distinctive references ever: the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Markus Bühler (Ref. 5003). Named after famed IWC apprentice Markus Bühler, the watch featured airplane turbines on the dial and also on its movement. A few years earlier, Bühler’s concept had won the top prize at the Prix IFHH de l’Horlogerie (now known as the Concours IHC), and IWC only made a limited run of twelve pieces. A decade and a half later we meet its successor, the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler. It’s platinum, it’s 43mm, and it’s a real unit. True to form, the turbine is back but has now been integrated into a flying (haha) tourbillon. IWC has crafted the turbine blades from a titanium alloy for weight saving and even repurposed its upper cage as the regulator. The hairspring is attached to one of the blades, allowing a watchmaker to adjust the zero crossing of the balance simply by ...

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A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More Worn & Wound
Tudor Oct 1, 2023

A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More

A Week In Watches returns this week with a look at a trio of divers that take their inspiration from the past, and apply in a thoroughly modern way. No faux lume or tropical dials in sight, prompting us to wonder if that trend is behind us. Divers from Oris, Tudor, and Seiko all paint a clear picture of a way forward that’s not a carbon copy of the past. You might say Seiko has always been ahead in that game, and their latest Prospex divers, which bring the 62MAS flavor into a tidy modern skindiver case that we’ve loved since it was released in 2020. If this is what we can expect more of, count us in. Elsewhere, Farer dropped a pair of new chronographs called the Chrono-Contempo with colorways inspired by two vibrant streets found in London. These are Farer through and through, with unexpected colors and a clean, modern design language. As usual, Farer nails the proportions here thanks to their use of the hand wound SW510M from Sellita. Finally, a collaboration between our friends at Fratello and Minase comes together for the second time, continuing a trend of subtle yet powerful dial executions from the pair. The latest is the M-3 Nori, and gets a dial inspired by Japanese seaweed, which comes together way better than you might expect. Here’s to the next one. The post A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Huy Tran Worn & Wound
Tissot Heritage 1938 Automatic COSC Sep 29, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Huy Tran

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Huy Tran shares a well considered trio that touches on heritage and utility while staying entirely within the practical realm.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. A 3-watch-collection is a fairly common topic of the watch community, and for good reasons. It represents a somewhat minimalist solution for those who still want to enjoy the fascination of these little machines but don’t like the idea of succumbing to consumerism craze. To be honest, I’m actually one of those people and am fancying the potential of selling all my watches to start again with an empty 3-slots watchbox. So this challenge is the perfect opportunity for me to simulate an imaginary outcome and see if I like what I come up with. My three choices reflect the spirit of minimalism that I mention, they are all time-only three-handers that offered by brands from the same watch conglomerate and one of them has just been released recently and gave me the idea. Tissot Heritage 1938 Automatic COSC (Salmon Dial) – $825 When a watch comes with the word “heritage” you know you’re dealing with some vintage inspired design. In fact, this Tissot Heritage 1938 is reminiscent of the watches they produced in the 1930’s, with a classic looking case in a compact but contemporary size of 39mm. The tasteful salmon dial is matte and occupies most of the watch face with ...

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Hands-On: the Manime La Fidele Worn & Wound
Baltic Serica Beaubleu Sep 26, 2023

Hands-On: the Manime La Fidele

It takes a certain courage and determination to start a watch brand. One has to articulate his or her vision into three-dimensional, complex, and mechanical objects. I sometimes struggle to transfer thoughts and ideas about watches to paper, let alone deal with prototypes, source components, and market the final product. In order to get our attention, one must also offer something that is familiar while being different, well-made but not too expensive. If the watch looks too much like something we’ve seen before, we tend to shoot it down. If it comes attached to a price tag orbiting that of fashion watches, we frown at it. So, perhaps we should celebrate the efforts brands put out on an almost daily basis to bring us new watches, as many of us wouldn’t be able to do the same.  In that spirit, today we’re going to take a look at the second model from a young French brand called Manime. The model in question is La Fidèle (“The Loyal One” in French) which is the founder’s take on the popular genre of sport watches with integrated bracelets.  Manime was founded in 2020 by Edouard Paris, a countryman based out of Thailand. I say countryman because I was born and raised in France, a country which was put back on the horological map ten years ago thanks to popular brands in the likes of Baltic, Serica, Beaubleu and Yema. I may (obviously) be biased here but I believe that French watches come with a certain aesthetic that leans strongly towards elegance and sobriety...

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Hands-On: the D1 Milano Polycarbon Sketch Worn & Wound
Seiko VJ21 Dial Matte black Sep 25, 2023

Hands-On: the D1 Milano Polycarbon Sketch

At this point in my watch collecting journey, most of my purchases are considered. They are often the result of months, or even years, of planning, or simply waiting until the planets align and the rarest of pieces comes up for sale. However, I’m gleeful to see that sometimes I can still be blindsided by a new release and find that my fingers have entered my card details even before my brain has realized what’s happening. That’s how the Polycarbon ‘Sketch’ from D1 Milano ended up in my watch box. It’s cheap and cheerful, but is it good value? After a close examination, I’m still happy. Looking at D1 Milano’s online catalog of watches, most play heavily on the current integrated-bracelet sports watch trend, and it would be fair to say that some models are influenced rather heavily by other luxury watches. The Polycarbon series, for example, features an 8-sided bezel and overall vibe that definitely brings a specific, more expensive, watch to mind. What has drawn me to this particular variant though, is not the likeness it bears to anything else, but the immediate impact it has and individuality it displays. It just so happens that the case, bezel and bracelet lines on show here, whether original or not, make a great canvas for the sketch effect that D1 Milano has embellished it with. $195 Hands-On: the D1 Milano Polycarbon Sketch Case Polycarbonate, soft-touch coating Movement Seiko VJ21 Dial Matte black Lume None Lens Mineral Strap Polycarbonate, soft-touch...

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