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Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s First Limited Editions Jan 12, 2023

Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber

It’s an often repeated mantra around here: every year is an anniversary year. And if a watch brand is going to be successful in today’s hyper competitive market where, frankly, a lot of brands are offering products that are remarkably similar to one another, they need to differentiate themselves. And looking at a calendar, and figuring out how many years it’s been since “X” accomplishment or “Y” watch was first released is (usually) a decent runway for explaining what makes you special. To that end, Grand Seiko is embarking on what will apparently be a year of celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Caliber 9S, a movement which has become foundational to Grand Seiko in the decades since its debut.  The Caliber 9S has become a broad family of movements over the years, as Grand Seiko has continuously refined the caliber, including adding GMT functionality. Grand Seiko has used the 9S movements as a platform for their MEMS engineering techniques, which allow for insanely tight tolerances in movement making for certain key components, and you could probably argue that 9S movements represent the most traditional watchmaking currently practiced by the brand. Today, 9S movements are universally known to be reliable and rock solid high frequency calibers that often perform even better than the specs would indicate. Most recently, the 9S served as the springboard for the creation of Grand Seiko’s next generation Hi-Beat movement, the 9SA5.  While it might not be t...

Which watch brand won 2022? Luke picks Omega - here are five reasons why… Time+Tide
Omega here are five reasons Jan 5, 2023

Which watch brand won 2022? Luke picks Omega - here are five reasons why…

When asked to give my thoughts on which watch brand “won” 2022, I feared for a second that it might be a trick question. That’s because, for me at least, the answer is so forehead-slappingly obvious that you’d need to perform all sorts of mental gymnastics to conceive of any vaguely credible challengers.  Last year, … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Luke picks Omega – here are five reasons why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What I Learned During Quarantine: Flash Shooting With The Hasselblad X1D II And Godox V1 Flash - Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 1, 2023

What I Learned During Quarantine: Flash Shooting With The Hasselblad X1D II And Godox V1 Flash - Reprise

From the torrent of really well done watch photos appearing on Instagram and other media these days, it appears as though lots of watch enthusiasts have been spending at least some of their time in COVID-19-induced shutdowns polishing their macro photography and wrist shooting. And GaryG is among them. Here he shares a few of the thousands of photos he has taken recently using a new-to-him flash style.

Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook Dec 30, 2022

Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world

Watches. They broadly tell the time, but the way in which they do so is where things get interesting. You have your minimalists, which strip things down to the barest of elements: an hour and minute hand. Once you begin to add complications, like a second hand, a chronograph function, day/date apertures, perpetual calendars, and … ContinuedThe post Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Takeaways from Attending My First Live Watch Auction SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue Dec 30, 2022

Takeaways from Attending My First Live Watch Auction

I have always been fascinated by the drama that unfolds at a live watch auction – the excitement, the applause that accompanies a record hammer price, and the occasional silence when there are no bids to be found made. As a collector, the drama that unfolds adds colour to the hobby and adds another dimension to the business.  I had long tuned in for the livestream of auctions since I purchased my first vintage timepiece almost a decade ago. I followed the blockbuster results in the salerooms of the three leading auction houses, Phillips, Sotheby’s and Christie’s, but I had yet to experience being in the room until my outing to the recent fall sales in Hong Kong.  Watching the gavel fall on screen I knew I had to attend a live auction after watching the Sotheby’s Geneva auction that took place in December 2014. On my laptop I saw the sale of the Henry Graves Supercomplication unfold, when the man with the red tie, whom I later discovered to be Aurel Bacs, won the watch for US$24 million.  A few years later, while commuting to my first job out of college, I caught the exact moment when Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona sold for a record at Phillips’ in New York. More recently, I tuned in for the sale of the F.P. Journe FFC Blue at Only Watch last year. Even though I only watched these sales on a screen, it is clear that watch auctions at the highest level are almost a competitive sport, with bidders from across the world or the aisle locked in a ...

Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Dec 24, 2022

Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO

When it comes to the world’s most desired timepieces, one name stands head and shoulders above the rest: Rolex. And among the legendary models from the storied marque, the Daytona chronograph is at the top of most enthusiasts’ wish lists. No other chronograph generates the same level of FOMO heat in today’s market, with its … ContinuedThe post Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five Sensational 2012 Vintage Champagnes To Kick Off The New Year From Louis Roederer Cristal, Pol Roger, And Bollinger. Cheers! Quill & Pad
Dec 24, 2022

Five Sensational 2012 Vintage Champagnes To Kick Off The New Year From Louis Roederer Cristal, Pol Roger, And Bollinger. Cheers!

For many watch enthusiasts, it is probably not a stretch to say that fine timepieces are often enjoyed with a fine glass of bubbly. So without further ado, here are five much-heralded prestige champagne releases from the stellar 2012 vintage that stand out for their extraordinary “taste.” Just in time for you to toast the start of 2023!

INTRODUCING: The Laco Edition 97 is a classic Type B pilot’s watch in bronze Time+Tide
Laco Edition 97 Dec 22, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Laco Edition 97 is a classic Type B pilot’s watch in bronze

Laco is the type of brand that attracts a niche group of watch enthusiasts: those who are into old school pilot watches and that appreciate having the real deal. In 2022, anyone can buy a good-looking, well-made pilot watch from any of 100 brands at different prices. That’s because these watches are exceptionally legible and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Laco Edition 97 is a classic Type B pilot’s watch in bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Buy our ‘Koallaboration’ with Nivada Grenchen and seconde/seconde/ and save koalas until December 31 Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Dec 21, 2022

Buy our ‘Koallaboration’ with Nivada Grenchen and seconde/seconde/ and save koalas until December 31

Coming up on three years ago, Australia had one of the most lethal summers for wildfires – we call them bushfires down here – on record. It was, quite literally, a nightmare. During the days, the skies would darken to a point where cars would use headlights at midday. But it wasn’t thunderstorm, or night-time … ContinuedThe post Buy our ‘Koallaboration’ with Nivada Grenchen and seconde/seconde/ and save koalas until December 31 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Norqain Wild One collection ushers in the next era of the brand Time+Tide
Norqain Wild One collection ushers Dec 19, 2022

VIDEO: The Norqain Wild One collection ushers in the next era of the brand

Editor’s note: When the Norqain Wild One launched at the end of September in Zermatt, we went in-depth on the collection, the new NORTEQ carbon composite material, and spoke with Norqain CEO Ben Küffer and Jean-Claude Biver, an adviser to the board. Below you can find our brand new hands-on video review of the entire collection and our … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Norqain Wild One collection ushers in the next era of the brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Race over to Chadstone for an adrenaline-filled IWC experience Time+Tide
IWC experience If you have Dec 16, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Race over to Chadstone for an adrenaline-filled IWC experience

If you have ever binge-watched Drive to Survive, played the Gran Turismo video games, or, more plainly, are a Formula 1 super-fan, then you will probably want to race over to the IWC pop-up racing experience over at the Chadstone Shopping Centre. Not only will you be able to get hands-on with a range of IWC watches, you will … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Race over to Chadstone for an adrenaline-filled IWC experience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We let an AI review three of the most iconic watches. Here are the results Time+Tide
Dec 12, 2022

We let an AI review three of the most iconic watches. Here are the results

“It seems probable that once the machine thinking method had started, it would not take long to outstrip our feeble powers… They would be able to converse with each other to sharpen their wits. At some stage, therefore, we should have to expect the machines to take control.” – Alan Turing. Whenever I think of … ContinuedThe post We let an AI review three of the most iconic watches. Here are the results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune DB25s QP: Near Perfect Is Now Perfect! Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB25s QP Near Perfect Dec 11, 2022

De Bethune DB25s QP: Near Perfect Is Now Perfect!

When De Bethune released the new DB25s Perpetual Calendar at Geneva Watch Days 2022, the main talking point was just how much the model had shrunk from its previous iterations to become a more perfect proportion. And like any good diet consultation, it was the result of careful and deliberate attention paid to the watch as a whole and how components worked with each other.

Barstool Sports “presidente” Dave Portnoy offends watch lovers with his new watch brand - then doubles down Time+Tide
Oris ed modification – no Dec 11, 2022

Barstool Sports “presidente” Dave Portnoy offends watch lovers with his new watch brand - then doubles down

Within basketball slang, the term “bricked” is used when someone badly misses a shot. A bricked phone, computer, or gaming console refers to when a device – typically after unauthorised modification – no longer can boot or power on. Bricked effectively means complete and utter failure, unless you add the word “up” after it – … ContinuedThe post Barstool Sports “presidente” Dave Portnoy offends watch lovers with his new watch brand – then doubles down appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes - Reprise Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon Dec 11, 2022

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes - Reprise

As Joshua Munchow swiped through posts on Instagram one day, he was stopped in his tracks, toothbrush dangling from his gaping mouth, eyes wide, and one singular thought running through his head as he stared at his phone: Grand Seiko doesn’t make movements like this. This is an avant-garde tourbillon movement with a constant force escapement and incredible, exposed mechanics! What in the world . . .?! Meet the T0.

Magon Fórsa Titanium Automatic Column Wheel Chronograph By Stephen McGonigle: Incredible Engineering And Unparalleled Quality For The Price - Reprise Quill & Pad
Dec 10, 2022

Magon Fórsa Titanium Automatic Column Wheel Chronograph By Stephen McGonigle: Incredible Engineering And Unparalleled Quality For The Price - Reprise

Stephen McGonigle, owner and co-founder of McGonigle watches, has been regularly asked by friends and watch aficionados over the years to make something that they could afford – or at least aspire to. Making a relatively affordable watch that he could be proud of was a challenge, but one McGonigle has met with the first watch from his new Magon brand: the Fórsa Titanium, an automatic column wheel chronograph in a distinctive tonneau-shaped case.

Auction Watch: The Unique Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001 Dec 9, 2022

Auction Watch: The Unique Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001

On very rare occasions does Grand Seiko create unique versions of its watches. But it has done so with a unique version of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon – the one-off reference SLGT001 – that will go under the hammer at Phillips’ New York auction December 11, with some proceeds from the sale going to a children’s charity. Anyone who read our earlier in-depth, two-part story on the Kodo (part I covers the watch and part II its technical features) will understand the the impressive technical achievement that is its movement. The SLGT001 has all of that, but in a unique execution specifically for the auction. Engraved “Unique Piece No. 1/1” on the back, the SLGT001 is instantly recognisable as a one-off. While the standard version of the model has a monochromatic grey palette, the SLGT001 is set apart by its colour: heat-blued and gilded components against rhodium-plated bridges. Most of the screws are blued steel, while the three-armed tourbillon carriage is blued titanium. And the SLGT001 is also distinguished by its case material. Unlike the standard model that has a case made up of both titanium and platinum, this is entirely in Brilliant Hard Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that boasts a brighter, more silvery hue than most titanium alloys. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the SLGT001 will go to the Children’s Heart Foundation. Besides benefiting a good cause, the winning bidder will also get a trip to Japan to meet the team behind...

Lang & Heyne Introduces the Friedrich II Remontoir “The Lavish Attic” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe have made it Dec 9, 2022

Lang & Heyne Introduces the Friedrich II Remontoir “The Lavish Attic”

Dresden-based Lang & Heyne is a German independent watchmaker that makes just 100 to 150 timepieces per year. Created to mark the ninth year of the partnership with its retailer in Hong Kong, its latest release is the Friedrich II Remontoir “The Lavish Attic Edition”. If the watch sounds familiar, that’s because the prototype of the limited edition was sold at Phillips in May for HK$819,000, or just over US$105,000. Now it returns as a serial-production timepiece in a limited edition of 36 watches – nine pieces each in stainless steel, white gold, rose gold and platinum. Lang & Heyne (L&H;) was founded in 2001 by watchmakers Marco Lang, Mirko Heyne, and Lothar Zieger. All three founders have since left the brand, most recently Mr Lang, who left to set up his eponymous brand. Their departure has allowed the brand to evolve into less traditional watches like the Friedrich II Remontoir for the Lavish Attic, which has a sporty aesthetic and titanium movement bridges. Initial thoughts I was intrigued when I came across the prototype offered at Phillips. A watch with a constant-force escapement is something you don’t often see (even if brands like F.P. Journe have made it a speciality). That, combined with the stark black dial, steel bracelet, and sporty design, made it an unusual proposition. As a serially-produced watch, albeit a limited edition, the Lavish Attic edition retains the key elements that give it a distinctive look, namely the glossy, black enamel dial ...

The Franck Muller Vanguard Skeleton Colour Dreams is a joyful riot of mad-cap fun Time+Tide
Franck Muller Vanguard Skeleton Colour Dreams Dec 8, 2022

The Franck Muller Vanguard Skeleton Colour Dreams is a joyful riot of mad-cap fun

Ever wondered what happens when you take the colour wheel and throw it at a watch with extreme craftsmanship and precision? Well, we recently found out. Franck Muller and colour share a healthy, two decade-long relationship, marked by the release of the first Colour Dreams model during the turn of the millennium. From the Crazy … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Vanguard Skeleton Colour Dreams is a joyful riot of mad-cap fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: The Whys and Wherefores of Rolex Certified Pre-Owned SJX Watches
Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Having just Dec 2, 2022

Editorial: The Whys and Wherefores of Rolex Certified Pre-Owned

Having just announced the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned programme, the Geneva watchmaking giant has in the headlines everywhere. The programme is certainly a significant development, though it will probably play out in a more nuanced manner than predicted in most media. To recap, Rolex Certified Pre-Owned is open to all and any of the brand’s retailers on a voluntary basis. It allows a retailer to sell pre-owned Rolex watches – that have to be at least three years old – but only after they have gone through an official Rolex service centre. Importantly, retailers will have to source their own pre-owned inventory, pay Rolex for servicing, and are free to set prices on their pre-owned offerings. Such certified pre-owned (CPO) watches will be accompanied by a two-year guarantee as well as a Rolex Certified Pre-Owned guarantee card (in addition to the original guarantee card and accessories if available). The first to embark on the CPO programme is the biggest Rolex retailer in Europe, Bucherer, which already has CPO watches on sale. Other retailers will be able to do the same from spring 2023 should they choose to do so. Crucially, Rolex CPO has nothing to do with the grey market, which is the market for brand-new watches sold via non-authorised channels. It is where brand-new Rolex watches sold at a premium to retail are transacted. On the other hand, Rolex CPO all about pre-owned watches that are at least three years old. And Rolex knows exactly when a watch is three ye...