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SJX Watches

Breitling Refines Nov 1, 2023

Breitling Refines the Avenger Collection

Breitling has redesigned the Avenger collection of big and bold pilot’s watches. First introduced in 2001 – the original is perhaps best known for being worn by Leonardo DiCaprio in Blood Diamond – the Avenger is now (very) slightly scaled down, kitted out with cleaner dials and better case detailing, and an in-house movement for the chronograph. Made up of the B01 Chronograph 44, GMT 44 and Automatic 42, the new Avenger collection still retains its signature size and style – the watches remain oversized, rugged, and functional, with chunky rotating bezels and 300 m of water resistance. Initial thoughts  Breitling is known for is oversized pilot’s watches and the Avenger is exactly that. More substantial and modern than the old-school Navitimer, the Avenger is an unapologetically big, bold “tool” watch. The facelift has streamlined the design slightly, giving it a cleaner and more contemporary look, while retaining the key elements of the Avenger, including the all-matte brushed case and rotating bezel with rider tab. While there are technically three models in the family, the key one has always been the chronograph, and that is emphasised here with the Avenger chronograph with in-house Calibre B01. This is now the only chronograph in the line-up, while previously the collection included both ETA-powered and in-house versions. The Breitling B01 features a vertical clutch and column wheel Although the chronograph is the priciest in the collection, it is defi...

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D Deployant

Deployant

Oct 18, 2023

New: Holgur Frømand Edition Fumée

Atelier Holgur extends their Frømand collection with two fumé style dials in a coral red and emerald green. Limitd editions of 8 pieces each.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Grand Seiko SBGW297 & SBGW299 bring Oct 12, 2023

The Grand Seiko SBGW297 & SBGW299 bring back bracelets to 36.5mm 44GS cases

Grand Seiko expands the popular 36.5mm 44GS line with two new fan-textured dials, complete with steel bracelets.The post The Grand Seiko SBGW297 & SBGW299 bring back bracelets to 36.5mm 44GS cases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Oct 11, 2023

Alsta Refreshes the Nautoscaph with Three Vintage Inspired Skin Divers

Fans of the skin diver, the easy to wear style of dive watch that has become core to the watch-nerd lifestyle in recent years, will be excited to hear about the new Nautoscaph Skin Divers from Alsta, a watch brand that was truly there at the beginning of the skin diver movement in the heyday of recreational SCUBA diving decades ago. It’s very easy, in my opinion, to see the appeal of the skin diver. They were made to be an approachable alternative to more professional oriented dive watches years ago, and those design characteristics that made them appealing in the 60s and 70s remain alluring today. These watches tend to have smaller case sizes that are thinner and easier to handle than bigger, chunkier divers that are rated to go much deeper. Plus, you still get an ultra practical, highly legible dial. Ditto for the timing bezel. What’s not to like?  Alsta is perhaps best known these days for being associated, somewhat loosely, with Jaws, which we covered earlier this year in podcast form. Richard Dreyfuss, as Matt Hooper, wore an Alsta throughout the film, in a way that can only be described as inconspicuous and incredibly casual. It just feels like the right kind of watch for a character who might or might not need to do a little diving, and it looks at home topside in a variety of situations, which is part of the point of a skin diver to begin with. The new Nautoscaphs seen here certainly have a similar vibe, and would make sense on the wrist of Matt Hooper or his ...

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SJX Watches

Grand Seiko models Oct 11, 2023

Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411

Following the release of the 1970s diver reissue and a solar chronograph inspired by a 1990s design, Seiko has reintroduced another historical model as the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411. This remake draws inspiration from the Navigator Timer from 1968, the brand’s first dual time zone watch with a 24-hour rotating bezel. Now it’s been given a modern update with a new calibre and tweaks to the dial design while retaining the retro tonneau-shaped case. Initial thoughts The Navigator Timer is not quite as famous as its diving or chronograph counterparts, but still an important vintage “tool” watch amongst vintage Seikos. The Japanese brand has executed its long-awaited revival admirably, offering a contemporary interpretation with a modern movement while maintaining the essence of its original design. It’s worth noting that this reissue should be more accurately described as a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a genuine GMT with an adjustable local-time hour hand, a feature usually seen in higher-end Grand Seiko models. This distinction means that setting the watch for different time zones involves a few extra steps. However, given its price point, this compromise remains entirely reasonable. Priced at US$1,600, it’s a US$100 increase from the standard Prospex Diver’s GMT. Despite this modest cost bump, opting for this limited edition still offers great value. That said, collectors might be less...

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Worn & Wound

Oct 10, 2023

Timor Launches a Contemporary Take on their Classic “Dirty Dozen” Watch

Field watches, as Zach alluded to earlier this week, are, in some sense, the best kind of watch. Free from extraneous moving parts or features, field watches are designed to do what watches do – tell time legibly and not break. At no point was this more necessary than during World War II when Britain’s Ministry of Defense issued a request for durable watches under the specification “WWW”: wrist, watch, waterproof. One of the famous 12 companies (AKA the Dirty Dozen) that answered the call was the Timor Watch Company. The rest, as they say, is history, and eight decades later we have the modern successor to the Timor WWW. Let’s get the specs out of the way: The new Modern Field 100M’s case is PVD-coated 316L steel for maximum stealth, and the domed crystal is also treated to combat glare. Timor has elected to preserve the watch’s historic 36.5mm size while keeping the remaining dimensions very reasonable: 12mm thick, 45.5mm lug to lug (18mm lug width), and 94 grams on the seat belt nylon strap. Inside is a modified Sellita SW260 movement. Water resistance is 100 meters, which Timor considers perfect “in rain, river, or during a rigorous workout.” The dial of the Modern Field 100M is what you would expect from a no-nonsense watch: Large Arabic hour markers paired with their 24-hour equivalents. Along the chapter ring is a smaller scale of 5-minute increments. Simple pencil hour and minute hands, carried over from the original Timor Dirty Dozen, make time-te...

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Worn & Wound

Bulova Oct 6, 2023

eBay Finds: Sporty Swatch Watches and Seikos to Formal Bulova and Omega Watches

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Seiko 5 Sports 6119-6400 Day Date Starting off this week with a sweet vintage Seiko 5 Sports diver. This one is really cool, with a round, UFO style steel case that has a simple black external bezel but an internal rotating elapsed time bezel. The black dial is clean with lume filled steel baton hour markers. The correct crown is recessed at 4 o’clock which gives it a clean look. The Hardlex crystal has some scratches, but you can find replacements with a little eBay searching. These models are usually beaten to a pulp, but this one is about as clean as you’ll find. The bracelet isn’t original unfortunately, but the watch is still on point. View auction here. Vintage Bulova Here we have a gorgeous vintage Bulova dress watch. This beauty is from 1950, and the fancy “knotted” lugs are the hero for sure. The 29mm case is in pretty good shape, with little wearthrough on the 10k gold plate case. The two-tone silver dial looks to be original and has only a light, even patina which looks fantastic. Gold dauphine hands round out the look. The Bulova caliber 10BC manual wind movement is clean and the seller states it runs well. Really an amazing and stylish Mid-Century Mod Bulova dre...

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Worn & Wound

Oct 6, 2023

Beaubleu Launches the Ecce, the French Brand’s First Permanent Collection

Beaubleu is a French brand that we’ve covered a handful of times since their debut in 2017, and we certainly have a soft spot for their quirky and contemporary design language. The basic idea is rather simple, at least on paper: instead of traditional hands, Beaubleu uses circular rings of different sizes to tell the time. As they move around the dial, it creates a very different impression than what you’d see on a normal watch, and causes some reflection as to why traditional handsets, with their inherent precision, are so commonplace to begin with. Like Alain Silberstein’s designs, Beaubleu’s watches remind us that a watch can be anything, and that shape is a critical element in how we relate to watches both practically and emotionally. Beaubleu, to this point, has also done a fantastic job of using color to drive these ideas home. With their new Ecce line of watches, the brand’s first permanent collection, Beaubleu has further refined their aesthetic, adding a bracelet for the first time, and making subtle changes to their dials and cases that allow everything to work together a bit more harmoniously.  The core of the design, of course, is unchanged. We still get the unique circular hands in the three models that launch the Ecce collection, with a large running seconds circle, a small hours circle, and a medium sized minutes circle in between. The 39mm cases have sculpted flanks and prominent, brushed circular bezel that complements the hands as well the circ...

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Worn & Wound

Tissot Heritage 1938 Automatic COSC Sep 29, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Huy Tran

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Huy Tran shares a well considered trio that touches on heritage and utility while staying entirely within the practical realm.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. A 3-watch-collection is a fairly common topic of the watch community, and for good reasons. It represents a somewhat minimalist solution for those who still want to enjoy the fascination of these little machines but don’t like the idea of succumbing to consumerism craze. To be honest, I’m actually one of those people and am fancying the potential of selling all my watches to start again with an empty 3-slots watchbox. So this challenge is the perfect opportunity for me to simulate an imaginary outcome and see if I like what I come up with. My three choices reflect the spirit of minimalism that I mention, they are all time-only three-handers that offered by brands from the same watch conglomerate and one of them has just been released recently and gave me the idea. Tissot Heritage 1938 Automatic COSC (Salmon Dial) – $825 When a watch comes with the word “heritage” you know you’re dealing with some vintage inspired design. In fact, this Tissot Heritage 1938 is reminiscent of the watches they produced in the 1930’s, with a classic looking case in a compact but contemporary size of 39mm. The tasteful salmon dial is matte and occupies most of the watch face with ...

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Worn & Wound

Sep 22, 2023

Arcanaut Introduces the Arc II D’Arc Matter Colours Collection

Regular readers are likely familiar with (or perhaps deeply bored by) my personal affection for Arcanaut, the Copenhagen based brand that is responsible for what is certainly my own personal favorite watch acquisition of the year. I wrote about how the Arc II Fordite kind of broke my brain and changed my perception of what’s possible when it comes to accessible creativity mixed with real craft back in July, and I’m happy to say that watch is still a regular part of the rotation and continues to be deeply rewarding to own. So I was excited to see a press release find its way to my inbox recently for the latest release from Arcanaut, the Arc II D’Arc Matter Colours Collection. If your reaction to an Arcanaut like mine, with a sterile but psychedelic dial made of reclaimed car paint, is that the case looks great but you just need something to clearly delineate the actual time, these new watches might be worth taking a look at. Even though they clearly have a very different presentation than the Arc II Fordite, they still convey all the charm that makes the brand so interesting.  The Colours Collection returns to a motif that Arcanaut first shared in 2021, with a clean slate dial that couldn’t be more different than the wild and unpredictable Fordite dials they’ve been dabbling with over the last year. The dials have a subtle texture, and are finished in Sweden by James “Black Badger” Thompson, whose title at Arcanaut is Chief of Materials Research. A fitting ti...

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Worn & Wound

Farer Debuts Sep 21, 2023

Farer Debuts a New Chronograph Collection, the Chrono-Contempo

Each new release from Farer seems to be made to combat the stereotype that British design is dull or humdrum. And with each reference comes an innate understanding of color combinations, setting it apart from similar brands in the market. Their latest collection, the Chrono-Contempo line, might just be the best yet from Farer to showcase the brand’s talents in action. The Chrono-Contempo collection, released today, has taken inspiration from Farer’s own backyard. The colorways in this collection are the aptly named Chalcot and Portobello, two nods to historic parts of London. Each with its own unique take on contemporary design, the two blend beautifully to create a broader landscape of Farer’s unique eye for color, encompassing vibrant orange, subtle navy, and a shock of mint green. Chalcot, named for the Square right next door to Farer’s HQ, balances big personality in a wearable design. Inspired by the “Big Eye” chronograph (named for the minute counter being larger than the other subdials), there’s a lot happening on the dial, without ever feeling overwhelming. This is due, in part, to the subtle way in which two of the subdials blend into the mint green backdrop, while the 3 o’clock subdial stands out in white. Further accented by a navy ceramic bezel and orange hands, this watch does Chalcot Square’s characteristic style justice. Second, there is Portobello. This stretch of London is a bustling, creative, and metropolitan hub and the watch mirrors t...

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Worn & Wound

Oris Introduces Sep 19, 2023

Oris Introduces a New Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph with Major Case Refinements

As the wave of vintage-inspired watches stretches into its second decade, it’s easy to forget who was at the forefront. Among them was Oris and its Divers Sixty-Five, a collection that has grown to encompass myriad configurations. Customers are spoiled for choice with steel, bronze, and two tone watches in various sizes and with dials ranging from demure to outright fun. Up until 2019 (not counting the Brashear limited edition a year earlier), the Divers Sixty-Five had always been just that: a diver. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph has always been quietly competent, but today Oris updates the model. Spoiler: there’s a lot to like. First and foremost, Oris has massaged the case to 40mm, a more palatable size for the mainstream with finer proportions. Thickness is down from 17mm(!) to a more manageable 15.4mm. Gone also are the overtly vintage accents on the bezel edge and throughout the dial. You won’t find any fauxtina lume or gilt text here. Instead, what we have is a truly monochromatic dial and bezel layout. One gets the impression that this is a more serious, if somewhat austere, watch with its foot firmly planted in the modern era. What hasn’t changed is what’s inside: behind the sapphire exhibition caseback beats Oris’ caliber 771 (Sellita 510 base) providing 48-hours of power with automatic and manual winding. You have central chronograph seconds, continuously running seconds at nine o-clock, and a thirty minute counter at three. Water resistance...

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Worn & Wound

Oris Airstream Here Sep 18, 2023

Meetup Recap: Making Time in DC with Worn & Wound Readers and the Oris Airstream

Here at Worn & Wound, we talk a lot about a concept we refer to as “curated approachability.” This is the concept that we can celebrate our enthusiasm for products, especially watches, in a way that is both elevated, yet accessible. It’s a fine line to walk and few brands can do that better than Oris. So we were thrilled when the Oris team approached us about doing a meetup-style event with them somewhere a bit off the beaten path. We knew the Washington DC area was a spot where we not only had a strong crop of Worn & Wound readers, but it was a place where we were bound to have a great time. On Sunday, September 10th-at a stellar indoor/outdoor venue called Hook Hall-we squeezed the always-impressive Oris Airstream in and joined the Oris team along with dozens upon dozens of watch enthusiasts. Together we broke bread… er sliders, made new friends, and examined the full range of Oris’ new offerings. Some highlights on display from the Oris collection included the all-new 40mm Limited Edition Big Crown Pilot celebrating the life and humanitarian work of baseball hall-of-famer Hank Aaron. Guests were also treated to the striking Aquis Hölstein Edition 2023, which sports a striking purple dial that you can’t take your eyes off. To top it off, guests could try on the full array of their ever-popular “Cotton Candy” Divers Sixty-Fives in both steel and bronze. Oris Hank Aaron Limited Edition Oris Aquis Hölstein Edition 2023 Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton ...

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Worn & Wound

MB&F; Sep 15, 2023

It’s M.A.D. 1 Raffle Time Again, Now with a New Green Version

If you’ve been trying to score a M.A.D. 1 – the absolutely insane, value oriented limited edition watch that most certainly is not an MB&F; but is conceived by many of the same people – you’re in luck. Max Busser, the “MB” of MB&F;, has announced that a new version of the M.A.D. 1 is soon to be released, this time in green, with options to purchase still determined by a raffle. Ever since the original M.A.D. 1 appeared in the spring of 2022, it’s been an object of considerable fascination for the many admirers of MB&F; who simply can’t afford a watch with a six figure price tag. The conceit of the M.A.D. 1 is that it offers a whole lot of the imagination and playful whimsy of an MB&F; piece, but with an off-the-shelf movement (heavily modified) in an unusual case for not a whole lot of money. Their scarcity, and the sheer visual impression these watches leave, has made them an enduring Instagram hit with a certain type of enthusiast.  The new M.A.D. 1 is effectively the same watch as the previous version, but with bright green accents instead of red. For those who might be brand new to the concept, a quick overview of how thing works might be in order. The heart of the M.A.D. 1 is a simple Miyota automatic caliber that has been inverted, so the back of the movement points up, where you’d normally find a dial. But there is no dial – just a rapidly spinning, triple blade, tungstend/titanium rotor, which we suspect is the single most heavily modified piece of...

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Worn & Wound

Tissot Unveils Sep 11, 2023

Tissot Unveils the New Heritage 1938 References, Inspired by the Timeless Design of the 1930s

Sometimes all you need is a simple, well-designed watch. For over 170 years, Tissot has been providing just that. Now, with their latest release, the Tissot Heritage 1938, we’re seeing the Swiss brand look to their archives to bring back a time-tested design that has never gone out of style. As the name implies, Tissot was inspired by the design language of the 1930’s for the Heritage 1938 collection. With minimal dials and vintage inspired colorways that blend seamlessly into the 39mm stainless steel case, Tissot celebrates its heritage while never falling into the trap of making these watches feel like a recycling of old ideas. Instead, what we get is a refresh of a design that, put simply, just works. Two options are available in the Tissot Heritage 1938 collection: the Tissot Heritage Small Second Auto COSC 1938 and the Tissot Heritage Gent Auto COSC 1938. The former is powered by a 2895-2 COSC movement, while the latter is powered by a 2824-2 COSC movement. Both promise reliable timekeeping with a power reserve exceeding 40 hours. As the name would suggest, the Small Second reference has a small silvered running seconds subdial at the 6 o’clock mark and a date at 3 o’clock against a dark gray dial. The two Gent references (one with a salmon dial, the other dark gray) lack both of these features, but nonetheless have their own charm to them, showcasing the versatility that comes with a minimally-designed watch that can stand on its own. Whether going with the G...

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Worn & Wound

Laco Sep 11, 2023

Review: the Circula DiveSport Titanium

Roughly 20 years ago, I was tasked by my editor and Baume & Mercier to review the latter’s latest, toughest tool watch. I know what you are thinking. Baume & Mercier and the words “tool watch” do not go together. Well, for a brief period, the appropriately named Capeland XXL was just that. This was a large titanium dive watch, with a striking yellow patterned dial, with oversized hands and a helium escape valve. It was such a departure from their norm and boy, was it a super cool watch.  Fast forward to today and I have another super cool titanium, yellow dialed diver to review, the Circula DiveSport. Circula has been around since 1955, founded by the current owner’s grandfather Heinz Huber. Based in Pforzheim, Circula shares a hometown with Aristo, Laco and Stowa, as well as renowned case maker Fricker GmbH. Circula has been rejuvenated as of late, with Cornelius Huber now at the helm. Their previous models leaned heavily on classical designs from yesteryear and just like the Capeland XXL, the new DiveSport is a departure from the norm. From the design to the materials, this one is fully modern and has its sights on the future.  The DiveSport’s multi-faceted grade 2 titanium case measures 42mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug length of only 48.5mm and it is 13.4mm slim (+0.5mm with the crystal). Why did he say slim, you may be asking, as 13.4mm does not sound that thin. It is if you consider the 500m depth rating! Also, when you combine the 133g weight (with 2 l...

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SJX Watches

Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils Sep 11, 2023

Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the Planetarium in DLC and Turquoise

Long a specialist in astronomical complications, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CVDK) has just unveiled an unconventional take on one of its signature models, the Planetarium Eise Eisinga Black DLC SHH Edition. Named after the 18th century Dutch astronomer Eise Eisinga, the model has been facelifted in an eight-piece limited edition for Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), a retailer headquartered in Singapore. In contrast to the typical CVDK offerings with polished cases in steel or gold, the SHH edition has a frosted steel case with a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating that contrasts starkly with the turquoise-painted dial. The centrepiece of the dial is the planetarium display at six o’clock that tracks the real-time motion of six largest planets in the solar system. Initial thoughts Practically synonymous with astronomical complications, CVDK offers a wider variety of such complications than any other brand. Amongst its best-known is the planetarium, which has the advantage of being easy to understand since it’s basically a display of planets moving around the Sun. The key point to understand about the planetarium is its rate of motion – the display moves very, very slowly because it’s a real-time reflection of the planets in the solar system. They travel slowly around the Sun, at least relative to the scale of time on Earth, so the rings of the planetarium move at an imperceptible pace. The quickest orbit is Mercury’s, which still takes almost 90 days, or three month...

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Teddy Baldassarre

Sep 8, 2023

Flieger Watches: A Brief History and 14 Modern Fliegers from Entry-Lev

“Flieger” is the German word for “flier” - contrary to what you may have read elsewhere, it’s not the direct translation of “pilot” (that would actually be “pilot”) - and if you’re a traveler visiting Germany, it’s a helpful word to know, as it helps to understand other related terms: German airlines call their flights “flugs” and Germany calls its airports “flughafens.” Flieger is also the term that’s been widely adopted as shorthand for a specific style of pilot’s watch - one that traces its origins to World War II and which is still popular among an avid group of watch enthusiasts today. Flieger watches trace their origins to a type of timekeeper developed in the 1930s for German military aviators called the B-Uhr, short for Beobachtungs-Uhren, which translates to “observation watches.” B-Uhr watches, the first of which were property of the German government rather than the Luftwaffe pilots who wore them, adhered to strict specifications. Their cases were enormous for a wrist-borne watch at the time, at 55mm in diameter, and they accordingly housed movements that were originally made for pocket watches. These movements all incorporated the mission-critical hacking seconds function and were protected from magnetism by soft iron inner cages to ensure their functionality in an airplane cockpit. The dials were designed to be ultra-readable, with large white Arabic numerals on an expansive black background and flame-blued, luminou...

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Worn & Wound

Longines Olympian eBay Finds Sep 7, 2023

eBay Finds: Pulsar Computers, Baylor Chronographs, & Longines Olympian

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Baylor Chronograph Got some real gems for our readers this week, starting off with a gorgeous vintage Baylor chronograph. The 40mm wide steel case has nice thick lugs, and even though it looks like it has been polished in the past, it still looks solid. The dial is a beauty, jet black with three white chronograph sub dials that are ringed in silver. Nice steel baton hour and minute hands with lime round out the bold look. The crown looks to be original and was signed, but has some wear the logo has worn off. This one is powered by the famous Valjoux 72, the same movement used in the Rolex Newman Daytona chronograph. And this watch will go for a LOT less than a Daytona would cost! Seller states it runs and works properly and was serviced about five years ago. View auction here. Bulova Sea King This vintage Bulova Sea King has a great looks with some unique touches. The case is yellow gold plate, with no wearthrough that I could see. The gold dial is super clean, with a nice radial brushed finish and it has the little Sea King whale logo which I just love. The case looks unpolished with sharp edges and a cool engine turned bezel like the Rolex Thunderbird. This one comes with th...

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Worn & Wound

Brew x Worn & Wound Sep 7, 2023

[VIDEO] How To Use The Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator Limited Edition

Hello everyone. Just the other day, we had the distinct pleasure of launching a new limited edition collaboration, the Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator. A trio of quirky and colorful watches, they were designed to be different from your ordinary watch. As indicated in the name, these are chrono regulators, or regulator chronographs, to be more precise. What that means is that they don’t tell time with the standard arrangement of hour and minute hands at the center of the dial. Rather, the hour is read on a sub-dial, and minutes at the center. On top of this, there is also a standard chronograph function. The post [VIDEO] How To Use The Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Time+Tide

Tissot PRX Digital looks back Sep 2, 2023

The new Tissot PRX Digital looks back to a watch from 1977

New Tissot PRX Digital is inspired by a 1977 Tissot design Offered in both 35mm and 40mm sizes Backlit positive digital display with dual time zone, day-date, chronograph, timer, and alarm functions The Tissot PRX was a massive hit upon its introduction in 2021, and it has since expanded with various dial colours, metal finishes, … ContinuedThe post The new Tissot PRX Digital looks back to a watch from 1977 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

De Bethune Goes All Blue Again Sep 1, 2023

[Hands-On] De Bethune Goes All Blue (Again) with New Kind of Blue DB28XP

De Bethune is returning to their Kind of Blue concept within a new frame that combines the best of the DB28XP and the DB28 Kind of Blue to create the, you guessed it, DB28XP Kind of Blue. The new watch is trimmer than ever, and bluer than ever (insert Tobias joke here), and leans into the absolute best of DeBethune’s design language. It’s a smaller, thinner watch, but there’s still plenty of visual impact thanks to the wide frame that the lugs define. And as complex is it may look at a glance, at its core, there’s a very straightforward watch here.  The case and dial are made of thermally blued titanium with “microlight” pattern finish, and the result is stunning under any amount of light. It shifts between blue hues that pick up notes of purple at certain angles, and the finish creases a near liquid-metal appearance. All of this applied to the shapes and structures that De Bethune uses with the DB28 create an incredibly dramatic presence that will have you staring at the watch without a moment’s thought of the time. There are a set of hands reading off the hour and the minutes, but they feel secondary to the rest of the experience of this watch. De Bethune is using the thin, hand wound DB2115v12 movement with their own balance wheel, which is visible at the bottom of the dial, under the arch-like structure. The XP in the name denotes that this is an extra thin (plat) watch, and indeed it stands at just 8.5mm in thickness, but this isn’t a watch about the ...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe but there Aug 29, 2023

Clockmaker Jacob Curtis Debuts a Hand-Made Regulator

American clockmaker Jacob Curtis recently completed Regulator Clock No. 2, a precision wall clock that is eminently traditional in style, make, and materials. Based in Staunton, Virginia, the 33-year-old graduated from the Lititz Watch Technicum in 2017 and now runs his own watch and clock repair workshop. Built as a commission from a client, Regulator Clock No. 2 is the first of a pair of clocks, with the second of the pair, No. 3, currently a work in progress. The clocks are actually descended from the school clock Mr Curtis completed during watchmaking school (pictured above), but the basis of his creations lies further back in history. The dial of the recently-finished No. 2 Mr Curtis took inspiration from the precision regulator clocks made in Germany during the late 19th- and early 20th centuries by firms like Strasser & Rohde and Riefler. Considered amongst the finest clocks of the genre, these regulator clocks were refined by fuss-free aesthetics and extremely high quality mechanics, characteristics that Mr Curtis sought to recreate with his own clocks. Initial thoughts Clocks don’t have the same popular appeal as watches, so clockmaking remains a niche subject, despite the faddish popularity of watches. Established brands ranging from Chanel to Patek Philippe, but there the brand arguably matters as much as the timepiece. On the other hand, independent clockmakers are less known but some do impressively fine work. Although I only have photos to go on, Mr Curtis...

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Worn & Wound

Farer Launches Aug 24, 2023

Farer Launches the New Tonneau Collection, with Colors Inspired by European Cities

British brand Farer’s latest collection is an ode to form and aesthetics. Called the Tonneau Collection, the three watches each show that style doesn’t have to lack substance; but can, in fact, be a jumping-off point for great design and a reliable watch. As the name denotes, each watch within this collection has a barrel-shaped, rounded rectangle case, mixing clean lines and smooth curves all in one. At just 35mm, it’s a watch that balances comfort on the wrist while still having a covetable presence when worn, and this is due in part to the particular color combinations that Farer used for the collection. Each of the three color options embody the spirit and energy of a particular city: Milan, London, and Paris. Milan’s vibrant emerald fumé dial is a callback to green-glazed ceramics that traversed the ancient world and still has a timeless sophistication – just like Milan. The emerald green is paired with polished silver batons, a stainless steel case, and a rich brown St Venere leather strap to balance the urbanity of the Northern Italian city. London is a nod to the Mod era of the 1970’s, with Farer being inspired by two-handed watches of this time period. With clean lines and a ridged pattern around the face, one can appreciate the geometry that goes into a well-designed timepiece. The dominant colors (or should I say colours) of this watch are blue, white, and red, each perfectly in balance to not compete but complement one another. The London model is ...

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WatchAdvice

Tudor s Third Generation Black Aug 24, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor’s Third Generation Black Bay Heritage 41 Burgundy

After searching for months to try one on, I finally got my hands on the new Tudor Black Bay, and when told I was able to purchase it, I bought it! So how has it been after a month or so on the wrist? Why I Bought It Liked the 5-Link bracelet aestheticWell proportioned case and dialNew T-fit clasp The Ownership Reality Wears well due to the slimmer caseNo date still, slight bug bear of mineAluminium bezel insert is more prone to scratches than ceramic Overall rating: 9 /10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 The Back Story The Black Bay Burgundy is now in its third generation or iteration of the watch. Originally released in 2012 to much acclaim, the watch was a great homage to the Tudor and Rolex dive watches of the 50’s. 10 years ago, it was released with an ETA movement and had the now much sought after “smiley” dial, with the lines of text at the bottom being curved making it look as thought the watch was smiling at you. And maybe it was?! This was then updated and launched at Baselworld in 2016 with the Tudor inhouse movement, the MT5602 that was COSC, the smiley removed and now with three lines of text saying it is Chronometer Certified. This is still the case with the current black and blue bezel variants on the love it or hate it faux riveted oyster style bracelet (which was done to mimic the pieces of the 1950’s). All three generations of Black Bay, from the Smiley to the new Master Chronometer However, at Watches an...

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Worn & Wound

Aug 21, 2023

Hanhart’s Elegant Pioneer Silva is an Exercise in Refined Simplicity

Subtlety will never go out of style and the new Pioneer Silva, from Swiss-German watch brand Hanhart, exemplifies this. With its low-profile design and simple aesthetic, the Silva has a presence without ever veering into the ostentatious. It’s a watch that’s just as comfortable paired with a suit as with jeans and a t-shirt.  To accomplish this, Hanhart married modern design trends with classic elements. The watch itself is based on an archival reference, the Kal 36/39, which was reinterpreted for the modern age. Updates have included an uncluttered broad dial with an emphasis on sleek lines and readability. With that, there are still charming nods to Hanhart’s heritage models, including the white dots between numerals and the vintage Hanhart logo that’s recognized on a few Pioneer models.  The Pioneer Silva isn’t just a watch that looks good, but functions well, too. The Silva has an automatic movement that runs on a Sellita SW200, offering a 38-hour power reserve. The SW200 can be seen in action through the sapphire glass backing on the Silva, adding another level of eye candy to this watch. As mentioned, the case of this watch has a low profile, making it a great watch for everyday wear. Coming in at just 10mm in height, the 38mm stainless steel case has presence on the wrist without the bulk. With the option of either a black or white dial, and a black calfskin or steel bracelet, Hanhart has embraced the minimalism of this watch to show off the versatility ...

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Worn & Wound

Grand Seiko Introduces Aug 18, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces a Trio of US Exclusive References Inspired by the Katana Blade

With their latest set of US exclusive releases, Grand Seiko turns their attention to the katana, a Japanese sword, crafted from steel, that has become a symbol of Japanese culture across the world. There is a real art to creating a katana blade, and with these new watches, Grand Seiko is drawing inspiration from that centuries old process in much the same way they’ve built a cottage industry around watches that pull in aesthetic inspiration from the changing seasons and the natural world. What really links the katana to these watches though, and it’s something absent from the nature inspired dial designs, is a focus on craft. A katana blade is formed by heating iron sand in a special furnace called a tatara, with the melted sand becoming the steel known as tamahagane, a traditional Japanese material. Layers of metal are stacked individually, one on top of the other, heated, forged, folded, and cooled with water until the core of the sword takes shape. Eventually the blade is polished, taking on the familiar edge you’d expect, in a process that is not too dissimilar from putting a mirror shine on a Grand Seiko case, at least in the sense that both are done by hand by highly skilled craftspeople.  There are three releases in total in this mini collection inspired by the katana. The SBGA489, inspired by kawagane, the outer, sharp edge of a katana blade, has a black dial with a lightly stippled texture modeled after tamahagane steel. The SBGA491 features the same dial t...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Longines offers higher-spec version Aug 17, 2023

Tissot Expands Vintage-Inspired Offerings with the Heritage 1938

Tissot has gone decidedly retro with its latest pair, the Heritage 1938 and the Heritage Small Second 1938. The designs reinterpret the brand’s watches of the 1930s, but are presented in a modern-yet-compact 39 mm case containing COSC-certified ETA movements. Initial thoughts  Tissot has been enjoying success with the sporty PRX collection and the 1970s-style Sideral. However, it didn’t have many compelling dress watches in its catalogue until now. Therefore, this vintage-inspired pair captured my interest. Between the two, my preference is for the Heritage 1938, a straightforward three-hander. As one who appreciates classical proportions, I like the tasteful dial and compact 39 mm case. Having said that, “Chronometre” at six o’clock feels somewhat incongruous and could have been omitted altogether. At the same time, the small-seconds model has a date that three that just doesn’t look right. With a price of US$825 for the three-hander and US$1,050 for the small-seconds, the two are appropriately priced considering the movement and specs. Tissot’s sister company Longines offers higher-spec version of the same movements in its dress watches, but for more money. Vintage-inspired Tissot’s Heritage collection is all about reinterpreting historical timepieces. True to the name, the 1938 is reminiscent of the watches produced during the 1930s.  The 1938 is available in two variations: a three-hander and a small-seconds. The three-hander is available in either m...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Longines Hydroconquest Aug 14, 2023

The Longines Hydroconquest is Now a True GMT

Longines’ contemporary diver that’s been in the catalogue for over 16 years, the Hydroconquest now gets an upgrade with a new complication. The Hydroconquest GMT is the first model in the line-up with a dual time zone. In contrast to the bolder-looking time-only counterparts, the new GMT is accompanied by a pared-back, legible dial complemented with a unidirectional ceramic bezel and the brand’s latest automatic calibre. Initial thoughts The Hydroconquest tends to receive less attention compared to dive watches from other brands in this price range. In my view, this can be ascribed to its dial design that was bold with oversized numerals positioned at six, nine, and 12, yet not particularly distinctive. Longines probably realised this and smartly developed a new timepiece with a practical complication while tweaking the dial layout and getting rid of these oversized numerals. The shift from oversized numerals to more conventional indices is particularly notable on the green and brown dials where the colours underscore the carefully thought-out design. Purists might argue for eliminating the date window to further streamline the dial, though that would remove one of the key elements of a traditional GMT watch.  The Hydroconquest GMT is priced at US$2,675 on a NATO strap, with a rubber strap or steel bracelet available for an extra US$100. This is good value, particularly since the watch includes a bona fide GMT function with an independent local-time hour hand, all f...

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Worn & Wound

Longines Redesigns HydroConquest Aug 10, 2023

Longines Redesigns HydroConquest With New GMT Collection

Longines’ polarizing dive watch collection, the HydroConquest, has received a major overhaul from the Swatch Group brand, featuring a GMT compilation for the first time since 2007. This is still a true dive capable watch through and through, integrating the GMT component in a more subtle manner than you might imagine. As we’ve come to expect from Longines recently, this new collection is kicking off with a plethora of earth tone color schemes, and multiple strap options. There is some retro-inspiration happening here, but this one doesn’t feel like a throwback. If you weren’t fond of the 5 stars of the dial of the Zulu Time, this might be the one you’ve been waiting for.  The new HydroConquest is built within a steel case that measures 41mm in diameter and 12.9mm in thickness, and places a large rotating bezel assembly front and center. Rather than placing the 24 hour scale on the bezel, they’ve reserved this element for the watch’s diving ambitions, and it is graduated to the minutes as you might expect. The 24 hour scale is moved to the rehaut  at the perimeter of the dial, and is bi-color to separate the halves of the day. It’s a graceful implementation that retains enough functionality to be practical, though perhaps not quite as quick to read at a glance compared to other GMT watches. Moving into the dial things get a bit more interesting still, with some unusual but welcome decisions being made that help this watch stand on its own. First, the dial ...

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