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Time+Tide
Find out how bringing the Nautilus to life, excelling at Le Mans, and family brought the Laurent Ferrier brand to life.The post Laurent Ferrier, the watchmaker with three careers, from Patek Philippe to Le Mans driver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is not like other watches. At a glance, it clearly doesn’t look like them, but more importantly, it also works a bit differently too, featuring a first in watchmaking. To be clear, it still tells time with three hands, is operated by a crown, and has all of the movement components one expects to find on a watch, from a mainspring to an escapement. But it hides a very cool secret. Something that sets it apart. Hidden within is a little mechanism that helps it be more accurate. It’s not a complication, per say, as it doesn’t add any functions beyond time-telling, rather, it makes for a better watch. The Gravity Equal Force is one of a small handful of watches that attempts to address a fundamental issue with mechanical timepieces: variations in accuracy across their power reserves due to changing torque. As the power reserve diminishes, the torque, or force, decreases, the amplitude of the escapement falls, and the timekeeping becomes less accurate. Watchmakers have addressed this issue in various ways over the last few hundred years, which are often grouped together and referred to as “constant force” mechanisms. The Gravity Equal Force uses a simple, though uncommon, mechanism compared to typical “constant force” systems such as fuseé, chains, and remontoirs called a Geneva or Maltese cross. This mechanism prevents the watch mainspring from unwinding to the point where the torque and, thus, the accuracy really drop off. Ho...
SJX Watches
Whilst many dream of owning a watch from one of the great Swiss watchmakers, the price points at retail can be discouraging for those on a budget. So where does this leave the enthusiast who wants to dip his or her toes into the world of high-end watchmaking? A little digging into lesser-known models, which we present here. We’re not just discussing the most inexpensive watches from Rolex and the “Holy Trinity”, since that’s too obvious and mundane. So instead, we bring you five watches that are not necessarily the most affordable, but amongst the best value propositions. Majority of the five presented below are ancestors of current-production models, and one is a less popular recent launch. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, first-generation with meteorite dial Rolex is well known for dials in a variety of unique materials such as mineral stones and mother of pearl. Arguably more exotic, at least at the time of its launch, was meteorite. Whilst it’s not exactly known when the first meteorite dials were introduced by Rolex, the material has a constant in its catalogue for some two decades now. The latest meteorite additions to the line were the Daytona models of 2021, but the Daytona has in fact sported a meteorite dial before. In the early 2004 the material was combined with white gold for the first Daytona with a meteorite dial. It was available on a leather strap or a white gold bracelet, which is the version to go for. This first-generation Rolex ref. 1165...
Teddy Baldassarre
In recent years there has been a flurry of small watch brands that have succeeded in making a big impact on the watch-collector community and in the overall watch industry. With new watchmakers coming on the scene from almost every corner of the world, with styles ranging from vintage to traditional to avant-garde, which of these brands are worth paying attention to, and why? We asked two veteran watch-industry watchers and commentators (and regular fixtures on TeddyBaldassarre.com) - contributing writer Blake Buettner (former managing editor of Worn & Wound and founder of The Deep Track); and our Director of Editorial Content, Mark Bernardo (former senior editor of WatchTime magazine) - to name five small watch brands that are on their radar in 2025. Formex (Switzerland) Formex is, in many ways, an interesting brand and manufacturer. Its design DNA is quite bold and won’t be to everyone’s taste, but it’s matured quite nicely in recent years, though the true story of this brand goes deeper still. Formex designs and manufactures many of the components used in the case and bracelet, from a quick-adjustment system to a full case suspension (explained in this article), so there’s plenty to appreciate when it comes to mechanical ingenuities. On top of that, Formex is aggressively experimental when it comes to working with novel materials, offering rarities like forged carbon cases and stone dials across its lineup. What I love about Formex is the company...
Worn & Wound
Casio is celebrating 50 years of TOM’s Racing with the release of a new racing-inspired chronograph. The Casio Edifice Sospensione TOM’s 50th Anniversary builds on Casio’s long history of technical, multi-function watches to deliver a fittingly contemporary watch that also references half a century of racing history. TOM’s Racing, for those not overly invested in the world of JDM tuner cars or Super GT, is a longstanding aftermarket parts manufacturer and tuner, primarily focused on Toyota and Lexus models. TOM’s Racing has also been heavily involved in competitive racing since day one, often acting as a tuning partner for factory race teams across racing divisions, and they have served as an official tuning shop for Toyota since 1975, just a year after their founding. This latest release from Edifice draws inspiration from one of TOM’s most iconic cars, the KP47 Starlet, which helped launch the brand onto the racing scene, winning touring car series championships in 1975, 1976, and 1978. With its vibrant livery, the KP47 has become somewhat of a mascot for the race house over the last five decades, so there’s no more fitting car for Casio to choose as inspiration for this limited edition. Edifice often gets overlooked by enthusiasts in favor of Casio’s other brand known for technical, multi-function watches, but pay close attention in the real world and you’ll see Edifice watches everywhere. Affordable, capable, and dripping in multi-functional goodness,...
Time+Tide
We sat down with the Greek Freak just before he starts his Olympic campaign to find out how he manages his time.The post How Giannis Antetokounmpo uses his time to become an Olympian and NBA champion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Watch retail partners Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs spotted a niche for robust instrument watches in the late 1950s. Appealing to divers, pilots and soldiers, Ollech & Wajs produced impressively resilient tool watches but managed to keep prices in check by outsourcing production. Following Ollech’s death, Wajs renamed the brand OW and sold it in […]
Hodinkee
MoonSwatch enters its blue (Da Ba Dee) period.
Time+Tide
Though it's perhaps not as prevalent as with cars, watch modding is alive and well - and there are no mods like Seiko mods.The post The best ways to modify your Seiko to make it unique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Black tie may not be as common anymore, but when the time strikes, there are the best watches for the occasion.The post These are the watches you should be wearing with black tie appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Squale celebrates 40 years with the Marina Militare with the new limited-edition 1521.The post The Squale 1521 Marina Militare celebrates a duo of anniversaries appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It's not often we get something that feels new in the world of watchmaking, making the Horage Microreg development truly exciting.The post Horage just invented a new way to regulate your own watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
The Cartier Santos Dumont is a watch beautifully frozen in time – aesthetically and functionally true to the original, and it’s still as relevant as ever in 2024. What We Love Classic and timeless design Thin, elegant, and comfortable on the wrist Movement is smooth and appropriate for a dress piece What We Don’t Wears larger than anticipated (due to my small wrists) The pin buckle is finicky at times and hard to adjust A display case back would be great! Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Ah, Cartier: One of the pillars of modern watchmaking as we know it. Even though they are a High Jewellery Maison, their knowledge of horology is storied and epic, and through their achievements, sparked some of the most important innovations in the history of this beautiful art. I’ve known about Cartier and their reputation my whole life, but other than occasionally peering into their boutique and looking through the window, I always thought my opinion of them would never extend further than their occasional appearances in rom-coms, music, and other pop culture. The Cartier Santos Dumont Getting into the watch business gave me a whole new perspective on what I knew about the Parisian brand. Getting into Watch Advice also allowed me to take a massive deep dive into Cartier’s history, which naturally garnered a new respect for them. The Santos was the first ever wristwatch? How crazy is that? I won’t nerd you o...
Time+Tide
What is lug-to-lug, and why does it matter? Zach explores the idea, and gives some examples.The post Watches that prove lug-to-lug is the most important measurement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With proceeds directly benefitting the Reef Restoration Foundation, Oris once again finds itself in activist waters.The post The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV reminds us there’s still time to act appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Simplicity is nothing to be ashamed of, especially when it’s done right. And with the Peseux 7001, a movement that’s pretty much remained unchanged since it was launched over half a century ago, things have been done very right. This calibre is watchmaking reduced to the essence, yet it’s capable of great things! Despite its […]
Time+Tide
The Japanese movement powerhouse is well-known for its use in microbrands - but there's much more to it.The post The ultimate guide to Miyota’s history and most common movements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Named after its silver, textured dial, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” is a variant of the longstanding Sport Collection GMT with a sapphire-covered 24-hour bezel. It’s in two-tone green and white inspired by the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi at the end of winter, where the mountain is covered in lush greenery but topped by white snow. In typical Grand Seiko style, the steel case is finished with zaratsu flat polishing. It is equipped with a high-frequency cal. 9S86 running at 5 Hz that is a “true” GMT movement with an independently adjustable local time hour hand. The silvery white texture depicts snow on the ground in the mountain. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko often turns to nature for its dial colours and patterns, with many of its timepieces are named after elements of the nature world, the Spring Drive “Pink Snowflake”. In the case of the SBGJ277, it’s not just the dial, but also the green-and-silver livery of the watch that is “Snow Valley”. Grand Seiko rolls out such model variants and limited editions frequently, too often sometimes, but its offerings remain good value. This also applies to the SBGJ277, which is priced at US$6,800. It is a practical watch with an in-house movement and a genuine GMT function, along with a high level of fit and finish on almost every element; arguably only the bracelet needs to be upgraded, with a micro-adjustment clasp for instance. Featuring an offset crown at four o’clock ...
Monochrome
Hermès has a talent for infusing a light-hearted and contemporary touch into its beautifully crafted luxury products. As a brand that started life as a purveyor of the finest quality saddles and harnesses in Paris in the mid-19th century, equestrian motifs abound at Hermès. The latest Slim d’Hermès Pocket Mysterious Rider watch features a champlevé […]
Time+Tide
We reached out to our Instagram community once again to answer a long-looming question.The post All the bang, but not enough bucks. Here are the watches you can’t justify buying appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Since Doxa’s relaunch in 2001, there have been multiple iterations and limited editions of their classic dive watches. These include contemporary versions with various depth ratings, multiple dial colors, and new case materials. In May of last year, Doxa launched the Sub 300T Clive Cussler, paying tribute to the legendary author and explorer. This model has classic proportions and is made of distressed stainless steel. It has a matching distressed beige dial with a compass rose motif at its center. The case back features inscriptions, specifically the names of shipwrecks and other historical artifacts discovered or surveyed by NUMA, the non-profit agency founded by Cussler. New for 2024, Doxa is releasing the SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler edition as a follow up. Sharkhunter is the name they use to identify their black-dialed dive watches. This watch has the same wonderful details as the previous Clive Cussler homage but with, you guessed it, a black dial. The case is 42.5mm in diameter and only 44.5mm from lug to lug, with a thickness of 14mm. Its trademark cushion case makes this large watch suitable for nearly any wrist size. The Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 powers the watch, which beats at 4hz and has a power reserve of 38 hours. It is also water-resistant to 300 meters, as all SUB 300T’s should be. The Clive Cussler connection began almost 50 years ago when he took a $400-per-month gig at a dive shop after quitting his job as a creative director at an advertisin...
Time+Tide
We've seen tourbillons and minute repeaters aplenty - these watches sport some truly unique mechanical oddities.The post From death prediction to sunrise times, these are the most unique watch complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
In 1982, Walt Disney World in Lake Buena Vista, Florida opened its EPCOT Center theme park to the public. Its original concept was to create a real, utopian city based on modern transportation as well as economic and architectural innovations, but after Walt’s death in 1966, the plans were simplified. Instead, EPCOT became EPCOT Center––a theme park honoring the societal modernizations Walt was fascinated with in a more practical (and marketable) manner. To commemorate the park’s opening, Disney and its partners produced various forms of merchandise and collectibles including coins, keychains, mugs, hats, shirts, and, of course, wristwatches. This Bradley EPCOT Center watch exists as both a unique piece of Disneyana and horological history when studying the creation and popularity of Disney-themed wristwatches. Why settle for a Mickey Mouse watch when you can transport your wrist straight back to 1982? A Brief Overview of Disney Watches Disney’s intellectual properties have adorned all types of trinkets, souvenirs, and products since the company’s founding in 1923. Regarding wristwatches, however, Ingersoll in 1933––then a subsidiary of the Waterbury Clock Company (or Timex as they’re known today)––created the first Mickey Mouse timepiece, sparking the seemingly-never-ending popularity of Disney-themed watches among consumers. In 1971, Bradley Time Division––then a subsidiary of Elgin––took over the bulk of production from Ingersoll. Afterwa...
Time+Tide
Your 101 guide to keeping your bronze watch clean and shiny or green and grimey.The post How to care for your bronze watch, from forcing patina to citric acid baths appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin will soon stage From Geometry to Artistry in Singapore, an exhibition to showcase the brand’s latest timepieces launched Watches & Wonders 2024, as well as an interactive kinetic artwork by design studio Lanzavecchia + Wai. According to Vacheron Constantin, the new timepieces for 2024, ranging from the Traditionnelle to the Overseas, demonstrate artistry inspired by geometric shapes, hence the exhibition’s title, From Geometry to Artistry. The exhibition will take place in 48 Bukit Pasoh from July 22-28, 2024. It’s open to the public, but registration online is required. This year’s Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time with a green dial. La Bonsaï, the kinetic artwork by Lanzavecchia + Wai, was created in response reaction to exhibition’s theme. La Bonsaï is a mechanical bonsai-planétaire that goes into motion when guests touch the jewel-like plant. Each branch of the artwork is inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s signature finishes, components, and movements, including a large blue disc on the trunk of the bonsai references the sunburst, satin-finish dial of the Patrimony, as well as a sphere on the base of the plate that orbits the trunk, a nod to the moon phase display. La Bonsaï, 2024 by Lanzavecchia + Wai. From Geometry to Artistry Open daily to the public July 22-July 28, 2024 2:00 pm-9:00 pm 48 Bukit Pasoh Road Singapore 089859 For registration, visit vacheron-constantin.com.
Deployant
VC brings the novelties from Watches & Wonders to Singapore in an interesting exhibition. We were at themedia preview. Here is our event guide.
Time+Tide
The Swedish micro-brand has refined its diver offering in this Shellback V2 with its charismatic sandwich dial and respectable specs.The post The Tusenö Shellback V2 is a microbrand full package diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
At Swedish watch brand Bravur, they’re really into cycling, and that craziness has materialized in plenty of watches with a cycling theme. The new Bravur La Grande Boucle IV is a steel chronograph in the long-running Grand Tour Chronograph collection. This chronograph subtly tries to capture the spirit of the Tour de France, nicknamed La […] Visit This Monday Is A Rest Day In The Tour De France - Time To Check Out The Bravur La Grande Boucle IV to read the full article.
Time+Tide
A new Clive Cussler Doxa limited edition arises from the depths of the ocean abyss. Except not really - but it does look like it!The post Doxa expands its treasure trove with the SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In this article, we attempt to liven up your watch collection with a selection of 6 interesting and modestly-priced timepieces.
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