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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

3,593 articles · 26 videos found · page 17 of 121

Introducing: The Czapek Promenade With A White, Ivory, Or Pink Plissé Dial Fratello
Czapek Promenade Feb 11, 2025

Introducing: The Czapek Promenade With A White, Ivory, Or Pink Plissé Dial

Last year, Czapek introduced the new Promenade collection. Its design combines influences from the brand’s Quai des Bergues and Antarctique lines. Apart from the hollowed-out lugs and mid-case, the watches look quite classic. However, the peculiar dial designs are the real stars of the Promenade collection. The same goes for the newly introduced Promenade Plissé, […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Promenade With A White, Ivory, Or Pink Plissé Dial to read the full article.

Haute-Rive Honoris 1 Reviewed by Tim Mosso: Impressive 1,000-hour Power Reserve plus Flying Tourbillon Quill & Pad
Oris 1 Reviewed Jan 4, 2025

Haute-Rive Honoris 1 Reviewed by Tim Mosso: Impressive 1,000-hour Power Reserve plus Flying Tourbillon

While Tim Mosso has seen watches with long power reserves, huge power reserves, and absurd power reserves, the result always looked as outwardly awkward as it was technically adept. Every watch he has encountered with a power reserve beyond ten days was massive. But the Haute-Rive Honoris 1 is a compact marvel through clever design.

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Escale Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Dec 19, 2024

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Escale Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel

As this year is coming to a close, it becomes apparent that a leitmotif of 2024 were artisanal dials ranging from hand-engraved, enamelled or even silk-inlaid. Louis Vuitton now takes its turn with the Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel, a simple, three-hand watch endowed with a complex and impressive dial made by hand. Initial thoughts Perhaps reflecting Louis Vuitton’s emphasis on haute horlogerie and independent watchmaking, the new Escale feels more like something from an independent maker, rather than a timepiece made by a luxury giant. This kind of artisan-oriented creation reiterates Louis Vuitton’s focus on horological craft, which is also the motivation behind the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. The deep blue sector-style dial feels organic thanks to the radial guilloché under translucent enamel. Beyond the artisanal nature of the dial, the design is thoughtful, with its proportions giving the face a classical composition. The brushed chapter ring with milled dots for markers evokes the minute tracks found in 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The classical styling is combined with Louis Vuitton’s own design cues like the faux rivets on the case band), which makes for a surprisingly pleasant combination.   A dial crafted by four artisans The complexity of the dial stems from different finishing techniques being combined to produce a seemingly simple design with a mesmerising effect. Each dial is crafted by four artisans,...

The New Type 9 is the Smallest and Most Affordable Ressence Yet Worn & Wound
Ressence Yet Dec 18, 2024

The New Type 9 is the Smallest and Most Affordable Ressence Yet

A few weeks ago we told you about the Ressence Type 8 Indigo, a high craft variation on the most simple and accessible Ressence model. It turns out that the Type 8 only held the distinction of being the brand’s entry level timepiece for a few days after the launch of the Indigo, as the new Type 9 which the brand debuted mere hours later now represents the cleanest point of entry to the brand. The Type 9 has much of the same minimalist appeal as the Type 8 (the display is as straightforward as Ressence gets and not materially different from the Type 8) but the new watch offers a significant change to the case, and should give enthusiasts and collectors with a smaller wrist something to consider if they’ve ever balked at a Ressence for being a little too big.  This is the smallest Ressence yet, coming in at 39mm in diameter in titanium. Unlike the Type 8, a 43mm watch with a flying saucer like shape, the Type 9 is more traditional and has small, short lugs to which a strap is mounted at either end of the case. The real space saving here comes from the addition of a bezel which acts as a minute track, whereas in other Ressence designs the outer minute track is simply at the dial’s perimeter. This tightens things up considerably, and also, in my opinion, offers a little more visual interest. With the minute track now outboard of the dial, options begin to open up with respect to finishing, color, materials, and so forth. The execution here isn’t particularly adventuro...

Brellum Introduces a Smaller Version of their Duobox Chronograph Worn & Wound
Nov 15, 2024

Brellum Introduces a Smaller Version of their Duobox Chronograph

Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker, founded Brellum in 2017. Unlike many new brands, they did not pursue crowdfunding but adopted a more traditional approach. The first model released by Brellum was the Duobox, which was covered by Worn & Wound here. Since then, we have reported on several other releases by the brand. However, despite this coverage and similar attention from other outlets, Brellum does not appear to have the same visibility or market presence as many competitors. That is the impression I have, at least. Since 2017, they have quietly expanded into multiple product lines, exhibiting strong and distinctive brand coherence. They have successfully established their brand identity in such a way that their models are instantly recognizable as Brellum watches. In an industry as prolific, diverse, and prone to imitation as ours, achieving a high level of brand consistency is more challenging than one might expect, particularly if your designs are conservative. However, their watches do possess some flair, and all feature high-grade chronometer-certified movements. For 2024, Brellum is introducing a smaller version of their most popular model, the Duobox, along with a new chronograph movement in their collection. Introducing the Duobox 39 Chronometer Limited Edition. This watch is essentially a 39mm version featuring subdials at the 3, 6, and 9 positions. Many consider this arrangement more aesthetically pleasing than the standard ETA/VJ7750 dial layo...

Citizen’s Latest “The Citizen” Celebrates their 100th Anniversary with the Subtle Use of Precious Metals Worn & Wound
Citizen s Latest “The Citizen” Nov 4, 2024

Citizen’s Latest “The Citizen” Celebrates their 100th Anniversary with the Subtle Use of Precious Metals

Many of us know Citizen as a brand that creates affordable and (mostly) quartz powered watches. Often packed with a multitude of complications, in large case sizes, and complex layouts. But there’s another side to the brand as well, one that takes full advantage of the many resources at their disposal to create drool worthy haute horlogerie pieces. Many of their offerings from this high-end sector are limited in production, and they feature some of the most sought after watchmaking craftsmanship desired by enthusiasts and collectors alike.  Today we’re taking a look at one of these special offerings which has just been announced in a limited batch of 160 pieces worldwide to celebrate Citizen’s 100th anniversary. This is part of Citizen’s longstanding series of “The Citizen” watches, highlighting the brand’s significant craft accomplishments and their highest end watchmaking. Watches with “The Citizen” designation are flagships for the brand, and often feature intricate case and dial finishing, or uncommon, high-spec movements. Just one quick glance of the press images releases endorphins for most collectors. The dial has an air of whimsy and artistry with its “iceberg” inspired finish, and is clean and simple in layout, with thin applied baton markers. The rather austere design language on display here allows the communication of simplicity to dominate the aura of the watch instead of fixating on one sole function or spec, such as an eye catching tou...

Introducing - The Czapek Antarctique for GMT Milano Edition Monochrome
Czapek Antarctique Oct 4, 2024

Introducing - The Czapek Antarctique for GMT Milano Edition

In 2020, five years after reviving the name of a distinguished 19th-century Geneva-based Czech-born Polish watchmaker with the launch of the Quai des Bergues collection, Czapek introduced its take on the popular genre of steel sports watches with an integrated bracelet, the Antarctique, powered by the brand’s first in-house movement. The model quickly gained well-deserved […]

REVIEW: Hands On With The M.A.D.1 S WatchAdvice
MB&F; Sep 25, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The M.A.D.1 S

A revolution in affordable Haute Horlogerie with the latest M.A.D.1S. What We Love: Affordable haute horology timepiece The three-blade rotor design is well thought out, with it becoming even more fun with lume activated! Despite its thickness, the timepiece sits very well on the wrist thanks to the flat case back. What We Don’t: The hour time barrel is read right to left as it spins counter-clockwise when it should be read left to right The racing-inspired textile leather strap lacks adjustment for slim wrists. Lack of secondary strap choices from M.A.D Editions! Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The M.A.D.1S. is one of the best, if not the best, horological “fun” pieces that are available on the market right now. There are not too many other watches in the luxury world of horology that offer such an amusing timepiece that gets everyone talking, even non-watchgoers! The M.A.D 1 has a relatively short-lived history, as it was first released in June 2021; however, since then, it has been met with an overwhelming reception, giving more and more incentive for the M.A.D. Editions brand to keep creating more innovative, affordable entertainment timepieces! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) The brand new 2024 M.A.D.1S. models To understand how M.A.D.1 first came about, we need to look at how the brand M.A.D Edition started and how its big sister brand, MB&F;, played a maj...

MIH Marks 50 Years with the Gaïa III and Gaïa 50th Anniversary SJX Watches
Louis Erard Excellence Sep 19, 2024

MIH Marks 50 Years with the Gaïa III and Gaïa 50th Anniversary

Originally launched in 2019 as a fundraising exercise for the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), the Gaïa wristwatch is returning for the museum’s 50th anniversary this year. The MIH is marking the occasion with a pair of watches, the Gaïa Series III and Gaïa 50th Anniversary, both limited editions that will help fund restoration work and promotional activities at the museum. The two watches share the unique design of earlier Gaïa editions, but now the dials are engraved. Notably, the Gaïa 50th Anniversary (pictured above) has a guilloche dial that’s hand made by Georges Brodbeck, a veteran guillocheur whose workshop was acquired by Voutilainen two years ago. The Gaïa Series III with a laser engraved dial Initial thoughts As with the earlier Gaïa watches, the new pair are a great way to support one of Switzerland’s leading watch and clock museums. But the Gaïa is not just a charity project, it is an appealing and well-priced watch. The price has risen slightly, from CHF2,900 for the original to CHF3,400 for the Gaïa III, but the increase is modest relative to the watch industry as a whole, and the watch remains a value buy. The Gaïa anniversary is twice the price at over CHF5,000, but still value considering the hand-made guilloche dial. It’s one of the handful of watches in this price range with a traditional engine-turned dial, plus it has an unusual time display and case. The closest comparison is the Louis Erard Excellence that is less expensi...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New Book on the Rolex Submariner, the Salem’s Lot Trailer, and Detecting Alien Space Ships Worn & Wound
Rolex Submariner Sep 14, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New Book on the Rolex Submariner, the Salem’s Lot Trailer, and Detecting Alien Space Ships

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The Rolex Submariner Book As reported by GQ and many others, Rolex is about to release what would appear to be the definitive book on the Submariner, a watch that most would agree is one of the most consequential of all time. As a dive watch, a luxury item, and a design object, the Submariner, in many ways, stands alone, and the coffee table book written by industry veteran Nicholas Foulkes promises to delve into the history of the watch in an authoritative way. There have, of course, been many books on Rolex and the brand’s most important watches, but Oyster Perpetual Submariner – The Watch That Unlocked the Deep is the first to be authorized by the brand. It stands to reason that Foulkes was given access to historical materials not available to others who have attempted to chronicle the Submariner’s history.  Salem’s Lot Comes to Max The full trailer for the highly anticipated Salem’s Lot adaptation hit the internet this week, and it has Stephen King fans buzzing. Based on King’s acclaimed second novel, Salem’s Lot is a vampire story about a writer returning to his q...

Opinion: the Moser x Studio Underd0g Collab Was Great - the Reaction from the Watch Community Was Disappointing Worn & Wound
H. Moser Sep 9, 2024

Opinion: the Moser x Studio Underd0g Collab Was Great - the Reaction from the Watch Community Was Disappointing

Without fail, there’s a moment at big industry events when you realize you’re in a bubble. At every Watches & Wonders I’ve attended, and now following my first Geneva Watch Days, there’s been a new release that has “worked” in the room among the press and other members of the community who have actually seen it, but has been less warmly received (in certain quarters) by those back home. I felt this acutely when looking at the latest from H. Moser, a collaboration with Studio Underd0g that, when I saw the press release ahead of leaving for Switzerland, I was certain would be the enthusiast community’s favorite walking away. And while I think overall you’d have to admit the watch was widely praised from all sides, there was a surprising chorus of supposed Studio Underd0g fans who didn’t take to it as kindly.  When I was pointed toward heated Instagram comment threads by friends and colleagues days after seeing the watches I was genuinely surprised. When you’re at an event like this, you’re really kind of on your own little watch industry planet. I find that there’s simply not enough time to monitor reactions to everything with a busy meeting schedule and almost no down time. It’s kind of nice, honestly, to be consumed by a single thing for a short period of time. It has a cleansing effect. But it means I’m not idly scrolling through Instagram, so the peanut gallery commentary on all the new releases was lost on me.  To summarize, the reactions i...

The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Aug 29, 2024

The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn

Well, it wouldn’t be Geneva Watch Days without some wild new release from Massena LAB. Last year, the well-known design house partnered with Sylvain Pinaud to offer up a take on Pinaud’s modern marvel of a chronograph. This year, they’re looking back, joining with a brand new independent watchmaker making their debut at Geneva Watch Days, Albishorn, to give us something a little different. Albishorn, as I said, is a brand new indie brand with a unique focus - creating what they call “imaginary vintage” watches that bend watchmaking history to create something a little different. Their inaugural release, produced in partnership with Massena LAB, imagines a hypothetical late 1930s regatta chronograph (or regatta timer if you prefer), inspired by Le Bol d’Or Mirabaud - the world’s largest inland lake regatta, first run in 1939 on Lac Léman. A quick glance at the new Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph will leave vintage heads with a clear sense of origin. The new watch clearly pulls design language from Rolex’s iconic Zerographe chronographs, the early predecessor to now iconic watches like the Daytona. The watch’s dial layout is also reminiscent of World War II multi-scale chronographs, and the mono-pusher layout certainly invokes a vintage charm. Obviously, this is not a genuine vintage watch, and certain details of the Maxigraph betray that. The execution feels quite modern, with sharply machined elements like the stark red pusher on the case flank, mu...

MB&F; and L’Epee 1839 Introduce Steampunk Airship Clock SJX Watches
MB&F; Aug 28, 2024

MB&F; and L’Epee 1839 Introduce Steampunk Airship Clock

MB&F;’s sculptural clocks made by L’Epee 1839 have ranged from sci-fi spiders to robots. And now the pair have debuted their most elaborate and expensive desk clock to date, the Albatross. Inspired by the airship of the same name in the Jules Verne novel Robur the Conqueror, the steampunk Albatross does more than tell the time. The clock also incorporates an hourstriker as well as a propellor automaton that activates alongside the hourstriker. Initial thoughts The Albatross is more interesting mechanically than MB&F;’s past collaborations with L’Epee, which were mostly about the form of the clock. This, on the other hand, incorporates mechanics into the design with the propeller automaton linked to the hourstriker. Coupled with the chiming and spinning propellors, the sheer size – 60 cm high and some 17 kg – makes the Albatross a truly impressive object. But the Albatross costs about CHF120,000 before taxes, which is a big number even considering its complexity. While the impressive mechanics and careful construction of the clock arguably justify the price, the price tag puts it in competition with a lot of compelling watches, at least for a watch collector. For someone looking for an impressive desktop object or the ultimate in home decor, this has arguably less competition. Jules Verne’s airship Made of steel, brass, and aluminium, the Albatross contains two separate movements. The first is a twin barrel, eight-day movement for the timekeeping and hourstriker...

Heinrich is the Latest Brand to Experiment with Stone Dials Worn & Wound
Formex Fears Aug 12, 2024

Heinrich is the Latest Brand to Experiment with Stone Dials

Don’t look now, but it really does feel like stone dials are having a moment in the enthusiast watch space. This, I have to admit, is one of the most unlikely trends in our hobby recently, but I’m very much here for it. For a long time, stone dials were thought of by many as something rather cheesy, a bit of 1980s kitsch that time had passed by. But it only takes seeing one really nice stone dial to change your mind. Brands like Formex, Fears, and Nivada have all recently released stone dials in watches that would traditionally be defined as more sport oriented, and this mixing of formality with something more casual is also the basis for much of the appeal. The latest watches to pop up in this category come from Heinrich, a brand we’ve covered several times before, who have just unveiled a pair of stone dialed sports watches that fit right into the recent resurgence in this niche category.  The new watches are part of the Helicoprion line, which Brad Homes recently reviewed here. This platform, it seems, works well as a canvas for experimentation, as the watch that Brad looked at featured an unusual “Buzzsaw” pattern dial. The Helicoprion is a capable and well made sports watch that comes in at 40mm in diameter and measures a little over 47mm from lug to lug. Besides the dial, its defining feature is the brushed bezel with visible screws, evoking a very specific style of sports watch from the 1970s. Heinrich has built much of its reputation on the quality of th...

Introducing - The Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll with a Mesmerising Chrysocolla Dial Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll Jul 10, 2024

Introducing - The Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll with a Mesmerising Chrysocolla Dial

Ulysse Nardin has always been associated with the sea, from its early days as a purveyor of precision marine chronometers to its current nautical-inspired collection, which includes classical references like the Marine Torpilleur or more contemporary, high-performance Divers. Offered in three case sizes, the more compact 39mm model returns with a stunning mottled neon blue […]

IAMWATCH in Singapore, an Independent Watchmaking-Centric Event SJX Watches
Urwerk Florian Bédat Jul 5, 2024

IAMWATCH in Singapore, an Independent Watchmaking-Centric Event

Singapore retailer The Hour Glass is staging IAMWATCH over four days in October 2024. The event is conceived as a gathering for watch enthusiasts with notable independent watchmakers in attendance, including Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, Florian Bédat and Gaël Petermann, Kari Voutilainen, Raúl Pagès, and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia. IAMWATCH will serve as a platform for face-to-face engagement between watch enthusiasts and noted industry personalities like Aurel Bacs, Jean Arnault, Maximilian Büsser, and Pierre Biver, providing enthusiasts opportunities to connect and learn. The event includes presentations, lectures, and fireside chats with more than 40 industry insiders. IAMWATCH will be held at the Singapore Edition hotel. Admission is free and open to the public daily October 18-20, from 11 am-8 pm, however, registration is required and it can be done online at Iamwatch.com.  

First Look - New High-End Breguet Marine Chronograph 5529 & Dame 9518 Monochrome
Breguet Marine Chronograph 5529 & May 29, 2024

First Look - New High-End Breguet Marine Chronograph 5529 & Dame 9518

The words ‘contemporary’ and ‘sporty’ are hard to apply to Breguet, but barring the aviation-inspired Type 20, the Marine collection is as close as you’ll get to a luxury sports watch collection inspired by the brand’s legitimate and longstanding maritime ties. Introduced in 1990 and refreshed over the decades, Breguet’s sporty Marine collection welcomes two […]

Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron Fratello
May 23, 2024

Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron

Dive watches are the go-to for many watch collectors. They outstrip the standard “tool watch” moniker with, usually, enhanced specs, such as better water resistance. As a result, dive watches are usually aimed at those professionals for whom they are designed. You know, divers. These days, this results in an instantly recognizable aesthetic that is […] Visit Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron to read the full article.

Hands-on - The Patek Philippe 5330G World Time Date, A New Generation of the Brand’s Iconic Traveller’s Watch Monochrome
Patek Philippe 5330G World Time Date Apr 26, 2024

Hands-on - The Patek Philippe 5330G World Time Date, A New Generation of the Brand’s Iconic Traveller’s Watch

Patek Philippe’s World Time models have remained a timeless presence for over three-quarters of a century. Intriguingly, the concept and presentation have undergone little change since introducing the “cleverly designed watch for men with international interests,” as touted in an early advertisement for World Time 1415. Since the inception of the World Time complication, Patek […]

A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Collection Apr 9, 2024

A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection

For IWC, 2024 is the year of the Portugieser. The collection receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42 (previously known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronograph, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. In addition, IWC has introduced an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, however, is without question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cover in a separate story. With the facelift, IWC has refined its core collection with subtle nips and tucks, including slimmer cases, while retaining the familiar design. The revamp includes new liveries including metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne. The champagne finish, known as “Dune” Initial thoughts I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Portugieser collection, which is perhaps the only collection of dress watches of any brand where the (over)sizing is a feature rather than a drawback. The new collection is no exception; each piece is attractive and several models have received thoughtful technical upgrades, including an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials are not merely new colours, but sport detailed finishing and thoughtful details. Of course, there’s little in the way of true novelty in the collection outside of the Eternal Calendar that is a rare complication executed smartly but for an hard-to-believe six-figure price. Even the Tourbillo...

Watch Lume 101: The Complete History and Primer on Reading Time in the Teddy Baldassarre
Ming Mar 21, 2024

Watch Lume 101: The Complete History and Primer on Reading Time in the

Luminous material on watch dials - referred to in shorthand as “lume” by both industry insiders and avid enthusiasts - is an element taken for granted nowadays. It can be said without hyperbole that a watch dial without lume is a stylistic outlier in this modern era, but this wasn’t always the case. Discerning the time in the dark presented a major problem for watchmakers in the early days before the widespread use of electricity in homes, and at first the only solution that could be offered was an audible rather than visual one: watches that chimed the time on demand, like minute repeaters and sonneries. Only a handful of wealthy individuals could afford these highly complicated timepieces, however, so a more widely accessible technology was needed as wristwatches spread to the general populace. Around the dawn of the 20th Century, watchmakers turned their attention to making watch dials that could be read in the dark, paving the way for the luminous materials that are still used commonly today. The road to perfecting the technology, however, would not be easy, and at times would even be dangerous. Radium The first material applied to watch dials for nighttime luminescence was a paint made from radium with zinc sulfide, which, thanks to radium’s half-life of 1,600 years, offered a long-lasting glow during that period before dimming - the catch being that radium, as its name implies, is radioactive. One of its earliest uses can be traced to a pioneer of devel...

First Look - The Time-and-Date Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Mar 7, 2024

First Look - The Time-and-Date Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm

While there have been time-and-date and triple calendar versions since the mid-1990s, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore or ROO, has always been primarily known as a chronograph watch. It was actually designed as such when it launched in 1993. In modern days, non-chronograph ROO watches were mostly known as the Diver version, which was […]

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet ref 5516 which was Feb 27, 2024

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today

As we approach the leap day of February 29, the unofficial day of commemoration for perpetual calendar owners, it’s worth considering the technical advances in perpetual calendar movements of the past 20 years. The perpetual calendar is, and has always been, a staple of haute horlogerie. But for most of its history, the technology remained largely stagnant. It wasn’t until the beginning of the modern era, in the 1980s when Swiss watchmaking was regrouping after the Quartz Crisis, that a new generation of watchmakers revisited this complication in earnest. In particular, they sought to address fundamental weaknesses in the way traditional perpetual calendar designs switch from one date to the next. The quintessential perpetual calendar layout, here in the first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with a leap year indicator, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5516, which was produced in the late 1950s One of the more recent – and most notable – efforts at reimagining the complication came from Stephen McDonnell, who developed the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual. According to Mr McDonnell, the traditional approach to the perpetual calendar was a flawed premise. “For decades in the Swiss watch industry, and even until the present day, it has been accepted and expected that [perpetual calendar] watches would often be damaged by owners while trying to correct them,” explains Mr McDonnell, “This was seen simply as an unavoidable factor of [perpetual calendar] owner...

Tudor Predictions 2024 - The Potential Return of the Tudor Oysterdate Big Block Chronograph Monochrome
Tudor Predictions 2024 – Feb 13, 2024

Tudor Predictions 2024 - The Potential Return of the Tudor Oysterdate Big Block Chronograph

A few days ago, the MONOCHROME team delivered our yearly forecast of potential launches for the 2024 Rolex Collection. As always, we try our best to guess what the Crown will be presenting at the watch industry’s largest fair, Watches and Wonders. While trying to imagine and design these potential Rolex models, we also started […]

Lookbook: Keeping It Classic with the Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon Worn & Wound
Brew Metric Black & Gold Jan 11, 2024

Lookbook: Keeping It Classic with the Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon

The funny thing about classic designs and the good old days is that you often recognize them only once they are over-when you are no longer experiencing them in the present. But how remarkable would it be to own and wear something knowing that it was made precisely for its time but with potential as a future classic? The Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon chronograph seeks to accomplish just that: to be a watch designed for this very moment but distinctive enough to be recognized for generations to come. As the latest evolution of the Metric chronograph, the Black & Gold is at once evocative and alluring. The Metric is perhaps Brew’s most famous design with its off-centered sub-dials and curvaceous case and bracelet. The elapsed seconds dial at ten o’clock curiously marks the optimal window of time to extract the perfect espresso shot, which is just the kind of anachronism and modern charm that has come to define Brew as a whole. The stealthy 36mm case and bracelet, subtle touches of carbon along the edge of the dial, and gold accents all combine to make a beautiful watch that is just different enough from the mainstream today. In other words, it just might be a future classic. The post Lookbook: Keeping It Classic with the Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Citizen Drops a Pair of Godzilla Themed Ecozillas for the 70th Anniversary of the King of the Monsters Worn & Wound
Citizen Drops Jan 9, 2024

Citizen Drops a Pair of Godzilla Themed Ecozillas for the 70th Anniversary of the King of the Monsters

Godzilla, as he does from time to time, is having a moment. Godzilla Minus One was an unexpected hit in theaters at the end of last year, and as the first Godzilla film from Toho Co. studios to break through in America in years, it has some fans discovering a different side of the King of the Monsters. The Toho films, going back decades to the original Godzilla movies of the 1950s, have generally been a little more character driven and subtle than the bombastic, special effects laden American films. And a new Godzilla themed watch from Citizen is similarly subtle. It doesn’t beat you over the head (or…breathe fire at you) with Godzilla references, but it’s still clearly inspired by the iconic movie monster.  It makes perfect sense for the Citizen Eco-Drive Professional Diver 300 to be the platform for a new Godzilla watch – the dive watch has long been known as the “Ecozilla” to collectors, and Citizen is happy to play up the connection. The watch arrives in a year that’s important to both Godzilla and Citizen, as each has a milestone birthday to celebrate: Godzilla turns 70, and Citizen marks the 100th anniversary of their first watch this year.  The dial and bezel assembly of the new Godzilla piece feature a camo pattern that’s meant to recall the scales of Godzilla’s skin, and you’ll also find very small renditions of Godzilla within the pattern itself. There are two dial variants being offered, one in a classic black and another in a more in-your-...