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Living With: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Jan 21, 2021

Living With: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue

H. Moser & Cie. launched the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph almost exactly a year ago with a launch edition of a 100 pieces that sold out quickly. I liked the watch when I first saw it in late 2019. Both its design and execution were done well, and the movement is special. Unlike many of its peers, the Streamliner is an original in a segment dominated by derivative watches. So when I was offered the chance to borrow the prototype for a few days – off the wrist of Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, who had been wearing it skiing – it was an easy yes. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of the 1970s and 1980s sports watches – but not the obvious ones like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – the Streamliner is one of the few integrated-bracelet sports watches that isn’t derivative, which is a feat in itself. The “Funky Blue” version has exactly the same design and movement, but with a new dial in a graduated, metallic blue that’s even more striking. I do, however, miss the vertically-brushed finish on the dial of the launch edition, which was uncommon amongst Moser watches. The subtle, radially-brushed finish of the Funky Blue dial Aesthetic aside, a key part of its appeal lies in the HMC 902 movement, a calibre developed by Geneva specialist Agenhor. Not only is the construction clever, it is also good looking, despite its modern aesthetics. Traditionally-styled chronograph movements like the L951.1 of the Datograph are usually the most attractive, but the HMC 902 is...

Introducing the Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Revolution
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Dec 1, 2020

Introducing the Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

Revolution speaks with Robert-Jan Broer of fratellowatches.com, on the launch of their limited edition watch made in partnership with Oris. The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is a 40mm bronze cased rendition of the watch with an oxblood dial that features rose gold colored hands and gilt print. The 300-piece limited edition will be sold exclusively through https://shop.fratello.com/ priced at €1,950

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Nov 17, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue

Unveiled just earlier this year, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is compelling inside and out – an uncommon, cushion-shaped “bullhead” case with an integrated bracelet, containing the ingenious, well-regarded Agenhor AgenGraphe movement. A limited run of just 100 watches, the launch-edition Streamliner only recently clinched the Chronograph Watch Prize at this year’s Grand Prix de Horlogerie de Geneve, making it the perfect time to launch of the regular-production variant, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue. Initial thoughts Original and appealing in its design, the Streamliner was well-received commercially and critically, making the regular-production version inevitable. Almost identical to the original version, the new version differs only in its dial, which is a metallic blue with a fashionable smoked finish. Notably, the blue dial has a radial, brushed finish, instead of the vertical, linear brushing of the launch edition. While the blue dial is quintessential Moser in colour and style, it isn’t as unique as the pale grey dial on the launch edition – which is a good thing, as it helps differentiate the limited-edition original. That said, the blue dial is attractive – and more striking – with the graduated, fume finish giving it more depth than the typical integrated-bracelet sports watch. The Streamliner chronograph has a price tag of US$43,900 – a sizeable number that’s justifiable because the watch stands out f...

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Streamliner Centre Second SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Aug 26, 2020

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Streamliner Centre Second

Launched earlier this year after much teasing, the Streamliner chronograph was the first sports watch – with an integrated bracelet – from H. Moser & Cie. The Streamliner design accomplished an unusual feature: bringing to the table a unique case and bracelet style that manages to look at home with other luxury-sports watches, while being distinctive enough to avoid being derivative. With Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan having revealed additional Streamliner models were in the pipeline, the latest is not a surprise. The Steamliner Centre Second retains the same case and bracelet style of the chronograph, but as a more affordable, time-only watch. Initial thoughts Slightly smaller than the chronograph, the time-only Streamliner is 40 mm wide and 11.8 mm high, so it is fairly classical in its proportions. That also means it probably wears slightly better than the chronograph, which was already quite compact despite its measurements. And the striking green fume dial doubtlessly gives the Streamliner Centre Second a good deal of wrist presence. Priced at a little under US$22,000, the new watch is markedly more affordable, costing half as much as the chronograph. That said, the Streamliner Centre Second is pricey compared to Moser’s other steel watches. While the chronograph was well priced and compelling, mainly because it is powered by the ingenious Agenhor movement, the time-only Streamliner isn’t quite as strong a value proposition. Streamliner style Havin...

INTRODUCING: A breath of fresh Classic Fusion, Hublot’s Aerofusion Chronograph Special Edition “Boutique Monaco” Time+Tide
Hublot s Aerofusion Chronograph Special Jul 1, 2020

INTRODUCING: A breath of fresh Classic Fusion, Hublot’s Aerofusion Chronograph Special Edition “Boutique Monaco”

How do you celebrate a first birthday? Balloons? Candles? Maybe a cake? That’s what most folks would do. Hublot, however, like to do things a little differently. That’s why, to mark a year since their Monaco boutique opened, the provocative Swiss watchmaker has unveiled this – the Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Special Edition “Boutique … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A breath of fresh Classic Fusion, Hublot’s Aerofusion Chronograph Special Edition “Boutique Monaco” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Longines CEO Walter von Känel Retires After 51 Years SJX Watches
Longines CEO Walter von Känel Jun 18, 2020

Business News: Longines CEO Walter von Känel Retires After 51 Years

After an epic career, industry legend Walter von Känel has just retired as chief executive of Longines, a post he held since 1988. Now 79 years old, Mr von Känel joined Longines in 1969, just as the watch industry was on the cusp of the Quartz Crisis, and stayed for 51 years. Under his leadership Longines has become the world’s fourth largest watchmaker by revenue, with 2019 sales of about 1.65 billion Swiss francs – from an output of about 2.1 million watches – according to Morgan Stanley estimates. Despite Longines’ vast size, Mr von Känel retained an almost unbelievable grasp of the brand’s history and products, something he demonstrated during a 2016 interview where he could describe the calibre inside the Lindbergh remake of 1987. For all his success, Mr von Känel remained steadfastly dedicated to the brand, keeping a relatively low profile despite being in a business filled with large personalities. When I asked in the 2016 interview if Longines would be doing anything to mark his 50 years at the company, he response was simple: “I am against the cult of personality. We sell Longines watches, we don’t sell von Kanel watches.” On his retirement, Mr von Känel was named Honorary Chairman of Longines, while keeping his appointment as Chairman of the Longines Foundation. The new chief executive of Longines is Matthias Breschan, who was most recently chief executive of Rado. Mr Breschan, in turn, will be succeeded at Rado by Adrian Bosshard, who wa...

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Silicium Marquetry SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Silicium Marquetry Jun 10, 2020

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Silicium Marquetry

Revolutionary for its construction and use of silicon, the Ulysse Nardin Freak is still a unique watch almost two decades after its introduction. And the full-featured Freak is still a relatively costly watch, until the Freak X came along last year. The most affordable version of a watch that helped kickstart the age of high-tech mechanical watchmaking, the Freak X retains the essence of its bigger brother while simplifying the rest of the movement. Several iterations of the Freak X have been rolled out since then, including one that ironically takes silicon out of the movement – the Freak X Silicium Marquetry. The watch has a dial decorated with inlaid tiles of iridescent silicon, using the material for its aesthetic potential, rather than the usual functional purposes in the escapement. The Freak X Silicium Marquetry Initial thoughts The Freak X Silicium Marquetry is an aesthetic variant of the standard model, so it’s identical in all respects except the dial finish. A combination of metallic and glassy, the silicon dial is different from any other dial material and suits the look of the watch well. That means the case is compact, so it wears quite well. And more importantly, the watch has a cutting-edge balance wheel amounted on the minute hand, making one revolution an hour. It’s a surprisingly advanced regulator in a watch at this price point, and probably the most advanced of all watches in the price segment. But the Freak X Silicium Marquetry is substantiall...

Interview: IWC’s Head of R&D; on the New 2020 Complications SJX Watches
IWC s Head Jun 1, 2020

Interview: IWC’s Head of R&D; on the New 2020 Complications

A watchmaker who also trained as an engineer, Stefan Ihnen has been leading IWC’s movement development since 2006, continuing the brand’s long-established tradition of concise and practical movements. This year Mr Ihnen and his team rolled out new movements in a trio of Portugieser models – the Yacht Club Moon and Tide, Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph, and Monopusher Chronograph – all built according to a philosophy that mixes technical accompaniment with practicality. Since the 1980s, IWC’s movements have been characterised by a pragmatic approach, making a virtue of constructing the most complex mechanisms in a simple, robust manner. The philosophy gave birth to many of the brand’s hallmark complications such as the Da Vinci perpetual calendar and the Il Destriero Scafusia, both complicated but powered by the Valjoux 7750. The cal. 82835 in the new Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide And in the year 2000, the brand debuted the cal. 5000, an extra-large automatic movement with a seven-day power reserve and Pellaton winding mechanism, marking the start IWC’s modern generation of in-house movements. Twenty years on, IWC boasts an extensive range of proprietary calibres of 10 movement families. Beyond the solid and impressive foundations, the movements sometimes incorporate esoteric complications, ranging from a constant force tourbillon, and the a newly-introduced tide complication. Mr Ihnen is the perfect person to shed light on these movements. Formal...

Our 3 favourite watches from H. Moser & Cie.’s new Certified Pre-Owned Collection Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie.’s new Certified Mar 17, 2020

Our 3 favourite watches from H. Moser & Cie.’s new Certified Pre-Owned Collection

In an increasingly common trend among Swiss watchmakers, H. Moser & Cie. has unveiled a dedicated, in-house managed range of certified pre-owned watches. Available for purchase directly through the H. Moser & Cie. website, the curated collection of timepieces are, according to Moser, meticulously inspected, serviced and polished back to factory original condition by the … ContinuedThe post Our 3 favourite watches from H. Moser & Cie.’s new Certified Pre-Owned Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life Time+Tide
Chanel J12 X-Ray Mar 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life

Transparency is almost always a good thing, be it in political donations, corporate bonuses or who your local member of parliament is having lunch with. It is a concept that Chanel has adopted as a motif in their watchmaking department, seen in the Boy.Friend Skeleton, their remarkable Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch (an almost US$800,000 skeletonised … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Diver X Cape Horn and Nemo Point SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Diver X Cape Horn Feb 25, 2020

Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Diver X Cape Horn and Nemo Point

Dive watches priced below US$10,000 are one of the saturated and competitive segments in watchmaking. The category is dominated by two dive watch icons, the Rolex Submariner and the Omega Seamaster, both of which set the bar high with high-spec, in-house escapements equipped with high-tech hairsprings and next-level chronometer certifications. Ulysse Nardin smartly steered away from the conventional dive-watch look with last year’s new Diver X. Created to mark the brand’s newly-forged partnership with Vendée Globe, a non-stop solo yacht race around the globe, the Diver X Cape Horn and Diver X Nemo Point are a contemporary take on the standard Diver Chronometer 44mm, dressed up in new materials and colours but retaining the same basic specs, namely a 300 m rating and an in-house movement with a proprietary escapement. The Diver X Cape Horn Dubbed the “Everest of the Seas” because of its reputation as the toughest sailing competition in the world, the Vendée Globe is such an arduous journey that the eight races since 1989 have claimed three lives. Competitors have to travel over 40,000 km, a round-the-world trip that takes between two to four months. Unsurprisingly, the twin Diver X editions are aggressively styled and technically robust. Form and function Each named after key points along the Vendée Globe route, the Cape Horn and Nemo Point have the longstanding, symmetrical layout of a Ulysse Nardin diver’s watch – originally inspired by the dial of the br...

Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week Time+Tide
Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Feb 3, 2020

Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week

Though it may have been a few weeks ago, such was the extent of Hublot’s 2020 novelties unveiled at LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week that it’s still got the horological hemisphere talking. For a start, the big talking point was that the Swiss watchmaker’s iconic Big Bang was unveiled on an all-new integrated bracelet, and thus, … ContinuedThe post Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: “Our planet is the most precious gem we have.” Bulgari CEO adds his voice – and a $50K watch – to our bushfire appeal auction Time+Tide
Bulgari CEO adds his voice Jan 23, 2020

VIDEO: “Our planet is the most precious gem we have.” Bulgari CEO adds his voice – and a $50K watch – to our bushfire appeal auction

There was not a moment’s hesitation. Jean-Christophe Babin, the CEO of Bulgari, and I were standing on a pool deck at a villa in Dubai. Within sight, an emerald green ocean. Swaying palm trees. Skies of blue. A world away from the scene I had left, when I’d jumped on an Emirates flight 24 hours … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: “Our planet is the most precious gem we have.” Bulgari CEO adds his voice – and a $50K watch – to our bushfire appeal auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie. SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Since Edouard Dec 4, 2019

Interview: Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie.

Since Edouard Meylan took the top job at H Moser & Cie. in 2013, after his family acquired the struggling brand a year earlier, he righted the ship and the brand is now forging ahead with technical ambition and a surprising degree of commercial nous. Wielding a Wharton MBA, Mr Meylan devised creative, and at times, controversial marketing campaigns – from the “Frankenstein” watch to one covered in grass – that have allowed Moser to punch above its weight as a maker of just 1,500 watches a year. Yet Moser has retained its technical know-how that has allowed it to refine its signature perpetual calendar, amongst other things. That’s aided by the fact that besides Moser, the Meylan family interests also control its sister company Precision Engineering, via a 90% ownership of the holding company Moser Watch Holding. The component specialist produces hairsprings, as well as other key movement components like escape wheels, pallet forks, and balance wheels, supplying Moser as well as a host of the independent brands. The ingenious Moser perpetual calendar movement During his recent visit to Singapore to inaugurate the newly inked partnership with retailer Cortina Watch, we sat down with Mr Meylan to discuss a spectrum of topics, from his mischief-making promotional activities to the firm’s manufacturing, as well as the soon-to-be-launched chronograph. The interview was edited for clarity and length. When you took over the company seven years ago, it was struggling ...

Rediscovering the Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue Time+Tide
Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue Editor’s note Nov 17, 2019

Rediscovering the Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue

Editor’s note: The Rolex Milgauss is a distinctly underrated timepiece. In fact, it may be one of the most forgotten-about models in Rolex’s current Professional line-up. And many of us thought leading up to Baselworld this year that it may well be discontinued, due to Rolex parading the Milgauss all over their social platforms and … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Nov 6, 2019

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine

Introduced almost a decade ago in 2010, the H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Moon is among the most accurate moon phase watches on the market, deviating by a day after 1027.3 years. A complex mathematical feat, the moon phase mechanism was originally conceived by none other than independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler, who himself holds the record for the most precise moon phase display in the world – accurate to a day in 2.045 million years. Having unveiled the watch with a blacker-than-black Vantablack dial a year ago, H. Moser & Cie. has now introduced the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine that has a sparkly aventurine glass dial evoking a night sky. Full of stars Like many of Moser’s watches, the case of the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept is relatively large at 42mm wide and 13.1mm high due to the movement inside. It is available in both a red gold or a stainless-steel case that are characterised by a generously sloping bezel and brushed case band punctuated with polished concave flanks. The dial is made of aventurine glass, also known as goldstone, a man-made material produced by mixing fine metal particles into blue glass. Aventurine glass is often used in watchmaking, specifically for moon phases and calendar displays, for its striking, iridescent reflections that create the impression of a starry sky. According to legend, aventurine glass was discovered by accident on the Venetian island of Murano in the 16th century when copper filings fell into a vat o...

You Are There: Monterey Car Week 2019 With Singer Reimagined And H. Moser & Cie Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie GaryG has Aug 30, 2019

You Are There: Monterey Car Week 2019 With Singer Reimagined And H. Moser & Cie

GaryG has been to Monterey Car Week around 20 times now to meet up with friends and enjoy the array of cars and, more recently, watches on display. While in recent years they have focused on the “big” events at The Quail and Pebble Beach, this year the group decided to add some variety and go off the beaten path a bit – with satisfying results.