Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith x Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton 'White Surfer' Ceramic
Time+Tide's final collaboration with Zenith caps off the trilogy with white ceramic and gradient blue accents, perfect for summer.
Results for GMT & World Time
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon
The signature complication of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking, the Spin Time is a jump hours with a twist that is now 16 years now. Earlier this year, the complication was given a major technical and aesthetic update with an all-new collection, the Tambour Taiko Spin Time, featuring a new case and a new movement family – both developed and produced in-house. The flagship model is the Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon that combines the jumping hours with a central flying tourbillon – a logical use of the peripheral arrangement of the time display. Though the most complicated (and expensive) of the line, the Flying Tourbillon has all of the key elements of the Tambour Taiko, including the redesigned case and a new movement made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Louis Vuitton’s Geneva watch manufacture. Initial thoughts Whether or not you like the watches themselves, the Tambour Taiko Spin Time collection is a statement of intent by Louis Vuitton. The brand has made substantial investment in vertical integration and manufacturing, essentially watchmaking, and the Tambour Taiko line-up is proof of that. More specifically, the family of movements that underpins the Tambour Taiko illustrates the industrial-haute horlogerie capability that Louis Vuitton has developed in a relatively short period of time, the very sort of competence required to build a high-end watch brand at scale. The movements in the Tambour Taiko collection now number three, but are all part of the s...
Time+Tide
New releases from Cartier, Hermès, Zenith x Time+Tide and more
Our third and final collaboration with Zenith was the biggest watch news this week (although we're biased).The post New releases from Cartier, Hermès, Zenith x Time+Tide and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Moritz Grossmann GMT now with Guilloché Dials
As a brand that takes great pride in the pursuit of Schönstes Deutsches Handwerk, translated as “the most beautiful German craftsmanship,” Moritz Grossmann is home to exquisite handcrafted dials. Giving old-school decorative techniques a contemporary twist, Grossmann proposes two new versions of its practical traveller’s GMT watch with hand-guilloché dials in lush summer colours. Moritz […]
Worn & Wound
The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Returns with an Appetite and a Tourbillon
Many watches are designed to perform specific tasks or serve specific purposes beyond telling the time. Divers have bold markers and ratcheting bezels, pilot watches are oversized and might include a second time zone, track watches feature chronographs or tachymeters, etc, and then, there’s the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eaters. Featuring a giant eyeball for the hour hand, a spinning set of teeth for the seconds, and a double-sided arm that’s giving a one-finger salute, they don’t seek to fulfill a practical purpose. Instead, I’d classify them as “memento absurdum,” which is to say, objects that remind you of the absurdity, whether in life or watch collecting. If you’re thinking, “Now, wait a second, didn’t they just come out with a new Time Eater like a few days ago?” you’d be correct. A 42mm model with a navy blue chapter ring and a darker silver than previous versions, it was a handsome, if iterative, addition. But the Time-Eater is back once again, this time with a substantial change: it now has a tourbillon. This isn’t the first time we’ve seen Louis Erard use a tourbillon movement, specifically the “affordable for a tourbillon” BCP T02 by Olivier Mory, which appeared on a few of their Alain Silberstein collabs. The Time-Eater Tourbillon (TET from here out) is basically a reedition of one of the first two Time-Eaters, which was initially introduced in either a 39mm case with a purple chapter ring, or a 42mm case with a green ch...
Video
Wrist Check Wednesday At Hodinkee HQ
We made it through New York Watch Week, and now we’re here to bring you this week’s Wrist Check Wednesday! Tim Jeffreys makes his laps around Hodinkee’s busy HQ to show you what everyone is wearing on their wris...
Monochrome
First Look - The Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer, Closing the Zenith x Time+Tide Surfer Trilogy
Following the Defy Classic Skeleton Night Surfer (2021) and Defy Skyline Skeleton Night Surfer (2023), Zenith and Time+Tide now introduce the third and final chapter in their collaborative Surfer Trilogy. This latest limited edition, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic, builds on the openworked aesthetic and mechanical architecture of the existing white Defy Skyline […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic
Timing is everything when it comes to surfing and buying limited-edition watches. That’s doubly true when it comes to buying a surf-themed LE timepiece. So stop slacking and pay attention because here’s the Zenith × Time & Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic. This is the third and final “Surfer” limited edition, and Zenith […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Our ‘Surfer Trilogy’ is complete with the Zenith x Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic
It's always darkest before the dawn...The post Our ‘Surfer Trilogy’ is complete with the Zenith x Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon
The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon marks the evolution in the ongoing collaboration between the Swiss indie brand and master watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin. Building on the success of the previous “Time Eater” regulator models, part of Chaykin’s expressive Wristmons universe, the new model introduces a tourbillon with regulator display to the series […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Colorful New Certina DS-X GMT
Well, well, well… It appears that Certina isn’t standing still and allowing microbrands to have all the fun with color. The new DS-X GMT collection consists of five new models. One visited us at Fratello HQ, and it marks a real departure for Certina and the Swatch Group in general. Gear up for fun, affordable, […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorful New Certina DS-X GMT to read the full article.
Video
Big Announcement: The Watch Industry Doesn't Want This To Happen, But...
After a nearly 2 year hiatus, something big is about to return. Today an announcement that many have been waiting to hear, but the watch industry might not want to happen. Inspired by the 1997 surrealist comedy about...
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reviewed by Tim Mosso
There’s nothing practical about a $76,000 watch – at least not in the big frame. But in the context of expensive man jewelry, some options are more useful than others. That’s where the Patek Philippe Pilot Travel Time Chronograph enters the small frame. Tim Mosso takes a closer look.
Time+Tide
The Breitling Top Time B31 could be the top dog under US$6,000
The new Breitling Top Time B31 distills the model down to time and date essentials, with colourful contrast dials and a new 78-hour calibre.The post The Breitling Top Time B31 could be the top dog under US$6,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One!
Let’s start with a riddle. What has one eye, one mouth, two hands, and a rebellious soul? You got it - the Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III. The million-dollar question is whether humor belongs in luxury watchmaking, but when it looks good, it doesn’t matter if you think the watch […] Visit Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One! to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The New Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Collection Time Only Review
Breitling has updated their SuperOcean Heritage Collection, and with a range of seemingly small but big changes, we’ve taken the time-only models and put them to the test! What We Love The case refinements across the range The small nods to the vintage 1957 model The new in-house B31 Calibre What We Don’t The overlapping of the rubber strap under the wrist Fewer choices when it comes to the colour combinations in rose gold The domed crystal can reflect the light on the darker dials a little Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Earlier this month, Breitling released the new look SuperOcean Heritage Collection with a suite of changes that, while looking like small incremental changes, all added up to noticeable differences across the entire range. We had a first look at these upon release, and were fortunate enough to get our hands on them for some time prior, so the whole team was able to see the changes themselves in person, and what they meant for the wearer of the new models. Sam and I flipped a coin to see who would review the time only and who would review the new chronographs. This was a coin toss with no loser, as each was a good a choice as any, and I scored the time only. So stay tuned for Sam’s review of the Chronograph in a few weeks time. Breitling’s New SuperOcean Heritage Collection Kicks Up A Swell! Initial Thoughts I’ve always said, press photos and renders don’t always do the wat...
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review
The GMT market has changed dramatically in the past seven years. I use that number specifically, because it takes us to 2018, when Tudor brought attainable traveller GMT (independent hour hand functionality) to market in a splashy way. Since then we have seen brands like Longines and Mido continue the work by delivering more options at even better price points. From a general “caller GMT” standpoint, Seiko has knocked it out of the park with models like those within the SSK range. We are living in a GMT moment with more options than ever. But if you took things back just one more year, to 2017, you could argue that it was the year Japan’s Grand Seiko made a mic-dropping value statement by way of the SBGM221, a traveller GMT in a dressier package with elite functionality while delivering value that far outpaces its price point. In 2025, that value proposition has not changed at all. Background: The DNA of the SBGM221 looks back to the early roots of Grand Seiko in the 1960s to inform its design, but from a modern standpoint more directly can look to the SBGM021 released around 2010. That year is significant because it was the first year the brand arrived in the U.S. market. Aesthetically, the SBGM021 is an illustration of the older style of co-branded Seiko/Grand Seiko fare. Fast forward to 2017, and the watch reaches its completed form. But the 021, with its ivory dial, and general – and honestly quite original – GMT layout is established. You can see the direc...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone
A little less than a month ago, we saw the introduction of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. The watch commemorates 100 years of Longines dual-time watches in a rather bold fashion. Its rose-gold-capped bezel and matching gold dial details set it apart from any other Spirit Zulu Time. I was immediately intrigued by this […] Visit Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone to read the full article.
Fratello
Why I Bought A Five-Digit Rolex GMT-Master II (Again)
It must have been 1999 or 2000 when the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16710 was incredibly high on my wishlist. I even had the official Rolex advertisement for this model as the wallpaper on my Windows desktop. But I was a student, and the Rolex GMT-Master II was out of reach. The Rolex GMT-Master II […] Visit Why I Bought A Five-Digit Rolex GMT-Master II (Again) to read the full article.
Deployant
Review: the new Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575
Released at Watches & Wonders Geneva 25, here is our review of the new Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Edition
Few brands can look back on a history in aviation timekeeping as Longines. The brand’s archive is as broad as it is deep, with names like Weems, Lindbergh and Majetek being just the tip of the iceberg. Today, Longines looks back in time yet again to celebrate a century of the Zulu, a name linked […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 (Live Pics And Pricing)
Celebrating 100 years of dual time watchmaking from Longines.
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925
Longines introduced the Zulu Time models to its aviation-influenced Spirit collection in 2022, and the watch’s dual-time complication, stylishly bold design, and undeniable value proposition have made it one of the brand’s biggest hits of the 2020s, spawning additional models in an array of sizes, materials, and color executions. The Spirit Zulu Time is now such a fixture in the Longines portfolio that it almost seems like it has always been there, despite being a relatively recent addition to the lineup; it doesn’t even precede the Covid pandemic, which, of course, somehow seems like it happened only yesterday and yet also in another time and dimension entirely. However, all of that said, Longines’ history of making dual-time or GMT wristwatches like the Zulu Time reaches back much further - 100 years, to be exact. And it is that century milestone to which Longines pays tribute with the latest member of the family, unveiled today: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. Longines Zulu Time History: Longines produced its first “Zulu Time” wristwatch in that eponymous year of 1925, in the heart of the Art Deco era. Very dissimilar to the round-cased modern descendant, that watch had an angular, square case and ornate hour numerals, along with a third hand to indicate a second time zone and, most notably, a Zulu flag emblem with a red letter “Z.” Where did this iconography originate? In military jargon, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for t...
Monochrome
Hands-on - Understanding The Highly Original Ressence Type 7 GMT (Incl. Video)
It’s not every day we get to see a new Ressence, but in the past decade and a half, the brand has carved out an impressive reputation for originality and creativity. And in all honesty, it really is one of the most original brands around, with a unique take on how to display time. Especially […]
Fratello
Debuted But Not Debated: The Green Cerachrom Dial In The Left-Handed White Gold Rolex GMT-Master II “Sprite”
It was the Land-Dweller that stole the limelight, and understandably so. After all, it’s not often that The Crown presents an entirely new collection with a groundbreaking movement innovation to boot. I did feel sorry for the other novelties, though. The pastel-tinted Oyster Perpetual watches were quite lovely, for instance, but they got trampled on […] Visit Debuted But Not Debated: The Green Cerachrom Dial In The Left-Handed White Gold Rolex GMT-Master II “Sprite” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Piaget’s “Time Machine” event transported guests in London
Piaget took us on a tour of some of their most glamorous creations throughout the ages in our London Discovery Studio.The post Piaget’s “Time Machine” event transported guests in London appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor GMT: The Definitive Guide
Before getting into the Tudor GMT guide, let's put the brand in context as it has experienced a modern renaissance since returning to the U.S. market with the Black Bay collection in 2012. No longer content as a mere sub-brand of big brother Rolex, Tudor has established itself as the de facto tool-watch manufacture in the $3,000 - $6,000 range, and the brand has done it through methodical progress within the Black Bay, Ranger, and Pelagos families. In 2016, Tudor introduced its first in-house caliber in the North Flag, and has since established its own movements throughout the portfolio, allowing Tudor to approach complications in its own way. Arguably, the most important of these complications is the GMT, which made its modern debut with the Black Bay GMT in 2018. But that’s not the first GMT from the brand. In this guide, we’ll take a look back at what may be some forgotten GMT references from Tudor, and make our way through the now expansive modern stable of watches boasting the reference today. A GMT is likely the most most requested feature when it comes to new Tudor watches, and lately, the brand has been particularly in tune with those demands - to the point where it’s safe to say that we’re spoiled for choice these days. That’s not to say that there aren’t a few expressions of this complication that we’d still like to see, and I’ll outline some of those in closing. The GMT complication is a foundational part of the Rolex identity, with Tudor'...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”
While the most valuable lot at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction will likely be the Breguet Sympathique clock no. 1, the sale also includes a few unexpected and interesting lots. One standout is the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”, a unique piece created for the Only Watch charity auction in 2019. Consigned by the original owner – who is a prominent collector whom I greatly respect – the Spin Time is a flamboyant, gem-set take on Louis Vuitton’s signature complication. The centrepiece is a miniature enamel dial by Anita Porchet depicting a motif inspired by tattoo art. This unique Spin Time originally sold for CHF280,000 at Only Watch 2019. Now carrying an estimate of CHF40,000-80,000, the watch will go on the block at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 10, 2025. Initial thoughts I was a fan of this Spin Time when it was first revealed in 2019. In fact, I bid on it at Only Watch, but I was laughably uncompetitive and far from the CHF280,000 hammer. In contrast to the latest generation of Spin Time that is both refined and discreet, this watch is over the top and I like it because of that. The aesthetic is a lot, maybe too much, but it works. Most importantly, the watch is not just about extravagant styling. The dial is the work of Anita Porchet herself, combining both miniature painting and champleve. Certainly the motif is not for everyone, but the quality of craft is unmistakeable. A rose among the thorns This unique Spin Time...
Quill & Pad
Rolex Submariner vs. GMT Master II: Small Differences, Difficult Decision
Rolex Submariner or GMT Master II? This is not an easy question and veryone will have their own opinion on which of these two iconic watches is their favorite. Many considering owning a Rolex will start with these two models. Raman Kalra tries to pick his favorite.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Why The Seiko Prospex SPB519J1 GMT Has Me Watching Their Premium Divers Again
A look at the attractive new Seiko Prospex SPB519J1 GMT that serves as a new non-limited edition within the Prospex lineup.