Hodinkee
Three On Three: Comparing Entry-Level, In-House Automatics From Grand Seiko, Omega, And Rolex
How do affordable models from three of the biggest brands in high-end watchmaking stack up?
1,020 articles · 48 videos found · page 17 of 36
The 2010 Spring Drive reference with a dial textured like fresh Shinshu snow.
Nine new references, a better bracelet, and the Spring Drive UFA making its way into classic Evo9 cases. Here's what actually changed.
Hodinkee
How do affordable models from three of the biggest brands in high-end watchmaking stack up?
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko SBGA469, SLGH011, and SLGH019 are three interesting watches best seen 'in the metal'. But they can only be purchased exclusively online.The post Grand Seiko’s latest trio of online exclusives are worth skipping the boutique experience for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Over the last few years, Grand Seiko has introduced a nearly nonstop stream of variants in their popular “SBGW” line of 37mm, manually wound dress watches. We’ve covered these watches at length, because we’re honestly pretty big fans. There’s a lot to like: they are based on the original Grand Seiko design language dating back to the founding of the brand, they are relatively affordable when compared to other watches in the Grand Seiko catalog, and they possess an elegant simplicity that is easy to dress up or down with a simple strap change. And of course, as time passes, there’s seemingly no end to the colors and textures that might pop up. But one thing has eluded collectors, at least many in the United States, and that’s a bracelet option. The Japanese market has long had the ability to pair this case with an elegant stainless steel bracelet, but the American collector has to jump through some hoops. That changed last week in an update to the collection could serve to reset the “SBGW” experience. The new SBGW305 sees the dress watch fashioned with a simple silver dial, and a case mounted to a five-row steel bracelet that appears to be virtually identical to the bracelet that was paired with the JDM model SBGW235. For a better look, you can check out our recent video on our team’s mutual love for Grand Seiko, where you’ll see Worn & Wound cofounder Zach Weiss guiding us through his own personal collection of Grand Seikos, which includes the SBGW2...
Hodinkee
Plus, a familiar face shows us the kind of watch you can buy after retiring as an all-time great.
Worn & Wound
Without a doubt, something that binds the Worn & Wound editorial team together is a love and appreciation for Grand Seiko. Zach Weiss, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan are all genuine fans of the brand, and have owned virtually every category of modern Grand Seiko over the years. From the gorgeous Zaratsu polishing to the true ingenuity of their in-house movements and unique textured dials, there’s no shortage of pathways to finding a way to love Grand Seiko. In this video, Zach W., Kat, and Zach K. discuss how they first encountered the brand and why they continue to appreciate these watches. They also talk about their own Grand Seiko collections, watches they currently own and have owned in the past, and show you exactly what they enjoy about them. This is a conversation about the Grand Seiko ownership experience as much as it is about the experience of collecting. Also in this video, Zach Weiss tells us about his recent trip to Japan to see Grand Seiko’s manufacturing facilities up close, and shows us the watch he picked up as a keepsake that can only be found for sale in the brand’s home country. The post [VIDEO] Round Table: Why We Collect Grand Seiko appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Seiko has expanded its range of (very) reasonably priced sports watches with the Seiko 5 Sports Field Sports Style GMT. Available in stainless steel (SSK023) or black-coated steel (SSK025), it retains the military-inspired aesthetics of its time-only counterparts, while incorporating an additional hour hand showing a second time zone. Initial thoughts The new models evoke a sense of familiarity with the “field” style dial and 24-hour markers, a longstanding design that’s been part of the Seiko 5 line-up for decades. But now the dial adopts a modern, utilitarian style, departing from the vintage-inspired aesthetic found in the time-only “field” models such as the SRPG35 and SRPJ85. And purists will appreciate the absence day-of-the-week display, with the dial having just the date. The black-on-black SSK025 achieves an almost ideal look for this type of watch. The near-monochromatic aesthetic creates an extremely satisfying contrast with the orange accents that brings to mind a fighter jet cockpit. The SSK025 Beyond the cosmetic changes, the new models are typical of Seiko’s entry-level GMT models. They are more accurately described as dual time zone watches with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than true GMT watches that feature an adjustable local-time hour hand, as seen in pricier watches from Grand Seiko or Tudor. Although setting the time for a second time zone involves a few additional steps, this represents an acceptable compromise consid...
Monochrome
While being strongly driven by the release of new models in recent years, Grand Seiko does carry a few emblematic models in its collection; watches that have barely changed over the last 10 to 20 years. We can immediately think about the cream-dial Elegance GMT reference SBGM221. Another important model for Grand Seiko is a […]
Quill & Pad
As Joshua Munchow swiped through posts on Instagram one day, he was stopped in his tracks, toothbrush dangling from his gaping mouth, eyes wide, and one singular thought running through his head as he stared at his phone: Grand Seiko doesn’t make movements like this. This is an avant-garde tourbillon movement with a constant force escapement and incredible, exposed mechanics! What in the world . . .?! Meet the T0.
SJX Watches
Citizen launched its flagship mechanical watch, the Caliber 0200, two years ago. Despite being better known for high-end quartz watches – including the most accurate ever – the Japanese watchmaker managed an impressively executed three-handed sports watch, with an equally outstanding new movement. Now the model finally receives a mechanical upgrade with the Caliber 0210, which incorporates a date along with subtle improvements to the external design, while retaining the excellent case and bracelet that define the model. Initial thoughts The Caliber 0210 indicates the brand’s interest in further developing this excellent model – encouraging for fans of the model like myself. Despite the Caliber 0210 looking much like its predecessor, it is actually a substantially different watch in tangible terms. Ordinarily the addition of a date would be a no-no for a purist enthusiast, but here the date is integrated well in terms of dial proportions and (re)design. The appealing attributes of the Caliber 0200, and now the Caliber 0210, clearly mark the two out as watches conceived for a niche audience, namely enthusiasts who appreciate quality – and are able to distinguish this from the competition (Grand Seiko to state the obvious). However, this target audience often prefers the purity of a three-hand watch without a date. At the same time, this audience comprehends the substantive upgrades in the Caliber 0210 beyond the date – amongst them the improved case constructi...
Worn & Wound
When it comes to deciding on a new watch, I know I think about all the usual suspects: build quality, fit and finish, movement, and most importantly (for me anyway) is the look. In my conversations with other enthusiasts, brand heritage has also come up. But what happens if you’re looking at brands who are not old enough to have years of heritage? Well, I would argue that it’s important to discern what that brand stands for – their ethos. $1185 Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps” Case Stainless steel Movement Soprod Newton Dial Red Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 30 meters Dimensions 38 x 46.8mm Thickness 11mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $1185 Buci, established in 2022 out of Paris, has a soul that is super-charged with poetry. Brand owner Nousseïma Baraket is both a poet and avid reader of poetry, on top of being filled with a love for horology. If you stop to think about it, our passion for watches is not without romance and poetry. Afterall, we willingly wear some of the smallest engine turning ecosystems in the world on our wrists, knowing full well that time is kept better on our phones and computers. We don’t need them, but our lives are enriched by their presence. At this point we all know that watches have different stories to tell. Studio Underd0g lets us know that we can have fun with our classic watch designs. Grand Seiko manages to capture the nuances of nature in their dials. Buci oversees the integrat...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Grand Seiko SBGH295 features a striking dial, incredible movement, and fine craftsmanship - but at $6900, is it worth the price?
Time+Tide
Inspired by an undeniably Japanese natural phenomenon, it weirdly makes sense for a watch earmarked for Australia and New Zealand.The post Grand Seiko’s whirlpool-inspired SBGH331 Oceania limited edition has got Antipodean watch fans in a spin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage 1970s Zodiac Automatic Day-Date w/ Mesh Zodiac Band Zodiac is most well known to vintage watch collectors for their incredible Sea Wolf divers, but they also made a plethora of other models, including this early 1970’s sporty dress watch which has loads of vintage style. The silver dial has applied block steel markers, stick hands and a day date window at 3 o’clock that is opposite of the Zodiac script which gives the dial a nice balance. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and original finish, and the watch has the original signed crown to boot. A nice touch is that this gem comes on the original Zodiac signed mesh bracelet made by JB Champion. Really nice looking and subtly blingy piece. View auction here Seiko 5 Vintage 5126-8110 Next up is a great looking vintage Seiko 5 from 1968. This model 5126-8110 has a little bit of everything. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and you can tell it is a distant relative of the Grammar of Design school of aesthetics from the King and Grand Seiko lines. The charcoal dial is super clean, with lume filled, applied steel markers and the usual day/date window at 3 o’clock. To me, the best part of this one i...
Worn & Wound
Oris expands their ProPilot X collection this week at the Dubai Watch Week event, with the introduction of the ProPilot X Laser. The watch continues with the theme of the ProPilot X, bringing the same trim titanium case and bracelet to the party, but this time mated to a very different dial experience than we’ve seen before in this collection. There are big changes and some smaller ones that we appreciate seeing here, as this represents the biggest departure from the standard trio introduced last year. Oris has never been afraid to wade into experimental waters with their dials, and this ProPilot X continues that trend in a new way. The latest ProPilot X is called Laser thanks to the technique used to create its dial, a method which Oris claims has not been applied in watchmaking before. Oris enlisted the help of a research lab affiliated to the prestigious ETH Zürich university to bring the concept to life. The result is something bordering ethereal in person, with a constantly changing palette of colors rendered in the unique texture. The iridescent effect is quite powerful and Oris has demonstrated a deft hand in making sure it’s the focal point of this watch. We’ve been spoiled by some truly amazing dial creations in recent years from the likes of Grand Seiko, Czapek, Arcanaut, and yes, even Oris. My first thought upon seeing a truly compelling dial is to how it fits in with the rest of the watch. For instance, the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite boasts a unique color...
Time+Tide
Full disclosure, I have meant to have these two watches go head-to-head in battle on the site for quite some time. Fanboys like myself have long drawn comparisons between Rolex and Grand Seiko in an attempt to showcase how well-made and competitive the Japanese manufacturer’s offerings are in comparison to the behemoth that is The … ContinuedThe post An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We take a look at all the things brands have to offer before Dubai Watch Week 2023.The post New releases from Boldr, Bremont, Grand Seiko and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Time+Tide
I might not have a private jet or drive a Ferrari, but wearing this GS for a day made me feel like I do.The post Living the jet set lifestyle for a day with the Grand Seiko SBGE285 Spring Drive GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
... Read more
Revolution
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko held their annual GS9 Club gathering for members of their collecting community over the weekend, and just like last year’s event in Brooklyn, this year’s festivities involved the launch of a new watch. Three watches, in fact, made their debut at the GS9 event this year, which for the first time took place on the west coast. The new watches are all fresh spins on the midsize 44GS case that Grand Seiko debuted to much fanfare in 2022, and they’re also all exclusive releases for the US market. Beyond another expansion of what is proving to be a fan favorite case size, the news here is that this release sees the Mt. Iwate pattern coming to the 36.5mm stainless steel 44GS case. The Mt. Iwate pattern draws on the ridges of the Japanese peak as seen from the brand’s facilities in Shizukuishi for inspiration, and it’s notable for the way it can disappear in certain lighting conditions and really come alive in others. There are three new dial variants as part of this release, each linked to a specific characteristic of the natural world around Shizukuishi and Japanese culture. The SBGW313 has a deep pink dial, inspired by blooming cherry blossoms. While this is certainly ground that Grand Seiko has covered in the past, it’s a beautiful shade of pink and the first time the color has been given the Mt. Iwate treatment. The SBGW311 has a dial that is inspired by Japan’s rainy season, with a tone meant to evoke the lush greenery of the region. And the SBGW...
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko has just launched three new U.S exclusive midsize 44GS references at their GS9 Club USA event.The post The Grand Seiko 36.5mm 44GS range expands with three new U.S. exclusive references (SBGW309, SBGW311, SBGW313) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Worn & Wound
One of the more exciting releases from Grand Seiko over the last couple of years (we know – there have been a lot of new Grand Seiko releases) was the limited edition SBGW289, a pink hued watch in a 44GS case with a throwback size of just 36.5mm. Naturally, plenty of people were excited about the pink dial, but hardcore Grand Seiko nerds were particularly into the idea of a smaller 44GS case, more in-line with vintage Grand Seiko proportions, and this LE that debuted in April of last year seemed to point toward future releases along these lines that might not be so limited, and perhaps even be in more classic and sober dial colors. With Grand Seiko’s latest release, they continue to build out the lineup of smaller 44GS cases with a pair of watches that feel like they could have been part of the Grand Seiko catalog since the 1960s. The new SBGW297 and SBGW299 have dials in white and blue, respectively, each with a classic, heavy, sunray pattern emanating from the center. This isn’t a subtle, brushed sunray texture, but a more defined series of fanned ridges that are more clearly visible and should play with the light in interesting ways. The dials, and the watches more broadly, are directly inspired by styles dating back to the 1967 introduction of the 44GS design, and there’s an understated simplicity here that is certainly core to the Grand Seiko aesthetic. The cases match the 36.5mm proportions of last year’s SBGW289, which means they offer all of the inher...
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko expands the popular 36.5mm 44GS line with two new fan-textured dials, complete with steel bracelets.The post The Grand Seiko SBGW297 & SBGW299 bring back bracelets to 36.5mm 44GS cases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Following the release of the 1970s diver reissue and a solar chronograph inspired by a 1990s design, Seiko has reintroduced another historical model as the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411. This remake draws inspiration from the Navigator Timer from 1968, the brand’s first dual time zone watch with a 24-hour rotating bezel. Now it’s been given a modern update with a new calibre and tweaks to the dial design while retaining the retro tonneau-shaped case. Initial thoughts The Navigator Timer is not quite as famous as its diving or chronograph counterparts, but still an important vintage “tool” watch amongst vintage Seikos. The Japanese brand has executed its long-awaited revival admirably, offering a contemporary interpretation with a modern movement while maintaining the essence of its original design. It’s worth noting that this reissue should be more accurately described as a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a genuine GMT with an adjustable local-time hour hand, a feature usually seen in higher-end Grand Seiko models. This distinction means that setting the watch for different time zones involves a few extra steps. However, given its price point, this compromise remains entirely reasonable. Priced at US$1,600, it’s a US$100 increase from the standard Prospex Diver’s GMT. Despite this modest cost bump, opting for this limited edition still offers great value. That said, collectors might be less...
Time+Tide
Jamie and Borna were lucky enough to go driving supercars with Grand Seiko. Must be nice.The post Going for a ‘Spring Drive’ with Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Raman Kalra initially preferred the Grand Seiko Skyflake case shape over the Snowflake, and found the light blue dial attractive. However, after considering Grand Seiko more seriously, he looked at a range of references. and it didn’t take him long to find the SBGA415 Winter.
Deployant
The world is a large, mysterious place and there are some facts about it that you simply can’t wrap your head around. Did you know that Japan enjoys the highest snowfall anywhere in the world, or that the word geoduck is pronounced ‘gooey-duck’? Or that there has never been a mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph, thatRead More
Worn & Wound
I have a friend in the local watch collecting community – let’s call him “Eric,” because that’s his name – and in the ongoing group chat between us and a handful of (sometimes) like-minded watch enthusiasts, a concept has emerged that we like to refer to as the “Eric Watch.” Eric has a very particular taste. He likes big watches, lots of lume, and is almost always drawn to the unusual. His collection, if you grouped all the watches he’s over owned together in a lineup, would be a real Island of Misfit Toys scenario. Watches go in and out of his collection at a rapid clip (instead of saying “congrats” when he posts a new acquisition, we like to say “good luck with sale”) but at various times he’s owned at least four different quartz Speedmasters, the Mario Kart Carrera, a black coated Cartier Santos, and a whole bunch of Breitlings made from materials ranging from “Breitlight” to gold. His ultimate grail watch is Grand Seiko’s “Godzilla” anniversary piece. You get the idea. When I saw the press release for the new Monaco Night Driver from TAG Heuer, I thought to myself, “This might be the ultimate Eric Watch,” and in fact wondered if it was designed by an artificial intelligence that had somehow downloaded his consciousness. First of all, it’s a Monaco. I’ve lost count of the number of Monaco pics he’s sent to the group chat over the years – let’s just stipulate that he’s a fan. Also, the titanium case is coated in bla...
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.