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22,657 articles · 216 videos found · page 17 of 763

Book Review: Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Haute Horlogerie May 24, 2021

Book Review: Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul

Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul. By Alexey Kutkovoy. Chaykin.ru; €230 Just glancing at Konstantin Chaykin’s repertoire tells you that there must be many stories behind his watches and clocks – they are markedly out of the ordinary. To tell some of those stories behind the timepieces – and his own story – Konstantin recruited renowned Russian watch journalist Alexey Kutkovoy in 2019. Despite Konstantin being a perfectionist, Mr Kutkovoy had journalistic freedom. “I was not bound by his control, so I had the privilege to compose my own independent vision with some nice subjects discovered, and I’m happy he left that untouched,” mentions Mr Kutkovoy. The Joker Selfie made for charity auction Only Watch 2019 His life and work The result is Konstantin Chaykin, a wide-ranging book that’s both an overview of Konstantin’s first 17 years of watchmaking as well as the myriad tales about his watches and clocks. Konstantin Chaykin is 384 well-filled pages, laid out in an unusual design that befits the individualism found in his watches. Originally published in Russian, the book is now available in English in a limited edition of 1,000 copies. Mr Kutkovoy decided to present Konstantin’s story in two separate threads – a timeline and an evolution of Konstantin’s clock and watch inventions – that presents a detailed history in a most accessible way. The opened cover of Konstantin Chaykin The first section is a chronological narrative, ...

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Vacheron Constantin Introduces the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Apr 8, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine

Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive – and arguably most compelling – time-only watch is the American 1921, a large, cushion-shaped wristwatch with the dial rotated off the vertical. Already available in a variety of guises, including platinum, the model now gets an upgrade in terms of materials with the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other watches in the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) collection – Vacheron Constantin debuts a CEP model every year or so – the American 1921 CEP has its case and dial in platinum, while the strap is stitched with thread woven from silk and platinum wire. Initial thoughts Wide, thin, and quirky, the 1921 is one of Vacheron Constantin’s most unusual offerings. I love everything about the watch – the design, size, and details – especially the platinum version with a silver dial and blue numerals. The CEP edition goes one better, and is even more appealing. The matte, grained platinum dial and applied Breguet-style numerals are perfect. Compared to the standard version of the 1921 in platinum, the 1921 CEP is relatively good value. The 1921 CEP costs less than 10% more than the standard version – a modest increment for the platinum dial and 100-piece production run. But the standard model is pricey to start with, so the 1921 CEP still costs a hefty US$51,000. Pt950 Debuted in 2006, the CEP collection now includes a variety of models, most recently last year’s Patrimony with calendar. Though the m...

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Rolex Introduces the Explorer 36 mm Ref. 124270 and Ref. 124273 SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Rolex Introduces the Explorer 36 mm Ref. 124270 and Ref. 124273

Just in time for the 50th anniversary of the Explorer II, Rolex is revamping both Explorer models, with the larger Explorer II getting a modest facelift and a new movement. But the Explorer gets a more wide-ranging makeover. The time-only watch retains its utilitarian good looks, keeping its distinctive dial with numerals at the quarters and an arrow at 12 o’clock. But the Explorer is now 36 mm, just as it was back in 1953 and down from the 39 mm of the outgoing model. More notably, the new Explorer will be available in Rolesor – two-tone steel and gold – for the very first time. Both versions of the new Explorer – the ref. 124270 in steel and ref. 124273 in Rolesor – are powered by the cal. 3230, a latest-generation, time-only movement. Initial thoughts Following the mantra of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, Rolex sticks to incremental improvements, slowly but substantially improving its watches over time. The Explorer was last given a gentle facelift in 2016, and it was truly gentle: the hands were lengthened to better match the 39 mm case, while the quarter-hour markers were filled with luminous paint. The Explorer The new Explorer is a product of this philosophy, delivering more in a more compact package. Though the case is 36 mm, the movement boast all of the brand’s latest innovations, while the dial also features a reformulated Chromalight luminous paint that glows for longer in the dark. At the same time, it is interesting that Rolex sh...

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H. Moser & Cie. and Minimalist Humour with Seconde/Seconde/ SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Apr 6, 2021

H. Moser & Cie. and Minimalist Humour with Seconde/Seconde/

Having become synonymous with stunningly minimalist fume dials and a peculiar sense of humour, H. Moser & Cie. now combines both in the new Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/. A limited-edition collaboration with Parisian artist Romaric Andre, who specialises in modifying watches as Seconde/Seconde/, the new watch reimagines the brand’s signature time-only watch by replacing the traditional hour hand with a pixellated eraser – a tongue-in-cheek reference to Moser’s “concept” dials that forgo the brand’s logo. Initial thoughts When I first saw the press release for the new watch, I did a double take – was it an April Fool’s gag? The watch is funny and out there, and something only Moser could pull off successfully. Being family-owned – with young, open-minded leaders – Moser can be adventurous than its peers. The Seconde/Seconde/ collaboration is Moser doing what it does well. In fact, Moser’s strength is obvious despite the “erased” logo – the watch is instantly recognisable as a Moser. I’ve always liked Moser’s whimsical offerings, such as the Apple Watch-esque Swiss Alps Final Upgrade, and now the Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/. These watches have an undeniable fun factor rarely seen in haute horlogerie, which endows the watch with a playful charm. It’s an atypical watch that is typical of the brand. At US$21,900, it’s priced identically to the standard Endeavour Centre Seconds in gold; this, however, has a ...

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Genus Bestows a Dragon on the Figure-of-8 Display SJX Watches
Urwerk so Genus Apr 3, 2021

Genus Bestows a Dragon on the Figure-of-8 Display

A young company founded just two years ago, Genus is all about exotic expressions of time. Though the brand is young, Genus cofounder Sébastien Billières is an industry veteran, having established a workshop that specialises in producing complicated movements for major brands exactly a decade ago. The brand made its debut with the GNS1 – essentially a time-only watch made ultra complicated by virtue of its unique time display – a snaking procession of pointers travelling in a figure of eight that create a dynamic tension unlike anything else. Genus has now taken the concept further with the GNS Dragon, which layers a miniature sculpture over the original in the form of a segmented gold dragon. Initial thoughts The rise of independent watchmakers with atypical time displays started two decades ago – personified by brands like Urwerk – so Genus is rather late to the game, but it still made an impressive entrance. The original GNS1 was a fresh perspective in a crowded arena, the very sort of diversity that makes this hobby fun. And the GNS1 is a serious watch in terms of quality and construction – it also did win the Mechanical Exception award at the 2019 GPHG. While the focal point is the intriguing time display, the movement finishing is excellent; not quite artisanal haute horlogerie like Akrivia, for instance, but nevertheless done by hand and done well, particularly in the genre of avant-garde watches. Made of solid 18k gold, the bridges have wide, polish...

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Hands-On: Longines Heritage Silver Arrow SJX Watches
Longines Heritage Silver Arrow One Mar 30, 2021

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Silver Arrow

One of several historical reissues Longines launched this year, the Heritage Silver Arrow is modelled on a wristwatch produced for a brief period starting in 1955. Named after the aluminium-bodied Mercedes race cars of the period, the watch was sleek, simple, and accented with details in the metalwork, something that the remake captures well. Notably, this is the second remake of the Silver Arrow, the first was launched in 2009 as the Silver Arrow 1955, and it had a date at three. Initial thoughts It’s becoming a cliche, but Longines does vintage remakes well and also does a lot of them. The designers at Longines are well versed with remakes, and they have clearly gotten better with time. The Silver Arrow still manages to outdo its peers in many ways, because it manages to get practically everything right. Longines’ remakes are uniformly good, but to varying degrees, and the Silver Arrow is one of the best. That’s helped by the fact that the vintage original is a straightforward watch, with only a few key elements that define the watch. Longines got all that right: the details are reasonably correct and well executed, the quality of finish is good, and the watch is a good size that evokes the feeling of the vintage original. Like all vintage remakes, the Silver Arrow is neither creative nor imaginative, but it is a handsome watch that is strong value for money. And that’s enough to make this a compelling choice for someone looking for a time-only watch in the US$2...

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Hublot Unveils the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Jan 26, 2021

Hublot Unveils the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black

Fresh off the press at LVMH Watch Week – which like most trade fairs was entirely online – the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black is one of the highlights amongst all the new launches. A collaboration with the Japanese contemporary artist known for his anime-inspired “superflat” creations, the Classic Fusion Murakami is a time-only watch with a twist: free-spinning, diamond-set petals that bring Mr Murakami’s “smiling flower” to life. Initial thoughts In photos the Murakami edition seems, at a glance, dull and static, in contrast to Mr Murakami’s signature style. But the watch glitters and spins, and despite not being serious haute horlogerie, it is cool and compelling. When I first heard that Hublot would be collaborating with Mr Murakami, I expected it to be dressed in psychedelic colours, so the muted All Black livery was a surprise. But as it turns out, it was Mr Murakami’s idea. Commenting the launch announcement, he said, “The one thing I did request was to go all black on our first collaboration… because the very first impression I had when I learned about Hublot was its signature black rubber [strap].” Still, the Murakami edition manages to convey the artist’s exuberant style without using colour, but instead relying on motion, texture, and the smiling flower emblem. And the all-black aesthetic makes sense given the diamonds and large size of the watch. The sparkle of the stones contrast well against the brushed bezel and bl...

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Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2020 SJX Watches
Chopard Dec 31, 2020

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2020

As it was with independent watchmaking, 2020 was a surprisingly good year for the establishment brands. Even though there were practically no in-person launches of new products – with the notable exception being Watches & Wonders in Shanghai – mainstream watchmakers did still debut notable timepieces. Here’s my take on the standouts of the year, starting with the might FB 2RE from Ferdinand Berthoud, a niche name that is nonetheless a subsidiary of Chopard (and the pet project of its co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele). Magnificent both in mechanics and decoration, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE is the watch of the year. Clearly developed a no-expense spared wristwatch, the FB 2RE is at heart a time-only watch constructed for chronometric perfection. It’s equipped with both a a remontoir d’egalite as well as chain and fusee in order to ensure a constant output of energy from the barrel, as well as a constant delivery of energy into the escapement. Both of its key feature are put on show in the symmetrical and architecturally expansive movement, which has all of its key components sitting above the main plate. The FB-RE.FC movement Located just below the balance wheel, the remontoir is particularly fine, made up of slender steel components that are clearly artisanal in manufacture and finish. The quality of finishing extends to the rest of the movement, which is impeccably decorated in every single aspect. In fact, the quality of the movement is com...

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Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” SJX Watches
Casio n along Dec 23, 2020

Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”

Unveiled earlier in the year to mark the 175th anniversary of the founding of A. Lange & Söhne, the 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” is one of a three-piece set created for the occasion, along with the Tourbograph Perpetual and 1815 Rattrapante. The 1815 Thin is a simple watch done well. Like the rest of the anniversary editions, the 1815 Thin has a Honeygold case, and more unusually, an enamel dial, a feature that’s rarely found on entry-level Lange watches. And for those reasons, the 1815 Thin is surprisingly good value, despite being a pricey timepiece. Initial thoughts Though it costs a substantial amount of money, the 1815 Thin is actually strong value. To start with, it’s an A. Lange & Söhne – which means sterling quality – and also a limited edition, with the case in an unusual metal, plus a dial in fired enamel. Though it’s the largest run in the anniversary line up, the 1815 Thin is a limited edition of just 175 pieces. And though Lange has made several limited editions in Honeygold – which costs substantially more than ordinary gold to machine – the cumulative number of watches in the metal is fairly small, at just over 1,000. The 175th Anniversary “Homage to F.A. Lange” trio in Honeygold – (from left) 1815 Thin, Tourbograph Perpetual, and 1815 Rattrapante Enamel dials are also uncommon for Lange, and decidedly rare in a time-only watch. The last time Lange offered a time-only watch with an enamel dial was 19 years ago with th...

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Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Line Cut SJX Watches
Richard Mille s familiar case style. But Dec 21, 2020

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Line Cut

In a departure from its usual exuberant, Technicolor style, Franck Müller’s latest creation is slim, pared back, and monochromatic. An exclusive for its stores in France, the Vanguard Line Cut is a thin time-only watch entirely in sandblasted titanium, giving it a sleek, clean look. And priced a little under €10,000, it is also affordable as such things go. Initial thoughts While most of the Vanguard models feel derivative, or a bit much, the Line Cut seems just right in size, style, and price. It’s 41 mm wide, smallish by Franck Muller standards, and under 10 mm high, giving it the wide-but-thin proportions of many popular luxury-sports watches. And the pared-back look also extends to its colours and textures – the liberal use of sandblasted titanium is clean and suits the style, resulting in an aesthetic that’s both cohesive and attractive. But its water resistance is only 30 m, which is a bit less than typical for a sports watch. Not much was provided on the FM 708 movement inside, although the Franck Muller says it was developed specifically for this watch. Cintree Curvex Descended from Franck Muller’s signature Cintree Curvex tonneau-shaped watch, the Vanguard is a sports watch that does bear some resemblance to Richard Mille’s familiar case style. But the slimness of the Line Cut brings to mind instead the earliest watches of Franck Muller, which were mostly smaller and thinner than today’s models. The titanium case measures 41 mm by 50 mm, with a...

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Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Smoked Red SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces Dec 11, 2020

Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Smoked Red

Just last year Montblanc introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph powered by a gorgeous, mono-pusher Minerva movement. Debuted in a bronze case, the watch was a hit, and for good reason, it combined attractive, well-chosen vintage details and an well-finished movement, all for a very fair price. Having unveiled several other limited-edition versions of the watch since, Montblanc is continuing with the theme with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 8, an exclusive for Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches that has a smoked, dark red dial and a titanium case. The 1858 Split Second Chronograph for Sincere Initial thoughts After the launch edition, Montblanc debuted an eight-piece limited edition in November 2019 made for Mexican watch fair Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR) that had a striking jade dial, which was followed by a hundred-piece limited edition with a stunning gradient-blue grand feu enamel dial in April of this year. And in between, it managed to put together a one-off example with an agate dial for charity auction Only Watch 2019. That makes the new Sincere edition the fifth iteration of the 1858 split seconds in less than 24 months. But fortunately it does not feel overdone – yet – given the small production runs for each version, as well as the interesting variety of dial materials. The first version of the 1858 split seconds in bronze The most obvious point of appeal of the watch is movement, which is derived from...

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Singer Reimagined Introduces the Flytrack Prime Edition SJX Watches
Singer Nov 2, 2020

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Flytrack Prime Edition

A watchmaker established by Porsche 911 “restomod” specialist Singer Vehicle Design, Singer Reimagined got off the ground with the Track 1, a chronograph with 1970s vibes that’s powered by one of the most ingenious 21st century chronograph movements. Now Singer has just taken the covers off its second model, the Flytrack Prime Edition. Essentially a condensed version of the Track 1 chronograph, the Flytrack is equipped with a constantly-running central seconds hand that can be instantaneously reset and restarted – a flyback in other words – allowing it to measure short elapsed times. Making its debut as a 30-piece “Prime Edition” in titanium, the Flytrack is powered by the AGH 9634 AgenGraphe movement, a simplified version of the full-fledged chronograph movement in the Track 1. The AGH 9634 Initial thoughts A simpler and more affordable version of the Track 1 chronograph, the Flytrack is essentially a highly complicated time-only watch. Though simpler, the Flytrack movement is still made up of 314 parts, about three times a conventional time-only movement. And despite doing away with chronograph mechanism, the movement in the Flytrack is still complex enough to be attractive in its mechanics. The Flytrack’s style and feel is very similar to the Track 1 – the case is identical in size – which means 1970s and speedometer-inspired. It’s an appealing retro look that’s executed well on the Track 1, and nearly as well on the Flytrack, save for one cav...

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Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Sep 24, 2020

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum

Best known as the watch worn by Pierce Brosnan playing James Bond, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M made its debut in 1993. But the blue-on-blue “Bond” model was not the flagship of the line. That distinction went to a chronograph composed of three metals – gold, titanium, and tantalum – an exotic and expensive combination two decades ago. The tri-metal combination (the original was the ref. 2296.80 for anyone curious) made a comeback as a time-only watch for the 25th anniversary of the Seamaster 300 M two years ago. Now, Omega has finally revealed a truer homage to the original, the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum, which stays to the aesthetics of its inspiration but refined to be more contemporary and technically advanced. Initial thoughts The original version of the tri-metal chronograph isn’t the best known variant of the Seamaster – because it was extremely expensive for the period and sold poorly – so when the time-only variant debuted in 2018, the combination of metal was rather novel. The new chronograph feels exactly like that – it is handsome and modern, but like the 1993 original, it is very expensive. In fact, it is a lot more expensive, all things considered. Priced at a little under US$20,000, the new chronograph is significantly more expensive than its steel-and-gold counterparts – by a factor of 50%. While the price tag partially justified by the unusual material combination and good looks, the new Seamaster Chr...

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 14, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph

Last year’s debut of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet was widely panned, with with most of the criticism centred on the dial that was widely regarded to be flat. That left the highlight of the new model to go unnoticed – a new case made up of an intriguing blend of geometric forms and intricate edges. Just after launching warmly-received variants with smoked dials (following last year’s Bolshoi edition in smoked-finish enamel), Audemars Piguet has taken the covers off the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, which follows the aesthetic direction set by the record-setting Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”. Initial thoughts Audemars Piguet did well in combining two classical complications – a flyback chronograph and flying tourbillon – in a surprisingly contemporary and slightly sporty watch, which owes its looks to the complementary movement and case design. The skeletonised movement echoes the clean, angular lines of the case and open-worked lugs. A newly-developed movement – and one seemingly designed from ground-up as a skeleton – the cal. 2952 is thoughtfully constructed with a neatly symmetrical layout. As important is the high-contrast finish that emphasises the skeletonisation, achieved with rhodium-plated bridges against a matte-black base plate. The styling of the watch addresses the key shortcoming of the original Code 11.59 – the plain dial – and allows the Code 11.59 to come into its own with a cohesive des...

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 9, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”

Perhaps the most interesting watches of the “Homage to F. A. Lange” 175th Anniversary collection, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” is the only watch of the trio that is a distinctly new model. The thinnest split-seconds chronograph made by Lange to date, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold is the first Lange chronograph in the gold alloy, a point of distinction enhanced by the uncommon black dial. Initial thoughts The 1815 Rattrapante is the first watch to feature the L101.2, a new movement that’s derived from the calibre in the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar. Surprisingly slim for a highly-complicated Lange, its appeal is boosted by the high-contrast black dial with gold markings – always an attractive combination but one rarely found on a Lange wristwatches. That said, it is highly likely that the 1815 Rattrapante will make its way into the regular catalogue – chief executive Wilhelm Schmid explicitly declined to comment on that – which would not make this a one-off creation. The 175th anniversary trio Streamlined split Undoubtedly the most interesting watch in the line up, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold is a brand-new model, though it is essentially a simplified version of the 1815 split-seconds with perpetual calendar. And it is the only watch in the trio that’s exclusive to Lange boutiques. Described by Mr de Haas as a split-seconds chronograph for the client who wants something slimmer and simpler than the flagship Triple Split...

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” SJX Watches
Casio n It has Sep 9, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”

The base model in the “Homage to F. A. Lange” 175th Anniversary Collection is the 1815 Thin Honeygold, a slim, time-only watch that’s a restrained, formal-dress watch. Though the simplest watch in the 175th anniversary line up, the 1815 Thin also the best variation of Lange’s ultra-thin watch. The standard version of this watch is the Saxonia Thin, a watch that’s a little staid. The anniversary “Thin”, on the other hand, has been reworked with a new, larger case as well as fired enamel dial dial – an extra rarely found on accessibly-priced Lange watches. Initial thoughts The 1815 Thin is notably appealing, not so much for its thinness, but how well it has been executed despite being minimalist. The standard Saxonia Thin is overly plain, but the 1815 Thin manages to be compelling, mainly due the slightly larger case and fired enamel dial. And the 1815 Thin is also affordable as limited edition Lange watches go. The 175th anniversary trio Simple done right Made of two parts, the enamel dial sticks to the pocket-watch inspiration of the 1815. At 38 mm by 6.3 mm, the case is slightly larger and thicker than that of the Saxonia Thin (which is 37 mm by 5.9 mm), in order to accommodate the enamel dial. The movement is the same L093.1 found in the Saxonia Thin, but as with the rest of the anniversary watches, it’s been dressed up for the occasion. It has a frosted finish on the three-quarter plate as well as black-rhodium filling for the engraving on the bala...

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Rolex Introduces the New Oyster Perpetual (in Bright Colours Too) SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Sep 1, 2020

Rolex Introduces the New Oyster Perpetual (in Bright Colours Too)

A direct descendant of the first waterproof wristwatch that debuted in 1926, the Oyster Perpetual has long been the most straightforward offering from Rolex, a fuss-free, time-only watch that still retains the brand’s quintessential technology and design. Rolex has revamped the Oyster Perpetual – now available in in 41 mm, 36 mm, 34 mm, 31 mm, and 28 mm – giving it new dials, including colourful lacquer in candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red, and green, as well as the latest generation movements for the largest sizes. But not that all colours are available in every size; candy pink for instance is available only for the 36 mm and 31 mm models. The Oyster Perpetual 36 in the new colours Initial thoughts It is heartening to see the return of fun, brightly-coloured dials on affordable models, especially in solid colours instead of being combined with quirky patterns such as the concentric decoration found on earlier generations. The bright-colour dials on the largest 41 mm model in particular make for a lively look that is very different from the usual conservative style of the Oyster. More sedate dial colours – namely metallic silver, blue, and black – are also available, but it’s the silver the stands out. In fact, the silver dial is as interesting as its colourful counterparts. The use of gilded hands and indices on silver dial in a steel watch is unusual. Add to that the pale champagne wash over the silver finish, the result is a warm look that is...

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H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Streamliner Centre Second SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Aug 26, 2020

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Streamliner Centre Second

Launched earlier this year after much teasing, the Streamliner chronograph was the first sports watch – with an integrated bracelet – from H. Moser & Cie. The Streamliner design accomplished an unusual feature: bringing to the table a unique case and bracelet style that manages to look at home with other luxury-sports watches, while being distinctive enough to avoid being derivative. With Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan having revealed additional Streamliner models were in the pipeline, the latest is not a surprise. The Steamliner Centre Second retains the same case and bracelet style of the chronograph, but as a more affordable, time-only watch. Initial thoughts Slightly smaller than the chronograph, the time-only Streamliner is 40 mm wide and 11.8 mm high, so it is fairly classical in its proportions. That also means it probably wears slightly better than the chronograph, which was already quite compact despite its measurements. And the striking green fume dial doubtlessly gives the Streamliner Centre Second a good deal of wrist presence. Priced at a little under US$22,000, the new watch is markedly more affordable, costing half as much as the chronograph. That said, the Streamliner Centre Second is pricey compared to Moser’s other steel watches. While the chronograph was well priced and compelling, mainly because it is powered by the ingenious Agenhor movement, the time-only Streamliner isn’t quite as strong a value proposition. Streamliner style Havin...

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 with Smoked Dials SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jul 3, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 with Smoked Dials

When it was launched in 2019, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet became the most-talked-about new releases of the year, and also of the most panned, largely for the way it was hyped before launch and the perceived plainness of the design. But Audemars Piguet is undeterred and affirmed its commitment to the new collection with the launch of a face-lifted Code 11.59 Selfwinding and Chronograph, featuring new dials with a smoked, graduated-colour finish, along with a variant in a two-colour gold case. The new Code 11.59 Selfwinding Initial thoughts The most frequent criticism against the Code 11.59 had to do with the rather bland dials of the base models. In contrast, the pricey, complicated models were the standouts of the collection, having fired enamel dials with a smoked finish (for the minute repeater and the flying tourbillon) or aventurine glass (for the perpetual calendar). Audemars Piguet doubtlessly realised the appeal of the smoked enamel dial, and followed up with the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition, which featured the same graduated, dark blue dial in enamel, but on a time-only watch. The downside of the enamel dial on the base model is a massive price premium of over 55%, or a bit over US$14,000. Evidence that Audemars Piguet is receptive to feedback, the new dials for the Code 11.59 show how a slight tweak can completely change the visual impact of a watch. It’s highly probable that if the Code 11.59 had been launched with smoked dials in the first plac...

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Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Classic Origin Opaline SJX Watches
Casio n Jul 2, 2020

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Classic Origin Opaline

Laurent Ferrier is 10 years old, and to make the occasion the brand is launching the Classic Origin Opaline, a time-only, hand-wound watch with a slim, titanium case. In many ways, the new watch is a minimalist take on the standard Laurent Ferrier time-only watch – the style is beautiful, restrained, and typical of the brand, with a new(ish) and significantly simpler movement inside, allowing for a fairly affordable price. Initial thoughts The Classic Origin Opaline has the much-loved Laurent Ferrier look – fluid lines and elegant forms on the case and dial. And in the usual manner of the brand, the dial is unadorned but executed with fine materials – the hands and hour indices are solid white gold. The movement, however, falls a bit short. Laurent Ferrier’s earliest movements – the LF229.01 of the Galet Micro-Rotor and the LF619.01 of the Galet Tourbillon – were best-in-class calibres that excelled in construction, finishing, and details, which unfortunately set a very high bar. But since the company entered a prolonged period of management turmoil, its movements have lost the magic. The quality is still good, but they are no longer outstanding. The LF116.01 in the new Classic Origin Opaline is essentially a variant of the movement in the annual calendar and also found in the Bridge One with a reshaped base plate and bridges. It has large bridges with simple silhouettes, as well as solid, clean finishing. Granted, a handful of the traditional Laurent Ferrier f...

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 for the New Manufacture SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 18, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 for the New Manufacture

Patek Philippe’s 1,600 employees in Geneva began migrating to its expansive new headquarters last year, and now the move is almost complete. To commemorate the completion of the new manufacture, Patek Philippe has announced its very first new launch for 2020: the Calatrava ref. 6007A-001 “New Manufacture 2019”. A limited edition of 1,000 watches, the ref. 6007A has a steel case and a grey-blue dial finished with a variety of textures, including a “carbon” pattern on its centre. Initial thoughts The new ref. 6007A confirms the chatter that Patek Philippe is in the midst of evolving the Calatrava line by injecting more contemporary flair into its aesthetics, which began with last year’s quirky ref. 5212A Weekly Calendar. Though the new ref. 6007A is a very different watch – in fact, its styling brings to mind the unique ref. 5208T “Only Watch” – it too feels like a more casual take on the classic Patek Philippe gentleman’s watch. The case is steel and relatively large at 40 mm, while the dial has a sporty, instrument-like look (which can be explained by its inspiration, the speedometer-inspired ref. 6006G). Notably, the dial has a stamped guilloche centre, which is an unusual feature for a Calatrava. And it also features applied Arabic numerals in white gold, a luxe detail for a simple watch. It will doubtlessly be a lightweight, thin watch that is easy and comfortable to wear, especially since the steel case is more hardwearing than the usual 18k go...

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Horological Society of New York responds to Coronavirus pandemic with Working Watchmakers Grant Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date last year May 17, 2020

Horological Society of New York responds to Coronavirus pandemic with Working Watchmakers Grant

The watch industry has a remarkable way of pulling together when times are tough. We see it every other year with the Only Watch auction raising money for muscular dystrophy. Jack Nicklaus auctioned his Rolex Day-Date last year to raise money for unwell children, and John Goldberger did the same with his unique white gold … ContinuedThe post Horological Society of New York responds to Coronavirus pandemic with Working Watchmakers Grant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces Apr 16, 2020

Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Enamel Dial

Just last year Montblanc unveiled the 1858 Split Second Chronograph, a Minerva-powered watch that was warmly received for being well-finished and complex, yet reasonably-priced. A retro-inspired, rattrapante mono-pusher chronograph, the watch cost US$30,000 – a solid deal as such things go. A few months after, Montblanc debuted the one-off Only Watch edition with titanium case and blue-agate dial that sold for a whopping 100,000 Swiss francs, with proceeds going to charity. The brand has now stepped things up a notch with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100 that channels the spirit of the Only Watch edition, featuring the same titanium case and paired with a fired enamel dial in graduated blue. Despite the similar styling, the new watch costs a lot less than the record-setting Only Watch Edition – but isn’t quite as good value as last year’s model. Smoky blue And that’s because while the bronze model had an ordinary dial of brass, this has been upgraded with a grand feu enamel dial, leading to a jump in the retail price of about US$7,000, which is about the typical premium for such a dial. The enamel dial starts off as a solid-gold disc, which is painted with a mixture of enamel powder, water and oil. It is then fired in an oven at over 800℃, melting the enamel powder and fusing it to the gold base. The process of adding enamel powder and firing is repeated multiple times so as to achieve the desired depth of colour. But unusually, the di...

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