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Hands On: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref 7128/1G Jul 21, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G

The polarising Cubitus collection is not yet a year old, but Patek Philippe’s newest line of elegant sports watches has expanded in a big way with the Cubitus ref. 7128/1G-001 in a new ‘medium’ 40 mm size that transforms the wearing experience for the better. With summer now in full swing, it’s worth looking at this new Cubitus and considering what it means for the future of the collection. Featuring a silky 18k white gold case and bracelet, the smaller Cubitus practically drapes itself on the wrist, and is probably the most compelling launch yet from the new collection. Also available in rose gold (ref. 7128/1R-001), the new “medium” Cubitus is a luxury sports watch in the true sense of the term, combining everyday comfort and wearability with premium materials and high-quality finishing inside and out. For better or worse, the Cubitus retains several signature elements of the Nautilus such as the embossed sunburst blue dial and lozenge-shaped hands. Initial thoughts When the Cubitus launched last year, it was decried by many spectators as an unworthy successor to the sought-after Nautilus. I freely admit I never had a strong affinity for the Nautilus, which might explain my open mind toward the Cubitus, but I really like the faceted eight-sided crystal and find the overall design about as compelling as that of its esteemed predecessor. That said, I do wish the Cubitus had more of a distinct identity of its own. In the case of the current ref. 7128/1G-001 in 1...

Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon: The Most Complicated Wristwatch Produced by Patek Philippe Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon Jul 14, 2025

Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon: The Most Complicated Wristwatch Produced by Patek Philippe

The Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon launched in platinum for the 2001 model year, the 12-complication featured two dials. Dial one was devoted to a moonphase indicator and a perpetual calendar with retrograde date display. On the sub-dial display for months, simple text promised a tourbillon regulator within the case.

Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Singer, Grand Seiko, And More Fratello
Patek Philippe Singer Grand Seiko Jul 11, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Singer, Grand Seiko, And More

It’s Friday again. Then Saturday, Sunday, what? If you recognize this, you know your music. It’s also a nice cue for our next list article with the best watches of the first half of 2025. This week, we’re focusing on our five favorite chronograph watches that came out in the past six months. Some of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Singer, Grand Seiko, And More to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Final “Surfer” - The Frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic Fratello
Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Jul 11, 2025

Hands-On With The Final “Surfer” - The Frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic

We told you to sit tight and catch that wave when it comes around. Well, surf’s up, people, because today’s the day the frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic comes out in a limited edition of 100 watches. It’s the final “Surfer” of the trilogy and your last chance to catch […] Visit Hands-On With The Final “Surfer” - The Frosty Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic to read the full article.

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Jul 7, 2025

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon

The signature complication of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking, the Spin Time is a jump hours with a twist that is now 16 years now. Earlier this year, the complication was given a major technical and aesthetic update with an all-new collection, the Tambour Taiko Spin Time, featuring a new case and a new movement family – both developed and produced in-house. The flagship model is the Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon that combines the jumping hours with a central flying tourbillon – a logical use of the peripheral arrangement of the time display. Though the most complicated (and expensive) of the line, the Flying Tourbillon has all of the key elements of the Tambour Taiko, including the redesigned case and a new movement made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Louis Vuitton’s Geneva watch manufacture. Initial thoughts Whether or not you like the watches themselves, the Tambour Taiko Spin Time collection is a statement of intent by Louis Vuitton. The brand has made substantial investment in vertical integration and manufacturing, essentially watchmaking, and the Tambour Taiko line-up is proof of that. More specifically, the family of movements that underpins the Tambour Taiko illustrates the industrial-haute horlogerie capability that Louis Vuitton has developed in a relatively short period of time, the very sort of competence required to build a high-end watch brand at scale. The movements in the Tambour Taiko collection now number three, but are all part of the s...

The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Returns with an Appetite and a Tourbillon Worn & Wound
Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Jul 3, 2025

The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Returns with an Appetite and a Tourbillon

Many watches are designed to perform specific tasks or serve specific purposes beyond telling the time. Divers have bold markers and ratcheting bezels, pilot watches are oversized and might include a second time zone, track watches feature chronographs or tachymeters, etc, and then, there’s the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eaters. Featuring a giant eyeball for the hour hand, a spinning set of teeth for the seconds, and a double-sided arm that’s giving a one-finger salute, they don’t seek to fulfill a practical purpose. Instead, I’d classify them as “memento absurdum,” which is to say, objects that remind you of the absurdity, whether in life or watch collecting. If you’re thinking, “Now, wait a second, didn’t they just come out with a new Time Eater like a few days ago?” you’d be correct. A 42mm model with a navy blue chapter ring and a darker silver than previous versions, it was a handsome, if iterative, addition. But the Time-Eater is back once again, this time with a substantial change: it now has a tourbillon. This isn’t the first time we’ve seen Louis Erard use a tourbillon movement, specifically the “affordable for a tourbillon” BCP T02 by Olivier Mory, which appeared on a few of their Alain Silberstein collabs. The Time-Eater Tourbillon (TET from here out) is basically a reedition of one of the first two Time-Eaters, which was initially introduced in either a 39mm case with a purple chapter ring, or a 42mm case with a green ch...

First Look – The Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer, Closing the Zenith x Time+Tide Surfer Trilogy Monochrome
Zenith x Time+Tide Surfer Trilogy Jul 3, 2025

First Look – The Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer, Closing the Zenith x Time+Tide Surfer Trilogy

Following the Defy Classic Skeleton Night Surfer (2021) and Defy Skyline Skeleton Night Surfer (2023), Zenith and Time+Tide now introduce the third and final chapter in their collaborative Surfer Trilogy. This latest limited edition, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic, builds on the openworked aesthetic and mechanical architecture of the existing white Defy Skyline […]

Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic Fratello
Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Jul 3, 2025

Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic

Timing is everything when it comes to surfing and buying limited-edition watches. That’s doubly true when it comes to buying a surf-themed LE timepiece. So stop slacking and pay attention because here’s the Zenith × Time & Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic. This is the third and final “Surfer” limited edition, and Zenith […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic to read the full article.

First Look – The New Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon Monochrome
Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Jul 1, 2025

First Look – The New Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon

The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon marks the evolution in the ongoing collaboration between the Swiss indie brand and master watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin. Building on the success of the previous “Time Eater” regulator models, part of Chaykin’s expressive Wristmons universe, the new model introduces a tourbillon with regulator display to the series […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Dress Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe, And More Fratello
Patek Philippe Jun 27, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Dress Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe, And More

Another Friday, another list. Freshly back from two weeks of holidays, I’d like to properly kick off our overview of the first half of the year. This week, we’ll focus on our five favorite dress watches of 2025 so far. While that may not be the first category you think of, it’s certainly a good […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Dress Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe, And More to read the full article.

Big Fish: Behind the Lens with Unique and Rare Salmon-Dialed Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendars Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendars GaryG enjoyed Jun 23, 2025

Big Fish: Behind the Lens with Unique and Rare Salmon-Dialed Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendars

GaryG enjoyed the opportunity to check out three of his friends’ rare Patek Philippe pieces, all with salmon-colored dials: Reference 5059G-018 and Reference 3940G-029 perpetual calendars from Patek Philippe’s Vintage Collection and a unique piece Reference 5270G. He shares his thoughts and stunning photos with us here.

Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One! Fratello
Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Jun 23, 2025

Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One!

Let’s start with a riddle. What has one eye, one mouth, two hands, and a rebellious soul? You got it - the Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III. The million-dollar question is whether humor belongs in luxury watchmaking, but when it looks good, it doesn’t matter if you think the watch […] Visit Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One! to read the full article.

The New Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Collection Time Only Review WatchAdvice
Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Collection Time Jun 20, 2025

The New Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Collection Time Only Review

Breitling has updated their SuperOcean Heritage Collection, and with a range of seemingly small but big changes, we’ve taken the time-only models and put them to the test! What We Love The case refinements across the range The small nods to the vintage 1957 model The new in-house B31 Calibre What We Don’t The overlapping of the rubber strap under the wrist Fewer choices when it comes to the colour combinations in rose gold The domed crystal can reflect the light on the darker dials a little Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Earlier this month, Breitling released the new look SuperOcean Heritage Collection with a suite of changes that, while looking like small incremental changes, all added up to noticeable differences across the entire range. We had a first look at these upon release, and were fortunate enough to get our hands on them for some time prior, so the whole team was able to see the changes themselves in person, and what they meant for the wearer of the new models. Sam and I flipped a coin to see who would review the time only and who would review the new chronographs. This was a coin toss with no loser, as each was a good a choice as any, and I scored the time only. So stay tuned for Sam’s review of the Chronograph in a few weeks time. Breitling’s New SuperOcean Heritage Collection Kicks Up A Swell! Initial Thoughts I’ve always said, press photos and renders don’t always do the wat...

Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone Fratello
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Jun 18, 2025

Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone

A little less than a month ago, we saw the introduction of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. The watch commemorates 100 years of Longines dual-time watches in a rather bold fashion. Its rose-gold-capped bezel and matching gold dial details set it apart from any other Spirit Zulu Time. I was immediately intrigued by this […] Visit Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone to read the full article.

Fiona Krüger Introduces the Forget Time Mystery Box Clock SJX Watches
Patek Philippe introduced Jun 9, 2025

Fiona Krüger Introduces the Forget Time Mystery Box Clock

When all eyes were focused on the novelties from the big brands at Watches & Wonders, designer Fiona Krüger was quietly previewing a mysterious clock that questions the nature of time itself. Part haute horlogerie, part objet d’art, the Forget Time clock was developed in collaboration with Denis Flageollet’s clockmaking workshop at the De Bethune manufacture. The concept for the Forget Time clock was inspired by the work of Dr Carlo Rovelli, an Italian theoretical physicist who has written several books about the nature of time. The clock and its movement exist concealed within a wooden cube that’s been embellished with wood marquetry. The mysterious looking box opens at the touch of a button to reveal the clock within. Initial thoughts We’re nearly halfway through 2025, and one of this year’s trends is becoming clear: clocks are having a moment. In just the past month, the Breguet Sympathique No. 1 sold for more than US$6 million, while the almost mythical Cartier Portico Clock No. 3, which recently emerged for the first time in decades, hammered for north of US$4 million. Even Patek Philippe introduced a million-dollar desk clock. And with a certain brand turning 250 years old this year, we might not be done with clocks yet. In this context, the launch of the Forget Time feels opportune, though Dr Rovelli would probably argue this feeling is due to the limits of my own human perception. Such is the inspiration for the clock, which was designed by Ms Kruger and...

Why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is King: A Collector Weighs In Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus Jun 9, 2025

Why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is King: A Collector Weighs In

After reading article after article discussing the virtues of Patek Philippe's Nautilus, it became clear to watch enthusiast and Quill & Pad reader Perry Heim that none stated a self-evident truth that appears obvious to him. In this "letter to the editor" Perry explains in detail what he finds so appealing about the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711. And he stacks the Nautilus up against some serious contemporary contenders.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Vs. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Fratello
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Jun 8, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Vs. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a coffee and another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we chose two newer versions of watches that we pitted against each other back in 2022 and 2023. The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT came out last year and is the smaller and slimmer version of […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Vs. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT to read the full article.

Hands-On With The 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus - The Hate Ends Now Fratello
Patek Philippe Cubitus - May 26, 2025

Hands-On With The 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus - The Hate Ends Now

It’s OK; you don’t have to like the Patek Philippe Cubitus - ever. You can carry your vitriol around like a badge of honor and scream to the heavens. That’s fine, but if you choose to do so, you’ll miss a pretty damn decent watch. We can agree that the 45mm original was and is […] Visit Hands-On With The 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus - The Hate Ends Now to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref 5328G May 8, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G

One of several strong new releases from Patek Philippe this year, the Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G is a simple day-date watch distinguished by an all-new manually wound, eight-day movement. Carrying on the contemporary aesthetic of the Calatrava ref. 5226G and Annual Calendar ref. 5326G, the new watch features a grained fumé dial and an 18k white gold case with a middle fully encircled with clous de Paris guilloche. The ref. 5238G is purposeful in its design, which gives it a casual, almost tool watch-like appearance that offers a pleasing contrast to its overtly luxurious case and movement. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe put on a good show at Watches & Wonders this year, and the ref. 5328G might be my favourite of the bunch. The watch has a strong presence thanks to its hobnail case band and instrument-like dial, but it really stands out when you turn the watch over and see the vintage-inspired bridge architecture. Patek Philippe is usually pretty utilitarian when it comes to movement design, so it’s nice to see them let their hair down and have some fun with this one. The fumé navy blue dial features an asphalt-like texture first seen on the ref. 5226G introduced in 2022. The ref. 5328G also benefits from this predecessor’s lumed syringe hands and clean Arabic numerals, which give it the earnest, purposeful feel of a deck watch. Patek Philippe is not known for its typographical expertise, but here even the numerals on the date ring strike the right tone. The watch f...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only May 6, 2025

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”

While the most valuable lot at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction will likely be the Breguet Sympathique clock no. 1, the sale also includes a few unexpected and interesting lots. One standout is the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”, a unique piece created for the Only Watch charity auction in 2019. Consigned by the original owner – who is a prominent collector whom I greatly respect – the Spin Time is a flamboyant, gem-set take on Louis Vuitton’s signature complication. The centrepiece is a miniature enamel dial by Anita Porchet depicting a motif inspired by tattoo art. This unique Spin Time originally sold for CHF280,000 at Only Watch 2019. Now carrying an estimate of CHF40,000-80,000, the watch will go on the block at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 10, 2025. Initial thoughts I was a fan of this Spin Time when it was first revealed in 2019. In fact, I bid on it at Only Watch, but I was laughably uncompetitive and far from the CHF280,000 hammer. In contrast to the latest generation of Spin Time that is both refined and discreet, this watch is over the top and I like it because of that. The aesthetic is a lot, maybe too much, but it works. Most importantly, the watch is not just about extravagant styling. The dial is the work of Anita Porchet herself, combining both miniature painting and champleve. Certainly the motif is not for everyone, but the quality of craft is unmistakeable. A rose among the thorns This unique Spin Time...

Highlights: A Noteworthy Trio from Patek Philippe at Phillips Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe May 5, 2025

Highlights: A Noteworthy Trio from Patek Philippe at Phillips Geneva

It’s hard to stand out among the 194-lots in Phillips’ incredibly stacked upcoming Geneva auction. The catalog for The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI includes 36 watches from Patek Philippe, including familiar favorites like two ref. 5004s and an assortment of Nautilus and Aquanaut models. But three watches are especially notable. These highlights are led by the only known ref. 3448 “Padellone” perpetual calendar in pink gold – a retailer-signed example at that – followed by a landmark “grand” complication with Hagmann case, and a Beyer-signed pocket watch with a portal to Amsterdam on the back. The auction takes place on May 10 and 11, 2025, at the Hotel President Wilson in Geneva. Lot 74: Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in pink gold signed “Freccero” Patek Philippe’s first self-winding perpetual calendar, the ref. 3448, was primarily made in yellow or white gold – except for this example in pink gold. Besides the unique case material, this also has a retailer-signed dial. In addition, it’s in incredible condition, with unpolished lugs so sharp you could almost cut yourself. It features an early “second series” dial, with a “dimple” style minute track and engraved, enamelled markings. Even though the movement inside the ref. 3448 is one of the most beautiful automatics ever made, the cal. 27-460 doesn’t skate by on pretty privilege. The calibre is technically competent: with a free-sprung gyro-max balance, overcoil hairspring, and Patek Philippe’...

Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref 5328G Apr 30, 2025

Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G

In true Watches and Wonders tradition, Patek Philippe graced us with a string of new introductions. The Genevan brand unveiled 14 new wrist watches and a unique desk clock this year. Among them, there are always standouts. The big release for this year was not a highly complicated timepiece or a new addition to the […] Visit Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 27000M Complicated Desk Clock SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 27000M Complicated Desk Apr 30, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 27000M Complicated Desk Clock

Patek Philippe’s Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001 is the biggest release of Watches & Wonders 2025, with a footprint of 164.6 by 125 mm, and rising to 76.73 mm at its apex. Priced at an even CHF1 million before taxes, the clock is powered by a key-wound, 31-day movement – incorporating a one-second remontoir d’egalite – housed in a wedge-shaped sterling silver cabinet, decorated with green flinqué enamel. Initial thoughts While we’ve seen desk and table clocks from others in the space, none have been as incredibly high-effort as this. Patek Philippe claims the 912-part shaped caliber took seven years of development, including nine patent applications. That’s quite the investment in a product with limited mainstream appeal, and I find it reassuring that Patek Philippe is still willing to make those investments. The enamel work is enchanting and has precedent in early 20th-century silver travel clocks retailed by Cartier, among others. I could take or leave the baroque styling, but the dial and hidden “dashboard” look fantastic. I hope Patek Philippe will offer this movement in other styles down the road. If you’ve never experienced a key-winding watch or clock, it’s quite satisfying; I wouldn’t call it fun, but it’s not something you’re likely to get sick of. It’s an experience you can’t get with Patek Philippe’s other current production clocks, which use an electric motor to wind the movement without need of human intervention. The b...