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In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Twenty twenty-one Jan 15, 2024

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001

Twenty twenty-one was an important year for Grand Seiko as it saw the introduction of the brand’s latest-generation mechanical movement, the cal. 9SA5. A modern movement with attractive aesthetic and proprietary escapement, the cal. 9SA5 debuted in the Heritage “White Birch” SLGH005. But Grand Seiko didn’t stop there. Building upon the flagship calibre, Grand Seiko created the cal. 9SC5 and launched the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. A large, sporty watch but entirely in lightweight titanium, the Tentagraph is a milestone for Grand Seiko (GS) as the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph. “Tentagraph” is self-explanatory, an acronym outlining the key features of the watch and cal. 9SC5 within: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph has all the tactile features expected in a modern, high-spec sports chronograph, namely substantial proportions and crisp, smooth pusher action. As expected for GS, it boasts high quality finishing inside and out, with the case in particular having category-leading finishing and detailing. And from a technical perspective, it is notable for being the high-frequency chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market – the balance runs at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and the power reserve is 72 hours, or three days. Aesthetically, the Tentagraph is refreshingly modern. It retains the characteristic GS design, but tweaked to accentuate the sport...

Why I Bought It: The Zenith Chronomaster Tribute to Charles Vermot – Reprise Quill & Pad
Zenith Chronomaster Tribute Jan 13, 2024

Why I Bought It: The Zenith Chronomaster Tribute to Charles Vermot – Reprise

Quentin R. Bufogle could go on and on about the Zenith Chronomaster Tribute to Charles Vermot’s stunningly beautiful, metallic blue dial, silicon escapement (visible via the open heart feature), COSC chronometer certification and that it’s one of the last truly great Chronomasters, but that would be missing the point, i.e. how Charles Vermot saved Zenith.

In-Depth – The Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF in Titanium, And What High-Frequency Means Monochrome
Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF Jan 5, 2024

In-Depth – The Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF in Titanium, And What High-Frequency Means

In 2012, Chopard made waves with the introduction of the L.U.C 8HF, featuring the groundbreaking L.U.C 01.06-L calibre with a silicon escapement, oscillating at an impressive 8Hz (57,600 vibrations/hour), double the speed of most mechanical movements. Notably, it became the first high-frequency calibre to receive chronometer certification, marking a significant milestone. Encouraged by this success, […]

Hands-on – The Updated and Captivating new Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Models Monochrome
Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Models Jan 4, 2024

Hands-on – The Updated and Captivating new Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Models

In 2016, Glashütte Original unveiled the Senator Excellence series, an offspring of the more considerable Senator collection distinguished by a subtly modern and elegant aesthetic. Along with the series, the brand introduced the in-house Calibre 36, featuring a silicon balance spring, a substantial 100-hour power reserve, and chronometer-grade timekeeping. This innovative movement was the foundation […]

Seiko Releases a Pair of Colorful Seiko 5 Sports GMT LEs for the Asian Market Worn & Wound
Seiko Releases Jan 2, 2024

Seiko Releases a Pair of Colorful Seiko 5 Sports GMT LEs for the Asian Market

In the spring of 2022, nearly overshadowed by the launch of a certain celestially inspired plastic quartz chronograph, Seiko introduced the Seiko 5 Sports GMT. A watch that brought mechanical GMT movements to the masses. Previously, the least expensive mechanical GMT watches were well north of four figures. Since then, there has been a flutter of affordable GMTs, but very few can match Seiko’s incredible value proposition. In the months following the initial release, there have been a few added color variants and just in time to end 2023 with a bang, Seiko is introducing two new pieces. The Thong Sia Limited Editions exclusive to Malaysia, Brunei, Hong Kong, Macau, and Singapore. They will be restricted to 1000 pieces in each colorway. The Ice Blue SSK029 features a light blue/white dial, with blue hour, minute and second hands, and a red GMT hand. The bezel is a combination of black and blue. The Passion Red SSK031 is, as you can imagine, quite the opposite of the latter model. Featuring a deep red dial, with steel hour, minute and second hands, and a gold GMT hand. This one has a red and black bezel.  These watches will be available from January 2024 and are limited to the Asian markets referenced above. Like all regional releases, they’ll undoubtedly pop up in the usual second hand and international retail outlets where watches like this can often be found shortly after becoming available, so be on the lookout if you’re interested in collecting some of the more h...

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 22, 2023

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches

Deck the halls with straps and spring bars! Well… maybe. ‘Tis the season for giving and you may be wondering if you should gift a special someone their first timepiece. It just so happens that gifted watches can be surprisingly controversial. It doesn’t seem that a token of affection for someone in your life, especially around the holidays, would be complicated. Yet, type “watches as gifts” in your favorite search engine, and you’re sure to see long lists of debates on this topic. The rationale ranges from cultural superstition to practical concerns about preferred tastes and styles. It’s certainly worth considering your position on these perspectives before parting with one of your own watches or diving into a purchase on behalf of a loved one. However, I’m here to provide some personal insight into this conversation and perhaps convince you to take a chance on the prospective horologist in your life this season. My collecting journey began just over two years ago when I received a hand-me-down watch from a friend. I was, then, a graduate student unaware of the watchbox-free counter space I was taking for granted. I hadn’t critically considered watches before, but knew I was drawn to material “stuff.” My apartment was filled with hundreds of books I’d accumulated over the years along with MOLLE-paneled backpacks, knives, sports equipment, and various trinkets I had used (or might one day use) in my adventures. I gravitated toward things I knew were...

A Watchmaker’s Technical Look at the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire: A Dual-Balance Watch with a Difference – Reprise Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire Dec 12, 2023

A Watchmaker’s Technical Look at the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire: A Dual-Balance Watch with a Difference – Reprise

The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire has captivated everybody with the mesmerizing appearance of its twin balances and the unusual, long, sinuous, grey spring gently oscillating along the middle of the watch. 'The Horological Journal' editor and watchmaker Justin Koullapis asks the question, "Does it live up to the hyperbole?"

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes! – Reprise Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon Dec 6, 2023

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes! – Reprise

As Joshua Munchow swiped through posts on Instagram one day, he was stopped in his tracks, toothbrush dangling from his gaping mouth, eyes wide, and one singular thought running through his head as he stared at his phone: Grand Seiko doesn’t make movements like this. This is an avant-garde tourbillon movement with a constant force escapement and incredible, exposed mechanics! What in the world . . .?! Meet the T0.

The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new Aug 17, 2023

The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry

This new Grand Seiko 44GS steel Spring Drive trio uses katana artistry as a muse for their dials The SBGA489 and SBGA491 introduce a new dial texture inspired by Japanese tamahagane steel The SBGA493, a limited edition of 500 pieces, has a fiery red dial that encapsulates the emanating sparks from the forging of a … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Roger Dubuis Combines the Inclined Balance and Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Richard Mille which Jul 21, 2023

Roger Dubuis Combines the Inclined Balance and Flyback Chronograph

One of the latest releases from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, makes the most of its openworked dial to show off a newly-developed calibre, the RD780, which combines an inclined balance wheel with an integrated chronograph. A complex movement with two patents pending, the RD780 is notably elaborate with unusual features like a digital minute counter and twin barrels. And technically-minded enthusiasts will also note the RD780 boasts diamond-coated silicon escapement parts, which are both wear- and magnetism-resistant. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current chronographs distinguish themselves through bold design and flashy technical features. While the style is outlandish, it is refreshing to see this unique approach to a chronograph design, particularly since the technical features are novel and interesting, such as the inclined balance wheel and column wheel, visible through the openworked dial. But the Excalibur chronograph’s technical merits are perhaps overshadowed by the design, which is excessive in a hyper-mechanical style. The chronograph’s dial is busy, even for an openworked dial. It is not easy to read, even when compared to what is being offered by the likes of Richard Mille, which is perhaps the closest comparison to the Excalibur chronograph. The Excalibur chronograph is priced at US$101,500, making it more affordable than the equivalent from Richard Mille, the RM 72-01. In fact, the Excalibur is half as expensive as the Richar...

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts Jun 13, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9

Grand Seiko is well-known for a wide array of dial expressions, faceted case geometries, handsome Zaratsu finishing, and, of course, their proprietary Spring Drive system. But as one of few truly vertically integrated manufactures, Grand Seiko does have one glaring gap in their catalogue: complications. Yes, Grand Seiko has previously presented GMT watches and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: The Imperial Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned May 20, 2023

Up Close: The Imperial Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

With the Geneva auctions just having concluded, the spring sale season now moves to Hong Kong. The biggest event during auction week in the city will undoubtedly The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, an evening sale that take places at Phillips on May 23. The auction gets its name from the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96QL in platinum once owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last Emperor of China. Known to the market for several years but now going under the hammer for the first time, the watch might emerge as the year’s most valuable watch sold at auction – or it might not, given the mixed reputation of the final Qing Emperor. But regardless of the value, the Puyi’s Patek Philippe is an exceptionally interesting watch, both intrinsically and in terms of provenance. The provenance Phillips pulled out all the stops in marketing The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, no doubt an attempt to reach an audience beyond watch collectors. While the ref. 96QL is an exceedingly rare watch – and worth millions on its own – the provenance of this example is bona fide “Imperial”. The story of the watch is ably told in a documentary produced by Phillips especially for the auction. The 17-minute film explains how the life and times of Puyi, his fascination with timepieces, and importantly, how the ref. 96QL ended up in the possession of a Russian translator. Amongst the interviewees in the film is Russell Working, an American journalist who once profiled the Russian translator, Georgy Pe...

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts We round May 18, 2023

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having concluded its Geneva sales that included an F.P. Journe thematic auction, Christie’s will soon open its spring sale season in Hong Kong. The auctioneer’s watch offerings include an impressive line-up of watches assembled over two decades by an Asian collector. Christened The Ultimate Collection, the selection is composed of 107 timepieces – almost all modern – ranging from Rolex to F.P. Journe. Although the watches are diverse, the collector’s keen eye can be discerned. The catalogue includes classic must-haves like various examples of the Rolex Daytona and GMT-Master II, but also rare and special watches from F.P. Journe as well as possibly-unique Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts. We round up nine notable picks from the sale, including the headline lots from F.P. Journe – a Chronomètre à Résonance “RTA” with a mother-of-pearl dial and the Tourbillon Souverain Coeur de Rubis. The “Coeur de Rubis” dial Other highlights including a Patek Philippe Dome Clock that was originally owned by Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot and Blancpain fame, along with uncommon variants of the landmark Lange 1, including the Lange 1A and ref. 101.027X. The Ultimate Collection takes place on May 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) – the catalogue is available here. Lot 2537 – F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Anniversaire “Hong Kong”  In 2016, F.P. Journe marked the 10th anniversary of its first ever boutique (which was in Tokyo) with the ...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille May 16, 2023

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips kicks off its spring sale season in Hong Kong with the first watch auction to take place at its recently inaugurated regional headquarters in the West Kowloon Cultural District. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI is a 248-lot sale with a strong representation of contemporary independent watchmaking, including the cover lot, a Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain I in pink gold – the first example of this coveted watch to emerge at auction. Amongst the other offerings going on the block are works from prominent names like Kari Voutilainen and F.P. Journe. The sale includes under appreciated gems such as a Parmigiani Toric Chronograph from the early 2000s and a unique Atelier de Chronométrie featuring a gilt dial. And there’s also a unique Richard Mille that was once owned by a Brazilian footballer Bobby Firmino. The auction takes place on May 24 (lots 801-925) and May 25 (lots 926-1048). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed here. The cover lot of the sale Lot 832: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I (RRCC I) One of the top lots – maybe even the top lot – of the sale is the first example of the Chronomètre Contemporain by Rexhep Rexhepi. As we detailed in our review of the prototype, the RRCC I is a gentleman’s wristwatch in the mould of mid-20th century Swiss chronometers.  With its distinct arched lugs and enamel dial, the RRCCI is instantly recognisable despite its classical styling. Notably, the enamel dial is made of tw...

First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? Time+Tide
Rolex novelties hit May 14, 2023

First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit?

No matter how exquisite the finishing, how innovative the escapement, or how beautiful the colour of the dial, unfortunately these days the worth of a watch can be far more literal in the eyes of the broader marketplace. Outside of the scope of die-hard watch geekdom, a watch is only alluring as its value on … ContinuedThe post First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch May 12, 2023

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon”

The Geneva spring auction season kicks off soon and as expected, most of the weekend’s highlights are the usual timepieces from establishment brands and independent watchmakers, including one that is a mix of both, the Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch made by Philippe Dufour. But one of the season’s most intriguing lot is altogether different – the Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” that’ll go under the hammer at Antiquorum. Both intriguing and quirky, the ref. 1252 “Chameleon” is essentially a sculptural bracelet that happens to have a small, manual-wind movement installed. While such bracelet wristwatches are common for jewellers like Cartier and Bulgari, the “Chameleon” is decidedly unconventional for Patek Philippe. Made in the late 1940s, this example of the “Chameleon” is only the second one known. The first example resides in the Patek Philippe Museum as inventory no. P-107. The “Chameleon” is perhaps more object than timekeeper. It has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000 – arguably not so much for a sculptural Patek Philippe of which only two are known, or a pricey, oddball ladies’ watch. But it is unquestionably interesting and perhaps one of the most intriguing objects on the block this weekend. The “Chameleon” is lot 450 and has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000. Its archive extract has been ordered and is pending according to Antiquorum. For more, visit Antiquorum.com.  

The New Timex T80 Hyperbrights are Both Hyper and Bright, Making them Perhaps the Most Perfectly Named Watches of the Year Worn & Wound
Timex T80 Hyperbrights are Both May 2, 2023

The New Timex T80 Hyperbrights are Both Hyper and Bright, Making them Perhaps the Most Perfectly Named Watches of the Year

Pardon the pun, but some things in the watch industry tend to happen like clockwork. Every spring, brands seem to understand that a selection of bright colors is going to put us in just the right mood heading into the warmer months, and we see releases from brands across the horological map opting for a rainbow of pastels and brighter tones that make you want to get outdoors, smell the flowers, fight your allergies, and all of the other springtime rituals we can’t get enough of. I’m not complaining: I love color, and I especially love thawing out of those long New Hampshire winters, so a release like the new Timex T80 Hyperbrights just puts a smile on my face. The Hyperbrights collection takes the classic T80 format and puts it through what is almost a psychedelic lens. What we have here are a trio of watches, each featuring a multi-tone dial and gradient resin straps that shifts from the dominant color to adjacent hues as it wraps around the wrist. The Blue Haze features a stainless steel case and complementary tones of light blue and green, and the Purple Haze is the latest watch to include what I think is clearly the color of the moment, along with darker tones of blue. Rounding out the trio we get the Pink Haza, which matches elements of the strap to the gold tone case for a rich, warm look.  Timex does a great job of introducing new concepts and themes through watches that are familiar, and that’s exactly what they’ve done here, taking an 80s classic like the...

Highlights: The Notable and Interesting at Christie’s Dubai Online Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref 4100BA Apr 24, 2023

Highlights: The Notable and Interesting at Christie’s Dubai Online Auction

Christie’s kicks off the spring auction season with Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, a 136-lot sale taking place entirely online. Featuring a diverse selection of watches, the sale by big-ticket items like a Richard Mille RM 69 tourbillon and a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/111P with a sapphire-set bezel. But the sale also encompasses some unusual and interesting timepieces that are worth a second look, including the Richard Mille RM 36-01 with a G-force sensor and a Grand Seiko 8-Days produced by the same workshop responsible for the better-known Credor Eichi. Some lots are uniquely reflective of the Middle East: amongst them is the Gerald Genta Octo Mosaic with a perpetual calendar in Eastern-Arabic script and a Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse gentleman’s set of a solid-gold lighter and cufflinks enamelled with the flag of Oman. A Royal Oak with the signature of Sheikh Mohammed of Dubai under 12 o’clock where the brand name typically is Watches Online: The Dubai Edit takes place online from April 24 to May 4. All the watches will be on show at the same time in the preview exhibition in the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found on Christies.com. Lot 1: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 4100BA “Sheikh Mohammed” One of the sale’s headline lots is an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 4100BA that, from a distance, looks like an ordinary mid-sized version of the emblematic sports watch. But up close this exa...

Hands-On: Horage Lensman 1 Worn & Wound
Bremont s ENG300 calibers Eventually Apr 21, 2023

Hands-On: Horage Lensman 1

Horage is a bit of an oddity in the watch world. Most brands build for years and years to be able to produce even a simple three-hand movement, should they even choose to go that route, and they tend to demand a high price. Horage has been working on theirs since its inception and has maintained a goal of industrialization over high prices starting with the K1, which had a silicon escapement and a modular complication system back at launch. Though it didn’t get the attention it deserved initially, it did inevitably ascend the horology ranks and prove its viability, as the K1 serves as the basis of Bremont’s ENG300 calibers. Eventually, Horage added the micro-rotor wound K2, featured in the Supersede. Another rarity, in addition to being thin, as micro-rotors tend to be, the K2 also featured modular design allowing for complications without increasing the base movement’s thickness by much, as well as a silicon escapement, 72-hour power reserve, and within chronometer accuracy. Another movement that would be impressive coming from a large luxury group, let alone an independent brand like Horage. While neither are small feats, today we’re looking at a watch with a movement that is perhaps even more impressive. The Lensman 1 features the K-TOU caliber, which is Horage’s in-house, Swiss-made tourbillon. Yes, you read that right. And the watch, despite featuring such a rare and exotic complication, comes in at under $10k. There’s a lot more to the watch as well, whic...

The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) Showcases Watchmaking’s Past & Future Revolution
Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Apr 6, 2023

The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) Showcases Watchmaking’s Past & Future

Wei and Jeremiah take a closer look at Revolution’s latest collaboration with Frederique Constant, a brand whose mission is to bring luxury to a wider audience. In 2021, Frederique Constant introduced the Slimline Monolithic, a watch that replaced all 26 components of the oscillator and escapement, instead employing a single silicon disc as the regulating […]

Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom Apr 4, 2023

Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026

Grand Seiko makes the most of their gorgeous cherry blossom-inspired dial, this time in a rose-gold case The SBGY026 will appeal to the smaller-wristed, measuring in at 38.5mm in diameter and just 43.7mm lug-to-lug A manually wound Spring Drive 9R31 movement keeps the watch slim at just a smidge over 10mm It’s safe to say … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.