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Five of Ricardo’s favourites from Windup Watch Fair NYC 2022 Time+Tide
Oct 29, 2022

Five of Ricardo’s favourites from Windup Watch Fair NYC 2022

This past week, New York City became the centre of the watch world as it hosted two major watch events. One of those, Windup Watch Fair, was hosted by our friends over at Worn & Wound. Spread across 14,000 square feet, dozens of brands displayed their creations, offering guest first looks and a direct buying … ContinuedThe post Five of Ricardo’s favourites from Windup Watch Fair NYC 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Collector’s Guide: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 28, 2022

Collector’s Guide: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

Undoubtedly the most unusual wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne – and perhaps the brand’s most intriguing – the Zeitwerk is digital but entirely mechanical. Thirteen years after the first model made its debut and became a landmark in modern watchmaking, Lange has just unveiled the all-new, second-generation Zeitwerk. Gently redesigned but substantially improved, the second-generation model brings the total number of Zeitwerk models to ten (totalling 17 references) from 2009 to now. What follows is a look at every single Zeitwerk reference, including rarely-seen limited editions and a little-known unique piece (save for the unique example never publicly announced by Lange). It’s intended to be be a clear and concise guide covering every single model, one that details the varied functions, decoration, and changes across variants. The latest-generation Zeitwerk movement, still recognisable thanks to the remontoir bridge A brief history Before we dive into the watches, it’s important to understand how the Zeitwerk came along and its significance in modern watchmaking. Like much else created by Lange, the Zeitwerk has its roots in historical watchmaking in Saxony. The Zeitwerk’s digital display takes its cues from the five-minute clock sitting over the stage in the Dresden’s Semper Opera. And like much else in historical Saxon watchmaking, the clock is related to A. Lange & Söhne. The clock maker behind the opera timekeeper, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes,...

Exhibition: ‘Spring Sprang Sprung’ in Singapore SJX Watches
Atelier Wen Oct 27, 2022

Exhibition: ‘Spring Sprang Sprung’ in Singapore

An exhibition focused on “microbrands”, Spring Sprang Sprung takes place in Singapore from October 28-30, 2022. Happening at XM Studio, a workshop best known for its hand-made comic figurines, the exhibition encompasses 21 watch brands and a leather goods maker. The exhibition was the brainchild of local retailer Red Army Watches (RAW) and Singapore-based micro brand Feynman Timekeepers. Exhibiting brands include Havaan Tuvali, Vario, and Atelier Wen. The flagship wristwatch from Feynman with a hand-made cloisonné enamel dial Dive watches in bronze from Zelos A city state that boasts a high density of high-end watch collectors, Singapore also has a thriving community of enthusiasts who cherish fun and inexpensive timepieces. In fact, several micro brands have emerged from Singapore, such as Feynman and Zelos. The appreciation of micro brands has been developed in large part by RAW, long a proponent of affordable watchmaking. With stores in Singapore, Malaysia, and Brunei, RAW carries a range of micro brands, including several that are showing at Spring Sprang Sprung. It was RAW founder Sugiharto Kusumadi and Yong Keong Lim, the founder of Feymann, who provided the impetus for the exhibition. The Vario Popeye jumping hour The Atelier Wen Perception with a hand-made guilloche dial Spring Sprang Sprung takes place October 28-30 at XM Studios in Singapore. It is open to public daily from 11:00 am-6:00 pm, except for Sunday when it closes at 5:00 pm. Admission is fre...

How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…) Time+Tide
Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their Oct 26, 2022

How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…)

Jacob & Co don’t really make watches. What they specialise in is wrist-bound manifestations of the American Dream. The brand’s watches tend to be buried alive in diamonds or tricked out in mind-boggling complications. Sometimes they combine both at the same time. You can’t describe them as mere status symbols. They’re more like flashing neon … ContinuedThe post How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new 5711 successor - the 5811/1G Nautilus - is a bit of a letdown. But it is our fault, not Patek’s Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711 which Oct 25, 2022

The new 5711 successor - the 5811/1G Nautilus - is a bit of a letdown. But it is our fault, not Patek’s

“Anticipation, I suppose, sometimes exceeds realisation,” Amelia Earhart once said. Ever since the final swan song of the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711, which, at times felt like a never-ending Elton John farewell tour, the rumour mill instantly began swirling. Everybody had predictions – a 6711 in titanium perhaps, or a return to a two-handed … ContinuedThe post The new 5711 successor – the 5811/1G Nautilus – is a bit of a letdown. But it is our fault, not Patek’s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai CEO reveals why Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson is such a die-hard fan of the brand Time+Tide
Panerai CEO reveals why Dwayne Oct 23, 2022

Panerai CEO reveals why Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson is such a die-hard fan of the brand

“Finally, the Super Bowl has come back to Los Angeles,” boomed Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson as he hyped up the crowd at SoFi Stadium ahead of the clash between the Los Angeles Rams and the Cincinnati Bengals. “It’s time for all of us here and millions around the world to bear witness to these incredible … ContinuedThe post Panerai CEO reveals why Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson is such a die-hard fan of the brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811 Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2022

“We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811

During the farewell tour of the 5711 Nautilus, we were led to believe the model was bidding adieu from the catalogue – at least in its time and date only configuration. It was a bit of a drawn-out goodbye, with a final run of green dial 5711 watches that were then followed by a limited-edition … ContinuedThe post “We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My top 5 picks from the latest Ineichen auction Time+Tide
Oct 20, 2022

My top 5 picks from the latest Ineichen auction

At Time+Tide, we love a good auction. The thrill of the bids and the hunt for the bargains make them by far the most exciting way to go watch shopping, and there’s often some interesting and alluring products lining the catalogues. Zach and Ricardo have previously had their turns with Ineichen, but now it’s my … ContinuedThe post My top 5 picks from the latest Ineichen auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 17, 2022

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...

Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President Time+Tide
Richard Mille there These are snapshots Oct 15, 2022

Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President

Celebrity watchspotting can be a bit trivial at times – a Royal Oak here, a Richard Mille there. These are snapshots of individuals who have made it and have the means and access to strap any watch to their wrist that they desire. Which is why it is that much more interesting to hear the … ContinuedThe post Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Three ways that heritage reissues can differ from real vintage watches Time+Tide
Oct 13, 2022

Three ways that heritage reissues can differ from real vintage watches

At this rate it seems like we’ll end up with more vintage reissues in the world than actual vintage watches, if that’s not already the case. We started out with homages and vintage-inspired watches, then moved towards the meticulous and accurate recreations, before the current era of watches that look old no matter what vibrant … ContinuedThe post Three ways that heritage reissues can differ from real vintage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Formula 1 X Mario Kart SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Oct 13, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Formula 1 X Mario Kart

With a near-unparalleled history in auto racing, TAG Heuer’s latest is a light-hearted take on its storied past. Inspired by the famous plumber now driving a go-kart, the Formula 1 X Mario Kart pair are both limited-edition chronographs, each opposing ends of the price spectrum. The base model is the Formula 1 X Mario Kart Chronograph with an “Easter egg” date display, while the top-of-the-line model is a variant of TAG Heuer’s tourbillon-chronograph with the COSC-certified Calibre Heuer 02T movement. Initial thoughts Pop culture adds levity to mechanical watchmaking and usually enhances the appeal, which is why the approach is a familiar one. Gerald Genta did it, and more recently RJ-Romain Jerome. TAG Heuer did it for the first time last year with the Connected × Super Mario that sold out swiftly, proving the appeal of the Italian plumber. But the Connected was a smartwatch, while the pair of new releases are both mechanical, so they have appeal for watch enthusiasts. The Formula 1 Chronograph is basic but affordable, and livened up by subtle-but-clever Mario elements, like a date display with symbols from the game instead of numerals. The Formula 1 chronograph The tourbillon, on the other hand, is essentially an amusingly whimsical iteration of TAG Heuer’s standard tourbillon-chronograph, while not costing that much more, making it a more compelling proposition than the somewhat plain regular-production model. Mario around the track Inspired by the Nintendo...

VIDEO: Smash and grab theft of MoonSwatch suitcase the latest symptom of watch crime epidemic Time+Tide
Oct 12, 2022

VIDEO: Smash and grab theft of MoonSwatch suitcase the latest symptom of watch crime epidemic

During the early hours of Monday morning, there was a brazen smash-and-grab raid at the Swatch store in Amsterdam. After forcing entry, a hooded man broke into a glass cabinet and made off with the window-display suitcase containing the entire BIOCERAMIC MoonSwatch collection. Police were called to the crime scene but, at the time of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Smash and grab theft of MoonSwatch suitcase the latest symptom of watch crime epidemic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Release: IWC’s Mark XX edition Deployant
IWC s Mark XX edition Oct 8, 2022

New Release: IWC’s Mark XX edition

The IWC Mark XX is a highly wearable military timepiece with simplicity and functionality at its core. It has 120 hours power reserve which is significantly more than the average 3 days movement today. You may recall that the designers took their inspiration from the 1930s Junkers Ju 52 cockpit instruments, which have served as the model for classic pilot’s watches. The displays are round, generously sized and clearly arranged. The Arabic figures, big and round, stand proudly in position, with just two exceptions: instead of a “12”, we see a white triangle with a single dot on either side for better legibility, and at “3 o’clock” a date window, as a concession to modernity. The 40mm watch is well sized without being bulky at 10.8mm, uses contrasting dial and displays come very close to the ideal of the classic pilot’s watch. The watch is priced at US$5250 on leather and US$6150 on bracelet.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Manime La F is a watch dedicated to the theme of friendship Time+Tide
Oct 3, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Manime La F is a watch dedicated to the theme of friendship

The most popular watches at the moment are often surrounded by a contextual suffering. Military watches have quite a dark theme, and you could make the argument that dive watches are also the embodiment of surviving harsh conditions. In practice, most watch fans use their watches as extensions of their own tastes instead of life-or-death … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Manime La F is a watch dedicated to the theme of friendship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video Time+Tide
Sep 29, 2022

Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video

At Time+Tide we love a good ambassador and brand pairing. I even recently prompted the team to participate in a Fantasy Watch Ambassador Draft, matching up celebs who have never been watch ambassadors with various brands. Ambassadors irrefutably draw attention to the brands they represent and, when done properly, create a cultural imprint that ultimately … ContinuedThe post Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rado DiaStar Celebrates Its 60th Anniversary Revolution
Rado DiaStar Celebrates Sep 28, 2022

The Rado DiaStar Celebrates Its 60th Anniversary

Eléonor speaks with Rado CEO, Adrian Bosshard and internationally-renowned, multi award-winning product designer, Alfredo Häberli at the launch of the 60th Anniversary editions of the Rado DiaStar. The original DiaStar was futuristic in its design and groundbreaking in its use of advanced materials, and the 60th Anniversary editions pay homage to that spirit by incorporating […]

For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge Time+Tide
Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened Sep 20, 2022

For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge

First released in 1962, the Rado DiaStar Original is one kooky watch design. Recognisable at a glance thanks to its striking, oval case, it exudes a retro-futuristic vibe – the sort of watch you can imagine George Jetson wearing in his flying car. But this quirky veneer disguises it’s horological significance.  The DiaStar is, in … ContinuedThe post For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition Sep 20, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition

The concept of the open heart dial is nothing new, but it’s not necessarily a popular one. For the last few decades, watch snobs have dismissed open heart dials because of how often they appear on lower-end mechanical watches, sometimes as imitations of tourbillons or placed seemingly at random. Although the luxury market tends to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Book Review: MB&F; - The First Fifteen Years SJX Watches
MB&F; Sep 19, 2022

Book Review: MB&F; - The First Fifteen Years

MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. By Suzanne Wong and William Massena. La Martinière/Abrams; CHF198 for M.A.D. Gallery edition; US$170 for standard edition. To celebrate its 15 years – from 2005 to 2020 – of making extraordinary watches, MB&F; commissioned a 312-page book, MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. In its short foreword, MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser states he did not want a biography since they are “only written at the end of a journey”. Instead, he puts forward the rhetorical question: developing 18 calibres for over 160 products over the period “deserves to be documented, right?” He adds “hundreds of artisans, engineers and watchmakers” came along for the ride and “this is the story I love to tell”. He describes the tome as a catalogue raisonné, adding that it is something “never been done for a watch brand; a world first in the watchmaking industry!” Defined by the New York Public Library, a catalogue raisonné in the visual arts serves as an important tool not just to establish an artist’s oeuvre, and thus record history, but also to aid in authentication by cataloguing all the known works of an artist. The New York Public Library also adds “Essay(s) on the artist” and “Critical assessments and remarks” as desirable content in such a publication. All the watches and all the friends The main part of the book is such a catalogue of 254 pages, divided into three sections: “Horological Machines”, “Legacy Machines”, ...

Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide Sep 16, 2022

Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide

The Longines HydroConquest features a boldly contemporary design and a sturdy, water-resistant construction that have made it one of the most popular dive watches in its sport-luxury price segment. Since its debut in 2007, the Longines HydroConquest has expanded into a versatile collection with an array of sizes, colorways, and materials to appeal to a wide audience of dive watch enthusiasts. Here are seven things to know if you're looking at adding a Longines HydroConquest watch to your collection. The Longines HydroConquest has its roots in Longines’ very first named collection from 1954. Longines, which derives its name from “les longines,” aka “the long meadows” that surround the Swiss village of Saint-Imier where it was founded, has been making timepieces since 1832. It wasn’t until 1954, however, that Longines began engaging in the modern marketing practice of introducing product families with distinctive names. “Conquest” was the first such name to be registered, on April 3, 1954, with the Swiss Register of Intellectual Property. The original Longines Conquest (reproduced above) was designed as one of the first generation of “modern” wristwatches, i.e., equipped with a highly accurate automatic movement and a water-resistant case that also protected the movement from magnetism and shocks.  Despite its utilitarian elements, the original Conquest was undeniably a dress watch, with a very modest 35mm case; a clean, minimalist dial; applied diamond...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US Time+Tide
Richard Mille fans Sep 16, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US

When the Zenith Chronmaster Revival went pink for the Pink Dial Project Auction, many bidders were excited at the prospect of winning such a vibrant piece unique. Sadly, this meant many missed out – until now. In a manner that allows more people to have a pink-dialled Zenith watch, while protecting the integrity of the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.