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Results for Stella Dial

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Stella Dial Rolex

1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.

Aera Updates their D-1 Diver and P-1 Pilot Watch with New Colors, Brighter Lume, and a Better Movement Worn & Wound
May 15, 2023

Aera Updates their D-1 Diver and P-1 Pilot Watch with New Colors, Brighter Lume, and a Better Movement

New watch brands pop up all the time, but it’s less frequent that they arrive with fully realized and distinct design language right from the jump. Usually it takes time for a brand to kind of settle into itself, work out the kinks, and figure out what it is that makes them different from their many, many competitors. Aera is a British brand that came onto the scene last year with their D-1 (a diver) and P-1 (a pilot’s watch), and have just announced a pair of follow up references that are very much in the same vein, but have some subtle improvements as well. At first glance, Aera’s watches look almost run-of-the-mill, but a glance at the specs and a closer look at the dial design and small details of how each component hangs together reveal watches that actually inhabit a unique space in the enthusiast market. In short, these watches are big in every sense of the word. They have unapologetically large 43mm 904L steel cases and come in at 16mm and 15mm thick (for the diver and pilot’s watch, respectively) thanks to dramatically domed, double curved sapphire crystals. There’s a bulbous quality to the case design that recalls Ikepod, and when I had a chance to briefly wear a D-1 last year I was pleasantly surprised by how comfortable it was for a watch that would normally be outside the limits of what I’d wear on a regular basis in terms of size alone.  But they’re big in other ways too. The curved dials have large openings, much bigger than what you’d norma...

Introducing the Earthform Collection, a Limited Edition Series by Unimatic and Huckberry Inspired by Colors Found in the Natural World Worn & Wound
Timex May 11, 2023

Introducing the Earthform Collection, a Limited Edition Series by Unimatic and Huckberry Inspired by Colors Found in the Natural World

Our friends over at Huckberry are on a bit of a roll. They just teamed up with Timex for an Ironman Flix reissue that gave watch collectors of a certain age a hefty dose of nostalgia when they were least expecting it. And now we get word that they’re working with Unimatic, the Italian watch brand and design house, on a trio of colorful tool watches inspired by, as Unimatic puts it, colors and textures from the natural world. That feels right in line with the Huckberry ethos. They’re a retailer that is clearly bent towards outdoor adventure and a general fascination with cool gear, and the new Earthform Collection seen here slots nicely into their larger catalog.  What we have here are three iterations of the Unimatic Modello Quattro, which is on the toolier end of Unimatic’s larger collection of tool watches. It’s essentially a Modello Uno (the brand’s dive watch) but with a fixed bezel, sans markings. So we get a highly legible diver-style dial with big plots of lume at the hour markers and a case that’s designed to meet a 300 meter water resistance rating, but without the extra moving piece of a bezel insert. It’s really a distillation of the Unimatic aesthetic, which itself is a distillation of classic sports watch design cues, filtered through a minimalist, Italian sensibility.  First up is the Sandstone Modello Quattro, which has an orange dial with a fumé-like effect, but instead of fading to a darker tone at the dial’s perimeter, it appears darkes...

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer SJX Watches
May 5, 2023

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer

Online watch auctioneers Loupe This have just listed a Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer in an online-only sale that runs from now till May 11. Barely a handful have emerged – one was sold at Phillips Perpetual in London in 2021 – but this example is the first to go under the hammer. The scarcity is of the Double Impulse Chronometer on the secondary market is simply because there are few of them in circulation. Around 50 have been made to date and with about a dozen being produced each year, the wait for an order placed now stands at about eight years. The exceptional demand for the watch is entirely justified, since the Double Impulse Chronometer is arguably the most significant English wristwatch in production today. Consigned by the original owner, this specimen is quintessential Frodsham. Numbered “010800” and delivered in September 2019, this is one of the first examples made, the 13th in fact, according to Richard Stenning, co-owner of Charles Frodsham. More notably, it is an unusual combination of a stainless steel case and white ceramic dial with double cyphers. According to Mr Stenning, this was the first of only two watches with this configuration made to date. The cyphers are an option but arguably crucial since they reference the firm’s history and add to the vintage-inspired styling of the dial. Historically found on Frodsham pocket watches – often engraved on the movement but sometimes on the dial – such cyphers indicated Royal Warrant...

eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore Worn & Wound
Hamilton Enicar May 4, 2023

eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor Starting this week off with a killer vintage diver, a Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor. This beauty is the classic 36mm dual crown type, with the same case style used by companies like Bulova, Hamilton, Enicar and Benrus to name a few. The Archimedes stands out from other Super Compressors with the bright orange dial. This example is in excellent condition with an unpolished case and flawless dial. The dual crowns are the oversized type, with the classic cross-hatched design on the ends. Seller states the watch runs well, but no movement picture. You really can’t go wrong with these EPSA cased Super Compressor divers, and they are only getting more desired by collectors and harder to find in good shape. View auction here. Vintage Accutron Navigator Here’s a rare and unusual piece, a vintage 1967 Accutron Navigator Mark 2 ships chronometer. These were used as extremely accurate time keeping devices on ships to aid in navigation. Usually these are high grade manual clocks, but Accutron dipped their toes in the water (see what I did there? ;-)) with their tuning fork movements. I read that this clock used three tuning fork movements mounted at...

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard “Damas” SJX Watches
Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet May 4, 2023

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard “Damas”

Franck Muller’s latest venture into unorthodox case materials is a pair of watches with cases and dials in Damascus steel. Available only at the brand’s stores in Asia, the Vanguard “Damas” and “Damas Racing” retain the tonneau-shaped case of the brand’s bestseller but enhanced with the texture and depth of Damascus steel. Initial thoughts  The use of Damascus steel gives the Vanguard a new and appealing look. Because the model has been iterated numerous times, the Vanguard line is made up of an almost endless range of variants, but mostly in conventional metal alloys or carbon composite. The Damas models easily stand apart, making them instantly recognisable.   The case metal is particularly suited to the skeletonised Damas Racing – the open-worked dial contrasts against the graining of the Damascus steel, making it a perfect complement to the case material. And its open-worked numerals in Damascus steel are an especially pleasing detail. The Vanguard “Damas Racing” Both Damas models, however, are pricey relative to other Franck Muller offerings. The Vanguard “Damas” costs just over US$13,000 (and the open-worked model is almost double), making it twice as expensive as a comparable time-only Vanguard in a conventional steel case. That’s true even compared to the competition. The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet, which features a similar case material, costs about the same as the open-worked Vanguard “Damas Racing”, but it’s a chronograph in...

Watches With Two Timezones: 24 Best Travel Watches from Entry-Level to Teddy Baldassarre
May 2, 2023

Watches With Two Timezones: 24 Best Travel Watches from Entry-Level to

Aimed at frequent travelers, watches with two timezones are among the most practical of complicated timepieces. Even in an era in which it's easier than ever to check one's current time on any mobile device, being able to read two distinct times more or less simultaneously with a simple glance at one's wrist is still a compelling argument to recommend such a watch to anyone whose work or leisure takes them far from home on a regular basis. In this article we take a look at a range of dual-time watches (also called "GMT" watches, named for the calculation of "Greenwich Mean Time," or the worldwide 24-hour timekeeping system based upon the Greenwich Meridian in London), priced from entry-level to high luxury, from a variety of watchmakers large and small.  Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Price: $391, Case: 42mm, Lug Width: 26mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water-Resistance: 200m, Movement: Quartz Eco-Drive, Water-Resistance: 200m The Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Black PVD sports a highly technical dial that takes its cues from instruments in the cockpits of U.S. military helicopters. The watch’s 42-mm case is made of black PVD-coated stainless steel and its black dial is packed with scales in contrasting white type that are of particular use to aviators and navigators, including the circular slide rule printed on the ion-plated rotating bezel. Two luminous central hands display the current time, while an airplane-tipped smaller hand shows the time in another time zone on a 24-hour sc...

Leica Introduces a Pair of New Watches Inspired by their M11 Monochrom Camera Worn & Wound
May 1, 2023

Leica Introduces a Pair of New Watches Inspired by their M11 Monochrom Camera

The worlds of photography and horology are inextricably linked in a number of ways. Both, of course, deal in precision. And time is essential to watchmaking in a very obvious way, and to photography in more subtle ways – the length of an exposure, of course, but also in how an image captures a single moment, and how many images, across a longer period of time, give us a particular impression of a subject. It shouldn’t be surprising to anyone that the Venn Diagram between these two pursuits covers so much shared ground, and it similarly shouldn’t be shocking that established brands in each enthusiast area have made attempts to explicitly link their products to those of their counterpart. Zach just brought us a review of an interesting photography themed watch from Horage, and now we have news of a new watch from Leica, the well respected German camera manufacturer.  As seasoned as Leica is in the world of cameras, they are brand new to watches, only dipping into the space last year with their debut collection. This new pair of watches represent what is essentially a new colorway for the watches that were unveiled last year. The new ZM 1 and ZM 2 references seen here are inspired by Leica’s latest black and white only camera, the M11 Monochrom. These Monochrom Edition watches, as you’ve probably guessed, have been sapped of all color, with a dial that is essentially black on black, with only the most minimal stark white accents on the dial that draw your attention...

Mr Jones Adds A Perfectly Useless Afternoon to their Growing Lineup of Mechanical Watches Worn & Wound
Apr 27, 2023

Mr Jones Adds A Perfectly Useless Afternoon to their Growing Lineup of Mechanical Watches

Mr Jones Watches is a British brand that has been around since 2007, and in that time has carved out a niche that is really occupied by them and them alone. The brand specializes in “unusual watches that tell a story,” with dials that are full of unique artwork, visual puns, and feature curious methods of telling the time. For example, a favorite of mine is “The Accurate,” which is modeled after the concept of memento mori and features the words “Remember” and “You will die” incorporated into the hour and minute hands, respectively. Another watch, “Number Cruncher,” puts a bright blue monster front and center, with a jumping hour mechanism in its hand, and minutes reflected in a cross section of its stomach. You get the idea. Now, one of their most popular watches is available for the first time in a mechanical version, and it’s particularly appropriate as we approach the lazy days of summer.  The watch, which is dubbed “A perfectly useless afternoon,” takes a bird’s eye view of a pool scene, with a figure lounging and floating peacefully across its surface. Naturally, the figure rotates around the dial, with their leg pointing to the correct hour. Minutes are read through the pool’s only other occupant, a rubber duck at the dial’s perimeter. The watch was designed by Belgian illustrator Kristof Devos, who was inspired by words of Chinese writer and philosopher Lin Yutang, who said “If you can spend a perfectly useless afternoon in a perf...

Konstantin Chaykin and Louis Erard Team Up on Le Régulateur “Time-Eater” SJX Watches
Louis Erard Team Up Apr 25, 2023

Konstantin Chaykin and Louis Erard Team Up on Le Régulateur “Time-Eater”

With a knack for novel collaborations with partners ranging from industrial designers to guillocheurs, Louis Erard’s latest project brings on board Konstantin Chaykin. The result is Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater, a regulator-style wristwatch inspired by the Russian independent watchmaker’s signature “rolling eye” watches. Inspired by a one-eyed monster from Slavic folklore, the Time-Eater has a whimsical vibe that departs from Louis Erard’s more serious offerings like the recent example with a hand-made wood marquetry dial. It is available in either a 42 mm or 39 mm size, or both together in a two-piece box set. Initial thoughts  Following its successful collaborations with other notable watchmakers, it’s perhaps no surprise that Louis Erard recruited Konstantin Chaykin. Earlier partnerships, with Vianney Halter for instance, broadened the appeal of the independent watchmakers by making the name accessible at a far lower price point. Despite Mr Chaykin’s specialty in avant-garde or fantastical designs, the Time-Eater is surprisingly restrained compared to his own creations, no doubt because it is based on the existing template of the Louis Erard regulator. As a result, it is not the full-blown Konstantin Chaykin watch that collectors might expect from the Russian watchmaker. But then again, the price of about US$4,000 means the Time-Eater is about the fifth a price of Mr Chaykin’s trademark Minion watch. The Time-Eater watch is...

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on the origins of the Reverso and why the golden ratio is central to its success Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier Apr 24, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on the origins of the Reverso and why the golden ratio is central to its success

At last year’s Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre dazzled attendees with their Stellar Odyssey collection accompanied by a mesmerising stall. This year, they calmed us back down with an exploration of their beauty and history, as exemplified by a spectacular hologram and water display at the centre of various craft demonstrations. Take a deep breath and … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on the origins of the Reverso and why the golden ratio is central to its success appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Apr 21, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton

Having just introduced a revived version of the classic Tank Normale, Cartier also debuted a modern take on the design, the Tank Normale Skeleton. It’s equipped with a in-house skeletonised movement done in Cartier’s typical geometric style, but with a discreet twist in the form of a 24-hour time display. Initial thoughts  At a glance the Tank Normale Skeleton might seem like yet another skeletonised Tank, of which there have been several over the years. But look closer and it emerges as something more interesting. The dial tells the time on a 24-hour scale, a modest complication in mechanical terms but one that references Cartier’s historical day-and-night timepieces. And the complication is echoed in the sun-and-moon motif of the bridges rendered in a complementary Art Deco style. In short, it’s an elegant take on the day-and-night display done in quintessential Cartier style. Created especially for this model, the calibre inside is notably attractive. It’s fairly symmetrical in layout – the balance is at 12 o’clock while the barrel sits at six – and finished to match the style of the bridges. But it does still have an Etachron regulator, which is found in all Cartier skeleton movements but still out of place considering the price. And the price is steep. At US$71,000 in yellow gold and slightly more in platinum, it is pricey for a relatively straightforward skeleton watch. In comparison, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor also launched this year is ...

Getting Modular with the Liberum DMD 001 Worn & Wound
Formex offer Apr 18, 2023

Getting Modular with the Liberum DMD 001

As watch enthusiasts, we understand the desire to change up the look of our timepieces without breaking the bank. Thankfully, the market for third party straps and bracelets has exploded in recent years, and quick release options have made swapping them out a breeze. But sometimes, a new set of shoes just isn’t enough. Still, the options for a more dramatic swap have been somewhat limited until recently. Brands like Formex offer an inventive quick bezel swap system and Hegid offers an interchangeable case system. Still these options leave a gap at a more attainable budget. Enter Liberum, an Italian microbrand with a new modular watch system that’s both fun-focused and budget-friendly, with a project that is ending soon on Kickstarter. The watch features a modular design consisting of five different colored outer cases, one or two inner cases (depending on the package you select), and five integrated polyurethane rubber straps. These pieces seamlessly integrate with each other, allowing you to swap and combine them for 25 different color combinations.  While some color combinations may work better than others, the Liberum watch lets you switch and swap until your heart’s content. Its genius lies in its simplicity: the durable TPE outer watch cases integrate seamlessly over a stainless steel inner case encapsulating the dial and movement in a sapphire sandwich, making the swap incredibly easy. To change the case and strap, all you need to do is remove the quick-releas...

Up Close: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 Apr 17, 2023

Up Close: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327

Breguet has announced a new flagship perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327. Succeeding the ref. 5327 that’s been in the catalogue almost two decades, the new ref. 7327 retains the traditional style that defines the brand while incorporating refinements and gentle modernisation in the design. Importantly, the ref. 7327 features a new perpetual calendar mechanism that boasts an elaborate retrograde display that illustrates Breguet’s sophisticated approach to movement construction. Initial thoughts The design of the ref. 7327 is quintessential Breguet and indisputably the main attraction. The orderly yet asymmetrical dial finished in guilloche, pomme hands, and the slim case with a fluted band – it is Breguet. Yet I’d be remiss not to mention the immense charm and finesse the ref. 7327 exudes. Thoughtfully executed dress watches are seldom encountered today, especially ones with svelte, just-right proportions, but this a niche that Breguet has mastered with consistency and quality. The design of the ref. 7327 is particularly interesting because it is clearly classic Breguet, but with a modern twist. The dial is slightly cleaner than old-school Breguet wristwatches, which were often elaborately, and sometimes fussily, decorated. But unlike the facelifted ref. 7337, for instance, which traditionalists might argue is too modern, the ref. 7327 is still eminently classical. Additionally, the addition of a retrograde month display at 11 ...

Checking out the Sinn T50s in Geneva Worn & Wound
Sinn T50s Apr 11, 2023

Checking out the Sinn T50s in Geneva

The Sinn U50 is one of those watches that watch enthusiasts collectively knew would be a huge hit when it launched in 2020. Though essentially a shrunken-down U1 (with half the water resistance), it was Sinn doing what they do best. Humbly making incredibly rugged, high-spec, modern tool-watches, and making it seem easy. Thin at 11.3mm, well-sized at 41mm x 47mm for a modern, but not oversized fit, and built to withstand 500 bar of pressure, it demonstrated that good engineering prevails over scale. The only problem has been a lack of new versions since launch. There was a blackout LE with a dark MOP dial, which was cool, if not for everyone (Sinn’s head of marketing, Sabine Kleiter wears this watch, and it always looks striking). And then the U50 Pro, which was a date-free remix, with the crown up at 10. Another great-looking version, it was sadly limited to 150 pieces and to the North American market. Both are great, but neither a true addition to the line. And then, in 2023, we got what we wanted. Well, sort of. Rather than building on the U50, Sinn launched a sibling watch called the T50. At a glance, they seemed a lot alike, but there are quite a few differences as well making them a slightly different beast. If I were to liken it to something, it would be the higher-priced sport trim of the same base model car. They have the same dimensions and general design, particularly regarding the case, but are made out of hardened titanium, gold bronze (a patent-pending allo...

Chanel Introduces the Lion Astroclock SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Apr 10, 2023

Chanel Introduces the Lion Astroclock

Titled Chanel Interstellar, the 2023 watch collection debuted by Chanel was inspired by “science fiction, space and time travel”. The line-up naturally included exotic variations on the J12, but the most impressive timekeeper wasn’t a wristwatch but a desk clock, the Lion Astroclock. Anchored by a lion, the Astroclock is typical Chanel in style. Almost entirely matte black, it has discreet touches of extravagance in the form of brilliant-cut diamonds on the hands, which form the unusual, planetarium-style time display. The lion is a reference to Leo, Coco Chanel’s zodiac sign Initial thoughts Monochromatic, sculptural timekeepers with the occasion gemstone setting, Chanel’s top-of-the-line clocks possess an easy, intrinsic appeal. The Astroclock is no different. At a distance, it probably won’t look particularly interesting on a desk, but up close the refined execution is visible. All the details within the glass sphere – the three-dimensional time display, polished surfaces, and brilliant-cut diamonds – need to be admired up close. With its US$350,000-ish price tag, the Astroclock is probably more expensive than it should be considering the relatively simple L’Epee movement, but it is impressive. Symbolism Clean and entirely in matte black, the Lion Astroclock echoes the styling of the Chronosphere clock of 2018, but with added astronomical elements that reference Coco Chanel. Standing about 35 cm high, the Lion Astroclock is comprised of a base enclosin...

Farer Adds a Trio of New 36mm GMTs to the Lander Family Worn & Wound
Farer Adds Apr 10, 2023

Farer Adds a Trio of New 36mm GMTs to the Lander Family

If you’ve been interested in Farer’s Lander GMT (which they tell us is their most popular watch…ever) but felt it was just a bit too big, you’ll want to check out the brand’s latest release. The new 36mm GMT collection takes the Lander aesthetic and shrinks it, making for some of the most compact automatic GMTs on the market. It was only a few months ago that the Lorca GMT had us wondering why there weren’t more smaller GMT equipped watches on the market, and now we have a sudden influx. It’s a good time to be a GMT fan, and now there are a selection of colorful options from across the pond.  The premise here is fairly simple. These new watches share the same basic design as the Lander, with a trio of distinct colorways. Unlike most Farer releases, which frequently have dramatic differences in hand-sets, hour markers, and dial textures within a single collection, these three watches are all very much “Landers” with the same numeral and hand design.  The three colors include the much admired sea green, seen in what Farer is calling the Lander IV, or the Lander Classic, This watch has the same sunburst blue/green color that caught the attention of many watch enthusiasts in Farer’s early days, and set a tone for what to expect in terms of creative color combinations. The sea green dial is offset with a bright red GMT hand and an orange seconds hand, along with a white outer minute track.  The next color in the new collection is Sea Coast, with a dial th...

Should this Watch Exist? The Solid Gold Aquaracer is a Surprise Watches & Wonders Highlight Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Mar 29, 2023

Should this Watch Exist? The Solid Gold Aquaracer is a Surprise Watches & Wonders Highlight

Ladies and gentlemen, I have a new obsession. Zach Weiss already told you about the latest Carreras from TAG Heuer, and they are undoubtedly pretty great. But the watch that stole the show for me from the TAG presentation was a solid gold Aquaracer. Yes, a solid gold Aquaracer. It wasn’t too long ago that we were universally kind of gobsmacked by a solar powered titanium version of this very same watch. Now, if you’d like, you can have a pair in two very different metals, which give very different impressions.  The key to this Aquaracer is the complementary nature of the rose gold case and the degrade dial, which is a warm blend of brown and gray. The bezel and tops of the lugs have a sandblasted finish that mimics the utilitarian look of titanium reference, but there are polished accents that really make the precious metal pop, and that’s kind of what you want on a watch like this.  Aside from the solid gold case, though, this is the Aquaracer we know and love (but just, you know, elevated to an insane degree). Inside ticks a TH31-00 automatic movement, a new caliber built by AMT, Sellita’s high end division. It has 80 hours of power reserve and has been COSC certified, so in terms of specs it’s highly competitive with calibers found in other high end divers. The case still measures a tidy 40mm in diameter. The horizontal ridged pattern that the Aquaracer’s dials have adopted recently is also present, and I can’t understate how well the tone of that dial w...

Rolex Introduces the Daytona Ref. 126500 SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Daytona Ref. 126500

For the 60th anniversary of the Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex has given the collection a subtle refresh with both technical and aesthetic improvements. The upgrades are fairly significant considering the outgoing 116500 was only seven years old, having debuted at Baselworld in 2016, and is still one of the most sought-after watches on the market. At launch, there are five key references and 11 total variations. Topping the range is a new platinum model that offers a transparent case back – a first for a Daytona. The platinum model benefits from a transparent caseback and a gold oscillating weight Initial thoughts The outgoing Daytona ref. 116500 was arguably the best chronograph in its category, and inarguably difficult to buy at retail price. Not content with this success, Rolex has made a great watch even better. The upgrades are subtle, but there are numerous changes inside and out. Starting with the dial, the sub-dial rings and dial markers have grown thinner, as has the ceramic bezel which now features a protective outer ring crafted from the same material as the middle case. The new Daytona has a slimmer case, under 12 mm for the first time. Note the gold ring around the edge of the ceramic bezel. Reduced thickness seems to be something of a theme for Rolex this year, and the Daytona is no exception, shedding 0.5 mm for a new total thickness of 11.9 mm. The outgoing Daytona was already quite thin relative to its peers, and the sleeker dimensions of the new model only m...

Rolex Redesigns the Daytona for 60th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Rolex Redesigns Mar 27, 2023

Rolex Redesigns the Daytona for 60th Anniversary

Rolex has given the Daytona its first proper redesign since the 116520 was released in 2000. With it comes an updated movement, and a few nods to older references that we’ve been asking for, as well a surprise or two along the way. The new Daytona design replaces all existing references with a new base collection that spans from steel; yellow Rolesor; yellow, white, and Everose gold; and of course, platinum. Each receives an updated 4131 automatic movement which finally brings stuff like the Chronergy escapement to the collection. It also gets an openworked oscillating weight, which, for the first time ever on a Daytona, is visible through an exhibition caseback on the platinum anniversary reference.  At a glance, the new Daytona doesn’t look all that different from the outgoing references. This is very much an iteration of the same concept that’s been evolving since 1953. The most immediately apparent departure from the prior generation is the thickness of the rings surrounding the sub dials, the shape of the hour markers, and the bezel construction. They add up to a notably different vibe that presents a slightly jarring take on the dial design thanks to the altered proportions. The thinner sub dial surrounds in particular highlight this difference, and it’s a detail most noticeable on the steel examples as they are contrasted against the dial color alone. The precious metal references get those sub dials filled in, which work well here. One of the most welcomed...

(Hands-On)The Genta IWC Ingenieur Era Returns With New Automatic 40 Worn & Wound
Rolex Milgauss Mar 27, 2023

(Hands-On)The Genta IWC Ingenieur Era Returns With New Automatic 40

The Ingenieur pivots back to its Gerald Genta design era this year with the introduction of a new collection that references the Ingenieur SL, reference 1832 from 1976. This is a move we (and likely, many of you) have anticipated since asking IWC CEO Chris Grainger about it back in 2021 on the Worn & Wound podcast (listen to that episode right here). The new Ingenieur collection welcomes three steel references that feature unique textured dials in silver, black, and aqua, and a full titanium reference with a gray dial. Each feature the new integrated bracelet design made famous by Genta in the ‘70s that we last saw in 2013 with the Ingenieur reference 3239. The new Inge takes a slightly softer approach and places an emphasis on ergonomics, and during our time with the watch in London last month, found it to be exactly that. This is the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 and yes, it still has a soft-iron inner case.  The Ingenieur has a rather interesting history that reaches back to 1955 with the reference 666, where it embraced a classic round shape and simple dial befitting of the era. It was launched around the same time as the Rolex Milgauss, and filled a similar role, making use of a soft-iron inner case to protect the movement from magnetic influence (up to 80,000 Amperes per meter). The name has roots in Old French and Medieval Latin, according to IWC, evolving from “ingeniator” or “one who makes or uses an engine”. The word Inegnieur evokes a similar vibe, and b...

The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma collection Mar 26, 2023

The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection

The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection pays tribute to the Swiss watchmaking side of the Italian brand. With dials featuring a hobnail pattern, their sportiness is accentuated. Both Automatic and Chronograph models come with a steel bracelet and extra rubber strap with a quick-release system. Sneaking in just before 2023’s edition of Watches & Wonders, … ContinuedThe post The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden We’re Mar 20, 2023

[Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden

We’re not yet at the stage that the BR05 is seen as THE Bell & Ross-there’s still a long way to go before it could dethrone the classic square silhouette of the BR01 and BR03 models-but it feels like it has grown up enough to be seen as not just another brand jumping on the integrated bracelet sport watch bandwagon. It’s not even four years since the first of the BR05 variants were unveiled, and during that time we have seen three-handers, chronographs and GMTs. Stainless steel watches have seen bead-blasting and ‘Artline’ finishing. There have been rose gold and two-tone cases. Dials have come in black, white, copper, green, and blue. And lets not forget the Kenissi powered BR-X5 which has also evolved from the same case. As I browse the BR05 catalogue, both past and present, I’m struck by two thoughts. Firstly, there have been a LOT of different watches in this line. It’s not surprising that a brand should choose to repeat and rework a flagship model, but even allowing for quite a number of limited editions, that’s still a lot of releases since the original 2019 debut. This leads to my second thought. Despite always being impressed with the overall aesthetic, case design and finishing, why haven’t I found one that I really like? Finding my own answer to that has required me to attempt to classify what type of watch the BR05 actually is. $6600 [Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Case Stainless Stee Movement BR-CAL.322 (Base SW300-1) Dia...

Massena LAB Teams Up with Angelus for a Limited Edition Doctor’s Chronograph with a Special Movement Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Teams Up Mar 15, 2023

Massena LAB Teams Up with Angelus for a Limited Edition Doctor’s Chronograph with a Special Movement

For the latest Massena LAB limited edition, William Massena’s boutique brand specializing in tasteful remakes of classic pieces with real watch nerd pedigree is reaching back to the 1960s, and showcasing a different type of tool watch. The collaborator for this edition, Angelus, is a historic Swiss brand known largely for their excellent chronographs, and the limited edition seen here is based on a deep cut made specifically for physicians. The Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB is the first watch in Angelus’s new La Fabrique collection, which will specialize in recreating important Angelus watches in small batch limited editions.  The principle behind a “doctor’s watch” is fairly well known. These watches were typically chronographs that incorporate a pulsation scale at the perimeter of the dial or within a bezel, making it easy for a doctor to quickly calculate the heartrate of a patient. Their operation is simple: start the chronograph, count ten heartbeats (or the number the scale on your watch is calibrated for), and then stop the chronograph. The chronograph seconds hand will be pointing to the number of heart beats per minute. You can imagine that the practicality here for a doctor, particularly when watches like this were being made in the 1950s and 60s, was off the charts. Even for the average person, it could be argued that a pulsation scale would be more useful day to day than something like a tachymeter or a telemeter.  The Chronograph Médical lim...

Citizen Introduces the Eco-Drive 365 SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 15, 2023

Citizen Introduces the Eco-Drive 365

A pioneer in solar-powered watches, Citizen has hundreds of such models in its catalogue. But the brand’s latest solar-powered offering, the Eco-Drive 365, is different. Distinctly 1970s in style, the oversized and chunky case is modelled on the Quartz E.F.A. of 1973, one of the brand’s first quartz watches. Named after its 365-day power reserve, the Eco-Drive 365 makes its debut in three variants: a pair of regular-production models in muted colours as well as a limited edition remake of the Quartz E.F.A. that celebrates the 1970s with its ruby-and-gilt dial. From left: The Eco-Drive 365 in steel, black-coated steel, and the limited edition with synthetic ruby markers Initial thoughts Most Eco-Drive watches are either chunky sports watches or conservative and plain. The Eco-Drive 365, on the other hand, is bold and retro. In other words, it is a different solar-powered watch. Almost over the top in style, the large case easily evokes the chunky forms typical of the 1970s. On its face the combination of 1970s design and a solar-powered movement might seem peculiar, but the styling makes this far more interesting than the typical Eco-Drive. Citizen would certainly do well to install the Eco-Drive movements in more watches like this. I’ve yet to see the Eco-Drive 365 in the metal, but assuming the build quality is on par with similarly priced Citizen watches, it should have good tactile feel, particularly for the US$500-ish price tag. And while it costs slightly mor...

Micro-Brand Digest: Inventive Divers, Anti-magnetic Field Watch, & One Charming Chronograph Worn & Wound
Mar 14, 2023

Micro-Brand Digest: Inventive Divers, Anti-magnetic Field Watch, & One Charming Chronograph

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Gyavius Watch Company NAVI The Sophomore release from a brand called Gyavius represents a serious jump forward, and dabbles in the rarely seen fixed lug bar space. The watch, which is called the NAVI, has just launched its batch 1 order window, and it represents a healthy step in an original direction when it comes to dive watches from micro-brands.  The NAVI is a 45mm dive watch with a fixed lug bar allowing a pass through strap, and allowing for a rather organic looking case shape overall that might wear a bit better than the numbers might suggest. But those numbers are there for a reason, this is a 100ATM diver, tested to 1000M of pressure. Do any of us need that much depth resistance? Absolutely not, but hey, it’s a pretty cool watch and if you’re going to go big, you may as well go all the way.  The matte dial gets a generous helping of pad printed lume with hand applied green lume overtop for a maximum visibility and a pretty cool look. Inside you...

eBay Finds: Classic Chronographs and Gold Cases Worn & Wound
Accutron Calendar Need some bling Mar 9, 2023

eBay Finds: Classic Chronographs and Gold Cases

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Pierce Chronograph First up this week is a gorgeous early vintage Piece jumbo chronograph. The fancy stainless steel case measures a healthy 37mm wide, and features brilliant curved lugs with stylin’ chamfers. The case does show some light wear, but overall looks pretty sharp. The dial looks original and shows a bit of patina as it should. The up/down subdial configuration with the upper dial being larger than the lower really stands out. The hands are diamond shaped and lume filled. I’m guessing the hands have been relumed, but they look good to me. Seller states the Pierce manual wind chronograph movement has just been serviced and works perfectly. Really sharp early chrono that has lots of character. View auction here. Solid Gold Bulova Accutron Calendar Need some bling in your life? Check out this vintage 1967 killer asymmetrical solid 14k yellow gold Accutron 218. If you don’t already know, the Accutron 218 is their second generation tuning fork movement and is an absolute classic. These are great movements that usually keep great time and the batteries are readily available. This model has a vertically asymmetrical shield shaped case with skinny lugs on top and fat...

Sarpaneva Marks 20 Years with the Stardust SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Mar 9, 2023

Sarpaneva Marks 20 Years with the Stardust

Having built a reputation with original timepieces characterised by Neo-Gothic flair, Stepan Sarpaneva celebrates his 20th year in watchmaking with a pair in typical Sarpaneva style – Stardust and Stardust “Nostromo”. Limited to twenty pieces each, the duo embody Sarpaneva’s trademark aesthetic styling in their hand-finished, open-worked dials and Korona case.  Initial thoughts I have long admired Sarpaneva for being different. The man has a unique and often quirky vision of watchmaking that is evident in his timepieces, which are also finished well in terms of cases and dials. While Sarpaneva has not done much in terms of movements, his original approach is very much independent watchmaking. While different from its past offerings, both Stardust variants are still recognisably Sarpaneva with their radial dial motif and sculpted case. Stardust (left) and Stardust “Nostromo” The iridescent colours of the Stardust are not exactly novel, but it is a different take on the fashionable “rainbow” watch and it is certainly executed well since Sarpaneva does impressive dial work in its price segment. On the other hand, the dark colours of the Stardust “Nostromo” give it a more sci-fi feel that goes well with Sarpaneva’s house style. Both Stardust model are priced at €16,500 each, making them slightly affordable than the comparably spec’ed Valterri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” released last year. While hefty on its face, the price tag is easily justifi...

Seiko Introduces Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT SJX Watches
Grand Seiko models Mar 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT

Responsible for some of the most reliable and well-priced diver watches on the market, Seiko is synonymous with the genre. The Japanese watchmaker continues to expand its dive watch offerings, but now with a second time zone complication. A “modern reinterpretation” of its Hi-Beat 300 m dive watch from 1968, the Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT is the first mechanical dual-time zone dive watch in Seiko’s Prospex sports watch collection. The SPB383 Initial thoughts Arguably the collection offering the best value in Seiko’s line-up, Prospex is going slightly upscale with the second time zone movement, while maintaining its strong price-performance ratio. The standout among the new models is the SPB381 with its deep green dial. While the limited edition SPB385 with its textured, “ice blue” dial is undoubtedly fancier, the SPB381 is clean and functional but appealing with its palette. The SPB381 Though it is a two-time zone watch, the Diver’s GMT is still primarily a dive watch. So it retains the traditional elapsed time bezel and clever places the 24-hour scale on the flange around the dial. That said, the Diver’s GMT is more accurately a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a true GMT that has an adjustable local-time hour hand (as found in pricier Grand Seiko models). This means a few extra steps when setting the time for a change in time zones, though it is a perfectly acceptable compromise considering the price. At U...

Mido Revives the Ocean Star Decompression and Adds a Local Jumping Hour GMT and a Whole Lot of Color Worn & Wound
Mido Mar 7, 2023

Mido Revives the Ocean Star Decompression and Adds a Local Jumping Hour GMT and a Whole Lot of Color

Mido had a bonafide hit on their hands in 2020 with Ocean Star Decompression Timer, a colorful skin diver based on the original Ocean Star divers from the 1960s. The brightly colored sectors allow divers to time decompression stops by sight, but for those of us who tend to spend most of our time topside, it was just a fun way to incorporate some color into a style of watch that sometimes veers toward the sober. The viral success of that release (it sold out quickly and seemed to dominate Instagram for a brief period of time) makes it somewhat surprising that Mido hasn’t returned to the format more frequently in the years since, but here we are with what I think many would argue feels like a natural follow up.  The Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer takes the colorful sector layout of the Decompression Timer and applies it to another complication altogether. The execution is actually rather simple, even if the dial appears to be extremely complicated. In the dial’s interior, we have the same decompression table as seen in the prior version of the watch. But at the perimeter, Mido has added a 24 hour scale, and instead of a traditional dive bezel, we get a rotating city ring for time indication. Importantly, the bezel maintains a minute scale, with 10 minute intervals marked off in the midst of international cities, which means you could still use this watch as a dive tool if you needed to.  The dial is a lot of fun, and if you were drawn to the original, there’s a ...

ochs & junior Gives Us Two Time Zones Without the Fuss Worn & Wound
Zodiac Mar 6, 2023

ochs & junior Gives Us Two Time Zones Without the Fuss

Dual time watches have enjoyed a resurgence in popularity thanks to a new crop of movements boasting variations of the complication, and that’s a very good thing, netting us new GMT watches like this Seiko, this Zodiac, and this Lorca, among many others. What’s rarer is a novel take on presenting the complication. That’s exactly what we get from a new watch from ochs & junior, which ditches the fourth hand altogether, and provides a second set of adjustable hour markers instead. This is the ochs line two time zones aka the due ore raw. The traditional GMT configuration is lauded for its simplicity which boils down to a 24 hand dutifully lapping the dial once each day, usually accompanied by a set of 24 hour markers against which to read it independently of the 12 hour markers for the local time. There are plenty of exceptions, of course, but not nearly enough in the sub-exotic realm. The Nomos Zürich world time is one such example, and now this ochs & junior represents another such breath of fresh air. The two time zones seen here utilizes the classic ETA 2824-2 that’s been modified to host a disc containing a set of hour markers in Arabic numeral form under the dial. The standard 31-tooth date disc has been replaced with a 48-tooth disk that’s independently adjustable through the crown. This makes for an intuitive display that’s easily managed and read. Simply add or subtract the difference between your home and local time zones and set the display accordingl...