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Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement

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Richard Mille Goes Hyper Lightweight with the RM 55-01 SJX Watches
Richard Mille Goes Hyper Lightweight Apr 20, 2026

Richard Mille Goes Hyper Lightweight with the RM 55-01

In an unexpected departure from their its horological extravaganza, Richard Mille has just unveiled the time-only RM 55-01. With a focus on simplified movement architecture and lightness, the RM 55-01’s movement is a hand-wound exercise in restraint and weighs under 5 g – equivalent to one sheet of A4 paper. Initial thoughts At its debut in the early 2000s, Richard Mille basically introduced and then perfected the niche offering of ultra-expensive, “hyper” sports watches, juggling complications, materials and bold aesthetics to create an outrageously expensive cocktail of lightness and ergonomics. With the RM55-01 the same brand returns to the basics, with a caliber developed for extreme lightness, doing away with automatic winding or any complications. The watch only tells the hours, minutes and seconds - which is not really something one expects from Richard Mille these days.  This RM 55-01 feels like a spiritual descendant of the discontinued RM 55 “Bubba Watson”. The case lines and the movement itself are very reminiscent of that model, although the RM 055 was mostly marketed as a light but sturdy golfer’s watch. The new RM55-01 is presented as a pure exercise in weight reduction. Though the price of the RM 55-01 is unavailable, it is probably unjustifiable in any tangible or intrinsic sense. But is a mechanical watch that weighs as much as a few sheets of paper extremely cool? Yes – if you can afford it. Airy construction The RM 55-01 is built with ...

Venezianico Introduces the Arsenale Calendario Worn & Wound
Venezianico Introduces Apr 20, 2026

Venezianico Introduces the Arsenale Calendario

Fresh off the nonstop excitement of Watches & Wonders, it’s easy to ignore any releases that occur outside of the Geneva city limits. The spring is still young, though, and there are still plenty of exciting launches to go in 2026. In that vein, Italian brand Venezianico is doubling down on their mission of Italian-made mechanical timepieces with the new Arsenale Calendario duo, inspired by the Arsenale di Venezia, the world’s oldest shipyard. The Arsenale collection isn’t brand new: the Meteorite model touched on space as a theme, and the Bizantino and Sumi-e watches took more decorative, artistic approaches. The Calendario, though, draws from what Venezianico calls “the architecture of time”. Basically, it adds new complications-a complete calendar, a power-reserve indicator, and a day-night indicator-to emphasize the passing of time in a material way.  In terms of basic dimensions, the Calendario sits within a 316L stainless steel case with a satin finish, and measures in at 40mm in diameter and 44mm lug-to-lug. It’s not exactly thin at 9.6mm of thickness, and the double-domed sapphire adds another 1.4mm on the top, giving it a solid presence despite the dress watch-adjacent design. A knurled stainless steel bezel and screw-down crown at 3 o’clock add texture to the case, and further emphasize the depth of the sunburst dial, which is available in two colorways: burgundy red and blue. These are not subtle shades, and the concentric texture of the dial ...

First Look – Favre Leuba Launches the New 1737 Collection with a Triple Calendar Edition Monochrome
Favre Leuba Launches Apr 18, 2026

First Look – Favre Leuba Launches the New 1737 Collection with a Triple Calendar Edition

The second-oldest name in watchmaking history, Favre Leuba’s origins go back to 1737, when Abraham Favre was recorded as a watchmaker in Le Locle. Following a global relaunch in 2024 under the leadership of CEO Patrik P. Hoffmann, Favre Leuba’s modern revival focuses on precision-driven timepieces that honour the brand’s extensive archives while meeting contemporary […]

Five Highlights From Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 Deployant
Patek Philippe Apr 17, 2026

Five Highlights From Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Patek Philippe brought more than twenty new references to WWG26 across its main collections. Instead of running through the full list, we pulled out five models that give a clear sense of what the manufacture introduced this year - one from each of the major lines and representative of the updates shown at the fair. [...] The post Five Highlights From Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Roger Dubuis Debuts Biretrograde Calendar in Steel SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Debuts Biretrograde Calendar Apr 15, 2026

Roger Dubuis Debuts Biretrograde Calendar in Steel

Following the introduction of the same model (sans bracelet) in 18k pink gold last year, the new ‘cosmic blue’ variant of the Roger Dubuis (RD) Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar offers the brand’s signature retrograde day and date complication in a more accessible stainless steel package. Initial thoughts As a maker of big, bold, avant-garde watches, RD has found itself out of step with mainstream collector culture, which lately has favoured smaller, more elegant designs. The brand seems to understand the implications of these latent trends, and just last year introduced the Hommage La Placide, which was widely praised. The new 40 mm Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is another step in the right direction, bridging the gap between RD’s more flamboyant instincts and contemporary collector preferences. In this context, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is clearly a watch designed to resonate more widely - the 40 mm stainless steel case paired with a blue dial is a commercially popular and almost universally appealing configuration. It works in part because the striking Excalibur design and unmistakeable biretrograde day and date functionality keep it from looking too much like anything else. The stainless steel bracelet is also noteworthy. It’s not the first time the brand has offered a steel bracelet - and it has produced this same design in titanium in the past as well - but it might as well be new since the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar will probably appea...

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Races to the Moon with the Space-Themed Supernova Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bremont Races Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Races to the Moon with the Space-Themed Supernova Chronograph

Because of the Artemis II launch earlier this month, the moon is all the rage again. That’s why the timing for Bremont’s Supernova Chronograph feels so auspicious: not only because it was designed with the stars in mind, but because it might actually go to the moon itself.  To promote the Supernova-which is an entirely new family, and not just a single release-Bremont is partnering with the aerospace company Astrolab, which is planning to send a FLIP (FLEX Lunar Innovation Platform) rover to the moon’s surface. In a future spacefaring reality, the Flexible Logistics & Exploration (FLEX) rover can traverse lunar and Martian terrain, delivering cargo with a 30-kg payload. That’s more than enough room to fit a Supernova, which will net Bremont as the first watch permanently placed on the moon’s surface. The Supernova Chronograph ticks the boxes of a terrestrial sports watch: with 100-meter water resistance, stainless-steel construction, and an integrated bracelet and optional rubber strap, it carries a bold presence that seems much tougher than the current lineup. The primarily brushed case, measuring 41mm and featuring smaller polished contrasts, is cushion-shaped, harkening to the midcentury enthusiasm for space exploration. The black bezel is made from ceramic and cut into ten sides.  The Supernova’s dial features contrasting triangular arrows and a geometrically aligned waffle pattern. On the main dial they’re both black, but in the subdials the triang...

First Look – The Piaget Polo 79 Returns in White Gold with a Blue Sodalite Dial Monochrome
Piaget Polo 79 Returns Apr 14, 2026

First Look – The Piaget Polo 79 Returns in White Gold with a Blue Sodalite Dial

Yves Piaget, fourth-generation member of the Piaget family, joined the company in the 1960s and cultivated the brand into a visible and global luxury player. Pushing the brand’s historical ultra-thin mechanical calibres 9P and 12P, and its ultra-slim quartz 7P movement into jewellery terrain, a new generation of fashionable jewellery watches with bright-coloured hardstone dials […]

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGY043 “Iwao Blue” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGY043 “Iwao Blue”

At Watches & Wonders 2026, Grand Seiko’s newest addition to the Elegance Collection brings together the things it does best. Namely, intricately textured dials with a nod to Japanese artistry, and its flagship Caliber 9R Spring Drive.  Engraved to resemble a weathered rock face, the SBGY043’s striking dial suggests the appearance of a mountain at dusk: Grand Seiko calls this pattern iwao, which translates to rock or crag. Depending on the angle it’s viewed from behind its domed sapphire crystal, different facets take on intermingling light and dark tones of blue, purple, and black. Its color is inspired by the tradition of katsuiro dyeing, a centuries-old technique and reportedly a favorite among the samurai class, which produces a deep indigo hue. Set against bright silver markers and hands - no blued seconds hand here, which is almost its own Grand Seiko tradition - it makes for an especially understated contrast.  This Iwao Blue version runs on the Caliber 9R31, a manual-wind Spring Drive movement with a 72-hour power reserve and visible through a clear caseback. The case is among the slimmest in the Elegance Collection, with standard zaratsu polishing and soft, rounded lugs. A nine-row stainless steel bracelet is the only option, which reflects the craggy-faced dial’s aura of ruggedness.  Grand Seiko enthusiasts, of which there are many, might remember this dial from 2021 - albeit in a sharp-angled Heritage case and with a Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive mov...

A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 14, 2026

A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns

A. Lange & Söhne has introduced the Saxonia Annual Calendar, the brand’s most compact annual calendar to date. Available in 18k white or pink gold, the Saxonia Annual Calendar plays to the strengths of Germany’s foremost watchmaker, combining a compact 36 mm case with an intuitive and legible ‘outsize date’ design reminiscent of the brand’s famed perpetual calendars. The new cal. L207.1 hints at future developments while incorporating refined details such as gold chatons around the going train jewels - a finishing touch that has been absent from the brand’s ‘entry-level’ automatic movements until now. Initial thoughts There’s been a palpable trend toward smaller watches in recent years - Lange’s 34 mm 1815 released last year was a major hit, and it seems like there’s more of a focus on dimensions and thickness than at any other time in the past decade or so. In this context, the Saxonia Annual Calendar should be well-received. At just 36 mm in diameter and under 10 mm thick, the watch is compact even by the standards of time-only watches. In fact, it’s the most compact annual calendar yet from Lange, and the small size of the dial makes the big date format especially convenient for those, like myself, who have trouble reading pointer dates at arm’s length. In fact, I’d argue the enhanced legibility and differentiated design of the big date makes the Saxonia Annual Calendar competitive with more complicated (but equally compact) perpetual ca...

Rolex Introduces A Day-Date 40 In The New Jubilee Gold With A Stunning Green Aventurine Dial Fratello
Rolex Introduces Apr 13, 2026

Rolex Introduces A Day-Date 40 In The New Jubilee Gold With A Stunning Green Aventurine Dial

Rolex introduces two “Exceptional Timepieces” that will immediately stand out to the brand’s fans. The biggest news is the release of the Rolex Day-Date 40 in the all-new Jubilee gold with a bright green aventurine dial. Jubilee gold is an 18K gold alloy entirely developed and produced in-house. The second new introduction is a Rolex […] Visit Rolex Introduces A Day-Date 40 In The New Jubilee Gold With A Stunning Green Aventurine Dial to read the full article.

Introducing – The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 100th Anniversary Edition Reference 134303 Monochrome
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 100th Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 100th Anniversary Edition Reference 134303

Rolex might have always been discreet, but it was and still is one of the leaders of innovation in watchmaking. Surely, some of these features were not meant to make headlines or to break records, but under their relative discretion and incremental evolution, many have changed the face of the industry and how we interact […]

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin In A 39.5mm Platinum Case Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin Apr 13, 2026

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin In A 39.5mm Platinum Case

It took a while, but the 2016 Overseas Ultra-Thin finally has a successor. Ten years after the launch of the 40 × 7.5mm white gold reference 2000V/120G-B122 with caliber 1120, a 39.5 × 7.35mm platinum timepiece debuts. Introducing the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin reference 2500V/210P-H028 outfitted with the new 2.4mm-thick caliber 2550 featuring a […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin In A 39.5mm Platinum Case to read the full article.

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 Returns to the Waterfront Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Apr 11, 2026

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 Returns to the Waterfront

If there’s a more beautiful place to spend a weekend surrounded by watches, we haven’t found it. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco returns… and yes, it’s still the one with all the views. We’re talking sweeping sightlines of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz sitting quietly in the distance, salt air rolling through Fort Mason and, if last year was any indication, the very real possibility of whales breaching right off the pier while you’re mid-conversation about your next watch. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Friday, May 1 – Sunday, May 3, 2026 Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture San Francisco, CA Free and open to everyone. No registration necessary. Inside Gateway Pavilion, you’ll find our Lead Sponsor brands who you know and love: Bremont, Brew, Christopher Ward, Frederique Constant, and Oris. We are so grateful for their ongoing support of Windup and the whole enthusiast community. Each Lead Sponsor will be sharing and debuting watches that are well worth seeing in person. Alongside their new releases, go hands-on with over 80 brands’ products from around the world and experience their craftsmanship firsthand. Here’s a list of just some of the other amazing brands attending this year’s Windup Watch Fair San Francisco: This year, the EDC Expo returns, presented by GiantMouse. Everyone at GiantMouse have been staunch supporters of the Windup Watch Fairs for years and we’re honored that they’ve stepped up this year to really cha...

How HTD’s New Phantom Finally Keeps The Pilot Watch Formula In Check Fratello
Apr 11, 2026

How HTD’s New Phantom Finally Keeps The Pilot Watch Formula In Check

Pilot’s watches have a habit of getting carried away with themselves. Some lean so hard into the heritage side that they end up feeling more like costume pieces than modern watches. I don’t know about you, but I’m not interested in cosplaying as a WWII fighter pilot. Others go big for the sake of it, […] Visit How HTD’s New Phantom Finally Keeps The Pilot Watch Formula In Check to read the full article.

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco - A Jump-Hour Watch From And For The Roaring Twenties Fratello
Chronoswiss Apr 10, 2026

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco - A Jump-Hour Watch From And For The Roaring Twenties

You’ve seen the combination of a jumping hour with sweeping retrograde minutes and a sub-seconds register before. The Delphis is, after all, one of Chronoswiss’s more recognizable creations. The dial layout is dominant but also open to different designs. At Chronoswiss HQ in Lucerne, the design team drew inspiration from the Art Deco movement that […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco - A Jump-Hour Watch From And For The Roaring Twenties to read the full article.

What Are 10 More Of The Best Dive Watches Under €1,000? Fratello
Apr 7, 2026

What Are 10 More Of The Best Dive Watches Under €1,000?

Two weeks ago, we brought you an article looking at some of the best dive watches under €1,000. Today, we’re continuing that feature with the second part. Before I go further, I should note a few things that I found while researching these stories. First, I have been surprised at how many watches I once […] Visit What Are 10 More Of The Best Dive Watches Under €1,000? to read the full article.

Recap: An Analog Evening with Accutron, Esterbrook, and The Brooklyn Scribe at the Windup Watch Shop Showroom Worn & Wound
Accutron Esterbrook Apr 3, 2026

Recap: An Analog Evening with Accutron, Esterbrook, and The Brooklyn Scribe at the Windup Watch Shop Showroom

Last Thursday evening, the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom played host to a packed house for a special event celebrating the intersection of watchmaking and writing instruments, with Accutron and Esterbrook taking center stage. Envisioned as an intimate opportunity to go hands-on with Accutron’s latest Spaceview 314 collection, the event quickly evolved into a lively, tactile experience that blended horology, craftsmanship, and a shared appreciation for design heritage. Guests filtered in throughout the evening, filling the space with energy as conversations sparked over Accutron’s open-work dials, Tuning Fork technology, and the parallels between both timekeeping and writing instruments. Accutron’s team was on hand to walk attendees through the technical and aesthetic nuances of the Spaceview 314, offering a closer look at the brand’s continued evolution of its Tuning Fork movement technology. American writing instrument maker, Esterbrook, unveiled a new fountain pen inspired by Accutron’s signature Spaceview design language, creating a compelling collab between the two brands-one rooted in time, the other in communication, but both strong examples of personal expression. But what truly elevated the evening was the addition of live, custom calligraphy by The Brooklyn Scribe. Throughout the night, guests were invited to commission personalized pieces, turning names, phrases, and moments into beautifully rendered works of art. The presence of hand letter...

Ferdinand Berthoud, Inverted: The Chronomètre FB 2TV.1 SJX Watches
Chopard s haut de gamme Apr 3, 2026

Ferdinand Berthoud, Inverted: The Chronomètre FB 2TV.1

Ferdinand Berthoud (FB), Chopard’s haut de gamme sub-brand, introduces its first flying tourbillon just weeks before Watches & Wonders. The Mesure du Temps 1787 Chronomètre FB 2TV.1 is exceptional in both quality and price, presenting almost everything of interest on the dial side - chain and fusee included - along with hacking and zero-reset seconds. The dial-side spectacle will be the calling card of the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. Initial thoughts The revival of long-dead masters’ names to sell unrelated watches is a practice that invites scepticism - and often deserves it. The Ferdinand Berthoud brand, however, is a different matter. There is nothing cynical about it, and one suspects the man himself wouldn’t mind being associated with some of the finest mechanical watches being made today - in his home town, no less. A different name on the dial, Scheufele perhaps, might still feel more authentic, but that’s a minor quibble with what is otherwise an overwhelmingly high quality watch. The latest take on the brand’s chronometer-inspired formula adds one of my favourite features: a zero-reset seconds hand. Though I prefer the designs of the brand’s past projects, the FB 2TV.1 suggests the team at FB understands what the market wants, and the movement-as-a-dial aesthetic is hot right now. The flying tourbillon is new for the brand, in both technique and aesthetics. Until now the brand’s massive revolving regulators were secreted away on the...

If You Missed Out on One of the Coolest Releases at British Watchmakers’ Day, Apiar Has You Covered with the Gen1.1 Night Tube Worn & Wound
Apr 2, 2026

If You Missed Out on One of the Coolest Releases at British Watchmakers’ Day, Apiar Has You Covered with the Gen1.1 Night Tube

Whenever I go to a watch event, whether that’s a local meetup, Watches & Wonders, or one of our own Windup fairs, my brain does that thing where upon leaving, I’m trying to figure out the MVP from that event. Not that the watches are in competition with one another – it’s just how I organize my thoughts, figuring out what I liked the most. Coming out of British Watchmakers’ Day last month, the clear MVP for me was the extremely limited Apiar Gen1.1 Underground. I reviewed an early version of this watch last year and was really impressed, and this limited edition (just three pieces!) had a London Underground inspired dial made by The Dial Artist himself that really won me over. I’m a bit of a public transportation nerd so this one called out to me in a strong way, and I admit that I left London last month with a twinge of regret that I didn’t pull the trigger on this watch when I had the chance. Luckily for at least some of us (but not me, I’m tapped out, really) Apiar has followed up the Gen1.1 Underground with a predictable but very welcome sequel, the Gen1.1 Night Tube. As you can probably gather from the name of the watch and the photos, this is effectively a blacked out version of the Underground, because people, of course, ride the subway at all hours of the night in London. This marks the first time Apiar has used a DLC coating on one of their watch cases. Aesthetically, it really shifts the focus to the dial, which I think takes on a brighter quality...

Stéphane Pierre’s Inaugural L’Impétrant is Bi-Retrograde SJX Watches
Apr 2, 2026

Stéphane Pierre’s Inaugural L’Impétrant is Bi-Retrograde

A new independent voice emerges with the L’Impétrant, the debut watch from Stéphane Pierre, combining a bi-retrograde time display with an architecturally distinctive movement. Put together by an all-star roster of specialists, the L’Impétrant is a fresh take on a familiar format. Initial thoughts The central question with any debuting independent is whether ambition matches execution. Stéphane Pierre’s L’Impétrant is quirky and eccentric - and just as importantly seems well made thanks to the efforts of some 20 contributing specialists across fields such as movement construction, machining, electroplating, stamping and finishing. Given the evergreen popularity of the high-end, time-only format, it may well find its audience. The L’Impétrant’s visual staple is a set of enormous 19 mm retrograde hands - one for the minutes and the other for the hours. The bi-retrograde complication is no longer uncommon, but The L’Impétrant’s overlapping arrangement of the hands, and the luxurious construction of the mechanism, is unusual, helping it stand out within this niche. The mastermind behind the L’Impétrant has had an unusual career. Stéphane Pierre originally trained as a mechanical engineer and, intriguingly, has spent time working for both the Swatch Group and in the military sector. The L’Impétrant is essentially a very high-end time-only watch, and as such it enters a crowded market. However, rather than just developing a basic time-only watch...