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Pie Pan Dial Omega

Faceted multi-level dial designed by Pierre Vibert for the 1952 Omega Constellation; modern Globemaster reissue.

Introducing: The Arken Alterum Sage Grey Hodinkee
Ming May 21, 2026

Introducing: The Arken Alterum Sage Grey

What We Know Arken, the UK-based microbrand, has come back into the spotlight with the next public edition of its popular traveler dual-time watch, this time with a "Sage Grey" dial. It follows two preceding versions, one with a grey dial and one with a black dial, both of which were introduced back in 2023 and offered first as 200-piece preorders, a restock, and then an open-ended run early last year. While those versions are no longer available to order online, Arken founder Kenneth Lam told me that those editions can still be found at shows and via the brand's slowly growing network of retailers. And while the brand was busy assembling watches and fulfilling these orders all of last year, those who keep a close eye on the brand or have gone to any of Arken's meetups will know that a few "Speakeasy" editions have since popped up, available only in person and at these specific shows and meetups, often coming with a Cerakoted case. But finally, this new Sage Grey Alterum marks another reference that will be available to the broader public.  First introduced earlier this year at British Watchmakers' Day, this new dial takes the classic British racing green and desaturates it to an extreme, offering only a small hint of its verdant nature in what otherwise appears to be a quite monochromatic dial. A sand-colored dual-time hand adds a subtle touch of warmth to the otherwise cool dial, which complements the grey hue of the 38mm grade 2 titanium case. On the dial, two small ci...

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 “Seven Poets” SJX Watches
May 21, 2026

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 “Seven Poets”

FVF Genève founder Franc Vila has created a unique piece of his flagship tourbillon for a noted European collector of independent and complicated watches who goes by @thedeadwatchsociety on Instagram. The FVF1 Tourbillon “Seven Poets” is a romantic twist on the day complication that assigns a daily reading from one of seven historical poets. Initial thoughts Franc Vila is a man of many passions. His atelier in central Geneva is packed with art, and each piece has a story — I can’t think of anyone better to create a poetry-themed watch. Neither, it seems, could the lucky owner who commissioned the Seven Poets. The watch is fundamentally similar to the standard FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, with its 42.5 mm case, titanium monocoque construction, seven-sided day roller, and flying tourbillon architecture. Even in its basic configuration, the FVF1 is a distinctive offering that relaunched Mr Vila’s career after he parted ways with his eponymous brand. But the Seven Poets is anything but basic. Like the “Today” edition reviewed last year, the Seven Poets deviates from the norms of traditional watchmaking. Instead of indicating the day of the week, the day roller has been repurposed to feature the hand-engraved names of seven poets that are personally meaningful to the owner who commissioned the watch. I liked the conceptual, philosophical statement made by the “Today” edition, and the Seven Poets takes it one step further. This simple change to an indicat...

Introducing: The Beaucroft Contour GMT And Solaris GMT Limited Edition In Collaboration With Time+Tide Fratello
Beaucroft May 16, 2026

Introducing: The Beaucroft Contour GMT And Solaris GMT Limited Edition In Collaboration With Time+Tide

Cambridge-based independent watchmaker Beaucroft announces two new timepieces focused on the GMT function. Crossing time zones is part of the job as an independent watchmaker sourcing components, building connections, and constantly spreading the word. That daily grind makes the GMT complication a natural next step for Beaucroft. Tracking dual time zones keeps the wearer punctual […] Visit Introducing: The Beaucroft Contour GMT And Solaris GMT Limited Edition In Collaboration With Time+Tide to read the full article.

Is Longines’ New 39mm Hydroconquest The Best Modern Longines? (Review) WatchAdvice
Longines New 39mm Hydroconquest May 16, 2026

Is Longines’ New 39mm Hydroconquest The Best Modern Longines? (Review)

Longines has taken great strides into revising their Hydroconquest line, but is it the collection’s best version yet? Let’s find out! What We Love: Clean, modern design Excellent value proposition Comfortably wearing mesh bracelet What We Don’t: No tool-less interchangeability The illusion of the mesh bracelet is lost up close Is it the same Hydroconquest? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Though I’ve said it ad nauseam, it’s become common knowledge that Longines is one of the most consistent brands in the watch world. Whether it be their logo remaining unchanged since 1867 or their ability to produce high-quality watches at an impressive price point, the Swatch Group brand has remained an industry staple. Longines has long defined itself through a dependable, heritage-inspired aesthetic. However, the 2020s have seen the brand begin to test the waters of modern design. While old-school styles like the Master, Flagship, and Spirit still remain, both the Conquest and HydroConquest lines have been redefined with a more contemporary, 21st-century look. For this review, we’ll be focusing on the latter. Matt had the opportunity to share his thoughts on the 42mm version of the HydroConquest, but now I get to tackle the 39mm version with the ice-blue dial. First Impressions It didn’t surprise me that the Longines HydroConquest received a revamp. Admittedly, after the HydroConquest GMTs were released, i...

Get in Line: the Swatch x Audemars Piguet “Royal Pop” Arrives this Weekend Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Royal Pop” Arrives May 12, 2026

Get in Line: the Swatch x Audemars Piguet “Royal Pop” Arrives this Weekend

Well, it’s here. After a great deal of speculation, Swatch and Audemars Piguet’s new “Royal Pop” collaboration has been unveiled. Only a few years ago, a partnership between Swatch, known mostly for inexpensive, colorful quartz watches that often serve as a gateway to a life of watch enthusiasm, and Audemars Piguet, a “Holy Trinity” brand that makes the Royal Oak, one of the most exclusive and coveted watches in the world, would have felt impossible. But the MoonSwatch changed all that, and now it seems like just about anything is possible in the world of high/low collaborations.  The first thing to point out is the very obvious fact that this is not a wristwatch. These are, in fact, pocket watches, in bioceramic Royal Oak shaped cases. There are eight watches in total in two different styles, and they are powered by manually sound SISTEM51 movements.  The Royal Oak design motifs are easy to identify here. Each has the expected “Petite Tapisserie” dial that the Royal Oak is known for, as well as an 8 sided bezel. They even included the hexagonal screws.  Let’s go through the multiple variants of the Royal Pop. First we have the “Lépine” style case, which has a crown located at the 12:00 position. There are six colorways of the Lépine style case: Otto Rosso (pink and red), Huit Blanc (white with rainbow accents), Green Eight (green on green), Orenji Hachi (navy with orange accents), Blaue Acht (lime green and light blue) and Ocho Negro (black and ...

Introducing - The Baltic Rally Timer Tour Auto 2026 is the Set You Need for your Classic Car Monochrome
Baltic Rally Timer Tour Auto May 6, 2026

Introducing - The Baltic Rally Timer Tour Auto 2026 is the Set You Need for your Classic Car

Seasoned divers, like our own Derek, will all tell you that, in our day and age, a mechanical dive watch isn’t truly relevant anymore, having been replaced by diving computers. And yet, either for safety or emotional reasons, many still use an old-school timepiece during their seasons. In the world of classic car rallies, the […]

Holocaust Survivor’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual To Go Up For Auction Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual May 6, 2026

Holocaust Survivor’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual To Go Up For Auction

We have covered quite a few historical stories about Rolex here on the Fratello site. Today, we have another, this time about a special gold Oyster Perpetual that belonged to Holocaust survivor Kurt Kahn. Let’s dive in. Some watches merely tell time, while others tell stories. Very rarely, one encounters a piece that does both […] Visit Holocaust Survivor’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual To Go Up For Auction to read the full article.

Auctions: Continuing Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Christie’s and Sotheby’s Round Things Out (Part 2) Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Observatory-style watch Photo courtesy May 5, 2026

Auctions: Continuing Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Christie’s and Sotheby’s Round Things Out (Part 2)

There's no shortage of watches this auction season—more than 1,200 lots across the major houses—but volume isn't really the story. At Christie's and Sotheby's, the focus feels different this time around, moving past the hype-driven pieces of the early 2020s and back to some genuinely compelling and surprising watches. Last week, we published part one of our preview—today, we're finishing it up with part two. Christie’s I would argue that Christie's always has one of the more subtle and yet impressive catalogs. There are some truly fantastic pieces here and, as always, we'll start at the top. Lot 134, a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. Photo courtesy Christie's. If you're looking for a watch that my friend and current "Bring a Loupe" writer Weston Cutter called an "immediate knee-weakener," you need to sit down for this one. Lot 134 is a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. The watch is powered by a 13-ligne 13VZAS movement that was highly modified for precision as a time-only watch, with a large subsidiary seconds at 9 o'clock and a blank subdial at 3 o'clock. Bold numerals, bold design, it's the kind of thing you dream about if you collect early watches, and the estimate is a hilarious CHF 50,000 to 100,000. It should go for way m...

Our Favorites from Watches & Wonders Week Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGZ011 “Mystic Waterfall” So Apr 30, 2026

Our Favorites from Watches & Wonders Week

As we do every year when we come back from Watches & Watches, we asked our team to pick their favorite releases of the show. This article is always telling, because our team has a way of looking beyond the hype and zeroing in on watches with real personal appeal. As always, it’s fun to see the logic behind these picks, whether they represent watches our team members would actually want to own, or were simply novelties they were overwhelmed by in the moment.  Be sure to let us know your favorites from Watches & Wonders week in the comments below, we’d love to hear about them.  Zach Weiss – Grand Seiko SBGZ011 “Mystic Waterfall” So many watches, so many wonders, how does one even begin to choose a favorite? Well, for me, the test is after a few days of being away from the show, what I am still thinking about. And this year, while there are a few, the one that impressed me not just as a watch, but as a piece of art was the Grand Seiko SBGZ011 “Mystic Waterfall.” Every few years, Grand Seiko drops one of their breathtaking hand carved watches, but none have been quite like this, at least for me. You see, the SBGZ011 has two firsts: it’s based on the 45GS case, my personal favorite, and it’s the first time the dial has been hand-engraved, too. Inspired by the Tateshina Waterfall, the SBGZ011 has been meticulously hand-carved on all surfaces of its 950 platinum case with an undulating, organic motif of marks that, at once, appear like flowers or little explos...

Auctions: Phillips Bringing Three Mega Pateks to Its Spring Sales Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Apr 23, 2026

Auctions: Phillips Bringing Three Mega Pateks to Its Spring Sales

We'll have further auction coverage in the coming weeks, but it's worth giving Phillips a bit more attention, as it continues to lead in year-over-year sales. The auction house sold a record total of over $290 million in watches last year and has had five years in a row with over $200 million in sales. The market has shifted (I'd argue at least twice) in the past few years, but despite the growing F.P. Journe, independent, and pocket watch (yes, pocket watch) markets, the top lots for Phillips continue to be Patek Philippe. At each of their spring auctions, Phillips is selling an important Patek to headline the sale, and each is the kind of watch that could be the pinnacle of the world's top collections. Normal caveat here: I haven't seen these watches in person yet, and anyone considering bidding should make sure to check any watch in person if at all possible. A Patek Philippe ref. 2523 Two-Crown World Time With Cloissoné Enamel South America Dial First, we have the star of Geneva, to be sold on May 9: the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 two-crown world time with cloisonné enamel map of South America, from 1953. Aside from rare variants of 2499s or 1518s (and a few repeaters), these two-crown watches, with their incredible, angular lugs and giant open canvas at the center of the dial, have become the holiest of Holy Grails for many collectors. They are rare enough to be hunted and coveted, but there are also enough out there to be studied, understood, and codified. Too rare o...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...

First Look - Favre Leuba Launches the New 1737 Collection with a Triple Calendar Edition Monochrome
Favre Leuba Launches Apr 18, 2026

First Look - Favre Leuba Launches the New 1737 Collection with a Triple Calendar Edition

The second-oldest name in watchmaking history, Favre Leuba’s origins go back to 1737, when Abraham Favre was recorded as a watchmaker in Le Locle. Following a global relaunch in 2024 under the leadership of CEO Patrik P. Hoffmann, Favre Leuba’s modern revival focuses on precision-driven timepieces that honour the brand’s extensive archives while meeting contemporary […]

Vacheron Constantin Wanders to the Four Corners of Earth SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Wanders Apr 16, 2026

Vacheron Constantin Wanders to the Four Corners of Earth

Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points”, a four-watch collection which can be traced back to the prototype that accompanied Cory Richards on his climb on Everest back in 2019. Initial thoughts The Overseas collection is Vacheron Constantin’s own take on the luxury sports steel watch. Compared to similar offerings from Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin actively advertises the Overseas as a timepiece fit to be worn adventurously. The 2019 collaboration with photographer and climber Cory Richards proved that the Overseas Dual Time is as comfortable on the peaks of Everest as it is navigating boardrooms.  This “Cardinal Points” collection refines and finishes the the Dual Time prototype piece from 2019.  The four new references each come in a different colour scheme evocative of one cardinal point. The functional styling of the Everest prototype was kept intact, but the additional dial colours help the Dual Time appeal to a broader audience.  According to Vacheron Constantin, the white suggests the icy North, brown evokes the fertile lands of the South, green represents West with its forests and finally blue signifies the Eastern line of the horizon. Although these associations might feel a bit forced, the idea of linking the Overseas Dual Time with the cardinal points stems from the fact that such a travel watch usually accompanies a traveler - who is at least symbolically guided by a compass and the cardinal p...

Watches & Wonders: My Favorite Ingenieurs from IWC’s 2026 Releases Worn & Wound
IWC s 2026 Releases IWC Apr 15, 2026

Watches & Wonders: My Favorite Ingenieurs from IWC’s 2026 Releases

IWC is not a brand that quickly moves on from a release. Rather, any new watch is also the launch of a platform that will, for several years at least, see new models in terms of colors, sizes, materials, and complications. In doing so, their catalog is vast yet focused, as each line is thematic yet deeply explored. Since relaunching in 2023, the Genta-derived, integrated bracelet, luxury tool watch that is the Ingenieur has steadily expanded to now cover three sizes, multiple materials, many colors, and one complication, totaling 12 SKUs (before Watches & Wonders releases). For 2026, the expansion continues with several new references, including a tourbillon, and two models that kind of blew me away. I had the fortune of getting to spend some time with IWC’s 2026 novelties before the big show, and while several are striking (I mean, that full Ceralume perpetual is one of the most bonkers watches I’ve seen in a while), the two that I have kept thinking about are the Ingenieur automatic in green ceramic, and the full titanium perpetual. Starting with the former, IWC is no stranger to ceramic. In fact, they debuted the first ceramic watch in 1986. While many brands have adopted the material since, IWC’s earthy palette of green, khaki, and blue retains a certain understated charm. The 42mm Ingenieur has existed in black ceramic for at least a year now. While sleek, stealthy, and a logical edition, it wasn’t all too surprising. The full green ceramic, however, is a bit....

First Look - The Favre Leuba Harpoon Revival Monochrome
Favre Leuba Harpoon Revival Following Apr 15, 2026

First Look - The Favre Leuba Harpoon Revival

Following a global relaunch in 2024 under the leadership of CEO Patrik P. Hoffmann, Favre Leuba’s modern revival focuses on precision-driven timepieces that honour the brand’s extensive archives while meeting contemporary mechanical expectations. Marking the brand’s debut at Watches & Wonders this year, Favre Leuba releases the Harpoon Revival, a faithful 60th-anniversary tribute to the […]

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Surprises with the Oddly Appealing Monarch Worn & Wound
Tudor Surprises Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Surprises with the Oddly Appealing Monarch

Tudor is at its best when they surprise. Sure, there have been some controversial pieces over the years, like the North Flag and P01 (though I’d argue they were both very successful as attention grabbers), but watches like the BB54, BB58 925, and even FXD took us off guard when they first dropped. This year, Tudor has followed suit with the Monarch, a watch that took us off guard in the press release but impressed in person. Before getting to the watch, it was made clear to us that although this year marks 100 years of the brand, they aren’t throwing a big celebration for themselves, nor did they release a watch specifically dedicated to the centennial anniversary. The Monarch, which is a spiritual recreation or tribute to an early 20th-century Tudor model, is meant to acknowledge said birthday. So, basically, don’t call it an anniversary watch, just an anniversary-like watch. Ok, with that out of the way, let’s take a look at this surprisingly cool new model. Measuring 39mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and, I’m estimating, as this dimension was not provided, in the neighborhood of 48mm lug-to-lug, so basically BB58 sized, the Monarch, despite some vintage cues, looked and felt pleasantly modern on the wrist. The case, made of stainless steel, was quite different from others in the Tudor lineup. It had hooded, aggressively chamfered lugs, with a sharply faceted drop-off. There were also flat segments on either side of the case, emphasizing a geometric overall shape...

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is Ready for Takeoff SJX Watches
Patek Philippe 5164 but only Apr 14, 2026

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is Ready for Takeoff

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is a meaningful addition to its collection of sport watches. While the brand’s convenient push-button dual-time complication is not new, it has never been available in the go-anywhere, do-anything format of the Sport line - where it arguably makes the most sense. It’s also the first time this travel complication has been paired with one of the brand’s lever escapement movements, a change that should provide the resilience against shocks that one expects from a sport watch. Initial thoughts The sport has proven to be one of Laurent Ferrier’s most popular watches, introducing the brand to a wider audience by combining sports watch ruggedness with the high-horology independent watchmaking that the brand has become famous for. In this sense, the Sport Traveller is similar in philosophy to other luxury sport watches. That said, few manage to elevate the concept quite as high as Laurent Ferrier. The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus and F.P. Journe Octa Sport Titanium are natural peers, as is the Patek Philippe 5164, but only the latter offers a travel time complication. The Sport Traveller is made from grade 5 titanium for a featherweight wrist presence, and debuts in what is likely to be a popular grey-on-grey colourway. Even the Sport Traveller dial text is grey, blending in with the dial to help keep the clutter to a minimum. The cal. LF275.01 continues the monochromatic look with grey-coated bridges and a solid platinum oscillating wei...

Three New Grand Seiko Spring Drive Models For Watches And Wonders 2026 - The SBGY043, SBGD228, And SBGZ011 Fratello
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Models Apr 14, 2026

Three New Grand Seiko Spring Drive Models For Watches And Wonders 2026 - The SBGY043, SBGD228, And SBGZ011

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive family takes center stage at Watches and Wonders 2026 with three new releases. From the SBGY043, a relatively restrained daily wearer, to the SBGD228, a full-blown jewelry watch, this beloved Japanese brand covers a wide spectrum while sticking to its unique design ethos. What stands out this year is how […] Visit Three New Grand Seiko Spring Drive Models For Watches And Wonders 2026 - The SBGY043, SBGD228, And SBGZ011 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin In A 39.5mm Platinum Case Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin Apr 13, 2026

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin In A 39.5mm Platinum Case

It took a while, but the 2016 Overseas Ultra-Thin finally has a successor. Ten years after the launch of the 40 × 7.5mm white gold reference 2000V/120G-B122 with caliber 1120, a 39.5 × 7.35mm platinum timepiece debuts. Introducing the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin reference 2500V/210P-H028 outfitted with the new 2.4mm-thick caliber 2550 featuring a […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin In A 39.5mm Platinum Case to read the full article.

Sinn Introduces the 544 and 544 RS Ahead of their First Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet technically independent Apr 8, 2026

Sinn Introduces the 544 and 544 RS Ahead of their First Watches & Wonders

Sinn makes their Watches & Wonders debut this year. It’s kind of a big deal, or should be, in our community, and honestly it’s not being talked about enough. Watches & Wonders is the premier trade show in our industry, but unlike Basel World (where Sinn was well represented before that show’s demise) it’s not a full representation of the watch industry. It’s selective, and focused primarily on luxury brands that are part of large luxury groups, and primarily Swiss luxury brands at that. This year’s show expands in a meaningful way with the addition not just of Sinn, but of Credor (a Japanese brand) and Audemars Piguet (technically independent, and inarguably one of the most important brands in our industry commercially). But Sinn feels like ours, they are an enthusiast staple through and through.  Sinn has announced a small series of novelties ahead of Watches & Wonders, and we’ll be bringing you coverage of all of them after we get some hands-on time with the watches next week. But today we’ll focus just for a moment on what is likely the most straightforward, tool oriented release of the bunch, and maybe of the entire Watches & Wonders event this year, the 544 and 544 RS. I’m not a huge fan of the “Go Anywhere, Do Anything” tag that often gets lumped in with watches like this, but that, I think, is truly what we are looking at here. The 544 is a completely new offering from the brand, but collectors will likely notice that the case seems derived fr...

Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber Worn & Wound
Wolbrook Apr 6, 2026

Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber

I’d like to think I am a bit of a movement nerd. Not in the sense of knowing all of the technical attributes (actually, I wish I knew more there), but rather about what movements are on the market from the major suppliers. Hand me a watch, even with a complication, and I can probably tell you what movement it has in a matter of seconds (assuming it’s mechanical) by the positioning of the hands, complications, rotor bearing, etc. So, last fall, when I was handed a prototype of a new chronograph by Wolbrook and, upon seeing the dial, realized I had no idea what movement it had, my interest was piqued. The watch was the Wolbrook Jetflyer, which I have since had the opportunity to spend more time with. An extension of the French brand’s proven line of tool dive watches based on vintage models, the Jetflyer is their first foray into mechanical chronographs. As the name suggests, the Jetflyer is not meant as a “dive” chronograph, but rather as a pilot’s, though that’s largely semantics, as there are a lot of overlaps in design language (and the WR is 100m). I’ll get back to the particulars of the design, because what really stands out is the movement. $845 Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber Case Stainless Steel Movement Jeambrun PS 6402 Dial Mattte Black Lume X1 Super-Luminova Lens Domed Sapphire Strap Leather or Bracelet Water Resistance 100m Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 14.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw-d...

Revisiting The IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Automatic TOP GUN Editions Review WatchAdvice
IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Automatic Mar 31, 2026

Revisiting The IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Automatic TOP GUN Editions Review

In a slimmer 41mm case size, the time-only versions of IWC Schaffhausen’s TOP GUN Editions are great daily watches. We went hands-on with each to see which was the favourite! What We Love The white ceramic on the Lake Tahoe is super fresh. The size and lighter weight make these very easy-to-wear watches Both rubber straps are comfortable, and each has nice design touches. What We Don’t The Mojave Desert can blend into your skin depending on your skin type  The anti-reflective coating on the slightly domed crystal does make it hard to take a good photo! The luminescence on the hands and dial could be better and of a higher grade. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This article was originally published as IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Automatic TOP GUN Editions Review First Impressions When I first saw the white Lake Tahoe Pilot’s Watch 41 Top Gun earlier this year, I was keen to get both it and the Mojave Desert model to compare them properly. My initial impression? They’re essentially the same watch, just in different colourways, with the Mojave on a fabric-inlaid rubber strap and the Lake Tahoe on straight rubber. But sometimes, that slight aesthetic difference makes all the impact, as I was to find out! The Lake Tahoe feels fresh and bold. With its all-white case and strap against a black dial, it jumps off the wrist. The Mojave Desert, with its sand-coloured case, strap, and matching indices on a gre...

Hazemann & Monnin Wins 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Today Mar 25, 2026

Hazemann & Monnin Wins 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize

Today in Paris a panel of five judges – including Carole Forestier-Kasapi and Kari Voutilainen – presented Alexandre Hazemann and Victor Monnin with the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. The very same young watchmakers who won the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition in 2023, the pair clinched the prize for their jump-hour “School Watch”. Launched in 2023 by Jean Arnault, who has spearheaded Louis Vuitton’s fine watchmaking ambitions, the initiative supports promising independent watchmakers while burnishing the maison’s credibility in the watch world. Last year the trophy – and its matching Louis Vuitton trunk – went to Raul Pages for his RP1 Régulateur à Détente. This edition’s victors met at Lycée Edgar Faure, a technical high school in Morteau, France, which is well known for its strong and respected watch and jewellery bent. Their aptly named School Watch developed from the pair’s school watch project. They have since set up shop in Saint-Aubin-Sauges, Switzerland, though both will now have the option of a one-year apprenticeship at Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps manufacture in Geneva, in addition to financial support. In December, a Committee culled the 20 semifinalists, which we covered here, down to just five in December and appointed a five-person panel to select the winner. Other finalists included Norifumi Seki, who debuted the ambitious Fading Hours alarm watch, and Bernhard Lederer. Carole Forestier-Kasapi pr...

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Review: Utility Meets Horology Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Mar 19, 2026

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Review: Utility Meets Horology

Blancpain, founded in the Swiss village of Villeret in 1735, has been making timepieces for almost 300 years, but perhaps its most impactful contribution to wristwatch history was relatively recent - and began its heralded life as a military tool rather than a luxury item. In 1953,  Blancpain was headed by Jean-Jacques Fiechter, an avid diving enthusiast who had long wanted to develop a watch that would be ideal for his hobby. Fiechter worked with Captain Robert Maloubier, a French naval officer, to design a reliable, mission-ready timepiece that Maloubier’s elite combat diving team could wear. Here we will take a look at the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, a more everyday take on the iconic diver. [toc-section heading="Blancpain Fifty Fathoms: A Historic Divers’ Watch"] The watch, called the Fifty Fathoms, had a 42mm steel case - exceptionally large for the time - and it was water-resistant to 91.45 meters, or 50 fathoms, the maximum depth recommended for scuba divers. Its dial was black and its numerals were luminescent for greater legibility underwater. It was the first divers’ watch with a self-winding movement, the first with an antimagnetic case, and the first to employ the patented, double-sealed crown that Fiechter had developed. Most notably, the Fifty Fathoms was the first watch to include a lockable bezel with dive-time scale that rotated in only one direction. This practical and potentially life-saving innovation prevented a diver from acciden...

Seiko’s New Marinemaster Gives the People What They Want SJX Watches
Seiko s New Marinemaster Gives Mar 18, 2026

Seiko’s New Marinemaster Gives the People What They Want

Less than two years out from its 2024 relaunch, Seiko refreshes its flagship dive watch with the new Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch HBF001 and its limited edition counterpart, the HBF002. Both models feature a ceramic bezel, longer power reserve, better promised timekeeping, and a much-requested tool-less micro-adjust clasp - tangible upgrades that justify a near 25% premium over the previous generation. The regular production model launches alongside a more flamboyant 1,000-piece limited edition designed in collaboration with the Japan Agency for Marine-Earth Science and Technology (JAMSTEC). Initial thoughts Seiko relaunched the Marinemaster brand three years ago with an unexpected trio of compact skin-divers. This was followed by a return to form the following year with a pair of 300 m Hi-Beat Diver-inspired models that dispensed with the “Professional” branding, front-loading case construction, and helium impermeability that distinguished Marinemasters of the past, but offered a more compact 42 mm size and a much improved bracelet. However, it still used the same stamped clasp body found on entry-level divers, just with an upgraded swing arm, and relied on the aging cal. 8L35 movement while Seiko rolled out the improved cal. 8L45 in the similarly priced King Seiko Vanac. The new HBF001 solves all of those problems, and introduces only a few new ones. Given the similarity to the SLA079, Seiko clearly felt the need for unambiguous differentiatio...

ArtyA’s Curvy Tourbillon Gets A Cosmic Twist In Moissanite Fratello
Mar 17, 2026

ArtyA’s Curvy Tourbillon Gets A Cosmic Twist In Moissanite

One of the things I’ve learned over the years is that ArtyA watches tend to reward the experience of seeing them in person. Photographs rarely tell us the full story. The brand’s fascination with unusual materials and unconventional case designs often produces pieces that behave very differently in person. Rest assured, the new Purity Moissanite […] Visit ArtyA’s Curvy Tourbillon Gets A Cosmic Twist In Moissanite to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Mar 16, 2026

Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel

The 150 Heritage pocket watch, the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, and the skeletonized Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar might have stolen most of the limelight when Audemars Piguet presented many novelties in January. Nevertheless, the pieces I was probably most curious to see and try on were a series of three tool watches. Well, these are […] Visit Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel to read the full article.

Introducing - Indie Brand Akhor Launches the Lumiere Blanche Editions Monochrome
Mar 16, 2026

Introducing - Indie Brand Akhor Launches the Lumiere Blanche Editions

Geneva-based independent brand Akhor presented its inaugural Le Temps en Équilibre collection in 2025, built around a patented dual-disc display system, and it was immediately recognised for its innovative dial concept and proprietary movement. The new Lumière Blanche editions expand the concept with a new artistic direction, where white becomes the central design element. The […]