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New: Ressence Type 1 Slim X
Ressence celebrates 10 years with the newType 1 Slim X - olive green dial with 2 sides - 1 side in matte and the other brushed with a circular grain.
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Breguet Introduces the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097
Breguet is one of the grandest names in watchmaking, and mostly makes watches that are rooted in its history. The aptly named Tradition exudes, well, tradition. Modelled on the souscription pocket watch created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the wide-ranging collection has been gently modernised in recent years. The newly-announced Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 continues that trend, with a dark blue guilloché dial against a grey movement. Initial thoughts This version of the Tradition 7097 is possibly my favourite yet, mostly because of the off-centre dial in blue. Engine-turned by hand, the blue dial is striking against the monochromatic movement. And it looks especially appealing when compared against the earlier versions that have plainer and more conventional silvered dials, which offer less contrast against the movement. But as with all other Tradition watches, there’s a nit to pick here: the serial number plaque on the dial makes it look a bit cluttered, especially since the dial is small to begin with. One solution would be to put the serial numbers beside the Breguet logo, as done on the female Tradition Dame 7038. And while I like the retrograde seconds, its position feels awkward as it cuts into the sub-dial. Though intersecting indicators are a feature in some historical Breguet pocket watches, the face of the Tradition is a bit too small to accommodate it comfortably. The white gold case is in classic Breguet style a delicately-fluted ...
Quill & Pad
RGM Re-Creates Iconic View Of Yosemite National Park In Stone Marquetry
For anybody missing the fantastic views in Yosemite National Park during this era of non-travel, RGM has something special for just two lucky owners: a watch with a beautiful stone marquetry dial offering one of the most iconic views of this national treasure that features three of its most prominent landmarks.
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The Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine
The HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine offers a spectacular solid gold moon phase sitting above the sparkling blue aventurine quartz dial and paired with an in-house Arnold & Son mechanical calibre. Demonstrating its British history and Swiss savoir-faire, Arnold & Son presents the HM Perpetual Moon with a beautifully decorative blue aventurine quartz dial, limited toRead More
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248, a study in the magic pairing of gold and blue
Editor’s note: We all love blue watches. That much is clear, with the popularity of the blue dial stainless steel sports watch escalating almost beyond belief in 2019 and still in 2020. Both vintage and modern examples of blue watches from a few of the best watch manufacturers in the world command ever-increasing prices as appetites … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248, a study in the magic pairing of gold and blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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5 GREAT Watches I CAN'T Wear
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New: Yema Flygraf Pilot
In addition to the Superman Heritage 63, Yema also announced a new Flygraph Pilot watches with two dial options - in matte black and matte grey.
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Grand Seiko SBGP015 60th Anniversary Quartz
Grand Seiko released a collection of blue dial models for its 60th Anniversary. It comprises a 44GS hi-beat automatic, ladies watches and 2 Quartz models. Grand Seiko SBGP015 60th Anniversary Quartz Case and Dial The stainless steel Grand Seiko SBGP015 measures 40 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm in thickness. An attractive deep blue ceramicRead More
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New: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone – with new movement (webinar invite!)
The Lange 1 Time Zone gets an update with a new in-house caliber movement and dial changes 15 years after its introduction. What has changed? What remains?
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the New Lange 1 Time Zone
One of the most high-spec travel watches on the market, the Lange 1 Time Zone has just gotten a major revamp. The new Lange 1 Time Zone looks pretty much like the old one, but it’s powered by a brand-new movement that’s been developed from the ground up. Though it retains the same functions as before – plus a basic daylight savings time reminder – the dial has been improved, both in terms of display as well as details. Initial thoughts The original Lange 1 Time Zone was an ambitious travel watch that did a lot – twin time zones with individual day and night indicators, cities disc, oversized date, and power reserve. Functionality was maximised, but the interface and display was complex. The new Lange 1 Time Zone takes it a step further with the addition of a simple daylight savings time reminder that’s discreet enough to be almost invisible. But because the watch still has so many features, the interface inevitably remains complex, with two pushers plus a crown, making it a bit fiddly to use. Add to that the large and heavy case, and the Lange 1 Time Zone isn’t the most practical of travel watches. It really is for someone who appreciates the technical complexity and also enjoys interacting with the watch. Technical accomplishment remains an appeal in the new model. In typical Lange style, the new watch is powered by a movement developed from the ground up. A substantial amount of effort was expended to retain the same look – as was done with the Lange 1 ...
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TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition
Early in the year, TAG Heuer unveiled the Carrera 160 Years Silver, a remake of the Carrera 2447S from 1964 – a watch many consider the quintessential vintage Heuer. Continuing with the 160th anniversary commemoration, TAG Heuer has just debuted the the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition. Limited to 1000 pieces, the Montreal Edition has an eye-catching dial inspired by the funky Heuer Montreal (ref. 110503W) of 1972. The colours give a different dimensions to the Carrera 2447S, which was historically offered only in no-nonsense colours of black or silver. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Montreal Edition has a completely different personality compared to the Silver Edition that preceded it, despite both being essentially the same watch. While the latter is more restrained and somber with its monochromatic colours, the latest edition is fun and casual thanks to the colours taken from the white-dial Heuer Montreal (which was also available in black and blue). I like my watches to be understated, so I prefer the Silver Edition, though I can see this version appealing to anyone who loves an extroverted watch. Overall, the watch is a great fusion of the Heuer Montreal and Carrera 2447S, combining the colours of the Montreal with the classic style of the Carrera. The Heuer Montreal (left) and the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition TAG Heuer did a good job of translating the key elements of the Montreal into the Carrera, such as the yellow accents on the minute count...
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Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”
Longines is continuing its streak of affordable and handsome remakes of vintage watches, with the last big hit being the Heritage Classic “sector” dial, with the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”. Modelled on a 1940s chronograph powered by the cal. 13ZN, regarded by collectors as the brand’s best chronograph movement, the remake gets its nickname from the stylish black-and-white dial. Initial thoughts There’s almost nothing to criticise in the new chronograph. Aesthetically, it is spot on. The design is faithful to the original, smartly doing away with the much-derided extras of the date and “automatic” often found in remakes. It’s a moderate size, albeit a bit thick. The movement is modular, rather integrated. But it only costs US$3,000, which is excellent value for money. More generally speaking – and this is criticism – Longines has rolled out several well-executed remakes in recent years, notching hit after hit. Paradoxically the success has made the Heritage remakes a little less appealing, just because there are so many of them – and most of them are pretty good. When the original Legend Diver was introduced in 2007, it was special, because the only affordable, good-looking remake. That said, it doesn’t take away anything from the watch itself; the new chronograph really is a compelling buy. Two-tone and tachymetre The Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” manages to capture most of the elements of the original. The dial is in silver...
Quill & Pad
4 Impressive Bracelet Watches In 2020 From Breguet, Bulgari, Hublot, And Breitling
Watch bracelets are often as underrated as housekeeping in a good hotel: they are commonly taken for granted. Collectors usually focus on the shape of the case and look of the dial first, with the movement coming in a close second. Here Martin Green takes a closer look at four new watches of 2020 whose full-metal bracelets significantly change the look of them.
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Rémy Cools Introduces the Tourbillon Souscription
A French watchmaker who is just 23 years old, Rémy Cools has just revealed the finished prototype of his debut watch, the Tourbillon Souscription. Mr Cools’ creation is a large watch with no visible crown, giving it a contemporary silhouette, but the look is still heavily classical in style, with the movement and dial strongly influenced by 19th century watchmaking, especially the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet and Jacques Frédéric Houriet according to Mr Cools. Initial thoughts I met Mr Cools at Baselworld 2019 and got to examine the unfinished prototype. It was complete and working, but had not yet been decorated. The prototype was an extremely striking watch, with a strong pocket watch aesthetic but still unique. While clearly modelled on the works of Breguet, it manages to avoid looking like a Breguet. Now that the watch is finished, it is no doubt more impressive; Mr Cools’ photos of the movement and its parts reveal an impressively high level of decoration. Two things go against the watch. One is the pair of crowns on the case back. They are easy enough to use, but feel unnecessarily complicated. The crowns, however, are probably something you get used to and forget about afterwards. The second drawback is the massive height of the watch, which is only 40 mm wide. It stands 15 mm high – including 7 mm of domed sapphire crystal – which gives it a really tall profile. And the thickness is accentuated by the relatively small diameter. That said, the height is ...
Revolution
EXCLUSIVE – Unique Platinum Rolex Daytona at Sotheby’s
Sotheby’s is set to sell a unique platinum Perpetual Daytona with never-before-seen lapis dial as the star lot in its July Hong Kong sale.
SJX Watches
Petermann Bédat Introduces the 1967 Deadbeat Seconds
First revealed a year ago as a prototype with a dial that was a work in progress, the Petermann Bédat 1967 wristwatch with an unusual deadbeat seconds mechanism has just been launched in its final form. Mechanically identical to the prototype – it’s equipped a secondary escapement for the jumping seconds – the refined 1967 now has a partially-open dial that shows off the finely-finished keyless works. Initial thoughts The prototype 1967 deadbeat seconds was let down by an uninspiring faux-classical dial, which was a shame, because the movement was executed to an impressively high level. Fortunately, Messrs Petermann and Bedat embarked on a total redesign of the dial. Independent watchmakers don’t often make drastic changes to designs in response to criticism, but the two did so, and the result is a success. The new 1967 is a handsome watch that manages to look modern while evoking classical dial design. In fact, the new dial is essentially a “sector” dial with a sapphire chapter ring, a novel combination that has not been done before. And it is matched with Petermann Bédat’s take on classical lance-shaped hands, which complete the contemporary feel. The new 1967 in rose gold. Photo – Petermann Bédat Dial aside, the rest of the watch is largely identical to the prototype. The movement was already excellent and will be almost unchanged in the production versions, although Mr Petermann says that the engraved lettering on the three-quarter plate will be im...
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Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 for the New Manufacture
Patek Philippe’s 1,600 employees in Geneva began migrating to its expansive new headquarters last year, and now the move is almost complete. To commemorate the completion of the new manufacture, Patek Philippe has announced its very first new launch for 2020: the Calatrava ref. 6007A-001 “New Manufacture 2019”. A limited edition of 1,000 watches, the ref. 6007A has a steel case and a grey-blue dial finished with a variety of textures, including a “carbon” pattern on its centre. Initial thoughts The new ref. 6007A confirms the chatter that Patek Philippe is in the midst of evolving the Calatrava line by injecting more contemporary flair into its aesthetics, which began with last year’s quirky ref. 5212A Weekly Calendar. Though the new ref. 6007A is a very different watch – in fact, its styling brings to mind the unique ref. 5208T “Only Watch” – it too feels like a more casual take on the classic Patek Philippe gentleman’s watch. The case is steel and relatively large at 40 mm, while the dial has a sporty, instrument-like look (which can be explained by its inspiration, the speedometer-inspired ref. 6006G). Notably, the dial has a stamped guilloche centre, which is an unusual feature for a Calatrava. And it also features applied Arabic numerals in white gold, a luxe detail for a simple watch. It will doubtlessly be a lightweight, thin watch that is easy and comfortable to wear, especially since the steel case is more hardwearing than the usual 18k go...
Revolution
Introducing the Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Blue
The Bell & Ross BR 05 gets new transparent sapphire dial with the BR 05 Skeleton Blue with a clear view of the mechanical movement that drives it
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New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Blue
The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton is now extended with a charming blue tinted sapphire dial allowing a peek-a-boo of the skeletonized movement.
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Hands-On: Santos de Cartier Chronograph XL
Cartier gave the Santos a thorough overhaul two years ago, revamping the case design (and incorporating a practical, easy-to-adjust bracelet) and equipping the line with an in-house movement, resulting in a successful new look for a watch first designed in 1904. That was followed by the introduction of the Santos de Cartier Chronograph XL last year, which boasts a smartly-designed case and dial, as well as an in-house movement. Initial thoughts The new Santos chronograph is one of the best value proposition amongst sporty chronographs in its price range; the base model in steel starts just under US$9,000. It combines a sharply-finished case with a solidly-constructed in-house movement, along with the historical lineage of the Santos design. Beyond that, the Santos chronograph also appeals for the thoughtful design, like the subtly-positioned chronograph button at nine o’clock. But it is a little large at over 43 mm in diameter, and feels chunky, though not as much as its predecessor. Inevitably, the Santos chronograph, regardless of design, will lose some of the elegance possessed by the time-only Santos. Variants of the Santos chronograph. Photo – Cartier Of the variants available, the two-tone model in steel and yellow gold feels the most complete. It’s a little 1980s in style, but in a good way, and the distinctive Santos bracelet is a must have (and it’s also delivered with an additional rubber strap moulded to resemble the metal links). But the downside is t...
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Breguet Introduces the Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia
One of the grandest and oldest watchmakers in the world, Breguet was founded in 1775 and usually sticks to watches very much rooted in tradition. Even its high jewellery timepieces are elaborate and lavish, but still old school. The new Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia, however, is a strikingly lively, ocean-inspired jewellery watch. Named after the Posidonia oceanica, a seagrass found the Mediterranean sometimes known as Neptune grass, the new Marine has an iridescent mother-of-pearl dial invisibly set with 85 gemstones to form an elegant floating-seagrass motif surrounded by baguette-cut gemstones. It’s very different from the usual Breguet fare – in a good way – especially in the coloured gemstone versions. The Poseidonia is available four variations, each distinguished by the combination of gemstones. While the diamond version is set only with diamonds, the emerald, ruby, and sapphire models are each set with a variety of gems – amethysts and tsavorites on the sapphire version for instance – to create a rainbow-hued decor. The ruby And emerald Initial thoughts Breguet has a penchant for making high-jewellery timepieces inspired by nature. Thematically, the Poseidonia is no different, but it is far, far more spectacular in visual effect. Going by the photos, the watch will no doubt be dazzling and unapologetically luxe – and a world away from the restrained elegance of the Marine for men. Watches that have been liberally set with gems tend to b...
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Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Blue
Unveiled just last year, the Bell & Ross BR 05 was yet another luxury-sports watch with an integrated bracelets, but priced more affordably than the average. The flagship model of the line up was the BR 05 Skeleton, an urban and contemporary open-worked watch that’s just been given a new look. The BR 05 Skeleton Blue is essentially the same as last year’s model, but facelifted with a blue-tinted sapphire dial that gives it a punchier look. Initial thoughts The BR 05 is one of my favourites from Bell & Ross. The design blends the key elements of the brand’s flagship military-aviation watches like the BR 01 and BR 03, and incorporates them into a case that is modern and sharp, giving it arguably greater mainstream appeal than the military-inspired pilot’s watches. While the BR 01 and BR 03 are undoubtedly icons, their tool-like appearance and large case – 46 mm and 42 mm respectively – definitely dissuade some. On the other hand, the BR 05 is much more manageable on the wrist at 40 mm wide and 10.4 mm in height. Though it’s smaller than the BR 01 and BR 03, the case is architectural in form, and features myriad textures – polished and satin-brushed surfaces, often separated by polished bevels. The result is a smallish but appealing case that manages to look three-dimensional. I feel that the BR 05 Skeleton works better as a whole, compared to its solid-dial counterparts. The open-worked movement enhances the visual depth of the watch. While the blue-tinte...
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Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition
When Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 last year, the best looking of the collection were the two watches with smoked enamel dials, which were the minute repeater and flying tourbillon. The base models, on the other hand, were plain and looked a bit flat. But as proof that dial colours and shading are as important as design, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition is the three-hand base model, but with a smoked blue enamel dial – and it is a good looking watch, with the downside of a substantial price premium for the enamel dial. Launched in November 2019 to mark the 10th anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s sponsorship of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow, the parent organisation of the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi edition was a limited edition of 99 pieces. And it’s the only base-model Code 11.59 with an enamel (or smoked-finish) dial to date, though that might change in the future. Initial thoughts The Bolshoi edition is surprisingly attractive, even though only a single element has changed. Though it keeps the design exactly the same, the Bolshoi edition fixes the bland looks of the original simply but effectively with a fired enamel dial. While the smoked finish is not new – H. Moser & Cie. does it all the time and now MB&F; does too – the dial of the Bolshoi edition is fired enamel, which is doubtlessly difficult to produce and tangibly impressive. Because everything else remains the same as the standard edition, the Bolshoi edition also...
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: Remembering the OG Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K
Editor’s note: The Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ feels like it’s been around forever. It probably has claims, as much as practically any other modern watch, and certainly on any other diver, on being something of a modern icon with its striking ‘ventral pleats’ horizontally striping the dial, and its top to bottom blue graduation designed to emulate … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Remembering the OG Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Grand Seiko Introduces the Paris Vendôme Limited Edition
To mark the recent opening of its first store in continental Europe – and its biggest boutique in the world – Grand Seiko has unveiled the Paris Vendôme Limited Edition, either in platinum (SBGK011) or rose gold (SBGK013). With a dial motif inspired by the streets of Paris, the limited edition is powered by the 9S63 movement. Located at the corner of the posh Place Vendôme famous for being home to jewellers and the Hôtel Ritz, the new Grand Seiko boutique is the brand’s largest store ever, with a floor area of over 190 square metres (or some 2000 square feet) spread over two floors. Distinctly Japanese in style and materials – the floors are tatami and the screens, bamboo – the is the work of Kengo Kuma, one of Japan’s leading contemporary architects. The Grand Seiko Boutique Paris Vendôme Grand Seiko’s location on the square with the entrance to the store at the lower right corner of the photo, adjacent to the white awning Initial thoughts If the limited editions look familiar, it’s for good reason – they are based on the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection introduced last year, featuring the same case, movement, and dial layout. The refined dimensions of the Elegance Collection immediately made it one of my favourites of the Grand Seiko collection. Although Grand Seiko watches are well designed and equipped with great movements, the cases tend to wear large and thick, something the Elegance Collection managed to avoid. The 9S63 as seen in a ...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Two precious metal Grand Seiko First references to celebrate the 60th anniversary
Grand Seiko are marking the 60th anniversary of their first watch with a small collection of dress watches that are based on the first ever watches to be made with Grand Seiko on the dial. These classically styled time-only dress watches set the foundation for what Grand Seiko are becoming known for today; a knack … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Two precious metal Grand Seiko First references to celebrate the 60th anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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