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Stella Dial Rolex

1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.

Rune Bakkendorff Introduces the Moonwork Pendulum Clock SJX Watches
Rado xically it Jul 15, 2022

Rune Bakkendorff Introduces the Moonwork Pendulum Clock

The result of a collaboration between a Danish clockmaker and design studio , the Moonwork is a tall, sculptural clock that stands almost two meters high. It’s an old-school pendulum clock in function but entirely contemporary in expression, from the thin, minimalist frame to the clever time display without hands. Danish clockmaker Rune Bakkendorff worked together with fellow Danes of design studio Ahm&Lund; to create the clock, which made its debut late last year at the Cabinetmakers Autumn Exhibit 2021, a Scandinavian furniture fair that took place in Copenhagen. The Moonwork at the furniture exhibition. Photo – Scandinaviandesign.com Initial thoughts A thoughtfully designed object, the Moonwork is attractive on several levels. At first glance, it is slender, simplistic, and hardly resembling a clock save for the pendulum. But paradoxically it is a clock, making the featureless time display is immediately intriguing. It is a clock, but not quite. The Moonwork does away with the conventional telling of the time and instead displays the lunar cycle – the moon phase is projected onto the white porcelain dome that forms the dial. An impractical but beautiful solution, this makes the Moonwork more of a sculpture that indicates the passing of the time. Remove the white porcelain dome and the entirely mechanical workings of the clock are revealed, although moon phase projection relies hundreds of LED bulbs that are hidden behind a silver sphere that rotates slowly to ca...

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Jul 7, 2022

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium

A French watchmaking startup founded in 2017 that successfully reimagined several well-known vintage designs, Baltic has just unveiled highest-spec dive watch to date – and arguably its most contemporary design. While still clearly vintage-inspired in terms of aesthetics, the Aquascaphe Titanium does better than its predecessor in terms of materials, construction, as well as water resistance. The result is a more substantial watch that’s pricier but still value minded. The bezel insert is brushed ceramic with luminous markings Initial thoughts For a brand that’s heavily reliant on vintage watches for insrpaiton, the Aquascaphe Titanium is a welcome departure from its other offerings. Granted it still retains a retro feel, but does so with materials that are decidedly modern, namely ceramic and titanium. On the subject of materials, one aspect that distinguishes the new Aquascaphe is the highly-domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind PlexiGlas found on vintage watches. Rarely found in modern dive watches at this price, most of which utilise flat crystals, the domed crystal results in slight visual distortion of the dial’s edges, which might not help legibility but certainly adds to the vintage feel. Another key detail that contributes to the appealing vintage styling is the all-brushed finish on both the case and bezel, along with the tasteful typography, which speak to the brand’s attention to detail. At the same time, the design that combines smart details w...

Up Close: Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph SJX Watches
Montblanc 1858 Jun 21, 2022

Up Close: Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph

The latest offering in Montblanc’s high-end chronograph lineup is the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. In many ways it looks and feels like the Minerva chronographs that came before it. The case remains extra-large because of the pocket watch movement within and it still has a fluted bezel along with cathedral hands. But the Unveiled Secret is totally different from its predecessors, as its movement has been inverted in order to bring the most interesting bits to the front. That required some mechanical rearrangement to accomplish, but manages to realise the desire often expressed by collectors who want to wear a watch with the finely finished movement showcased on the dial. Initial thoughts Hand-wind chronographs have been a specialty of Montblanc, at least for its high-end models, since it acquired Minerva several years ago. Minerva came along with its stable of historical chronograph movements, all traditionally constructed in an elegant, delicate manner, albeit in a slightly anachronistic manner since the calibres mostly dated to the early-20th century. As a result, Montblanc can count several impressive chronographs in its collection, but the Unveiled Secret does it differently. Though the inversion trick has been done before by other hands, the Unveiled Secret is still a little more creative and a little more interesting. It relies on a simple trick: the hands are mounted on what is ordinarily the back of the movement, while the entire mo...

Grand Seiko celebrates the 44GS with a slimmed-down duo of SLGA013 and SLGH009 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko celebrates Mar 28, 2022

Grand Seiko celebrates the 44GS with a slimmed-down duo of SLGA013 and SLGH009

Never ones to shy away from a party, Grand Seiko release the SLGA013 and SLGH009. Celebrating the 55th anniversary of the 44GS, these Heritage collection pieces offer well-known GS movements, with improvements to their design, allowing for a better fit on-wrist. With stellar dials and Grand Seiko proprietary steel, neither of these 550-piece limited editions … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko celebrates the 44GS with a slimmed-down duo of SLGA013 and SLGH009 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Aqua Terra in Bright Colours SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 18, 2022

Omega Introduces the Aqua Terra in Bright Colours

Of Omega’s novelties for the year (which include a 6000 m dive watch and solid-gold Speedmaster Moonwatch) the Seamaster Aqua Terra is the most affordable while also offering the widest range in terms of style and size. The brand has just taken the covers off the latest Aqua Terra range made up of ten watches evenly divided into 34 mm and 38 mm cases, but all in vibrant, upbeat colours. The 34 mm model with a Lagoon Green dial Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic appeal, the latest Aqua Terras are a wonderful addition to the line up. They show that Omega has begun to loosen up in terms of dial colours and style, which will no doubt help widen its audience. Another point of appeal is the dial finish. While the colours are bright, they aren’t in-your-face thanks to a brushed finish. And the 34 mm model also sports more rounded forms for the hands and hour markers that give it a more elegant feel. Overall, it makes for a versatile watch that’s not too sporty. And it’s also good news Omega has done away with the linear motif inspired by the wood decks of a sailboat that was long synonymous with the Aqua Terra. The 34 mm quintet That said, the collection immediately call to mind the Oyster Perpetual from 2020 that was an instant hit thanks to its range of colourful, lacquered dials. That leaves the new Aqua Terra feeling like a trend follower rather than trendsetter. Only time will tell whether this approach is conducive to the positioning of the brand. (To be fair,...

Exhibition: ‘A Journey through the Poetry of Time’ with Van Cleef & Arpels SJX Watches
Feb 11, 2022

Exhibition: ‘A Journey through the Poetry of Time’ with Van Cleef & Arpels

Parisian jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;) is staging an expansive exhibition of its high jewellery and complicated watches in Singapore. Executed in the brand’s signature whimsical style that evokes a stylised, romantic Paris, A Journey through the Poetry of Time opens on February 12 and is open to the public for a week, but registration is required for entry. Best known for its inventive, quirky mechanics and elaborate ornamentation, VC&A; has pulled out all the stops of the exhibition. The event encompasses most the brand’s most lavish creations, ranging from its charming complicated watches to incredible high-jewellery sets. One of the exhibition’s central themes is the brand’s most famous complication, the bi-retrograde display that is made up of two lovers on a bridge, the Pont des Amoureux. Another section of the exhibition is dedicated to the brand’s astronomical complications, which includes the Lady Arpels Planétarium, a compact, 38 mm wristwatch that captures the motion of Mercury, Venus, the Earth, and the Moon on its three-dimensional dial. Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux – an elegant, effortless combination of high jewellery and inventive watchmaking Lady Arpels Planétarium – the time is indicated with a shooting star that travels around the dial At the same time, VC&A; is also showcasing its haute horlogerie infused with modern technology. One of the exhibits is a line up of the entire Lady Arpels Zodiaque Lumineux collection, each of which...

HYT Returns with the Hastroid SJX Watches
Montblanc Mr Cerrato has applied Feb 1, 2022

HYT Returns with the Hastroid

Having been the first – and still the only – watchmaker to use liquid to display the time, HYT went bust last year, having struggled for several years after its 2012 debut. But now the brand is making a comeback with Davide Cerrato at the helm. The inaugural watch of the reborn HYT is the Hastroid Green Nebula that is dressed in brand’s familiar livery of lime green and black. Best known for being the design chief at first Tudor and then Montblanc, Mr Cerrato has applied his brand of Italian aesthetics to HYT, preserving its signature style while streamlining and downsizing the watches. Still large, but slightly thinner and definitely sleeker, the Hastroid continues the familiar formula found on most previous HYT watches – hours are indicated by a retrograde fluid indicator within a glass tube, while two large bellows are responsible for pumping the fluid indicator back and forth. Initial thoughts I was sceptical when I first heard that HYT was back from the dead, but knowing that Mr Cerrato is leading the charge certainly increases the odds of success. He did a stellar job shaping the visual identities of both Tudor and Montblanc – both of which still have the same house style today – and has certainly refined the HYT wristwatch while retaining its familiar feel. The Having seen a resin mockup of the Hastroid, I can attest to the fact that the watch is more compact and slightly more wearable than a first-generation HYT. At the same time, Mr Cerrato has given...

Bulgari Debuts the Smallest Movement of 21st Century SJX Watches
Bulgari Debuts Jan 31, 2022

Bulgari Debuts the Smallest Movement of 21st Century

Bulgari is starting the year big with something impressively tiny – the hand-wind BVL 100 Piccolissimo that’s the smallest mechanical movement of the 21st century at just 12.3 mm wide and 2.5 mm tall. The minuscule movement makes it debut in the latest version of Bulgari’s iconic snake-bangle wristwatch – it is one o the most iconic jewellery watches of all time in fact – the Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery Secret Watch. While many versions of the Serpenti bracelet have been equipped with quartz movements in recent years, the BVL 100 means the watch within the snake’s head is once again mechanical, just like the originals of the 1950s. The tiny barrel bridge of the BVL 100 Initial thoughts While the Serpenti Misteriosi is a high-jewellery watch that has little practical appeal for most watch collectors, it’s difficult to easy to appreciate watch for its combination of design, craft, and of course the technical achievement of the BVL100. Amusingly enough, the Serpenti Misteriosi is, technically speaking, an integrated-bracelet watch with a reversible dial – two features highly coveted in the watch world – though the lavish jewels and lacquer disguises most of its horological qualities, which also illustrates the power of the iconic design. The forked tongue is a trigger to open the snake’s head, revealing the time below But over-the-top style is only useful for a specific audience – and specific occasions – so for the rest of us, there’s the ...

Up Close: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Having Jan 23, 2022

Up Close: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor

Having enjoyed modest success with its affordable(ish) Tonda GT sports watch launched two years ago, Parmigiani tweaked the concept and debuted a more refined – and pricier – sports watch last year, the Tonda PF. The line up includes the base-model Micro-Rotor in steel reviewed here, along with a chronograph and annual calendar. The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor in steel Taking generous inspiration from the brand’s more classical timepieces, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a luxury-sports watch with an integrated bracelet. While the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor doesn’t deviate much from the familiar formula for a luxury-sports watch, it does excel in a few ways, helping it stand out from the competition, most notably with its minimalist dial and ultra-thin automatic movement that are both executed to a high level. And its bigger brother, the Tonda PF Chronograph in pink gold Initial thoughts The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is surprisingly thin, making it seem slightly wider than its 40 mm diameter. But it sits flat and elegant, with the lines of the case flowing into the bracelet, giving it a sleek look on the wrist. Despite its delicate looks, the Micro-Rotor (along with the rest of the Tonda PF range) is water resistant to a respectable 100 m. Unlike many of Parmigiani’s recent models (including its more affordable sports watch, the Tonda GT), the Tonda PF is minimalist in terms of styling. And the Micro-Rotor, being the simplest watch in the collection, is the most pared back. Its di...

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2481 Jan 21, 2022

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022)

A distinctive gentleman whose trademark outfit always called for multiple scarves looped around his neck, Giovanni Zavota was one of the old-school Italian dealers who shaped vintage watch collecting of the late 20th century, having sold some of the most important wristwatches – amongst them a steel ref. 1518 and the platinum ref. 2499. He passed away on 15 January, aged 69. I would see him each time I went to Geneva for the auctions and he was clearly an original character. He was most comfortable conversing in Italian, which I speak none of, so we only spoke briefly a few times. But one occasion that stands out in my memory is when I encountered him in Italy and he was wearing a Patek Philippe ref. 2481 with a cloisonné dial – and a matching bracelet – on one wrist, and on the other he had on a crisp and enormous Longines Lindbergh. Two watches of different style and disparate value, yet each interesting and important in its own way – a sure sign the man had good taste and understood historical significance. Giovanni Zavota. Photo – Auro Montanari A testament to his place in the world of vintage watches – specifically the pre-internet world – was the turnout at his funeral, which took place on January 18 in Collecchio, a small town just south of Parma where he had spent his summers as a boy. Almost a hundred people turned up, including family and old friends, but also a large contingent that exemplified the Italian-centric, late-20th century world of vinta...

WHO TO FOLLOW: See what happens when music and watches collide with @vinylsanddials Time+Tide
Jan 21, 2022

WHO TO FOLLOW: See what happens when music and watches collide with @vinylsanddials

It’s been nearly a decade since this bug of collecting watches bit me. In that time, I wish I could tell you that was the only hobby slowly assaulting my wallet. However, photography also became another passion of mine (had to kick Lego off the bus to make room). Interestingly, carrying multiple hobbies and interests … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: See what happens when music and watches collide with @vinylsanddials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01 SJX Watches
Breguet numerals so I was Jan 20, 2022

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01

A French micro-brand that specialises in watches with retro style, Baltic unveiled its smallest – and perhaps most classical – offering in October last year, the Micro-Rotor MR01. Coming in at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is no doubt a surprising size for a modern watch. Despite its compact size, the MR01 manages to squeeze in a lot relative to the price. Most obvious is a tasteful design that brings to mind gentlemen’s watches from the 1930s – the Calatrava ref. 96 easily comes to mind. But equally interesting is the slim automatic movement with a micro-rotor that is responsible for the elegant proportions (and affordability). Its combination of aesthetics and price meant the initial run of 200 pieces in each colour – “salmon”, blue, and a no-nonsense silver – quickly sold out. Of the three, the “salmon” dial immediately stands out, just because it’s the flavour of the dial for vintage-inspired dress watches. But when the opportunity for review came along, I opted for the silver dial, as I found the clean palette attractive. As pleasing as the MR01 seemed in photos, there were a few details I wasn’t convinced by, such as the wide bezel and applied Breguet numerals, so I was looking forward to wearing one for a few days. The all-silver is a good look and one often found on more expensive Calatrava-inspired watches such as the Naoya Hida NH Type 1B Initial thoughts After handling the MR01 for the first time, it seemed to be a thoughtful, comple...

Hublot Introduces the Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Dec 8, 2021

Hublot Introduces the Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow

Earlier this year Hublot dropped the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami with its spinning, smiling flower. But the watch was surprisingly all-black – even set with black diamonds – seemingly antithetical to the artist’s splashy, polychromatic style. Now the watchmaker has taken the idea to its logical conclusion (or perhaps there will be more) with the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow. It’s essentially the same watch but rendered in full colour and clear sapphire, an upbeat – and pricey – timepiece that exemplifies the quintessential aesthetic of both Hublot and Murakami. Initial thoughts The all-black Murakami edition was a stellar success – it sold out within a day – and Hublot already had plans at the time for a follow up; in fact, its spokesperson said so during the launch of the original version). Repetition isn’t always exciting for fortunately the new edition is certainly perfectly executed for what it is, while also being a far smaller run. Most importantly, it looks different enough – the chromatic opposite in fact – to make it compelling even for someone who owns the first version. The new look is even more striking, since the transparent case creates an open aesthetic that allows the coloured stones to shine – a case in another material would arguably have diminished the impact of the rainbow gemstones. Notably, the latest version is also true to the both the artist and brand. While a sapphire case isn’t novel, it’s...

Baltic Introduces the Titanium Collection for Perpétuel SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Dec 1, 2021

Baltic Introduces the Titanium Collection for Perpétuel

Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel opened last year with its first limited edition, a pair of watches by Baltic. Now the French brand is once again creating a limited-edition series of watches for Perpétuel, the UAE 50th Anniversary Titanium Collection. The three-piece limited edition is marks the first time that Baltic is using titanium for its cases, which have all been steel to date. And as is expected, the maker of affordable, vintage-inspired watches has customised the edition for Perpétuel’s home region, with all three watches having Eastern-Arabic numerals on the dials (as well as the bezel in the case of the GMT). Initial thoughts Baltic’s standard models are appealing because they have a simple, vintage-inspired style that’s nothing too fancy but still attractive, plus they are strongly affordable. The tweaks made to the designs for the Perpetual editions are modest but boost the charm of the watches. I especially like the HMS and Chronograph.  While the sector-ish dial is a familiar vintage look, the two-tone finish is fairly novel and also striking. And the graceful calligraphy of the Eastern-Arabic numerals complement the design and colours well. The Eastern-Arabic numerals on the GMT bezel don’t work as well for me. One reason is stylistic – the simple forms of the hour markers don’t match the elegant Arabic script. And the other is functional since I am unfamiliar with the script so the bezel is difficult to read, which won’t be a problem for an...

Up Close: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection SBGH287 “Snow on Blue Lake” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection SBGH287 “Snow Nov 26, 2021

Up Close: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection SBGH287 “Snow on Blue Lake”

For the third year running Grand Seiko’s distributor in Southeast Asia gets a limited edition exclusively available in the markets it represents, namely Brunei, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, and Singapore. Following the large and sporty “Champagne Diamond” of 2020, this year’s edition is just right in terms of size, style and function. The Heritage Collection SBGH287 “Snow on Blue Lake” is classic Grand Seiko – it’s an automatic with time and date – in a compact, 40 mm package that’s quintessential Grand Seiko in style. But its best feature – as is often the case with Grand Seiko limited editions – is the textured dial that’s finely grained and rendered in pale blue, a colour meant to evoke fresh snow as it reflects the colour of the blue sky. Initial thoughts Going by its previous editions, it is clear that Grand Seiko’s representative in the Southeast Asia, Thong Sia Group, has a good eye. With the brand already offering a seemingly endless stream of iterations in familiar colours and textures, it is surely challenging to conceive of something that combines existing elements while still being unusual and tasteful, but Thong Sia and Grand Seiko aced it. With its light blue palette, the dial of the SBGH287 calls to mind past models like the SBGA407 “Blue Snowflake” and SBGY007 “Omiwatari”, but its texture is different from either of the two. The finish is granular and slightly sparkly, living up to its snowy nickname. Dial aside, the ...

Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3448 Nov 20, 2021

Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong

Independent watchmaking may be the flavour du jour at auctions now, but there are still vintage watches worth paying attention to. Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale includes three of them, including an impressively crisp Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” (above) as well as the unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in platinum with sapphire hour markers – both of which will be million-dollar watches in US dollar terms (or ten-million dollars in Hong Kong currency). The last watch of the trio, a 1930s Tank Cintree in white gold, is the most elegant. And its seemingly new condition merits reflection: what is a skilfully and sympathetically restored watch worth? The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 819 – Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 “JPS” With the market for vintage sports watches having plateaued since it peaked in 2018 and 2019, prices have mostly softened across the board. That said, a handful of models still achieve impressive prices, most notably the Rolex Daytona “John Player Special”, or “JPS” for short. That’s because the solid-gold, manual-wind Daytona is an intrinsically rare watch – it is estimated that a few hundred exist as opposed to thousands in steel – and even less common with the “JPS” dial. Perhaps the most striking version of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the “JPS” nickna...

INTRODUCING: The more refined and compact Grand Seiko SBGA461 & SBGA463 divers Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGA461 & SBGA463 divers Nov 16, 2021

INTRODUCING: The more refined and compact Grand Seiko SBGA461 & SBGA463 divers

Though Grand Seiko is typically known for their dressier watches and mesmerising dials, you’d better believe a company with “Seiko” in its name knows a thing or two about making tool watches. With the latest iterations of their famed Spring Drive watches, the Grand Seiko SBGA461 and SBGA463 show what it really means to have … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The more refined and compact Grand Seiko SBGA461 & SBGA463 divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Unveils the Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 SJX Watches
Breguet Unveils Nov 16, 2021

Breguet Unveils the Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365

Breguet is marking its invention of the tourbillon – way back in 1801, or 220 years ago – with an elegantly simple variant of its extra-thin tourbillon. The Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 is classically Breguet in style, with a handful of aesthetic flourishes to mark it out as an anniversary edition. And it is truly a limited edition of only 35 watches, which is also the number of tourbillon pocket watches Abraham-Louis Breguet made in his lifetime. Initial thoughts Breguet’s Tourbillon Extra Plat is already impressively executed for a slim, simple watch, especially with a skeleton movement. The cal. 581 inside is typical of modern-day Breguet movements – incorporating technology in the form of a silicon hairspring and escapement, while boasting a high level of hand finishing. Fortunately, the anniversary edition doesn’t try to do too much differently. In fact, it is almost indistinguishable from the standard version. But that simplicity is appealing because it captures the spirit of Breguet, especially in its details like the off-centre dial and spherical, gold minute markers. Perhaps the only downside of the watch is its thinness. The case is so slim that its relatively wide diameter gives it disc-like proportions on the wrist, especially with its narrow, long lugs. A subtle tribute Just two small details on the dial mark it out as the anniversary edition. One is engraved just above the tourbillon aperture, the number of the patent awarded to...

Franc Vila Returns with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero SJX Watches
Nov 11, 2021

Franc Vila Returns with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

A Spanish watch designer who founded one of the hot independent brands during the lead up to the last financial crisis, Franc Vila has made a quiet return with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. Turning away from the excessive style that characterised his original watches, Mr Vila now relies on the movement construction to create a distinctive aesthetic. Produced by an unnamed independent watchmaker, the FVF1 movement is open-worked to give it an airy feel. And it features a novel “piston” mechanism for the roller indicator for the day. Initial thoughts When I first encountered the FVF1 C2, it was interesting both from a visual and technical perspective. But I was sceptical as the brand has baggage. Mr Vila’s original brand went under after the finial crisis of 2007-2008. And while it was successful before it was not – at its peak the brand perhaps 500 watches a year – that brand’s watches were oddly styled, with a dial that resembled a monkey’s head (or a cobra according to the brand itself). But a decade has passed and Mr Vila’s latest creation is appealing. The styling found in his original watches has been dialled back, which is a good thing. The movement is open-worked and unusually constructed, giving it a distinctive look despite the simple outline of the case. At the same time, it has a novel mechanical function with the “piston” adjuster for the day indicator. And it is also finished attractively to a level similar to that of the Poincon de G...

Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms which Oct 19, 2021

Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver

Founded by Romanian native Andy Bica-Popi but based in Switzerland, Peren styles itself as a Transylvanian watch brand. The micro-brand’s offerings are characterised by a clean, functional aesthetic, a style encapsulated by the Nera Rogue. Peren’s first dive watch is loosely inspired by the Tornek-Rayville TR-900, a rare and obscure dive watch that’s actually a rebadged Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which the Swiss watchmaker made for its American agent who in turn supplied them to the US Navy in the 1960s. Utilitarian and cleanly styled, the Nera Rogue takes after the TR-900, which is reflected in the hour markers and bezel, but is evidently not a vintage remake. And in a nod to today’s fashionable colour, the Nera Rogue has dark-green dial. Initial thoughts Granted, the population of micro-brands is ever increasing, especially those making dive watches, but a handful are both interesting and affordable enough to be worth a second look. Since micro-brands typically rely on the same few outsourced movements (often Sellita or Miyota), it falls to design to distinguish one from another. And Peren manages to set itself apart – albeit only on the second try. The Nera Rogue is actually Peren’s second go at the design. What’s really new on the Nera Rogue is actually its bezel – which is the primary element inspired by the TR-900 – while the rest of the watch is actually identical to a past model known as the Nera that was equipped with a smooth, unmarked bezel, m...

Quick Take: Longines Legend Diver Watch in Gradient Blue and Brown SJX Watches
Longines Legend Diver Watch Oct 15, 2021

Quick Take: Longines Legend Diver Watch in Gradient Blue and Brown

Introduced in 2007 as Longines’ first remake of a vintage sports watch, the original Legend Diver was one of the earliest entries into the vintage-reissue segment. And it was a faithful recreation that managed to channel the look and feel of the vintage-original ref. 7042, though Longines subsequently added a date display to the model. In recent years, however, Longines begun to inject contemporary style into its remakes, including the Legend Diver, with last year’s 42 mm model in bronze with a striking, green fumé dial being a prime example. This year saw a continuation of the trend with a pair of new dials – in either blue or brown with a smoked finish – for the full-sized Legend Diver Watch in steel. Initial thoughts My first impression of the duo was simple: they are appealing in both design and colour. The design is clearly vintage; the remake stays true to the original. Its best feature is the inner rotating bezel adjusted via a second crown, which immediately sets it apart from typical dive watches that usually have a bulky external bezel. But important is the colour, which unlike the design it is a modern addition. Though fashionable today, gradient or dégradé dials are were actually a thing in the 1970s, though never found on the vintage original. The smoked dials lends the watch a youthful and contemporary feel. The blue is the most striking, though I personally prefer the warm and nostalgic brown dial that evokes a “tropical” dial. While t...

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph SJX Watches
Zenith unveiled Sep 30, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph

Seiko’s current offerings are wide-ranging in both style and price, but its mechanical chronographs aren’t particularly outstanding – a surprise given the Japanese watchmaker’s historical prominence with the complication. Seiko, after all, was one of the first brands to debut an automatic chronograph in 1969, the same year Zenith unveiled the El Primero. Closing the gap is the latest launch from Seiko, the Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph (refs. SRQ035 and SRQ037), a blend of two historically-significant Seiko chronographs. The grey-dial automatic chronograph is based on Seiko’s 1964 chronograph wristwatch, while the white-dial version is modelled on the 1964 stopwatch Design-wise, it is modelled on the timepieces Seiko conceived for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics where the brand was the official timekeeper, namely a hand-wind chronograph wristwatch and a stopwatch. But the new Prospex chronograph is a self-winding chronograph with a full-spec movement. So technically, it takes its cues from the the Speedtimer ref. 6139 of 1969. Like the ref. 6139, the new chronograph is equipped with an automatic movement incorporated both a column wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph. Initial thoughts Seiko has launched countless vintage-inspired models in recent years, with diver’s watches forming the bulk of the remakes, which makes the new chronographs unusual, simple because they are chronographs. At the same time, they are aesthetically unusual since the di...

Exhibition: Exquisite Pocket Watches in Singapore SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet grand complication Sep 16, 2021

Exhibition: Exquisite Pocket Watches in Singapore

A vintage watch dealer based in Singapore, 2ToneVintage is staging an exhibition that goes down a road less travelled in modern watch collecting – vintage pocket watches instead of the usual fare of wristwatches. The exhibition is open to the public from now till September 30, 2021, but registration is required due to venue capacity limits. Titled The Beginning, the show is made up of several dozen impressive specimens that represent the diversity of pocket watches, ranging from an Ilbery enamel for the Chinese market to a one-off Audemars Piguet grand complication to a Patek Philippe world time with a cloisonné dial. A timeline on the walls of the exhibition charts the development of watchmaking Most of the watches on show belong to Ali Nael, an oil trader who switched careers to found 2ToneVintage. Consequently, a good portion of the exhibition reflects his taste in timepieces – many of the timepieces are mid 20th century watches with elegant two-tone dials in champagne or pink gold. Examples from the early- to mid-20th century dominate the exhibition, with Patek Philippe being the most numerous. The watches largely fall into two categories: simple, time-only watches with delicate details or enamelling, and the highly complicated. Time-only The time-only examples include the Patek Philippe ref. 650 “Flying Saucer” – named after its wide, flat bezel – from 1937 that has a handsome. two-tone contrasting dial. And standing out against the classical style of ...

Louis Erard Introduces the Regulator in Lapis, Malachite, and Aventurine SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Aug 31, 2021

Louis Erard Introduces the Regulator in Lapis, Malachite, and Aventurine

Louis Erard has embarked on a journey into the realm of special dials lately, starting with grand feu enamel and followed by hand-made guilloche – done affordably as is typical of the brand. And now Louis Erard is continuing apace with Excellence Régulateur featuring dials in lapis lazuli, malachite, or aventurine glass. But this time, however, the special dials are different. Louis Erard has opted for its signature regulator-style display, instead of the time-only format used on earlier editions, adding more character to the exotic-material dials.  Initial thoughts Regulators have long been a specialty of Louis Erard, and it’s a complication that’s uncommon this price point, especially a regulator with in-line hours, minutes, and seconds. The regulator watch has been the base for several interesting limited editions, especially the collabs with Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter. Despite not being a collab with a notable personality, the latest regularly is equally interesting, because the dial materials are typically found in watches at a much higher price point. Recent examples including the platinum Omega Seamaster 300 or even the multi-million dollar, piece unique Rolex Daytona in platinum. In contrast, the new regulator is relatively affordable at just under US$3,200. At the same time, the regulator also costs less than the earlier special editions, namely the models with guilloche or enamel dials, making it an even better value proposition. Tho...

IN-DEPTH: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Blue Ceramic shows the evolution of the sports watch Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Blue Aug 19, 2021

IN-DEPTH: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Blue Ceramic shows the evolution of the sports watch

The domination of blue-dialled steel sports watches has been slowly diminishing in the public eye lately, as waves of innovation are beginning to overtake the appeal of what’s familiar. Bronze cases, green dials - these trends aren’t just popular because they look fantastic, but because they’re refreshing. The Hublot Big Bang Integral in deep blue … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Blue Ceramic shows the evolution of the sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Blue Ceramic shows the potential future of sports watches Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Blue Aug 17, 2021

VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Blue Ceramic shows the potential future of sports watches

Hublot are a brand who love to outdo themselves, as well as outdoing everyone else. With the craze for blue-dialled steel sports watches fading slightly, there’s a chance to pounce on forging the new watch trends for decades to come, and the Big Bang Integral in blue ceramic is a real marker of what the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Blue Ceramic shows the potential future of sports watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m SJX Watches
Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 Aug 16, 2021

Up Close: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m

Historically best known for ultra-advanced quartz and solar-powered watches – including the most accurate watch ever – Citizen has been on a tear recently with good, old-fashioned mechanical watches. The Japanese watchmaker started the year the high-end with The Citizen Caliber 0200, and then moved onto something more accessible but still sporting an integrated bracelet. More recently it took the covers off the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m ref. NB6004-08E. Oversized and aggressively styled, the new Promaster is eminently affordable – retail is about US$1,000 – but kitted out with impressive features, including a hardened case as well as a magnetism-resistant in-house movement, which makes it excellent value. (And it has a cool, glow-in-the-dark buckle.) Initial thoughts In my early days as a watch enthusiast, I had a soft spot for Seiko dive watches, because they were diverse in style and budget friendly. Citizen, on the other hand, didn’t feature as much, because it only offered one or two notable mechanical dive watches as the company largely focused on solar-powered watches (and still does). But Citizen is expanding its repertoire at a measured pace, but making tremendous progress. The Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m is a single model, but offered in several variants (though availability of each version varies throughout the world). Citizen lent me the base model – brushed titanium with a black dial – for a few days. On paper, the watch is high s...