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The Least Expensive Panerai Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Jan 8, 2025

The Least Expensive Panerai Watches

Panerai might be the most in-your-face example of the quintessential Tool Watch That Made Good as a Luxury Item. Unlike many other contenders for that title, a Panerai watch today looks essentially the same as it did back in the 1940s, when Italian navy frogmen wore them into underwater combat. Few concessions have been made to modern tastes and trends: the luminous material on the dials is no longer radioactive (inarguably a positive change), Rolex no longer makes the cases, and you no longer have to be a naval commando to own one, but otherwise the relatively few models that make up the Panerai family have stubbornly adhered to their military-issue origins. It is this adherence that makes Panerai, for many, an all-or-nothing proposition — either you’re in the brand’s worldwide, rabid coterie of fans and collectors, proudly self-dubbed the Paneristi, or you roll your eyes at the notion of ever owning one: they’re too big, too flashy, too clunky, too Stallone.  This article, the latest in our series of Price of Admission guides, is aimed at those aspiring to join the former group — in other words, those wishing to pull the trigger on their first Panerai but possibly intimidated by the breadth of choices — and, of course, by the ticket price for entry to that first tier of Paneristi-land. Without further ado, let’s find the most affordable Panerai watches in each of the current product families. RADIOMIR The Radiomir, first conceived in 1935 but tracing its m...

Hands-on – Impressions about the Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Jan 6, 2025

Hands-on – Impressions about the Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified

About a month ago, out of the blue, Omega released a new, rather polarizing and unique-looking version of its emblematic chronograph, the Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified. Well, it wasn’t really out of the blue, but we’ll come back on that in a few. Colourful, tool-oriented and with a dial full of references to the world of […]

The Seiko Power Design Project Returns in 2025 SJX Watches
Seiko Power Design Project Returns Jan 2, 2025

The Seiko Power Design Project Returns in 2025

Building on the success of the Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches, an annual design-focused exhibition inaugurated last year, Seiko has just opened the 2025 event Tokyo’s trendy Harajuku district. Open from now till February 16, 2025, this year’s exhibition delves further into combining watchmaking and design in innovative and whimsical ways to create concept watches that are distinct from the brand’s conventional offerings. Amongst the watches designed by six of Seiko’s designers is one conceived for the perfect boiled egg, and even a watch for a vampire that distinguishes between day and night. The “Vampire” watch, distinguished by its red dial and gemstone-accented bezel Among the exhibition’s other notable creations is a “tool watch” for a ninja. Entirely in black, this tells the time in a tactile manner. It’s even paired with a wrap-around strap inspired by the traditional Japanese archery glove. Featuring an all-black aesthetic that evokes the stealth of a ninja. Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches 2 takes place from December 20, 2024 to February 16, 2025, at Seiko Seed, an exhibition space owned by the watchmaker. It’s open to the public from 11:00 am-8:00 pm daily (with the last admission at 7:45 pm). Admission is free. Seiko Seed Harajuku 1-14-30 Jingumae Shibuya-ku, Tokyo For more, visit seiko-design.com.  

30 Years of the Lange 1 with Onyx or Blue SJX Watches
Casio n Oct 24, 2024

30 Years of the Lange 1 with Onyx or Blue

It seems like just yesterday that A. Lange & Söhne celebrated its 25th anniversary with the 10-piece Lange 1 set. But turning 30 is always a big deal, and the brand has risen to the occasion with limited editions of its flagship Lange 1 and its smaller sibling, the Little Lange 1, including a version with the brand’s first-ever mineral stone dial on a watch without gemstones. Both the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 30th Anniversary are available in pink gold with a navy blue dial, or in platinum with a black dial – both versions evoking uncommon historical versions of the model. Lange typically reserves the latter configuration for its special editions, and in this case the degree of specialness is dialled up a notch with a dial crafted from black onyx. Initial thoughts It’s no secret that I have a soft spot for Lange. Nevertheless, I’ve never warmed up to their black-dialled watches, including the Datograph, which I feel look a bit flat. Judging by the press images, the black onyx dial of the Lange 1 30th anniversary is a different animal; deep and glossy. The pink gold and navy blue references are also attractive, but it’s the platinum and black models that immediately captured my attention and have continued to occupy my thoughts. In most ways, the 30th anniversary editions of the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 are no different from the standard models. The cases measure 38.5 mm and 36.8 mm, respectively, and are about 10 mm thick. Naturally, the platinum models are ...

Bell & Ross Takes to the Skies with the BR-03 Horizon Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Takes Sep 17, 2024

Bell & Ross Takes to the Skies with the BR-03 Horizon Limited Edition

There are few things that I enjoy writing about more than a crazy new watch from Bell & Ross. These watches are catnip for me, whether it’s something along the lines of my beloved Multimeter, a watch incorporating a giant skull, or a case that gets the full lume treatment, I can’t help myself. Bell & Ross, when they’re weird, is one of my all time favorite brands, full stop. So it was with a great deal of interest that I came across the announcement of the all new BR-03 Horizon limited edition last week, the latest in the brand’s series of watches inspired by on-board aircraft instrumentation. Of course, it could be argued that any of the square cased Bell & Ross watches share this inspiration, sharing an aesthetic as they do with a kind of generic idea of a gauge that you might see in a cockpit, but the watches in this series take a more literal approach. The BR-03 Gyrocompass, for instance, has a dial that is dressed up as, well, a gyrocompass. And this limited edition, along those same lines, brings the artificial horizon to your wrist.  The artificial horizon is an essential tool for pilots, providing them with basic spatial orientation that is essential for safely piloting an aircraft. The gauge is quite simple, and shows at a quick glance an approximation of a an aircraft’s position relative to the surface of the earth. It’s particularly important for pilots flying in conditions where visibility might be an issue, such as in the dark or night or through ...

Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Worn & Wound
Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Many are Sep 10, 2024

Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11

Many are quick to point to the venerable Seiko SKX and Seiko Turtle as being the best entry-level dive watches, even going as far as to label them as “must haves” in every collection. That being said, I have always gone a bit against the grain. Now don’t get me wrong, both of those watches have made their way into my permanent collection over the years with the Seiko SKX007 claiming its place as my first serious tool watch, though neither have managed to capture more wrist time than my Seiko Samurai. There is something about the angular architecture, the aggressive handset, and the considerably chunky feel on my wrist that has plucked a heart string within, leading me to argue in its defense and recommend it to those with large wrists akin to my own. So, when I learned that Seiko would be introducing a new generation of Samurai models this year with refined proportions and updated visuals, I jumped at the opportunity to add yet another one to my collection and ordered the red-dialed Seiko Samurai SRPL11. $575 Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Case Stainless steel Movement 4R35 Dial Red Lume Yes Lens Mineral Strap Bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 41.6 x 49mm Thickness 12.7mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $575 While other models in the Seiko lineup have ultimately remained the same over the years, the Seiko Samurai has seen quite a few changes in its relatively short lifetime. Since its inception in 2004, we have seen the...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Classima WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Classima Somewhere Sep 7, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Classima

Somewhere in between dress and sports, the new Baume & Mercier Classima may be in a class of its own, but how does this piece traverse daily life? What we Love Classic and elegant looks The deep blue dial Has the right amount of wrist presence What We Don’t The rotor movement is a little noise The chronograph pushers are on the stiff side The crystal is on the thinner side, reducing the solid feeling of the watch Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 In a recent article, I delved into the history of Baume & Mercier, and the brand today, like many watch brands with almost two centuries worth of history, is different from the one started back in 1830 by the two Baume Brothers. Over the decades, and now centuries, it has evolved from a brand that was specialising in high complications and winning awards at The Kew Watch Trials, to being a solid mid-entry level player in the Swiss watch industry. This is a similar story to many others out there, and this is not a negative thing by any stretch, it’s just the way the world works – watches and other industries alike. William Baume and Paul Mercier, the founders of what is now known as Baume et Mercier, which evolved out of the original Baume & Co brand set up in 1830 by William’s Grandfather and Great Uncle. The pioneers of the brands and industries were just that, pioneers and the inventors of their time. Nowadays, you still need this, but more so, you need ...

Louis Erard Partners with Stefan Kudoke for their Latest Le Regulateur Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Partners Sep 5, 2024

Louis Erard Partners with Stefan Kudoke for their Latest Le Regulateur Limited Edition

Louis Erard continues their ongoing series of collaborations with important independent watchmakers via their Le Regulateur collection with a new group of limited editions made in collaboration with Stefan Kudoke. Kudoke is a German watchmaker who has gained a great deal of acclaim in recent years for his beautifully simple timepieces that tend to feature simple dials with subtle textures and elaborately engraved movements. The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 references are seen by many connoisseurs as modern classics, and like all of Stefan’s watches they have immediately recognizable motifs that make them distinctly “Kudoke.” These Louis Erard limited editions borrow just the right amount of these design elements to make them easily identifiable as being made in partnership with Kudoke, but probably only to the most serious watch nerds. Compared to previous limited editions with watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Alain Silberstein, the Kudoke watches feel considerably more under the radar and less flashy, which is fitting given the general aesthetic Kudoke is known for.  The Le Regulateur concept feels like a natural for a collaboration with Kudoke because so much of his work is based in a certain kind of precision that is part and parcel with traditional German watchmaking. For example, Kudoke’s watches tend to feature meticulously finished nameplates, chapter rings, which are represented on these watches in the dual signatures on each dial, as well as the railway t...

Grand Seiko Just Released a Collector’s Dream Watch! Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Just Released Sep 2, 2024

Grand Seiko Just Released a Collector’s Dream Watch!

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko announced the new 9SA4 caliber and the first two watches featuring it, the SLGW002 and SLGW003. As a refresher, the 9SA4 is a manual hi-beat (36,000 bph), 80-hour, time-only caliber featuring their in-house dual-impulse escapement, first seen in the 9SA5. With a power reserve on the back of the movement, beautiful bridge designs and finishing, and a unique “wagtail-bird-shaped” winding click, it set a new bar for Grand Seiko’s mechanical calibers. But, perhaps just as exciting as the movement itself was that the watches featuring it were sized at an idyllic 38.6mm diameter and 9.95mm thickness with a 20mm lug, addressing the naysayer’s concerns around Grand Seiko’s sizing. While a pair of fantastic releases, since introduction, we have been wondering where we will see this movement next. Well, we just got our answer, and I have to tell you, I’m equally surprised and delighted. They went vintage rather than with the new case and a different dial, which would have been most expected. Yes, they decided to bring back, as a limited edition, of course, a “recreation” of the 45GS from 1968. A little history, the 45GS came out a year after the 44GS and featured the same case design, but differed in that it featured the brand’s first hi-beat manual wound movement, the 4520. The SLGW005 – the return of the 45GS The 44/45GS case defines the Grand Seiko “Grammar of Design” as set out by Taro Tanaka, with flat, Zaratsu poli...

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Aug 20, 2024

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G

The Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G is one of Patek Philippe’s most practical watches in the “Compilations” family because it combines two useful functions: a calendar that needs setting only once every four years along with a dual time zone display with double day-night indicators. Smartly constructed such that the calendar indicators move in sync with the local time hand, the ref. 5326G has a vintage-toned aesthetic on a smartly detailed dial, presented in an elaborately decorated case. All of that, however, is packaged with a hefty price tag. Initial thoughts Like its sibling the Calatrava ref. 5226G, the ref. 5326G captures Patek Philippe’s latest generation aesthetic, which is not just about design, but fancy execution of the dial and case. Compared to equivalent models from before, the ref. 5326G takes a more elaborate approach to the habillage, with the hobnailed case flanks being an example. It does, however, still feel like a Patek Philippe. Though it’s relatively large at 41 mm, the case is thin at just over 11 mm, giving the watch an elegant, if wide, profile. The ref. 5326G also stands out for having a movement from the 31-260 family of large calibres that represent the latest and greatest in self-winding Patek Philippe movements. In fact, it’s one of only five references with a 31-260 movement. The cal. 31-260 is unquestionably the most sophisticated of Patek Philippe’s automatic movements, and also the most appealing in terms of design wi...

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue Two Broke Watch Snobs
Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Aug 19, 2024

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue

The Nomos Worldtimer is an interesting watch in the German Watchmaker’s catalog. It’s Nomos’ most complicated watch and their second most expensive, underneath the precious metal Lambda collection. The Zurich is called a worldtimer in name, but in reality it serves more as a GMT watch than a true worldtimer. Worldtimer’s tell time across time zones at a glance whereas the Zurich has the ability to advance the local time in 1hr increments while the sub-dial maintains 24-hr time in a set time zone. Nomos has made this watch for a long time. I found articles and blog posts referencing it going back to 2011. This is remarkable, on one hand, because it mean that Nomos’ has resisted the urge to build increasingly complicated watches and focused on truly honing their craft on the existing catalog.

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire Earlier Aug 19, 2024

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire

Earlier this year Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the refreshed Duometre line, with the entry into the new collection being the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the only steel model in the line-up so far. The dual train movement is used to power two separate sets of indications, one is the time with hours, minutes, and seconds, and the other a combination of the date, moon phase, and lightning seconds. Made  up of several models sporting an all-new look, this year’s Duometre collection is the first substantial facelift of the model line since its launch in 2007. While the original models had an aesthetic that brought to mind A. Lange & Söhne, the redesigned Duometre models have a more vintage-ish look that incorporates elements that are popular today, including a domed crystal and decorative recesses on the lugs. In terms of mechanical function, however, the new Duometre models are fundamentally the same. The “duo” barrels of the Duometre Initial thoughts The new look is a good one. It’s attractive and still fairly original; although it is vintage inspired, the design avoids looking generic, thanks in part to the distinctive Duometre dial layout. The domed crystal and dial result in the new model looking slightly bigger than the original, but at the same time it feels thinner. The dial layout is essentially the same as on the earlier generation Quantieme Lunaire as the movement is essentially identical. The recognisable double barrels-and-trains construction is evident, wh...

Hands-on – The Irresistible Allure of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph Aug 16, 2024

Hands-on – The Irresistible Allure of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph

Ever-evolving, Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 collection was given a facelift in 2023 with a series of stainless steel models. Respectful of the complex case architecture that has few detractors, the controversy surrounding the somewhat dull dials of the inaugural members was addressed with a new embossed dial pattern and revisited indices, hands and typeface. A […]

G-SHOCK Introduces the Two-Tone Utility Color Series Worn & Wound
Aug 5, 2024

G-SHOCK Introduces the Two-Tone Utility Color Series

Whenever I see the words “two-tone” come screaming across my inbox I wince just a little bit. I feel like for as long as I’ve been interested in watches, people have been trying to tell me that two-tone is coming back. Sometimes I’ve wondered if there are people in the industry whose entire job is to publicly speculate on the status of two-tone among the larger watch collecting set. I tend to think that there’s so much conversation about whether or not it’s coming back, nobody would even notice if it arrived. So that’s the headspace I was in when I glanced at the latest press release from G-SHOCK, which heralded the arrival of the Two-Tone Utility Color Series.  It turns out that these watches aren’t really what you’d normally think of in a two-tone conversation. They are quite literally multi-toned, meaning they incorporate both the traditional black resin cases found across the G-SHOCK line with brown integrated straps (with dial accents in complementary shades of green and yellow, for the most part). So two-tone, in your grandpa’s Datejust sense of the term, is a misnomer here. Digging further into the press release, though, I found another buzzword heard less often in the watch community: “Gorpcore”.  Just for the hell of it, I decided to apply some statistical analysis here to see if gorpcore in the watch world is something I’ve simply missed out on. I searched for the term in my email, and retrieved exactly two hits. The first, of course, ...

Monta Adds a GMT Complication to the Noble Collection with the New Noble Voyager Worn & Wound
Monta Jul 5, 2024

Monta Adds a GMT Complication to the Noble Collection with the New Noble Voyager

Monta has announced an upgrade to their popular Noble collection today with the Noble Voyager. This new watch expands on the Noble concept, which is an old-fashioned luxury sport watch with distinct refined details that place just a click outside the “tool watch” category, by adding a GMT complication. This, of course, makes complete sense for a sports watch that was conceived to go anywhere. Now, when you go there (or, anywhere) you’ll be fully able to monitor an additional time zone.  The execution here is quite subtle, and unless you were really searching for it, it would be easy to miss the GMT complication entirely. Monta has chosen to make the 24 hour hand a skeletonized clone of the local hour hand rather than a more traditional long hand with a broad arrow tip, or something of that nature. This helps to keep the Noble Voyager’s dial clean so that the drama of the lightly textured dégradé dials (in green or blue) remain intact. This was always my favorite design element of the original Noble, and I’m glad to see that Monta has held this over from the time and date versions of the watch. Besides the additional hand and a 24 hour scale at the dial’s perimeter, this is still very easily recognized as a Noble.  The Noble Voyager’s case has nearly the same dimensions as the time and date model, measuring 38.5mm in diameter and 47mm lug to lug. The difference comes in the case height measurement, which is 10.7mm on the Noble Voyager compared to 9.7mm on ...

Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber Worn & Wound
Yema Jun 24, 2024

Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber

French watchmaker Henry-Louis Belmont established Yema in 1948 and quickly became known for manufacturing ultra-capable tool watches. By 1954 their production reached 130,000 watches and by the mid 1960s they were selling over 400,000 watches annually in 55 countries. Their motto “Time of Heroes” became their official slogan, and their watches were particularly suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Today, Yema is experiencing a resurgence and is introducing a new modern interpretation of their iconic Skin Diver. The Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is not just another pretty face. Beneath the beautiful dark grey dial beats their in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20 movement (CMM.20). It is rated for accuracy at -3/+7 seconds a day, has a power reserve of 70 hours, and is extra slim due to its micro-rotor. The watch measures 39mm in diameter, 47mm from lug-to-lug, and only 10mm tall to the top of the double-domed sapphire crystal. Despite being relatively thin, it is water-resistant to an impressive depth of 300 meters. Adding to its vintage styling is a dark grey, faded bezel insert covered by sapphire glass. Its lume pip, along with all the lume on the dial and markers, has that aged radium look, which complements the design very well. The watch comes mounted on a new slimmer Yema Scales bracelet, which integrates better with the Skin Diver’s slimmer profile. The screw-down case back offers a transparent view of the movement, featuring a black ALD (ato...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts May 30, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic

The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function.  The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality.  A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...

Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 Fratello
Panerai s New Luminor Dieci May 21, 2024

Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482

Panerai unveils a 44mm stainless steel Luminor with automatic GMT caliber and a 10-day power reserve. As part of the Complicazioni collection, which includes chronographs and high-end complications, the GMT allows the tracking of dual time zones. With the polished cushion-shaped case, sandwich dial, and recognizable crown protector, this new PAM01482 includes many notable Panerai […] Visit Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 to read the full article.

Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II Oystersteel Ref. 126710GRNR SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II Oystersteel Ref May 17, 2024

Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II Oystersteel Ref. 126710GRNR

Just released at Watches & Wonders 2024, the Rolex GMT-Master II in steel with a grey and black bezel (ref. 126710GRNR) is the newest addition to the famous line of dual time zone watches. More restrained in terms of colour, the new GMT-Master sports a 24-hour bezel with a grey-and-black Cerachrom insert. It’s still immediately recognisable, but a bit more discreet than its siblings in the collection, especially the famous “Pepsi” that is perhaps too recognisable.  Like several other Rolex sports models, the 126710GRNR sports green accents on the dial and GMT hand. And the 126710GRNR is available on either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Initial thoughts The GMT-Master II is a almost perfect, with little that needs revision. While some expected a “Coke” GMT this year, the 126710GRNR is a solid proposition for anyone who wants a GMT-Master dressed more subtly. The bi-colour bezel is functional without being too loud unlike the better-known GMT-Master “Pepsi”. Flashy or recognisable watches sometimes attract unwanted attention, so dialling back the bezel colours is smart. In fact, the 126710GRNR may as well be more appealing than the discontinued 116710LN with its all-black bezel. Although I prefer the all-black bezel of the 116710LN, the grey and black bezel of the 126710GRNR is more functional as it separates day and night. The Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” 126710BLRO The green accents are a nice touch and also logical since green is the Rolex corporate c...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata “Only Watch 2024” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata “Only May 2, 2024

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata “Only Watch 2024”

The surprising, and to some shocking, Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata created for Only Watch 2024 is over the top in both aesthetics and complexity. Based on the brand’s automata wristwatch that’s available either as a Chinese mask or vanitas skull, the Einstein Automata has the air of a mad scientist’s creation. Depressing the pusher at two o’clock starts the automata, which also serve to tell the time with a jumping hours display in Einstein’s forehead and the minutes indicated by the atom symbol pointer at eight o’clock. Made in-house at its Geneva manufacture of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the watch illustrates Louis Vuitton’s impressive matchmaking capabilities, while also bringing to mind the extravagant, casual style of its streetwear. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the Einstein Automata, I knew I had to see it in person. And in the metal the watch certainly lives up to expectations, it is bizarre, impressive, and wearable, all at the same time. It is bizarre because Einstein is accurately portrayed – the likeness is done well – yet rendered in alien colours of pale blue and silver. It’s impressive because the dial is enamelled and engraved in-house while the movement is exceptionally complex. And it’s wearable despite being a very large watch because the case is in stainless steel, unlike its regular production counterparts that are in gold. Do I like it? I do. But I can imagine a lot of people won’t and I can understand...

H. Moser & Cie. Launches the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Alpine” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Launches Apr 24, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Launches the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Alpine”

With its sponsorship of Renault’s Formula 1 team, H. Moser & Cie. has created a limited edition for the occasion, the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition. This combines the brand’s unusual cylindrical tourbillon with its sporty Streamliner presented for the first on a strap instead of a bracelet. Initial thoughts  In the wake of its deal with the Alpine Motorsports, Renault’s sports car division, Moser’s latest limited edition is hardly a surprise. The concept of an open-worked tourbillon in a modern, sporty case is not a new one, but this is technically novel thanks to the tall cylindrical hairspring inside the tourbillon carriage, made possible thanks to Moser’s sister company that produces hairsprings. Fortunately this is not a typical F1 watch dressed in team colours and sporting a logo. The entire face is devoid of branding and Alpine’s trademark blue instead forms the transparent sub-dial at 12 that contrasts with the anthracite bridges below.  The removal of the bracelet, however, also removes some of the character of the Streamliner. This looks less distinctive than the typical Streamliner on a bracelet. That is not a permanent problem since a bracelet can be installed, and since the case is steel, at presumably moderate cost. The Alpine edition retails for CHF89,000, a CHF10,000 increase over the recent Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton that has a bracelet but no cylindrical hairspring. All things consider, the premium is...

Recap – The Best Travel and GMT Watches of Watches & Wonders 2024 and The Geneva Week Monochrome
Apr 18, 2024

Recap – The Best Travel and GMT Watches of Watches & Wonders 2024 and The Geneva Week

Long praised for being some of the most practical and relevant timepieces around, Travel and GMT watches are classics that most brands need to have somewhere in their collections. Whether we’re talking about classic multi-time zone watches with a central 24-hour hand, dual-time models with additional indications on their dials or complex world-time timepieces, the […]

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Hublot Mar 9, 2024

Arken Launches their First Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day

As an avid lover of tool watches, there aren’t many brands that have caught my attention in the last few years quite like Arken. Part of the explosion of small independent watch brands coming out of the UK, Arken has been on my mind since the release of their first watch, the Instrumentum, in 2021. The Instrumentum was followed up by the Alterum last year and now Arken is releasing their first-ever limited edition; a new variant of the Alterum inspired by the Year of the Dragon - a popular source of inspiration over the last few months with everyone from Hublot to JLC getting in on the action. In technical terms, the Alterum Year of the Dragon is the same watch we were introduced to last year, and which is now starting to pop up on people’s wrists as delivery gets underway. The Year of the Dragon comes in the same 200m water-resistant 40mm grade 2 titanium case and is equipped with the same modified Miyota 9015 movement as the standard production variant (all of which you can read more about in Thomas Calara’s post introducing the watch back in June). The dial of the Year of the Dragon is where the differences between this limited edition and the standard model start to show themselves. The Year of the Dragon opts to replace the frosted black and anthracite dials of the standard release with a more exciting deep red, three-dimensional, textured, “blasted dragon scale” motif. I’ve never seen a dial quite like this before, and while the name alone would be enou...

Nomos Gets Ready For A Colorful Spring - Introducing The Club Campus In Nonstop Red And Endless Blue Fratello
Nomos Gets Ready Feb 29, 2024

Nomos Gets Ready For A Colorful Spring - Introducing The Club Campus In Nonstop Red And Endless Blue

Even without mentioning the name, if I tell you these watches have an all-polished 36 or 38.5mm case, Roman and Arabic numerals, a hand-wound movement, and colorful dials with a contrasting sub-seconds hand, you’ll probably already know what watches I’m talking about. The Nomos Club Campus has become quite an icon for the young Saxon […] Visit Nomos Gets Ready For A Colorful Spring - Introducing The Club Campus In Nonstop Red And Endless Blue to read the full article.

Just a Minute with the Seiko Prospex Alpinist GMT Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex Alpinist GMT Today’s Feb 16, 2024

Just a Minute with the Seiko Prospex Alpinist GMT

Today’s star is the Seiko Prospex Alpinist GMT, a fresh take on a cult classic. The SPB377 and SPB379 are based on the original 1959 Alpinist that became a full-blown phenomenon as watch collectors began to appreciate the watch’s toolish good looks and practicality. Today the Alpinist is positioned in the Seiko Prospex line, which is focused on purpose-built tool watches with serious specs. The additional GMT functionality is a welcome upgrade to elevate the Alpinist already storied reputation as a superlative explorer and traveler’s watch. Whether you reach for the blue-dialed SPB377 or the black SPB379, you can be certain you are getting a reliable timepiece with a celebrated history. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. Today’s star is the Seiko Prospex Alpinist GMT, a fresh take on a cult classic. The SPB377 and SPB379 are based on the original 1959 Alpinist that became a full-blown phenomenon as watch collectors began to appreciate the watch’s toolish good looks and practicality. Today the Alpinist is positioned in the Seiko Prospex line, which is focused on purpose-built tool watches with serious specs. The additional GMT functionality is a welcome upgrade to elevate the Alpinist already storied reputation as a superlative explorer and traveler’s watch. Whether you reach for the...

The Most Audacious TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Week Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Feb 5, 2024

The Most Audacious TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Week

TAG Heuer marked LVMH Watch Week with some high-end experimental pieces. With fancy watch complications and highly scientific lasers and lab work, the watches represent impressive steps forward in technology in general. They’re also just really cool to look at. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox uses the same circular brushed finish as the Carrera Chronograph we told you about last week, and the same eye-catching teal green, which TAG Heuer says is meant to pay tribute to vintage racing colors. But the rest of its dial’s details diverge radically from that of the Chronograph. Two registers, one at the 9 o’clock and the other at the 3 o’clock, and an aperture at the 6 o’clock that lets you look into the tourbillon give the watch a very balanced and maximalist look. TAG Heuer knows they’ve got something with the Glassbox crystal design and decided not to mess with a good thing. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon has the same domed sapphire crystal that TAG fans have loved in other releases since this form factor debuted a year ago. The exhibition caseback is also sapphire, giving you a good look at the Heuer 02–TH20-09 movement inside. Tourbillon movements are incredibly complex, with a rotating cage surrounding the movement that offsets the effect of gravity on the accuracy of the watch. As a result, the movement is a bit bigger than the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph’s automatic movement, necessitating a 42mm dial with a 48.6mm lug to lug ...

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon After Jan 31, 2024

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon

After the Carrera Dato Chronograph that we showed you on Monday, we have something a tad more complicated today. This is the teal-dial TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon. And it is all in the name - well, except for the fact that this new watch is part of the very popular Glassbox collection. So you […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon to read the full article.