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New Release: IWC’s Mark XX edition Deployant
IWC s Mark XX edition Oct 8, 2022

New Release: IWC’s Mark XX edition

The IWC Mark XX is a highly wearable military timepiece with simplicity and functionality at its core. It has 120 hours power reserve which is significantly more than the average 3 days movement today. You may recall that the designers took their inspiration from the 1930s Junkers Ju 52 cockpit instruments, which have served as the model for classic pilot’s watches. The displays are round, generously sized and clearly arranged. The Arabic figures, big and round, stand proudly in position, with just two exceptions: instead of a “12”, we see a white triangle with a single dot on either side for better legibility, and at “3 o’clock” a date window, as a concession to modernity. The 40mm watch is well sized without being bulky at 10.8mm, uses contrasting dial and displays come very close to the ideal of the classic pilot’s watch. The watch is priced at US$5250 on leather and US$6150 on bracelet.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Manime La F is a watch dedicated to the theme of friendship Time+Tide
Oct 3, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Manime La F is a watch dedicated to the theme of friendship

The most popular watches at the moment are often surrounded by a contextual suffering. Military watches have quite a dark theme, and you could make the argument that dive watches are also the embodiment of surviving harsh conditions. In practice, most watch fans use their watches as extensions of their own tastes instead of life-or-death … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Manime La F is a watch dedicated to the theme of friendship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video Time+Tide
Sep 29, 2022

Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video

At Time+Tide we love a good ambassador and brand pairing. I even recently prompted the team to participate in a Fantasy Watch Ambassador Draft, matching up celebs who have never been watch ambassadors with various brands. Ambassadors irrefutably draw attention to the brands they represent and, when done properly, create a cultural imprint that ultimately … ContinuedThe post Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rado DiaStar Celebrates Its 60th Anniversary Revolution
Rado DiaStar Celebrates Sep 28, 2022

The Rado DiaStar Celebrates Its 60th Anniversary

Eléonor speaks with Rado CEO, Adrian Bosshard and internationally-renowned, multi award-winning product designer, Alfredo Häberli at the launch of the 60th Anniversary editions of the Rado DiaStar. The original DiaStar was futuristic in its design and groundbreaking in its use of advanced materials, and the 60th Anniversary editions pay homage to that spirit by incorporating […]

For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge Time+Tide
Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened Sep 20, 2022

For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge

First released in 1962, the Rado DiaStar Original is one kooky watch design. Recognisable at a glance thanks to its striking, oval case, it exudes a retro-futuristic vibe – the sort of watch you can imagine George Jetson wearing in his flying car. But this quirky veneer disguises it’s horological significance.  The DiaStar is, in … ContinuedThe post For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition Sep 20, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition

The concept of the open heart dial is nothing new, but it’s not necessarily a popular one. For the last few decades, watch snobs have dismissed open heart dials because of how often they appear on lower-end mechanical watches, sometimes as imitations of tourbillons or placed seemingly at random. Although the luxury market tends to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Book Review: MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years SJX Watches
MB&F; Sep 19, 2022

Book Review: MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years

MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. By Suzanne Wong and William Massena. La Martinière/Abrams; CHF198 for M.A.D. Gallery edition; US$170 for standard edition. To celebrate its 15 years – from 2005 to 2020 – of making extraordinary watches, MB&F; commissioned a 312-page book, MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. In its short foreword, MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser states he did not want a biography since they are “only written at the end of a journey”. Instead, he puts forward the rhetorical question: developing 18 calibres for over 160 products over the period “deserves to be documented, right?” He adds “hundreds of artisans, engineers and watchmakers” came along for the ride and “this is the story I love to tell”. He describes the tome as a catalogue raisonné, adding that it is something “never been done for a watch brand; a world first in the watchmaking industry!” Defined by the New York Public Library, a catalogue raisonné in the visual arts serves as an important tool not just to establish an artist’s oeuvre, and thus record history, but also to aid in authentication by cataloguing all the known works of an artist. The New York Public Library also adds “Essay(s) on the artist” and “Critical assessments and remarks” as desirable content in such a publication. All the watches and all the friends The main part of the book is such a catalogue of 254 pages, divided into three sections: “Horological Machines”, “Legacy Machines”, ...

Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Sep 16, 2022

Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide

The Longines HydroConquest features a boldly contemporary design and a sturdy, water-resistant construction that have made it one of the most popular dive watches in its sport-luxury price segment. Since its debut in 2007, the Longines HydroConquest has expanded into a versatile collection with an array of sizes, colorways, and materials to appeal to a wide audience of dive watch enthusiasts. Here are seven things to know if you're looking at adding a Longines HydroConquest watch to your collection. The Longines HydroConquest has its roots in Longines’ very first named collection from 1954. Longines, which derives its name from “les longines,” aka “the long meadows” that surround the Swiss village of Saint-Imier where it was founded, has been making timepieces since 1832. It wasn’t until 1954, however, that Longines began engaging in the modern marketing practice of introducing product families with distinctive names. “Conquest” was the first such name to be registered, on April 3, 1954, with the Swiss Register of Intellectual Property. The original Longines Conquest (reproduced above) was designed as one of the first generation of “modern” wristwatches, i.e., equipped with a highly accurate automatic movement and a water-resistant case that also protected the movement from magnetism and shocks.  Despite its utilitarian elements, the original Conquest was undeniably a dress watch, with a very modest 35mm case; a clean, minimalist dial; applied diamond...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US Time+Tide
Richard Mille fans Sep 16, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US

When the Zenith Chronmaster Revival went pink for the Pink Dial Project Auction, many bidders were excited at the prospect of winning such a vibrant piece unique. Sadly, this meant many missed out – until now. In a manner that allows more people to have a pink-dialled Zenith watch, while protecting the integrity of the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

George Clooney and Hyun Bin showcase the Omega Speedmaster ’57 Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster ’57 Omega have Sep 15, 2022

George Clooney and Hyun Bin showcase the Omega Speedmaster ’57

Omega have been at the forefront of vintage-inspired sports watches for quite some time, and the latest revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ‘57 shows what a great place watchmaking is in right now. We seem to have made it through the onslaught of strait-laced vintage reissues, and now their evolutions featuring daring and creative dials … ContinuedThe post George Clooney and Hyun Bin showcase the Omega Speedmaster ’57 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insight: The Last Pilot’s Watch – Tutima’s Military Chronograph SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Bremont Sep 13, 2022

Insight: The Last Pilot’s Watch – Tutima’s Military Chronograph

Pilot’s watches, and specifically military-inspired pilot’s watches, are a pillar of the modern, luxury watch industry. Dozens of brands, notably IWC, Breitling, Bell & Ross, Bremont, and Yema, have made military aviation a core theme of their image. So it’s somewhat ironic that today’s elite military pilots don’t wear mechanical watches in the cockpit. A recent survey of pilots at MCAS Miramar, the airbase once home to the prestigious “Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor” programme – better known as TOPGUN – revealed that not a single pilot was wearing a mechanical watch. Instead, military pilots increasingly wear  smartwatches designed specifically for aviators like the Garmin D2 that can monitor oxygen levels and act as a backup navigation system. Modern pilot’s watches made by luxury brands are more like “fan fiction”; a designer’s dream of what might have been. But this wasn’t always the case. Mechanical watches were once state-of-the-art technology and vital instruments for navigators and pilots before being rendered obsolete by quartz technology. This is the story of how the urgency of the Cold War gave the humble balance wheel one last chance to patrol the skies. The jet-shaped counterweight on the IWC Top Gun SFTI calls to mind the airplane-tipped chronograph minutes hand of Cold War-era pilot’s watches like the Tutima 798 A brief history of the pilot’s watch Pilot’s watches have been around for almost as long as there have been p...

Geneva Watch Days 2022 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy Quill & Pad
Sep 10, 2022

Geneva Watch Days 2022 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy

The third edition of the sunny, COVID-19-friendly Geneva Watch Days came to a close on September 2, so of course we must talk about it. And this time we brought our friends Robert-Jan Broer of Fratello and Łukasz Doskocz of CH24! Please join this Quill & Pad round table discussion of what we did and didn’t like at Geneva Watch Days 2022.

The Benetict Cumberwatches: Why so many watches have overcomplicated names Time+Tide
Sep 7, 2022

The Benetict Cumberwatches: Why so many watches have overcomplicated names

Benedict Cumberbatch, decorated actor, deserves recognition for his work in The Imitation Game, The Power of Dog and Patrick Melrose. Today, however, we’ll poke a bit of fun at something the Internet has been having a go at for years – his name. Re-christened as Blubberbutt Cunningsnatch, Bendyboot Coffeecup and Bendydick Thundersnatch, he’s had a fair share of grief … ContinuedThe post The Benetict Cumberwatches: Why so many watches have overcomplicated names appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sincere (Re)Opens SHH Concept Store in Singapore SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey H Moser & Cie Sep 7, 2022

Sincere (Re)Opens SHH Concept Store in Singapore

With edgy decor that set it apart from a typical luxury-watch store of the period, the inaugural Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) in Singapore’s Hilton hotel was one of the world’s first “concept” stores dedicated to high-end mechanical watches when it opened in 2005. After a run of well over a decade, the original SHH store closed in 2019, but the format has now made a comeback at Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino complex. Located along a stretch of the mall dominated by watch and jewellery brands, the new SHH once again focuses on niche and independent brands. Its stable of brands total 19 and include Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie., Laurent Ferrier, Parmigiani, and Ferdinand Berthoud. Reboot and revive Being amongst the first retailers in the world to offer brands that were then just startups but would go on to do great things – Sincere took on Franck Muller in 1992, Lange in 1995, Panerai in 1998, and F.P. Journe in 2000 – SHH was a logical progression of Sincere’s retail strategy in the early 2000s. “[SHH in Hilton] was meant to be a touch point for very fine mechanical watches and high end brands,” says long-serving Sincere chief executive Ong Ban, “At the same time, it was also a launchpad for what we thought were the future stars of the industry.” Projects like the first SHH helped established Sincere as one of the three biggest watch retailers in Southeast Asia, alongside Cortina Watch and The Hour Glass. But after several changes in ownership, S...

INTRODUCING: Norqain impresses with the new Adventure Sport 37mm Limited Edition Time+Tide
Norqain impresses Sep 4, 2022

INTRODUCING: Norqain impresses with the new Adventure Sport 37mm Limited Edition

Norqain has become one of those brands that is synonymous with adventure. From tackling the great outdoors to becoming at one with mother nature. Yet, as other brands interpret adventure differently for men and ladies (often creating a dumbed down version of a more adequate watch), Norqain breaks the mold. They continue to highlight what … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Norqain impresses with the new Adventure Sport 37mm Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baume & Mercier Watches: A Complete History and Guide to the Collectio Teddy Baldassarre
Baume & Mercier Aug 31, 2022

Baume & Mercier Watches: A Complete History and Guide to the Collectio

Baume & Mercier is a watch brand that prides itself in its pursuit of classical watchmaking mixed with timelessly elegant style and in offering its timepieces at a price point that defines "affordable luxury." If you're new to Baume & Mercier watches, there's likely a lot about this nearly two-century-old watchmaker that you don't know. Here we explore the history and watchmaking milestones of Baume & Mercier, from its origins in 1830 to today.  1830: The Brothers Baume Baume & Mercier is the sixth-oldest watchmaker* currently in operation, having begun its existence in 1830, founded by Louis-Victor Baume and his brother Pierre-Joseph Celestine Baume. In the beginning, the company, at the time known as “Frères Baume" (“Baume Brothers”), sold its pocket watches out of a shop in the Swiss Jura village of Les Bois. By the 1850s, Frères Baume had built its business, and its reputation for quality watchmaking, enough to set up a branch in London, a major market and an important center for international expansion - first throughout the United Kingdom, then into India, Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, and other nations that at the time were part of the British Empire.  The watches the Baume brothers produced toward the end of the 19th Century included high complications like chronographs, calendars, tourbillons, and minute repeaters. They were also renowned for their precision and accuracy, winning 10 Grand Prix awards and seven gold medals for time measurement ...

Borna’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days Time+Tide
Aug 30, 2022

Borna’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days

Geneva Watch Days, a trade show that began as a pandemic special, has now expanded way beyond its initial eight founding brands, with more than 20 exhibiting partners for its 2022 edition. I was happy to see so many independent brands showcased at the event, which will become painfully obvious in my top five picks … ContinuedThe post Borna’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures Du Monde: An Exquisite Double-Signed Trip Around The World Quill & Pad
Aug 26, 2022

Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures Du Monde: An Exquisite Double-Signed Trip Around The World

Despite having made more than 100 pièces uniques among a grand total of approximately 1,500 timepieces spanning 42 years of a truly inventive career, independent watchmaker and co-founder of the A.H.C.I. Svend Andersen has become particularly known for the worldtimer, a complicated timepiece displaying the time in 24 time zones. Here Elizabeth Doerr shares a brief history of worldtimers and blue gold while looking at the Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures du Monde.

The Best Seiko 5 Sports Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Aug 26, 2022

The Best Seiko 5 Sports Watches

The Seiko 5 watch series traces its roots all the way back to 1963, when the Japanese mega-brand introduced the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define the vast collection today. These include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the watches run the gamut from dress pieces to field watches to divers, with all kinds of variations in between (the current shorthand descriptions are Sense, Specialist, Sports, Suits, and Street). Seiko 5 watches still adhere to those five principles initially laid out more than half a century ago while still retaining the famously inexpensive price points that have made them so desirable - from under $100 to the neighborhood of $500 for the more exclusive editions. Seiko 5 watches - rebranded in the collection’s relaunch in 2019 as Seiko 5 Sports, despite offering this diversity of styles - have a worldwide fan following, with many JDM (Japan Direct Market) models highly sought after by American collectors due to their scarcity. And for many a budding watch collector of modest means, a Seiko 5 watch is the gateway drug to a full-blown timepiece obsession. Here we spotlight some of our favorites.  SRPC65 “Bottlecap” Reference: SRPC65, Price: $150-$250, Case Size: 45mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug-to-L...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Aug 26, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack

Debuted just two years ago, the Streamliner was Moser’s first try at an integrated-bracelet sports watch and it was a success. With its distinctive case and bracelet, the Streamliner is very much a watch that caters to the tastes of today, which has unsurprisingly made it the brand’s bestseller. The latest in the line up, however, is a change in tone. With a dial that’s minimalist as usual, the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack is unabashedly extravagant in 18k red gold from end to end, putting it in stark contrast with the uniformly steel Streamliners that came before. Initial thoughts The best part of the latest Streamliner is its design, which manages to blend several elements in a coherent manner: luxury, mechanical complexity, and of course simplicity. With this new launch, the Streamliner is finally available in gold. While all past models were in steel, the Streamliner Tourbillon is surprisingly attractive despite being so different. In fact, the case and bracelet are arguably made even more compelling in precious metal, since the material lends the watch both heft and elegance, while the glow of the rosy metal brings out the surface finish. In contrast to the extravagant case and bracelet, the dial is spare and contrasts well against the gold case. Coated in Vantablack, an ultra-black substance, the dial is sparsely furnished with plain hour markers and no minute track, making it the simplest amongst the Streamliner collection. That said, the rounded hands a...

Delma Introduces the Quattro Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Seiko s many Prospex dive Aug 25, 2022

Delma Introduces the Quattro Diver’s Watch

A small, family-owned brand that focuses on affordable sports watches, Delma already has a half dozen-strong lineup of dive watches, but its latest is certainly the most novel. Rated to 500 m, the Quattro is a chunky dive watch with an unusual feature: the case module can be detached from the lugs and installed on a decompression plate. Initial thoughts Chunky dive watches are common across a wide range of the price spectrum, but most so at the affordable end. So the latest from Delma seems like yet another player on a crowded field. But the Quattro is interesting in a few respects. For one, the wide bezel and recessed crown give it an unusual enough look that it stands apart from the competition. Then there’s main attraction, a bayonet mechanism that allows the watch to be installed on a decompression plate. It’s questionable whether this has much functionality for a diver, but it does make the Quattro different. But detachable case notwithstanding, the Quattro is pricey for a watch powered by a Sellita movement. Seiko’s many Prospex dive watches are about a quarter less expensive, while Sinn’s ultra-robust U1 is only slight more expensive. Three ways Massive at 44 mm wide and 15.3 mm high, the case of the Quattro locks into a frame with the lugs via a bayonet-lock mechanism. A tiny sliding button on the side of the case releases the locking mechanism, while the frame is essentially a milled steel ring with the lugs at each corner. The release button is next to th...

Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display Time+Tide
Hamilton s digital darling has Aug 23, 2022

Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display

First released in a gold and red variant echoing the 1970s original, the PSR has seen numerous iterations over the last two years. We covered two blacked-out models at the start of the year, one of which had close ties to another reboot – the Matrix franchise. The new Hamilton PSR with a green hybrid … ContinuedThe post Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Game recognises (wrist) game: The NFL’s elite quarterbacks and their watch collections Time+Tide
Aug 21, 2022

Game recognises (wrist) game: The NFL’s elite quarterbacks and their watch collections

With autumn just around the corner, it’s time for America’s favourite sport to start ramping up again. The NFL preseason is already under way, and along with the excitement of the game on the field, we at Time + Tide are looking forward to the new season’s wrist game from the league’s top quarterbacks. Football’s … ContinuedThe post Game recognises (wrist) game: The NFL’s elite quarterbacks and their watch collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is the worst thing in the watch world ever Time+Tide
Aug 19, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is the worst thing in the watch world ever

There’s a necessary change of format to this week’s Wind Down because we’ve discovered the worst thing in the watch world ever. Admittedly, there’s some pretty stiff competition out there in a nefarious scene full of flippers, fakes and 4 o’clock date windows. But a forthcoming auction at Bonhams really takes the horological biscuit. The … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is the worst thing in the watch world ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero SJX Watches
Aug 18, 2022

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

Short for “Franc Vila Founder”, FVF is a tale of redemption. Founded by the namesake designer, FVF is the second act of the Spanish watch designer, one he embarked on after his first went off the rails as many independent watch brands tend to do. FVF’s inaugural watch is the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. It’s an original look and at a glance there’s nothing linking it to the creations of the original Franc Vila brand – a good thing in my estimation. But look closely and hints of the earlier designs emerge. Most importantly the FVF1 reveals itself as an impressively executed watch – the movement has an interesting construction, excellent finishing, and an original aesthetic. Mr Vila has made his comeback in style. NB: The watch pictured is a prototype that’s been worn so it shows wear. The FVF1 has a flying tourbillon, roller day indicator, day and night display, and a 100-hour power reserve Rising from the ashes Born in Valencia but now a longtime resident of Switzerland, Mr Vila founded his namesake brand in 2005 and rode the wave that buoyed modern, flamboyant independent watchmaking for the next decade or so. Propelled by Mr Vila’s convivial personality, Franc Vila became one of the hot brands of the era. During those heady days, it could sell several dozen tourbillons and minute repeaters a year, making it one of the top clients of now-defunct complications specialist BNB Concept. A classic from the original Franc Vila brand, the Tourbillon Planèta...

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph is the essence of sporty luxury Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph Aug 17, 2022

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph is the essence of sporty luxury

Parmigiani Fleurier’s approach to design has taken a minimalist turn of late, most notably with the Tonda PF collection. Nevertheless, as a maker of luxury sports watches, they’re still striving to find ways to implement that athletic aesthetic into their pieces, and the ones we had the pleasure of looking at here give a great … ContinuedThe post The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph is the essence of sporty luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Did Grand Seiko just give us the perfect two-watch collection? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko just give us Aug 17, 2022

Did Grand Seiko just give us the perfect two-watch collection?

A few days ago, as I sat in front of my watch box, a familiar thought crossed my mind. One I’ve already shared with you all before. And that’s the feeling that I own too many watches. Some may consider this a random thought but when 10 watches are staring back at you, it’s not … ContinuedThe post Did Grand Seiko just give us the perfect two-watch collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.