5,720 articles · 331 videos found · page 174 of 202
Quill & Pad
Sit back and enjoy as Quill & Pad co-founder and editor-in-chief Elizabeth Doerr, freelance journalist Roberta Naas, and Barbara Hans, head of marketing at A. Lange & Söhne, talk with Dr. Carl Naughton about their experiences as women in the predominantly men’s world of mechanical watches.
Time+Tide
If you love dive watches, Jeffrey Kingston is a name you should be familiar with. He literally wrote the book on the first early dive watches produced by Blancpain and has been a knowledgable fixture in the watch world for nearly two decades. Before he focused his attention on horological scholarship, Kingston was a successful … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A deep dive with Jeffrey Kingston, the man behind the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms documentary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The French word ingenieur means “engineer”, and the main selling point of IWC’s first watch with this name was that it was antimagnetic, with its movement being protected from potentially damaging magnetic fields via a soft-iron inner case.
SJX Watches
A “microbrand” based in Singapore, Boldr is all about affordable sports watches. The latest addition to its catalogue is the Odyssey Regatta, unusual for being a yachting-countdown watch at a notably accessible price. Initial thoughts Affordable, solid dive watches are commonplace nowadays, often offered by “microbrands” like Boldr. But the Odyssey Regatta sets itself apart from the competition due to its regatta countdown function (admittedly a simple execution powered by a 7750). And it’s an attractive design, especially the faceted case. Though the case is stamped and looks the part, it’s still typified by strong, angular lines. There’s a boldness in the case design that reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept. The Odyssey Regatta exemplifies Boldr’s focus on rugged “tool” watches. Having handled the prototype, I was impressed by the build quality, given its price. Feeling reassuringly solid on the wrist, the watch has a heft that’s reminiscent of dive watches like the Oris Aquis and the Sinn U1. But the heft might be a bit too much for some. At 45 mm wide and 18.2 mm thick, the Odyssey Regatta is a beast on the wrist. It took me some time to get used to the watch’s towering case. Nevertheless, the weighty Odyssey Regatta represents a good option for someone searching for a large regatta chronograph that won’t break the bank. Priced at US$1,499, it represents strong value. For comparison, the Frederique Constant Regatta Countdown...
Quill & Pad
Sit back and enjoy as Quill & Pad resident collector GaryG and Alexandre Ghotbi, director of the Philipps Auctions watch department for Europe and the Middle East, and A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid talk about watch collecting with Dr. Carl Naughton in this engaging video.
SJX Watches
Unveiled just last week alongside its sterling-silver sibling, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is Tudor’s first solid-gold dive watch. A significant milestone for Tudor that perhaps reveals aspirations further up the price spectrum, the Fifty-Eight 18K lives up to its ambitions. Initial thoughts In late 2019 I was speaking with a senior Tudor executive and got an inkling that a solid-gold watch might be in the works. Being a fan of the brand (and fortunate enough to own a few of them), that was something I was very much looking forward to. Now Tudor has finally done it, and I am impressed with the result. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is attractive, feels good in the hand, and is also well priced. The only disappointment is the lack of a matching gold bracelet. I know that would hike the price by at least 50%, but even then it would be a good buy – and it would be truly cool. Fingers crossed a bracelet is in the works. But even sans bracelet the new Fifty-Eight feels good in the hand. It’s sized (almost) exactly the same as the steel Fifty-Eight, making it the perfect size for an easy-to-wear dive watch. Naturally, the gold version is slightly heavier than the steel equivalent, but the weight is just enough to seem substantive, but not so much it’s unwieldy on the soft fabric strap (more on the weight reduction below). The weight gives the Fifty-Eight 18k an appropriately expensive feel. But as is always the norm with Tudor watches, the quality of the watch lives ...
Time+Tide
With the tuxedo panache of the Oscars still fresh in my memory, I appreciate brand founder Jerome Burgert describing this new Serica 5303 diver’s watch as being adept at transitioning “from the wetsuit to the three-piece suit”. In defiance of Luke Benedictus’ story on the need for slim dress watches when suiting up, I sometimes … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Serica 5303, a time-travelling tool watch with a French twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Eschewing the pretence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard is an elegant take on military vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With my one year anniversary with the Time+Tide team on the horizon, the only drawback has been that the pandemic inhibited all the in-person interaction I really craved. What I love about the watch community is being able to meet up, whether with members of the industry or #watchfam community, and nerd out for hours … ContinuedThe post Tasting Notes: Going hands-on with the 2021 Audemars Piguet collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The world was an immeasurably different place 90 years ago. There were no computers, no mobile phones, no smart watches and no internet. The stockmarket crash of 1929 was still being felt around the world, the Star Spangled Banner was selected as the US national anthem and the Art Deco icon of the Empire State … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on how the Reverso became an icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution looks back at the factors that have shaped the unique identity of Tudor’s popular sports watch.
Quill & Pad
Back in 1988, Chronoswiss was the first brand to bring the regulator display to the wrist. Recently at Watches & Wonders 2021 the company presented several new regulator-style watches in a variety of stunning colors and techniques. Anders Modig shares five of his favorites here.
Time+Tide
We’re BACK with the streetstyle-centric #kixntix, and what better way to celebrate some of the sharpest watches to come out of Watches & Wonders than with some fresh Nikes? This time I’m enamoured by the cutting-edge engineering of the new Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum collection. Powered by the tour de force 9004 movement – the … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: Pairing up the dazzling Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum with a fresh blue Nike Air drop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the most interesting new releases from Montblanc at Watches & Wonders 2021 is the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon, a technically impressive movement fused with a sparkly aventurine-glass dial. It’s equipped with a larger-than-usual balance wheel positioned above the dial, seemingly suspended but actually part of the tourbillon regulator. Initial thoughts Introduced at SIHH 2018, the Suspended Exo Tourbillon movement was most recently seen in an open-worked variant unveiled last year. Despite not being new in terms of mechanics, the new Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is different enough from its predecessors – and still powered by the same fine movement. Very much living up to the Star Legacy model name, the aventurine-glass is restrained and modern, especially when combined with the white gold case, giving it a different look from the earlier models that were in rose gold. Typical of Montblanc’s higher-end watches made at the former Minerva manufacture in Villeret – as opposed to its more affordable timepieces, manufactured at the main facility in Le Locle – the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is remarkably well-finished. Worlds apart from Montblanc’s entry-level tourbillon in terms of movement decoration, the movement is also more traditionally finished than comparably priced alternatives such as the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon. However, because the movement was derived from the pocket watch calibres developed by M...
SJX Watches
Just as the new Octa Automatique is slated to join the catalogue, F.P. Journe is marking the 20th anniversary of the model with the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary. The 99-piece limited edition harks back to the original Octa Réserve de Marche of 2001, then the brand’s entry-level watch. Like the 2001 original, the 20th anniversary edition has a grained, yellow gold dial with a silver sub-dial. And more notably, it is powered by the cal. 1300.3 – but with the bridges and main plate in rhodium-plated brass, just as it was on the original. One of the original Octa Reserve prototypes The prototype movement Initial thoughts The Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary is modestly novel, but will appeal strongly given how it revokes the first-generation model. Given the current outsized desirability of F.P. Journe’s early watches with brass movements, this will be a hot watch. Nips and tucks Though seemingly identical to the original model, the new Octa Automatique is subtly different in terms of design, and substantially different in movement construction. The displays have been rearranged and enlarged to suit the predominately larger case sizes offered by F.P. Journe today. While the original was 38 mm, the standard sizes are now 40 mm and 42 mm. As a result, the date display is slightly larger than before, while the hour numerals are also bigger. Because the date has grown in size, the power reserve display now sits marginally lower than where it used to be. A subtle detai...
Time+Tide
To say Zenith are having a good year in 2021 would be a dramatic understatement. Somehow, a brand that is widely recognised as being great / awesome / pivotal, but that still lives on the fringes, has stepped into the spotlight – and stayed there. First, there was the Chronomaster Sport. This is a watch … ContinuedThe post The top 5 Zenith watches of 2021, the brand’s best year in decades (already) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tudor’s first-ever solid-gold dive watch is making its debut at Watches & Wonders 2021. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K has a case in 18k yellow gold – in a sleek, brushed finish – along with a gold-flecked green dial. (And the Fifty-Eight 18k is launching alongside the more affordable Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 with a sterling silver case.) And despite being ultra-luxe for Tudor, the Fifty-Eight 18k is very much like the rest of Tudor’s offerings in being a value proposition, with a retail price of a bit over US$18,000 – a solid deal for a solid-gold dive watch. Initial Thoughts If there is one thing this year’s Watches & Wonders has made abundantly clear, it is that green is the new flavour of the day. The Fifty-Eight 18K is one of many green watches being launched – but doubtlessly the best value proposition – and Tudor opted for a dark, rich green that complements the case metal. Stylistically, the new Fifty-Eight models are polar opposites. The sterling-silver 925 is reserved and subtle, while the 18K clearly has greater visual impact. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K comes with two straps: alligator leather and fabric The Fifty-Eight 18k is expensive for a Tudor, with a retail price of US$18,340. That’s over US$15,000 more than last year’s navy blue version in steel. But – and this is a big but – when compared with the precious-metal dive watches made by practically every other brand, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is a bargain in relative te...
SJX Watches
Before bronze became the modish material for dive watches, Panerai got there first with the Bronzo PAM 382 in 2011. Since then, there have been multiple iterations of the Bronzo – which had a 47 mm case – with the latest being the PAM 968 introduced two years ago. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Panerai unveils a smaller, 42 mm Bronzo, the Submersible Bronze Blue Abisso PAM01074. Initial thoughts If the new Bronzo looks familiar, that’s because the bronze-and-blue guise has been done before with the Bronzo PAM 671 of 2017. But there’s a significant difference: the smaller form factor of the new PAM 1074, which is eminently more wearable at 42 mm. It’s still a sizeable watch, but by Panerai standards, the PAM 1074 is a small watch. Not only does that make it more appealing as an everyday watch, the smaller size also makes it a practical option for female watch enthusiasts. Despite the reduced size, the watch is distinctly Panerai in style. And the bronze and blue combination remains striking. The beige Super-Luminova and oxidised bronze will give the watch a well-worn look that is thematically congruent with the Submersible’s status as the brand’s “tool” watch. And though it complements the bronze case, the heavy dose of faux patina may prove divisive, especially those who prefer a clean, white lume. At US$15,900, the latest Bronzo is priced at the mid-range of Panerai’s offerings, and is fair value as far as Panerai watches go. In fact, it’s slightly ...
SJX Watches
Just in time for the 50th anniversary of the Explorer II, Rolex is revamping both Explorer models, with the larger Explorer II getting a modest facelift and a new movement. But the Explorer gets a more wide-ranging makeover. The time-only watch retains its utilitarian good looks, keeping its distinctive dial with numerals at the quarters and an arrow at 12 o’clock. But the Explorer is now 36 mm, just as it was back in 1953 and down from the 39 mm of the outgoing model. More notably, the new Explorer will be available in Rolesor – two-tone steel and gold – for the very first time. Both versions of the new Explorer – the ref. 124270 in steel and ref. 124273 in Rolesor – are powered by the cal. 3230, a latest-generation, time-only movement. Initial thoughts Following the mantra of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, Rolex sticks to incremental improvements, slowly but substantially improving its watches over time. The Explorer was last given a gentle facelift in 2016, and it was truly gentle: the hands were lengthened to better match the 39 mm case, while the quarter-hour markers were filled with luminous paint. The Explorer The new Explorer is a product of this philosophy, delivering more in a more compact package. Though the case is 36 mm, the movement boast all of the brand’s latest innovations, while the dial also features a reformulated Chromalight luminous paint that glows for longer in the dark. At the same time, it is interesting that Rolex sh...
Time+Tide
Too often in watchmaking the focus is only on the technical and the very expensive. Yes, it’s critical for the watch industry to continue to innovate, but complication for its own sake serves a very limited number of ends. Sometimes I wish there were more watches that just focused on being fun, lighthearted and affordable, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must presents a statement piece with a blast of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Tudor continues to celebrate 50 years of its Chronograph this year with a reworked Black Bay Chrono Steel in a new dial design and bezel style that harks back to the brands Big Block era.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in 2014. Still the most complicated Lange 1 in the line up, the watch combined an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a discreet tourbillon only visible on the back side. Fast forward seven years later, Lange finally unveils a simplified version – but still a complicated watch – the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, now without the tourbillon. Two variants are available: in pink gold with a grey dial, or in white gold with a solid pink gold dial. Initial thoughts At a glance, one can be forgiven for thinking this is another version of the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon. It is, however, a completely new model that distills the design to focus on a fascinating perpetual calendar, without the added complexity and cost of a tourbillon. In typical Lange style, there were no shortcuts taken: the watch is powered by a new(ish) movement, rather than the same calibre minus the tourbillon. The removal of the tourbillon makes it more accessible, but the new watch is still a hefty €98,000 with the grey dial (and a bit more for the pink gold). At the same time, it might dilute the status of the pricier, flagship tourbillon variant. Nevertheless, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar is intrinsically an exemplary perpetual calendar – in both construction and design – especially the pink gold dial (or “salmon”) being a trendy colour that would likely be the more popular choice. An upgraded moonphase ...
SJX Watches
When A. Lange & Söhne first introduced the Triple Split in 2018, it was an incremental improvement over the Double Split but still a landmark, being the first watch capable of recording twin elapsed times of up to 12 hours. Lange remains the only watchmaker to offer a split-seconds chronograph of this magnitude. And now at Watches & Wonders 2021 it is unveiling the Triple Split in a new guise of pink gold and a blue dial. Initial thoughts Interestingly, Watches & Wonders 2021 marks the first major watch fair where Lange has not introduced any new timepieces with either a silver or black dial. Instead, the new Lange models all feature bold dial colours that break away from tradition – and I’m all for it. The new Triple Split is a merely facelift of the original, which had a dark grey dial and white gold case that gave it an austere characteristic of Lange. In contrast, the new model sheds its predecessor’s sternness with the rich combination of a blue dial and pink gold case, allowing it to come across as significantly more contemporary. I really like the new look. It’s eminently striking, while also being intriguing as it’s an unusual colour combination for Lange, which typically makes its watches with either silver or black dials. I particularly like the rhodium-coloured sub-dials, that contrast distinctly against the blue dial. Regardless of colour, the Triple Split is a magnificently complicated watch, one of the most complicated that Lange produces. Arguab...
Time+Tide
There’s no shortage of icons in the realm of pilot watches with aviation forming a key part of human achievement over the last century. There is arguably no stronger example of watches being used as indispensable tools, a notion which is increasingly romanticised as the humble watch becomes more of a style accessory over the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki X-Wind collection takes flight with striking camouflage dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When people think back to the beginning of smartwatches, they invariably think of the first Apple Watch back in 2015, but what isn’t well known is that TAG Heuer released their first Connected watch in the very same year. Yep, TAG Heuer have had skin in the smartwatch game for almost as long as anyone, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer doubles down on smartwatch tech with the 2021 TAG Heuer Connected collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Gerald Genta-inspired? Perhaps, but still very much its own style and formal elegance. The Batavi Architect is the latest upcoming release from the Dutch microbrand behind the popping fresh Kosmopoliet GMT, a colourful take on a vintage skin diver with a GMT function. This time the influence is from the laid-back cool of the 70s, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Is the Batavi Architect the sharpest microbrand take on the integrated bracelet sports watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Iridium Torpedo arrives to offer a different take on the budget-friendly dive watch with monster specifications for minimum spending. With looks that stray closer to glamour than “tool watch”, it doesn’t shy away from being highly capable and seriously tough. The Torpedo is available with a black, blue, grey, or green dial, and the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Iridium Torpedo is a budget-friendly dive watch with monster specs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Polarising did you say? Well, this is like nothing else, I’m back and forth between love and, well, indifference is not a word. Right now, I’m very much in the LOVE camp, and still trying to work out what the hell the KITH for G-Shock GM-6900 Rainbow looks like. A burnished heat shield from a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The knockout dazzle of the KITH for G-Shock GM-6900 Rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
To maximize his chances of being invited to exhibit with the AHCI at Baselworld 2019, independent Czech watchmaker Ludek Seryn felt he had to come up with something really outstanding: a watch that would bring him attention from both his fellow independent watchmakers and watch aficionados. With his creative Karel Rotation, it looks like he did just that.
SJX Watches
Inspired by a mid-century gentleman’s watches, the Trésor is a newish sub-collection of Omega’s longstanding De Ville line. Just announced alongside the new Seamaster 300, the latest addition to the range is the De Ville Trésor Small Seconds, the most pared-back version to date. Also new is the slightly more complicated, but equally elegant, De Ville Trésor Power Reserve. Tresor Small Seconds (left) in Sedna gold, and Tresor Power Reserve in yellow gold Initial thoughts The new Trésor is unique in Omega’s catalogue for its movement and dial. It’s one of the very few Omega watches without a rotor, with the other more famous model that’s also hand wind being the Speedmaster Moonwatch. The manual-wind movement is apt, feeling at home on a dress watch and well suited for its vintage-inspired style of the Trésor. The cal. 8927 in the Small Seconds The new models illustrate the improving design of the Trésor line up, at least for watch enthusiasts who appreciate traditional design. The model range started with a format familiar for Omega – centre seconds and the date at six – but the new Trésor is focused, with all superfluous functions removed. Also gone is the patterned dial, giving the watch a cleaner appearance. With its simpler aesthetic, the new models gain a stronger identity, differentiating the Trésor from the rest of the catalogue, and even its fellow De Ville watches. Though the new design is progress, it’s still not perfect, yet. The desig...
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