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Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement

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Orion Watches Founder Nick Harris on Growing His Brand Through Adversity Worn & Wound
Seiko modder Dec 15, 2025

Orion Watches Founder Nick Harris on Growing His Brand Through Adversity

I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that most of you reading this right now won’t know the name Nick Harris. Don’t worry, I’m not calling anyone out; if you weren’t a dedicated Seiko modder on the right forums at the right times, it’s not a name you’re likely to have come across. Nick, despite being an accomplished watchmaker and avid enthusiast, just isn’t as well-known as the brand he created, Orion Watches. It’s not a huge surprise. As enthusiasts, we tend to have a better memory for brands and watches than we do for people (how many of us have pulled some variation of the classic, “I can’t remember his name, but he had that great vintage Sub”), and that tendency easily extends to brands, even small ones. It’s easy to forget that many of the brands we talk about on Worn & Wound, and so many of the watchmakers that get us excited, aren’t really “brands” in the typical sense. Many of our favorite brands aren’t machines operating with marketing departments, state-of-the-art production facilities, and overflowing C-Suites. What we broadly call “brands’ are usually the result of the passionate work of one, or maybe two, dedicated creators, their brand names and logos serving more as a personal maker’s mark than as an identifier for a sprawling and impersonal corporate structure. The consequence here is that it can be easy to conflate these small one-man shops with their more established brethren. That can make it particularly diffi...

A New Twist on the Ocean Inspired Dive Watch LE from Zenith and Topper Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko dial textures – it’s Dec 15, 2025

A New Twist on the Ocean Inspired Dive Watch LE from Zenith and Topper

The last few weeks of the year are usually pretty quiet on the new release front, but there have been a handful of last minute limited editions come across the wires recently that are definitely of at least some interest. We just brought you news of a new Doxa LE from our friends at Topper Jewelers in Burlingame, CA, and in what amounts to an insanely quick turnaround, they’re back again with what surely has to be their final release of the year, a new collaboration with Zenith. This watch does one of my favorite things a watch can do, which is to completely hide its coolest feature most of the time, only allowing it to be visible under very specific conditions. It’s the same reason I love the less obvious and more subtle Grand Seiko dial textures – it’s the watch equivalent of a secret handshake.  The Defy Extreme Diver Topper Edition is built on Zenith’s contemporary diver platform, an overengineered, 600 meter diver in the Defy line. Zenith has done a nice job of building out their diver selections in the last year or so, almost to the point where it’s hard to believe that they went so long without a true diver in the collection. At the moment,  enthusiasts have the choice between the Defy Extreme Diver like the one seen here, or an only slightly more sedate “Revival” diver that’s essentially a one to one recreation of a vintage reference. The shared DNA between the two is obvious, and the way Zenith has positioned these watches within their own cata...

Precious Pocket Watches at Sotheby’s, Including a US$7.7 Million AP SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet dubbed “Grosse Pièce” Dec 8, 2025

Precious Pocket Watches at Sotheby’s, Including a US$7.7 Million AP

Pocket watches were the main driver of value at Sotheby’s New York auction that just concluded today. The four most valuable lots of the sale were three pocket watches and one clock, totalling over US$16 million with fees. Notably, all four were accrued by the late Robert M. Olmsted over more than six decades, along with numerous other pocket watches in the sale. In all the Olmsted Collection brought over US$20 million, underling the late Olmsted’s discerning eye. The top lot was the most complicated watch ever made by Audemars Piguet, dubbed “Grosse Pièce” for its size. The oversized watch set a record for the brand, selling for just over US$7.7 million including fees. It seemed a rising tide lifted all boats as many other pocket watches in the sale, including those from brands with little cachet today, blew past their high estimates. The big results included a 1930s school watch with a flying tourbillon by German watchmaker Heinz Eberhard that sold for US$355,600 and an oversized tourbillon clockwatch by Charles Frodsham that sold for US$1.12 million. Interestingly, many of these pocket watches went to the same paddle. Patek Philippe The “Grosse Pièce” wasn’t the first timepiece in the sale to clear seven figures. That distinction went to lot 32, a previously unknown Patek Philippe paperweight desk clock made for Thomas Emery, which sold for US$2.73 million. It is one of only three known Patek Philippe desk clocks of this type, with the other two – made...

Nomos Caps off a Big 2025 with a New Pair of Limited Edition Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimers Worn & Wound
Nomos Caps off Dec 8, 2025

Nomos Caps off a Big 2025 with a New Pair of Limited Edition Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimers

It’s possible that 2025 might wind up being remembered as the year Nomos got its groove back. Of course, you’d have to argue that they ever lost it in the first place for that to be true, and I don’t know I’d quite go that far. But there’s no denying that they had their first true breakout watch in a very long time in 2025. The Club Sport Worldtimer, which debuted in April at Watches & Wonders, is almost certainly going to end up on a range of “Best of the Year” lists as December marches forward, and I can say without any hyperbole that it’s one of the top two or three watches from this year that I’m asked about by readers and collectors in the community. The fact that the limited editions that were part of the initial launch sold out so quickly is proof that the watch is resonating with enthusiasts.  Nomos added a trio of additional limited editions to the range back in October, and now, just in time for the holidays, they’ve added two more. Like that earlier set, the new Reverie and Roam models play on a similar theme. In this case, it’s the versatility of the classic champagne dial. The Reverie has a champagne dial base and is matched primarily with yellow accents (the outer cities ring, and within the 24 hour subdial). The complementary shades play well with each other, and the watch has a distinctly classic aesthetic. Nomos doesn’t really do “vintage inspired” but these tones make me think of old Datejusts and the types of watches you migh...

Francis Ford Coppola’s F.P. Journe FFC Breaks US$10 Million SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Breaks US$10 Million Dec 6, 2025

Francis Ford Coppola’s F.P. Journe FFC Breaks US$10 Million

Francis Ford Coppola’s personal F.P. Journe FFC prototype shattered expectations at Phillips’ New York watch auction today when it achieved price of US$10.8 million including fees. One of the most talked-about lots this auction season, FFC’s FFC is the most expensive watch sold in 2025, and now the most valuable example of independent watchmaking by some margin. Big result in the Big Apple Despite chilly weather in New York, the action in the saleroom quickly turned hot. Auctioneer Aurel Bacs opened at US$1 million, but the bid instantly jumped to US$2 million. Several bidders then piled on, but the contest condensed to just four phone bidders past the US$4 million mark, including bidders represented by Tadzio Nuno and Paul Boutros, of Phillips’ Geneva and New York offices respectively. The action then settled into a head-to-head between bidders represented by Alex Ghotbi and Isabella Proia, once again of Geneva and New York respectively. Mr Ghotbi emerged the winner with a US$9 million bid, which brought the total to US$10.755 million with fees. The bidding was notable for being entirely on the phone – though one bidder was in the room but bidding on the phone – and also for being driven by clients outside of Asia. A record The result makes Mr Coppola’s prototype - one of only two made, and the only one in private hands - the most valuable wristwatch from an independent watchmaker ever sold at auction, exceeding the US$8.36 million achieved by the landm...

Photo Report: A Golden Evening With Breitling Fratello
Breitling Breitling introduced numerous new Dec 6, 2025

Photo Report: A Golden Evening With Breitling

Breitling introduced numerous new models this year, including several in precious metals. On Friday, November 28th, Fratello and Breitling hosted an evening at the brand’s boutique in The Hague to ensure our readers could go hands-on with these new watches. A golden evening with Breitling The evening started with a word of welcome and an […] Visit Photo Report: A Golden Evening With Breitling to read the full article.

Most Popular Rolex Watches: The Models That Take The Crown Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Dec 5, 2025

Most Popular Rolex Watches: The Models That Take The Crown

If you’ve somehow made it this far in life without hearing the name Rolex, congratulations. You may be the last living human to do so. Rolex sits at the very center of the horological universe. The brand is so vast and culturally omnipresent that calling it “successful” is a little like describing the Louvre as “a building with some pretty paintings in it” - technically correct but hopelessly inadequate. Here we will take a look at some of the most popular Rolex watch models, spanning the current production catalog as well as past models with staying power. Though we have seen the demand for luxury watches rise, dip, and plateau over the last few years, the desirability to own a Rolex watch remains exceptionally high. Factors such as scarcity, brand provenance, and consistent appreciation in the resale market drive this remarkable demand. All of these influences are compounded by waitlists, which have elevated desire into near-mythic obsession. However, if you’re entirely new to Rolex, consider this your gentle initiation. In fact, even if you own several Rolex watches and want to learn more about the brand and its most popular references, this deep dive is going to provide you with more information than many people will acquire in a lifetime. First, let’s kick things off with a historical overview of this timekeeping titan.  [toc-section heading="Crown and Legacy: A Brief History of Rolex"] It might surprise you to learn that Rolex’s history didn’t j...

Interview – Dr. Andreas Kaufmann on How Leica Blends its Photographic DNA with German Watchmaking Monochrome
Dec 5, 2025

Interview – Dr. Andreas Kaufmann on How Leica Blends its Photographic DNA with German Watchmaking

Dubai Watch Week is a remarkable platform for engaging with influential figures, and this year’s edition offered us the chance to sit down with two of Leica’s key leaders. Together, we explored the past, present, and future of one of Germany’s most storied manufacturers – an icon in photography renowned for its precision engineering, craftsmanship, […]

Owner’s Perspective: Seiko 5 Sports SKX SRPL87K In The Vibrant Yellow Dial WatchAdvice
Seiko 5 Sports SKX SRPL87K Dec 5, 2025

Owner’s Perspective: Seiko 5 Sports SKX SRPL87K In The Vibrant Yellow Dial

A bright yellow Seiko that reminds you that watches are meant to be fun. They don’t all have to be technical and serious, just pure enjoyment on the wrist! This is my story with the SRPL87K. What We Love The mango-yellow dial brings instant personality and fun to any outfit. It’s an easy grab-and-go mechanical watch you never have to think twice about. The 5-link bracelet upgrade elevates the whole look far more than expected. What We Don’t The lume is good, but not as strong as some other Seiko models. 100m water resistance is fine, but 200m would’ve felt closer to classic SKX DNA. No bracelet option for the yellow dial out of the box — a missed opportunity given how good it looks on one. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 There’s something about Seiko’s SKX range that leaves an impression on you. Even if you never owned the original model, the SKX collection of modern is the entry-level diver and the perfect canvas for those who love to mod their timepieces. It is the watch that turned a lot of casual wearers into full enthusiasts! While Seiko may have closed the chapter on the original SKX line many years ago, the spirit of the collection certainly didn’t disappear. There have been many modern iterations in Seiko’s current collections that have been inspired by SKX models of the past, each carrying hints of the familiar dive watch DNA: the practicality, the simplicity, everyday toughnes...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Dec 4, 2025

[VIDEO] Enthusiast Spotlight: Suguru H. Nishioka’s Moto Camping Trip with Shinzo Tamura

Every so often, we meet someone whose connection to the gear they carry runs deeper than specs and materials-someone who treats objects as quiet collaborators in how they move through the world. Suguru H. Nishioka, a.k.a. @garactacle, is one of those people. A photographer, motorcyclist, camper, and thoughtful observer of the everyday, Suguru brings an intentionality to his tools that feels both personal and instantly relatable. For this edition of Enthusiast Spotlight, we brought Shinzo Tamura and their polarized sunglasses to Suguru for his first impressions and a real-world look at their approach to eyewear. What followed was a conversation about the “companions” he carries-on the road, on foot, and in the in-between moments that define a day. From finding calm inside high-focus activities to appreciating the unseen people behind the tools he trusts, Suguru reminds us why we fall in love with gear in the first place. The post [VIDEO] Enthusiast Spotlight: Suguru H. Nishioka’s Moto Camping Trip with Shinzo Tamura appeared first on Worn & Wound.

WU25 Panel: Horage and the Revolution of Regulating Mechanical Watches Worn & Wound
Omega Dec 4, 2025

WU25 Panel: Horage and the Revolution of Regulating Mechanical Watches

The last, but certainly not least, panel of Windup Watch Fair 2025 features Andi Felsl and David Sharp, CEO and COO of Horage. The two discuss the remarkable story of how Horage’s breakthrough in the world of mechanical regulation. It’s called MicroReg, and Horage believes it is a game-changer. Hear (or read) all about it, including an audience Q&A;, below. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Zach Kazan Hello everyone, welcome to the final panel of Wind-Up Watch Fair New York City 2025. This panel is sponsored by Horage, and I’m pleased to be joined by Andi Felsl, CEO of Horage, and David Sharp, COO of Horage. It’s a pleasure to have you both here. We’re going to be talking about Micro-Reg, a fascinating new technology developed by Horage-potentially game-changing in the watchmaking space. Andi, can you start by explaining what Micro-Reg is in layman’s terms, and how the idea came about? Andi Felsl Thank you for having us-it’s a pleasure to be the last panel of the fair. The idea dates back about ten years, when we were preparing for volume manufacturing of our first movement, the K1. At the end of assembly, I realized regulation was going to be a cost issue. Regulation is a costly exercise because it requires precision, and we don’t have the production volume of Rolex or Omega. We needed a different way. I wondered: could we regulate the watch from the outside, while it’s being worn? Regulation has been a big is...

The Owl is an Ambitious Debut from L’Atelier Bernard SJX Watches
Dec 3, 2025

The Owl is an Ambitious Debut from L’Atelier Bernard

Independent watchmaking continues to draw enthusiasm from collectors, particularly as a new generation of creators begins to establish its voice. New brands are springing up to cater to that demand, and one of the most interesting recent debuts is The Owl by L’Atelier Bernard, a sold-out six-piece limited edition that blends unconventional aesthetics with equally unconventional mechanics. Handcrafted in Fleurier by the young duo Bernard Van Ormelingen and Bernard Braboretz, the watch showcases now familiar elements of artisanal finishing and inverted-movement architecture, along with something rarely seen, a duplex escapement, which makes The Owl a more distinctive entry in the crowded field of emerging independents. Initial thoughts The Owl is handcrafted by a pair of young and talented watchmakers, the Bernards who gave their name to the brand. Clearly a show of their shared aesthetic sensibilities and technical chops, the Owl is meant to kickstart the independent creators’ artisanal venture in Fleurier. One of the Bernards is not new to independent watchmaking; those who closely follow independent watchmaking might remember Mr Van Ormelingen’s name from Van Bricht, a now-defunct brand for which he produced guilloche dials. The Owl is unexpected and intriguing on several fronts. Its aesthetics, mechanics, decoration, and layout seem almost at odds with one another, yet the result is a distinctly artisanal object. There is no conventional dial; instead, the watch pr...

First Look – The New Zenith Defy Extreme Chroma Editions Monochrome
Zenith Defy Extreme Chroma Editions Dec 2, 2025

First Look – The New Zenith Defy Extreme Chroma Editions

Zenith continues to evolve its high-frequency El Primero chronograph platform with two new references that combine the brand’s core technical identity with a sharper, more architectural use of colour. The Defy Extreme Chroma Limited Editions mark the next phase of the Chroma concept, introduced in 2022 with the Defy 21 Chroma and followed by the […]

Insight: Shaping the Rolex Identity with a Century of Strategic Positioning SJX Watches
Rolex Identity Dec 2, 2025

Insight: Shaping the Rolex Identity with a Century of Strategic Positioning

The marketing history of Rolex shows a brand building its public face step by step through symbols, carefully chosen moments, and tightly controlled messages. From its beginnings in 1905, Rolex shaped a clear, recognisable image, with a strong emphasis on visibility, control and consistency. The company spent real effort defining what the name Rolex should evoke and how that image would appear in print, in shop windows and on people’s wrists. Where many watchmakers leaned on language around heritage and handcraft, Rolex developed a communication style rooted in achievement, trust and broad recognition. The brand favoured association: with pilots, swimmers, climbers, tennis players, orchestras, laboratories and prize-giving institutions. Sponsorships, endorsements and even model names formed a linked pattern, presenting the Rolex watch as the natural companion of records, frontiers and public success. Hans Wilsdorf, the founder, treated promotion and product as parts of the same task. He saw that a claim about performance gained weight when tied to a visible test or public event, and that reputation could grow through displays of endurance, accuracy and elegance under pressure. The waterproof Oyster case, observatory trials, Channel swims, aviation flights and Himalayan expeditions all served as stages on which the watch and the story moved together. Across the decades this approach produced one of the most coherent brand stories in modern watchmaking. Through long-standi...

Vyntage Horology Debuts the Sleek and Sophisticated Strata SJX Watches
Dec 1, 2025

Vyntage Horology Debuts the Sleek and Sophisticated Strata

One of the surprises of Dubai Watch Week was the chance to go hands-on with the Strata, the latest watch from Vyntage Horology. Slim, lightweight, and water-resistant to 100 m, the Strata nods to the cushion-case designs of the 1970s without reviving any specific model, instead pairing a radiant burgundy dial with a silky grade 5 titanium case and bracelet for a look that feels contemporary rather than nostalgic. Vyntage itself was conceived by Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi, chief executive of Ahmed Seddiqi - the Gulf region’s largest retailer and a pillar of Dubai’s watch scene for 75 years. The brand was created to bring an Emirati sensibility to Swiss watchmaking, and its retailer backing gives it a degree of stability and visibility uncommon among small, typically internet-native marques.    Initial thoughts The Strata is a ‘go anywhere, do anything’ watch par excellence, managing to be both slim and lightweight, while water resistant to 100 m. Despite its name, Vyntage is not in the business of remakes. The Strata nods to 1970-era cushion-case sport watches with integrated bracelets, but it is not a revival of any specific model. Instead, the combination of a rich burgundy dial and a silky titanium case and bracelet gives the watch a contemporary presence that sets it apart from conventional retro-themed offerings. Ahmed Seddiqi, the Gulf region’s largest watch retailer and a fixture in Dubai for 75 years, has long catered to a collector base oriented tow...

Hands-On With The Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar Platinum Fratello
Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar Platinum Today we’ll Nov 30, 2025

Hands-On With The Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar Platinum

Today, we’ll go hands-on with the limited-edition Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar Platinum. It’s a lesson in how a watch’s appearance can change drastically with a different dial and color scheme. As the name suggests, the watch is also crafted from one of my favorite stealthy precious metals. It’s hard not to enjoy Glashütte Original’s watches. After […] Visit Hands-On With The Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar Platinum to read the full article.

Hands-On: The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium LE Chronometer Fratello
Nov 28, 2025

Hands-On: The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium LE Chronometer

Today, we’ll go hands-on with the latest Brellum release. The Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium LE Chronometer builds upon this month’s earlier introduction of a similar model in steel. Considering that this is the brand’s most feature-laden watch, it’s worth taking a closer look. With such small production runs, Brellum maintains an aggressive release schedule. […] Visit Hands-On: The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium LE Chronometer to read the full article.

Introducing the Heinrich Radiance Guilloche Worn & Wound
Nomos Nov 27, 2025

Introducing the Heinrich Radiance Guilloche

If you do this job for any significant length of time (or, honestly, even an insignificant length of time) you’re almost certainly going to be asked about great brands that fly under the radar. Because there are always brands that do great work but for whatever reason don’t catch fire and become viral sensations in the broader watch world. This is a question that we literally get on just about every Q&A; podcast in one form or another. And I’m not saying listeners and readers should stop asking. On the contrary, we love talking about brands that don’t always get the credit they deserve and perhaps exposing them to a broader audience. But because of the nature of the industry, which whether we like it or not runs on a certain amount of hype, I sometimes feel stumped when it comes time to provide an actual answer. Heinrich is one of those brands that should just be a stock answer when this comes up. The German brand consistently produces some of the most interesting, accessible watches of their type. And if you’ve had a chance to handle any of their watches over the years, you know that they’re made to a very high standard in terms of their machining and finishing. Their watches do a great job of embodying that high grade, German quality that many people inherently associate with watches coming out of that country, particularly at more accessible price points. It’s the reason brands like Sinn, Nomos, and others have always been darlings of the forums – there...

Hands-On With The Steel Midsize Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds - A Surprisingly Unsurprising Novelty Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Nov 27, 2025

Hands-On With The Steel Midsize Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds - A Surprisingly Unsurprising Novelty

Take a good look at the steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds in the pictures. What do you see? Exactly - a watch you didn’t think was a novelty. But it is. This medium-sized Reverso has all the trademarks of a traditional Reverso, along with a couple of updated tweaks. We go hands-on to […] Visit Hands-On With The Steel Midsize Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds - A Surprisingly Unsurprising Novelty to read the full article.

Top 10 Sports Watch Brands For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 24, 2025

Top 10 Sports Watch Brands For Every Budget

So much of watchmaking history surrounds brands competing to make pieces for just about every hobby, sport, and lifestyle out there, competing for market share through a rigorous pursuit of innovation. All of that healthy competition (which, really, continues into the current landscape of watchmaking) has led to a truly astounding number of options when it comes to choosing even a brand to go with for a reliable sports watch, let alone a singular watch out of the seemingly endless amount of options available. It’s choice paralysis at its finest.  For anyone just dipping their toes into the wild world of watches, today, I’m making a quick and fast guide to what I believe to be the top 10 sports watch brands that have the most solid lineup of options on the market today. It wasn’t easy, narrowing the playing field, but I gave it my best. The term “sports watch” is kind of a tricky one in and of itself – are we talking purely about integrated-bracelet sports watches? Watches made for diving? Chronographs? Just an everyday-carry that is robust enough to stand up to some moderate activity? For the purposes of this article, I’m going to rock with all of the above, and also touch upon a bit of the history the brands bring to the table that are significant to the overarching theme of sports watches. And, because choosing just the top ten sports watch brands felt creatively limiting, I’ve actually thrown in a few more as an added bonus.  [toc-section heading="Unde...

First Look – The New Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon in Rose Gold Monochrome
Vanguart Nov 22, 2025

First Look – The New Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon in Rose Gold

Independent watchmaking loves a good origin story, and Vanguart has got one. Founded in 2017 by APRP alumni Axel Leuenberger and Jérémy Freléchox, designer Thierry Fischer and F1-insider Mehmet Korutürk, the brand debuted with the Black Hole Tourbillon in 2021. That first watch featured a levitating flying tourbillon, concentric automaton discs that warp time around […]

News – The 6th and Last Konstantin Chaykin White Rabbit Watch to be Auctioned by Ineichen Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin Nov 20, 2025

News – The 6th and Last Konstantin Chaykin White Rabbit Watch to be Auctioned by Ineichen

Announced in 2023, the Konstantin Chaykin White Rabbit Watch is an exceptional complication watch inspired by the enchanting world of Alice in Wonderland. Featuring no fewer than 16 complications, it takes the form of a reversible, transformable case (pocket watch to wristwatch and vice versa). This complicated and poetic “wristmon” was released in a limited […]

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Nov 20, 2025

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite

With its streamlined case, flexible integrated bracelet and sensual contours, H. Moser & Cie.’s sleek Streamliner luxury sports watch continues its journey onwards, and in this case upwards, with no signs of losing steam. Coinciding with Dubai Watch Week 2025, Moser unveils the new Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite, a hyper-accurate moon phase complication framed […]