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This collector has a different Omega Speedmaster for every day of the year, and has even made ‘Speedy Suspenders’… Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Nov 29, 2020

This collector has a different Omega Speedmaster for every day of the year, and has even made ‘Speedy Suspenders’…

Editor’s note: This is a story that focuses on two things, being the collection and story of the man that almost certainly owns more Speedmasters than any other collector on earth, Mr Bhaskar Eswaran. It also leads into a description of the new Omega Authentication service for watches more than 30 years old. I am … ContinuedThe post This collector has a different Omega Speedmaster for every day of the year, and has even made ‘Speedy Suspenders’… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Nov 26, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition

Watch consumers are always looking for a fresh new face to add to their wrists and collections. The irony, however, is we also tend to flock to familiar designs – references we believe are iconic. So how do we solve this problem? As per usual, Bamford has the answer. The Bamford Watch Department is known … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet MC12 one Nov 23, 2020

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Taking place on Sunday, November 29, Phillips’ Hong Kong auction spans a wide range, including independent watchmaking, which includes the S.U.F Sarpaneva x Moomin prototype, as well as value buys (including a surprisingly well-priced Grand Lange 1 Luna Mundi). Here’s a look at a few standouts amongst the complicated watches on offer – particularly watches that might go under the radar. It includes the Patek Philippe ref. 5101R 10-Day Tourbillon powered by an under-appreciated but gorgeous movement inspired by the brand’s observatory chronometers, along with the Audemars Piguet MC12, one of the coolest complications in any shape but an octagon to leave Le Brassus. The auction happens on November 29  at the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, while the catalogue and online bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 850 – Audemars Piguet Millenary MC12 Despite being overwhelmingly famous for its octagonal luxury-sports watch, Audemars Piguet has produced highly-complicated watches in other case styles. Amongst the most interesting is the Millenary C12, a cutting-edge watch when it was launched in 2006 and inspired by the Maserati MC12 supercar (which was based on the Ferrari Enzo). Equipped with a hand-wind chronograph movement with a tourbillon, the MC12 is unusual both mechanically and aesthetically. Most obvious is the oval case with a “bullhead” chronograph layout, with the pushers at one and 11 o’clock, which is usually associated with auto-racing chrono...

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer X Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition is a red rocket for the wrist Time+Tide
TAG Heuer X Grand Prix de Nov 21, 2020

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer X Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition is a red rocket for the wrist

Watch enthusiasts and automotive enthusiasts have a lot in common. It’s not just that the demographics intersect, but there is definitely a link in the appreciation for outstanding feats of engineering. Both can be artistic expressions, with form meeting function, and both can be all-out utilitarian objects with pure performance in mind. The TAG Heuer … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer X Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition is a red rocket for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Nov 20, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon

Combining an unusual variety of complications that nevertheless go well aesthetically, the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is the latest tourbillon wristwatch from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has made something of a speciality in iterating its tourbillon movements with various additional complications. Powered by the newly-developed cal. 983, the new watch features a moon phase, pointer date, and tourbillon regulator. And its case is made of Le Grand rose gold, a fade-resistant gold alloy unveiled only earlier in the year. Initial thoughts The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is a handsome watch executed in the typical Jaeger-LeCoultre style. The design is classical, with a handful of details that refine the look, including the applied hour markers and metal-deposition moon phase scale. And the movement is decorated well, though largely by mechanical methods, and the result is visually appealing. But it is a bit large at 41.5 mm in diameter, and also thick at 12.1 mm high – giving it dimensions similar to a sports chronograph. The cal. 983 in the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon And the retail price of US$88,500 is high. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s strength is haute horlogerie in the middle of the price segment – though it’s been drifting upwards – alongside brands like Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. But both those brands recently launched tourbillons of comparable quality – the Blast and Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon respectively – that cost less. Master To...

HANDS-ON: The Ralph Lauren ‘Negroni Bear’ Polo Bear watch made me want to wear black tie so bad, I did it in my garden Time+Tide
Nov 20, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Ralph Lauren ‘Negroni Bear’ Polo Bear watch made me want to wear black tie so bad, I did it in my garden

With December around the corner, the end-of-year party season should be kicking off around about now, with Christmas drinks and all manner of other festivities. Alas, with the UK still awaiting its COVID fate, any cocktail parties on Bond Street or Mayfair are on ice for now. Indeed, as lockdown ponders its own timeframe, it’s … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Ralph Lauren ‘Negroni Bear’ Polo Bear watch made me want to wear black tie so bad, I did it in my garden appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Value Buys at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin chronograph Nov 20, 2020

Highlights: Value Buys at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Happening at the end of the month, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XI is a 250-lot auction with a diversity of offerings, including a good number of grand complications as well as a full complement of the recently-launched Rolex Oyster Perpetual with candy-coloured dials. But for the enthusiast with more esoteric tastes, the sale also includes a selection of affordable independent watchmaking, as well as value buys from more mainstream brands – here’s a look at a couple of highlights, ranging from a surprisingly well-priced Grand Lange 1 Luna Mundi to a white-and-rose-gold Vacheron Constantin chronograph. The auction happens on November 29  at the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, while the catalogue and online bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 803 – Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Professional 1000 m “Tuna” Gundam Zaku set An anime series about humans doing battle in giant robots, Mobile Suit Gundam is one of the most famed examples of Japanese pop culture, even having a Wikipedia page titled “Cultural impact of Gundam“. Seiko rolled out several limited editions for the 40th anniversary of the franchise last year, including this pair dedicated to the villains of the series, the dome-headed robots known as Zaku. Bulbous and vaguely military in form, the Prospex “Tuna” – arguably the most iconic of Seiko’s many dive watch designs – is surprisingly well matched to the Zaku robots. Resembling a tuna can, the watch case is actually double walled, made ...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Nov 17, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue

Unveiled just earlier this year, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is compelling inside and out – an uncommon, cushion-shaped “bullhead” case with an integrated bracelet, containing the ingenious, well-regarded Agenhor AgenGraphe movement. A limited run of just 100 watches, the launch-edition Streamliner only recently clinched the Chronograph Watch Prize at this year’s Grand Prix de Horlogerie de Geneve, making it the perfect time to launch of the regular-production variant, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue. Initial thoughts Original and appealing in its design, the Streamliner was well-received commercially and critically, making the regular-production version inevitable. Almost identical to the original version, the new version differs only in its dial, which is a metallic blue with a fashionable smoked finish. Notably, the blue dial has a radial, brushed finish, instead of the vertical, linear brushing of the launch edition. While the blue dial is quintessential Moser in colour and style, it isn’t as unique as the pale grey dial on the launch edition – which is a good thing, as it helps differentiate the limited-edition original. That said, the blue dial is attractive – and more striking – with the graduated, fume finish giving it more depth than the typical integrated-bracelet sports watch. The Streamliner chronograph has a price tag of US$43,900 – a sizeable number that’s justifiable because the watch stands out f...

RGM Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel Offers Traditional Timelessness Bridging Past, Present, And Future - Reprise Quill & Pad
RGM Nov 15, 2020

RGM Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel Offers Traditional Timelessness Bridging Past, Present, And Future - Reprise

When brands look to the past to find the absolute best details to combine into a killer timepiece, the result can be a terrific diver, a classy chronograph, or, in the case of American watchmaking company RGM, a fantastic pocket watch-inspired, enamel-dialed wristwatch like the Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel. Joshua Munchow feels this watch stands apart as a culmination of the brand's ideology.

Aussie brand Bausele is the official watchmaker of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary watch, and it’s their best collection yet Time+Tide
Bausele Nov 15, 2020

Aussie brand Bausele is the official watchmaker of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary watch, and it’s their best collection yet

Sydney-based watch brand Bausele has been confirmed to produce two watches with the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) to mark their centenary. The RAAF’s 100th anniversary will be marked by two special watches that contain parts of RAAF aircraft. The last time the RAAF actually commissioned a watch was in the 1940s, when they commissioned … ContinuedThe post Aussie brand Bausele is the official watchmaker of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary watch, and it’s their best collection yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph Nov 14, 2020

#Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens

Hypebeast recently dropped the orange-flavoured candy of the Nike Air Force 1 ’07 LV8 Total Orange, a searchlight-bright version of the iconic trainer. As if the zesty orange wasn’t enough, they have teamed up with 3M for the metallic silver highlights, in an unashamed flash of reflections from the tiniest sliver of sunlight. This is … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaquet Droz Charming Bird Deconstruction By The Naked Watchmaker (Plus Video) - Reprise Quill & Pad
Ming Bird Deconstruction Nov 14, 2020

Jaquet Droz Charming Bird Deconstruction By The Naked Watchmaker (Plus Video) - Reprise

Ian Skellern still remembers the sense of awe he felt when he had the opportunity to watch and listen to a recently restored centuries-old Jaquet Droz singing bird. The animation was compelling, and the quality of the birdsong sound was incredible. But as impressive a feat he thought that full-sized eighteenth-century Jaquet Droz singing bird clock was, shrinking that mechanical technology to wristwatch size is just mind-blowing. As The Naked Watchmaker Peter Speake highlights here.

Our picks of the best Hublot watches of 2020, including some Black Magic, beautiful bracelets and modish millennials Time+Tide
Hublot watches Nov 13, 2020

Our picks of the best Hublot watches of 2020, including some Black Magic, beautiful bracelets and modish millennials

Over the last few years we’ve seen lots of brands turn to their archives as inspiration for new watches. Heritage is very, very popular. But what if you don’t have a century or more of archives to dig through in search of exciting designs? What if your brand was only founded in 1980? For Hublot, … ContinuedThe post Our picks of the best Hublot watches of 2020, including some Black Magic, beautiful bracelets and modish millennials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301P-001 Grande Sonnerie SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Nov 10, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301P-001 Grande Sonnerie

Saving the best for last, Patek Philippe has just announced the Ref. 6301P-001 Grande Sonnerie. Powered by a movement derived from that in the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G uber-complication, the new Grande Sonnerie is impressively complicated – which is why Patek Philippe set up a dedicated workshop for its assembly – yet surprisingly thin. Unlike the Grandmaster Chime that was a multi-complication, the ref. 6301P is a focused mechanical masterpiece: a grande and petite sonnerie, striking the time en passant, or as it passes. But it is also a carillon, striking on three pairs of hammers and gongs, instead of the usual two. All its mechanical accomplishment is dressed in classical style, with an aesthetic reminiscent of the ref. 5370P split-seconds chronograph – a black enamel dial with Breguet numerals and a recessed case band. Initial thoughts With a movement derived from the Calibre 300 found in the Grandmaster Chime, the Grande Sonnerie is almost as large, a necessity due to the size of the movement. At 44.8 mm in diameter, the Grande Sonnerie is a large watch, but it is surprisingly thin at just 12 mm high, which is perhaps unsurprising given Patek Philippe’s traditional inclination towards thin watches. Unlike the brand’s other extra-large grand complications, like the Grandmaster Chime or Sky Moon Tourbillon, the Grande Sonnerie has a more restrained, traditional design. Though imposing, it looks reasonably elegant due to the pared-back styling and subtle ...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Masterpiece Collection Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Nov 10, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Masterpiece Collection Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary

Seiko is gearing up to celebrate two anniversaries in 2021 – 160 years since the birth of its founder as well as the 140th year of the company – and has just announced one watch to mark each occasion, no doubt the first of many commemorative watches. The Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary Limited Edition (ref. SBGZ005) is a remake of the ref. 3180 of 1960 – the first Grand Seiko – but enhanced with a patterned dial and the exceptionally-finished 9R02 Spring Drive movement, and accompanied by an exceptionally-high price tag. Initial thoughts With its design essentially a replica of the first Grand Seiko, the SBGZ005 is a classically handsome watch and perhaps the quintessential Grand Seiko design. Though the overall style remains identical to the vintage original, it’s been dressed up subtly – with a radial, geometric motif on the dial, which also has solid, 14k gold hands and hour markers. All those additions make it look even more appealing without taking away from its original aesthetic. While the look is attractive, Grand Seiko has been remaking the original model too often, and at an accelerating pace. This is the fifth (or even sixth) remake of the Grand Seiko 3180, with the last one having just been launched earlier this year. The proliferation of remakes leaves the 3180 design a little too common for comfort. And then there’s the movement, which is the 9R02 that’s also found in the Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive...

Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology -  which is better value? Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2020

Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology -  which is better value?

Last night saw the Phillips’ and Blackbird thematic auction Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 play out, with some truly incredible watches reaching truly incredible prices. Two that I wanted to focus on were a pair of watches that are at the same time very similar and very different. Both are handmade. Both are three-handed dress watches … ContinuedThe post Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology – which is better value? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Aventurine: Sparkling, Glittering, Mysterious, And Placing A Galaxy Of Stars On Your Wrist - Reprise Quill & Pad
Nov 8, 2020

Aventurine: Sparkling, Glittering, Mysterious, And Placing A Galaxy Of Stars On Your Wrist - Reprise

Aventurine remains a decorative artisanal element used only by luxury watchmakers in small series or unique pieces for its beauty and decorative properties. While there is some public uncertainty about the origin of aventurine, it continues to add mysterious shine and scintillating glamour to watches. Here is the real story behind aventurine: what it really is and where it comes from.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ ‘Retrospective: 2000 - 2020’ SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5970. And Nov 5, 2020

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ ‘Retrospective: 2000 - 2020’

Taking place this weekend as a live auction with only cameras, telephones, and online bidding, Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 is a thematic sale that happens the day after Phillips’ Geneva watch auction. The second sale curated with Blackbird, both the publisher of a watch magazine as well as the agent for Ferrari in Hong Kong, Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 is self explanatory: contemporary wristwatches produced in the past 20 years. The 95 lots that make up the sale are a selection of the important, interesting, and intriguing from the last two decades, including obvious candidates like the Rolex Daytona and Patek Philippe ref. 5970. And the sale also includes notable watches that usually go under the radar, like the Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727 with magnetic balance pivots (which is possibly the most accurate Swiss-made mechanical watch of the 21st century). The Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727 (lot 258) Importantly, the line up also encompasses a diverse selection of independent watchmaking, reflecting the rise of these niche watchmakers. Here’s a roundup of highlights from independent watchmakers, which include the Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary and the ultra-rare Opus Eleven. The selection includes the worthy Seiko Credor Eichi II and Lange 1 25th Anniversary. Neither comes from an independent watchmaker, but both are as close as it gets for establishment brands. Lot 206 – Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary No. 00/20 Philippe Dufour...

Did this couple really just use a six-year-old to steal an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore? Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore? Look Nov 4, 2020

Did this couple really just use a six-year-old to steal an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore?

Look, we get it. Waitlists are frustrating, and watches are commanding higher values and premiums than ever before. But this has to be a new low. A Romanian couple has been caught red-handed, or rose-gold handed, attempting to steal a Royal Oak Offshore in rose gold from Audemars Piguet worth £67,000 GBP from venerated department … ContinuedThe post Did this couple really just use a six-year-old to steal an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.