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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Sport Auto 40, a Personal Take on the Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Laurent Ferrier Aug 31, 2023

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Sport Auto 40, a Personal Take on the Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

There are all kinds of watches that are tied to motorsports. Horology and racing are inextricably linked, and while the Venn Diagram of people who are into watches and into various aspects of car culture and auto racing isn’t exactly a circle, it’s honestly probably not far off. But when it comes to watches that are inspired by motorsport in one way or another, we find varying levels of refinement and authenticity in the products that make it to boutique shelves. It’s easy enough to slap a logo of a car manufacturer on a dial or make a caseback calling attention to a particular race, but it’s more challenging to draw a real connection between these two worlds, even as they’re so closely linked. One of the things that make the watches made by Laurent Ferrier so interesting is that the connection feels real, a natural result of the history of the team that founded the brand. Before he was a world renowned watchmaker, Laurent Ferrier and his partner Francois Servanin were (very accomplished) amateur racers, and the new version of the Sport Auto celebrates that history.  For watch fans who might not be familiar with Laurent Ferrier’s personal history prior to the founding of his eponymous brand, he did indeed make something of a name for himself in the automotive world at the 24 Hours of Le Mans race in 1979. Ferrier and his teammates (including Servanin and Francois Trisconi) placed third in that race out of 60, a surprising result for a group of non-professional...

The new Citizen Black Washi Paper Dial maximises aesthetics and function Time+Tide
Citizen Black Washi Paper Dial Aug 31, 2023

The new Citizen Black Washi Paper Dial maximises aesthetics and function

The new Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial is limited to 350 pieces It sports a 100m water-resistant Duratect Gold Super Titanium case that’s more than five times harder than standard steel Black washi paper dials are sprinkled with gold leaf through Sunago-maki – no two are the same When I personally define the characteristics … ContinuedThe post The new Citizen Black Washi Paper Dial maximises aesthetics and function appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos Time+Tide
HYT Aug 30, 2023

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos

The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a limited edition of 8 pieces Its tourbillon calibre, with a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees, was developed with master watchmaker Eric Coudray Framing the tourbillon, distinctly coloured gems – fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – rotate at different speeds around the dial I am rather comfortable in … ContinuedThe post The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry is the ultimate tribute to silicon Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry Aug 29, 2023

The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry is the ultimate tribute to silicon

Ulysse Nardin do not always get the credit they are due as a watch manufacture. I bet most of you watching this video were not aware that Ulysse Nardin is an independently owned, vertically integrated manufacture – among the rare few who are able to build their watches fully in house. While certainly versed in … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry is the ultimate tribute to silicon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold Blue Moon gets the Neptune treatment Time+Tide
Aug 28, 2023

New MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold Blue Moon gets the Neptune treatment

The new MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold Blue Moon is the first with a gold-plated hand outside of the gray “Moon” case The blue Neptune case has been used to honour the upcoming August 30 blue moon It will be available at a select list of retailers worldwide on August 30 Borna said it perfectly … ContinuedThe post New MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold Blue Moon gets the Neptune treatment appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHAT IF… The quartz crisis never happened? Time+Tide
Aug 28, 2023

WHAT IF… The quartz crisis never happened?

Likely the most significant horological event of the previous century, the quartz crisis (or revolution, depending on which side you stood), not only signalled the beginning of the end for many smaller watch manufactures, but also influenced the way we look at watches to this very day. Quartz is often looked down upon, and incorrectly … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… The quartz crisis never happened? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Adds a Fully Lumed Dial to their Pilot Collection with the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces Worn & Wound
IWC Adds Aug 28, 2023

IWC Adds a Fully Lumed Dial to their Pilot Collection with the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces

Sometimes I get tagged with the label of curmudgeon for my somewhat finicky and at times nonsensical taste in watches (and movies, and other things – I like what I like). But at the end of the day, I really just want watches to be fun, and for everyone to chill just a little bit when it comes to the hottest of takes on Instagram, YouTube, and elsewhere. If there’s one feature on a watch that captures a more nonchalant attitude toward watches in general, I think it has to be the fully lumed dial, right? Is there anything else that appeals so strongly to that proverbial inner child, the one who is still fascinated with things that glow in the dark? Lumed dials have been having a bit of a moment as of late, and now IWC is getting in on the action, with their first pilot’s watch with a fully lumed dial treatment, the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces. The Black Aces is the latest in an ongoing series of watches that IWC has made in partnership with US Navy squadrons as part of their Professional Pilot’s Watches Program. This new watch takes inspiration from a previous watch that IWC created for members of Strike Fighter Squadron 41, also known as the Black Aces. This squadron has roots that date back to 1950, and is based at Naval Air Station Lemoore in California, and their Black Aces patch can be seen on the dial at the 6:00 position of the new pilot’s watch. IWC refers to this as a “Lumicast” dial, and it comes together after a complex process that invol...

New McGonigle Ogma for 2024: No Watch, No Photos, No Sketches, No Launch, But First Editions Already Nearly Sold Out – Welcome To the New Normal Quill & Pad
Aug 25, 2023

New McGonigle Ogma for 2024: No Watch, No Photos, No Sketches, No Launch, But First Editions Already Nearly Sold Out – Welcome To the New Normal

There are no photos (either real or CAD) nor sketches of the McGonigle Ogma, and there’s been no public announcement; however (surprise, surpise!), most of the watches have already been reserved. How times have changed. In the words of Dorothy to her dog in The Wizard of Oz after being sucked up by a tornado, "Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore."

Issue 7 of the NOW Magazine is now available, and so is a little digital treat Time+Tide
IWC ContinuedThe post Issue Aug 25, 2023

Issue 7 of the NOW Magazine is now available, and so is a little digital treat

Though the magazine just about takes the cake for the piece of content that is most difficult to plan and execute, it is also just about one of our favourites. From the features to the Buying Guide, the brand new NOW Magazine Issue 7 is here, this time in resplendent aqua with the new IWC … ContinuedThe post Issue 7 of the NOW Magazine is now available, and so is a little digital treat appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Christopher Ward Introduces The Twelve in a Smaller, 36MM Case Size Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Aug 24, 2023

Christopher Ward Introduces The Twelve in a Smaller, 36MM Case Size

Over the last few years, the watch-buying public has made known its seemingly insatiable appetite for sport watches with integrated bracelets – and smaller ones at that. In response, brands from Alpina to Zenith have given it their best shot. Today Christopher Ward fires the latest salvo in this movement with The Twelve, now in all of its 36mm glory. Introduced in April of this year, The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s interpretation of the integrated bracelet sport watch, and the new release changes little other than its dimensions. Front and center is still the eponymous dodecagonal bezel, which is mirrored on the caseback with three types of finishing: brushed, sandblasted, and highly polished. The 36mm case features screwed-in crown guards and remains 9.95mm thin. Lug-to-lug distance is now 40.8mm (likely not including the male end links), and water resistance is still 100 meters. At launch, you can choose from four dial options: Nordic or Glacier Blue, Alta White, and exclusive to this smaller size, Frosted Lichen (mint green). Inside beats the same Sellita SW200-1 that lives inside the non-titanium 40mm variants of The Twelve, but the date feature has been removed. CW claims keeping the date on this variant would have necessitated omitting the 6 o-clock hour marker entirely, something the brand elected not to do in order to preserve simplicity. Retail price is $1,225 on a bracelet and $995 on a tapering rubber strap. CW has stated that this new 36mm size is agender ...

Hands-On: the Vero Smokey ’44 Worn & Wound
Seiko NH38A automatic Dial Black Aug 23, 2023

Hands-On: the Vero Smokey ’44

Just a few short weeks ago, Vero introduced their officially-licensed Smokey the Bear watches that were inspired not only by the bear himself, but the era in which he came into existence. Today, we’re taking a look at the Smokey ’44. It’s inspired by the military watches of the 1940s, blended with a wildfire-themed color palette and a depiction of the friendly-but-stern bear right at 12 o’clock on the dial. This officially-licensed piece of Smokey swag is a great representation of both Vero as a brand and what Smokey the Bear stands for. Vero isn’t all talk either, being that 10% of all sales go directly back to the US Forest Service for conservation efforts. Let’s take a closer look, and remember - only you can prevent wildfires. $450 Hands-On: the Vero Smokey ’44 Case Stainless steel Movement Seiko NH38A automatic Dial Black, textured Lume Green SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Leather + canvas Water Resistance 120 meters Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 12mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty 10 years Price $450 Case Clocking in at a comfortable 38mm, the case of the ’44 wears really well on my 6.75” wrist. There’s nothing overly notable about the case, and I say that in a good way. It’s a straightforward field watch with a sturdy case that inspires confidence that it’ll stand up to whatever you want to throw at it. With 120m of water resistance, the ’44 has more than enough protection from H2O for a swim and then some. I like how Vero c...

HANDS-ON: The Briston Streamliner Urban and its retro-modern inspiration Time+Tide
Cartier Baume & Mercier Aug 23, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Briston Streamliner Urban and its retro-modern inspiration

After working for lofty brands such as Cartier, Baume & Mercier, and Zenith, Brice Jaunet needed to forge his own path. Briston was founded to be the culmination of his experience, as well as a blend of French and British styles to represent both his homeland and university days. Small watch brands can sometimes struggle … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Briston Streamliner Urban and its retro-modern inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow Time+Tide
Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II Aug 22, 2023

The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow

Zenith’s colourful limited edition from last year has returned, this time in black ceramic too The white variant now features a subtly different colour gradation An El Primero movement and openworked dial provides plenty of visual drama There’s just something undeniably fun and alluring about a rainbow watch. There’s a sort of horseshoe effect with … ContinuedThe post The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 is horology over hype Time+Tide
Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 Aug 22, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 is horology over hype

Much of today’s focus in watches revolves around hype pieces, at least in the mainstream. Breguet, however, has zero concern for hype – their total focus and effort is devoted to horology in the traditional style of their namesake. Therefore they do not bend to trends, or cut corners. It is as if with everything … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 is horology over hype appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glasgow’s Paulin Returns with the Modul, Available in Quartz and Mechanical Versions Worn & Wound
Casio nal collaborators Aug 21, 2023

Glasgow’s Paulin Returns with the Modul, Available in Quartz and Mechanical Versions

For watch enthusiasts, some big news out of Scotland this month: Paulin Watches, the Glasgow based brand that this year marks a decade in business, has been acquired by anOrdain, fellow Glaswegians and occasional collaborators. This, quite obviously, begins a new chapter for Paulin, a brand that has long been a favorite of ours here at Worn & Wound for their quirky and contemporary designs. The reboot happens under the watch of Imogen Ayers, a founding member of the anOrdain team, and Paulin’s Creative Director. Right out of the gate, they’ve introduced a new watch that signals a new direction, offering some hints about where the brand is heading.  The new watch, dubbed the Paulin Modul, is so named because it was inspired by the very concept of modular design. The Paulin team, having sourced a variety of unused vintage movements and not being certain of what types of calibers they’d have access to in the future, wanted to create a watch that could accommodate those different movements. This is a fairly radical idea, as anyone who has lamented slightly changed (usually increased) case dimensions following a movement “upgrade” in a product line can attest. For the Modul, the movement, dial, and hands are placed within a watertight, steel inner case, which is then attached to a steel outer case via a pair of screws on both sides. The cushion shaped case measures 35mm in diameter and is just 8.2mm tall.   To drive the modular point home, the Modul is available wi...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Branch Sector offers class and reliability under US$1,000 Time+Tide
Aug 21, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Branch Sector offers class and reliability under US$1,000

In the never-ending quest of making vintage-looking modern watches, brands tend to forget one key element: the tactile vintage feel. Getting the yesteryear look right can’t be easy, and getting the vintage feel when holding the watch in the hand seems to be nearly impossible to replicate. That is probably due to the fact that … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Branch Sector offers class and reliability under US$1,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Maillechort is Monochrome’s latest montre de souscription Time+Tide
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Maillechort Aug 21, 2023

The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Maillechort is Monochrome’s latest montre de souscription

This marks the third montre de souscription from Monochrome Monochrome aimed to design a “warm, discreet, and traditional” take on the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force This edition stands out with its usage of maillechort, or German silver, for the movement These days, whether standard models or limited editions, many try to leverage bold colours … ContinuedThe post The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Maillechort is Monochrome’s latest montre de souscription appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Amazing Live Sea-Monkeys Aquarium Watch Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2023

The Amazing Live Sea-Monkeys Aquarium Watch

There are a lot of weird watches in the world, from a slime-powered smartwatch to one that will tell you when you’re going to die. People are always looking for something unique, to stand out as a conversation piece. But, would you resort to a watch which can carry around live animals? The Amazing Live … ContinuedThe post The Amazing Live Sea-Monkeys Aquarium Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Casio G-Shock GM-B2100GD bids adieu to DIY CasiOak kits Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock GM-B2100GD bids adieu Aug 20, 2023

The Casio G-Shock GM-B2100GD bids adieu to DIY CasiOak kits

Ever since the 2019 introduction of the G-Shock 2100 series, more commonly known as the “CasiOak”, fans have been itching for a full metal version, and in 2022, they got one. Boy, did they get one. In fact, they got four – stainless, black, rose gold, and the subject of today’s hands-on, the uncompromisingly blinged-out … ContinuedThe post The Casio G-Shock GM-B2100GD bids adieu to DIY CasiOak kits appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 4: Chatting with the man behind the Kodo at Atelier Ginza Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 4 Aug 20, 2023

Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 4: Chatting with the man behind the Kodo at Atelier Ginza

We are nearing the end of this Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour series. In part one I detailed my visit to Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, the home of all things 9S mechanical, in Morioka. Part two detailed my return to Ginza and my visit to the incredible Seiko Museum Ginza. After leaving the museum, in part … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 4: Chatting with the man behind the Kodo at Atelier Ginza appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why have colourful watches only recently become the norm? Time+Tide
Aug 19, 2023

Why have colourful watches only recently become the norm?

Watchmaking is not at all a recent development. Even if you’re only counting from when pocket watches were widespread, that’s still coming up on 300 years of development and evolution. Despite that, shifting cultures and styles are constantly bringing forward new designs, new complications, and new technologies. So with all that in mind, why is … ContinuedThe post Why have colourful watches only recently become the norm? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 Aug 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention

The dive watch genre is rife with great watches, and many stick to a tried and true formula that was first devised in the early ‘50s with the advent of recreational diving. It’s evolved a bit over the generations, but what made for a great dive watch then, largely still makes for a great dive watch today. Their broad popularity stretches far beyond the bounds of the actual diving community, as the features that make a great dive watch also happen to make them great everyday companions for those that prefer life on dry land. But that doesn’t mean they all have to abide by the same set of rules.  In this Inside the Collection episode, I take a look at 3 dive watches that march to the beat of their own drum in some way, shape, or form, and eschew the established design codes of the genre. You’re probably familiar with one or two of these watches, as we’ve discussed two of them at length before (here, and here), but all three come together to say something important about my own collection, and how I view watches regardless of their label. The Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 seen here will be the subject of an upcoming Missed Review, in which we’ll further explore this era of the famous diver, and some of the ways the collection has diversified itself over the generation. This is watch that’s always found it’s own path, for better or worse, and not only does this specific reference represent something special within the collection, it represents somet...

The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pink Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Aug 18, 2023

The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pink

While Speake-Marin’s established catalogue has been upheaved in the last couple of years with their integrated-bracelet Ripples watches, their boutique and nuanced past is still being captured with select models like the Academic Black Tie using their Piccadilly case. With the Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink, technical sportiness gets merged with both tradition and vibrant whimsy … ContinuedThe post The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new Aug 17, 2023

The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry

This new Grand Seiko 44GS steel Spring Drive trio uses katana artistry as a muse for their dials The SBGA489 and SBGA491 introduce a new dial texture inspired by Japanese tamahagane steel The SBGA493, a limited edition of 500 pieces, has a fiery red dial that encapsulates the emanating sparks from the forging of a … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

9 Dungeons & Dragons races and the watches they’d wear Time+Tide
Aug 17, 2023

9 Dungeons & Dragons races and the watches they’d wear

The popularity of Dungeons & Dragons is at an all-time high, since nerd culture became pop culture and TV shows like Stranger Things boosted sales of D&D; starter kits by 250%. If you read my list about watches for goths, I’m sure you wouldn’t be surprised to hear I’m a long-term D&D; fan, and there … ContinuedThe post 9 Dungeons & Dragons races and the watches they’d wear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The best kinds of watches you should buy for a 21st birthday Time+Tide
Aug 15, 2023

The best kinds of watches you should buy for a 21st birthday

You may have a general idea of the watches a list like this would include. Of course, going for timeless and classic designs is going to be a solid option for any 21st birthday present, especially if it’s robust enough to survive most people’s wildest decade and keep those memories throughout their life. There are … ContinuedThe post The best kinds of watches you should buy for a 21st birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph Aug 14, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo

When it comes to big watch fairs like Watches & Wonders Geneva, it’s often the brands that aren’t officially exhibiting at the show that have some of the most exciting releases. Step out of the frenetic hive of activity that is Palexpo and go exploring Geneva’s streets, hotels and bars and you’ll find all manner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph Time+Tide
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Aug 12, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph

Watches & Wonders 2023 feels like a lifetime ago, but certain releases have stuck with us. Chopard’s L.U.C collection continues to impress with every release, and they doubled down on proving their worth at Watches & Wonders by unveiling both a reissue and a new design. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 returns to the collection’s 1997 … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.