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Introducing – The New Ochs und Junior Day/Night Holiday Edition 2025 Monochrome
Sep 30, 2025

Introducing – The New Ochs und Junior Day/Night Holiday Edition 2025

Ochs und Junior, the independent brand founded in 2006 around the inventive genius of Dr Ludwig Oechslin, has built its reputation on watches that present complex astronomical or calendar displays in radically simple, functional designs. Models such as the perpetual calendar, annual calendar, and moon phase are already cult favourites among collectors who appreciate mechanical […]

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar Goes Granular Two-Tone SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Master Control Calendar Sep 30, 2025

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar Goes Granular Two-Tone

Jaeger-LeCoultre has just introduced the Master Control Calendar Limited Edition, the latest addition to a long line of triple calendar watches going back decades. Packaged in the 40 mm Master Control case we’ve become familiar with, this new 500-piece stainless steel limited edition is all about the dial, which features a richly textured silver and grey livery on a “sector” layout. Despite the classical aesthetic, the Master Control Date is thoroughly modern on the inside with the cal. 866 featuring a silicon escapement that supports a 70-hour power reserve. Initial thoughts The triple calendar moon phase has long been a staple of the Jaeger-LeCoultre line-up; Pablo Picasso famously wore one. Add to this lineage the brand’s unique jumping date pointer, which jumps in a wide arc from the 15th to the 16th of the month to avoid confounding the moon phase display, and the result is a watch that manages to be both charming and technically distinctive. It’s also easily wearable in a 40 mm case, that, while larger than the vintage originals, gives the indicators on the dial plenty of space to breathe. Of course, the movement is the cal. 866, effectively a cal. 899 with a triple calendar module, which helps keeps the overall package quite sleek at 10.95 mm – on par with many simple time-and-date watches in this category. Upgraded a few years ago with a silicon escapement, the movement now runs for 70 hours when fully wound, adding convenience to wearability. Naturall...

Esha Gupta talks watches, and Andrew reveals his new watch alert! Time+Tide
Sep 29, 2025

Esha Gupta talks watches, and Andrew reveals his new watch alert!

Andrew welcomes Bollywood actress, model, environmentalist, and Indian superstar Esha Gupta to the Time+Tide London Watch Discovery Studio, where they dive into the worlds of cinema and watches with passion and insight. Their conversation reveals Esha’s love for watches, which she views as expressions of personality and storytelling, rather than mere status symbols. Andrew showcases … ContinuedThe post Esha Gupta talks watches, and Andrew reveals his new watch alert! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On With The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Jump Hour Double Phoenix Fratello
Sep 28, 2025

Hands-On With The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Jump Hour Double Phoenix

In June of this year, I had a chance to go hands-on with the stunning Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Collection. It displayed an incredible level of Chinese craftsmanship that I adore. For another hands-on experience, the brand sent us a jump-hour version of its Century Cloisonné Double Phoenix model. While the basics are similar […] Visit Hands-On With The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Jump Hour Double Phoenix to read the full article.

First Look – The New Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition Shines in Aventurine Monochrome
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition Sh... Sep 26, 2025

First Look – The New Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition Shines in Aventurine

Over the past two decades, the PanoMaticLunar has established itself as one of Glashütte Original’s most recognisable models. Its off-centred time display, Panorama Date, and moon-phase complication have become defining features of the collection, embodying the Saxon approach to precision, order, and poetry. Along the way, the PanoMaticLunar has experimented with colour, moving from the […]

First Look – MING Says Goodbye to its Moonphase Watch with the Final 37.05 Lunatic Edition Monochrome
Ming Sep 24, 2025

First Look – MING Says Goodbye to its Moonphase Watch with the Final 37.05 Lunatic Edition

Frustrated by not finding a watch he liked at a price he could afford, multi-talented founder Ming Thein decided to create his own brand. Based in Kuala Lumpur, the design-led indie brand has a distinctive and recognisable aesthetic built on contemporary design, where minimalism, luminescence, layering and colour are key players. Ever-evolving, Ming’s discontinuation of its […]

Owner’s Review: a Collector’s Perspective on the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Worn & Wound
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sep 23, 2025

Owner’s Review: a Collector’s Perspective on the Bulgari Octo Finissimo

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic first debuted at Baselworld 2017, and I remember every journalist I ran into, telling me to go check out the Bulgari booth. I met with Pascal Brandt (then marketing manager), and a genuine watch geek I had known for some time. He showed me Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium, and it was a “Wow” moment. I felt like I was holding a future classic in my hands, comparable to someone holding the Royal Oak for the first time in Basel in 1972 (and yes, there is a Genta connection). I had a couple of initial thoughts when I first experienced the Octo – I knew Bulgari had already made two of the slimmest complication Octo Finissimo’s in 2015 and 2016, but I chalked that to a fashion brand making a high complication for their wealthiest clients. But this was different, Bulgari managed to pull off the slimmest automatic watch that is lightweight, yet durable, with a micro-rotor movement for about $12,000. The second thought was that this is something special and, for me, a must own piece. Before I get into the ownership aspect of the Octo, I will give a brief history on how Bulgari got elevated to a serious watchmaking brand. The story of Bulgari’s transformation from a luxury fashion brand to a high-end watchmaker began in the year 2000. The watch industry was struggling after the late 1990’s financial crisis. In July 2000, Bulgari paid 37.6 million Swiss francs to acquire Gerald Genta SA, Daniel Roth SA, as well as Manufacture de Ha...

Five Non-Classic Omega Speedmasters Worthy Of Any Collection Fratello
Omega Speedmasters Worthy Sep 23, 2025

Five Non-Classic Omega Speedmasters Worthy Of Any Collection

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is truly one of the few iconic watch designs from the 20th century. Indeed, it may be one of the most recognizable designs in all of horology. Some of us, however, are fans from afar. We appreciate the Omega Speedmaster, but our eyes go elsewhere. For those enthusiasts after something with […] Visit Five Non-Classic Omega Speedmasters Worthy Of Any Collection to read the full article.

Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs Fratello
Sep 22, 2025

Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs

Many modern chronographs strive to strike a balance between vintage appeal and modern build quality. Few of those efforts result in a package as appealing as the Hanhart 415 ES Panda chronographs. These models revisit a 1960s design while delivering features expected in a contemporary tool watch. I had the chance to go hands-on with […] Visit Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs to read the full article.

Grand Seiko After Dark, “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko After Dark “Moonlit Birch” Sep 22, 2025

Grand Seiko After Dark, “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007

Grand Seiko has been fairly quiet over the summer, but has just unveiled the latest addition to its Evolution 9 collection, the “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007. Effectively a new variant of the “Birch Bark” SLGW003 with a steel case and navy blue dial, the Moonlit Birch is a competent alternative to its titanium stablemate. In other words, it’s an attractive new livery for what was already a compelling watch, and retains its best characteristics including a nuanced and ergonomic case, gorgeous dial furniture, and the brand’s latest manually wound cal. 9SA4 movement. Initial thoughts The original “Birch Bark” launched last year and was one of the standout releases at Watches & Wonders due to its elegant case profile and impressive new movement. The Moonlit Birch is identical in most respects, but the case is stainless steel, rather than titanium, and the dial is finished in navy blue instead of bright white. Despite these modest differences, the Moonlit Birch is appealing in its own right. The dial texture is subtle, but it’s enough of a Grand Seiko calling card to prevent the watch from looking too generic; a common trap for time-only dress watches. The stainless steel case exhibits the brand’s Evolution 9 styling, which gives the Moonlit Birch a bold, angular presence. In answer to the demand for slimmer options from Grand Seiko, the dimensions are nearly ideal, 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm thick. The watch is powered by the cal. 9SA4, which is pa...

After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking Sep 20, 2025

After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps

If asked which was more impressive, it would be hard for me to choose between the La Quête du Temps clock unveiled at the Louvre in Paris or the staff of Vacheron Constantin putting on a surprising show of music and dance in the Genevan manufacture the next day. “VC” started its celebration of 270 […] Visit After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Goes Gold SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Goes Gold Grand Seiko Sep 19, 2025

Grand Seiko Goes Gold

Grand Seiko has unveils three gold Spring Drive models with the new 9RA2 movement, the Japan-only Heritage Collection SLGA030, SLGA027 and SLGA028, in rose, white, and yellow gold respectively. The new collection benefits from a slimmer case, a longer power reserve, and some new dials to go with the satisfying heft of a full 18k gold bracelet that weighs in at almost 200 g. SLGA030 in rose gold. Initial Thoughts While mostly unknown outside Japan, a trio of gold Spring Drive models in 44GS-style cases on full gold bracelets were a staple of the domestic Grand Seiko catalog for nearly a decade, powered by the cal. 9R15 that was once the brand’s finest automatic Spring Drive movement. While identical to the cal. 9R65, save for a gold medallion on the rotor, Seiko set aside the best performing quartz timing packages for these special movements. The earlier generation of all-gold models, from left to right: SBGA364, SBGA361, and SBGA362. Grand Seiko has decided that now is the time to refresh the line with the upgraded cal. 9RA2, while preserving the heavyweight gravitas and luxurious bracelet of its predecessor. I have anticipated these watches since the second generation of Spring Drive movements launched in 2020; it took five years, but the result meets my expectations, though I would have liked a gold winding weight to match the case material. Selling watches on full precious metal bracelets in this segment is a mark of a strong brand. Gold prices and luxury margins bein...

Casio AQ-230 Review: The Minimalist Ana-Digi Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Sep 17, 2025

Casio AQ-230 Review: The Minimalist Ana-Digi Watch

When you think of Casio watches, one inevitably goes to digital classics like the F-91W, A168, AE-1200, or the G-Shock line. The Casio AQ-230 is the odd exception, in that it’s almost a minimalist dress watch intended to slip under a cuff. It’s also been around for over 30 years now, so it has to be doing something right.The Casio AQ-230 is the quintessential under-the-radar piece that doesn’t shout "digital watch" too loudly. The cleanly minimal, ana-digi design is thoughtful in ways that I appreciate but are subtle. For example, the analog hands never touch the digital LCD screen. The AQ-230 was released all the way back in 1995 as a follow-up to the old Casio Janus AQ-200 from 1982. The design was almost completely unchanged, other than the addition of another pusher on the left side of the case and a slimmer case width. Naturally, the AQ-230 stands out from other Casio watches due to its slightly “dressier” appearance and aesthetic. I have heard some people say it’s Casio's version of the Cartier Tank - which sounds a little outlandish but kind of checks out once you think about it. Casio AQ-230 Case and Bracelet This is a quintessentially unisex case size, coming in at 29.8mm wide, 8.1mm thick, and 38.8mm tall (with 30 meters of water resistance). This may sound a little small and, honestly, it is. But that’s not a bad thing, especially considering the rectangular case shape. The Cartier Tank Louis in the large case size measures 27.8mm wide and 38.1mm...

The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking Worn & Wound
Tissot Sep 17, 2025

The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking

Stone dials, as we’re all aware, have been having a moment over these last couple of years. Time, I suppose, will tell if the prevalence of stone dials across more affordable price ranges is a trend, or just a new part of the watch landscape that we’ll all just accept and live with, like green dials, or carbon cases. With the renewed popularity of this inherently 1970s/80s inspired design cue, it was really only a matter of time before we saw the return of a watch that takes the use of stone to a different level entirely. The Tissot Rock Watch, an artifact of the 1980s if ever there was one, is back, albeit in a limited edition that might be tough to acquire depending on your geography (more on that in a bit).  First, a little background on the Rock Watch. Launched in 1985, Tissot claims that the Rock Watch was the first ever watch with a case and dial made entirely from granite procured from the Swiss Alps. I’ll admit here that I haven’t done a ton of scholarly research on the topic, but I’m willing to take Tissot at face value here simply because granite is a particularly difficult material to work with, requiring highly specific machines and tooling. It’s a watch that doesn’t make a ton of practical sense from a production standpoint, but naturally was quite popular in the mid 80s and eventually spawned an entire collection for Tissot that featured a huge variety of exotic stones. Original Rock Watches from the 1980s The new version of the Rock Watch rema...

Elegant Watches Are On The Rise, And It’s About Time Fratello
Sep 17, 2025

Elegant Watches Are On The Rise, And It’s About Time

Let me make one thing clear: when I say that elegant watches are on the rise, I’m not referring to timepieces designed under the rule of restrained minimalism. Elegance doesn’t have to be quiet and introverted. Au contraire, swooping shapes, curvy lines, and delicate patterns are often outspoken, but the tone of voice prevents them […] Visit Elegant Watches Are On The Rise, And It’s About Time to read the full article.

Introducing – Awake Unveils 5 new Colours in the Son Mai Silver Leaf Vignette Collection Monochrome
Sep 16, 2025

Introducing – Awake Unveils 5 new Colours in the Son Mai Silver Leaf Vignette Collection

Founded in 2019, French indie brand Awake was created with the idea to raise awareness of our planet’s limited resources. Initial releases were based on a rather unique perspective, such as the brand’s “Mission to Earth” space-themed watches, which featured an NFC chip allowing owners access to exclusive views of our planet from the International […]

Hands-On: Spending Time With The Improved Traska Venturer GMT Fratello
Sep 16, 2025

Hands-On: Spending Time With The Improved Traska Venturer GMT

It’s been only a few weeks since I reviewed the Traska Commuter 38. It left a lasting impression because it is a great daily wearer - let me rephrase that: it is the best affordable daily wearer I have worn recently. It proved to be a great go-to pick among other, far more expensive watches […] Visit Hands-On: Spending Time With The Improved Traska Venturer GMT to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Best of Geneva Watch Days SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Sep 16, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of Geneva Watch Days

On episode 10 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the highlights and hands-on impressions from Geneva Watch Days, including the Greubel Forsey QP Balancier, Lange 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel, Gérald Genta’s new Minute Repeater, and the latest perpetual calendars from Audemars Piguet. We also discuss the significance of Tag Heuer’s carbon hairsprings; after a short-lived launch in 2019, the brand has taken a mulligan and relaunched this technology with a key difference that might make carbon hairsprings a real alternative to silicon. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 15, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel

The most recent launch from A. Lange & Söhne was surprising, even while being familiar. The 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel is, well, an 1815 Tourbillon with a black enamel dial. Nothing about the watch is unexpected, since all the elements have been employed elsewhere. But the watch is outstanding in quality, as is expected for a Lange, and strikingly and usually beautiful. Moreover, it is priced reasonably well, as such things go. Initial thoughts Cosmetic variations of an existing model are rarely great, but the new 1815 Tourbillon manages to be that. The original 1815 Tourbillon was fundamentally a good watch – well made and  functionally designed – but a little plain. The latest variation is outstanding. It’s just as well made, but the black enamel dial adds oomph. No risks were taken with the aesthetics; it is exactly the same in terms of design, but now in glossy black enamel. The tourbillon also hacks and includes a zero-reset seconds Perhaps most unexpected is the price. Many recent Lange releases often felt too expensive, this breaks the habit. At just under US$220,000, the 1815 Tourbillon is priced fairly, maybe even competitively, in its segment. In this respect, the 1815 Tourbillon reminds me of the Tribute to Celestial, an equally surprisingly well priced watch by Lange’s sister company Vacheron Constantin. And for the lucky, lucky few, Lange bestowed a baguette diamond bezel on a handful of these tourbillons, which raises the price by only about US$7...

Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection Fratello
Trilobe Sep 14, 2025

Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection

Trilobe is a brand we’ve featured on Fratello before, and I was fortunate to go hands-on with the collection last April at Watches and Wonders. The Parisian brand specializes in watches with a distinctive time-telling display. A series of rotating discs shows hours, minutes, and seconds. It’s a wonderfully straightforward concept that now achieves a […] Visit Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection to read the full article.

Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 12, 2025

Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing

Many factors go into the purchase of a new watch -  from pricing to colorway to the choice of movement and materials - but perhaps none are more make-or-break for most consumers than sizing. Watches, of course, being three-dimensional objects, there are multiple areas of measurement to consider, though most watch brands tend to narrow it down to the two most basic: the diameter (or in the case of non-round watches, the dimensions) of the main case and the case’s overall thickness, i.e. how high it will rise on the wrist. However, neither of these accounts fully for how large or small the watch will wear on the wrist. For that, you will need the lug-to-lug measurement, sometimes referred to more simply as the “length,” with the diameter deemed in shorthand as the “width.” The lugs, sometimes called “horns,” are the protruding parts of the case that connect it to the bracelet or strap. The distance from the tip of the top lugs to the tip of the bottom lugs is perhaps the most important factor that affects not only how large the watch “wears” on the wrist but also how comfortable it is. (This measurement should not be confused with another occasionally listed stat, the “lug width.” The latter, which is perhaps most useful for those looking to swap out other straps or bracelets on their watch, refers to the distance between the lugs on each side of the case, i.e., the span in which the strap or bracelet fits inside them. If a watch has a lug width of...

[VIDEO] Recapping the Paulin Mara Dive Watch Showroom Launch Event with Jason Heaton Worn & Wound
Sep 11, 2025

[VIDEO] Recapping the Paulin Mara Dive Watch Showroom Launch Event with Jason Heaton

Most recently, in our ongoing series of events at the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom, we partnered with Paulin to celebrate the launch of their first dive watch: the Mara. The Scottish brand’s latest release is a rugged, spec-heavy timepiece built for daily adventures and more demanding expeditions. Paulin chose our showroom for its laid-back atmosphere, reputation within the NYC watch community, and its ability to host both hands-on watch time and intimate Q&As;-an opportunity they fully embraced. The evening began with the public unveiling of the Mara, a 300-meter diver in stainless steel measuring 39.7mm across. Its robust case features lugs that angle inward for a distinctive stance, while the playful, geometric hour markers give the dial a unique personality. The Mara comes in blue or black, each paired with a domed sapphire bezel-bright blue for the former, a ghostly grey for the latter. Both drew plenty of admiration from attendees. The room was set with imagery from Scotland’s beaches, Land Rovers, and underwater scenes, complemented by a Bruichladdich whisky tasting station. Guests mingled with Paulin designer Katie Muir and Jason Heaton-diver, journalist, podcaster (The Grey NATO), author (The Tusker Novels), and Explorers Club member-who had field-tested the Mara on Scotland’s rugged shores and starred in the watch’s launch campaign. After plenty of whisky and watch talk, Jason sat down with Worn & Wound’s Head of Partnerships, Kyle Sna...