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Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking

5,141 articles · 663 videos found · page 179 of 194

Introducing – Glashütte Original Releases a Quartet of New Serenade Luna models Monochrome
Glashütte Original Releases Jun 10, 2025

Introducing – Glashütte Original Releases a Quartet of New Serenade Luna models

The Lady Serenade and PanoMatic Luna are Glashütte Original’s mechanical watch collections for women. While the PanoMatic Luna is essentially a smaller version of the men’s model, the Lady Serenade collection was conceived as a ladies’ watch from the start. Last year, the Lady Serenade was given a moonlight serenade with the incorporation of a moon phase display and […]

Hands-On With The BA111OD Chapter 7 Chronometer Forest Green Fratello
Jun 8, 2025

Hands-On With The BA111OD Chapter 7 Chronometer Forest Green

Writing about watches from a distance can be a challenging task. Sure, it’s easy enough to understand the specifications, finishing methods, and purpose of a new release. However, seeing is believing. Then again, there are times when coming face to face with a potentially desirable watch ends in disappointment. Thankfully, the BA111OD Chapter 7 is […] Visit Hands-On With The BA111OD Chapter 7 Chronometer Forest Green to read the full article.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Fortis May 29, 2025

All the Panels of the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 and More!

The 2025 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco was one for the books. Thousands of attendees poured into the city’s vibrant Marina District for three days of hands-on horology, exclusive releases, and face time with the creators behind the brands we love. The energy was electric, and the programming only elevated what was already an unforgettable experience. Thanks to our sponsors, this year’s event reached new heights, with panels that brought depth, insight, and real-time connection to the forefront. Here are recordings of the full conversations that helped shape the weekend, plus some videos from our friends at Fortis and Bulova. Introducing the New Fortis Fliegers with the WERK 7 Manufacture Calibre The Fortis Flieger collection connects over 40 years of aviation heritage with the modern era. Redefined in collaboration with the Swiss Air Force, it stands as the most readable tool watch Fortis has ever crafted. This video goes into its new WERK 7 manufacture calibre with 70 hours of power reserve, as explained by Andreas Bentele, Marketing Manager at Fortis. Panel 1 – Making Watches for the Enthusiast vs. the Curious Worn & Wound’s Managing Editor Zach Kazan kicked off the programming with a lively conversation featuring Abingdon Mullin, CEO at Abingdon, Jonathan Ferrer, Designer & Founder at Brew, and Brandon Little, Founder & Designer at Artefkt. The panel explored how brands can speak to both hardcore collectors and casual newcomers-without diluting their voic...

One Of The Best-Kept Secrets: The Gold Speedmaster First Omega In Space Fratello
Omega May 27, 2025

One Of The Best-Kept Secrets: The Gold Speedmaster First Omega In Space

Ten years ago, Omega introduced the Globemaster, the Seamaster 300 Spectre edition, and the white-dial Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 45th Anniversary limited edition. That year, Omega focused primarily on the Spectre and the Snoopy, neglecting to give the Globemaster the attention it deserved. Additionally, the Sedna (rose) Gold Speedmaster First Omega in Space (FOiS) did […] Visit One Of The Best-Kept Secrets: The Gold Speedmaster First Omega In Space to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon May 21, 2025

Hands-On With The New Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”

Tudor released the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” for this year’s Miami F1 Grand Prix. The watch celebrates the collaboration with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls (VCARB) Formula 1 team with a 2,025-piece limited run. I got a chance to go hands-on to see what’s what. I was delighted to get this opportunity because […] Visit Hands-On With The New Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” to read the full article.

First Look – The New Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with Obsidian Dials Monochrome
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin May 14, 2025

First Look – The New Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with Obsidian Dials

While Piaget is rightfully heralded as the precursor of ultra-thin calibres, it was also a pioneer of ornamental stone dials in the early 1960s. A decade or so later, under the direction of Yves Piaget, another milestone was reached with the release of the famous gold Polo sports watch in 1979. Its sleek gold integrated […]

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” for the Giro d’Italia Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces May 12, 2025

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” for the Giro d’Italia

It’s deja vu all over again. Just last week, we brought you news of Tudor’s latest release in carbon fiber, a Black Bay Chronograph made to celebrate their partnership with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls F1 team. Just days after that announcement, Tudor followed up with yet another carbon chrono, this one built on the FXD platform. As with all of Tudor’s carbon watches to date, this new FXD Chrono has a very specific sports tie in as well, demonstrating that Tudor’s connections to the sports world are broad, and they’re likely to continue supporting their partners with new watches along the way.  The new Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” is a sequel of sorts to the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” released a year ago. Both releases were timed to coincide with the Giro d’Italia, the famed Italian cycling race for which Tudor is the official timekeeper. Last year’s watch had prominent red accents, a design meant to evoke the colors of the Tudor Pro Cycling Team, this one has gone pink as a tribute to the race itself. The leader at the beginning of each stage dons a pink jersey, the “Maglia Rosa,” so the color has a deep connection to the race and Italian cycling culture.  The pink accents on the tachymeter scale and the 9 and 3 o’clock subdials, contrast nicely with the black dial, and complement the fabric strap with pink striping down the center. As with last years Cycling release, the tachymeter scale here is set up to time cycling speeds as oppo...

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No May 10, 2025

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1

In a surprising turn of events, the Breguet Sympathique no. 1 has been acquired by its primary creator, Francois-Paul Journe, for the princely sum of CHF5.51 million including fees (equivalent to US$6.61 million). Notably, Sympathique no. 1 sold for almost as much as the Sympathique made for the Duc d’Orléans. Completed in 1991 for the Art of Breguet thematic auction, the clock was completed in 1991 by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), a complications workshop founded by Mr Journe, who also recruited Denis Flageollet and clockmaker Dominic Mouret. And now it will soon become one of the key exhibits in the upcoming F.P. Journe Museum, which will be located near its manufacture in downtown Geneva. Determined bidding The impressive result for the clock exceeded most expectations, including mine. I had expected a result in the region of CHF2.5 million. And in a bit of intrigue before the auction, F.P. Journe sent out an announcement to its clients before the auction stating that it would not repair or service Sympathique no. 1; the buyer of the clock would have to go to Breguet. Getting to the hammer price was not difficult, illustrating the strength of the F.P. Journe name today. While there were a handful of bidders under the million-franc mark, it was eventually down to a gentleman in the room and Mr Journe himself. Past the CHF2 million mark it then turned into a contest between a phone bidder represented by Alex Ghotbi and Mr Journe. Bidding proceeded at a stea...

Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” Fratello
Autodrome May 5, 2025

Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”

We knew something was coming from Tudor this weekend. We also knew it would be related to this weekend’s F1 Grand Prix at the Miami International Autodrome. It had Tudor fans speculating what this new release could be. Especially after the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls F1 team announced a full pink race livery for […] Visit Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces May 3, 2025

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”

In what’s become an annual tradition, Tudor has just revealed a special edition on the eve of the Miami Grand Prix. But unlike last year’s Black Bay “Chameleon” destined only for the drivers of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB), the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” is a commercially available timepiece – but in a limited edition of 2,025 pieces. The Carbon 25 is presented in a carbon composite case, matched with a domed dial in the colours of the VCARB team that also sports carbon composite registers. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of Tudor in general, mainly because of the strong value proposition the brand offers in all its watches. The chronographs stand out as amongst the best in the price segment. However, the chronographs in steel are a little thick and weighty; the Carbon 25 definitely reduces the weight substantially, and it’s also a tiny bit slimmer. Tudor already has a carbon-case chronograph in the collection (that is actually thinner), but the Carbon 25 has a more appealing case design that retains all of the elements of the steel case, including the bevelled lugs. One detail that stands out are the carbon composite inserts in between the lugs that give the strap a better visual integration into the case. I like the Carbon 25, enough that I would buy one, but the watch is the most expensive chronographs in the Tudor catalogue, with a price of US$7,575. It is still well priced compared to the competition, but priced substantially more expensi...

Graduation Watches: The Gift Guide For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 24, 2025

Graduation Watches: The Gift Guide For Every Budget

Graduation season is just around the corner, and, given the title of this article, I’m pretty sure you can already tell where I’m going with this. Whether you yourself are about to don a cap and gown, or you know a graduate who’s preparing to celebrate the end of one chapter and the beginning of a new one, a watch makes a great gift to mark a transition from one phase of life into the next. It’s a tale as old as time (or, at least, as old as watches).  So, to give you some graduation gifting inspiration - or, in case you need to provide some loved ones with a little guidance on the graduation gift you might want - I’ve rounded up various watches at (I hope) every price point with grads in mind. Some key elements I’ve looked for in making this list are practicality, versatility, and styles of watches that could make a one-and-done collection in themselves for those who are new to watches, or those beginning a collection. And if you aren’t celebrating graduation season yourself, but are in need of a nudge to celebrate some other key moment in your life - well, you’re welcome here, too.  Under $500 Casio Vintage ABL100WE-1AVT Price: $79.95 Case: 37.9mm. Water Resistant: Yes. Movement: Quartz battery Going by ascending order on price feels like the most obvious way to order this guide, so I will begin with a watch not just under $500, but under $100. For those who are possibly just dipping their toes into the idea of wearing a watch regularly (this is t...

G-SHOCK Helps Casio Ring in their 50th Year in Watches with the GMC-B2100ZE Worn & Wound
Casio Ring Apr 22, 2025

G-SHOCK Helps Casio Ring in their 50th Year in Watches with the GMC-B2100ZE

One of the only bad things that came out of me getting rid of my Facebook account was that I have no idea when anyone’s birthdays are anymore. Now, I have just two options. I either have to awkwardly ask my friend of seventeen years if she’s the 15th or the 19th of June (only to be told it’s December 7th) or I cut them out of my life completely, not being able to face that embarrassment. The same goes for anniversaries. I only remember my parents’ anniversary because they honeymooned at Dollywood and I think that’s something worth remembering. And I’ve cheated a little to remember my own anniversary as it’s a bit mneumonical: my husband and I began dating on January 1 and we got married on November 11. I’m surely going to be in big trouble with my second husband. All the good dates have been taken. What I really need, I think, to remember an anniversary is a watch to commemorate it (or, at the very least, a press release sent to a bunch of journalists to write about). That is, in fact, what Casio did for their 50th anniversary in watchmaking with a new G-SHOCK earlier this month, a black and gold all-metal version of their GMC-B2100 series. Like others in the B2100 collection, the anniversary edition has the now-iconic octagonal shape, but rendered in stainless steel. Coming in a black and gold motif, one may think this colorway is a nod to my own Pittsburgh heritage; but you’d be mistaken. According to Casio, this particular color combination represents ...

What Kind Of Tank Am I - A Cartier Tank Américaine Or Louis Cartier?  Fratello
Cartier Tank Américaine Or Louis Apr 10, 2025

What Kind Of Tank Am I - A Cartier Tank Américaine Or Louis Cartier? 

Eckhart Tolle once said, “What a liberation to realize that the ‘voice in my head’ is not who I am. Who am I then? The one who sees that.” While those are wise words indeed, that’s not the question I ask myself. I want to know what kind of Tank I am. I know I’m […] Visit What Kind Of Tank Am I - A Cartier Tank Américaine Or Louis Cartier?  to read the full article.

Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold Fratello
Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Apr 2, 2025

Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold

In 2024, Piaget celebrated the 45th anniversary of Yves Piaget’s Polo watch by introducing a re-edition, the Polo 79, in full yellow gold. It came out in February of last year, and RJ dared to say that probably nothing at Watches and Wonders 2024 would trump it. We all know RJ is very much into […] Visit Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold to read the full article.

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 270th Anniversary Editions SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 270th Anniversary Editions Apr 1, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 270th Anniversary Editions

The anniversary celebrations continue at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced 270th anniversary versions of the Patrimony Self-Winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date featuring asymmetric guilloche-style dials depicting the Maltese Cross. Both models are part of Vacheron Constantin (VC)’s 270th anniversary collection, with the simple automatic limited to 370 pieces each in either 18k white or rose gold, while the retrograde date limited to just 270 pieces in each metal. Initial thoughts This watch is all about its dial, which it shares with the Traditionnelle. I liked the look immediately, which is subtle yet appropriately self-referential for such an occasion. I often find the Patrimony to wear on the large side, given the expansive dial and slim bezel, but in this case I think the asymmetry of the dial design helps shrink the watch visually. The Patrimony Self-Winding duo Both references stick to roughly the same dimensions of their standard production counterparts, 40 mm by 8.65 mm thick for the simple automatic, and 42.5 mm by 9.7 mm for the retrograde date. Both sets of figures are on the larger end of the spectrum for dress watches, but this sizing should work well to highlight the special dial. Despite their functional differences, both models share the same automatic base caliber from the cal. 24xx movement family, which is configured either for central seconds or to accommodate the retrograde date mechanism. This 4 Hz movement platform has a relat...

Alpina Re-Issues a Classic with the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding Worn & Wound
Alpina Re-Issues Apr 1, 2025

Alpina Re-Issues a Classic with the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding

The original Alpina Tropic-Proof, released in 1965 under mysterious origins-even the Swis brand itself can’t pinpoint the exact date-was emblematic of the newfound adventurous spirit ushered in by the now-accessible boom of transatlantic air travel. With a case designed by François Borgel and a handwinding movement, the Tropic-Proof was meant to be a watch-of-all-trades that could travel the globe with ease, rather than a specialized tool. Six decades later, Alpina is reissuing that design with key nods to the model’s history and future. Appropriately dubbed the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding, the watch is enveloped in an understated stainless steel case that measures 34mm in diameter. Both dial options-shiny-finished white or black-contrast well with the applied silver indexes and polished silver hands, and the dial design excels in its simplicity, without conceding elegance. The hour and minute hands, as well as the dotted minute track, are coated in beige Luminova to give the Tropic-Proof ease of use in darkness. A beige Alcantara strap with a pin buckle adds a touch of sophistication, but not overzealousness, keeping the watch within the boundaries of subtle class. A threaded solid caseback with an engraved Heritage pattern hides the handwinding AL-480 caliber movement, which touts a 42-hour power reserve. Capping off the simple but elegant design is an anti-reflective glass box sapphire crystal, which curves downwards to maintain viewing ease at all an...

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Reverend Henry Leonard Nelthropp – The First Great Collector of Watches and Clocks Worn & Wound
Mar 25, 2025

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Reverend Henry Leonard Nelthropp – The First Great Collector of Watches and Clocks

Few private horological collections survive intact from the 19th century. The fully catalogued collection of clocks and watches by Rev. Henry Leonard Nelthropp FSA was made initially without the benefit of any reference books. The extensive collection of 260 items was presented to the Clockmakers’ Museum in 1894 and is a fascinating insight into the mind of a pioneering private collector. Reverend Henry Nelthropp FSA (1820 – 1901) began his career as a curate in Bristol. He then served as Chaplain to the British Legation in Switzerland but after receiving an inheritance, retired to London. From 1854, he had indulged in his fascination for horology and had begun to collect. He built up a remarkable knowledge of his subject, although few reference books were available to him. After receiving an inheritance, Nelthropp focused on collecting clocks and watches with historical significance, particularly those from the 17th and 18th centuries. His collection included examples of all types of British and European clockmaking and scientific instruments, including a variety of longcase clocks, bracket clocks, early pocket watches, hour glasses, astrolabes, celestial globes amongst other horological items. Drum shaped clock by an unknown maker, Germany, 1525-1550. The Clockmakers’ Museum/Clarissa Bruce © The Clockmakers’ Charity This is one of the earliest pieces in the Nelthropp collection. A drum shaped clock by an unknown maker in Germany made between 1525-1550. It has an...

Glashütte Original Reveals New "Frosted" Dials for Senator Excellence Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original Mar 20, 2025

Glashütte Original Reveals New "Frosted" Dials for Senator Excellence

German luxury watchmaker Glashütte Original has been on a streak of masterful moon-phase creations in recent years, releasing some absolutely exquisite dial colors in its PanoMaticLunar model (including the green-dial model I review here) and unveiling the first PanoLunarInverse model toward the end of 2024. Today, the brand continues shooting for the moon, in a visual and horological sense, with the launch of two new versions of its Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase family boasting two eye-catching - and historically inspired - new dial colors. Both of the watches’ dials - one in frosted silver, the other in frosted copper, achieved in a galvanic process - are created in homage to the rich mineral deposits once mined in the Ore Mountains, near the state of Saxony and the watchmaking town of Glashütte. Their finely grained surfaces, meant to evoke the thin layers of ice on the mountain rock, play host to the familiar and elegant details of the Senator Excellence family - including hand-applied, blued Roman numeral markers in gold and blued, polished poire hands complemented by a central seconds hand with the brand’s “double G” symbol as counterweight. The watches’ signature functions occupy carefully chosen spots on the dial without disrupting its overall clean, harmonious look. The large “Panorama” date display settles snugly in a double window at 4 o’clock, while the moon-phase elegantly balances it in the opposite corner above, its ...

Talking About The Substance: Ceramic Is The New Gold Fratello
Mar 13, 2025

Talking About The Substance: Ceramic Is The New Gold

Did you know humans have been making ceramics for at least 26,000 years? They’ve done so by subjecting clay and silica to intense heat to fuse and form ceramic materials. Mind you, traditionally, these were not dishes, as you might expect. Rather, they were small, sculpted figures. Only in the 1970s did ceramic enter the […] Visit Talking About The Substance: Ceramic Is The New Gold to read the full article.

Konstantin Chaykin Returns with Slavic Bread-Creature Wristmon SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Mar 7, 2025

Konstantin Chaykin Returns with Slavic Bread-Creature Wristmon

Drawn from a Russian fairy tale about a bun coming to life, the Kolobok 2 arrives a year after Konstantin Chaykin revealed the original Kolobok. Like its predecessors in the Wristmon collection, this features a dial inspired by the titular character’s face. But the Kolobok 2 marks a departure from the first version in two notable ways: it is now a regular production watch rather than a limited edition, and it features a La Joux-Perret base movement instead of an ETA. Initial thoughts The Kolobok 2 is the latest of many Wristmon models, arguably too many to date. However, the fact that this is a regular production model, as opposed to a limited edition, is a positive development since it indicates the brand is leaving behind the multiple-edition approach. That aside, the watch itself is an upgrade over earlier versions. Although the new Kolobok 2 has the same simple functions arranged as a face, it is powered by a new movement based on the La Joux-Perret G200, replacing the modified ETA 2892-A2 used in preceding entry-level Wristmon models. This calibre is a step forward for the Wristmon model. Amongst other things that put it ahead of the ETA 2892, the G200 sports a a full balance bridge with a free-sprung balance. Another wristmon The Kolobok 2 retains the same dimensions and technical specifications as its predecessors, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 12.2 mm in thickness. As with all Wristmons, it features a notched bezel with 12 screws and a case that’s predominan...

Anoma Debuts the A1 Slate Worn & Wound
Mar 6, 2025

Anoma Debuts the A1 Slate

In a monochrome, modernist twist on the recently released A1 First Series, London upstart brand Anoma-short for Anomaly- has announced its followup, the appropriately named A1 Slate. Sharing the same smooth triangular shape with rounded angles and an offset face, the A1 Slate was similarly inspired by a free-form table designed  by Charlotte Perriand in the 1950s, and Constantin  Brâncuși’s modernist sculptures. The new gray, black, and white color scheme, however, promises a more subtle take on the shape that aligns more with the third inspiration-river stones, smoothed over time by passing water.  The 316L stainless steel triangular case is likely the first detail on the A1, whether the First Series or the Slate, that an observer will notice. Measuring in at 30mm x 38mm (though Anoma notes that the shape and lack of lugs make the fit closer to 37mm), the case is mirror-polished, and meant to refract and bend light at every angle. Without having the watch on hand, I can’t vouch for this effect, but Worn & Wound’s own Zach Weiss reviewed the A1 First Series back in January 2024 and attested to the charm of the watch’s styling and finish. The vertically-brushed dial itself stands out against the case, with individually-engraved contrasting inner triangles coated with three layers of glossy black lacquer. Leaf hour and minute hands adorn the dial, with the Anoma logo below the centerpoint. A cleverly-situated cross with lines at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clo...

The Cornell Watch Company Introduces Two New References, and Announces a Partnership with Hour Precision to Produce Watches in America at Scale Worn & Wound
Feb 27, 2025

The Cornell Watch Company Introduces Two New References, and Announces a Partnership with Hour Precision to Produce Watches in America at Scale

When John and Chrissy Warren relaunched the Cornell Watch Co. in 2023, it was something of an experiment. They wanted to revive luxury watch making in America … at scale. Now, with their launch year behind them, the Warrens have proven there is an appetite for high-end American watches, having sold and delivered their first 15 build slots for the beautifully crafted 1870 Classic Enamel. Now the Warrens are moving on to the next phase of their company: moving from producing small numbers of artisanal watches to producing hundreds of watches a year that compete in quality with Swiss brands. Part of the appeal of Cornell’s first watches in the relaunch, the 1870 Classic Enamel, was that the watch was put together by America’s leading watchmaker, Roland Murphy. Murphy’s reputation as an artisan who produces work of the highest quality made him an ideal partner for an American brand. His name leant credibility to the project and his years of experience running RGM Watch Co. meant the watches would be beautiful examples of craftsmanship. But relying on RGM Watches to assemble Cornell’s watches had a downside: the high-level hand-finishing they utilize means RGM doesn’t produce huge quantities of watches. And, of course, Cornell isn’t even the center of RGM’s business, meaning the 15 Cornell 1870 CEs produced by RGM in 2024 - 16 if you include a piece unique that was auctioned off - represent roughly what could be expected from the partnership year-over-year: ...

Introducing – A New, Stylish Blue and Golden Dial For the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date Monochrome
MeisterSinger Feb 26, 2025

Introducing – A New, Stylish Blue and Golden Dial For the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date

Inspired by the very first mechanical tower and table clocks that had not yet discovered the minutes hand, MeisterSinger’s disarmingly simple premise is to deliver the time with a single hand. However, a single hand is not necessarily equated with simple watches, and the brand’s repertoire includes complications like its chiming Bel Hora and moon phase […]

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy (1780-1854) – A Champion of British Craftsmanship Worn & Wound
Feb 25, 2025

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy (1780-1854) – A Champion of British Craftsmanship

Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy was the last of the great Vulliamy family of Royal clockmakers and five-times Master of the Clockmakers’ Company. He was Royal Clockmaker to King George IV, King William IV and Queen Victoria and the driving force behind the formation of the Clockmakers Library and Collection – now Clockmakers’ Museum – from 1814 onwards. The Public Face of Clockmaking The Vulliamy family was known for producing high-quality timepieces, often regarded as some of the finest in Britain during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy was the last of four generations of Royal clockmakers based at 68 Pall Mall, London from 1753. Early in life he joined his father Benjamin in the family business, which by then was best known for its ornamental clocks and metal furnishings. Upon his father’s death in 1811, Benjamin Lewis inherited control of the business. Following the end of the Napoleonic wars he began to shift its output towards emerging new markets, particularly those brought about by the development and expansion of institutions like the new Houses of Parliament, government departments and London’s clubland. In all his products he aimed for high quality, reliability and accuracy. He created clocks for public buildings and important institutions. Some of his works are still present in places like the Horse Guards Parade and the Royal Exchange in London. This magnificent and imposing clock No. 1394 (below) was purchased for use in ...

Some Of The Best Colorful Watch Dials Worn & Wound
Casio ns when nothing else Feb 12, 2025

Some Of The Best Colorful Watch Dials

Many of us are guilty of it: in an entire collection, every last dial will be monochrome. White here, black there, and a dash of silver or grey mixed in. If one is particularly daring, there may even be a dark blue dial added in. But versatility isn’t everything - sometimes, a bright, in-your-face dial is the perfect antidote to a grey day. Watch dials have historically been places of decoration. Painted enamel dials were popular in the nineteenth century, with such vivid imagery as landscapes, battles, and hunting scenes adorning them. Though neglected through the early twentieth century, the colorful dial - now in more vibrant bursts of color - saw a vivid return in the mid-twentieth century when companies were scrambling to produce new timekeepers for the burgeoning underwater sport of SCUBA diving. A colorful dial can signal the change in seasons. For many, a bright dial immediately conjures images of sunny vacations, warm water, and worn paperbacks, while a muted dial can be the perfect companion during bleak midwinters, perfectly accenting the changed environment. A well-chosen dial can also inject color into both your collection and wardrobe, providing the right accent piece and adding the missing link in an otherwise perfect outfit. In this week’s Chronicle, we’re looking at some of our favorite colorful dials for those occasions when nothing else will do. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. I...

Piaget’s Polo Combines the Flying Tourbillon and Moonphase SJX Watches
Piaget s Polo Combines Feb 11, 2025

Piaget’s Polo Combines the Flying Tourbillon and Moonphase

Piaget is dialling up the complexity of its popular sorts watch with the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase. Housed in a 44 mm, cushion-shaped titanium case, the new Polo features a partially open-worked dial that reveals the flying tourbillon - with cage topped by a stylised “P” - alongside a moon-phase indicator at six o’clock. Interestingly, the ultra-thin cal. 642P inside is a form movement in a tonneau shape. Initial thoughts The Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase adds an interesting pair of complications to the Polo, but without impacting the simplicity or symmetry of the dial. It’s a high-end alternative to the more affordable Polo models, like the Skeleton Ceramic, but it is also the largest Polo at 44 mm in diameter. This will affect wearability, making it versatile than the smaller-format Polo models. That said, because the movement is ultra-thin, the large case has an elegant, thin profile. As an aside, an open back would have been a welcome addition, since it would provide a view of the tonneau-shaped movement. Tourbillon This 44 mm cushion-shaped titanium case is finished with alternating mirror polishing and satin-brushing, complemented by blue-coated inserts on the case flanks. Water-resistant to 100 m, it frames a partially open-worked dial that’s finished with horizontal fluting as is standard for the Polo. Visible from both the front and back, the flying tourbillon is framed by a blue seconds ring on the dial, allowing the cage to double up as ...

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph CFT Carbon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Feb 7, 2025

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph CFT Carbon

On its face, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Date in CFT carbon is familiar. The aesthetic is the oversized, stylised, and modern look that defines the Royal Oak Concept (ROC), with aggressive pusher guards and a complex, open-worked dial. And this latest version has the added feature of a carbon composite case produced via Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) that adds both colour and luminosity to the material. But the ROC Split-Seconds is more than just another Royal Oak chronograph because of the cal. 4407 inside. Launched in the 2023 titanium model, the is a latest-generation in-house movement and a notably innovative rattrapante calibre. The ingenuity of the movement lies in the fact that is both a traditional, integrated split-seconds chronograph and self-winding – a feat achieved with an elegant and patented automatic mechanism. Initial thoughts The very first Royal Oak Concept in Alacrite of 2002 was an enormous, heavy watch. Since then, the design of the ROC has been refined to become more wearable, and more lightweight thanks to new materials. The ROC Split-Seconds is perhaps the most wearable to date. Even though it’s a big watch, it doesn’t actually feel that large; the curved, tonneau-like form clings to the wrist well. The look is typical ROC – technical, aggressive, and modern. While I like the look, it is a little over the top. The style is now; I am not sure how it will age. Visuals aside, the ROC Split-Seconds is int...