Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1971 Audemars Piguet Automatic In White Gold, A 1960s Glycine Airman, And A 1964 Rolex Datejust In Yellow Gold
Hobnail has to be one of the better words in the world of watches. Hobnail.
2,045 articles · 12 videos found · page 18 of 69
Hodinkee
Hobnail has to be one of the better words in the world of watches. Hobnail.
WatchAdvice
First up, let me get something off my chest. I have never been a fan of the movement used in the AP Royal Oak Offshore. As much as I like the style of the watch, I’ve always felt the movement isn’t up to scratch, especially for the price. Of course, not many people will care about this, but one look at how deep-set the date is, and you know clearly that it is a modular construction (module by Dubois-Deprez). And really, at $50k a pop, is it really too much to ask for an integrated chronograph movement? I’m sure there are many out there who will argue that this is part of the charm. It’s what makes the Royal Oak Offshore different. But I have a feeling given how hyped the watches are, people are only too happy to buy one when one is available, and straight away, blinders come on, and the denial begins. Especially when the layout is exactly the same as the ubiquitous ETA 7750 chronographs (12-9-6 sub-dials). Again, nothing wrong with the ETA 7750. In fact, it is one of my favourite entry-level, workhorse movements, but even this one is integrated… Fine. Call me a chronograph snob if you like. As we all know, this hobby is highly personal and highly subjective. I just prefer my chronographs to be integrated. (Although I’m not fussy regarding whether it’s a vertical or horizontal clutch, and whether or not the engagement is controlled by a column-wheel or a cam/lever assembly – I’m sure there are people out there who swears by one form over another…) This...
Revolution
Deployant
Recently, Longines had launched a new series of mechanical watches for the DolceVita series. We take a look and see how does the new Longines timepiece fare.
Revolution
SJX Watches
Having made its debut 15 years ago, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier is an upstart by the Parisian jeweller’s standards – the Santos and Tank, for example, are both over a century old. But the Ballon Bleu was an instant hit, thanks to its classically round case with a quirky and captivating crown, making it one of the brand’s best sellers. Now a new size has joined the line up, the Ballon Bleu 40 mm powered by the in-house 1847 MC automatic movement. It sits in between the 36 mm medium and 42 mm large automatic models, neither too big nor too small for current tastes (Cartier already has a 40 mm that is hand-wind). The new 40 mm automatic also incorporates a practical upgrade: the brand’s proprietary quick-release system for the bracelet and strap. And finally, the new size also includes new dials in a simpler, metallic finish – in either blue and grey – giving it a more contemporary look. The most traditional of the Ballon Bleu variants with a silver guilloche dial Initial thoughts The Ballon Bleu is over a decade old but still attractive in a timeless manner that Cartier’s classic designs always manage to be. But it’s unusual among the brand’s best-known watch designs. While the signature Tank and Santos watches are characterised by straight, hard lines, the Ballon is a made up of spheres and domes of varied sizes – the crown, case, crystal and even the case back are all lightly rounded, giving it a pebble-like feel that’s a little organic. Given the B...
Quill & Pad
Urwerk and MB&F; are two stalwarts of contemporary watchmaking with, superficially at least, much in common. Here Ian Skellern shares what he thinks are the significant similarities and differences between these two leaders in modern independent watchmaking.
Hodinkee
Flyboy charm up to the hilt.
Hodinkee
Foxtrot four-one and Foxtrot tree-niner, you are cleared to land.
Hodinkee
An extra-precious extension for the core of the Overseas line.
Hodinkee
Cermet time again.
Quill & Pad
Many people believe resonance to be very rare, when in fact every single timekeeping device (yes, even quartz) is a resonant mechanism. But clocks and watches featuring resonance as we generally understand it in watchmaking are few and far between. In the last few decades, less than a handful of highly skilled watchmakers have taken up the challenge of creating a resonance watch. Here, Joshua Munchow looks at the pros and cons of the different approaches taken by the three leaders in this technology.
Hodinkee
A sporty chronograph for Longines' new line of chronometer pilot's watches.
Hodinkee
Putting the plastic waste in the ocean to good use.
Hodinkee
A darkly lovely new presence in the Octo Finissimo collection.
Hodinkee
Say hello to the latest and most wearable Portugieser.
Hodinkee
In with the new and in with the old.
Hodinkee
Warm and soft like a cozy sweater.
Hodinkee
A one-handed watch for your more adventurous side.
Revolution
Breitling introduces the Navitimer in its smallest package ever, dedicated to women who want the perfect mix of style and tradition.
Hodinkee
The icon comes in a new size, with a range of colors and materials.
Quill & Pad
Colin Alexander Smith highlights the fact that both electric guitars and watches share the timeless debate over whether to restore an item showing its age or to preserve it “as is.” And John Mayer is mixed up in both; but how?
Hodinkee
Bulgari comes out swinging with a new finish for its signature Octo Finissimo in steel.
Revolution
Audemars Piguet remasters its past with this incredible new take on one of its rarest chronographs from 1943.
Hodinkee
A stunning green dial matched with a yellow-gold case.
WatchAdvice
See how the Breitling Superocean Heritage stack up against other dive watches! The year 1957 was an important one in Breitling’s history, as this was when the brand first released the Superocean collection. In fact, the decade of 1950 saw some prestigious brands such as Rolex and Omega release dive watches (Submariner, Seamaster 300), with Breitling following suit in the latter years. Breitling released the Superocean model in two variants; chronograph and non-chronograph. Some of the originals from 1957 are much sought after today by Breitling and watch enthusiasts. In celebration of the 60th anniversary of the Superocean, in 2017 Breitling redesigned the Superocean Heritage line and released anniversary editions which come in both chronograph and non-chronograph versions, much like the originals from 1957. Both these editions were made by Breitling to resemble original versions in terms of design, with only the movement update being the significant change in the watches. The watch models came in 42mm and 46mm sizes with the chronograph version available in 46mm. All three size variants came in 3 different dial colour variations; black, blue and brown. In 2018, Breitling re-vamped the Superocean Heritage line once again by introducing the chronograph and non-chronograph versions in 44mm, along with a 42mm gold and stainless steel version. The three different sizes (42mm, 44mm, 46mm) offer a whole lot of flexibility to the general public to be able to match almost an...
Hodinkee
Holy horology, here we go again!
Quill & Pad
Ever since the Bulgari Octo Finissimo premiered in 2017 George Cramer has been very attracted to the model, but was also afraid that the case would be too large for his wrist. But in Paris one day, he tried an Octo Finissimo on in the Bulgari boutique and was immediately convinced that it was perfect and also very comfortable. But he then had to decide which version was his favorite.
Hodinkee
About as much gold as one can fit under the radar, or indeed, under any shirt cuff.
Hodinkee
Back in black.
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