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Bienne

Bilingual Swiss city; HQ of Rolex (1919), Omega (1880), Tissot, Movado, Mido, ETA SA, Nivarox-FAR.

Hugues’ Accomplishment: The Story of Hugues Bürki SJX Watches
Longines can actually trace their Feb 9, 2026

Hugues’ Accomplishment: The Story of Hugues Bürki

Nestled in the Jura Mountains, La Chaux-de-Fonds has been a cradle of Swiss watchmaking ever since its watchmaking school, the Technicum, opened in 1865. For aspiring watchmakers, the climax of their training was traditionally the creation of a montre école – or what’s known as a school watch. This is the story of Hugues Bürki, a Technicum alumnus, who built what would become a record-breaking school watch, and who would later make horological history as a movement engineer. Hugues Bürki. Image – author The Technicum The watchmaking school of La Chaux-de-Fonds was founded in 1865. In its early days, the school occupied rooms inside the modestly named ‘Technicum’, a local vocational-technical school. By 1885, the school’s own building had been inaugurated, yet the name Technicum stuck. In 1933, in the wake of the global economic crisis, the nearby watchmaking schools in La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle were merged to form the Technicum Neuchâtelois. The Technicum in the 1960s. Image – author It demands attention that both divisions of the Technicum Neuchâtelois had a particularly strong focus on high-precision chronometry at the time compared to other watchmaking schools in Switzerland, which specialised in other domains, such as the construction of complications and traditional finishing techniques. In fact, some of the innovations in chronometry we associate with brands like Longines can actually trace their roots to the Technicum Neuchâtelois, including...

A Hands-On Comparison of the Omega Speedmaster Black and White, White Dial, and Classic Moonwatch Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Black Feb 6, 2026

A Hands-On Comparison of the Omega Speedmaster Black and White, White Dial, and Classic Moonwatch

There are certain “easy wins” with watch enthusiasts that brands rely on. Put a line of red text on a black dial diver, and you’ll get some smiles. Add a micro-adjust to your clasp, and you’ll avoid some angry emails. Drill your lugs, and… well, I at least will be excited. And when it comes to chronographs, a sure-fire way to get some attention is to invert your sub-dials. Yep, though it has been done countless times, “panda” dials still get the thumbs-up from us nerds. So, it was no surprise that the recently released “Black and White” Speedmasters (which, to those of us from NYC, brings to mind a certain iconic cookie before a watch dial) were received with much excitement. Take one of the most celebrated watches in production, give it a dial treatment that is hard to mess up, and, unsurprisingly, you have a hit. Well done, Omega. Yeah, the Speedmaster Black and White is very nice looking To make matters more exciting, despite the many, many, many versions of Speedmasters over the years, Pandas are not common among them. I’m no Speedy scholar, so my internal reference archive isn’t complete, but having been the occasional Speedy customer, I know that pandas were few and far between, usually limited, or precious metal, and rarely a “reverse” or “evil” panda (white sub-dial on a black surface) in form. That this new model is available in steel and not limited actually makes them special, by not being special. The dilemma, if you can call it th...

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V LS Ceramic Worn & Wound
Urwerk Introduces Feb 6, 2026

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V LS Ceramic

The Urwerk UR-100 has become one of my favorite designs in high end independent watchmaking. Whenever I encounter one (a rare event given the brand’s annual production of just around 200 watches total) I’m blown away by the way it distills the essence of the brand into a completely wearable, compact, package. I’ve always been a fan of the Urwerk philosophy, but until I tried on a UR-100 I always felt the watches themselves might be too ungainly or oddly shaped for me personally. There’s something about this case though, mostly its impressive thinness, that makes it feel like a “normal” watch on the wrist but still something otherworldly when you look down to check the time. That, to me, feels like a sweet spot.  The latest from Urwerk brings a new watch into the UR-100 lineage with the UR-100V LS Ceramic. This is effectively a new variant of the original UR-100V LS (short for “light speed,” which we’ll get to momentarily) that appeared in 2024. The new watch features a white ceramic case, a first for the brand and more complex than it first appears, and the same whimsical ideology of its predecessor, and many other Urwerk watches, which are all in one way or another a commentary on timekeeping itself.  All Urwerks (well, almost all) share a common wandering hour satellite time telling mechanism that has become their calling card. It’s actually a rather mechanically elegant way to tell the time, basically with a wandering hour “pointer” to a fixed ...

IWC Introduces a Pair of Limited Edition Pilot’s Watches in Collaboration with F1 Driver George Russell Worn & Wound
IWC Introduces Feb 5, 2026

IWC Introduces a Pair of Limited Edition Pilot’s Watches in Collaboration with F1 Driver George Russell

Recently, over the course of a brutally cold weekend here in Concord, NH, I rewatched last year’s F1, the Brad Pitt vehicle that is essentially a very long advertisement for the sport for which it is named. It’s a fun movie, and even though it was made for giant screens and deafening surround sound systems, it played just fine at home as a fairly standard sports movie. I had been wanting to give the film another look as it was recently nominated for Best Picture at the Academy Awards (a bit of a surprise to most observers) and figured it was time to see how it stood up to a repeat viewing. The answer is that it’s still really enjoyable popcorn fare, but my one real reservation is in the almost nonstop product placement.  IWC watches factor heavily into the texture of the film itself. If you look closely, you can see a watch or the IWC logo in more scenes than not. It speaks to the importance of the relationship between IWC and F1, so I was not at all surprised when I learned that IWC’s first big novelty release of the year would be a pair of watches representing a collaboration between the brand and F1 driver George Russell, who races for the Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS team, which IWC has had a longstanding relationship with.  Unlike previous watches IWC has released as part of their partnership with Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS, this one is tied to a specific driver. Rather than the teal color highlighted in those earlier watches, these feature a more traditional blue hue, ...

A New Batch of Worldtimers from Farer Have Arrived Worn & Wound
Farer Have Arrived It’s hard Feb 5, 2026

A New Batch of Worldtimers from Farer Have Arrived

It’s hard to keep track of all the watch trends that come and go over a calendar year, and while it’s not been as smoking-hot-popular as skin divers and GMTs, the worldtimer complication has been enjoying some time in the sun recently. Joining the herd is the Farer World Timer 2026 Collection, which beefs up an already-impressive (and early to the trend) lineup with three new colorways. In fact, the Farer World Timer was first launched in 2019, well before recent additions that have piqued the watch world’s interest, and it’s that confident backlog that has allowed Farer to introduce three new pieces with a level of design refinement that other relative newcomers may lack.  Before we dive into the new colorways, let’s get the basics down: each Farer World Timer sports a 39mm 316L stainless steel case (and varying finishes depending on the model) with an impressive 11mm of thickness, and a democratic 45mm lug-to-lug measurement. One crown, inset with a Farer “A”-embossed bronze cap, sits at the 3 o’clock position, while the other, wearing a World Timer marque, rests at 10 and operates the outer rotating bezel. The crowns, domed sapphire crystal, and exhibition caseback ensure a decently robust 100 meters of water resistance. Inside, a Sellita SW331-2 Elabore movement should guarantee reliability, accuracy, serviceability, and a 56-hour power reserve. A bespoke Farer rotor is color-matched to the central 24-hour disc on the dial.  Speaking of that disc, it...

Roaring Twenties Marque Niton is Born Again SJX Watches
Feb 5, 2026

Roaring Twenties Marque Niton is Born Again

A long defunct Geneva watchmaker, Niton has been revived and is getting off the ground with the Prima, a historically-inspired jump hour watch. With some serious tricks up its sleeve – the proprietary calibre is surprisingly excellent – the Prima might just be the right new-meets-old infusion the watch market needs.  Initial thoughts Bringing back defunct but once illustrious watch manufactures is not a sure thing, and Niton might be more challenging than most given the lack of name recognition. The brand, however, did have a glorious, if short, history. The introductory model of the recently revived brand is the Prima. While the watch takes its inspiration from pieces made in the 1930s, the overall impression is more evocative of retro-futuristic 1960s. Rounded typography, thick indices, and a concentric pattern on the central minutes disk all make for a look that’s equally comforting and refined.  Arguably the best surprise is the in-house NHS01 inside the Prima. A square movement developed in-house, the ambitious, hand-wound NHS01 integrates the jump hour complication with the in-line minutes disk and small seconds display, all while bearing the coveted Poinçon de Genève. Seeing a small independent brand earn the demanding hallmark for its first run of pieces is nothing short of amazing. Both versions of the Prima sit at under the CHF50,000 mark, which places the model in the upper echelons of pricy independent time-only watches. However, one might argue the P...

Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro with the Neo Frame SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro Feb 4, 2026

Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro with the Neo Frame

Ahead of its much anticipated Watches & Wonders return, Audemars Piguet (AP) has reached deep into its archives for what in past years would have been a [RE]Master model. But now AP has renamed its vintage reissues, and it is the Neo Frame Jumping Hour that takes inspiration from a similar guichet model from 1929. This perfectly timed launch comes at a time of renewed interest in the digital display format. Initial thoughts Each time an established brand launches a completely new collection, the public response can be either positive (think Rolex Land-Dweller) or underwhelming. AP has come face-to-face with this in the past with the Code 11.59, which was bold but not well received initially (though much of the early criticism can be chalked up to cynicism). That experience hasn’t stopped the brand from continuing to diversify its portfolio away from the Royal Oak, and the latest effort capitalises on the growing interest in guichet watches. In doing so, AP reimagines an obscure piece from its own past, adding strong touches of modern design to create something with a more distinctive visual identity than one might expect from a simple jumping hours watch. Though the Neo Frame nomenclature might take a while to enter the vernacular, the guichet design feels like it’s coming to market at the right time. Ironically, the sleek profile of the Neo Frame’s case looks much like a sports smart band - albeit much glossier. Specifically, the way the polished black face connec...

Photo And Video Report: Speedy Tuesday Event In Hong Kong Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Feb 3, 2026

Photo And Video Report: Speedy Tuesday Event In Hong Kong

On January 13th, we hosted our first Speedy Tuesday event for 2026 in Hong Kong. With about 80 guests, we celebrated the day that became synonymous with the Omega Speedmaster in the world of watches. Since 2013, we’ve been organizing events worldwide for collectors and enthusiasts of Omega’s most famous chronograph. Our second Speedy Tuesday […] Visit Photo And Video Report: Speedy Tuesday Event In Hong Kong to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 16204XT Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Feb 3, 2026

Introducing – The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 16204XT

We closely and thoroughly examined the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in steel (16204ST) when it was introduced for the RO´s 50th anniversary, as the model has become a reference for how Audemars Piguet approaches the skeletonisation of an icon. Since then, it has been followed by precious metal executions in white gold (16204BC) and yellow gold (16204BA). […]

First Look – Norqain Adventure Chrono 41mm NHL, The Official Watch of the Hockey League Monochrome
Norqain Adventure Chrono 41mm NHL Jan 31, 2026

First Look – Norqain Adventure Chrono 41mm NHL, The Official Watch of the Hockey League

Norqain‘s relationship with ice hockey is quite natural. From the very beginning, part of the brand’s image has been shaped by the sport through the involvement of former NHL All-Star and Stanley Cup winner Mark Streit, Norqain co-founder. What started with close ties to players and the NHLPA is now taking a decisive step forward, […]

Who Was Raymond Weil? Fratello Talked To His Grandson To Learn More About The Brand’s Founder Fratello
Raymond Weil Jan 31, 2026

Who Was Raymond Weil? Fratello Talked To His Grandson To Learn More About The Brand’s Founder

He might not have been a watchmaker by training, but Raymond Weil (1926–2014) did start an eponymous watch brand. Remarkably, he did so at the age of 50 in 1976. The timing is defiant. Cheap quartz watches were already wreaking havoc on the Swiss watch industry, and a man in his 50s, especially back then, […] Visit Who Was Raymond Weil? Fratello Talked To His Grandson To Learn More About The Brand’s Founder to read the full article.

Introducing OraOrea by Zach Starr Weiss Worn & Wound
Jan 30, 2026

Introducing OraOrea by Zach Starr Weiss

Hey, this is Zach Weiss, co-founder of Worn & Wound. As I’m sure you know, I am very into watches. I have been wearing them since a young age; they sparked my interest in design, leading me to pursue a degree in the topic, and, of course, to eventually co-found Worn & Wound in 2011. Since 2011, that interest has turned into an obsession (and career) that permeates my waking, and sometimes dreaming, life. Now, after nearly 15 years in the industry learning about, writing about, talking about, and designing watches, I’m ready to do what I’ve always dreamed of: launch a watch brand of my own. Dear readers, friends, and colleagues, it is with the utmost excitement that I announce the launch of an independent watch brand I created: The journey to get to this point began in late 2023. Over the years, I’ve designed countless watches that have gone unseen; created in my free time, drawn up on my computer. Some were just loose sketches that took an evening; others were fully fleshed-out concepts formed over months or longer. With my 40th birthday just over the horizon, I took stock of where I was in life and decided it was time to put theory into practice. The first challenge was a name. After a process of losing sleep, endless perusing of thesauruses, deep soul-searching, generating list after list – and legal fees – I landed on OraOrea (pronounced aura-aurEEya). The inspiration for the name was a genuine experience. On a late afternoon walk, working on names in my hea...

Speedmaster Reduced vs. Speedmaster Professional: Comparison Review of Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 30, 2026

Speedmaster Reduced vs. Speedmaster Professional: Comparison Review of

The Omega Speedmaster is among the heavyweight champions of the watch world. For so many out there, it's the entryway into the enthusiast community, a jumping-off point before taking the plunge into watches as a hobby, and the Speedmaster continues to be one of the most recognizable names in the industry. Today, we’re going to get a little more granular on the subject and put two iterations of the icon, which have been the subject of much debate, head-to-head: the Speedmaster Reduced and the classic Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. Down below, I’ll set up the scene with a little history lesson, and then break down the key similarities and differences between the two to keep in mind.   [toc-section heading="History and Context"]  As one of the legends of watchmaking, the story of the Speedmaster is one often told and retold, so I will keep things quick and to the point here. If you want to go more in-depth on its backstory, feel free to break away from this article and head to our complete guide to the Speedmaster here. A symbol of the Space Race era, the Omega Speedmaster is most well-known for its role on the Apollo 11 mission in 1969, which officially made it the first watch to ever be worn on the Moon. It’s the watch that’s been aboard all six of the moon landing missions, thus earning the “Moonwatch” title once and for all. Taking off from its original motorsport-oriented intent to be the chosen watch of space exploration, the key DNA of the Speedmast...

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 38mm Review Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Jan 29, 2026

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 38mm Review

Blancpain is the world’s most historic luxury watchmaker, with nearly 300 years of uninterrupted production. It’s also largely credited with establishing the blueprint of all modern diving watches with its Fifty Fathoms. The formula for the undeniably iconic collection has been largely unfussed with since it forever changed the watch world in 1953. But in recent years, we’ve seen the brand more willing to evolve with the times and expand its staple diver to be more wearable, and more appealing, so a broader scope of watch wearers. The most significant evidence of this change has been the introduction of the most scaled-down take on the line at 38.2mm last year, answering the call for more versatile sizing that many enthusiasts (especially those, like me, with smaller wrists) had been rallying for for years. Down below, I’m going to walk you through why this is such a big deal for this icon of watch history, the key details of the scaled-down Fifty-Fathoms, and some food for thought to keep in mind before trying it on yourself.  [toc-section heading="History and Context"] Given that we have a complete guide to the Fifty Fathoms collection on our site already, I’m going to keep this section as quick and to the point as I can. I’m also going to hone in on the Automatique sub-collection, as it's the most relevant to our purposes here, and has the most verisimilitude to the original diving archetype in its design language.  Though many brands were experimenting wi...

Astor+Banks Launches the New Terra Scout, a Contemporary Take on the Classic Field Watch Worn & Wound
Jan 28, 2026

Astor+Banks Launches the New Terra Scout, a Contemporary Take on the Classic Field Watch

It’s hard to believe, but Astor+Banks has been around since 2012. That means the brand has seen the incredibly rapid growth of the microbrand watch scene from the inside, and has also been around for some of the bumps in the road that naturally occur as any community expands and changes. Their longevity in the industry is easy to understand when you zoom out and look at how brand founder Andrew Perez has positioned his brand over these last several years, with a series of thoughtful, consistent releases that build on each other gradually. The latest, the Terra Scout, is a new take on the classic field watch as seen through A+B’s perspective, which increasingly involves heavy doses of lume and a more unapologetically contemporary vibe. New takes on the field watch are always a bit of a gamble. It’s such a durable and simple platform, if you make too many changes or adjustments, you begin to bury the very nature of what it’s supposed to be. But it’s also kind of boring to simply recreate the same format over and over again. Recently, I’ve appreciated Aera’s bizarro take on the genre in their M-1 Blackbird, and the Terra Scout reminds me of that watch somewhat. Not in its aesthetic (it’s clearly completely different) but in approach. That’s very intentional on Perez’s part. “I like to get feedback at shows like WindUp and wear the watch for a while before I decide to bring it to market,” he told me over email. “In this case, it took longer than expec...

Hands-On With The Redesigned Maen Hudson 38 MK5 Fratello
Maen Jan 28, 2026

Hands-On With The Redesigned Maen Hudson 38 MK5

Working in this industry, I sometimes find it strange how I can go for so long without trying a watch that has been available for years. That’s the case with the Maen Hudson diver. The Stockholm-based brand with Dutch roots first introduced the Hudson in 2018. The modern dive watch has evolved, and almost eight […] Visit Hands-On With The Redesigned Maen Hudson 38 MK5 to read the full article.

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Omega Speedmaster is Still Out of This World Worn & Wound
Longines Wittnauer Jan 27, 2026

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Omega Speedmaster is Still Out of This World

A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping.  In the early 1960s, NASA realised astronauts needed reliable, tough wristwatches for space missions, especially for tasks outside the spacecraft like on the Moon. So, NASA secretly bought several chronograph-type watches off the shelf. They tested watches from Omega, Rolex, Longines-Wittnauer, and perhaps a few others under extreme conditions. “Space: the final frontier. These are the voyages of the starship Enterprise. Its 5-year mission: to explore strange new worlds, to seek out new life and new civilizations, to boldly go where no man has gone before.” These were the immortal words of Captain James T. Kirk, of the Star Ship Enterprise, played by William Shatner, in the hugely popular series, Star Trek, first broadcast in 1966. Today we are still fascinated with space travel and the extraordinary developments that have impacted on all of our lives since Mankind first set foot on the Moon on the 21st July 1969.  It is often stated that the technology that took Apollo 11 astronauts, Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin and Mic...

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt ExP-02, Showing Off their In-House Dial Making Capabilities Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar Jan 27, 2026

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt ExP-02, Showing Off their In-House Dial Making Capabilities

One trend in the microbrand/small independent category that I’m glad to see more of already in these early days of 2026 is brands doing more on their own, in-house. Those words, “in-house,” have developed an almost toxic reputation in some circles as they’ve been used liberally to imply a level of craft or development that is not really there when you strip away all the marketing talk. But a handful of brands are taking it back, using it to designate certain manufacturing processes that they’ve taken ownership of over overseas factories. Oak & Oscar has just announced a new watch, the Humboldt ExP-02 that reflects some of the ten year old brand’s new manufacturing capabilities in an exciting and unique way.  At a glance, you could be forgiven for thinking this is an ordinary version of the Humboldt, Oak & Oscar’s “classic adventure watch.” Subtly, however, it shows off real watchmaking skill and a willingness on the brand’s part to experiment with new techniques.  The centerpiece of the ExP-02 is the dial, which keeps the familiar sandwich style construction that Oak & Oscar is so well known for, but refines it and personalizes it for this piece. Every aspect of the dial manufacturing is done to a very high level in the Oak & Oscar workshop, using new watchmaking equipment that the brand has invested in specifically to create unique components for watches like the ExP-02.  According to Oak & Oscar, the rehaut and main dial plate are both cut from alu...

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Humboldt ExP-02 Fratello
Oak & Oscar Jan 27, 2026

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Humboldt ExP-02

It’s been nearly a year since we’ve heard from Chase Fancher and the team at Oak & Oscar. Here we are, though, in late January with an exciting, albeit highly limited, new release. Hopefully, the Humboldt ExP-02 foreshadows an increased level of in-house production capability. For now, let’s take a look at the watch! I […] Visit Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Humboldt ExP-02 to read the full article.

Face Value: Why Painting on Watch Dials is Art SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Masterpiece Jan 27, 2026

Face Value: Why Painting on Watch Dials is Art

Fine watches have pulled double duty as decorative objects since before the invention of the hairspring in 1675. In this sense, one could almost argue that watches have been linked to art since before they were even watches in the modern sense. This relationship emerged early in part because both types of objects were made primarily for the same clientele: wealthy elite in Europe and elsewhere. Though art and watches exist for different reasons, they are both often created with eternity in mind. The noble materials and timeless designs of many fine watches, especially those of the quality that would normally be paired with a work of art, also help justify the painstaking (and costly) work of artisanal decoration, which can, in some cases, take more than a year for a single work of miniature art. Introduction to miniature painting Of all the forms of decoration that have been applied to watches, miniature paintings are an especially important genre. Historically, these miniature masterpieces have been produced primarily in enamel, though acrylic paint is increasingly used today. Much has been written about the art of miniature painting, and it would not be an exaggeration to call it a dying art, since the number of living practitioners seems to have rarely exceeded half a dozen at any given time over the past century. Vacheron Constantin’s Masterpiece on Your Wrist programme is a partnership with the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York that allows customers to commissi...

Audemars Piguet Inaugurates Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Inaugurates Arc Manufacture Jan 26, 2026

Audemars Piguet Inaugurates Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus

Audemars Piguet (AP) has formally inaugurated the Arc Manufacture in its historical home of Le Brassus. Designed by de Giuli & Portier of Geneva, the 23,700-square metre building will accommodate 700 employees under one roof - a number that would have been almost unheard of in the days of the historical établissage system. It connects to, and partially wraps around, the existing Manufacture des Forges, which was completed in 2008 and housed around 300 employees - an impressive figure for its time. The expanded manufacture should ultimately help boost production, especially considering it was designed with Industry 4.0 in mind. In other words, it’s a smart factory. This includes a Goods-to-Person (GTP) automated sort and retrieval system which uses 66 robots to pick the needed components, which are then delivered by robotic shuttle. While such systems are already used by high-volume luxury watch brands like Rolex and Omega, few haute horlogerie brands have the volumes to justify such an investment. According to AP, the GTP system saves an average of 15 seconds per operation. But more than scale, the new manufacture should deliver higher quality of product – namely superior reliability and less defects – across AP’s offerings. Like other new manufactures of its type, the Arc is extremely energy efficient as well thanks to 321 metres of electrochromic glass, which can automatically change opacity to regulate the amount of light, and heat, allowed in. The building...

The 25 Best American Watch Brands (2026) Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 23, 2026

The 25 Best American Watch Brands (2026)

"Made in America" is a label that is much rarer to find on products now than it was 100 years ago, and that is especially true when it comes to watches. Once a bustling industry in the U.S.A., watchmaking largely migrated away from its traditional American hubs in the early 20th Century to countries like Switzerland and Japan, which still import oodles of watches to the States every year. However, American watchmaking has been seeing a slow, somewhat quiet renaissance over the past couple decades as a new generation of trailblazing entrepreneurs, from all across the U.S., strive to bring the horological trade back to these shores. Each of them takes a slightly different approach; some, like RGM, make nearly the entirety of their watch, including the movement, in the U.S., while others, like Shinola, import the majority of components but assemble the watches in an American factory, providing dozens or hundreds of local jobs. Here we take a look at 25 notable American watch brands, spotlight their leading models, and briefly examine how "Made in America" each one really is.  [toc-section heading="RGM"] Founder: Roland G. Murphy Headquarters: Mount Joy, PA Notable Models: Pennsylvania Series 801, Pennsylvania Tourbillon, 801-A “Aircraft” “RGM” are the initials of Roland G. Murphy, the trained watchmaker and former Hamilton Watch Company technical manager who founded his own watch brand in Lancaster County, PA, one of America’s ancestral watchmaking centers, in 1992...

Introducing – L’Epée 1839 Reimagines its La Regatta Clock with Enamel Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Jan 22, 2026

Introducing – L’Epée 1839 Reimagines its La Regatta Clock with Enamel

For over 180 years, L’Epée 1839 has been one of the greatest specialists in high-end mechanical clocks, from traditional carriage timepieces to captivating, bold creations like the 1520-component Albatross and other time-telling objects developed in cooperation with MB&F;, cars and aeroplanes for Tiffany & Co., or an Imperial Hot Air Balloon for Louis Vuitton, to […]

Zenith Updates References Across the Defy Skyline Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Updates References Across Jan 21, 2026

Zenith Updates References Across the Defy Skyline Collection

Earlier this week we brought you news of the latest in Zenith’s ongoing Revival series, but the big news for the brand coming out of LVMH Watch Week is a big expansion of the contemporary Defy collection at all levels. As a certified Defy-head, this move has my full support. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: the Defy has long been my favorite sports watch line, full stop. I’m a huge fan of the way the modern Defy combines a funky, avant-garde design sensibility with real sports watch chops (these watches are truly built like tanks, and have been since the 1960s). The latest Defys to enter the collection span the breadth of Zenith’s range as a watchmaker, from the simple and straightforward to the highly exotic.  We’ll start with the simple. The Defy Skyline 36 has a pair of new variants, with silver dials joining previously issued versions in blue, ice blue, green, and pink. You can have your silver dialed Defy Skyline 36 with or without a diamond set bezel. As with earlier versions of the Defy Skyline in this size, the option for a diamond bezel reveals that Zenith hopes to market these watches to the women’s market, but 36mm is actually a great size for an integrated bracelet sports watch for just about anyone. Watches in this style tend to wear a little bigger than their dimensions would suggest, and there’s something inherently appealing and comfortable about a watch like this that’s a little undersized, anyway. Like other Defy Skylines, thi...

Introducing: Two New Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only Grafite And Marrone Watches In White And Pink Gold Fratello
Gerald Genta Jan 21, 2026

Introducing: Two New Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only Grafite And Marrone Watches In White And Pink Gold

Since I moved to Geneva last May, I started trying to figure out what the city is all about. I had been visiting the lakeside town for probably 20 years, but a visitor doesn’t get to experience what a resident encounters daily. It’s hard to define Geneva. Yes, banks, watchmakers, and international organizations, such as […] Visit Introducing: Two New Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only Grafite And Marrone Watches In White And Pink Gold to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Upsizes the “Glassbox” Carrera Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Upsizes Jan 19, 2026

TAG Heuer Upsizes the “Glassbox” Carrera

One of the big stories in watches over the last few years has been the evolution of TAG Heuer into a brand that is just a little more enthusiast minded than you might have given them credit for five or ten years ago. There’s always been a cult around the brand, of course, particularly when it comes to their historic vintage chronographs, but they had been tagged as a bit of a “mall brand” by some in recent years, and it’s been interesting to see how they’ve gradually worked their way out of that position. A big part of it has to do with the launch of the “Glassbox” Carreras back in 2023, which introduced a dramatic domed crystal paired with a curved dial for a look that played right into the hands of the vintage Heuer obsessed. The dials were clean and classic as well, and the sizing was a perfectly medium 39mm in diameter. This year, for LVMH Watch Week, TAG Heuer expands the Glassbox line with a selection of new chronographs in a slightly larger case, giving enthusiasts with larger wrists or who just might prefer a more contemporary vibe a solid option in this particular collection.  The case now measures 41mm in diameter, 47.8mm from lug to lug, and 14.17mm tall (so, the same height as the 39mm version). Two millimeters, as watch enthusiasts know, is going to make a significant difference in how a watch like this wears and appears on the wrist, so if you found yourself trying on the 39mm version and thinking it lacked a certain presence, the larger versio...