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Results for De Bethune

27,194 articles · 2,062 videos found · page 18 of 976

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First Look – The Forest Green Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is a Dress Watch to Kill For Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Jan 20, 2025

First Look – The Forest Green Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is a Dress Watch to Kill For

A Chopard L.U.C watch offering a perpetual calendar complication with a tourbillon regulator is not new to the series. In 2013, Chopard presented its L.U.C Perpetual T model, which was then followed by two extraordinary unique pieces in 2018, the “La Santa Muerte” decorated with the Mexican motifs and “Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac” in […]

There Is Nothing Left To Reintroduce, Or Is There? What About The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar IW3750 From 1985? Fratello
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Jan 15, 2025

There Is Nothing Left To Reintroduce, Or Is There? What About The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar IW3750 From 1985?

The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar IW3750 from 1985 is an important watch for IWC and the entire Haute Horlogerie universe post-Quartz Crisis. Master watchmaker Kurt Klaus built a perpetual calendar mechanism on top of an automatic chronograph, which reignited interest in complicated horology and made people look at IWC differently. The innovative watch brought […] Visit There Is Nothing Left To Reintroduce, Or Is There? What About The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar IW3750 From 1985? to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Doxa Sub 200T Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 200T Doxa Doxa Jan 2, 2025

Hands-On: the Doxa Sub 200T

Doxa, Doxa, Doxa. There’s a lot about the current incarnation of the brand to like and a lot that leaves us enthusiasts questioning what’s going on and why. Which honestly, is fine. It’s cool to see a brand experiment and find out what works for them, but a lot of people seem to expect a straightforward dive watch experience from the brand that draws from its strong history rooted in adventure and aquatic exploration. While I had some strong opinions, I did not “fill in the vacuum with my no-holds-barred opinion” (read Meg’s take on the Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds, it’s a good one). Clearly, the diamond-encrusted $9,400 take on this watch is not in my wheelhouse. But what about the $1,590 version that captures all of the classic Doxa charm in an extremely well-wearing package? It seems to have been overshadowed as of late by the diamond-laden version, but hopefully this hands-on can bring it back into focus a bit.  While I’m not a huge Clive Cussler fan (never read anything by the guy), I don’t have any Jacques Cousteau documentaries queued up on my Youtube, and most of my time spent in the ocean is standing on the shore in knee-deep water trying to catch a striped bass at the expense of sleep, I do appreciate a good dive watch. I used to own a Doxa Sub 200, which I really loved and still miss from time to time. Doxa can make a heck of a watch and they always nail the wearability factor in the 200 lineup. Let’s take a look at what makes this diver an excell...

An Ode to Origins with The New Casio G-SHOCK DW-5000R Worn & Wound
Casio G-SHOCK DW-5000R Jan 2, 2025

An Ode to Origins with The New Casio G-SHOCK DW-5000R

In 1983, Sally Ride became the first American woman in space, the final episode of the acclaimed television series MASH* aired, the members of rock band KISS were seen without their makeup for the first time, and the first Casio G-SHOCK, the DW-5000C, was released to consumers. An incredibly rare piece to find nowadays––especially in good condition without a crumbling band or shroud––this model has become an elusive collector’s item, practically unobtainable for the common hobbyist. Forty-one years later, Casio has just announced their modern redesign of the original 5000C in their new DW-5000R model. Throughout 2024, the brand released numerous watches in commemoration of their 50th anniversary like the GMWB5000SS-2, TRN50SS-2A, and GMC-B2100ZE-1A, but the faithful recreation of this model is sure to be a hit amongst both Casio enthusiasts and ordinary customers looking for a new but retro-inspired watch.  The DW-5000R is built with a stainless-steel case and “Shock Resistant” labeled screw-down case back, a rare sight on modern Casios and yet another callback to the company’s roots. The shroud and band are constructed of environmentally friendly yet durable bio-based resin. Its dial is arguably the most significant characteristic of these models, fit with the iconic brick backsplash, red outline, and yellow and blue lettering. Manufactured in Yamagata, Japan––within the same mother factory that produced the original DW-5000C–– “JAPAN” is feat...

The Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds: What Happens When You Shrink It, Pink It, and Bling It Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds What Dec 12, 2024

The Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds: What Happens When You Shrink It, Pink It, and Bling It

Late last month, Doxa – the reigning cushion case champ and many divers’ brand of choice – released a dazzling new line of Sub 200T references. Media coverage has been sparse. This isn’t really surprising, as the new drop is… a lot to take in. Even though many journalists in the industry appear to be reserving their judgment thus far of the new Doxa Diamonds, social media users are happy to fill in the vacuum with their no-holds-barred opinions. There seem to be a few discussions happening on various watch forums, but the real heartbeat of public opinion can be found amongst the Instagram comments on Doxa’s official brand posts.  In case anyone is removed from the world of the socials, allow me to pick a few gems for your reading pleasure: “This is an abomination.” “April fool’s territory.” And, my personal favorite, “Cousteau and Cussler are rolling in their graves.” These are found, of course, in between a punctuating handful of green seasick emojis that really work to tie together the whole sentiment. In sum, Doxa fans think this new series is a swing and a miss for the brand. The drop is clearly reaching for a different market segment than Doxa’s typical consumer base. Though the move into jewels may bring more female buyers into the fold, it’s important to mention that some of the models wearing the Diamonds watches in Doxa’s marketing materials are men. This indicates the new line is meant for all and shouldn’t be relegated to the d...

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Nov 4, 2024

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype

One of the most significant examples of contemporary watchmaking, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” will soon go on the block at Phillips. Consigned by the estate of the original owner – meaning it’s a one-owner watch for over three decades – the “15/93” prototype carries within it the magic of independent watchmaking to a degree that rivals the landmark timepieces like the George Daniels Space Traveller’s Watch. The history of this tourbillon is well known: it is the second wristwatch made by François-Paul Journe, and the first one he sold. In early 1992 he sold it to a Parisian collector for a price that in hindsight is profoundly ridiculous, but was probably an extraordinary price to pay for a watch like this at the time. The gentleman who bought it owned it for some 32 years and clearly wore it often. There is no doubt he understood what the watch represented, even years ago before it was valuable, because he retained all of the original documentation that came with the watch, including copies of the technical plans. To the late original owner of this watch: you have my respect and admiration. “Prototype” Although I describe this as a prototype, it more accurately one specimen of a small series of hand-made watches. This series formed the template for the later Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité that was produced on a larger scale, albeit only numbering in the dozens, initially by hand and then with more industrial met...

Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 Girard-Perregaux Oct 12, 2024

Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49

Girard-Perregaux has a history spanning over two centuries, and longevity justifies calling the brand a heavyweight watchmaker. “GP” might be in the shadow of “AP” and “VC,” but it more than deserves a light shining on it. There’s a long history of remarkable and unique complications, like the tourbillon with three gold bridges, and then […] Visit Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 to read the full article.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona vs. Zenith Chronomaster Sport: Head-to-Head Quill & Pad
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Head-to-Head Day Oct 7, 2024

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona vs. Zenith Chronomaster Sport: Head-to-Head

Day One for the Zenith Chronomaster Sport was January 21, 2021. And it seemed like everyone had the same reaction: “That is one aggressive Rolex tribute.” Tim Mosso thinks that the Chronomaster Sport is a distinctive product with its own identity and takes a look here at how it stacks up against the ever-popular Rolex Cosmograph Daytona.

The Doxa Sub 300T Gets a Destro Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 300T Gets Sep 17, 2024

The Doxa Sub 300T Gets a Destro Limited Edition

It’s kind of hard to believe, but in the long history of Doxa divers, they’ve never made a dive watch with a lefty crown. That’s a bit surprising only because we tend to associate Doxa with the manufacture of professional grade dive instruments in a way that few other watch brands can match, and certainly there are left handed pro divers out there who could have made use of a destro Doxa diver over the decades (say that five times fast…).  Well, it’s a nice time to be a lefty Doxa fan, as the brand has just announced the Doxa Sub 300T Professional Aristera, their first dive watch ever with a crown positioned on the left hand side. It’s a limited edition of 300 pieces, and it’s fitting that the first destro Doxa is a version of what most would consider their core, enthusiast focused diver.  Like other Sub 300Ts, this one is 42.5mm in stainless steel with a short 44.5mm lug to lug measurement. Of course we get the iconic orange dial (hence the “Professional” designation) as well as an aluminum bezel insert. It runs on a Sellita SW200-1 caliber with 38 hours of power reserve, and we can assume it’s been rotated and modified to accommodate the left hand crown position (the date remains at the 3:00 position).  As a left handed person, I’ve always been kind of fascinated with destro watches, even if I don’t personally see much utility in them. Like most southpaws, I wear my watch on my right wrist. And with a normal watch, the crown is positioned facin...

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Snake Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Aug 28, 2024

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Snake

Coinciding with Watches & Wonders Shanghai, Vacheron Constantin gets a head start on the 2025 Chinese New Year and releases two limited editions celebrating the Year of the Snake. An annual tradition now for the past 12 years, the brand’s richly decorated Chinese Zodiac pieces not only pay homage to China’s cultural traditions but highlight […]

MB&F;’s Affordable M.A.D.1 is Now Slimmer and Swiss SJX Watches
MB&F; ’s Affordable M.A.D.1 Aug 27, 2024

MB&F;’s Affordable M.A.D.1 is Now Slimmer and Swiss

Conceived as an affordable sub-brand of MB&F;, M.A.D. Editions has become a runaway success by making an MB&F;-esque design accessible. Now the concept has been further refined with the M.A.D.1S, where the suffix stands for slimmer, Swiss, and single cylinder. The case is thinner by almost 4 mm, and now contains a Swiss-made movement that indicates the time (approximately) on a single cylinder. Initial thoughts The original M.A.D.1 was a fun watch that was affordable but expensive, and extremely thick at almost 19 mm. The slimmed down version has sleeker proportions, and the same price tag, but offers comparatively better value. The M.A.D.1S is priced at CHF2,900, just like the original version. Like the original, the M.A.D.1S is priced well for a watch with a little bit of the MB&F; magic, but expensive for a watch of its build and movement. However, the M.A.D.1S is comparatively less expensive, and conversely offers a bit more value, because it has a slightly more upscale movement inside. Mad but more wearable Two versions of the M.A.D.1S are available, one with a blue dial and the other in purple. The blue is available to the public, while the purple is only for “Friends & Tribe”, namely associates of the brand and owners of MB&F; watches. Both will be sold via an online raffle, as is convention for the M.A.D. watches. Both editions are otherwise identical, with a case that’s substantially slimmer than the original M.A.D.1. While the original was almost 19 mm high, th...

Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Aug 27, 2024

Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips

The second wristwatch Francois-Paul Journe ever made and the counterpart to the similar example in the brand’s own museum, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” was made by Mr Journe in 1993, by hand naturally. It will be offered by Phillips at its 1990s thematic sale in November (that includes the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow”), accompanied by associated documents. One of three examples his tourbillon prototype, the watch has all of the telltale signs of a hand-made watch. It also serves as the design template that would later shape the signature F.P. Journe Tourbillon. One of the readily apparent details is the fact that the dial is actually the underside of the base plate. The actual dial, namely the guilloche register at three o’clock, is actually secured by screws on the base plate. With an estimate of over CHF2 million, the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon be sold at Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 that takes place on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President.  

In-Depth: The Prestige and Patents of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Arguably Aug 16, 2024

In-Depth: The Prestige and Patents of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date

Arguably the most prestigious Rolex wristwatch, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date was introduced in 1956 and has only ever been available in precious metals – with the exception of a handful of prototypes in stainless steel. From its beginnings the Day-Date had a particular significance in the Rolex catalogue. The brand’s advertising from the 1960s for the Day-Date carried the phrase “Men who guide the destinies of the world of the world wear Rolex watches”. It was also during this time that the now-familiar “President” nickname for the model emerged when American president Lyndon Johnson, along with several of his successors, were photographed wearing a Day-Date. The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date ref. 6611 of 1956 The Day-Date was the first wristwatch to indicate the date as well as day of the week spelled out in full, a technical feat at the time. In the near-seven decades since, the Day-Date has remained consistent in terms of design and function: the date sits in a window at three o’clock, while the day is displayed within the arc-shaped window at 12 o’clock. Though the dial layout has stayed the same, the mechanics behind the display have been refined and improved substantially over the years. Today’s models – namely the Day-Date 36 and Day-Date 40 – are powered by the cal. 3255. The movement boasts all of Rolex’s technical innovations, along with a double instantaneous calendar display, where both the date and day indicators jump instantaneously and s...

Imperial China’s “Seawater, River, Cliff” Inspires Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Continuing Aug 9, 2024

Imperial China’s “Seawater, River, Cliff” Inspires Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art

Continuing its recent run of watches dedicated to great art and ancient cultures, Vacheron Constantin (VC) now turns to the decorative symbolism of Imperial China. The Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbols “Eternal Flow” and “Moonlight Slivers” are a pair of elaborately decorated watches inspired by 海水江崖纹, or “seawater, river, and cliff”, a highly symbolic motif employed during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Executed in a variety of decorative techniques, the dials of the Métiers d’Art pair are subtle reinterpretations of the traditional motif. “Eternal Flow” is rendered in vivid cloisonné enamel and the more striking of the duo. “Moonlight Slivers”, on the other hand, is set with diamonds but presents a more restrained, stylised take on the pattern. “Eternal Flow” Initial thoughts VC has a good track record at reproducing art on its watch dials. The Les Cabinotiers “Thunder God” and “Wind God” is a prime example of that. The Tribute to Traditional Symbols are similarly successful, though each of the pair is distinct from the other. “Moonlight Slivers” is almost low-key with its dark blue enamel, though the diamond setting gives it a bit of glamour. It also feels more modern. At a distance the motif appears almost geometric and abstract, particularly in this monochromatic execution. “Moonlight Slivers” In contrast, “Eternal Flow” is full Technicolour with the Imperial robe motif in all its glory. It’s almo...

3 Reasons The Rolex Day-Date 40 Convinced Me: A Very Rolexy Rolex Discussion Quill & Pad
Rolex Day-Date 40 Convinced Me Aug 5, 2024

3 Reasons The Rolex Day-Date 40 Convinced Me: A Very Rolexy Rolex Discussion

Rolex had never called out to Joshua Munchow as a watch that he must have or that would be the pinnacle of his collection. He thinks that this is because of the downsides to it being the most widely known watch brand in the world: forgeries and overexposure abound. So what is it about 2015's Rolex Day-Date 40 that turned him into a convert? Read on to find out.