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670 articles · 89 videos found · page 18 of 26

The Arts and Forms of Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin alongside other enamelled works Nov 18, 2023

The Arts and Forms of Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong

After exploring the independents in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, our attention now turns to watches that focus on unusual aesthetics, namely timepieces defined by complex decoration or unusually shaped cases. Amongst the artisanal selection, here is one of Muriel Sechaud’s avian creations for Vacheron Constantin, alongside other enamelled works from the workshop of Anita Porchet. Muriel Sechaud’s rendition of Audubon’s birds And amongst the form watches is the Patek Philippe ref. 5013R-013, a tonneau-shaped grand complication in pink gold with a black dial, of which only three are known.  The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII takes place on November 24 and 25, 2023. Registration for bidding and the complete catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 859: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060 by Muriel Sechaud Renowned enamelist Muriel Sechaud collaborated with Vacheron Constantin to create a collection inspired by the illustrations of Jean-Jacques Audubon, a French-American artist, naturalist, and ornithologist. Audubon’s work, ‘Birds of America,’ served as the primary inspiration for this collaboration. The Swiss watchmaker, known for its commitment to craftsmanship and artistic expression, commissioned a series of cloisonné enamel dials to reproduce Audubon’s intricate bird illustrations faithfully. This artistic union reflects the fusion of horological expertise with the beauty found in natural history illustration. The current reference...

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Ressence Concludes Seddiqi Partnership with the Type 1 DX3 SJX Watches
Ressence Concludes Seddiqi Partnership Nov 17, 2023

Ressence Concludes Seddiqi Partnership with the Type 1 DX3

At this year’s Dubai Watch Week, Ressence and its Middle East retail partner, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, have unveiled their third and final edition – the Type 1 DX3. This unique timepiece puts a distinctive twist on the minimalist Type 1, featuring a dial inspired by Arabic geometric patterns, echoing the aesthetic of the pair’s past collaborations. Initial thoughts This limited edition for the Dubai retailer resonates with me – and is arguably one of the most outstanding recent watches from Ressence – illustrating the potential to blend modern aesthetics while grounding the watch in the region. It manages to stand apart from Ressence’s minimalist watches, which have been iterated in a multitude of variants to date. The DX3 sticks to the outline of the standard Type 1 Round, but its standout feature lies in the copper-tone dial that’s embellished with captivating rose motifs reminiscent of Islamic art and architecture, and further accented with Super-Luminova that glows green. The Type 1 DX3 retails for CHF23,600, will be limited to merely 35 pieces and accompanied by a copy of Arts & Crafts in Motion, the brand’s first book that’s published jointly with Seddiqi. Considering the dial decoration, this undeniably presents a more alluring proposition in contrast to the standard production models. However one can hope that Ressence will maintain the exclusivity of this design and refrain from replicating it later on. A cloisonné dial with Arabic patterns The DX3...

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Outstanding Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Nov 16, 2023

Outstanding Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ upcoming auction in Hong Kong begins on November 24 and as is now convention, the sale includes a diverse selection of independent watchmaking.  Among the highlights in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII is the F.P. Journe Coffret 38 – the collection of five watches with 38 mm steel cases made to mark the discontinuation of the brand’s historic case size. Each model in the set is significant in François-Paul Journe’s horological ascent, from the groundbreaking Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite to the meticulously no-frills Chronomètre Optimum, and here each watch is (relatively) accessible and sold as an individual lot. The auction features creations from other notable watchmakers in every price range, including Daniel Roth, Habring², Voutilainen, and a Harry Winston developed by Greubel Forsey. These watches invite exploration into the history and future of watchmaking, and some tell stories of craftsmanship and innovation that captivate.  The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII is scheduled for November 24 and 25. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain I in the sale is the second to be sold publicly in as many auction seasons Lots 815-819: F.P. Journe Coffret 38 set of steel watches In 1991, François-Paul Journe introduced his first wristwatch that had a platinum case 38 mm in diameter – large enough to be unheard of at the time. In comparison, the Patek Philippe ref. 5004 split-...

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An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW299 Full disclosure I Nov 12, 2023

An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299

Full disclosure, I have meant to have these two watches go head-to-head in battle on the site for quite some time. Fanboys like myself have long drawn comparisons between Rolex and Grand Seiko in an attempt to showcase how well-made and competitive the Japanese manufacturer’s offerings are in comparison to the behemoth that is The … ContinuedThe post An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H. Moser Introduces a Highly Complex Endeavour Limited Edition Combining Chinese and Gregorian Calendars Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces Oct 31, 2023

H. Moser Introduces a Highly Complex Endeavour Limited Edition Combining Chinese and Gregorian Calendars

Moser’s latest, in a somewhat under the radar way, is easily one of the most ingenious technical achievements in watchmaking this year. The Endeavour Chinese Calendar Limited Edition expands on the principles of simplicity behind Moser’s excellent perpetual calendar by integrating a Chinese lunisolar calendar with a display for the 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac and phases of the moon, along with a Gregorian calendar. It’s a dizzying amount of information to be combined, and is even more confounding when you consider that unlike the Gregorian calendar, the Chinese calendar doesn’t have any repeated cycles, which makes it impossible to create a true “perpetual” Chinese lunisolar calendar. The way H. Moser and their partners at Agenhor have gotten around this is impressive.  The Chinese calendar is based on the cycles of the moon, which means that months have 29 or 30 days (it takes the moon 29.53 days to orbit the earth). A total of 12 lunar months means that a lunar year lasts approximately 354 days on average, which is about 11 days shorter than a solar year as observed by the Gregorian calendar. This is the first hurdle in combining the lunar and solar calendars into one mechanism, but it’s even more complex than that. In a calendar that only observes lunar cycles, the months need to shift to keep pace with the seasons, with each month starting around 11 days earlier in every new solar year. This means that every two to three years, a thirteenth month is a...

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Bremont’s Refreshes the Supermarine S302 Worn & Wound
Bremont s Refreshes Oct 31, 2023

Bremont’s Refreshes the Supermarine S302

Bremont is launching a new generation of Supermarines with not one, not two, but three configurations. The headliner is a special edition created in partnership with freedivers and conservationists Ocean Ramsey and Juan Oliphant, while the other two are regular production models with new color schemes and materials. The Supermarine line has been a mainstay for Bremont, and this infusion of models looks to take it to the next level. Let’s get the specs out of the way: all three new references are 40 mm wide, 49 mm long, and 13 mm thick. Lug widths are a friendly 20 mm, and the cases are made of scratch resistant DLC treated stainless steel. Unidirectional ceramic bezels (more on that later) surround four-handed dials with dates at 3. A modified caliber BE-932AV provides 50 hours of power reserve, and water resistance is rated at 300 meters. All the Supermarines are Chronometer rated to the ISO 3159 standard. First up, the Supermarine Ocean. Limited to 400 pieces, this model is designed with respect to Ocean and Juan’s work with sharks and other endangered sea creatures. The bezel, dial, and integrated rubber strap are appropriately called “Thresher Grey,” and proceeds from each sale will benefit the “Save the Turtles International” charity. Aesthetically, the gray and beige tones work well with the orange text on the dial, rehaut, and GMT hand. Note that, like the S302 JET, the 24-hour bezel on the Supermarine Ocean is monochromatic. The watch can be configured ...

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Bell & Ross Looks to the Motorcycle World for their Latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Looks Oct 23, 2023

Bell & Ross Looks to the Motorcycle World for their Latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack

One of my favorite episodes of Seinfeld is “The Chicken Roaster,” the eighth episode of season 8. You probably remember this one: it involves a Kenny Rogers Roasters restaurant opening across the street from Kramer’s apartment, and eventually he switches apartments with Jerry to get some sleep (because obviously the big neon sign is keeping him up all night) which leads to some of the funniest moments in the history of the show (Jerry’s recollection of a late night phone call with Bob Sacamano will always stay with me). But the B-plot is great, too. It follows George and his saga with a Russian hat, intentionally left behind in the apartment of the woman who sold it to him, who of course he tries to date. This is a trick, he explains, to keep her interested. Like a jingle you can’t get out of your head. And that’s kind of how I feel about Bell & Ross. They have worked their way into my brain like a catchy pop song. They’re a mainstream brand that is capable of doing some truly weird stuff, and as someone who spends a lot of time observing and thinking about industry trends, I just find that fascinating. Their latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack, is squarely in the weird category, and a rare collaboration with an outside designer, Sacha Lakic.  Lakic is known primarily for being the founder of Blacktrack, a Luxembourg based maker of custom cafe racers and other motorcycles. The new BR 03-94 takes specific inspiration from his BT-06 motorcycle, which can be seen p...

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Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2023

Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast

This is less a recommended reading, and more so a recommended listening or viewing. A long time coming, schedules finally aligned and our Editor Zach Blass was able to join Peri and Ben, two thirds of the trio behind the burgeoning Wrist Check Podcast, to talk watches. Wrist Check explains: “Wrist Check is a weekly … ContinuedThe post Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A Week In Watches, Episode. 65: Seiko Prospex Welcomes New Land References; Baltic Changes Course Worn & Wound
Montblanc /Minerva Oct 15, 2023

A Week In Watches, Episode. 65: Seiko Prospex Welcomes New Land References; Baltic Changes Course

A Week In Watches returns with big news from Seiko, who revealed a pair of new Prospex references which celebrate the brand’s history in land-based watches. The pair of limited editions each pick up something special from Seiko’s history, starting with the SPB411 GMT, a watch that recalls the Navigator Timer of the ’60s, which was Seiko first GMT to feature a rotating bezel. The second is a revival of the Landmaster in celebration of its 30th anniversary, where Seiko has brought back the 3 dimensional compass bezel and blue gradient dial. Both work exceptionally well, and highlight the brand’s deep tool watch roots at their very best. Elsewhere we were thrilled to see a new release from Baltic this week, which shifted away from old-school-cool dive watches and put focus on classic field watches. The frame works brilliantly here with lumed applied numerals, a svelte case, and a trick crown that sits flush with the case wall. The watch boasts 4 different dials at launch, and is a welcome expansion of the brand’s refined sense of design. Finally, new releases from Nomos and Ming, as well as a collaboration between Montblanc/Minerva and Collective round out the news that’s caught our attention this week. Catch the full episode below for the run down, and be sure to leave a comment on your thoughts in the video for us to highlight in the next episode. Thanks to this week’s sponsor, Shinola, for their support. To commemorate 10 years of American design and manufact...

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REVIEW: Adding A Bit Of Sophistication With The Speake-Marin Ripples Original WatchAdvice
Speake-Marin Oct 14, 2023

REVIEW: Adding A Bit Of Sophistication With The Speake-Marin Ripples Original

If you’re after a sporty chic watch that will set you apart, the limited production Speak-Marin Ripples Original in black could be the out of the box choice! What We Love The ripple effect dialThinness of the caseWears extremely comfortable What We Don’t Bracelet clasp is tricky to undoLack of water resistanceNo lume on the dial Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 When it comes to the world of watches, the smaller independents often come second to the larger mass luxury brands. With the exception of a few high Haute Horology Maisons, many are overlooked by collectors and buyers alike. Partly due to the lack of mainstream brand presence, i.e marketing dollars, and partly due to the entry pricing of them, with many starting in the 10s of thousands of dollars. But for a good reason! Speake-Marin is one of these brands. The Maison is just 20 years young, and fiercely independent since the English/Swiss watchmaker was bought by an ambitious and ardent female entrepreneur, Christelle Rosnoblet in 2012. With it’s brand roots in England, yet now calling Switzerland home, the Maison’s pieces are developed, assembled and controlled in a fine watchmaking workshop, Le Cercle des Horlogers, which works hand in hand with Speake-Marin’s creation studio based in Geneva. The Speake-Marin Original Ripples Original Black Speake-Marin’s philosophy is simple, and boils down to three elements: All its collections are propo...

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Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fall Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mercator created Oct 2, 2023

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fall Auction

After delving into the notable complications in Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong auction on October 7, we shift our focus to the timepieces exhibiting a distinct artisanal touch, spanning the encyclopaedia of decorative techniques from cloisonné enamelling to wood marquetry. Several are exquisite examples of enamel crafted by the renowned artisans Anita Porchet and her eponymous workshop, along with a pocket watch with a miniature enamel made by Hélène May-Mercier for Patek Philippe. Another highlight is the commemorative Vacheron Constantin Mercator created to mark the handover of Hong Kong to China in 1997 that was the work of a Belgium husband-and-wife enamel workshop. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 2209: Vacheron Constantin Mercator “Hong Kong Handover 1997”  The transfer of sovereignty over Hong Kong from the United Kingdom to the People’s Republic of China was a significant historical event that brought an end to 156 years of colonial rule in the territory and marked the conclusion of the British Empire. To mark the handover, Vacheron Constantin created a special iteration of the Mercator. One of the brand’s best known models at the time, the Mercator set itself apart with a unique double retrograde display for the hours and minutes, with the top-of-the-line models having cloisonné enamel dials. While the initial Mercator editions portrayed entire continents or regi...

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A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More Worn & Wound
Tudor Oct 1, 2023

A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More

A Week In Watches returns this week with a look at a trio of divers that take their inspiration from the past, and apply in a thoroughly modern way. No faux lume or tropical dials in sight, prompting us to wonder if that trend is behind us. Divers from Oris, Tudor, and Seiko all paint a clear picture of a way forward that’s not a carbon copy of the past. You might say Seiko has always been ahead in that game, and their latest Prospex divers, which bring the 62MAS flavor into a tidy modern skindiver case that we’ve loved since it was released in 2020. If this is what we can expect more of, count us in. Elsewhere, Farer dropped a pair of new chronographs called the Chrono-Contempo with colorways inspired by two vibrant streets found in London. These are Farer through and through, with unexpected colors and a clean, modern design language. As usual, Farer nails the proportions here thanks to their use of the hand wound SW510M from Sellita. Finally, a collaboration between our friends at Fratello and Minase comes together for the second time, continuing a trend of subtle yet powerful dial executions from the pair. The latest is the M-3 Nori, and gets a dial inspired by Japanese seaweed, which comes together way better than you might expect. Here’s to the next one. The post A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Blancpain Turns to Precious “Bronze” for the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 SJX Watches
Blancpain Turns Sep 23, 2023

Blancpain Turns to Precious “Bronze” for the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3

The third release celebrating 70 years of Blancpain’s famous dive watch is military inspired but paradoxically paired with a 9k Bronze Gold case. Limited to 555 pieces, the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 combines the gold alloy with historical military elements such as the moisture indicator and a magnetic-resistant movement.  Initial thoughts  After the recent Blancpain x Swatch Fifty Fathoms, it is hard to look at this watch and not be instantly reminded of the yellow Pacific Ocean model. But putting that rather unfair comparison aside, this new celebratory limited edition has a few novel details which help elevate it above some of the brand’s more recent releases.  The pronounced crystal add to the vintage feel of the watch. Image – Blancpain. I like the addition of the moisture indicator on the dial, although the grey indicator clashes slightly with the gold and beige tones that define the rest of the watch, it helps anchor the piece in Blancpain’s military past. While I am not a fan of the colour of Bronze Gold as it appears in the images, nor do I like faux-patina in any situation, it can be said that the two seem to pair nicely here and compliment each other. The functionality of the movement is clear to see from the specs, and the overall aesthetic reflects the utilitarian inspiration of the watch. The details of the movement, however, reveal it to be finished well, including polished bevels on the bridges and chamfered spokes on the wheels. It is ...

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Louis Vuitton Announces Semi-Finalists for Independent Watchmaking Award SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Semi-Finalists Sep 19, 2023

Louis Vuitton Announces Semi-Finalists for Independent Watchmaking Award

The 20 semi-finalists of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives have been announced. An initiative started by the French luxury giant, the prize aims to reward the best independent watchmaking by supporting the winner through a grant and mentorship.  The semi-finalists represent the full range of talent from across the industry and world, with established names such as Strehler and Sarpaneva alongside relative newcomers such as Yosuke Sekiguchi. There is also a range of abilities in this list, from those who are making almost a complete watch under one roof, to those who conceive and then bring together craftspeople to execute. It is reassuring to see such a wide variety in styles and approaches being represented here. Selecting just five to move on to the finals will certainly not be an easy task for the panel of judges. The 20 semi-finalists are:  Tischkalender Sympathique – Andreas Strehler Tourbillon Grand Sport – Auffret Paris Project One – Barrelhand Ultralight 11G – Behrens Tourbillon Classique, Souscription Édition – Deprez Horloger Homage to Harrison One – Felipe Pikullik Part Time – Itay Noy L’Abeille Mécanique – John-Mikaël Flaux Arkhea – Khemea KS 05 Titanium Blue Aventurine – Kross Studio Persée Nuit – Maison Alcée Roots – Narbel & Co Black Hole Tourbillon – Ondřej Berkus Fundamentum – Oscillon RP1 – Régulateur à détente – Pagès Chronographe Rattrapante – Petermann Bédat 119C – Sarauer Horolog...

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Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Return to their Time Eater Concept with a Darker Sequel Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Sep 19, 2023

Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Return to their Time Eater Concept with a Darker Sequel

It’s no surprise that after the successful launch of the Time Eater, the viral collaboration between Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin that launched in April, that the two would attempt a follow up. In fact, not only is it not a surprise, it was expected by anyone who paid close attention to the marketing materials we saw earlier this year, which teased another release to come. Well, like the horror movie franchises that this collaboration sometimes evokes, the sequel has come quickly. The Time Eater II: From Dusk to Dawn, is a pair of watches that use the same basic design as the original Time Eater, but in a darker (literally and figuratively) execution. I don’t know if a “Halloween watch” is actually a thing, but given the aesthetic of the new Time Eater and the season we find ourselves in, it makes a strong case.  Like the first drop, this release sees two different versions of the watch in two different case sizes, released alongside one another. Instead of the silvery white dials of the first pair, here we have black (for the 39mm watch) and anthracite (on the larger 42mm version). Both have bright red minute hands that match the major aesthetic shift on these new Time Eaters: a truly gross bloodshot eye hour register. It’s paired with the same sawtooth seconds register at 6:00, and when everything is put together it certainly gives off a spookier vibe, making the original watches with hints of purple and green seem downright playful by comparison.  The ...

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21 Best Tissot Watches for Men, from Under $600 to $2,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Aug 20, 2023

21 Best Tissot Watches for Men, from Under $600 to $2,000

Founded in 1853 by the father-son team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, Tissot is today one of the largest Swiss watchmakers in the world, with a versatile and varied collection of timepieces for men and women, from dressy to sporty to high-tech, all offering one of the industry’s best value propositions across the board (every watch we showcase here comes in under $2,000). With such a breadth of options, it's difficult to compile a list of the standouts, but for this (admittedly very subjective) compilation of the 21 best Tissot watches we strove to include just about all of Tissot's major collections, with an emphasis on men's watches with mechanical movements, particularly spotlighting the variations on the proprietary Powermatic Caliber 80. (For those who find themselves enthralled by one or more particular models on this list, most are available right here at TeddyBaldassarre.com; just follow the shopping links.) TISSOT SEASTAR Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 Price: $1,075, Case size: 46mm, Thickness: 16.3mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 600 meters, Movement: Automatic Powermatic 80.111 Tissot's ruggedly attractive Seastar family of dive watches, which debuted in the 1960s, welcomed its most robustly engineered member in 2021. The ISO-certified Seastar 2000 entices deep-sea enthusiasts with its integrated helium release valve at 9 o’clock, unidirectional dive-scale bezel with en...

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[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 Aug 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention

The dive watch genre is rife with great watches, and many stick to a tried and true formula that was first devised in the early ‘50s with the advent of recreational diving. It’s evolved a bit over the generations, but what made for a great dive watch then, largely still makes for a great dive watch today. Their broad popularity stretches far beyond the bounds of the actual diving community, as the features that make a great dive watch also happen to make them great everyday companions for those that prefer life on dry land. But that doesn’t mean they all have to abide by the same set of rules.  In this Inside the Collection episode, I take a look at 3 dive watches that march to the beat of their own drum in some way, shape, or form, and eschew the established design codes of the genre. You’re probably familiar with one or two of these watches, as we’ve discussed two of them at length before (here, and here), but all three come together to say something important about my own collection, and how I view watches regardless of their label. The Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 seen here will be the subject of an upcoming Missed Review, in which we’ll further explore this era of the famous diver, and some of the ways the collection has diversified itself over the generation. This is watch that’s always found it’s own path, for better or worse, and not only does this specific reference represent something special within the collection, it represents somet...

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Review: the Zenith Defy Skyline in Black Ceramic Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Skyline Aug 4, 2023

Review: the Zenith Defy Skyline in Black Ceramic

For fans of the Zenith Defy, it’s practically impossible not to compare the new Skyline models to the now retired Classic references. As a self described Defy fan, I’ve found myself doing this on a routine basis whenever I get a chance to handle a newer reference. I’ve long held that the Defy, over the years, is pound for pound the very best sports watch line out there. The watches in this collection are adventurous in their design, inherently robust, and naturally distinctive in a sea of sports watches that kind of all look alike. From the very beginning, the Defy has been a trailblazer, something truly unique, but frequently overlooked in favor of watches that it clearly influenced along the way.  Zenith’s release strategy with the Defy almost begs for comparison between generations. The Defy Classic, after being issued in titanium with both solid and skeletonized dials, was made in a trio of ceramic models (black, white, and blue) with skeletonized dials. Similarly, the Skyline was introduced in steel first, was eventually given a skeletonized dial, and finally at this year’s Watches & Wonders we got a ceramic version on a full ceramic bracelet, with both the star motif dial seen here, and a skeletonized version similar to the one reviewed earlier this year by Blake right here. No colored ceramic Defy Skylines have been released yet, but it’s easy to see the similarities between Defy generations. There definitely appears to be a roadmap. And yet, after spen...

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[VIDEO] A First-Look at the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Aug 2, 2023

[VIDEO] A First-Look at the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph

We were thrilled to see Seiko return to the Speedtimer in Solar Chronograph form earlier this summer, recalling the design of the iconic Sportura of the ‘90s. The concept is a deconstructed chronograph, and Seiko has brought all the components under a single crystal with this newest Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph. There is a dizzying array of activity on the watch when the timer is brought to life, and in this video we’re breaking everything down in a first look. Keep an eye out for the full review coming soon.  The case and bracelet of the most recent Speedtimer could be called traditional in comparison to the original, making the somewhat large footprint quite wearable thanks to the curved and truncated lug design. Still, this isn’t a watch for the faint of heart. Switching modes is like putting a race car into full tilt, with all the needles neatly aligning at 12. This watch is capable of timing down to 1/100th of a second, and seeing that totalizer in action is otherworldly in the best possible way. There are four references of the new Speedtimer collection, two of which will be regular production models, with the other two enjoying limited edition status. The black on black dial, as well as the panda dial are welcome regular additions to the growing Prospex tool watch empire, while the other two examples bring a slightly different visual to the mix thanks to unique colorways and texture pairings.  At first blush, the new Speedtimer captures a bit of the ...

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Ulysse Nardin Review: A Complete Guide to the King of Marine Chronomet Teddy Baldassarre
Ulysse Nardin Aug 2, 2023

Ulysse Nardin Review: A Complete Guide to the King of Marine Chronomet

Since its founding in 1846, Ulysse Nardin has long been regarded as the standard bearer of nautical timekeeping, a historic watchmaking maison whose very name conjures up romantic images of seagoing adventure and oceanic exploration. However, here in the 21st century, Ulysse Nardin is also known in watch connoisseur circles as one of the most technically innovative and boldly experimental watchmakers on the scene, beginning with the bombshell introduction of the Freak in 2001. How did this intriguing brand achieve both these distinctions and how does it continue to pile up accolades in the modern era? Read on for a complete guide to the history, evolution, and diverse timepiece portfolio of today’s Ulysse Nardin. Foundations in Chronometry Like many inhabitants of Switzerland’s Jura Mountain region in the 18th and 19th centuries, Léonard-Frédéric Nardin took up the trade of watchmaking largely out of economic necessity, to supplement his family’s farming income during the cold, snowbound winter months. He passed that horological savoir faire on to his son, Ulysse, who proved to be an apt pupil and honed his own horological skills further under the tutelage of two of the region’s most talented and revered watchmakers, Frederic-William Dubois and Louis JeanRichard-dit-Bressel. In 1846, at the young age of 23, Ulysse Nardin (above) established his own watchmaking workshop in his hometown of Le Locle, where the eponymous company is still headquartered today. Ulysse ...

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Christopher Nolan’s Oppenheimer Features Carefully Curated Vintage Hamilton Watches, Sourced from Collectors Worn & Wound
Hamilton Watches Sourced from Collectors Jul 24, 2023

Christopher Nolan’s Oppenheimer Features Carefully Curated Vintage Hamilton Watches, Sourced from Collectors

Oppenheimer, the new film by Chrisopher Nolan, opened this weekend. And if there’s one thing we know we’re going to get with a Nolan film, it’s a very loud soundtrack. But if there are two things, the other is probably the use of a handful of Hamilton watches throughout. The director has forged a partnership with the brand going back to Interstellar in 2014 and Tenet in 2020. Both of those films used Hamilton watches that were customized in some way, and played integral roles in the telling of the story. For Interstellar, the “Murph” watch allowed Matthew McConaughey’s astronaut character to communicate through time and space with his daughter back home on the farm, thereby imparting secrets of quantum physics that would later save the planet (or something). And in Tenet, a Hamilton BeLOWZERO was custom fit with a backwards running timer, because, well, it would take too long to explain. But the point is, these watches played a real role in Nolan’s storytelling. They were props, but not just props.  A vintage Cushion B, Lexington, and Endicott, worn by Cillian Murphy in Oppenheimer Oppenheimer is a whole other kettle of fish, however. Unlike Tenet and Interstellar, Nolan’s latest is based on actual events, specifically the building and detonation of the first atomic weapons. Without sci-fi flights of fancy and what we anticipate will be some adherence to the historical record, there’s no need for the watches in the film to perform parlor tricks – they ...

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Roger Dubuis Combines the Inclined Balance and Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Richard Mille which Jul 21, 2023

Roger Dubuis Combines the Inclined Balance and Flyback Chronograph

One of the latest releases from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, makes the most of its openworked dial to show off a newly-developed calibre, the RD780, which combines an inclined balance wheel with an integrated chronograph. A complex movement with two patents pending, the RD780 is notably elaborate with unusual features like a digital minute counter and twin barrels. And technically-minded enthusiasts will also note the RD780 boasts diamond-coated silicon escapement parts, which are both wear- and magnetism-resistant. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current chronographs distinguish themselves through bold design and flashy technical features. While the style is outlandish, it is refreshing to see this unique approach to a chronograph design, particularly since the technical features are novel and interesting, such as the inclined balance wheel and column wheel, visible through the openworked dial. But the Excalibur chronograph’s technical merits are perhaps overshadowed by the design, which is excessive in a hyper-mechanical style. The chronograph’s dial is busy, even for an openworked dial. It is not easy to read, even when compared to what is being offered by the likes of Richard Mille, which is perhaps the closest comparison to the Excalibur chronograph. The Excalibur chronograph is priced at US$101,500, making it more affordable than the equivalent from Richard Mille, the RM 72-01. In fact, the Excalibur is half as expensive as the Richar...

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Using Your Time to Make a Difference: an Interview with Chris Baker Worn & Wound
Jul 19, 2023

Using Your Time to Make a Difference: an Interview with Chris Baker

Chris Baker is not the typical watch enthusiast we’re used to reading about. He’s not an actor, a titan of industry, or any sort of celebrity brand ambassador. He is, however, the type of person we need more of. Chris describes himself as a “homelessness and housing advocate and service provider.” In fact, he is the founder of The Other Ones Foundation (TOOF) in Austin, Texas, a nonprofit that offers humanitarian aid, case management and extremely low-barrier work opportunities to people experiencing homelessness.  You may know Chris from Netflix’s hit reality show, Queer Eye. He was the hero featured in season 6, episode 8. For those unfamiliar, Queer Eye is a feel-good show where five hosts come into the lives of extraordinary people who do and represent extraordinary things, but need a hand in claiming ownership of the incredible people that they are. This was my introduction to Chris. I connected with his story so much that I began following him on Instagram, and over the last couple of years he’s become a friendly online acquaintance. Eventually I found out that Chris is a watch enthusiast, so I reached out to him to have a conversation about his love of watches and where they fit into his life.  Chris comes off as a rocker who’s made his way around the block, cracking jokes, delivering a bit of snark in a gravel tone, evoking some 90s grunge vibes – I was waiting for him to croon “Black Hole Sun,” alas, it didn’t happen. Instead he explained t...

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What Its Like To Have A Holiday On Your Wrist With The New Tissot Sideral! WatchAdvice
Tissot Sideral! Over Jul 4, 2023

What Its Like To Have A Holiday On Your Wrist With The New Tissot Sideral!

Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been playing around with the new Tissot Sideral collection, and at first I wasn’t sure of what to make of them. But after trying them on and wearing them, I now get it! What We Love Bright colours really popSuper comfortable to wearTotally unique look What We Don’t Strap fastening systemBezel action is roughNot an everyday watch or for everyone Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 7.5/10 Initial Thoughts When I first saw the press release on the Tissot Sideral collection (Which we covered here), I wasn’t sure what to make of them. A colourful re-invention of a sports watch from 1971 with a regatta timer – would it work? The short answer is yes, it does! A fun and playful watch, these are not to be taken seriously. Whilst the original was a serious watch 50 yeas ago, the 2023 Sideral takes that seriousness and flips it on its head. The new Tissot Sideral collection – colourful and playful! At $1,550 AUD, these are not overly expensive pieces in comparison to the larger world of luxury watches where many pieces are now into the $10,000+ range. And I’ll go out on a limb here and say these are not entry level either, despite their price. Why? Because they’re not an everyday wearing watch, they are designed to have fun with, and in my opinion, this is a watch that even seasoned collectors can add to their collection for that reason. After having all three models for a couple...

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