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A. Lange & Söhne Refreshes the Triple Split in Style SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 7, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Refreshes the Triple Split in Style

When A. Lange & Söhne first introduced the Triple Split in 2018, it was an incremental improvement over the Double Split but still a landmark, being the first watch capable of recording twin elapsed times of up to 12 hours. Lange remains the only watchmaker to offer a split-seconds chronograph of this magnitude. And now at Watches & Wonders 2021 it is unveiling the Triple Split in a new guise of pink gold and a blue dial. Initial thoughts Interestingly, Watches & Wonders 2021 marks the first major watch fair where Lange has not introduced any new timepieces with either a silver or black dial. Instead, the new Lange models all feature bold dial colours that break away from tradition – and I’m all for it. The new Triple Split is a merely facelift of the original, which had a dark grey dial and white gold case that gave it an austere characteristic of Lange. In contrast, the new model sheds its predecessor’s sternness with the rich combination of a blue dial and pink gold case, allowing it to come across as significantly more contemporary. I really like the new look. It’s eminently striking, while also being intriguing as it’s an unusual colour combination for Lange, which typically makes its watches with either silver or black dials. I particularly like the rhodium-coloured sub-dials, that contrast distinctly against the blue dial. Regardless of colour, the Triple Split is a magnificently complicated watch, one of the most complicated that Lange produces. Arguab...

The 2021 Rolex Collection ranked from least to most surprising Time+Tide
Rolex Collection ranked from least Apr 7, 2021

The 2021 Rolex Collection ranked from least to most surprising

Rolex is known for incremental change so “surprising” is not really the brand’s forte. Having said that, the new range definitely contains some curveballs this year, both in terms of the Crown’s choices and a few unexpected pieces in particular. That’s why I decided to rank all of the new 2021 Rolex Collection novelties from … ContinuedThe post The 2021 Rolex Collection ranked from least to most surprising appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insight: The History of Rolex in Iran SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet are relatively new Apr 4, 2021

Insight: The History of Rolex in Iran

Despite their long-established global prominence, brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are relatively new to the Iranian consumer, even among the affluent sections of society – Rolex reigns supreme in Iran’s luxury watch market. The brand’s position as the most enduring luxury watch brand in Iran is likely stronger than in most other countries. Perhaps the truest reflection of this are the countless, tiny shops across the country that have windows filled with a bewildering variety of counterfeit Rolex watches – their number far greater than stores selling Casio and Seiko, the brands that probably sell in the greatest volumes. Rolex has a long history in Iran, one that’s been shaped by events in the country. The Rolex coronet has been an uninterrupted presence on the streets of Tehran since the early 1950s, making it a witness to much of Iran’s 20th century history. As many a watch collector would know, the Shah of Iran was a well-known patron of the brand, even commissioning a unique model, the Day-Date ref. 1831. Resembling an Oysterquartz with its angular case, the ref. 1831 was a run of just eight watches, all in platinum. Rolex was already present in Iran for some decades before, but having the Shah as a client help cement its unique position amongst the country’s governing class. An example of the Day-Date ref. 1831 with a burgundy “Stella” dial. Another example with a blue dial is pictured at the top of the article. Images – Phillips W...

Genus Bestows a Dragon on the Figure-of-8 Display SJX Watches
Urwerk so Genus Apr 3, 2021

Genus Bestows a Dragon on the Figure-of-8 Display

A young company founded just two years ago, Genus is all about exotic expressions of time. Though the brand is young, Genus cofounder Sébastien Billières is an industry veteran, having established a workshop that specialises in producing complicated movements for major brands exactly a decade ago. The brand made its debut with the GNS1 – essentially a time-only watch made ultra complicated by virtue of its unique time display – a snaking procession of pointers travelling in a figure of eight that create a dynamic tension unlike anything else. Genus has now taken the concept further with the GNS Dragon, which layers a miniature sculpture over the original in the form of a segmented gold dragon. Initial thoughts The rise of independent watchmakers with atypical time displays started two decades ago – personified by brands like Urwerk – so Genus is rather late to the game, but it still made an impressive entrance. The original GNS1 was a fresh perspective in a crowded arena, the very sort of diversity that makes this hobby fun. And the GNS1 is a serious watch in terms of quality and construction – it also did win the Mechanical Exception award at the 2019 GPHG. While the focal point is the intriguing time display, the movement finishing is excellent; not quite artisanal haute horlogerie like Akrivia, for instance, but nevertheless done by hand and done well, particularly in the genre of avant-garde watches. Made of solid 18k gold, the bridges have wide, polish...

5 of the best Grand Seiko Instagram accounts that you need in your feed Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Instagram accounts Mar 31, 2021

5 of the best Grand Seiko Instagram accounts that you need in your feed

Not all watch brands have a community around them. In fact, most don’t, which is a huge challenge for those brands to build a loyal following who are relentlessly passionate about their product. As far as relentless passion goes, Grand Seiko is one of the most well-loved brands on the planet when it comes to … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best Grand Seiko Instagram accounts that you need in your feed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Russian Custom Shop HoD Presents the “Guiding Star” SJX Watches
Mar 23, 2021

Russian Custom Shop HoD Presents the “Guiding Star”

A four-person workshop in Moscow, HoD Russia specialises custom watches at affordable prices. Because the team is made up of a sculptor, engraver, and two engineers, HoD’s offerings are diverse in style, with a focus the dial. Cofounder Vasiliy Avitisov describes the brand as specialising in “dials with high relief [made] from a variety of materials”. Amongst its recent project is the “Guiding Star”, commissioned by a watch collector based in Japan. Initial thoughts Conceived alongside the client, the Guiding Star is a good example of what HoD can do. The dial is minimalist in function, yet decorated and visually striking – and it is made in house, from raw material to finished product. The dial is made of an epoxy resin mixed and coloured in HoD’s workshop, and then machined into the dial disc. The purple contrasts against the hobnail guilloche sub-dial, while the client’s initials form the 12 o’clock market, a reminder that the Guiding Star is a custom watch. One of the joys of going full custom, so to speak, is being able to dictate even the smallest of details, such as the buckle. It’s been hand-engraved with the client’s initials flanked by a Japanese wave motif, or seigaiha. The personalised pin buckle With comparable watches starting from US$2,800, the Guiding Star illustrates the brand’s value proposition – time-0nly watches with a high degree of customisation. The affordability means that while the customisation can be elaborate, the ...

WATCH SPOTTING: Hublot, IWC and Richard Mille in Drive To Survive season three Time+Tide
Richard Mille Mar 20, 2021

WATCH SPOTTING: Hublot, IWC and Richard Mille in Drive To Survive season three

Season three of Drive to Survive dropped at 6pm Melbourne time on Friday March 19th and, if you were anything like me, then you were up until 4am watching the entire series in one sitting. Okay, so maybe you’re not that obsessed, but if you’re even a little bit like me then your eyes were … ContinuedThe post WATCH SPOTTING: Hublot, IWC and Richard Mille in Drive To Survive season three appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months Time+Tide
Mar 20, 2021

Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months

If variety is the spice of life, then whoever who signs off on the G-Shock limited-editions must have some extremely tingly tastebuds. The staggering range of influences that inform these pieces is like something out of a Dr Seuss fever dream, happily jumping from Borneo rainbow toads to NASA space travel. The sheer number of … ContinuedThe post Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Hublot Big Bang Integral King Gold is a watch that demands attention Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral King Mar 7, 2021

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Hublot Big Bang Integral King Gold is a watch that demands attention

Editor’s note: Andrew walked through the door of the Time+Tide office one afternoon in February and looked down at his wrist. “It’s a watch that can wear you if you’re not careful,” he said, gaze still fixed on the Hublot Big Bang Integral King Gold that he was wearing. A strong statement from a man … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Hublot Big Bang Integral King Gold is a watch that demands attention appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Unveils an Affordable ‘Grand Feu’ Enamel Time-Only SJX Watches
Louis Erard Unveils Mar 4, 2021

Louis Erard Unveils an Affordable ‘Grand Feu’ Enamel Time-Only

Best known recently for its collaborations with independent watchmakers – the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter sold out in a matter of hours – Louis Erard has been gaining recognition for making the style of high-end watchmaking affordable. Continuing with that focus, the brand has just announced the Excellence Email Grand Feu, a time-only wristwatch with a traditional enamel dial in a striking ivory hue. The grand feu, or fired-in-an-oven, enamel dial is fairly difficult to manufacture, resulting in a rejection rate that’s often over half. As a result, such dials are usually only found in high-end watches. It’s Louis Erard’s first use of a fired enamel dial, but true to form, the brand has retained its usual pricing positioning with a retail price of under 4,000 Swiss francs. Initial thoughts Given the frequent enthusiast gripe that watch prices (or values) border on the absurd, it would seem that true value propositions are hard to come by. There are a few exceptions – Tudor, Longines, and a few independents for instance – with Louis Erard increasingly being one of them. The brand offers an honest product, often with one or two elements historically found only in haute horlogerie, for not so much money. The Excellence Email Grand Feu is exactly that. And the dial is particularly appealing in ivory, instead of the usual bright white that is the favoured colour for fired enamel. Notably, the dial is made by Donzé Cadrans, the well-known enamel dial maker ...

Roger Dubuis Debuts the Excalibur Spider 39 mm SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Debuts Mar 2, 2021

Roger Dubuis Debuts the Excalibur Spider 39 mm

Known for its bold, big, and skeletonised watches, Roger Dubuis is paring back its extravagant style – just slightly – with two smaller, 39 mm versions of the Excalibur Spider. Limited to 88 pieces in each guise, the Excalibur Spider 39 mm retains the brand’s signature Celtic-cross flying tourbillon and the open-worked case of the lightweight Spider series. In addition to the twin Spider models, the new 39 mm size also includes an edition created in collaboration with Italian tyre maker Pirelli, the Excalibur Spider Pirelli that’s limited to just 28 watches. Initial thoughts With the same aesthetic found on earlier Excalibur watches, which were either 45 mm or 47 mm, the new 39 mm models are practical rather than innovative. And the RD510SQ skeleton flying tourbillon movement already exists, found inside the 36 mm Excalibur watches for women. What’s new is the 39 mm case, which makes the Excalibur substantially more wearable. The new case is undoubtedly a commercial decision, since the line between watches for each gender gets increasingly fuzzy. The Excalibur Spider 39 mm Pirelli More women now want larger watches, while men sometimes revert to case sizes that are more old-school 20th century than 21st. During the online launch of the 39 mm models, Roger Dubuis chief executive Nicola Andreatta noted that the 36 mm Excalibur watches were a surprise hit amongst male clients in Japan, despite being marketed as ladies’ watches. The 39 mm Excalibur Spider fil...

FEMALE WIND DOWN: That is not a typo, this is not a test. 5 new ways women can get into watches Time+Tide
Feb 25, 2021

FEMALE WIND DOWN: That is not a typo, this is not a test. 5 new ways women can get into watches

It’s a fitting time to publish our first ever Female Wind Down, in place of the usual Friday Wind Down. New websites are launching, collectives are forming and congregating on Instagram and Clubhouse, and the noise level questioning many of the fundamental tenets of the watch industry – stemming from the one that designates it … ContinuedThe post FEMALE WIND DOWN: That is not a typo, this is not a test. 5 new ways women can get into watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around Time+Tide
Feb 21, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around

Let’s not beat around the bush, I can see it too. The Gerald Genta influence is strong here, but in a somewhat butcher presence than other arboreally named references and porthole-alike wristwear. So before you start throwing punches, yes, certain design cues are notable in The Ark from Jacob Veil. But maybe those cues have … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 19, 2021

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt

While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...

Zenith Chronomaster Sport: A Chronograph That Reinvigorates The Senses Quill & Pad
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Feb 13, 2021

Zenith Chronomaster Sport: A Chronograph That Reinvigorates The Senses

It turns out that a year of quasi-isolation and abnormality can do things to a person, like make them write a poem about how they can’t think of what to write until they look at something new to spark inspiration. Luckily for Joshua Munchow, he happened to have such an item in his possession, at least temporarily: here he tests out the brand-new Zenith Chronomaster Sport fresh off the heels of its debut during the digital LVMH Watch Week 2021.

Joe Rogan gave his podcast guest a watch and it’s way cooler than you’d expect… Time+Tide
Jan 29, 2021

Joe Rogan gave his podcast guest a watch and it’s way cooler than you’d expect…

Joe Rogan has one of the most popular voices in the world. His podcast, The Joe Rogan Experience, gets close to 200 million monthly downloads and you can understand why. He’s had everyone who is anyone on the show, including a wide variety of celebrities, sports stars, scientists, politicians and more. Names like Mike Tyson, … ContinuedThe post Joe Rogan gave his podcast guest a watch and it’s way cooler than you’d expect… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Collin: Grower Champagnes With Serious Elegance Quill & Pad
Jan 28, 2021

Ulysse Collin: Grower Champagnes With Serious Elegance

It seems only appropriate that such a fascinating champagne Grower as Ulysse Collin has an even more fascinating backstory. David heading toward toppling a sparkling Goliath. For well over 200 years, since 1812, the Collin family had worked vineyards in the region and for a century of that time also worked as coopers. The family vineyards were first lost, then recovered, and now the firm goes from strength to strength, slowly but surely building the crown as king of the Grower movement.

Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was Jan 21, 2021

Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep

There’s a strong argument that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was the first real diver’s watch of its kind… and that’s because it was. It’s also true that the Rolex Submariner, which was also released in 1953, but after the Fathoms, did borrow some stylistic cues from the Blancpain. However, if any one watchmaker can claim … ContinuedThe post Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glenlivet Winchester Collection Vintage 1967: Ultra-Rare 50-Year-Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky Selling For $25,000 Per Bottle – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 17, 2021

Glenlivet Winchester Collection Vintage 1967: Ultra-Rare 50-Year-Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky Selling For $25,000 Per Bottle – Reprise

A blend of rare single malts – the youngest of which was filled in December 1967 – The Glenlivet Winchester Collection Vintage 1967 is non-chill filtered at cask strength. It offers drinkers a rich and fruity nose with notes of apricot jam, sweet ripe peaches, and a touch of toasted almonds. And it costs $25,000 per bottle. Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle explains why.

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar Jan 6, 2021

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar

Having revived the Master Control line early last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre largely translated models from the 1990s into the present day, save for one all-new watch, the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. The Chronograph Calendar features two complications that JLC long offered individually, but never combined before – the chronograph and triple calendar with moon phase. Taking its cues from the bestselling, 1990s collection of the same name, the Master Control is a gentleman’s watch in several flavours, all defined by a subtly retro style. Though a new model, the Chronograph Calendar retains the same style, while having a movement that’s the brand’s longstanding chronograph calibre with the addition of its well-known triple calendar module. The “Master Control” moniker originated from the fact that watches in the original collection were all tested for 1000 hours Initial thoughts Possessing a solid, workmanlike build and finish, the Chronograph Calendar sticks to the ageless Master Control look of the 1990s, more or less. While a couple of details could be improved – one reasonably expects more of the movement given JLC’s history – the Chronograph Calendar is good overall. The Calendar Chronograph in rose gold (left) and steel Visually, the Calendar Chronograph is a largish watch, though it doesn’t measure as such. At 40 mm wide and 12.05 mm high – close in size to the Rolex Daytona – the Chronograph Calendar is moderately sized, but the desig...

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Pioneer “Cure ALS” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jan 6, 2021

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Pioneer “Cure ALS”

H. Moser & Cie. has given its elegant take on the sports watch striking green livery in support of a good cause. The Pioneer “Cure ALS” is essentially an incentive for donations to Duke University’s research and treatment centre for amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS), an incurable muscle-weakening disease – making the respective minimum-required donation gets you either of the two limited-edition watches. Both watches features the brand’s signature fume dials in striking, deep green. One is a simple three-hand watch, while the other is equipped with a flying tourbillon containing an impressive double-hairspring. Both watches have discreet lettering at six o’clock in a nod to the cause Initial thoughts Watches created to benefit good causes are heartening, particularly ones like the new Pioneer pair, where the entirety of the donation goes to the medical programme. Already an appealing watch, the Pioneer features many quintessential Moser characteristics – namely the dial finish and in-house movements – and is enhanced by its charitable nature. The brand’s most affordable steel sports watch, the Pioneer Centre Second “Cure ALS” features an upgrade over the ordinary version in the form of an 18k solid-gold rotor that replaces the standard tungsten rotor. However, design wise it is a bit too close to a standard model – the green dial is similar to that in the regular production variant, which is available in a different, but similar, shade of gre...

HANDS-ON: The H. Moser x MB&F; Tourbillon is like a domed space station on an alien moon Time+Tide
H. Moser x MB&F; Tourbillon Dec 19, 2020

HANDS-ON: The H. Moser x MB&F; Tourbillon is like a domed space station on an alien moon

When is a wristwatch no longer a wristwatch? This is the question as you hold the H. Moser x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon because it feels like an otherworldly creation. Have MB&F; and H. Moser freed one of the alien pilots from Area 51 – and employed him (it?) in their design department? Is this … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The H. Moser x MB&F; Tourbillon is like a domed space station on an alien moon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Lord of the bling: 8 watches that prove diamonds can also be a man’s best friend Time+Tide
Dec 17, 2020

Lord of the bling: 8 watches that prove diamonds can also be a man’s best friend

Many guys dismiss the idea of wearing a diamond watch out of fear it’ll seem ludicrously over the top. Admittedly, countless celebrities rock blinged-out watches smothered with so many diamonds you can barely see the metal. But there are other, more subtle alternatives to the fully iced-out look you may want to explore. It is … ContinuedThe post Lord of the bling: 8 watches that prove diamonds can also be a man’s best friend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.