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5,488 articles · 178 videos found · page 181 of 189

Breitling (Re)Introduces the Chronomat with Rouleaux Bracelet SJX Watches
Breitling Re)Introduces Apr 16, 2020

Breitling (Re)Introduces the Chronomat with Rouleaux Bracelet

One of the most fashionable watches of the late 1980s and 1990s was the Breitling Chronomat with the distinctive Rouleaux bracelet, specifically the two-tone, steel-and-yellow-gold model with a dark blue dial. The watch of choice for assorted air force squadrons, the Chronomat was also spotted on major Hollywood stars of the era, most prominently Jerry Seinfeld and Bruce Willis. Breitling’s supercharged success after the Quartz Crisis – having been rescued by Swiss entrepreneur Ernest Schneider – was largely down to the Chronomat. Now the Chronomat on the Rouleaux bracelet is making its comeback, after having been discontinued several years ago. Abandoning the styling of recent, unsuccessful facelifts, the new Chronomat B01 42 returns with a tightly-executed design that incorporates several elements of the 1990s classic. A historic hit Launched to mark the 100th anniversary of Breitling in 1984, the Chronomat marked the brand’s return to mechanical watches. In 1979, the late Ernest Schneider took over an ailing Breitling, which until was then making mostly quartz watches with a military flavour. Having delivered the inaugural version of the Chronomat to members of Frecce Tricolori, the aerobatic team of the Italian air force, Schneider had a hit on his hands once the Chronomat was sold to the public. A page from the 1987 Breitling catalogue showing several versions of the Chronomat Though it had the same name as a vintage Breitling chronograph, the Chronomat l...

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Breaking News: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor Pull Out of Baselworld SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Chanel Chopard Apr 14, 2020

Breaking News: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor Pull Out of Baselworld

The unravelling of what was once the world’s largest watch and jewellery show has finally reached its unsurprising climax as the biggest exhibitors at Baselworld – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard, and Tudor – have just announced their withdrawal from the event. Instead the all-important brands – Rolex is the world’s largest luxury watch brand by turnover – will decamp to Geneva to show their new products at a new, as-yet unnamed watch fair that will merge with Watches & Wonders (W&W;). In the announcement signed by representatives of all five brands, the departing brands cited the “unilateral decisions taken by the management of Baselworld, including the postponement of the Fair in January 2021, as well as its inability to meet the expectations and needs of brands” as reasons for their withdrawal. With that, the centre of gravity for watch trade shows will shift definitely to Geneva, and marking the end of Baselworld as a crucial event on the industry’s calendar. Not only does it call into question the viability of Baselworld, it might even be a mortal blow for the watch fair’s parent company, MCH Group, which also owns Art Basel. Hello Geneva What started with the Swatch Group’s shock exit from Baselworld in 2018 accelerated this year, with the show’s exhibitor’s committee, led by a senior Rolex executive, politely demanding a refund of fees paid for the cancelled 2020 show. The negotiations between exhibitors and fair organisers have ob...

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John-Mikaël Flaux Introduces the Le Guépard Sonnerie-Automaton Clock SJX Watches
Apr 10, 2020

John-Mikaël Flaux Introduces the Le Guépard Sonnerie-Automaton Clock

A young French horologist who specialises in automaton clocks – his most recent work was a retro-automobile that tells time – John-Mikaël Flaux has just unveiled his most elaborate work to date, Le Guépard. Translating as “The Cheetah”, Le Guépard is an elegantly-conceived, hour-striking clock with its movement forming an automaton of a big cat. Made of brass and steel, Le Guépard tells the time on an open-worked dial on its right, but it is also a sonnerie en passant, chiming out the time as it passes. Mr Flaux, who attended the same watchmaking school as independent watchmakers Cyril Brivet-Naudot and Theo Auffret, describes Le Guépard as a “poetic take” on the hour-striking clock. At the top of every hour, the clock chimes the number of hours via a hammer striking the large bell on its rear. Triggered by a snail cam and front paw of the cheetah, the strike work propels the limbs of the cheetah, which moves in slow motion as the rack of the strike work “counts” the number of hours being struck. The clock can also strikes the hours on demand – a feature activated by pressing on the tail of the cheetah. Located behind the decorative panel are the hammer and bell that sound the hours Made up of 205 parts, most of the clock is produced by Mr Flaux using traditional methods, like turning wheels on a manual lathe. The movement is mounted on a steel platform, but sits against a background of an abstract starry night on the African plains. Executed in a...

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Hands-On: Zenith El Primero A384 Revival with “Ladder” Bracelet SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero A384 Revival Apr 8, 2020

Hands-On: Zenith El Primero A384 Revival with “Ladder” Bracelet

There are few brands that can make modern-day reissues of historical watches powered by the same movement as the vintage original. Zenith, as it happens, is easily able to, thanks to its long-lived El Primero. The chronograph movement celebrated its 50th anniversary last year with several commemorative A386 limited editions, including a one-off in platinum for charity, but most were in gold and thus pricey. On the other hand, the El Primero A384 Revival is a faithful remake – including a “ladder” bracelet – that’s part of the regular collection, and also affordable. Since 1969 While the A386 is the iconic El Primero chronograph – and today the most valuable – the A384 was introduced at the same time (along with the A385), making it part of the debut range of El Primero watches. One reason the A384 doesn’t quite have the stature of the round and relatively-ageless A386 is also one of its most distinctive qualities: a tonneau- or cushion-shaped case that instantly identifies it as a watch of the late 1960s and 1970s. The easily recognisable design has made the tonneau-shaped A384 a popular base for a variety of limited editions, including one based on a fictitious watch featured in the Japanese manga Lupin III. Romain Marietta, the brand’s chief of products, also indicated during a recent conversation that the A384 will continue to be the base for limited editions, while the A386 will not be reproduced again except in exceptional instances since it is syno...

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Business News: Baselworld Inches Towards Calamity [Updated] SJX Watches
Rolex Apr 7, 2020

Business News: Baselworld Inches Towards Calamity [Updated]

Writing in a manner graceful yet irate, the president of the exhibitors committee of Baselworld – mostly made up of brands that exhibit that the event – has penned a quietly scathing letter to the organisers of Baselworld. [The fair’s response to the letter can be found in the addendum at the end of the article.] The letter, which I received a copy of, expresses the exhibitors’ dissatisfaction at well, everything, from the new date for the event to the proposed refunds for the “postponed” fair, while asking for a refund of fees paid for the cancelled event. Significantly, the letter ends with: “we fear that this will be the end, pure and simple, of Baselworld…”. While on the surface this might seem to be a group of exhibitors pushing back, it is a more nuanced – and perhaps more uplifting – picture. The president of the exhibitors committee, Hubert J. du Plessix, has a day job: head of investments and logistics at Rolex, in addition to being the president of the watchmaker’s pension fund. If there was ever a sterling example of the philosophy “speak softly and carry a big stick” in watchmaking, this is it. Seen in that light, Mr du Plessix, and by extension his employer, are standing up for the little guy: defending the interests of exhibitors who can ill-afford Baselworld even in the best of times, in an attempt to help the wider watch industry that is now on the edge of the precipice. The central atrium of Messe Basel, the convention hall des...

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Glashütte Original Introduces the Sixties and Sixties Chronograph “Glacier Blue” SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces Apr 7, 2020

Glashütte Original Introduces the Sixties and Sixties Chronograph “Glacier Blue”

A yearly tradition starting two years ago, the Sixties annual edition is a limited-production run of Glashütte Original’s well-liked, retro Sixties. In contrast to the sedate, Teutonic colours of the regular models, the Sixties annual editions are characterised by dials in bold colours and elaborate patterns, all produced the traditional way at its sister company located just several hours away. The annual edition began in 2015 as an experimental collection of watches with dials in over-the-top colours, before becoming an annual edition, first with a green dial patterned after water droplets, followed by an orange version of the same motif last year. Now Glashütte Original has gone in the opposite direction with the Sixties and Sixties Chronograph featuring pale-blue, dégradé dials finished with a simple, radial brushing. Decidedly more restrained than the earlier editions, the new “glacier blue” dials are still nuanced and striking. Subtle blue As with all of the dials found on the Sixties annual editions, the new “glacier blue” dials are produced by the what was once the Th. Muller dial factory in Pforzheim, historically the heart of the German jewellery and clockmaking industry, and now owned by Glashütte Original’s parent company, Swatch Group. The blue dials are finished in a dégradé, or graduated, colour that darkens towards the edges – an effect that requires multiple steps to achieve. It starts with a dial blank made of German silver that is...

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Up Close: Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton SJX Watches
Longines Mar 10, 2020

Up Close: Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton

Even though Jaquet Droz is a part of Switzerland’s largest watchmaking conglomerate – its parent Swatch Group also owns more mainstream names like Omega and Longines – the brand has consistently demonstrated an independence of thought with its impressive range of automata wristwatches – the latest being the Magic Lotus Automaton. Combining artisanal decoration with miniature automata – complex mechanical devices that typically imitate humans or nature – these watches continue a lineage that began with the brand’s founder: Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721–1790). Jaquet-Droz built automata that were shockingly lifelike for the period, with his greatest invention being The Writer. A seated figure capable of writing a pre-programmed sentence up to 40 characters long, The Writer was such a feat that during the Spanish Inquisition, its maker was suspected of using witchcraft to create the uncanny contraption. Over two centuries later, Jaquet Droz has developed several modern-day interpretations of its allegedly supernatural devices, often wristwatches that combine an automaton with a minute repeater – and even in monumental pocket-watch format. The recent Magic Lotus Automaton, on the other hand, is much simpler, but one of the most unusual and intriguing. It is not a minute repeater, but manages to be brilliantly conceived and effective. Garden of wonders Despite not having a repeater, the Magic Lotus Automaton is still a mechanical bombshell – so it is massive,...

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New IWC Portugieser Chronographs Now With In-House Automatic Movements Quill & Pad
IWC Portugieser Chronographs Now Mar 6, 2020

New IWC Portugieser Chronographs Now With In-House Automatic Movements

One of IWC’s most emblematic timepieces, the Portugieser chronograph has been a cornerstone of the brand’s collection for many years. The Portugieser, which first appeared back in 1939, has not always been a bestseller. The truth is, IWC failed with three separate launches before the Portugieser finally became a success in the early 1990s. Sabine Zwettler shares a brief history of the Portugieser here and introduces the six new chronograph variations powered by an in-house movement.

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Rolex Submariner Alternatives WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Mar 4, 2020

Rolex Submariner Alternatives

The Rolex Submariner is considered a benchmark for diving watches. It was introduced in 1953 as the first divers’ watch that was waterproof to 100 metres. The Submariner is so popular that some brands have created watches of their own that look very similar. If you’re not wedded to the Submariner then give some thought to the following three alternative watches that are just as good as the Submariner. What’s more is that they don’t have the hefty price tag or lengthy waitlists making them more appealing. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight The Tudor Black Bay 58 was released in 2018 at Baselworld and celebrates Tudor’s very first divers watch that was introduced in 1958. Tudor has always been seen as the more affordable alternative to Rolex after all it is a sub-brand of Rolex. The Tudor Black Bay 58 is priced at $5000 AUD and is the least expensive of the three alternative models. What I Instantly loved about the Tudor Black bay 58 are it’s gold hour markers, tudors snow flake hands and minute track of the black and steel bezel. These gold finishing touches are classy and stand out well against the black dial making it easier to tell the time. The black bay 58 has lume on all 12 hour makers, the snowflake hands and the 12 hour pip on the bezel. I’d say the lume on this watch is a strong point as it really pops.  It has a 39mm steel case with a polished and satin finish which is similar to the size of the Submariner’s 40mm case. It’s got a unidirectional rotatab...

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Hands-On: De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu Like Mar 3, 2020

Hands-On: De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu

Like the bizarre-looking, ultra-deep sea creatures that produce bioluminescent light, De Bethune’s DB28GS Grand Bleu boasts its very own, self-contained light source – hardly surprising given what De Bethune is all about. Since its inception in 2002, De Bethune has expanded its aesthetic and technical language, going from relatively classical, Breguet-inspired watches to timepieces that are at the cutting edge of modern horology. Most of its contemporary watches feature far-flung, otherworldly designs, a house style that no doubt made it challenging to ensure the Grand Bleu conforms to the ISO 6425 dive-watch specification. The resulting Grand Bleu is perhaps one of the most extravagant and extraordinary dive watches ever – this video shows the illumination in action. Though De Bethune dabbled in oversized sports watches well over a decade ago, starting with the DB24 Super Sport of 2007, the Grand Bleu is evolved from the more recent DB28GS launched in 2015. While the DB28GS was already a hardcore sports watch with a high-tech movement, the Grand Bleu takes it further -or mor eacccurately, deeper. It combines a brand-new case with a new movement equipped with a mechanical dynamo that powers a set of tiny LED lamps. The more sedate DB28 Grand Sport A new case The Grand Bleu is a large 44 mm, and rated to 100 m. At 12.8 mm high, it is thicker than most De Bethune watches but still slim for a dive watch. But the highlight of the case are the spring-loaded, open-wor...

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Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed] SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Gerald Genta Ulysse Nardin Mar 3, 2020

Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed]

Following the cancellation of both the year’s biggest watch fairs – Baselworld and Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG) – due to the COVID-19 coronavirus, a consortium of watch brands have come together to show their wares come April. The event, dubbed Geneva Watch Days, was the brainchild of Bulgari and its chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin – one of the first brands to pull out of Baselworld – and conceived with European press and retailers in mind. [Update March 24, 2020: GWD will now take place August 26-29, 2020 instead.] WWG to GWD Taking place when WWG was due to happen, April 26 to 29, Geneva Watch Days now has a line-up of brands big and small: Girard-Perregaux, Gerald Genta, Ulysse Nardin, Breitling, MB&F;, De Bethune and Urwerk. A handful more might sign on, including H. Moser & Cie. and Chopard. However, at present, none of the brands belonging to the major watchmaking conglomerates, Richemont or Swatch Group, or either of the Geneva giants, namely Rolex and Patek Philippe, has announced their participation – and are unlikely to due to the complexities of the industry. Crucially, Geneva Watch Days is not a fair per se, rather it is a series of events organised by brands in separate venues, including boutiques and hotels, but happening during the same period. Because the individual events during Geneva Watch Days are small-scale and discrete, none of them will run counter to the Swiss government’s temporary ban on events with over 1,000 people. ...

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Tudor Introduces the Pelagos “Qatar Watch Club” SJX Watches
Chopard L.U.C GMT Mar 2, 2020

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos “Qatar Watch Club”

Founded two years ago, the Qatar Watch Club (QWC) is a community of internet-savvy watch enthusiasts in the wealthy Arab nation. The club recently got together with Tudor and local watch retailer Fifty One East to create the Pelagos “Qatar Watch Club”, a limited edition of the brand’s top-spec dive watch. The second QWC edition after last year’s Chopard L.U.C GMT, the Pelagos has “Qatar” in Arabic, or “قطر‎”, on the dial at six, replacing the five lines of text on the standard model, giving it a much cleaner look. The other point of distinction is the club logo engraved on the case back. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard model, which means a titanium case rated to 500 m and a scratch-resistant, blue-ceramic bezel insert. And the watch is equipped with the MT5612 movement. A proprietary calibre produced by Kenissi, a joint venture Tudor shares with Chanel, the calibre has a 70-hour power reserve, silicon hairspring, and is an all-round strong performer, particularly at this price point. The watch is delivered in a box bearing the QWC logo, as well as an additional blue rubber strap. Only 50 were produced – the club has 50 members – and at press time all have been spoken for. QWC members at last year’s launch event for the Chopard L.U.C GMT QWC edition. Photo – QWC Key facts Tudor Pelagos Qatar Watch Club Special Edition Ref. M25600TB-0001 Diameter: 42 mm Thickness: 14.3 mm Material: Titanium Water resistance: 500 m Movement:...

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Hands-On: Cartier Privé Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Tonneau Skeleton Dual Mar 1, 2020

Hands-On: Cartier Privé Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time

Launched last year alongside the time-only Tonneau, the Privé Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time is classical Cartier in style and execution. The case is a century-old Cartier design that has not aged, while the movement is interesting in aesthetics and mechanics. In fact, the 9919 MC inside is surprisingly novel – it’s a skeleton, form, and curved movement with two time zones. The Tonneau Skeleton is also being produced in a modest limited edition, which means it will remain unusual. But it is hindered by a high price tag. Double fuseau The Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time is modelled on the Tonneau double fuseau (French for “double time zone”) that was produced in a variety of versions, including a 1999 Macau handover commemorative edition, from the 1990s until the mid 2000s. A Cartier Collection Privee Cartier Paris (CPCP) Tonneau dual time zone in white gold, c. 1998. Photo – Sotheby’s Cartier was particularly fond of the twin time zone complication during the period, and the double fuseau was also produced in many Tank case styles, ranging from the Tank Cintree to the Tank Louis Cartier. Despite the diversity, all the double time zone watches shared a common feature – they were powered by two separate small movements – either mechanical or quartz, depending on the model – essentially two tiny watches combined into an extra-large case. Though mechanically unsophisticated, the two-in-one construction made each time zone entirely independent, down to the minute....

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Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1 “Oeuvre d’Or” SJX Watches
Chopard Feb 26, 2020

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1 “Oeuvre d’Or”

Backed by Chopard and taking the name of a noted 18th century French watchmaker, Ferdinand Berthoud made its debut in 2015 with the Chronomètre FB 1. Though unusual in style with an octagonal case, the FB 1 boasts an impressively constructed movement developed and manufactured by the same facility responsible for Chopard’s top-of-the-line L.U.C calibres; the project was the brainchild of Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. At its core the FB 1 is an elaborate – and delightfully anachronistic – tribute to 18th century marine chronometers inside and out. The subject of four patents, the unusual calibre is very much antiquarian horology; it is constructed with pillar-style architecture and contains a chain-and-fusée, feeler-and-cone power reserve mechanism, and a large tourbillon with central seconds. Since the debut of the FB 1, there have been as many as ten subsequent variations – which is probably too many but it doesn’t diminish from the intrinsic, technical qualities of the watch – with one of the most recent being the Chronomètre FB 1 “Oeuvre d’Or” launched last year. Mechanically identical to the other iterations, the Oeuvre d’Or is distinguished by extra decoration, namely an engraved and grained gold dial as well as gold movement bridges engraved with a repeating pyramid motif. The Oeuvre d’Or FB 1.1-2 in white gold A tribute to marine chronometry Modern day Berthoud watches are inspired by the works of its 18th century namesak...

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We asked you if the Zenith Defy was underrated, and this is what you said Time+Tide
Zenith Defy was underrated Feb 24, 2020

We asked you if the Zenith Defy was underrated, and this is what you said

A few days ago, we uploaded a photo of the Zenith Defy Classic Ref.95.9000.670/51.R790 and asked our 120,000 followers this question: “Is the Zenith Classic underrated?” The response was resoundingly confirmative, with many people opining that not only the Defy Classic but the Defy range in general was, more often than not, overlooked and it shouldn’t … ContinuedThe post We asked you if the Zenith Defy was underrated, and this is what you said appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Ep. #163: Talking Timex… Our New Darling? Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex Our New Darling? Feb 17, 2020

Ep. #163: Talking Timex… Our New Darling?

Timex has been on a roll since the release of the Marlin a little while back. Since then, the watch world has gone completely nuts over reissues like the Q and vintage-inspired models like the recent M79. Join Mike and Kaz as they run through Timex's greatest hits, analyze the brand's overall strategy, and consider adding Timex models to their own personal collections.

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Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Égérie Ladies’ Collection SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Feb 17, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Égérie Ladies’ Collection

Reviving a name once used for a line of tonneau-shaped women’s watches, Vacheron Constantin has just unveiled the Égérie, now a round watch with an unusually positioned crown. Translating as “muse”, Égérie is a slightly larger and more casual automatic watch for ladies, setting it apart from Vacheron Constantin’s current offerings for ladies, which are mostly downsized or quartz versions of men’s watches, as well as pricey, high-jewellery timepieces. That also sets it apart from its namesake, introduced in 2003 with a tonneau case, which lasted several years in the catalogue but never quite took off. Inspired by haute couture according to Vacheron Constantin, the new Égérie line is centred on two models, with either a moon phase or date. Each is offered in pink gold or steel, as well as a fully diamond-set version in white gold, for a total of five models. Égérie Self-Winding (top row), and Égérie Moonphase All models share a fully polished case with a diamond-set bezel, with a silver opaline dial featuring an offset sub-dial at two o’clock that sits just beside the crown, topped with a moonstone cabochon. The dials are decorated with a pleated, radial guilloche done the traditional way, with a hand-operated rose engine. The engine-turning is intersected up by a chapter ring with spherical markings for the minutes and applied gold hour numerals. Specially designed for the collection, the numerals are a modern take on traditional Breguet numerals...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre And The Impact Of Images In Artful New Exhibition At Paris’ Jeu De Paume: ‘The Supermarket Of Images’ Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 16, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre And The Impact Of Images In Artful New Exhibition At Paris’ Jeu De Paume: ‘The Supermarket Of Images’

Jaeger-LeCoultre supports ‘The Supermarket Of Images,’ the latest exhibition at the Jeu de Paume arts center in Paris, which exhibits and promotes all forms of mechanical and electronic imagery. The exhibition’s central premise is that our lives are increasingly saturated with images. The impact of this is the story that this exhibition tells. 

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Crime or Sublime: Pocket watches in 2020 Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2020

Crime or Sublime: Pocket watches in 2020

The gauntlet has well and truly been thrown down on the polished concrete floors of Time+Tide’s headquarters in this week’s office row, as a truculent James Robinson asseverated that pocket watches in 2020 are about as useful as a solar powered watch in a sensory deprivation tank … that is to say, completely pointless. Deputy … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Pocket watches in 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watch & Act! World Watch Auction Wrap Party to be held in Melbourne, limited tickets and a T-shirt now available here Time+Tide
Feb 11, 2020

Watch & Act! World Watch Auction Wrap Party to be held in Melbourne, limited tickets and a T-shirt now available here

Life moves pretty fast, but before it can get away from us, and the stunning generosity shown towards Australia is forgotten – when one crisis is replaced by the inevitable next one, which is already sadly happening – we want to pause and celebrate the moment. With a party. Buy tickets here. Because just one … ContinuedThe post Watch & Act! World Watch Auction Wrap Party to be held in Melbourne, limited tickets and a T-shirt now available here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Voutilainen Vingt-8 ‘Blue Pearl’ 44 mm SJX Watches
Voutilainen Feb 11, 2020

Up Close: Voutilainen Vingt-8 ‘Blue Pearl’ 44 mm

The highly-regarded Voutilainen Vingt-8 has a 39 mm case as standard, along with a dazzling variety of dials and additional complications, from a retrograde date to an inverted movement. But one of the more interesting variants is the simple-but-enormous oversized Vingt-8. Originally introduced in 2017, the extra-large, 44 mm Vingt-8 is available as a custom order, with the most recent example being the Vingt-8 ‘Blue Pearl’, one of the few Voutilainen watches with a mother-of-pearl dial. The 44 mm case… With an enlarged movement to fit The oversized Vingt-8 has been produced in a range of case metals, including steel, but this example has a platinum case, which means an impressive heft, the kind of weight you rarely find on highly-finished, classical wristwatches. But it also means the watch feels heavy on the wrist, which can be good or bad depending on taste. Importantly – and this is probably the most important design change – the lug width has been widened to 22 mm, compared to just 20 mm on the very first oversized watch. This gives the watch ideal proportions – the new case design needs nothing more. Visually the watch is light and informal. The mother of pearl is a pale, even blue that is almost luminous and reveals nuances up close. It gives the watch a cool colour palette that’s more restrained than the average Voutilainen, which tends to have an elaborately decorated dial. Pearl’s progress The first watch with such a dial was the 2-Eight, the lad...

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Swatch Introduces the James Bond 007 Collection SJX Watches
Swatch Feb 7, 2020

Swatch Introduces the James Bond 007 Collection

Ahead of the upcoming James Bond film No Time to Die, Swatch has unveiled the Swatch X 007 capsule collection. Each of the watches in the line-up are inspired by the elaborate title credits and artwork that have become a signature of the James Bond film franchise. The collection takes inspiration from films across the decades, ranging from classics like Dr No, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Moonraker, and Licence to Kill, to recent instalments like The World is Not Enough and Casino Royale. Swatch is no stranger to the British super spy, having launched several 007 collections over the years, some of which have gone on to collectors’ items. Amongst the most successful editions is the James Bond 40th anniversary set of watches presented in a briefcase of 2002, the 22-piece collection of watches modelled on notable Bond villains of 2008. The 007 Villains collection (left), and the anniversary briefcase. Photo – Sotheby’s From Connery to Craig Each packaged in a box resembling a VHS cassette tape – something consumers below a certain age will probably not recognise – the watches in the Swatch X 007 collection are offered in two sizes, depending on the model. The watches inspired by Licence to Kill and Casino Royale are in the original, 34 mm “Gent” case, while the Moonraker, Dr No, The World is Not Enough, and On Her Majesty’s Secret Service editions are a more modern 41 mm and presented in the “New Gent” case style. Licence to Kill and Cas...

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G-Shock Introduces the 6900-Series with Metal Bezel SJX Watches
Casio Feb 7, 2020

G-Shock Introduces the 6900-Series with Metal Bezel

While the quintessential G-Shock is arguably the original, oblong DW-5000 in black plastic, the oversized DW-6900 is almost as famous. Introduced in 1995, its bulbous case was strikingly large and the watch became a fashion accessory of sorts over the next two decades, especially with the collaborations done with streetwear labels like Mastermind and celebrities like rapper Eminem. So as the DW-6900 reaches its 25th year, Casio is marking the anniversary with a special edition: the G-Shock GM-6900 with metal bezel. Identical in shape and function to the original, the GM-6900 is distinguished by its stamped steel bezel, essentially a metal outer case goes over the inner resin case. The bezel is formed into shape via multiple stamping processes, each further refining the form and curve of the bezel. It’s available in a natural steel finish, black-coating with a glossy finish and red accents, or polished gold plating. In terms of tech, the GM-6900 is basic. The electronic module inside is battery operated and has all of the usual functions of a G-Shock, including stopwatch, countdown timer, and multiple time zones. It is delivered on a black resin strap with a buckle finished to match the steel bezel. The original DW-6900 Key facts and price G-Shock GM-6900 G-Shock GM-6900B (black bezel) G-Shock GM-6900G (gold bezel) Diameter: 49.7 mm Height: 18.6 mm Material: Resin with steel bezel Water resistance: 200 m Movement: Model 3230 Functions: Digital, multifunction Windi...

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Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel Feb 4, 2020

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel

With the Freak being the undisputed flagship complication of Ulysse Nardin – as well as a historically important watch – many of the brand’s other technical accomplishments often go under the radar. One intriguing offering that hasn’t gotten much attention: the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Despite the somewhat dull name, the Tourbillon Free Wheel is a compelling reinterpretation of a mystery clock – where the mechanics are artfully hidden and exposed for visual effect – that is both fascinating and exotic. The Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel with an aventurine dial While the base model of the Executive collection features a largely conventional, open-worked movement, the Tourbillon Free Wheel takes things a step further by elevating the crucial parts of the movement like the barrel, tourbillon regulator, and gear train for the power reserve. In fact, most of the components are “floating” – the movement boasts a flying tourbillon, a “flying” gear train and power reserve indicator, as well as a “floating” barrel. At the same time, the construction is inverted, with parts that are usually hidden sitting exposed, and vice versa. As a result, the tourbillon and power reserve display appear to operate in isolation, with no obvious connection to the rest of the movement. Floating and flying minimalism While much of the gearing is hidden underneath the dial – which doubles up as the base plate – most of the moving parts are “floating” –...

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